1950s, Mother and Daughter Styles 1960s fashion

Opposition to the Vietnam War by the young and an age of social protest—led to new, radically different youthful clothing styles

1967 1960

1960’s: Mary Quant invents the miniskirt and helps to usher in a new age… She supported the anti-parent philosophy of life as fun

“Working class design, British fashion, Rock and Roll, The Beatles, Carnaby Street…all of a sudden everything came together.” Robert Orbach

Lesley Hornby= Twiggy In the 60’s Fashion became central to a young person’s identity

• Known for the high fashion mod look created by Mary Quant

• Twiggy changed the world of fashion with her short-haired, androgynous look

• Embodiment of Youth-quake generation

• Face of the decade

• Wide-eyed elfin features and slight builds—hence her nickname

• Her style has dominated the runways for forty years

• She was also famous for drawing long, fake eyelashes under her bottom lashes. These are, unsurprisingly, named “Twiggys.”

• Twiggy was regarded as one of the faces of 1960s Swinging London

1960’s model Twiggy recreates the flapper look of the 1920’s.

Two revolutionary decades for women and fashion

New fabrics that contributed to new clothing styles

• Polyester: easy-care, easy-to-wear

• New fabrics were comfortable to the touch, wrinkle free, and care free

• Perfect match for simple miniskirts and short tunic dresses of the era

• Vinyl (also called PVC) was a shiny, wet- look plastic, easy to color and print with flamboyant designs. Was used at first for outerwear then for everything including bags, belts, tunics, and miniskirts

1960’s Hot pants, fake animal print; chain mail and clothes made out of funky new fabrics

Revolutionary new fabrics reflected the interest in the “space age” and social causes Ensemble, 1967, Emanuel Ungaro

Animal print ensembles, 1966/1967, Designed by Rudy Gernreich

Young people used clothes, music, and lifestyle to express new found freedoms Beatles and Rolling Stones changed music

Manuel: The Beatles, 1967 Esquire magazine calls the era “A Peacock Revolution for Men”

Menswear had greater color and imagination than had been seen since the 18th century

Nashville’s Manuel & John Lennon Manuel design’s suits for The Beatle’s Sergeant Pepper album

Nashville’s own beloved Manuel designed iconic looks for Elvis in the 1950’s & 1960’s

Manuel’s current studio and store: 800 Broadway

•

Comeback suit, 1968

Widely copied collection of dresses by Yves Saint Laurent in 1960’s

Geometric lines were inspired by Mondrian Laurent saw that the flat planes of the shift dress were ideal for working with color blocks

Piet Mondrian, Composition with Red Blue, and Yellow, 1930. oil on canvas

1960s Pop Art Inspires Fashion

Dress, ca. 1966–67 American

Disposable paper dresses printed with allover pattern of

Campbell Soup cans in black, red, and gold

Campbell's Soup I (1968) Andy Warhol’s Pop Art

Yves Saint Laurent : “The Sun King of Fashion” 1966: The “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit for women

• Created in 1966 by famous couturier

• The first of its kind to earn attention in the fashion world and in popular culture

• Pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women, as well as the use of power suits and the pantsuit in modern-day society

• Seen by many as having empowered women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power

• The trouser suit was now suitable for society lunches and elegant soirees

• This suit has continued to influence fashion designers' collections through the 2000s.

Le Smoking Suit Laurent said” I have been strongly influenced by photographs of Marlene Dietrich in a

man’s suit. A woman who dresses like a man-in tuxedo, or blazer-has to be infinitely more feminine in order to wear clothes which were not meant for her. She must be pretty and

refined down to the smallest detail.”

Marlene Dietrich dressed as a man in Morocco Le Smoking-- the suit for women

1970’s Fashion:

Dubbed “The era of fashion that never should have happened” or “The decade that style forgot”

• Unisex clothing of the 1970’s inspired by changing gender roles

• Clear differences between men’s and women’s fashions had eroded

• Leisure wear and blue jeans for all classes and all occasions

• Pantsuits • Blue jeans • Tee shirts • Tailored shirts • Sweatshirt • Blazers • Running suits • Sneakers

"Charlie's Angels" (1976) - Kate Jackson, Jaclyn Smith, Farrah Fawcett

"Charlie's Angels" (1976) - Cheryl Ladd

1976) - Jaclyn Smith, Cheryl Ladd, Shelley Hack

Glam: 1970’s Rule-Breaker David Bowie

• US rock-and-roll beat, mixed with camp and stylized showmanship, both a visual movement and a musical genre

• Defined by: theatricality, androgyny, and glamour. The antithesis of the hippy-dominated late 1960’s

• Introduced the fragmented, anything-goes fashion of the 1970’

Musicians and Fabulous Fashion Michael Jackson & The Jackson 5

Wool “Power Suit”, 1980s

Giorgio Armani Power pantsuits, 1985-1989 strong and simple shapes Cross-pollination for women of glamour and high finance

1980’s oversized: BIG hair!

Madonna

•

• A beautiful body intimated success in all areas

• Self-realization in the 70s

• Self-shaping in the 80’s

• Beautiful body: strong, disciplined, athletic

• Women wanted to be strong and healthy

• No longer the untouchable woman of the 50’s, nor the emaciated Twiggy of the sixties, nor the cocaine addicts of the 70s

• The ideal, high-powered woman now knew what she wanted, she was ambitious, but at the same time distinctly feminine.

• Look what’s back…the corset!!!! But, it’s just for fun and radical style this time around!

Blonde Ambition Tour, 1990

1980’s = Age of Exercise! Aerobics and Jane Fonda

Body-conscious dressing and state-of-the-art stretch fabrics inspired and facilitated the exercise craze of the late 70’s and 80’s

1980s-90s Icon: Princess Diana

July 29th, 1981 Considered the most spectacular wedding of all time

1990s Versace. Veneration of celebrities within the fashion industry Our fashion “models”= The cult of celebrity

Dress, Evening, for Tina Turner 1996, Gianni Versace

Liz Hurley’s Versace

Safety-Pin Dress

Evening Gown Spring/Summer, 1996

Culmination of the Gap Revolution: Everyday fashion and couture radically worn together Sharon Stone, Academy Awards, Gap Turtleneck, 1996 Gap men's shirt and a lavender Vera Wang skirt, 1998

Stella McCartney (1971-, British)

Fashion for NOW

Uses no leather or fur Outspoken vegetarian

Organic beauty line Melds fashion and environmentalism

Aesthetic quality first; sustainable design second Wearable clothing: flirtatious; sexy; comfortable

Inspired by the Renaissance past and the present

The Art of Design, & Thievery

Faith Hill 2013; Kimberly Perry, 2012

Evening Gown, Madame Gres, Fall/Winter 1954-55. Contemporary design steals from the 1930’s stealing from Ancient Greece

1920s and 1960s serve as design inspiration

CMA Awards, 2013

Inspired by Botticelli?

Taylor is wearing an Elie Saab gown, Jimmy Choo shoes, and Lorraine Schwartz jewels

Dior’s Zemure, part of the. Dior H-Line Collection, inspired by riding habit, 1954

The Future of Fashion: Recycling & Sustainability

Chapter Headings

• 1. I Have Enough Clothing to Open a Store

• 2. How America Lost it’s Shirts • 3. High and Low Fashion make

Friends • 4. Fast Fashion • 5. The Afterlife of Cheap Clothes • 6. Sewing is a Good Job, A Great

Job • 7. China and the End of Cheap

Fashion • 8. Make, Alter, and Mend • 9. The Future of Fashion

Current Trends for Present fashion: Fast Fashion

• A radical method of retailing that has

broken away from seasonal selling and puts out new inventory constantly throughout the year

• Typically priced much lower than it’s competitors

• Fast fashion retailers have almost twice the average profit margin of their more traditional competitors

• The fast fashion industry produces staggering quantities of cheap, poorly made, generic clothes

• The huge amount of consumption of fast

fashion is having an enormous toll on the environment, as well as the underpaid, overworked laborers in foreign countries who produce it

Fast Fashion is fueled by: Globalism: A global economy and culture Internet: An instantaneous exchange of information which leads to faster and faster changes in clothing styles and the ability of the consumer to find new trends at the cheapest prices

A Final Look at the Beauty of Fashion that Equals Fine Art