©2007 thomson delmar learning. all rights reserved cosmetology: chemical hair relaxing milady...

©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

Cosmetology:Chemical Hair Relaxing

Milady StandardCosmetology

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“We all live in suspense from day to day, from hour to hour; in other words, we are the hero of our own story”

Mary McCarthy


Objectives• Understand the procedure for chemical

hair relaxing• Understand the difference between

hydroxide and thio relaxers• Understand the difference between

hydroxide and thio neutralizers• Explain the basic procedure for a curl

reforming service


Chemical Hair Relaxers• Ammonium thioglycolate• Sodium hydroxide


Characteristics• Highly alkaline• Can melt or dissolve hair


Extremely Curly Hair• Exists in all races• Grows in long twisted spirals or coils• Cross-sections are elliptical and vary in

shape and thickness• Irregular in strand diameter• Weakest sections located at twists


Thio Relaxers• Main ingredient is ammonium

thioglycolate or ATG (higher concentration than in permanent wave solution)

• pH above 10• Higher viscosity than perm solution• Break disulfide bonds and soften hair


Thio Neutralization• Oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide)• Rebuilds disulfide bonds


Hydroxide Relaxers• Active ingredient = hydroxide ion• Types• Strong alkalis

– Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide

• Incompatible with thio relaxers• pH of 13.0 or higher• Lanthionization


Hydroxide Neutralization• Does not involve oxidation• Alkaline residues are deactivated by:

– Acid-balanced shampoo– Normalizing lotion


Metal Hydroxide Relaxers• Ionic compounds formed by metal:

– Sodium (Na), potassium (K), lithium (Li), which are combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H)

• Include sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide (LiOH)


• Sodium hydroxide commonly called lye relaxers

• Lithium and potassium hydroxide called “no mix – no lye” relaxers

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers


Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers• Require two components that must be

mixed• Straighten hair completely• Less scalp irritation than other

hydroxide relaxers• Recommended for sensitive scalps• Do not reduce hair damage


Low pH Relaxers• Sulfites and bisulfites• Most common: ammonium sulfite and

ammonium bisulfite• Characteristics

– Mild alternative relaxers– Compatible with thio relaxers– Do not straighten extremely curly hair


Thermal Ionic Reconstructors• Thio relaxer• Use double hot blow-dry• Use double hot press with flat irons


Selecting the Correct Relaxer


Base and No-Base Relaxers• Base relaxer

– Requires application of base cream– Cream protects skin and scalp

• No-base relaxer– Protective base not required– Base cream melts at body temperature– Protective cream may be applied around ears and

hairline


Relaxer Strengths• Mild• Regular• Super


General Procedures• Virgin relaxer

– Applied ¼” to 2” from scalp to porous ends– Apply to scalp hair or ends for last few minutes

• Relaxer retouch– Applied ¼” to ½” from scalp and includes new

growth only; apply to scalp for last few minutes

• Normalizing solution


Periodic Strand Testing• Determine when hair is sufficiently

relaxed• Stretch strands• Smooth and press strand to scalp

using back of comb or finger• If strand remains smooth, it’s relaxed• If curl returns, continue processing


Strand Test Results


Hydroxide Relaxer Materials• Hydroxide relaxer• Hydroxide neutralizer• Protective base cream• Acid-balanced shampoo• Conditioner• Bowl and brush

• Shampoo cape• Towels• Plastic clips• Styling comb• Plastic tail comb• Spray bottle• Disposable gloves• Timer


Preparation• Wash hands• Do hair and scalp analysis• Conduct client consultation• Change into gown, remove

jewelry• Drape client and shampoo


Procedure• Section and clip hair• Protect client• Begin application


• Work down section toward hairline• Continue application• Smooth with back of comb• Process and do strand test

Procedure


• Work relaxer to scalp• Rinse thoroughly

Procedure


Neutralization Procedure• Optional: Apply normalizing lotion• Shampoo 3 times• Rinse thoroughly and condition• Style as desired


Cleanup and Sanitation• Discard disposable supplies• Disinfect and store implements• Sanitize workstation• Wash hands• Complete client record


Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch• Work on dry hair• Protect hands• Apply relaxer• Continue application


• Continue application; finish most resistant sections

• Smooth sections• Process and do strand test• Work relaxer to scalp

Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch


• Work relaxer to ends

• Rinse thoroughly• Neutralize• Standard cleanup

Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch


Thio Relaxer Procedure• Procedure is exactly the same as for

virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer


Thio Neutralization• Blot excess water• Optional: Apply pre-neutralizing

conditioner and rinse• Rinse, condition, and style


Thio Relaxer Retouch• Follow preparation and application

procedure for hydroxide retouch• Follow the virgin thio relaxer

neutralizing and cleanup procedures


Soft Curl Perm Materials• Thio cream relaxer• Thio curl booster• Preneutralizing conditioner• Thio neutralizer• Protective base• Acid-balanced shampoo• Conditioner• Bowls• Applicator brush

• Applicator bottles• Shampoo cape• Neutralizing bib• Disposable gloves• Cotton coil or rope• Towels and clips• Combs and rods• End papers• Spray bottle• Timer


Preparation• Wash hands• Perform client consultation• Have client change into gown and

remove eyeglasses and jewelry• Gently shampoo


Soft Curl Perm Procedure• Follow virgin hydroxide relaxer

procedure• Rinse and section• Roll hair• Continue wrapping


• Continue wrapping• Place cotton• Apply plastic cap• Check cotton and towels• Process

Soft Curl Perm Procedure


• Check curl • Rinse and towel-dry hair• Neutralize• Distribute remaining

neutralizer• Style as desired

Soft Curl Perm Procedure


Safety Precautions• Do thorough hair analysis and consultation• Examine scalp for abrasions• Keep accurate and detailed records• Obtain release statement signature• Do not apply hydroxide over thio• Do not apply thio over hydroxide• Do not relax over metallic dyed hair


• Do not relax overly damaged hair• Do not shampoo before applying hydroxide

relaxer• Apply hydroxide relaxer on dry hair• Apply protective base• Wear gloves• Protect client’s eyes; flush immediately• Do not allow relaxer to contact ears, scalp,

or skin

Safety Precautions


• Perform periodic strand tests• Avoid scratching scalp• Do not overlap relaxer• Do not use strong relaxer on fine or

damaged hair• Do not remove more than 80% of curl• Thoroughly rinse

Safety Precautions


• Use normalizing lotion• Use normalizing shampoo• Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb• Do not use hot irons• Practice caution at all times

Safety Precautions


Summary and Review• What is lanthionization?


Summary and Review• What is the major difference between

thio and hydroxide relaxers?• What is the difference between thio

and hydroxide neutralizers?


• Explain the procedure for a soft curl permanent

Summary and Review


• List at least 10 safety precautions for permanent waving, soft curl permanents, and chemical hair relaxers

Summary and Review


Congratulations!

You’ve just completedone unit of study toward

program completion!

©2007 thomson delmar learning. all rights reserved cosmetology: chemical hair relaxing milady...

Documents

shampoo slide

application slide

curly hair slide

lithium hydroxide lioh

hair damage slide

dissolve hair slide

processing slide

hairline slide