102811 cotton ravic hand ran
TRANSCRIPT
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COTTON, FIBER, FINISHES &PERFORMANCE
Duraisamy Ravichandran,Director - Textile Testing
Intertek Consumer Goods, NA
October 28, 2011
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Performance Claims
Moisture Management
Wicking
Antimicrobial
UV Protection
Easy Care / Wrinkle Free
Water resistance / Water proof
Air permeability
Water Vapor Transmission
Soil Release (Stain release / Stain resistance)
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Moisture Management (MMT)
Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics : AATCC 195 -2010
To evaluate the dynamic liquid transport properties of textiles in three dimensions:
1.Absorption Rate: Moisture absorbing time of the fabrics inner and outer
surfaces
2. One-way Transportation Capability: Liquid moisture on-way transfer from
fabric’s inner surface to outer surface
3. Spreading Rate: Speed of liquid
moisture spreading on fabric’s inner
and outer surface
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MMT: Principle
The liquid moisture management properties of a textile are evaluated by placing
a fabric specimen between two horizontal (upper and lower) electrical sensors
each with seven concentric pins.
A predetermined amount of test solution that aids the measurement of electrical
conductivity changes are dropped onto the center of the upward-facing testspecimen surface.
The test solution is free to move in three directions: radial spreading on the top
surface, movement through the specimen from top surface to the bottom surface,
and radial spreading on the bottom surface of the specimen.
During the test, changes in electrical resistance of
specimen are measured and recorded.
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Apply the test solution onthe inner surface
(synthetic sweat)
Spread on fabric’s inner and
outer surfaces
Transfer the solutionvertically
Mechanism
Upper concentric
moisture sensors
Lower concentric
moisture sensors
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Grading Table
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Uses and Limitations
Liquid moisture transports like human perspiration can be
attributed.
X Does not relate to gaseous moisture transport from body or
tactile properties that influence human perceptions of comfort
X Does not give an overall rating of comfort of a garment or
textile. It is a combination of absorption, wicking, liquid and
vapor movement that can be related to the environment ,
garment fit, style in which the textile product is to be used
and worn by.
X Not applicable to coated, laminated, or complex fabric
constructions, thicker fabrics with high absorbency.
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Wicking
Evaluates the wicking ability of vertically or horizontally aligned test
specimens, exposed to distilled or deionized water over a period of time, where
wicking is influenced by gravity.
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - AATCC TM 197-2011
Horizontal Wicking of Textiles - AATCC TM198-
2011
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Vertical Wicking - AATCC TM 197-2011
• The rate (distance per unit of time) liquid travels along
and/or through a vertical fabric specimen is visually
observed, manually timed and recorded at specified
intervals.
•Option A: Measure time at a given distance
Should wick to minimum of 20 ±1 mm in < than 5.0 ± 0.1
min
Total time taken to wick 150 ± 1mm distance is recordedand has to be under 30.0 ± 0.1 min
Record time and distance and report for the specimen
tested.
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Vertical Wicking cont..
Option B: Measure distance at a given time
Test is continued only if fabric wicks unto any distance
in 10.0 ± 0.1 min
Time under 30.0 ± 0.1 min to wick through a maximum
distance or the end of specimen is recorded and
reported.
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Uses and Limitations
Influenced by fiber content, fabric construction,
mechanical or chemical processing or a combination of
these.
Results does not duplicate an end-product’s exposure
during wear.
Not a measure of comfort which is beyond the scope of
testing
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Horizontal Wicking
AATCC TM 198 -2011
Evaluates the wicking ability of horizontally aligned
test specimens to distilled or deionized water
The rate (area per unit of time) liquid travels through a
fabric specimen is visually observed, manually timed
and recorded at specified intervals.
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Horizontal alignment test configuration
Dispense 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of water
from the 10 ± 1 mm height onto the
center of the 100 ± 3 mm marked
circle
The test is terminated when the
water reaches the 100 ± 3 mm circle.
Record the distance the liquid hasspread in the length and width
direction of the fabric and the time
elapsed
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Uses and Limitations
This method is primarily applicable to fabrics that absorb
the full volume of the test liquid, without pooling on the
surface or allowing dripping
The movement of liquid within a fabric may be influenced
by fiber content, fabric construction, mechanical or chemical
processing or a combination of
These not a measure of comfort which is beyond the scope
of this method
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Antimicrobial Test
Most common tests are, Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:
Assessment of, AATCC TM 100 – 2004
Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile
Materials: Parallel Streak Method, AATCC TM 147 -2004
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Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:
Assessment of
AATCC TM 100 -2004
Quantitative Evaluation of degree of Antibacterial
activity
The method tests for both bacteriostatic (growth-
inhibiting) and bactericidal (bacteria-killing) properties
A fabric is said to have good antibacterial property
based on the % reduction of bacterial activity within a
known colony of bacteria.
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AATCC TM 100 -2004, Principle
Swatches of test and control textile materials are tested
qualitatively for antibacterial activity by AATCC Method
147,Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials:
Parallel Streak Method. Those showing activity are
evaluated quantitatively.
Test and control swatches are inoculated with the test
organisms. After incubation, the bacteria are eluted from the
swatches by shaking in known amounts of neutralizing
solution.
The number of bacteria present in this liquid is
determined, and the percentage reduction by the treated
specimen is calculated.
Incubation Temp: 37°C
Incubation time: 48 hrs
Agar Medium: Nutrient
Agar
Test Culture:Staphylococcus aureus
(ATCC 6538)
Klebsiella pneumonia
(ATCC 4352)
No. of Test Specimen: 5
pieces / circular / @ 4.8
cm in diameter with 1mL inoculums per trial
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Results and Interpretations
% reduction of each bacteria type is
determined to know the effectiveness
of the finish .
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Limitations
The test can become cumbersome if the test
fabric doesn't readily absorb liquids
(hydrophobic).
Not Suitable for materials which tends to be
encapsulated and prevents diffusion of the
antibacterial neutralizing substances
Any top of finished fabrics (shows
antimicrobial activity in original state).
A tib t i l A ti it A t f T til
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Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile
Materials: Parallel Streak Method
AATCC TM 147 – 2004
Qualitative method performed to know the presence of
antibacterial activity
Quick Method (done over a 24-h period), cheap, simple,
and well-defined.
Used as a primary test before AATCC TM 100 isperformed and once sample passes TM 100, subsequent
batches (lots) are checked by TM 147
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Evaluation of Textiles – Bacterial
Test Organisms - Staphylococcus aureus and
Klebsiella pneumoniae –
Test material is placed across 5 parallel streaks ofthe microorganism on a highly nutritive growth
substrate.
Incubate at 37 ± 2°C for 18-24 h.
If effective treatment is present a zone of inhibition
and contact inhibition are visible
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Limitations
AATCC TM147 cannot be used to measure the relative
efficacy of one antimicrobial versus another because
antimicrobials diffuse through agar at different rates or not at all.
Since the amount of antimicrobial present is usually based on
the weight of the fabric, a light fabric may not show activity
despite being appropriately treated, and diffusion seen in the
test does not represent antimicrobial behavior in actual use.
The method provides a nice visual demonstration of inhibition,
but also engenders confusion (due to subjectivity in evaluating
the contact inhibition)
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Water Resistance / Water Proof
Most common tests are,
Water Resistance(Rain test) AATCC TM 35 - 2006
Water Proof (Hydrostatic Pressure test) AATCC TM 127
- 2008
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Rain Test AATCC 35 -2006
Resistance to the penetration of water by impact,
and thus can be used to predict the probable rain
penetration resistance of fabrics
A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is
sprayed with water for 5 min under controlled
conditions. The blotter is then reweighed to
determine the amount of water which has leaked
through the specimen during the test
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Evaluation and Reporting
Water penetration is indicated by the increase in mass of the blotting paper
during the 5 min test period is calculated.
The average for the three test specimens is reported.
Individual determinations or average values of over 5.0 gm
may be simply reported to 5 + g or > 5 g.
For US Customs, rain wear should pass requirement of 2 feet for 2 minutes
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Water Proof AATCC TM 127 - 2008
Performed using Textest FX3000 Hydrostatic Head Tester
(Option 2).
Used to measure the resistance of a fabric to the penetration
of water under hydrostatic pressure
One surface of the test specimen is subjected to a hydrostatic
pressure, increasing at a constant rate, until three points of
leakage appear on its other surface
Option 2 (Hydrostatic Head Tester): Uses an electronically
controlled pump to apply hydrostatic pressure at 60mbar/min.
Distilled water or De ionized water is used @21±2 deg
Celsius
Wrinkle Resistance / Easy Care / Durable
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Wrinkle Resistance / Easy Care / Durable
Press
Most common test methods ar e,
Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home
Laundering, AATCC TM 124 – 2010
Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after
Repeated Home Laundering, AATCC TM 143 - 2010
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Procedure
Samples are washed and dried 5 times as per care
instructions provided, then conditioned and evaluated for,
fabric surface smoothness and garment seam
smoothness
Evaluated with out ironing the garments or textile fabrics.
Assessment is performed against the respective
photographic replicas and ratings are provided incomparison to the replicas viewed.
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Evaluation
Appearance board and
room used for evaluation
should be painted Grey
Color.
Two F96 Cool white
Fluorescent lamps should
be used for evaluation
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Fabric Smoothness AATCC TM 124 - 2010
SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very
smooth, pressed, finished appearance.
SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica.
Smooth, finished appearance.
SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica.Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance.
SA-3 Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica.
Mussed, nonpressed appearance.
SA-2 Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica.
Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.
SA-1 Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica.
Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled
appearance.
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Seam Smoothness, AATCC 88B - 2010
For Single needle stitches: For Double needle seams
C R t ti AATCC TM 88C 2010
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Crease Retention AATCC TM 88C - 2010
Grade 5 – Best, Grade 1 - Poor
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Ultraviolet Protection
Transmittance or Blocking of Ultraviolet Radiation through
Fabrics, AATCC 183 -2010
Standard Practice for Preparation of Textiles Prior toUltraviolet (UV) Transmission Testing , ASTM 6544
Standard Guide for Labeling of UV-Protective Textiles,
ASTM D6603
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AATCC 183 – 2010
Test method to determine UV blocking or transmittance through textile fabrics
The transmission of ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) through a specimen is
measured on a spectrophotometer or spectro radiometer at known wavelengthintervals.
Specimens are tested in Dry and Wet state. Mean UPF values, Transmittance
and Blocking are obtained from the Spectrophotometer.
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ASTM D6544
UPF is the value to be placed on a garment label needs to be the lowest
protection value expected during consumer use over a two-year period
For Swimwear: 40 Washes + 100 Hrs Weathering + Chlorinated Pool Water
For All Other Apparel: 40 Washes + 100 Hrs Weathering
Specimens are then tested as per AATCC 183 – 2010.
One time use garments are tested in original state alone.
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UPF Label
ASTM D6603 standard guidelines for UPF labeling, regulated by FTC
The lowest rating of either the original or prepared specimens are
regarded as UPF rating.
The UPF value gives you an indication of how good a fabric is at blocking
UVR. A fabric with a UPF of 20 will only allow 1/20th of the UVR to pass
through it, a fabric with a UPF of 50 will only allow 1/50th of the UVR to pass
through it
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Air Permeability
Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
, ASTM D737 -04 (2008) e1
The rate of air flow passing perpendicularly through aknown area of fabric is adjusted to obtain a prescribed air
pressure differential between the two fabric surfaces. From
this rate of air flow, the air permeability of the fabric is
determined
Values are in cm3/s/cm2 and in inch-pound units asft3/min/ft2 rounded to 3 significant digits
F t t id
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Factors to consider
Construction and Finishing of fabrics
Yarn twist, Yarn size and cover factor. (can improve or decrease)
Aids in monitoring of the manufacturing process of
specialty fabrics
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Water Vapor Transmission
Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of
Materials, ASTM E96 – 2010
It is the measurement of the amount of moisturevapor in grams that pass (breathe or permeate)
through 1 sq.m of fabric in 24 hours at specified
temperature and humidity
Water Method is commonly used to test this propertywith test conditions Procedure D: Temp: 32.2ºC and
50% RH
P d D
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Procedure D:
Test Dish : Non corroding, light weight impermeable to water and vapor
Test liquid : Distilled water
Test Chamber: Capable to maintaining controlled and even temperature, RH
and with horizontal even surface.
Balance: Good sensitive balance that can weight as close as 1%
Thickness measuring gage: Good with an accuracy of 1% of the reading.
Fill the water upto ¾ from test specimen, seal the specimen, then weigh the
contents before placing in controlled atmosphere. Periodically weigh and note
down the values to calculate the gram of water vapor transmitted through an
area of fabric in 24 hrs of time.
Oil R ll
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Oil Repellency
Hydrocarbon Resistance test AATCC TM 118 - 2007
To detect the presence of a fluoro chemical finish, by
evaluating the fabric’s resistance to wetting by a selected
series of liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions.
Drops of standard test liquids, consisting of a selected
series of hydrocarbons with varying surface tensions, are
placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting,
wicking and contact angle.
The oil repellency grade is the highest numbered test liquid
which does not wet the fabric surface
P d
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Procedure
Oils with varying surface tension are used.
Two specimens are tested
Begin with lowest numbered liquid, at five
locations.
Observe the drops for 30 ± 2 s at 45° angle
If no wicking or wetting, proceed to next oil
and so on until wetting of the fabric surface is
observed.
Evaluation
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Evaluation
The grade is expressed as the integer value of the pass test liquid immediately
prior to the fail test liquid
A = Passes; clear well-rounded drop
B = Borderline pass; rounding drop with partial darkening
C = Fails; wicking apparent and/or complete wetting
D = Fails; complete wetting
S il l
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Soil release
Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method, AATCC TM 130 -2010
This test method is designed to measure the ability of fabrics to
release oily stains during home laundering.
This test method is primarily for use by fabric finishers to
evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual
use
A stain is applied by force to a test specimen. The stained fabricis then laundered and the residual stain rated on a scale from 5 to
1 by comparison with a stain release replica showing a graduated
series of stains
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Evaluation
Mount the stain release replica on the mounting board, with the center of
the standard 114 ± 3 cm (45 ± 1 in.) from the floor.
Place the test specimen flat with face up in the center of the non-glare
black topped table with one edge of the table touching the mounting board.The fabric shall be rotated to be viewed from the direction which produces
the lowest rating.
Viewing distance shall be 76 ± 3 cm (30 ± 1 in.) from the back mounting
board, with the eye at 157 ± 15 cm (62 ± 6 in.) from the floor. The rater
should stand directly in front of the specimen.
Varying the viewing angle either horizontally or vertically can affect
grades obtained on some fabrics
R ti d G d
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Reporting and Grades
Calculate the average of 4 grades for each fabric, (2 judgments
on each of 2 specimens), to nearest 0.1. This is the unit of
measure for this test method
Grade 5 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 5
Grade 4 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 4
Grade 3 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 3
Grade 2 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 2
Grade 1 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 1
Grade 5 represents the best stain removal and Grade 1 the poorest
stain removal
General
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General
Durability of functional finishes are checked by extended
laundry tests.
Additional tests to confirm the safety of the product has to
be performed to ensure product compliance to RSL.
All performance based claims has to be substantiated
through testing.
One or more of the finishes can be combined to add value
to the product
Questions ?