1962-65 Dual Exhaust ConsiderationsPlus a Review of Major Exhaust Components by Bob Mannel

Various parts of the 1962-65 Fairlane have been covered in ear-lier editions of Fairlaner magazine. These articles are available for

download from the club website in the Technical Articles section of the Archives. Previously covered were rear brake hose rout-

Year Side Type Engine Application Size Inlet/Y- or H-pipe Extension Muffl er Resonator Notes

62 R.H. Single

170M/T

1¾"C2OZ-5246-C, H C2OZ-5A212-A C2OZ-5230-B, G

A/T C2OZ-5246-B, G C2OZ-5A212-A C2OZ-5230-B, G

221, 260

221 M/T 1¾" C2OZ-5246-A, E, J C2OZ-5A212-AC2OZ-5230-A, BC2OZ-5230-G

1

A/T, 260 M/T 2" C2OZ-5246-D, F C2OZ-5A212-B, CC2OZ-5230-C, EC2OZ-5230-F, H

63

R.H.

Single

170, 200

(exc 71) M/T

1¾"

C3OZ-5246-D C3OZ-5A212-C C3OZ-5230-A, H

(exc 71) A/T C3OZ-5246-E C3OZ-5A212-C C3OZ-5230-A, H

L.H.

(71) M/T C3OZ-5246-A, F C3OZ-5A212-A, D C3OZ-5230-E, J

(71) A/TH/D M/T

C3OZ-5246-B, G C3OZ-5A212-D C3OZ-5230-E, J 2

R.H.221, 260

(exc 71)2"

C3OZ-5246-H C3OZ-5A212-EC3OZ-5230-B, CC3OZ-5230-DC3YY-5230-A, B

L.H. (71) C3OZ-5246-C, J, K C3OZ-5A212-B, F C3OZ-5230-F, G

R.H. 289 HiPo 2½" C3OZ-5246-L C3OZ-5A212-G C3OZ-5230-M 3

64

R.H.

Single

170, 200

(exc 71) M/T

1¾"

C4OZ-5246-A C4OZ-5A212-A C4OZ-5230-B

(exc 71) A/T C4OZ-5246-B C4OZ-5A212-A C4OZ-5230-B

L.H.

(71) M/T C4OZ-5246-C C4OZ-5A212-B C4OZ-5230-D

(71) A/TH/D M/T

C4OZ-5246-D C4OZ-5A212-B C4OZ-5230-D 2

R.H.260, 289

(exc 71)2"

C4OZ-5246-E C4OZ-5A212-C C4OZ-5230-C

L.H. (71) C4OZ-5246-F C4OZ-5A212-D C4OZ-5230-A

R.H. Single 289 HiPo bef 4-13-64 2½" C4OZ-5246-G C4OZ-5A212-E C4OZ-5230-E 3

R.H.Dual 289 HiPo fm 4-13-64 2" C4OZ-5246-H

C4OZ-5230-F4

L.H. C4OZ-5230-G

65

R.H.

Single

200

(exc 71) M/T

1¾"

C4OZ-5246-A C5OZ-5A212-A C4OZ-5230-B

(exc 71) A/T C4OZ-5246-B C5OZ-5A212-A C4OZ-5230-B

L.H.

(71) M/T C4OZ-5246-C C4OZ-5A212-B C5OZ-5230-A

(71) A/TH/D M/T

C4OZ-5246-D C4OZ-5A212-B C5OZ-5230-A 2

R.H. 289-2V (exc 71)2"

C5OZ-5246-A C4OZ-5A212-C C4OZ-5230-C

L.H. 289-2V/4V (71) C5OZ-5246-C C4OZ-5A212-D C5OZ-5230-B

R.H.Dual 289-4V (exc 71) 2" C5OZ-5246-D

C5OZ-5230-D C5OZ-5A289-A5

L.H. C5OZ-5230-C C5OZ-5A289-A

R.H.Dual 289 HiPo 2" C5OZ-5246-B

C4OZ-5230-F4

L.H. C4OZ-5230-G

Note 1 - This was the only V8 exhaust system that used 1¾" pipes.Note 2 - H/D M/T was a 9½" heavy-duty clutch option which

substituted the HEF 3.03 3-speed for the 2.77 3-speed.Note 3 - Y-pipe used 2" pipes joining into a 3" collector, then

narrowing to 2½".

Note 4 - Arvinode system. Muffl er assemblies included an inlet pipe, in-line muffl er, extension pipe, resonator, and outlet as one welded assembly.

Note 5 - Muffl er assemblies included a long inlet, oval muffl er, and long extension as a welded assembly.

Key: 71 - station wagon M/T - manual transmission A/T - automatic transmission H/D - heavy duty bef - before fm - from

May-June 2011 j 10

ing and fi ttings for sedans, hardtops with single or dual exhaust, and those for station wagons (September-October 1996, pages 12-13 and September-October 2005, page 11); exhaust systems in general (July-August 2008, pages 12-19); dual exhaust systems (September-October 2003, pages 14-17); 289 HiPo single exhaust system (November-December 2008, pages 24-27); and Don’s Custom Exhaust reproduction of the 1964-65 Fairlane HiPo dual exhaust system (May-June 2007, pages 16-17). Be sure to look these over if interested in additional information.

Part Number Embossed Number A B C D E F G Type Remarks Replacement

C2OZ-5230-AC2OA-5230-C, E, GC2OA-5230-K, M

23¾" 1¾" turndown 1¾" 6" 6" round V8 C2OZ-5230-B

C2OZ-5230-B C2OA-5230-D, F, J 23¾" 1¾" turndown 1½" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder C2OZ-5230-G

C2OZ-5230-C C2OA-5230-L 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C2OZ-5230-F

C2OZ-5230-D C2OA-5230-T 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C2OZ-5230-E

C2OZ-5230-E C2OA-5230-Y 25" 2" turndown 2" 6" 6" round V8, before 6-3-62 C2OZ-5230-H

C2OZ-5230-F C2OA-5230-V 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C2OZ-5230-E

C2OZ-5230-G C2OA-5230-U 23¾" 1¾" turndown 1¾" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder C2OZ-5230-J

C2OZ-5230-H C2OA-5230-AA 25" 2" turndown 2" 6" 6" roundV8, from 6-3-62before 12-7-62

C2OZ-5230-J

C2OZ-5230-J C5RA-5230-C 22" 1¾" turndown 1½" 6" 6" round

C3OZ-5230-A C3OA-5230-A, E 22" 1¾" turndown 1½" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder C4OZ-5230-B

C3OZ-5230-B C3OA-5230-B 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C3OZ-5230-D

C3OZ-5230-C C3OA-5230-C 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C3OZ-5230-D

C3OZ-5230-D C3OA-5230-G 25" 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C3YY-5230-B

C3OZ-5230-E C3OA-5230-H, R 22" 1¾" turn out 1½" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder S/W C4OZ-5230-D

C3OZ-5230-F C3OA-5230-J 2" turn out 6" 6" round V8 S/W C3OZ-5230-G

C3OZ-5230-G C3OA-5230-L, S 27" 2" turn out 1¾" 6" 6" round V8 S/W C4OZ-5230-A

C3OZ-5230-H C3OA-5230-N 1¾" turndown 6" 6" round 6-cylinder C3OZ-5230-A

C3OZ-5230-J C3OA-5230-T 1¾" turn out 6" 6" round 6-cylinder S/W C3OZ-5230-E

C3OZ-5230-K Kit NR

C3OZ-5230-L Kit NR

C3OZ-5230-M C3OA-5230-V 27" 2" 2½" turndown 2¼" 6" 6" round HiPo C4OZ-5230-E

C3YY-5230-A C3OA-5230-K 2" turndown 6" 6" round V8 C3YY-5230-B

C3YY-5230-B C3OA-5230-M 27" 1¼" 2" turndown 1¾" 6" 6" round V8 from 12-7-62 C4OZ-5230-C

C4OZ-5230-A C4OA-5230-E, M 27" 2" 2" turn out 2" 6" 6" round V8 S/W C2OZ-5230-J

C4OZ-5230-B C4OA-5230-F 22" 2 1¾" turndown 1½" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder C2OZ-5230-J

C4OZ-5230-C C4OA-5230-G, R 27" 2" 2" turndown 2" 6" 6" round V8 C2OZ-5230-J

C4OZ-5230-D C4OA-5230-H, S 22" 2" 1¾" turn out 1½" 6" 6" round 6-cylinder S/W C2OZ-5230-J

C4OZ-5230-E C4OA-5230-J, K, T 27" 2" 2½" 4.66" 2¼" 6" 6" round HiPo C2OZ-5230-J

C4OZ-5230-FC4OA-5230-BC4OZ-5C257-B

110.82" NA 2" NA 2" NA NA Arvinodefrom 4-13-64HiPo R.H.

NR

C4OZ-5230-G C4OA-5C258-B 110.82" NA 2" NA 2" NA NA Arvinodefrom 4-13-64HiPo L.H.

NR

C5OZ-5230-A C5OA-5230-A 22" 1¾" turn out 1½" 6" 6" round S/W C2OZ-5230-J

C5OZ-5230-B C5OA-5230-B 27" 2" 2" turn out 2" 6" 6" round V8 S/W C2OZ-5230-J

C5OZ-5230-C C5OA-5232-B 24" 29.25" 2" 31.15" 2" 7¾" 3¼" oval A-code L.H. NR

C5OZ-5230-D C5OA-5230-E 24" 29.25" 2" 31.15" 2" 7¾" 3¼" oval A-code R.H. NR

C5OZ-5A289-A C5OA-5212-A 18" 2" 2" turndown 1&/8" 5" 5" round A-code resonator NR

Cells left blank have dimensions unknown by author. NR - not replaced

j May-June 2011 11

First in this article will be a summary of the major 1962-65 Fairlane exhaust system components. Since the last time this information was presented, in a slightly different format, new obsolete part numbers have been uncovered and identifi ed. These are included in the list of components. Also presented are the specs, known markings, and replacement part numbers.

In the beginning, Ford was superseding pipes and muffl ers at a fairly good rate. You can see that by the instances of part numbers with a comma separating suf-fi xs, where each suffi x represents a part modifi ed in some way or another. By 1964, part numbers were stabilizing; however, they continued to be superseded for service replacements. In the end, Ford had whittled down to just one service replacement 6"-round muffl er for servicing almost all applications—the C2OZ-5230-J muffl er. It was a rather poor substitute for any but the 6-cylinder engine due to its small inlet and outlet. In addition, the outlet spout was not really appropriate for the station wagons. Wagons needed the exhaust to exit right at the driver’s corner of the rear bumper. Otherwise, exhaust fumes would recirculate into the cargo and passenger’s areas if the tailgate window was down or if weatherstripping failed to adequately seal the tailgate to the chassis.

For a quick review of the early Fairlane systems, all 6-cylinder applications used 1¾" diameter pipes. The 1962 221 V8 with manual transmission also used the 1¾" diameter pipes. But all other V8s, with the exception of the 289 HiPo single exhaust system, used 2" diameter pipes. The 289 HiPo single exhaust system used a unique Y-pipe which brought 2" pipes from the exhaust mani-folds to a 3" diameter collector, then narrowed to 2½" for the extension pipe. Otherwise, the system was similar to the standard sedan/hardtop V8 system.

For 6-cylinder applications, Ford used one pipe for manual transmissions and another for the automatic transmissions. The 6-cylinder customer also had an op-tion for a heavy-duty clutch. In this case, the standard 2.77 non-synchronized fi rst-gear 3-speed manual was replaced by the physcially larger, fully-synchronized 3.03 3-speed. This substitution had no impact on the exhaust system for sedans and hardtops. However, station wagon pipes crossed over from the engine’s right side to the left side aft of the transmission. With the larger 3.03 3-speed (heavy-duty clutch), Ford used the automatic inlet pipe with this option. The option was available for 1963-65.

In late 1964, Ford replaced the 289 HiPo single exhaust system with an Arvinode dual exhaust system. The Arvinode system was made by Arvin Industries and consisted of glass-pack-type in-line muffl ers with wave-tuned rear resonators, all welded together as a single assembly for each side. The system gave the HiPo Fairlane a distinctive rumble, much to my liking!

In 1965, Ford released the dual exhaust system for the sedans/hardtops with A-code premium-fueled 225-horsepower 289-4V. Twenty-four-inch oval muffl ers were positioned under the rear seat fl oor boards, and 5" round rear resonators mounted in the rear quarter panel areas.

It is the popularity of the dual exhaust systems which prompts the writing of the remainder of this article. Reproduction systems are becoming available, but what is not are the exhaust hangers and other supporting components. However, with a little fabrica-tion these problem areas can be overcome.

Part Number Stamped Number Diameter & Length Replacement

C2OZ-5246-A C2OA-5246-D, G, K 1¾", 39.3", Y-pipe C2OZ-5246-J

C2OZ-5246-B C2OA-5246-E, H, M 1¾", 47.4", Inlet NR

C2OZ-5246-C C2OA-5246-F, J, N 1¾", 47.4", Inlet NR

C2OZ-5246-D C2OA-5246-L 2", 39.4", Y-pipe NR

C2OZ-5246-E C2OA-5246-R 1¾", Y-pipe C2OZ-5246-A

C2OZ-5246-F C2OA-5246-S 2", Y-pipe C2OZ-5246-D

C2OZ-5246-G C2OA-5246-T 1¾", Inlet C2OZ-5246-B

C2OZ-5246-H C2OA-5246-U 1¾", Y-pipe C2OZ-5246-C

C2OZ-5246-J C2OA-5246-V 1¾", Y-pipe NR

C3OZ-5246-A C3OA-5246-A 1¾", Inlet C3OZ-5246-F

C3OZ-5246-B C3OA-5246-B 1¾", Inlet C3OZ-5246-G

C3OZ-5246-C C3OA-5246-D 2", Y-pipe C3OZ-5246-J

C3OZ-5246-D C3OA-5246-L, U 1¾", 46.9", Inlet NR

C3OZ-5246-E C3OA-5246-M, V 1¾", 46.9", Inlet NR

C3OZ-5246-F C3OA-5246-N, Y 1¾", 52.8", Inlet NR

C3OZ-5246-G C3OA-5246-R, Z 1¾", 51.6", Inlet NR

C3OZ-5246-H C3OA-5246-S, AA 2", 38.8", Y-pipe NR

C3OZ-5246-J C3OA-5246-T 2", 44.5", Y-pipe C3OZ-5246-K

C3OZ-5246-K C3OA-5246-T, AB 2", 44.4", Y-pipe NR

C3OZ-5246-L C3OA-5246-AD 2½", 45.5", Y-pipe NR

C4OZ-5246-A C4OA-5246-A 1¾", 46.9", Inlet NR

C4OZ-5246-B C4OA-5246-B 1¾", 46.8", Inlet NR

C4OZ-5246-C C4OA-5246-C, H 1¾", 52.8", Inlet NR

C4OZ-5246-D C4OA-5246-D 1¾", 52.4", Inlet NR

C4OZ-5246-E C4OA-5246-E 2", 38.8", Y-pipe NR

C4OZ-5246-F C4OA-5246-F 2", 44.5", Y-pipe NR

C4OZ-5246-G C4OA-5246-G 2½", 45.5", Y-pipe NR

C4OZ-5246-H C4OA-5246-J 2", 43.5", H-pipe NR

C5OZ-5246-A C5OA-5246-A 2", 38.8", Y-pipe NR

C5OZ-5246-B C5OA-5246-B, D 2", 43.4", H-pipe NR

C5OZ-5246-C C5OA-5246-C 2", 44.6", Y-pipe NR

C5OZ-5246-D C5OA-5246-F 2", 41.5", H-pipe NR

Inlet, Y-pipe, or H-pipe from engine exhaust manifold/s to extension pipe/s.

Arvin Industries was noted as an innovator of advanced sound attenuation using what was called wave form modulation. The idea was to use the pressure pulses in a refl ective way so that the bounce back would meet the incoming pulse head on—like a receding wave on the beach meets and tends to stop the next incoming wave. The key was to fi rst knock down the level of the waves by absorbing, or peeling off, some of the energy by dispersing the pulses through louvers and into steel mesh where they were muffl ed. What remained then entered a resonator where part of the pulse entered a deadend tube and refl ected back out the entrance and against the incoming pulses.

The idea was that if this technology could be made practi-cal, it would give engineers more latitude in how they routed exhaust systems, since the need for fat, wide muffl ers would be eliminated. Ford made a decision to give this technology a try in April 1964 in the Fairlane with high performance 289.

May-June 2011 j 12

Part Number Stamped Number Diameter & Length Replacement

C2OZ-5A212-A C2OA-5A212-B, C, D 1¾", 80.9" C3OZ-5A212-C

C2OZ-5A212-B C2OA-5A212-E 2", 78.7" C2OZ-5A212-C

C2OZ-5A212-C C2OA-5A212-F 2", 78.2" C3OZ-5A212-E

C3OZ-5A212-A C3OA-5A212-A 1¾" C3OZ-5A212-D

C3OZ-5A212-B C3OA-5A212-B 2" C3OZ-5A212-F

C3OZ-5A212-C C3OA-5A212-C 1¾", 80.6" NR

C3OZ-5A212-D C3OA-5A212-D 1¾", 84.6" NR

C3OZ-5A212-E C3OA-5A212-E 2", 77.9" NR

C3OZ-5A212-F C3OA-5A212-F, G 2", 81.4" C4OZ-5A212-D

C3OZ-5A212-G C3OA-5A212-H 2" NR

C4OZ-5A212-A C4OA-5A212-A, G 1¾", 80.9" NR

C4OZ-5A212-B C4OA-5A212-B 1¾", 85.3" NR

C4OZ-5A212-C C4OA-5A212-C 2", 78.5" NR

C4OZ-5A212-D C4OA-5A212-E 2", 80.4" NR

C4OZ-5A212-E C4OA-5A212-E 2½", 73.5" NR

C5OZ-5A212-A C5OA-5A212-A 1¾", 81.3" NR

Extension pipe from inlet, Y-pipe, or H-pipe to muffl er.

In early 1965 production, Ford included the system in the Mustang. But, the Mustang was different in that the quarter-wave attenuation was tried in the lead muffl er and the energy absorb-ing muffl er was at the rear. The Fairlane reversed that order.

It would have to be concluded that the system was not suc-cessful. Mustang sales of the 289 HiPo greatly eclipsed the Fair-lane K-code, and Mustang owners tended to be more vocal with their complaints that the system was too loud. As a consequence, after just six months, Ford scrapped the Arvinode system and be-gan installing regular muffl ers in Mustangs. Ford even released a Technical Service Bulletin for replacing the quarter wave muffl er in existing Mustangs when customers complained.

The Fairlane system was more successful, completing the 1965 model year with no changes from the 1964 system. Part of its success might have been due to the lower number of cars sold (fewer complaints), or the Fairlane owners’ higher tolerance—or love—for the noise level produced. From personal experience, I never objected to the sound, although my wife was not particu-larly fond of it.

The year was 1972 and I wanted dual exhaust on my 1962 Fairlane 500 4-door sedan. I took a trip down to my local Ford dealer and ordered a set of HiPo exhaust manifolds, H-pipe, and both muffl er assemblies, setting me back $110. I loved the sound. Unfortunately, fuels at that time were very hard on exhaust sys-tems and by 1976 the system was rotting out from the inside. I kept the rear resonnators and the pipes, but threw the muffl ers away. Eventually, I threw the resonators away because they rot-ted out even in dry storage. So, for only four years I listened to the mellow rumble of the Arvinode system and can still hear it in my mind today. It was awesome!

There is no practical way to replicate the exactness of the Ar-vinode system, but a few years ago I began working with Don’s Custom Exhaust to see what we might be able to do to get close. Using NOS and original pieces of the Arvinode system, Don was able to bend the pipes into the original shape of the system. He then found some nice inline attenuating muffl ers to install where the original attentuating muffl ers and rear quarter-wave resona-

tors were installed. We now had a complete system.Later, we began working on the 1965 Fairlane

A-code system. Don took care of the H-pipe and the necessary pipes to route the exhaust to the bumper. We did not have muffl ers, so the pipes were made without the muffl ers. Depending on what you want-ed to add to the system, you could cut out sections of pipe and add in your own muffl ers.

I discussed the muffl er problem with Joe Tonietto of Waldron’s Antique Exhaust and he came up with both the 24" long oval muffl ers for under the rear seats fl oor boards and the 18" long, 5" round resona-tor type muffl ers for the rear. You still have to weld these into the pipes that Don can provide.

Both systems require either using a dual exhaust or station wagon axle housing brake junction block. This junction block forces the rear brake hose to be routed to the inside of the rear shock absorber. Normally it goes to the outboard side, but on dual exhaust systems, that is where the exhaust pipe on the driver’s side must go. If you can’t fi nd the junc-tion block that Ford used (from either a dual exhaust 1964-65 Fairlane or a 1963-65 station wagon), you can modify a standard one that will work just fi ne until, or if ever, you fi nd the correct one.

If you have decided to install the A-code exhaust system and have a 1962-63 Fairlane, there is another job you must do. Ford used rather large brackets for anchoring the parking brake cables. These brackets intrude into the area under the rear seat fl oor needed for the oval muffl ers. There is just not enough room left between the bracket and the front leaf spring hanger. The easiest way to solve the problem is to replace these brackets with smaller ones that accomplish the same cable anchoring job as the large ones. These smaller brackets were on every 1964-65 Fairlane, so fi nding them on junked cars is not too hard. You can even check ebay for people parting out cars. I am sure one of them would cut out that section of the rear fl oor for you. It is not a high-demand area of sheet metal. We will go into some detail on how to locate these smaller brackets after you have removed the large ones. These brackets were spot-welded to the fl oor, so you will have to drill out the welds. You can either weld in the smaller ones, or do as I did and just bolt them in.

It should be noted that if using the 289 HiPo dual exhaust system, changing the parking brake cable anchors is not neces-sary. The pipes pass by the anchors while still parallel to the driveshaft.

A-code exhaust systems also used brackets to hold up the parking brake cables. Ford used cutter bolts to attach the brackets to the fl oor panels—the same type bolts used to attach other ex-haust components. The brackets are fairly easy to fabricate from strips of steel, and templates are provided. I will also provide their location on the chassis as seen from below and from inside the car. The brackets were necessary so that the cables did not continually whack into the oval muffl ers as the rear suspension moved up and down. Ford included a thick rubber sheath over the cable as it passed over the leaf springs. Unlike other appli-cations, the cables were not held to the leaf springs by a spring bridging under the leaf assemblies. The cables free-fl oated above the leaves. But, under severe rear suspension travel it was possi-ble for the cable to strike the chassis. The rubber sheath protected the cable if that happened. It also prevented any clanging sounds that might have resulted.

j May-June 2011 13

Here again, these changes are not necessary with the 289 HiPo dual exhaust system. The cables are well clear of the dual exhaust pipes as they rise from next to the driveshaft to go over the axle housing. Standard park-ing brake cable systems were used.

The remainder of the concerns deal with the exhaust system hangers, Anyone can drill some holes and install straps. I will look at other ap-proaches. First, on availability. When comparing the number of Fairlanes produced, there were far more A-code Fairlanes than K-code Fairlanes. Having said that, fi nding A-code exhaust hangers is not easy. So, I will spend some time looking at ways to fabricate hangers that will perform the function of the originals, but are fabricated from forming and welding plate steel. The hangers on the A-code were mirrors of each other from right to left sides. The front hangers attached to the front side of the cross-member under the fl oor above the axle housing. Locating the attachment points is no problem for 1965 Fairlane owners as Ford provided the holes for their sedans and hardtops. However 1962-64 Fairlanes do not have these holes, so I will give their locations so the hangers can be properly positioned. The hangers consisted of a plate attached to the cross-member, rubber strap, and a lower bracket that was clamped to the exhaust pipe.

The rear hangers attached at the rear bumper bolt. The bracket projected outboard about 5". From 3" to 5", a 2" wide rubber strap was looped to a lower bracket that attached to a bracket spot-welded to the rear resonator. You can either fabricate a bracket to attach to your resonator, or substitute a bracket that can clamp directly to the resonator’s outlet pipe.

The 289 HiPo dual exhaust system rear hangers were similar in design to the A-code hangers. The main difference was that the bracket projected about 7/8" less outboard and the bracket under the loop was one for attach-ing directly to the pipe. In fact, with a little care, you could trim down the upper part of the A-code bracket to be essentially indistinguishable from an original HiPo bracket.

Make bend along this 12° line. Bend will be about 70°.

Hole @!/64"(.335")

Fabricate parking brake cable straps from 14-gauge steel that is 1¼" wide. (14-gauge steel has a nominal thickness of .0747", but can vary from .0697" to .0797". My strap measured .078" thick.) First, drill the holes in each end. My holes measured .335".

Make bend along this 12° line. Bend will be about 70°.

Hole @!/64"(.335")

Here is the driver’s side parking brake cable bracket looking from the rear toward the front. The 12° bends give the bracket a 12° tilt to the inboard side, which better matches the cable’s descending path. Note that the bracket is positioned near an identifi able seam (green arrows), which helps in determining its proper location. See pictures to the left for close-ups. The cable has a rubber sheath where it goes between the leaf spring and frame rail. This sheath protects the cable, which can contact the frame on suspension travel. Note the mark on the frame (red arrow) where the paint is worn off from rubbing against the rubber sheath.

➙➙

➙➙

➙➙ ➙➙

Here are close-ups of the driver’s side bracket mounting. The rear mount aligns roughly with the chassis seam (see arrows), though on the passenger’s side the bracket was actually a little over the seam. On the front side, the bracket was just a little off-center on the fl oor rib. Note the “cutter” type bolts used.

➙➙

➙➙

%/8" &/8"

The 289 HiPo brackets over the axle housing are a mixed bag. Ford actually used a bracket that was essentially identical to the standard single exhaust system bracket. The signifi cant difference is that the HiPo bracket had a rectangular hole on the bracket that attached to the original exhaust pipe. The original muffl er assembly had a locating tab at this point to help

the factory workers. The workers posi-tioned the rectan-gular hole over the tab and tightened down the clamp. Since none of the reproduction pipes have these locat-ing tags, the stan-dard single exhaust hanger will work perfectly.

One might ex-pect to fi nd a mir-rored bracket on the driver ’s side, but alas, that was not the case because Ford did not want to relocate the stock brake line routing or the axle venting hose. Both items were in the way of using a mirrored bracket. So, Ford developed a unique bracket just for the driver’s side. For-tunately, the hang-er was made from

4.23" (Note 1)

3.96" (Note 1)

May-June 2011 j 14

Make loop for cable in this area. Approximate shape shown below.

Inside diameter about !%/32".

!%/32"loop

Make bend along this 12° line. Bend will be about 70°.

Hole @!/64"(.335")

the area indicated using the approximate shape indicated. Once the loop is done, bend the straps up at the 12° lines approximately 70°. Fine-tune the angles so that the holes are fl at to the surface with the holes 33/8" apart. See templates below. The fabricated strap should fi t into the footprint with feet fl at to a level surface. The 12° bends will give the bracket a 12° tilt in the vertical.

3 #/8"

Passenger’s sideparking brake cable strap(actual size)

Make loop for cable in this area. Approximate shape shown below.

Inside diameter about !%/32".

!%/32"loop

Make bend along this 12° line. Bend will be about 70°.

Hole @!/64"(.335")

Driver’s sideparking brake cable strap(actual size)

Passenger’s side

3 #/8"

Driver’s side

This is the passenger’s side with the bracket removed. Notice that the rusted area indicates the bracket was just a little over the seam. Hole center varied from 3/8" on the pas-senger’s side to 1/2"on the driver’s side. The rear hole (top of picture) was about centered on the extended fl oor rib, whereas the forward hole was slightly more outboard.

%/8%/8""&/8&/8""

#/4#/4"" #/4#/4""

33 #/8#/8""

22 &/8&/8"

#/8#/8"-"-!/2!/2""

11!/4!/4""

#/4#/4"" #/4#/4""

&/8&/8""%/8%/8""From the inside, us-ing the fl oor rib as a guide, and the seam (green arrows), the bracket holes can be located. Bolts used to mount bracket are “cutter” bolts, so only drill the holes large enough to start the cutting.

33 #/8#/8""

➙➙ ➙➙

Closest drill size to that is 21/64" (.328"). Next, form a loop for going around the parking brake cable in

simple metal stock which was formed and bent. The shapes and bends are a bit com-plicated, but they are doable. I will show you how.

Note 1 - Measurements given to help recreate the template across the page fold.

4.23" (Note 1)

3.96" (Note 1)

Passenger’s sidePassenger’s side

FrontFrontof carof car➙➙

FrontFrontof carof car➙➙

j May-June 2011 15

Returning now to the problem of the rear brake hose, as men-tioned earlier, some changes must be made. The hose normally was routed to the outside of the driver’s side rear shock. The reason was simple—it was the shortest path requiring the short-est hose, therefore represented the lowest cost.

But, on dual exhaust Fairlanes, this area had to be cleared to allow routing for the exhaust pipe. So, Ford used a longer hose to route the brake hose inboard of the shock. This also meant that the hose joined the axle housing brake junction block at a different angle.

The 1963-65 Fairlane station wagon exhaust system, unlike on the sedans/hardtops, ran its pipe down the driver’s side. As a consequence, it needed this area clear as well. But, Ford also changed the brake line routing so that the wagon would use the same short rear brake hose as the sedans/hardtops. All Ford need-ed to do was change the brake axle housing brass junction block. And, it was this junction block that Ford borrowed for the sedan/hardtop dual exhaust applications. However, because the brake line routing was not changed, a longer rear hose was required.

The longer hoses can be obtained easily, but not-so-easy might be fi nding a station wagon or other 1964-65 Fairlane with dual exhaust to salvage the axle junction block. However, there are many options for countering this obstacle. I will show but one way. There are others.

Former club member Tom Garrett was a tool maker. He fab-ricated a small spacer that matched the 3" curvature of the axle tube on one side, and was fl at on the other. The shape he chose matched the standard junction block. This allowed him to fl ip over the standard junction block so that the inlet was pointing in the correct direction for an inboard routing of the rear brake hose.

Flipping the block meant that the curved side of the block was now upward. Several options are available for dealing with this. The one I settled on turned out to be quite effective. Using a large

The area outboard of the rear shock needed to be clear to allow the exhaust pipe to come through. Ford rerouted the brake hose to the inboard side of the shock as shown on this original 1965 Fairlane A-code.

The standard and station wagon (or dual exhaust) junction blocks were quite different. However, when checking the impact of the different port locations for the steel brake lines on the axle housing (right), I had no prob-lem connecting the same lines in spite of this difference. When the standard block was fl ipped and superimposed on the wagon block (left), the hose entry angle differed 15°—not enough to be a problem.

Station wagon orStation wagon ordual exhaustdual exhaust

junction blockjunction block

StandardStandardjunction blockjunction block

Station wagon orStation wagon ordual exhaustdual exhaust

junction blockjunction block

StandardStandardjunction blockjunction block

fl at-faced fi le, I removed 50-thousandths from the area of the original curvature. Taking only about 15 minutes and working carefully to keep the fi le level produced very satisfactory results.

I should point out that you do need some kind of small spacer between the axle housing and the fl ipped junction block because the steel brake line ports were machined close to the top of the fi tting. When fl ipped, they become close to the bottom of the fi tting where it might be impossible to get a tube-type wrench around the tube nut.

May-June 2011 j 16

Tom Garrett’s nifty little spacer matched the 3" curvature of the axle tube and established a fl at surface for the fl ipped standard brass junction block. This spacer was made from steel, but brass would be better from a corrosion-resistance point-of-view. Some kind of spacer is important to get the steel brake line nuts away from the axle tubes (see right). The top curvature of the fl ipped junction block was changed to a fl at surface for sealing the vent tube nut by carefully fi ling with a large, fl at fi le. About a .05" step-down was required to eliminate all curvature. The job took about 15 minutes. When done, the result was clean and almost “stock” looking. You could keep it as a permanent modifi cation, or a temporary one until a wagon junction block is found. The inlet port of the fl ipped standard junction block is 15° more inboard than the wagon/dual exhaust block. This is in a direction away from the rear shock and does not interfere with another other item. The original hose length for dual exhaust applications was 16½" long. A NAPA hose UP11146 ($19.69) is ½" longer at 17" (18" overall length) and will work very well.

The next discussion only applies to 1962-63 Fairlane owners attempting to install an A-code dual exhaust system with the oval muffl ers up under the rear seat fl oor pan. As mentioned earlier, the parking brake cable anchors are large and leave insuffi cient room between the anchor and leaf spring forward mount to properly position the oval muffl ers. These large anchors need to be swapped out for the smaller ones used on all 1964-65 Fairlanes. This is not a part you can buy because it was welded to the fl oor and only came as part of an assembly. The anchors must be removed from a parts car, then either welded or bolted into your car.

Like the 1962-63 anchors, the 1964-65 anchors were spot-welded in at least four places. The welding appeared to have been done by hand as the weld locations were not precise, but in general areas. However, the specifi c position of each weld can easily be determined by the telltale circular warps in the fl oor pans. Best to harvest the 1964-65 anchors by drilling out the spot-welds from the fl oor side, then eliminate the 1962-63 anchors by

This is a section of floor removed from a 1963 Fair-lane. It shows the massive size of the parking brake cable anchors. The black dots locate the spot-welds, plus the welding on the edge. Drill through the anchor to preserve the fl oor pan.

j May-June 2011 17

drilling from the anchor side. This will give you a clean fl oor and clean 1964-65 anchors to work with. You can weld the edges, spot-weld, or drill holes and bolt the anchors to the fl oor.

Ford was not precise about the location of the anchors. I found fore and aft, as well as side-to-side, positions between driver’s side and passenger’s side could vary by ±1/8". Nor is there a real need for precision—just work to get them reasonably close to where they should be.

The ribs on the fl oor pan have a series of holes in the ribs which form a straight line across the tunnel area. The two inner holes can be used as a guide for lo-cating the anchors. Laying a straight-edge through the centers of these holes gives a fi xed location. It is best to measure your particular car and replicate those measurements when installing the 1964-65 anchors. The anchors are not parallel with the car’s axis, but set anywhere from 3° to 3½° to the outboard side. This slight offset eliminates entrance angles as the cables enter their sheaths from the forward loop, thereby reducing wear.

Two pre-punched holes in the fl oor pan can be used as points of reference. The hole on the driver’s side was used to hold a clip for the fuel line, so you can center on the clip, or temporarily remove it. The passenger’s side hole is probably fi lled with black sealant, and you might have to clear some of it away to see the hole. Position a straight-edge between the centers of these two holes. The centers of the anchor’s cable holes on this car were 1" forward on the left side and 7/8" forward on the right side. The aft surface of the anchor is at a 3°-31/2° angle to the straight-edge. The two anchor cable holes are 73/8" apart.

Superimposing the 1964-65 Fairlane anchor (painted in black) over the 1962-63 Fairlane anchor shows how greatly the size of the anchor was reduced (left). Now there was room for oval muffl ers. Note how the anchor was raked inboard, giving much needed extra room (right).

A good way to replicate the anchor’s position would be to develop a fi xture. I made the one below from some scrap alumi-num. The idea is to bolt the fi xture to the two fl oor panel bolts. The two other pieces of the fi xture are L-shaped brackets. The holes to attach the L brackets are large enough to allow some ad-justment to get the L-brackets against the anchors before tighten-ing the screws. Then use a lead pencil or other marker to outline the anchor’s cable holes on the fi xture. Now you can remove the old anchors. You might even want to just leave the fi xture in place while doing so. Once the 1964-65 anchors are ready to be installed, just match up the anchor’s cable holes to your fi xture. You could even clamp the anchor to the fi xture to hold the anchor in position while you weld or drill new holes.

Fixture in place and L-brackets positioned against the anchors.

Shown as 7#/8", but might be as little as 7!/8" on your car.

14#/4" (could vary slightly between cars)

1" (will vary slightly between sides and vehicles)

77#/8#/8""

1414#/4#/4"" 1"1"&/8&/8""

➙➙➙➙

Front of carFront of car

Front of carFront of car

Driver’s sideDriver’s side

Driver’s sideDriver’s side

Passenger’s sidePassenger’s side

Passenger’s sidePassenger’s side

May-June 2011 j 18

Viewed from directly below, the angle of the brackets is more apparent. To align with the loop at the front of the cable, this angle needs to be about 3°. However, I found great variance in the angle, fore and aft position, and even lateral position from side to side, and even more so when comparing different vehicles. In the one shown here, it is easy to see that the anchor on the left (driver’s side) is a little more forward than the one on the pas-senger’s side. Fortunately, precision in the placement of the anchors is not critical, but you can improve the fi t if you choose.

With the L-bracket against the anchor, I used a lead pencil to color in the anchor’s cable hole. (The lead can be wiped off for the next use of the fi xture.) Once the anchor is removed, the tracing will show me exactly where the 1964-65 anchor should be located. Just rest the anchor against the L-bracket and weld or bolt the new anchor in place.

Center-to-center of anchor cable holes

➙➙

Front of carFront of car

Driver’s sideDriver’s side Passenger’s sidePassenger’s side

Options available for selecting the kind of dual exhaust you want to use are much better than they used to be, thanks to the efforts of Don Ickes of Don’s Custom Exhaust, and Joe Tonietto of Waldron’s Antique Exhaust. No, it is not your $200, make-it-work exhaust system. You have to be willing to spend some money. But, what you get is a system that is pleasantly close to the original in appearance. Fairlanes have their gas tanks offset to the driver’s side so that a single 6"-round muffl er could be installed between the gas tank and rear frame rail. This displace-ment left very little room between the gas tank and the driver’s side rear frame rail for anything but an exhaust pipe extension. In short, you can’t get a set of muffl ers alongside the gas tank inboard of the frame rails. Fairlane dual exhaust systems used the rear quarter panel areas outside the frame rails for resonators.

When selecting a system for your car, you can keep some relatively unknown facts in mind. Up front you have your choice of running with standard exhaust manifolds connected to the A-code H-pipe, or you can run with 289 HiPo exhaust manifolds and the K-code H-pipe. Since both systems have H-pipes that exit in the same place, you have a choice of what kind of rear half exhaust system to use. For example, you can run standard exhaust manifolds with A-code H-pipe into the 289 HiPo muffl er assemblies. Or you can run the HiPo H-pipe into the A-code rear exhaust system. These combinations make sense under certain conditions. For example, you might like the look of a 289 HiPo engine bay, but not want the noise associated with in-line glass-

pack type muffl ers. So, you can choose to make your car on the quieter side. The opposite might also be true if you have built up some performance in your small block, but are still using stock exhaust manifolds. For that aggressive sound, you can team up the A-code H-pipe to the HiPo muffl er assemblies.

For 289 HiPo exhaust manifolds, you can go with original 289 HiPo ones, or save some money by using reproductions. My rec-ommendation for reproductions remains California Pony Cars. Ask for ENG-000-300 ($295 pair MSRP). I did a review on these in the January-February 2007 Fairlaner pages 27-29 (available on FCA’s website). These are for a manual choke, but a crafty person could install a heat chamber for an automatic choke if so inclined.

H-pipes for both the A-code and K-code are available from Don’s Custom Exhaust. Don can also provide you with the HiPo muffl er assemblies. If you want to go the A-code route, Don has the pipes minus the muffl ers. You have to fi nd and install your own muffl ers. Waldron’s Antique Exhaust has close approxima-tions to the original A-code muffl ers. Joe’s muffl ers for under the rear seat area are 2" in and out with an offset/offset confi guration and a 24" muffl er body length, just like the originals. There is a slight difference in the oval shape as the originals were more of a fl attened oval than a true oval, and the offset difference between the inlet and outlet pipes is just a little less on Joe’s, but it is much better than anything else you are likely to fi nd.

(template atactual size)

j May-June 2011 19

This is the original A-code muffl er.

Waldron’s Antique Exhaust muffl er is superimposed on top the original. Because of parallax and being closer to the camera, it looks larger, but the body is the same length at 24".

Because the offset-to-offset distance is a little less than the original, the muffl er will be angled a little more than stock, but will not be noticeable when installed.

Don of Don's Custom Exhaust makes the A-code pipe. He provides the offset for the muffl er by S-curving the pipe in place of the muffl er.

Here is the muffl er overlaid on the pipe. Just cut the pipe and weld the muffl er in. The pipe should be welded as close to the body of the muffl er as possible.

Shown in front view, it can be seen that the muffl er is a little fatter than the original and the inlet/outlet pipes are not as far toward the edges. Still, this muffl er is about as close as we can currently get to matching the A-code muffl ers. At the rear of the original muffl er, the pipe rises almost immedi-ately from the muffl er, so you will want to cut most of the 2" outlet pipe off and weld Don’s pipe as close to the muffl er body as possible.

Waldron’s Antique Exhaust rear resonators are a good match for the A-code system—12" body length, 5" round, 2" inlet.

Inlets and outlets are reasonably close to the original. In fact, they are the best in matching the original that I have seen in twenty years.

The outlet is not quite a good match but can be improved by some trim-ming. The original used a bracket for attaching to the rear hanger. The reproduc-tion would use a hanger that attached directly to the pipe. These issues will be discussed when looking at hanger options for these systems. With some work, this resonator can be made to look stock.

May-June 2011 j 20

The same can be said of Waldron’s rear resonator. It matches the body length, diameter of 5" round, and 2" inlet. It does not have the bracket attached at the rear like the original. This was a conscious decision because it simplifi es fabricating a hanger. However, if a bracket were desired, it would not be too diffi cult to fabricate and weld to the resonator. Below I show a template that can be used. The outlet could use some work to come closer to the original, but with a little trimming would be quite respect-able, or another outlet pipe could be fabricated and welded in its place. Below is a side view of the outlet as Ford intended it. You will note that there is a fl attened area in the cross-section of the pipe along the top at the end. This gave a little extra clear-ance with the rear bumper. All these changes could be made to the Waldron’s resonator to give even a closer stock look. Still, all in all, it is a nice replacement for the original A-code resonator.

1"

1.38"~.25"

1.0"

.28" DIA. HOLES(centeredon bracket)

welds

13-gauge steel(.090" thick)

2.0"

3.5"

15°

35°

fl attened area(see cross-section)

1.88"muffl erbody

cross-sectionat fl attened area

This template will closely recre-ate the bracket spot-welded to the original A-code resonator, and allow the stock A-code rear exhaust hangers to be used. After fabrication the bracket should overlay the rear and top view patterns. This bracket will work as long as your resonator’s outlet pipe is located near the bottom of the rear surface.

Template

Rear View

Top View(actual size)

(actual size)

Bend 90° down Reverse bend 90°

Reverse bend 90°

holes .28"

j May-June 2011 21

All that is left is to hang the exhaust system!The A-code hangers would be the more easily found by the

fact that many more A-code Fairlane sedans and hardtops were produced than K-codes. All 1965 Fairlanes (except wagons, which did not use dual exhaust with the A-code engine), have provisions for mounting the intermediate hangers, whether used or not. But for 1962-64 Fairlane owners, you will have to locate the hangers yourself. It is not too diffi cult. The hangers were mounted on the front side of the cross-member running under the fl oor just forward of the axle housing.

The forward side of the cross-member on the 1965 Fairlane sedans and hardtops has provisions for the A-code exhaust hangers. Self-threading 5/16"-18 bolts were used. On 1962-64 Fairlanes, the locations will have to drilled with a 17/64" pilot hole, then tapped, or use a cutter bolt. The measurements above will locate the places to drill. The cross-member rises a short distance from the frame rail, which is why the inboard hole is further down from the top of the cross-member. The two holes are parallel to the horizon. Also, I noted that hole positions varied from side-to-side and from car to car. Notice how the holes on the passenger’s side were more toward the inboard side of the hole openings. On the driver’s side they were just slightly ouboard of center. The position is not that critical. What is impor-tant is for the holes to be horizontal and spaced 11/8" apart.

11!/8!/8""22 !/2!/2"-2"-2 %/8%/8""

&/8&/8""#/4#/4""

Driver’s sideDriver’s side

Passenger’s sidePassenger’s side

The intermediate A-code hangers are mirrors of each other. The difference is in the lower brackets. They are bent 5° off straight across the brackets. After bending the bracket 140°, the ends of the lower brackets are tilted about 8° outboard, which aligns them with the muffl ers’ rising outlet pipes. The distance between the upper rivets and lower rivets is 35/8".

May-June 2011 j 22

The angle on the upper bracket was 32°. The rubber joining the two brackets was 2" wide and had a 51/8" overall length.

The lower bracket was bent along a 5° line, which tilted the bracket about 8° when bent 140°. Notice that the extension of the bracket was also displaced slightly from center. It was the lower bracket that made the intermediate hang-ers mirrors of each other. Other-wise, the hangers were the same for both left and right side.

1965 A-code FairlaneDual Exhaust System

32°

5°

(Illustrationcourtesy of

Ford Motor Company)

j May-June 2011 23

Upper bracket of intermediate A-code hanger (both sides) 13-gauge steel (.090" thick)

When folded, weld.

Bend up 90°.

32° bend line

Bend up 30° (anti-chafe).

rivet holes (.33")

mounting holes (.33")

Lower bracket of intermediate A-code hanger11-gauge steel (.12" thick)

rivet holes (.33")

Bend 30° up (anti-chafe).

5° line. Bend lower part of bracket back around this line 140°.

This hole does not need to be made.

Curl lower part of bracket to match 2" diameter pipe.

Passenger‛s Side Driver‛s Side

2" wide, 51/8" long rubber strap attaches upper and lower bracket. Distance between upper and lower rows of bracket rivet centerlines measures 35/8" (3/4" overhang each end).

Rivet reinforcement plate (13-gauge steel)

Top View Side View

If you don’t have hangers, you will have to fabricate them. What is shown here is a way to come close to the original hanger by using some stock metal plate, heat to shape the metal, and some welding.

The original A-code pipes had a locating tab for the interme-diate hanger. This tab engaged the rectangular hole in the lower hanger bracket. Reproductions of the system do not have this locating tab, so the brackets can be fabricated without the hole.

(alltemplatesat actual

size)

The original band-type clamp used a 11/2" screw (378836-S8). This clamp was replaced by the more traditional 2" exhaust clamp.

The original A-code pipe used a locating tab for the intermediate hanger. Around the hanger was a band-type clamp. Screw must face outboard.

May-June 2011 j 24

The rear hangers for the A-code dual exhaust mounted under the aft rear bumper bracket bolt. The upper part of the bracket was stamped 13-gauge steel plate. The lower bracket was elbow-shaped and attached to the A-code resonator bracket. Between the two brackets was a rubber loop.

Because the upper bracket was formed in a stamping press, fabrication must take a slightly different approach. On the next page I provide a template which includes the correct dimensions. The side extensions of the template are folded so that one edge is in contact with the top of the bracket. When welded, it will give the strength to prevent the bracket from bending downward

under the weight of the exhaust system. The slight extensions along the sides can be curled downward to keep the top of the bracket from bending down. Done with care, the bracket would approximate the original in look, and perform the same function. This bracket is tucked well up under the rear bum-per and is generally not seen unless someone gets down under the car.

The lower bracket is more straightforward to fabricate. It is made of 11-gauge plate steel. Some bending, cutting and drilling is all that is necessary. A template (right) shows how it might be made.

The two brackets are joined by a 2" wide, 8" long rubber strap. The strap starts on top of the upper bracket, loops rearward 180° to attach to the lower bracket, then loops another 180° to the underside of the upper bracket to form a loop. The overlap of the strap ends on top is about 11/8".

A-code rear exhaust hanger. Shown is the driver’s side. The smaller lower bracket was angled about 10°, because the resonators were pointed about 10° off the car’s fore and aft axis as the exhaust system projected outboard toward the rear through the rear quarter panel area. The hanger mounted under the aft bumper bolt, and was well clear of the forward bumper bolt.

Driver‛s Side(fl ip template over for

Passenger‛s side)11-gauge steel (.12” thick)

Bend 30° up (anti-chafe).

Bend 90° up.

resonator mounting holes (.35")

10° cut line

A rubber strap 2" wide and 8" long joined the upper and lower brackets.

j May-June 2011 25

Bend 90° down,then bend long line

90° down.

After bending,these two edgeswill be in contact.Weld together (2” length).

After bending,these two edgeswill be in contact.Weld together(3/8" length).

Curl along these lines to give the metal strength against bending.

Fill-weld in these areas to give strength.

rivet hole (.33")

mounting hole (.625")

Flip template over for Passenger‛s side.

(template actual size)

Rivet support on the top and inside bottom of the loop for the lower bracket of this type.

Rivet support on the underside of the top bracket loop has an extended raised side for anti-chafi ng of the rubber strap.

When assembling a fabricated bracket, the lower bracket is angled about 10°.

That completes the A-code dual exhaust system. Last to be covered are the K-code exhaust system hangers. The rear hangers are very simi-lar to the A-code system. In fact, you could say that the A-code system, which came later, borrowed the design of the K-code rear hangers. Furthermore, it would be a relatively easy job to modify A-code rear hangers for use on the K-code Fairlane.

But, there is a twist to the story. The Fairlane K-code was a low-vol-ume production run. Furthermore, the K-code dual exhaust Arvinode system was a late-1964 production year introduction. It also appears that the Ford engineers were working hard to keep the number of new parts required to hang this system to a minimum.

The rear hangers for both sides used the identical parts. The upper bracket was the same, the rubber strap was the same, and the lower bracket was the same. But, when they were assembled as a unit, it was the angle at which the lower bracket was set that determined if the as-sembly would be for the driver’s side or the passenger’s side.

Like the A-code, the HiPo exhaust angled outward through the quar-ter panel area as it advanced toward the rear of the car. The angle was about 7°. So, if the lower bracket was set 7° outward going away from the angled side of the top bracket, it was a passenger’s side hanger. If set 7° outward toward the angled side, it was a driver’s side hanger.

This is how the lower bracket on the HiPo hanger should look. (This bracket was oversprayed with white paint when car was repainted.)

Upper bracket of rear A-code driver‛s side hanger.

13-gauge steel (.090" thick)

4"

May-June 2011 j 26

➙➙

Front of carFront of car

Driver’s sideDriver’s sidePassenger’s sidePassenger’s side

Passenger’s side hanger uses the Passenger’s side hanger uses the forward rear bumper mounting bolt.forward rear bumper mounting bolt.

Driver’s Driver’s side hanger side hanger uses the aft uses the aft rear bumper rear bumper mounting bolt.mounting bolt.

These hangers were removed from a 1965 Fairlane K-code. Interestingly, the hanger on the passenger’s side was defective and should have been rejected. The lower bracket was not bent to match that of the upper bend. As a result, the bracket rivet end and pipe end were not parallel as they should have been. So, when the bracket was clamped to the exhaust pipe, the rubber strap was greatly distorted. In addition, the tip should have been bent up slightly.

Not enough Not enough bendbend

Tip was not curledTip was not curled Properly curled tipProperly curled tip

Proper Proper S-bendS-bend

Bend 90° down,then bend long line

90° down.

After bending,these two edgeswill be in contact.Weld together (2” length)

After bending, these two edges will be in contact. weld together (3/8" length).

Curl along this line to give the metal strength against bending.

Fill-weld in this area to give strength.

rivet hole (.33")

mounting hole (.625")

(template actual size)

Driver‛s and Passenger‛s Sides

Note: If desired, a mirror image bracket could be made by fl ipping the template over. Then the rear hangers would be symmetrical with each other.

Driver‛s and Passenger‛s Sides

rivet hole (.33")

110° bend down line

110° reverse bend line

Tip up 30°.

Contour this area for 2" pipe.

Upper bracket of rear K-code hanger (both sides) 13-gauge steel (.090" thick)

10-gauge steel (.135" thick)

Underside of rivet support (surface against the rubber strap)

31/8"

j May-June 2011 27

The intermediate hangers for the Arvinode system were even more of a mixed bag. The driver’s side and passenger’s side were totally different.

The good news is that the passenger’s side was essentially identical to the standard C3OZ-5A246-C intermediate hanger—one used on virtually every 6-cylinder and V8 Fairlane sedan and hardtop from 1963 to 1965. And, these hangers can still be found as NOS parts. The top bracket is identical, as is the rubber strap. Only the lower bracket is different and only in a minor way that applies if only using original muffl er assemblies. The HiPo lower bracket has a rectangular hole to fi t over a locating tab that was tack-welded to the exhaust pipe. The standard hanger had a depression, which dimpled the exhaust pipe when the exhaust clamp was tightened. So, if using a reproduction system, which does not have locating tabs, a standard exhaust hanger on the passenger’s side will work just fi ne.

One might expect to fi nd a mirror-image hanger on the driv-er’s side, but the axle vent hose and brake line would have had to have been moved. Instead, Ford chose to develop a new hanger in a different location. The new hanger had complicated bends, but can be fabricated. The upper bracket was 10-gauge steel plate and the lower bracket used 11-gauge steel.

All the 1962-65 Fairlane sedans and hardtops will have a set of holes for the standard single exhaust system, which happens to be the same place the 289 HiPo passenger’s side intermediate hanger mounts.

➙➙➙➙

The 289 HiPo with Arvinode dual exhaust received a special driver’s side intermediate hanger which mounted on the cross-member next to the frame rail. Two holes about 13/32" in diameter were drilled on the fl ange of the cross-member. From inside the car, a C1VV-5B236-C stud mounting plate was inserted through these two holes to give the hanger two studs to mount to. Some plates might use a small cutter screw (51765-S) to hold the plate in place. On this particular K-code, the screw was not used. Also, notice that the holes were not drilled exactly parallel. They should have been, but the holes were large enough to compensate. The third hole for the mount was 13/8" down the side of the cross-member. At this hole a 5/16" cutter bolt was used to self-thread into the hole. Although I have given the measurements from a 1965 K-code Fairlane, it is best to use the bracket as a guide for best hole placement.

The passenger’s side 289 HiPo dual exhaust intermediate hanger and the standard single exhaust hanger use the same C2OA-5291-B top bracket (not shown on the HiPo hanger in these pictures) and C2OA-5A238-C rubber strap (shredded on this HiPo hanger). The lower bracket is essentially the same except the HiPo has the rectangular hole and the standard has a dimple. The standard hanger can be used directly, or you can cut out a rectangular hole, if desired.

HiPoHiPo

HiPoHiPo

StandardStandard

StandardStandard

➙➙ ➙➙

➙➙

➙➙

11%/8%/8""

11 &/8&/8""

11#/8#/8""

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1964-65 K-code FairlaneArvinode Dual Exhaust System

C1VV-5B236-C mounting plate for exhaust hanger. There is a small hole in the center of the plate to allow a small self-threading screw to thread into the sheet metal and hold the plate in place. If looking for one of these plates, check on 1965-68 Mustangs with dual exhaust. Each of these cars used two of these plates for installing the intermediate exhaust hangers.

Use of the hanger mounting plate opens the fl oor to water intrusion. Ford did not caulk the plate, but I highly recommend you do. The driver’s side intermediate hanger is complex, but can be fabricated.

(Illustrationcourtesy of

Ford Motor Company)

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To fabricate the upper driver’s side intermediate hanger brack-et, start with 10-gauge plate steel and overlay the template. Cut out the shape of the metal. It is your choice on whether to drill the holes before or after bending. I would drill the center holes fi rst. The smaller hole between the two larger holes is optional. If you would like to attach the C1VV-5B236-C mounting plate to the chassis using the center self-threading screw, then you must drill it out so the screw can pass through the hole. Also, the rivet hole can be drilled before bending. The fi nal hole can be drilled before bending as its position is not critical. But, if you wish to do a fi nal check, or are making a bracket for an existing K-code Fairlane, it would be best to drill the bracket hole after bending.

After the bending is done, test-fi t the bracket to the car. The bend between the three holes and end chassis hole must conform to the angle the cross-member makes with the chassis. You can check this and adjust accordingly. Also, if the bracket is going on a non-K-code Fairlane, the bracket should be used as a pattern to locate where the chassis holes should be drilled.

The lower bracket has two major bends and a small one at the tip. The end with the rectangular hole is contoured to clamp against a 2" diameter pipe. The rectangular hole is not needed for use with the reproduction HiPo system sold by Don’s Custom Exhaust.

To assemble the two brackets, use the picture on the previous page as a guide. The lower bracket’s sides around the rivet hole are square to the upper bracket’s sides. There is no angle between upper and lower brackets like there was with the rear hangers.

The rubber strap was 11/4" wide and 8" long. Two small rivet supports were needed for assembly. Ford did make repair kits

under the part number C3OZ-5260-A. These straps were 2" wide, 8" long, and included the rivet supports and a set of bolts to re-place the rivets. These kits repaired the loops for the rear A-code and HiPo exhaust hangers, as well as the HiPo passenger’s side intermediate hanger. One of these straps can also be cut down to a 11/4" width to repair the HiPo driver’s side intermediate hanger.

And there you have it. With a little persistence and ingenuity, you can complete a proper dual exhaust system installation in an early Fairlane.

My 1965 K-code Fairlane was missing the lower bracket. I used the tem-plate to successfully recreate one. It lacks refi nement, but shows what can be done with a little metal work.

rivet hole (.33")

rivet hole (.33")

use with C1VV-5B236-C (.41")

optional (.32")

Bend down 90°.

Bend down 72°.

chassis hole (.35")

6° line

Bend up 60°.

Bend tip 30°.

Bend 90°.

Bend up and over 145°.

rectangular hole optional

5° line

Rivet support(11/4" wide, 1" across)

rivet hole (.33")

Upper bracket driver‛s side intermediate hanger.

10-gauge steel(.14" thick)

Lower bracket driver‛s side intermediate

hanger.11-gauge steel

(.12" thick)

(templates actual size)

f

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HiPo Exhaust ReproductionSingle & Dual by Bob Mannel

Whether you would like to restore your single exhaust or dual exhaust HiPo systems, the availability of pipes and muffl ers is greater today than it has been in the past. Both systems are in reproduction and are of good quality. No guarantees on the future, so don’t put off purchases too long. The single system 2½" pipes are available from Don’s Custom Exhaust. For a suitable muffl er, contact Joe at Waldron’s Antique exhaust. For the dual exhaust system, again see Don’s Custom Exhaust. His system includes in-line muffl ers like the original. He has both muffl er assemblies and the H-pipe. Keep in mind that if you don’t want to use the cast

iron HiPo exhaust manifolds, the A-code H-pipe will connect standard exhaust manifolds to the reproduction HiPo muffl er assemblies. If you do wish to replace the in-line muffl er assemblies with something more quiet, then ask Don for the A-code pipes and check with Joe over at Waldron’s for muffl ers and rear resonators to go with those pipes. Either system will fi t your early Fairlane just right and give it that authentic look along with a nice sound.

f

HiPo Y-pipeHiPo Y-pipe

HiPo Extension pipeHiPo Extension pipe

HiPo H-pipeHiPo H-pipe

HiPo Muffl erHiPo Muffl erAssemblyAssembly

(Passenger’s(Passenger’sside shown)side shown)

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