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1998-2002 Suzuki KatanaFender Eliminator

The following are instructions and illustrations onthe installation of the custom fender elimination.

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Begin by removing seat, both rear fairings, and tail light assembly. Removeany existing turnsignals and get everything down to the bare bones.

Now it’s time to start cutting and you have a couple of choices here. Youcan either use a dremel tool if you have one, or get a good sharp utility knifealong with either a torch or candle (to heat up the blade and help get throughthe plastic). I have noted some reference points to help guide you on whereto cut, and what should be left when you’re done. It will help you tooccasionally put the fairing pieces back on to check your progress.

This is what it will look likeonce you’re done cutting.Note the clean straight linealong the bottom of thefender. This will go inconjunction with you rearfairings, less about 3/16 ofan inch, as you will see.

This is what it will look likeonce you’re done cutting.Note the clean straight linealong the bottom of thefender. This will go inconjunction with you rearfairings, less about 3/16 ofan inch, as you will see.

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These two tabs that you will createduring the cutting process are the onlypart of the fender that will extendbelow the rear fairings. Note that theyhave been squared off for a cleanlook.

These two tabs that you will createduring the cutting process are the onlypart of the fender that will extendbelow the rear fairings. Note that theyhave been squared off for a cleanlook.

Some reference points to help you determine whereto cut the fender. Again, it will help to occasionallyput the fairings back on to check your progress.The left and right arrows show that the cut is just atthe bottome of the wire channels.

Some reference points to help you determine whereto cut the fender. Again, it will help to occasionallyput the fairings back on to check your progress.The left and right arrows show that the cut is just atthe bottome of the wire channels.

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You will remove this smallsection of fender to continuethe line.

You will remove this smallsection of fender to continuethe line.

Important!

You need to cut the fender above the tab at thispoint. It is about a quarter inch, but this will alsohelp you determine if you have removed enough(be sure not to remove too much). The assemblywill rest in the two points listed above. When it fitscomfortable as noted, you have removed enough.

Important!

You need to cut the fender above the tab at thispoint. It is about a quarter inch, but this will alsohelp you determine if you have removed enough(be sure not to remove too much). The assemblywill rest in the two points listed above. When it fitscomfortable as noted, you have removed enough.

The glass surface of theassembly will rest here.

The glass surface of theassembly will rest here.

The bracket surface of theassembly will rest here onthe tab.

The bracket surface of theassembly will rest here onthe tab.

Note: Take your time cutting andsquaring off these tabs. It will makethings go smoother and keep thingslooking a lot cleaner.

Note: Take your time cutting andsquaring off these tabs. It will makethings go smoother and keep thingslooking a lot cleaner.

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An example of placing thefairing back on the bike tocheck your progress. Notethe space between wherethe fender stops and wherethe fairing is. There is abouta 3/16” gap which willaccommodate the lense.

An example of placing thefairing back on the bike tocheck your progress. Notethe space between wherethe fender stops and wherethe fairing is. There is abouta 3/16” gap which willaccommodate the lense.

Again, the tab is the onlypart of the fender thatextends down past thefairing.

Again, the tab is the onlypart of the fender thatextends down past thefairing.

Another shot of the gap.Another shot of the gap.

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An overview of the fenderonce cutting is complete.Again, note the staight linewhich goes along with thefairings.

An overview of the fenderonce cutting is complete.Again, note the staight linewhich goes along with thefairings.

How are you doing so far? If you’ve made it here thenyou’re in the home stretch. The next step is to install thestock license plate light into the fender so that you cansatisfy those darn local laws. You will need a 9/16” drillbit, but a 1/2” will do if you don’t have that. You will bedrilling a whole in the location noted on the next page. Ifyou have to drill with a 1/2” bit, you will need to ream outthe whole slightly to accommodate the stock light socket.Once done, the light fixture will be pushed in from the topside and will fit snuggly into the hole. You can use yourstock clear light bulb, or get a colored one from your localauto parts store. The nice thing is that if you choose to usea colored bulb and have to change it out for any reason, itwill be easy to do so with no tools.

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See that outline of a circle there…that’s your target, drill thatpuppy out. Again, don’t forget to ream it out if you have to usea 1/2 “ bit. The light fixture should fit snug, but not too tight oryou won’t be able to get the bulb in.

See that outline of a circle there…that’s your target, drill thatpuppy out. Again, don’t forget to ream it out if you have to usea 1/2 “ bit. The light fixture should fit snug, but not too tight oryou won’t be able to get the bulb in.

Okay, demolition is now complete. From this point on it’s allassembly. The following is the assembly process. Be sure tofollow it closely so you won’t have any problems.

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You need to do some pre-assembly of the turn signals and bracket beforeyou mount it. This installation is a tight fit, but that’s one of the reasonsthat it looks so clean. First, wire up your signals so that you have about1 1/2 ft of wire on each one. I recommend that you wrap the last fewinches of wire to protect from the elements, as well as hide them. Next,run the wires through the bracket holes and then through the nuts (Letthem dangle as shown below). Then run the wires up the chase into thetrunk space of the bike. Leave yourself about 6 inches or so of slack tocomplete the assembly. You’ll pull up the slack from the trunk later.**Note: If you are using thicker wire, you may need to drill out thechase to accommodate all four wires. As you can see, I had to run my4th wire a different route.

First few inches of wirewrapped in electrical tape.

First few inches of wirewrapped in electrical tape.

Chase is a bit too small formy needs.

Chase is a bit too small formy needs.

My 4th wire.My 4th wire.

Nuts for the signalsNuts for the signals

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In this area next to the wire chase, you will install the foam tape which will help seal the unitfrom the elements. This will help you keep the dirt from getting to the inside of the lense,which would cause you to have to disassemble everything to clean. You will place 3 layers ofthis tape here, pealing off the protective tape after each layer.

In this area next to the wire chase, you will install the foam tape which will help seal the unitfrom the elements. This will help you keep the dirt from getting to the inside of the lense,which would cause you to have to disassemble everything to clean. You will place 3 layers ofthis tape here, pealing off the protective tape after each layer.

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Time for some reflection. You’re going take the chrome tape andplace it in the areas from (and including) the foam tape back. Justtake your time, cut the tape and place it in there. Yours’ will differslightly from mine if you are using the stock light, but basically, youwant to cover all of the plastic surfaces so the it will reflect the lightdown. As you can see below, you need to also wrap the tape overthe side and bottom of the foam tape, this will help with the look.Do not compress the foam tape when you do this.

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Time to put it all together. First put the right fairing back on the bike.Note that the fairing rests on top of the tab (as it did originally). Make surethe clip/nut is still on the fairing.

Next, slip the assembly into its location placing the glass portion insidethe fairing, while letting the bracket rest on the bottom of the tab.

Glass/Lexan portion slips inand above the lip of thefairing.

Glass/Lexan portion slips inand above the lip of thefairing.

Bracket rests on the bottomof the tab.

Bracket rests on the bottomof the tab.

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Now, secure the right side fairing with the original screw. As you cansee, it’s a tight fit (which is why your turn signals aren’t mounted yet. Itmay be a little tricky to get the screw started, but just move the assembly,or fairing slightly until you get it. Tighten down, but not fully at thispoint.

Screw…Tight Fit!Screw…Tight Fit!

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Now time for the left side fairing. Install the fairing just like the right sideis installed paying careful attention to make sure everything lines up. Seenotes below. **Warning, watch yourself here or you may end upscratching some of your fairing where they clip together on the top aboveyour tail light.

Bracket goes below the tab.Bracket goes below the tab.

Clip/Nut still on the fairing.Clip/Nut still on the fairing.

Lense slips inside lip of rearfairing.

Lense slips inside lip of rearfairing.

Once you get the left side fairing on, insert the other screw through thebracket and secure it. You should have a slight bit of play in the assemblysince you left the two screws loose in case you have to make anyadjustment, which you shouldn’t. If everything looks okay, tighten themdown.

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Okay, here we are…all back together except the signals and plate. Takeeach signal and put it through the hole while holding the nut against thebracket. Again, it’s a tight fit so you have to kind of work the light and thenut together to get it threaded through and tightened down.

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Once you have the lights tightened down, work the slack in the wireback up through the chase to clean it up.

That’s it!!! Just screw on you plate and you’re good to go!

Couple of finished photos on the next page.

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