1,000 ideas from neckline to waistline, pockets to pleats-rockport publishers (2011).pdf

(Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:3

(Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:2 (RAY)

001-009_C62448.indd 3 5/9/11 4:56:52 PM

fashion details

1,000 IDEAS FROM NECKLINE TO WAISTLINE,

POCKETS TO PLEATS

(Text) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:3


001-009_C62448.indd 3 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM

(Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:4(RAY)

001-009_C62448.indd 4 5/9/11 4:56:52 PM

Copyright © 2011 by maomao publicationsFirst published in 2010 in the United States of America byRockport Publishers, a member of Quayside Publishing Group100 Cummings CenterSuite 406-LBeverly, MA 01915-6101Telephone: (978) 282-9590Fax: (978) 283-2742www.rockpub.com

ISBN-13: 978-1-59253-716-7ISBN-10: 1-59253-716-2

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Publisher: Paco AsensioEditorial coordination: Anja Llorella OriolText edition: Natalio Martín ArroyoArt director: Emma Termes PareraLayout: Esperanza Escudero PinoEnglish translation: Cillero & de Motta

Editorial Project: maomao publicationsVia Laietana, 32 4th fl. of. 10408003 Barcelona, EspañaTel. : +34 93 268 80 88Fax : +34 93 317 42 08www.maomaopublications.com

Printed in China

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

maomao affirms that it possesses all the necessary rights for the publication of this material and has duly paid all royalties related to the authors’ and photographers’ rights. maomao also affirms that it has violated no property rights and has respected common law, all authors’ rights and other rights that could be relevant. Finally, maomao affirms that this book contains no obscene nor slanderous material.

Whole or partial reproduction of this book without editor authorization infringes reserved rights; any utilization must be previously requested.

(Text) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:4(RAY)

001-009_C62448.indd 4 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM

Digital edition: 978-1-6105-8143-1

Softcover edition: 978-1-5925-3716-7

www.rockpub.com

www.maomaopublications.com

10

6

360

92

152

288

224

184

326

260



001-009_C62448.indd 5 5/9/11 4:56:52 PM

Collars and neCklines

Pleats and flounCes

a small detail makes a big differenCe

gathering and draPing

shoulders and sleeves

deCorative aPPliqués

WaistlinesseWing details

PoCkets, ziPPers, and buttons

biograPhies

contents

(Text) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:5


001-009_C62448.indd 5 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM

(RAY) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:6

001-009_C62448.indd 6 5/9/11 4:56:52 PM

6 Fashion Details

(Text)

The saying that small details make a big difference is certainly not new. We are all aware of the significance. In fact, in any differential marketing strategy, a product is special and different from the rest for those details that make it unique. In fashion, the same rules apply. Proof of this are those details that are now trademarks for many fashion houses such as the Chanel neckline by the French designer, which Karl Lagerfeld has reinvented year after year, and the flounces patented by the prestigious Spanish designers Victorio & Lucchino that they call “caracola.” There are also those details that have become icons of an era, such as the Gaultier’s cone-shaped corset created for Madonna’s Blond Ambition Tour, which was an emblematic symbol of fashion in the early nineties.

The history of costume shows us the important role that details have played in fashion over the years. For centuries, they have defined the distinctive features of each period and the differentiation between social classes and groups. Each moment has contributed new elements that represent an infinite source of inspiration for designers all over the world. The magic of fashion is its consistent ability to evolve, combining new materials with more traditional materials, inventing and reviving past fashions. It is not an easy task to reinterpret elements from other times and cultures, however, with careful research, many designers have been captivated by past practices and have managed to reinterpret them. Details from former times are constantly reappearing on international runways such as the Baroque Medici collar

A small detail makes a big difference


001-009_C62448.indd 6 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM



001-009_C62448.indd 7 5/9/11 4:56:53 PM



001-009_C62448.indd 7 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM


001-009_C62448.indd 8 5/9/11 4:56:53 PM

8 Fashion Details

(Text)

and the Renaissance ruffled sleeves. Other details come from far-off places, made with techniques such as Japanese origami or embroidery with designation of origin, such as traditional Paraguayan Ñandutí lace or French knots.

In this book we visit fashion weeks in New York, Paris, Milan, London, Madrid, Copenhagen, Berlin, Mexico, Lisbon, Moscow, Tokyo, and many more, with collec-tions featuring both classic and more revolutionary styles, through which we will show international trends and the most eye-catching details in current fashion. Designers such as Manish Arora, Maison Martin Margiela, Tsumori Chisato, and Kris Van Assche are featured along with some of the major names in fashion. In addition, new hopes from first class design schools bring an air of freshness to the amazing talent featured in this project. In these times of imminent globalization, the fashion industry researches and becomes immersed in the pursuit for ethnic and cultural values salvaged from remote civilizations. For this reason, we have included a selection of designers from over twenty different countries whose designs and the care with which the details are made are an example of the cultural richness that we have yet to discover and the contribution that intercultural exchange can offer a market such as the fashion industry.

Experience Fashion Details—a universe of details cat-egorized into eight chapters that invite you to take a fresh look at the world of fashion and all of its endless possibilities.


001-009_C62448.indd 8 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM



001-009_C62448.indd 9 5/9/11 4:56:54 PM



001-009_C62448.indd 9 5/9/11 4:54:33 PM

(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:10(RAY)

010-091_24950.indd 10 5/9/11 11:37:41 AM

10 Fashion Details

(Text)


A garment’s neckline or collar is often the secret weapon to turn a simple garment into a sublime garment, which also gives the wearer one personality or another: casual, sensual, romantic, or elegant. Many of them are revived and changed according to the era. A perfect example is the halterneck, which was a runaway success for evening gowns in the thirties; then it became popular in the seventies by labels such as Halston, and at the start of this century it regained strength again. This chapter offers an extensive selection of collars and necklines

used in the latest international collections. We will take a look at well-defined models, which in themselves are the key to the whole outfit, and others that are complemented with appliqués and accessories that make the outfit stand out. They are all here, from the classic round necks, V-necks, crew necks, and turtle- necks, to boat necks, mao necks, asymmetrical, strapless, etc. Explore endless interpretations of necklines and elaborate designs that convert collars into works of art, architectural pieces, or divine jewels.


010-091_24950.indd 10 5/9/11 10:53:16 AM

(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:10


010-091_24950.indd 11 5/9/11 11:37:42 AM


Ana

Loc

king

. S/S

201

1. C

ibel

es M

adrid

Fas

hion

Wee

k.

(Text)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:10

(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:11(RAY)

010-091_24950.indd 11 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

001 002 003

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 12 5/9/11 11:37:45 AM

12 Fashion Details

(Text)

AmericAn Pérez SpAin

The SwediSh School of TexTileS SWEdEn

AnjArA SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 12 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

004 005 006

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 13 5/9/11 11:37:48 AM

Collars and Necklines 13

(Text)

AnjArA SpAin





010-091_24950.indd 13 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

007 008 009


010-091_24950.indd 14 5/9/11 11:37:52 AM

14 Fashion Details

(Text)

eliSA PAlomino SpAin

TSumori chiSATo JApAn

BeBA’S cloSeT SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 14 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

010 011 012

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os



010-091_24950.indd 15 5/9/11 11:37:55 AM


(Text)

mAniSh ArorA indiA

BorA AkSu TurkEy

VicTorio & lucchino SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 15 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

013 014 015

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


010-091_24950.indd 16 5/9/11 11:37:59 AM

16 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnA locking SpAin

mAniSh ArorA indiA



010-091_24950.indd 16 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

016 017 018

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os



010-091_24950.indd 17 5/9/11 11:38:04 AM


(Text)

dimiTri iTAly

mAniSh ArorA indiA

AnA locking SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 17 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

019 020 021

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 18 5/9/11 11:38:08 AM

18 Fashion Details

(Text)


lemoniez SpAin

cATi Serrà SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 18 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

022 023 024



010-091_24950.indd 19 5/9/11 11:38:13 AM


(Text)

mArTA monToTo SpAin

cATi Serrà SpAin

mAlini rAmAni uSA/indiA



010-091_24950.indd 19 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

025 026 027

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 20 5/9/11 11:38:18 AM

20 Fashion Details

(Text)

BiBiAn Blue SpAin


dimiTri iTAly


010-091_24950.indd 20 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

028 029 030



010-091_24950.indd 21 5/9/11 11:38:22 AM


(Text)

BohenTo SpAin


Ali chAriSmA indonESiA



010-091_24950.indd 21 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

031 032 033

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 22 5/9/11 11:38:26 AM

22 Fashion Details

(Text)

BohenTo SpAin

mArTA monToTo SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 22 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

034 035 036



010-091_24950.indd 23 5/9/11 11:38:29 AM


(Text)

mArTin lAmoThe SpAin

chArlie le mindu FrAncE

AilAnTo SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 23 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

037 038 039

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


010-091_24950.indd 24 5/9/11 11:38:35 AM

24 Fashion Details

(Text)

mAniSh ArorA indiA

ek ThongPrASerT THAilAnd

mAniSh ArorA indiA


010-091_24950.indd 24 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

040 041 042

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti



010-091_24950.indd 25 5/9/11 11:38:40 AM


(Text)

BohenTo SpAin

mAl-Aimée FrAncE

ericA zAionTS ukrAinE



010-091_24950.indd 25 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

043 044 045

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 26 5/9/11 11:38:44 AM

26 Fashion Details

(Text)

g.V.g.V. JApAn


juAnjo oliVA SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 26 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

046 047 048

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© Is

rael

Esp

arza

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 27 5/9/11 11:38:46 AM


(Text)


mAlAfAchA BrAnd MExico




010-091_24950.indd 27 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

049 050 051


010-091_24950.indd 28 5/9/11 11:38:51 AM

28 Fashion Details

(Text)

AlenA AkhmAdullinA ruSSiA

diAnA dorAdo coloMbiA

QASimi uniTEd ArAb EMirATES


010-091_24950.indd 28 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

052 053 054

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 29 5/9/11 11:38:55 AM


(Text)


idA SjöSTedT SWEdEn




010-091_24950.indd 29 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

055 056 057

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 30 5/9/11 11:38:59 AM

30 Fashion Details

(Text)



A.f. VAndeVorST bElgiuM


010-091_24950.indd 30 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

058 059 060



010-091_24950.indd 31 5/9/11 11:39:03 AM


(Text)


cATi Serrà SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 31 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

061 062 063

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 32 5/9/11 11:39:06 AM

32 Fashion Details

(Text)

jeAn//PhilliP dEnMArk


ewA i wAllA SWEdEn


010-091_24950.indd 32 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

064 065 066



010-091_24950.indd 33 5/9/11 11:39:11 AM


(Text)

elenA PrzhonSkAyA ukrAinE

mAyA hAnSen SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 33 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

067 068 069


010-091_24950.indd 34 5/9/11 11:39:16 AM

34 Fashion Details

(Text)


VASSilioS koSTeTSoS grEEcE

cATi Serrà SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 34 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

070 071 072



010-091_24950.indd 35 5/9/11 11:39:21 AM


(Text)

mAyA hAnSen SpAin

AnA locking SpAin

nereA lurgAin SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 35 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

073 074 075


010-091_24950.indd 36 5/9/11 11:39:25 AM

36 Fashion Details

(Text)

mArTin lAmoThe SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 36 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

076 077 078



010-091_24950.indd 37 5/9/11 11:39:29 AM


(Text)


nereA lurgAin SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 37 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

079 080 081

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


010-091_24950.indd 38 5/9/11 11:39:34 AM

38 Fashion Details

(Text)

ion fiz SpAin

AilAnTo SpAin

mAl-Aimée FrAncE


010-091_24950.indd 38 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

082 083 084

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti



010-091_24950.indd 39 5/9/11 11:39:40 AM


(Text)

mAl-Aimée FrAncE

ion fiz SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 39 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

085 086 087


010-091_24950.indd 40 5/9/11 11:39:44 AM

40 Fashion Details

(Text)


deSignSkolen kolding dEnMArk

STAS loPATkin ruSSiA


010-091_24950.indd 40 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

088 089 090

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 41 5/9/11 11:39:47 AM


(Text)



ewA i wAllA SWEdEn



010-091_24950.indd 41 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

091 092 093


010-091_24950.indd 42 5/9/11 11:39:52 AM

42 Fashion Details

(Text)



nereA lurgAin SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 42 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

094 095 096

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os



010-091_24950.indd 43 5/9/11 11:39:57 AM


(Text)


mAniSh ArorA indiA




010-091_24950.indd 43 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

097 098 099


010-091_24950.indd 44 5/9/11 11:40:02 AM

44 Fashion Details

(Text)



BiBiAn Blue SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 44 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

100 101 102



010-091_24950.indd 45 5/9/11 11:40:08 AM


(Text)


AgAnoVich SErbiA/uk

AnnA miminoShVili ruSSiA



010-091_24950.indd 45 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

103 104 105


010-091_24950.indd 46 5/9/11 11:40:13 AM

46 Fashion Details

(Text)

lemoniez SpAin

AnTonio AlVArAdo SpAin

BohenTo SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 46 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

106 107 108

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 47 5/9/11 11:40:16 AM


(Text)






010-091_24950.indd 47 5/9/11 10:53:17 AM

109 110 111


010-091_24950.indd 48 5/9/11 11:40:22 AM

48 Fashion Details

(Text)

BohenTo SpAin

AilAnTo SpAin

dimiTri iTAly


010-091_24950.indd 48 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

112 113 114

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 49 5/9/11 11:40:26 AM


(Text)


AnjArASpAin

dimiTri iTAly



010-091_24950.indd 49 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

115 116 117


010-091_24950.indd 50 5/9/11 11:40:30 AM

50 Fashion Details

(Text)

BohenTo SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 50 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

118 119 120

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



010-091_24950.indd 51 5/9/11 11:40:34 AM


(Text)

juliuS JApAn





010-091_24950.indd 51 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

121 122 123


010-091_24950.indd 52 5/9/11 11:34:38 AM

52 Fashion Details

(Text)


ASher leVine uSA



010-091_24950.indd 52 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

124 125 126

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 53 5/9/11 11:34:41 AM


(Text)


SPijkerS en SPijkerS THE nETHErlAndS




010-091_24950.indd 53 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

127 128 129

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 54 5/9/11 11:34:44 AM

54 Fashion Details

(Text)





010-091_24950.indd 54 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

130 131 132

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os



010-091_24950.indd 55 5/9/11 11:34:48 AM


(Text)

BohenTo SpAin


mAniSh ArorA indiA



010-091_24950.indd 55 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

133 134 135


010-091_24950.indd 56 5/9/11 11:34:53 AM

56 Fashion Details

(Text)

j jS lee korEA

BohenTo SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 56 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

136 137 138

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 57 5/9/11 11:34:56 AM


(Text)

mAyA hAnSen SpAin

j jS lee korEA

idA SjöSTedT SWEdEn



010-091_24950.indd 57 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

139 140 141


010-091_24950.indd 58 5/9/11 11:35:00 AM

58 Fashion Details

(Text)



mAyA hAnSen SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 58 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

142 143 144

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti



010-091_24950.indd 59 5/9/11 11:35:05 AM


(Text)


mAl-Aimée FrAncE

mAyA hAnSen SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 59 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

145 146 147


010-091_24950.indd 60 5/9/11 11:35:09 AM

60 Fashion Details

(Text)

ASher leVine uSA




010-091_24950.indd 60 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

148 149 150



010-091_24950.indd 61 5/9/11 11:35:13 AM


(Text)

ASher leVine uSA

cArloS díez SpAin

ion fiz SpAin



010-091_24950.indd 61 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

151 152 153

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 62 5/9/11 11:35:17 AM

62 Fashion Details

(Text)

cAmillA norrBAck FinlAnd

SinPATron SpAin

ricArdo dourAdo porTugAl


010-091_24950.indd 62 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

154 155 156

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 63 5/9/11 11:35:19 AM


(Text)

ewA i wAllA SWEdEn

kArloTA lASPAlAS SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 63 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

157 158 159

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 64 5/9/11 11:35:23 AM

64 Fashion Details

(Text)

juliuS JApAn

georgiA hArdinge uk



010-091_24950.indd 64 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

160 161 162



010-091_24950.indd 65 5/9/11 11:35:27 AM


(Text)

hArrihAlim indonESiA

ASger juel lArSen dEnMArk

mArk fAST cAnAdA



010-091_24950.indd 65 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

163 164 165

© P

atric

e St

able


010-091_24950.indd 66 5/9/11 11:35:31 AM

66 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SpAin


kriS VAn ASSche bElgiuM


010-091_24950.indd 66 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

166 167 168



010-091_24950.indd 67 5/9/11 11:35:35 AM


(Text)



BorA AkSu TurkEy



010-091_24950.indd 67 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

169 170 171


010-091_24950.indd 68 5/9/11 11:35:40 AM

68 Fashion Details

(Text)



mArk fAST cAnAdA


010-091_24950.indd 68 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

172 173 174



010-091_24950.indd 69 5/9/11 11:35:43 AM


(Text)






010-091_24950.indd 69 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

175 176 177

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 70 5/9/11 11:35:47 AM

70 Fashion Details

(Text)


juliuS JApAn

j jS lee korEA


010-091_24950.indd 70 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

178 179 180



010-091_24950.indd 71 5/9/11 11:35:51 AM


(Text)

AdA zAndiTon uk





010-091_24950.indd 71 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

181 182 183

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 72 5/9/11 11:35:54 AM

72 Fashion Details

(Text)





010-091_24950.indd 72 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

184 185 186

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 73 5/9/11 11:35:57 AM


(Text)

j jS lee korEA





010-091_24950.indd 73 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

187 188 189

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 74 5/9/11 11:36:02 AM

74 Fashion Details

(Text)

mArk fAST cAnAdA


Tim VAn STeenBergen bElgiuM


010-091_24950.indd 74 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

190 191 192

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os



010-091_24950.indd 75 5/9/11 11:36:08 AM


(Text)

mAniSh ArorA indiA

VlAdiSlAV AkSenoV ruSSiA

mArk fAST cAnAdA



010-091_24950.indd 75 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

193 194 195

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 76 5/9/11 11:36:11 AM

76 Fashion Details

(Text)

mArk fAST cAnAdA




010-091_24950.indd 76 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

196 197 198

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



010-091_24950.indd 77 5/9/11 11:36:15 AM


(Text)


juliuS JApAn




010-091_24950.indd 77 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

199 200 201

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


010-091_24950.indd 78 5/9/11 11:36:18 AM

78 Fashion Details

(Text)



mArTA monToTo SpAin


010-091_24950.indd 78 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

202 203 204

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



010-091_24950.indd 79 5/9/11 11:36:23 AM


(Text)



juliuS JApAn



010-091_24950.indd 79 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

205 206 207


010-091_24950.indd 80 5/9/11 11:36:27 AM

80 Fashion Details

(Text)

kArloTA lASPAlAS SpAin

BorA AkSu TurkEy

elenA SkAkun ruSSiA


010-091_24950.indd 80 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

208 209 210



010-091_24950.indd 81 5/9/11 11:36:30 AM


(Text)






010-091_24950.indd 81 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

211 212 213


010-091_24950.indd 82 5/9/11 11:36:34 AM

82 Fashion Details

(Text)





010-091_24950.indd 82 5/9/11 10:53:18 AM

214 215 216

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



010-091_24950.indd 83 5/9/11 11:36:38 AM


(Text)

elenA SkAkun ruSSiA

juliuS JApAn




010-091_24950.indd 83 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

217 218 219

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 84 5/9/11 11:36:42 AM

84 Fashion Details

(Text)

ion fiz SpAin

Tim VAn STeenBergen bElgiuM



010-091_24950.indd 84 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

220 221 222



010-091_24950.indd 85 5/9/11 11:36:47 AM


(Text)

lemoniez SpAin

AgAnoVich SErbiA/uk

elenA SkAkun ruSSiA



010-091_24950.indd 85 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

223 224 225

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 86 5/9/11 11:36:52 AM

86 Fashion Details

(Text)


juliuS JApAn

VASSilioS koSTeTSoS grEEcE


010-091_24950.indd 86 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

226 227 228

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



010-091_24950.indd 87 5/9/11 11:36:56 AM


(Text)


juliuS JApAn

ewA i wAllA SWEdEn



010-091_24950.indd 87 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

229 230 231

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


010-091_24950.indd 88 5/9/11 11:37:00 AM

88 Fashion Details

(Text)

ion fiz SpAin


juliuS JApAn


010-091_24950.indd 88 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

232 233 234



010-091_24950.indd 89 5/9/11 11:37:04 AM


(Text)


BiBiAn Blue SpAin




010-091_24950.indd 89 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

235 236 237

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


010-091_24950.indd 90 5/9/11 11:37:07 AM

90 Fashion Details

(Text)

juliuS JApAn


dAwid TomASzewSki polAnd


010-091_24950.indd 90 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM

238 239 240

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti



010-091_24950.indd 91 5/9/11 11:37:13 AM


(Text)

mAl-Aimée FrAncE





010-091_24950.indd 91 5/9/11 10:53:19 AM


092-151_C62448.indd 92 5/11/11 1:27:01 PM

92 Fashion Details

(Text)

ShoulderS and SleeveS

Shoulders and sleeves have a prominent role in current trends in fashion. After the subtlety and simplicity of the past two decades, runways around the world are now inundated with the spirit of the eighties with fashion proposals that concentrate the entire volume in this area, resulting in daring designs and creative concepts that convey richness and elegance. We include the legendary, exaggerated Grace Jones-style shoulder pads, whose revival this century is attributed to the French maison Balmain,

along with so many others that border on an architectural interpretation, and those that remind us of samurai warrior armor. As for the sleeves, we see a considerable influence from this period, taking puffed, lantern, or gigot sleeves as a reference. Appliqués, epau-lets, transparencies, structures, padding, and a countless number of techniques are included in the patterns of the most cutting-edge designs discussed in this chapter.


092-151_C62448.indd 92 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

gait diam dit, suscilla feugue velisit 93

(Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:92 (RAY) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion

05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:93

092-151_C62448.indd 93 5/11/11 1:27:02 PM

ShoulderS and SleeveS

Vas

silio

s Ko

stet

sos.

S/S

201

1. M

BFW

New

Yor

k.

(Text)(Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:92 (RAY) (Fogra 39) JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion

05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:93

092-151_C62448.indd 93 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

241 242 243

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 94 5/11/11 1:27:05 PM

94 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SpAin

The SwediSh School of TexTileS SWeden

BorA AkSuTurkey


092-151_C62448.indd 94 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

244 245 246

© Is

rael

Esp

arza

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:95

092-151_C62448.indd 95 5/11/11 1:27:09 PM

Shoulders and Sleeves 95

(Text)

MAlAfAchA BrAnd Mexico

MAniSh ArorA indiA

TSuMori chiSATo JApAn


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:95

092-151_C62448.indd 95 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

247 248 249

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


092-151_C62448.indd 96 5/11/11 1:27:13 PM

96 Fashion Details

(Text)


AnA locking SpAin

AnA locking SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 96 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

250 251 252

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:97

092-151_C62448.indd 97 5/11/11 1:27:18 PM


(Text)



MAniSh ArorA indiA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:97

092-151_C62448.indd 97 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

253 254 255

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


092-151_C62448.indd 98 5/11/11 1:27:22 PM

98 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnA locking SpAin

SinpATron SpAin



092-151_C62448.indd 98 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

256 257 258

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:99

092-151_C62448.indd 99 5/11/11 1:27:26 PM


(Text)

A.f. VAndeVorST BelGiuM




05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:99

092-151_C62448.indd 99 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

259 260 261

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 100 5/11/11 1:27:30 PM

100 Fashion Details

(Text)


ion fiz SpAin

eliSA pAloMino SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 100 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

262 263 264


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:101

092-151_C62448.indd 101 5/11/11 1:27:35 PM


(Text)

AgAnoVich SerBiA/uk

diMiTri iTAly



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:101

092-151_C62448.indd 101 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

265 266 267


092-151_C62448.indd 102 5/11/11 1:27:41 PM

102 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnA locking SpAin

g.V.g.V. JApAn

VASSilioS koSTeTSoS Greece


092-151_C62448.indd 102 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

268 269 270

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:103

092-151_C62448.indd 103 5/11/11 1:27:46 PM


(Text)

g.V.g.V. JApAn




05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:103

092-151_C62448.indd 103 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

271 272 273

© Is

rael

Esp

arza

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


092-151_C62448.indd 104 5/11/11 1:27:51 PM

104 Fashion Details

(Text)


deSignSkolen kolding denMArk

MAniSh ArorA indiA


092-151_C62448.indd 104 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

274 275 276


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:105

092-151_C62448.indd 105 5/11/11 1:27:56 PM


(Text)





05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:105

092-151_C62448.indd 105 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

277 278 279

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


092-151_C62448.indd 106 5/11/11 1:28:01 PM

106 Fashion Details

(Text)


dAwid ToMASzewSki polAnd

elenA przhonSkAyA ukrAine


092-151_C62448.indd 106 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

280 281 282


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:107

092-151_C62448.indd 107 5/11/11 1:28:05 PM


(Text)


MArTin lAMoThe SpAin



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:107

092-151_C62448.indd 107 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

283 284 285


092-151_C62448.indd 108 5/11/11 1:28:09 PM

108 Fashion Details

(Text)



AlenA AkhMAdullinA ruSSiA


092-151_C62448.indd 108 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

286 287 288

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:109

092-151_C62448.indd 109 5/11/11 1:28:12 PM


(Text)



ek ThongprASerT ThAilAnd


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:109

092-151_C62448.indd 109 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

289 290 291


092-151_C62448.indd 110 5/11/11 1:28:17 PM

110 Fashion Details

(Text)

Ali chAriSMA indoneSiA


MAlini rAMAni uSA/indiA


092-151_C62448.indd 110 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

292 293 294


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:111

092-151_C62448.indd 111 5/11/11 1:28:23 PM


(Text)



MAlini rAMAni uSA/indiA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:111

092-151_C62448.indd 111 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

295 296 297


092-151_C62448.indd 112 5/11/11 1:28:27 PM

112 Fashion Details

(Text)


STAS lopATkin ruSSiA

AnnA MiMinoShVili ruSSiA


092-151_C62448.indd 112 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

298 299 300

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:113

092-151_C62448.indd 113 5/11/11 1:28:32 PM


(Text)



MAl-AiMée FrAnce


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:113

092-151_C62448.indd 113 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

301 302 303

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


092-151_C62448.indd 114 5/11/11 1:28:39 PM

114 Fashion Details

(Text)

cATi Serrà SpAin

MAniSh ArorA indiA



092-151_C62448.indd 114 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

304 305 306

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:115

092-151_C62448.indd 115 5/11/11 1:28:44 PM


(Text)

MAniSh ArorA indiA


MAniSh ArorA indiA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:115

092-151_C62448.indd 115 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

307 308 309

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti

© G

iova

nni G

iann

oni


092-151_C62448.indd 116 5/11/11 1:28:48 PM

116 Fashion Details

(Text)


MAiSon MArTin MArgielA FrAnce

MAl-AiMée FrAnce


092-151_C62448.indd 116 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

310 311 312

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:117

092-151_C62448.indd 117 5/11/11 1:28:52 PM


(Text)

MAl-AiMée FrAnce

AMericAn pérez SpAin

georgiA hArdinge uk


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:117

092-151_C62448.indd 117 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

313 314 315

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 118 5/11/11 1:28:56 PM

118 Fashion Details

(Text)



cAMillA norrBAck FinlAnd


092-151_C62448.indd 118 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

316 317 318

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:119

092-151_C62448.indd 119 5/11/11 1:29:01 PM


(Text)





05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:119

092-151_C62448.indd 119 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

319 320 321

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 120 5/11/11 1:29:04 PM

120 Fashion Details

(Text)


ion fiz SpAin

idA SjöSTedT SWeden


092-151_C62448.indd 120 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

322 323 324


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:121

092-151_C62448.indd 121 5/11/11 1:29:08 PM


(Text)

cATi Serrà SpAin

georgiA hArdinge uk



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:121

092-151_C62448.indd 121 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

325 326 327


092-151_C62448.indd 122 5/11/11 1:29:12 PM

122 Fashion Details

(Text)

ASher leVine uSA

diAnA dorAdo coloMBiA

cATi Serrà SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 122 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

328 329 330

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:123

092-151_C62448.indd 123 5/11/11 1:29:16 PM


(Text)

ion fiz SpAin




05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:123

092-151_C62448.indd 123 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

331 332 333

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 124 5/11/11 1:29:20 PM

124 Fashion Details

(Text)



cAMillA norrBAck FinlAnd


092-151_C62448.indd 124 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

334 335 336

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:125

092-151_C62448.indd 125 5/11/11 1:29:24 PM


(Text)

MAl-AiMée FrAnce




05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:125

092-151_C62448.indd 125 5/11/11 1:26:40 PM

337 338 339

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


092-151_C62448.indd 126 5/11/11 1:29:31 PM

126 Fashion Details

(Text)

MAniSh ArorA indiA

ricArdo dourAdo porTuGAl



092-151_C62448.indd 126 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

340 341 342


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:127

092-151_C62448.indd 127 5/11/11 1:29:34 PM


(Text)

MAyA hAnSen SpAin




05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:127

092-151_C62448.indd 127 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

343 344 345

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 128 5/11/11 1:29:39 PM

128 Fashion Details

(Text)



QASiMi uniTed ArAB eMirATeS


092-151_C62448.indd 128 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

346 347 348

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:129

092-151_C62448.indd 129 5/11/11 1:29:44 PM


(Text)


jeAn//phillip denMArk

MAl-AiMée FrAnce


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:129

092-151_C62448.indd 129 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

349 350 351


092-151_C62448.indd 130 5/11/11 1:29:49 PM

130 Fashion Details

(Text)



SinpATron SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 130 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

352 353 354

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:131

092-151_C62448.indd 131 5/11/11 1:29:52 PM


(Text)





05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:131

092-151_C62448.indd 131 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

355 356 357


092-151_C62448.indd 132 5/11/11 1:29:55 PM

132 Fashion Details

(Text)

jeAn//phillip denMArk


Vrl collecTion SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 132 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

358 359 360


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:133

092-151_C62448.indd 133 5/11/11 1:29:58 PM


(Text)



ASher leVine uSA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:133

092-151_C62448.indd 133 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

361 362 363


092-151_C62448.indd 134 5/11/11 1:30:02 PM

134 Fashion Details

(Text)


ASher leVine uSA



092-151_C62448.indd 134 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

364 365 366


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:135

092-151_C62448.indd 135 5/11/11 1:30:06 PM


(Text)


diMiTri iTAly

BernArd chAndrAn MAlAySiA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:135

092-151_C62448.indd 135 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

367 368 369

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


092-151_C62448.indd 136 5/11/11 1:30:10 PM

136 Fashion Details

(Text)



TiM VAn STeenBergen BelGiuM


092-151_C62448.indd 136 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

370 371 372

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:137

092-151_C62448.indd 137 5/11/11 1:30:13 PM


(Text)



SpijkerS en SpijkerS The neTherlAndS


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:137

092-151_C62448.indd 137 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

373 374 375

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 138 5/11/11 1:30:16 PM

138 Fashion Details

(Text)



ewA i wAllA SWeden


092-151_C62448.indd 138 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

376 377 378


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:139

092-151_C62448.indd 139 5/11/11 1:30:20 PM


(Text)


eliSA pAloMino SpAin



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:139

092-151_C62448.indd 139 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

379 380 381


092-151_C62448.indd 140 5/11/11 1:30:24 PM

140 Fashion Details

(Text)


AgAnoVich SerBiA/uk

elenA SkAkun ruSSiA


092-151_C62448.indd 140 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

382 383 384


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:141

092-151_C62448.indd 141 5/11/11 1:30:29 PM


(Text)

SpijkerS en SpijkerS The neTherlAndS


AgAnoVich SerBiA/uk


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:141

092-151_C62448.indd 141 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

385 386 387


092-151_C62448.indd 142 5/11/11 1:30:33 PM

142 Fashion Details

(Text)

BiBiAn Blue SpAin


MAyA hAnSen SpAin


092-151_C62448.indd 142 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

388 389 390

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:143

092-151_C62448.indd 143 5/11/11 1:30:36 PM


(Text)

dAwid ToMASzewSki polAnd

BiBiAn Blue SpAin



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:143

092-151_C62448.indd 143 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

391 392 393

© P

atric

e St

able


092-151_C62448.indd 144 5/11/11 1:30:42 PM

144 Fashion Details

(Text)


AnjArA SpAin

kriS VAn ASSche BelGiuM


092-151_C62448.indd 144 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

394 395 396

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:145

092-151_C62448.indd 145 5/11/11 1:30:46 PM


(Text)

MAl-AiMée FrAnce

hArrihAliM indoneSiA



05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:145

092-151_C62448.indd 145 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

397 398 399


092-151_C62448.indd 146 5/11/11 1:30:52 PM

146 Fashion Details

(Text)

AilAnTo SpAin

MArk fAST cAnAdA

georgiA hArdinge uk


092-151_C62448.indd 146 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

400 401 402


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:147

092-151_C62448.indd 147 5/11/11 1:30:56 PM


(Text)

MArcel oSTerTAg GerMAny


BernArd chAndrAn MAlAySiA


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:147

092-151_C62448.indd 147 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

403 404 405

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


092-151_C62448.indd 148 5/11/11 1:30:59 PM

148 Fashion Details

(Text)

ricArdo dourAdo porTuGAl

chArlie le Mindu FrAnce



092-151_C62448.indd 148 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

406 407 408


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:149

092-151_C62448.indd 149 5/11/11 1:31:03 PM


(Text)





05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:149

092-151_C62448.indd 149 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

409 410 411


092-151_C62448.indd 150 5/11/11 1:31:07 PM

150 Fashion Details

(Text)

hArrihAliM indoneSiA




092-151_C62448.indd 150 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

412 413 414

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:151

092-151_C62448.indd 151 5/11/11 1:31:12 PM


(Text)





05-C62448 #175 Dtp:204 Page:151

092-151_C62448.indd 151 5/11/11 1:26:41 PM

(RAY) (Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:152

152-183_24950.indd 152 5/12/11 11:33:20 AM

(Text)

152 Fashion Details

The waistline is paramount when design-ing garments. Determining the shape and design of the waistline also determines the silhouette of a look. The use of waistbands causes an illusory effect in many cases: when it is not in line with the actual position of the waist, and it lies either above or below it, it can visually lengthen the legs, enhance the bust, or highlight the hips. This chapter shows the different details and shapes used by designers

in this area to enhance both the female and male figure. Some reference the forties, with very high waistlines that stylize the figure. Other models invoke the fifties, where the waist is defined in a more marked manner, balancing out the figure evenly between the hip and bust, Marilyn-style. Low waistlines, gathers, appliqués, seams, sashes, corsets, and belts complement and highlight the waistbands that are featured in this book.

Waistlines


152-183_24950.indd 152 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:152 (RAY) (Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion

#175 Dtp:204 Page:153

152-183_24950.indd 153 5/12/11 11:33:21 AM

Waistlines

Kris

Van

Ass

che.

S/S

201

1. P

aris

Men

’s Fa

shio

n W

eek.

© P

atric

e St

able

.

(Text)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:152 (RAY) (Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion

#175 Dtp:204 Page:153

152-183_24950.indd 153 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

415 416 417

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


152-183_24950.indd 154 5/12/11 11:33:25 AM

(Text)

154 Fashion Details

AnjArA Spain

julius Japan

MAlAfAchA BrAnd MexicO


152-183_24950.indd 154 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

418 419 420


#175 Dtp:204 Page:155

152-183_24950.indd 155 5/12/11 11:33:30 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 155

MArcel OstertAg GerMany

g.V.g.V. Japan

hAsAn hejAzi UK


#175 Dtp:204 Page:155

152-183_24950.indd 155 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

421 422 423

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


152-183_24950.indd 156 5/12/11 11:33:34 AM

(Text)

156 Fashion Details

cAti serrà Spain

the swedish schOOl Of textiles SweDen

g.V.g.V.Japan


152-183_24950.indd 156 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

424 425 426

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:157

152-183_24950.indd 157 5/12/11 11:33:38 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 157

MArcel OstertAg GerMany


AnA lOcking Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:157

152-183_24950.indd 157 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

427 428 429


152-183_24950.indd 158 5/12/11 11:33:43 AM

(Text)

158 Fashion Details

designskOlen kOlding DenMarK

g.V.g.V. Japan



152-183_24950.indd 158 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

430 431 432

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


#175 Dtp:204 Page:159

152-183_24950.indd 159 5/12/11 11:33:47 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 159

AnA lOcking Spain


AnA lOcking Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:159

152-183_24950.indd 159 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

433 434 435


152-183_24950.indd 160 5/12/11 11:33:53 AM

(Text)

160 Fashion Details

diMitriiTaLy


g.V.g.V. Japan


152-183_24950.indd 160 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

436 437 438


#175 Dtp:204 Page:161

152-183_24950.indd 161 5/12/11 11:33:57 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 161

cAti serrà Spain

AlenA AkhMAdullinA rUSSia

BOhentO Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:161

152-183_24950.indd 161 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

439 440 441

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


152-183_24950.indd 162 5/12/11 11:34:00 AM

(Text)

162 Fashion Details

AnjArA Spain

ewA i wAllA SweDen

ericA zAiOnts UKraine


152-183_24950.indd 162 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

442 443 444

© G

iova

nni G

iann

oni


#175 Dtp:204 Page:163

152-183_24950.indd 163 5/12/11 11:34:03 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 163


MAisOn MArtin MArgielAFrance

Ali chArisMA inDOneSia


#175 Dtp:204 Page:163

152-183_24950.indd 163 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

445 446 447

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


152-183_24950.indd 164 5/12/11 11:34:07 AM

(Text)

164 Fashion Details


AnnA MiMinOshVili rUSSia

MAl-AiMée France


152-183_24950.indd 164 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

448 449 450

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:165

152-183_24950.indd 165 5/12/11 11:34:12 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 165


MAnish ArOrA inDia

ricArdO dOurAdO pOrTUGaL


#175 Dtp:204 Page:165

152-183_24950.indd 165 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

451 452 453


152-183_24950.indd 166 5/12/11 11:34:16 AM

(Text)

166 Fashion Details

BeBA’s clOset Spain

cAti serrà Spain

cAti serrà Spain


152-183_24950.indd 166 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

454 455 456


#175 Dtp:204 Page:167

152-183_24950.indd 167 5/12/11 11:34:21 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 167

elenA PrzhOnskAyA UKraine

BeBA’s clOset Spain



#175 Dtp:204 Page:167

152-183_24950.indd 167 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

457 458 459


152-183_24950.indd 168 5/12/11 11:34:25 AM

(Text)

168 Fashion Details


ek thOngPrAsert ThaiLanD



152-183_24950.indd 168 5/12/11 11:33:05 AM

460 461 462

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:169

152-183_24950.indd 169 5/12/11 11:34:28 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 169

idA sjöstedt SweDen

Asher leVine USa

AilAntO Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:169

152-183_24950.indd 169 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

463 464 465


152-183_24950.indd 170 5/12/11 11:34:32 AM

(Text)

170 Fashion Details

jeAn//PhilliP DenMarK

BOhentO Spain



152-183_24950.indd 170 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

466 467 468

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:171

152-183_24950.indd 171 5/12/11 11:34:35 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 171

cArlOs díez Spain

ewA i wAllA SweDen

cAti serrà Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:171

152-183_24950.indd 171 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

469 470 471


152-183_24950.indd 172 5/12/11 11:34:38 AM

(Text)

172 Fashion Details



AilAntO Spain


152-183_24950.indd 172 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

472 473 474

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:173

152-183_24950.indd 173 5/12/11 11:34:41 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 173

ewA i wAllA SweDen

cAMillA nOrrBAck FinLanD

AilAntO Spain


#175 Dtp:204 Page:173

152-183_24950.indd 173 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

475 476 477

© P

atric

e St

able


152-183_24950.indd 174 5/12/11 11:34:46 AM

(Text)

174 Fashion Details

kris VAn Assche BeLGiUM


ek thOngPrAsert ThaiLanD


152-183_24950.indd 174 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

478 479 480

© P

atric

e St

able


#175 Dtp:204 Page:175

152-183_24950.indd 175 5/12/11 11:34:52 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 175


nereA lurgAin Spain

QAsiMi UniTeD araB eMiraTeS


#175 Dtp:204 Page:175

152-183_24950.indd 175 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

481 482 483


152-183_24950.indd 176 5/12/11 11:34:55 AM

(Text)

176 Fashion Details

Asher leVine USa

AilAntO Spain



152-183_24950.indd 176 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

484 485 486

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:177

152-183_24950.indd 177 5/12/11 11:34:59 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 177

tiM VAn steenBergen BeLGiUM

VlAdislAV AksenOV rUSSia

tsuMOri chisAtO Japan


#175 Dtp:204 Page:177

152-183_24950.indd 177 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

487 488 489

© P

atric

e St

able


152-183_24950.indd 178 5/12/11 11:35:05 AM

(Text)

178 Fashion Details



elenA skAkunrUSSia


152-183_24950.indd 178 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

490 491 492


#175 Dtp:204 Page:179

152-183_24950.indd 179 5/12/11 11:35:08 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 179



stAs lOPAtkin rUSSia


#175 Dtp:204 Page:179

152-183_24950.indd 179 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

493 494 495

© P

atric

e St

able


152-183_24950.indd 180 5/12/11 11:35:11 AM

(Text)

180 Fashion Details


hArrihAliM inDOneSia



152-183_24950.indd 180 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

496 497 498

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:181

152-183_24950.indd 181 5/12/11 11:35:15 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 181


julius Japan

tiM VAn steenBergen BeLGiUM


#175 Dtp:204 Page:181

152-183_24950.indd 181 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

499 500 501

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


152-183_24950.indd 182 5/12/11 11:35:18 AM

(Text)

182 Fashion Details



sPijkers en sPijkers The neTherLanDS


152-183_24950.indd 182 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM

502 503 504


#175 Dtp:204 Page:183

152-183_24950.indd 183 5/12/11 11:35:22 AM

(Text)

Waistlines 183

AilAntO Spain




#175 Dtp:204 Page:183

152-183_24950.indd 183 5/12/11 11:33:06 AM


184-223_24950.indd 184 5/9/11 6:34:44 PM

184 Fashion Details

(Text)

This section compiles together different de-tails that primarily had a practical use and that currently, in many cases, have a decorative role: pockets, buttons, snap rings, bundles, zippers, hooks, clips, Velcro, and buckles. Many of these started off as working or military accessories, however because of their functionality they were incorporated into civilian clothes and con-sequently into current fashion trends. Perhaps the zipper is the accessory that has evolved the most, invented by Gideon Sundback in 1913

and patented in 1917 as a “hookless fastener.” In 1923, the Goodrich Corporation coined the onomatopoeic name “zipper.” Today there are a wide variety of zippers on the market, including waterproof and invisible zippers, and they are available in materials such as polyester or metal alloys. We will see how the influence of zippers on eighties-style leather jackets is very much present in fashion today, giving many looks a more punk and rock style.

Pockets, ziPPers, and buttons


184-223_24950.indd 184 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM



#175 Dtp:204 Page:185

184-223_24950.indd 185 5/9/11 6:34:45 PM

Pockets, ziPPers, and buttons

Karl

ota

Lasp

alas

. S/S

201

1. 0

80 B

arce

lona

Fas

hion

Wee

k.


#175 Dtp:204 Page:185

184-223_24950.indd 185 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

505 506 507


184-223_24950.indd 186 5/9/11 6:34:50 PM

186 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SPaIn

Antonio AlvArAdo SPaIn

MArcel ostertAg GerMany


184-223_24950.indd 186 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

508 509 510


#175 Dtp:204 Page:187

184-223_24950.indd 187 5/9/11 6:34:53 PM

Pockets, Zippers, and Buttons 187

(Text)

MAlAfAchA BrAnd MexICo

leMoniez SPaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:187

184-223_24950.indd 187 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

511 512 513

© Is

rael

Esp

arza

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


184-223_24950.indd 188 5/9/11 6:34:58 PM

188 Fashion Details

(Text)

spijkers en spijkers The neTherlandS


MAnish ArorA IndIa


184-223_24950.indd 188 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

514 515 516


#175 Dtp:204 Page:189

184-223_24950.indd 189 5/9/11 6:35:01 PM


(Text)


AilAnto SPaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:189

184-223_24950.indd 189 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

517 518 519


184-223_24950.indd 190 5/9/11 6:35:05 PM

190 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnA locking SPaIn

AlenA AkhMAdullinA ruSSIa

MArtin lAMothe SPaIn


184-223_24950.indd 190 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

520 521 522


#175 Dtp:204 Page:191

184-223_24950.indd 191 5/9/11 6:35:09 PM


(Text)

AnA locking SPaIn


cAti serrà SPaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:191

184-223_24950.indd 191 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

523 524 525


184-223_24950.indd 192 5/9/11 6:35:14 PM

192 Fashion Details

(Text)

QAsiMi unITed arab eMIraTeS

cArlos díez SPaIn

designskolen kolding denMark


184-223_24950.indd 192 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

526 527 528


#175 Dtp:204 Page:193

184-223_24950.indd 193 5/9/11 6:35:17 PM


(Text)


MArtin lAMothe SPaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:193

184-223_24950.indd 193 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

529 530 531

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


184-223_24950.indd 194 5/9/11 6:35:20 PM

194 Fashion Details

(Text)

ewA i wAllA SWeden

jeAn//phillip denMark

kArlotA lAspAlAs SPaIn


184-223_24950.indd 194 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

532 533 534

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:195

184-223_24950.indd 195 5/9/11 6:35:23 PM


(Text)



the swedish school of textiles SWeden


#175 Dtp:204 Page:195

184-223_24950.indd 195 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

535 536 537

© G

iova

nni G

iann

oni


184-223_24950.indd 196 5/9/11 6:35:25 PM

196 Fashion Details

(Text)

elenA przhonskAyA ukraIne

MAison MArtin MArgielA FranCe



184-223_24950.indd 196 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

538 539 540

© G

iova

nni G

iann

oni


#175 Dtp:204 Page:197

184-223_24950.indd 197 5/9/11 6:35:27 PM


(Text)


MAison MArtin MArgielA FranCe



#175 Dtp:204 Page:197

184-223_24950.indd 197 5/9/11 6:34:25 PM

541 542 543


184-223_24950.indd 198 5/9/11 6:35:32 PM

198 Fashion Details

(Text)

hAsAn hejAzi uk

ricArdo dourAdo PorTuGal



184-223_24950.indd 198 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

544 545 546


#175 Dtp:204 Page:199

184-223_24950.indd 199 5/9/11 6:35:37 PM


(Text)


AnA locking SPaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:199

184-223_24950.indd 199 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

547 548 549


184-223_24950.indd 200 5/9/11 6:35:42 PM

200 Fashion Details

(Text)


ek thongprAsert ThaIland



184-223_24950.indd 200 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

550 551 552


#175 Dtp:204 Page:201

184-223_24950.indd 201 5/9/11 6:35:46 PM


(Text)

sinpAtron SPaIn


AnA locking SPaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:201

184-223_24950.indd 201 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

553 554 555


184-223_24950.indd 202 5/9/11 6:35:50 PM

202 Fashion Details

(Text)

AilAnto SPaIn


leMoniez SPaIn


184-223_24950.indd 202 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

556 557 558


#175 Dtp:204 Page:203

184-223_24950.indd 203 5/9/11 6:35:54 PM


(Text)





#175 Dtp:204 Page:203

184-223_24950.indd 203 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

559 560 561


184-223_24950.indd 204 5/9/11 6:35:57 PM

204 Fashion Details

(Text)

hAsAn hejAzi uk


leMoniez SPaIn


184-223_24950.indd 204 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

562 563 564

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:205

184-223_24950.indd 205 5/9/11 6:36:01 PM


(Text)


ewA i wAllA SWeden



#175 Dtp:204 Page:205

184-223_24950.indd 205 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

565 566 567


184-223_24950.indd 206 5/9/11 6:36:06 PM

206 Fashion Details

(Text)


BiBiAn Blue SPaIn

leMoniez SPaIn


184-223_24950.indd 206 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

568 569 570

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


#175 Dtp:204 Page:207

184-223_24950.indd 207 5/9/11 6:36:11 PM


(Text)



MAl-AiMée FranCe


#175 Dtp:204 Page:207

184-223_24950.indd 207 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

571 572 573


184-223_24950.indd 208 5/9/11 6:36:15 PM

208 Fashion Details

(Text)

nereA lurgAin SPaIn

juAnjo olivA SPaIn



184-223_24950.indd 208 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

574 575 576

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:209

184-223_24950.indd 209 5/9/11 6:36:19 PM


(Text)

julius JaPan




#175 Dtp:204 Page:209

184-223_24950.indd 209 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

577 578 579

© P

atric

e St

able

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


184-223_24950.indd 210 5/9/11 6:36:23 PM

210 Fashion Details

(Text)

kris vAn Assche belGIuM

ion fiz SPaIn

ewA i wAllA SWeden


184-223_24950.indd 210 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

580 581 582

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:211

184-223_24950.indd 211 5/9/11 6:36:27 PM


(Text)



ewA i wAllA SWeden


#175 Dtp:204 Page:211

184-223_24950.indd 211 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

583 584 585

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


184-223_24950.indd 212 5/9/11 6:36:31 PM

212 Fashion Details

(Text)

oMAr kAshourA uk


dAwid toMAszewski Poland


184-223_24950.indd 212 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

586 587 588


#175 Dtp:204 Page:213

184-223_24950.indd 213 5/9/11 6:36:34 PM


(Text)

Asher levine uSa

elenA skAkun ruSSIa

Asher levine uSa


#175 Dtp:204 Page:213

184-223_24950.indd 213 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

589 590 591


184-223_24950.indd 214 5/9/11 6:36:38 PM

214 Fashion Details

(Text)

stAs lopAtkin ruSSIa


tsuMori chisAto JaPan


184-223_24950.indd 214 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

592 593 594


#175 Dtp:204 Page:215

184-223_24950.indd 215 5/9/11 6:36:42 PM


(Text)

sinpAtron SPaIn

Asher levine uSa



#175 Dtp:204 Page:215

184-223_24950.indd 215 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

595 596 597


184-223_24950.indd 216 5/9/11 6:36:44 PM

216 Fashion Details

(Text)

Asher levine uSa


Asher levine uSa


184-223_24950.indd 216 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

598 599 600

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:217

184-223_24950.indd 217 5/9/11 6:36:47 PM


(Text)

julius JaPan


julius JaPan


#175 Dtp:204 Page:217

184-223_24950.indd 217 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

601 602 603

© P

atric

e St

able

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


184-223_24950.indd 218 5/9/11 6:36:51 PM

218 Fashion Details

(Text)


ewA i wAllA SWeden



184-223_24950.indd 218 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

604 605 606


#175 Dtp:204 Page:219

184-223_24950.indd 219 5/9/11 6:36:54 PM


(Text)

vlAdislAv Aksenov ruSSIa




#175 Dtp:204 Page:219

184-223_24950.indd 219 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

607 608 609


184-223_24950.indd 220 5/9/11 6:36:58 PM

220 Fashion Details

(Text)


spijkers en spijkers The neTherlandS

Ali chArisMA IndoneSIa


184-223_24950.indd 220 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

610 611 612


#175 Dtp:204 Page:221

184-223_24950.indd 221 5/9/11 6:37:01 PM


(Text)

Asger juel lArsen denMark




#175 Dtp:204 Page:221

184-223_24950.indd 221 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

613 614 615

© P

atric

e St

able

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


184-223_24950.indd 222 5/9/11 6:37:04 PM

222 Fashion Details

(Text)

Asher levine uSa


cAMillA norrBAck FInland


184-223_24950.indd 222 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM

616 617 618

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:223

184-223_24950.indd 223 5/9/11 6:37:07 PM


(Text)


ewA i wAllA SWeden



#175 Dtp:204 Page:223

184-223_24950.indd 223 5/9/11 6:34:26 PM


224-259_24950.indd 224 5/9/11 6:41:03 PM

224 Fashion Details

(Text)

GatherinG and drapinG

Gathering and draping are techniques that give garments an elegant and romantic look, owing to how the fabric hangs and the decorative effects that gathers create. Both are old sewing techniques that date back years and draping, for example, has always been considered a technique linked to haute couture. In current fashion trends, however, both techniques have experienced a resurgence, as this chapter demonstrates. Gathering, a French technique that involves creating fine creases in the fabric, is very much present in sleeves,

waistlines, and necklines, creating floral motifs or other embellishments. Draping, which traditionally uses fabrics such as satin, crepe, chiffon, or georgette, now can be achieved with sportier fabrics like cotton and elastane. With some other fabrics, the beauty of the drape and the effect of how the fabric hangs will occur either by purposely adding more material or by stretching on the bias. In this chapter we will study a selection of the simplest gathers and drapes to more elaborate examples of these old sewing techniques.


224-259_24950.indd 224 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM



#175 Dtp:204 Page:225

224-259_24950.indd 225 5/9/11 6:41:03 PM

GatherinG and drapinG

Elen

a Pr

zhon

skay

a. S

/S 2

011.

Ukr

aini

an F

ashi

on W

eek


#175 Dtp:204 Page:225

224-259_24950.indd 225 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

619 620 621

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


224-259_24950.indd 226 5/9/11 6:41:06 PM

226 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SpaIn

BeBA’s Closet SpaIn

the swedish sChool of textiles SWeDen


224-259_24950.indd 226 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

622 623 624

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:227

224-259_24950.indd 227 5/9/11 6:41:09 PM

Gathering and Draping 227

(Text)

CArlos díez SpaIn

lemoniez SpaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:227

224-259_24950.indd 227 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

625 626 627


224-259_24950.indd 228 5/9/11 6:41:13 PM

228 Fashion Details

(Text)


AnA loCking SpaIn

ViCtorio & luCChino SpaIn


224-259_24950.indd 228 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

628 629 630


#175 Dtp:204 Page:229

224-259_24950.indd 229 5/9/11 6:41:17 PM


(Text)

juAnjo oliVASpaIn

CArlos díez SpaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:229

224-259_24950.indd 229 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

631 632 633

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


224-259_24950.indd 230 5/9/11 6:41:20 PM

230 Fashion Details

(Text)





224-259_24950.indd 230 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

634 635 636

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:231

224-259_24950.indd 231 5/9/11 6:41:22 PM


(Text)





#175 Dtp:204 Page:231

224-259_24950.indd 231 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

637 638 639


224-259_24950.indd 232 5/9/11 6:41:26 PM

232 Fashion Details

(Text)

mArtin lAmothe SpaIn

elisA PAlomino SpaIn



224-259_24950.indd 232 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

640 641 642

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


#175 Dtp:204 Page:233

224-259_24950.indd 233 5/9/11 6:41:30 PM


(Text)

AgAnoViChSerBIa/UK

dAwid tomAszewski polanD



#175 Dtp:204 Page:233

224-259_24950.indd 233 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

643 644 645


224-259_24950.indd 234 5/9/11 6:41:34 PM

234 Fashion Details

(Text)


tsumori ChisAto Japan

AnA loCking SpaIn


224-259_24950.indd 234 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

646 647 648


#175 Dtp:204 Page:235

224-259_24950.indd 235 5/9/11 6:41:38 PM


(Text)

diAnA dorAdo ColomBIa

nereA lurgAin SpaIn

georgiA hArdinge UK


#175 Dtp:204 Page:235

224-259_24950.indd 235 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

649 650 651


224-259_24950.indd 236 5/9/11 6:41:42 PM

236 Fashion Details

(Text)

ion fiz SpaIn

VAssilios kostetsos GreeCe



224-259_24950.indd 236 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

652 653 654

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:237

224-259_24950.indd 237 5/9/11 6:41:46 PM


(Text)

tim VAn steenBergen BelGIUm


mAyA hAnsen SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:237

224-259_24950.indd 237 5/9/11 6:40:44 PM

655 656 657

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


224-259_24950.indd 238 5/9/11 6:41:48 PM

238 Fashion Details

(Text)

ewA i wAllA SWeDen

mAlAfAChA BrAnd mexICo

ewA i wAllA SWeDen


224-259_24950.indd 238 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

658 659 660


#175 Dtp:204 Page:239

224-259_24950.indd 239 5/9/11 6:41:52 PM


(Text)

AnjArA SpaIn

Bohento SpaIn

A.f. VAndeVorst BelGIUm


#175 Dtp:204 Page:239

224-259_24950.indd 239 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

661 662 663


224-259_24950.indd 240 5/9/11 6:41:56 PM

240 Fashion Details

(Text)

AilAnto SpaIn

AmeriCAn Pérez SpaIn

juAnjo oliVA SpaIn


224-259_24950.indd 240 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

664 665 666


#175 Dtp:204 Page:241

224-259_24950.indd 241 5/9/11 6:42:00 PM


(Text)

mArtin lAmotheSpaIn

georgiA hArdinge UK

tsumori ChisAto Japan


#175 Dtp:204 Page:241

224-259_24950.indd 241 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

667 668 669


224-259_24950.indd 242 5/9/11 6:42:03 PM

242 Fashion Details

(Text)

mAyA hAnsen SpaIn

juAnjo oliVA SpaIn

mAlAfAChA BrAnd mexICo


224-259_24950.indd 242 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

670 671 672

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:243

224-259_24950.indd 243 5/9/11 6:42:06 PM


(Text)

ewA i wAllA SWeDen

elenA PrzhonskAyA UKraIne



#175 Dtp:204 Page:243

224-259_24950.indd 243 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

673 674 675


224-259_24950.indd 244 5/9/11 6:42:10 PM

244 Fashion Details

(Text)

kArlotA lAsPAlAs SpaIn

riCArdo dourAdo portUGal

hArrihAlim InDoneSIa


224-259_24950.indd 244 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

676 677 678


#175 Dtp:204 Page:245

224-259_24950.indd 245 5/9/11 6:42:16 PM


(Text)


designskolen kolding DenmarK



#175 Dtp:204 Page:245

224-259_24950.indd 245 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

679 680 681

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


224-259_24950.indd 246 5/9/11 6:42:20 PM

246 Fashion Details

(Text)

diAnA dorAdo ColomBIa


juAnjo oliVA SpaIn


224-259_24950.indd 246 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

682 683 684


#175 Dtp:204 Page:247

224-259_24950.indd 247 5/9/11 6:42:24 PM


(Text)

georgiA hArdinge UK

elenA skAkun rUSSIa

sinPAtron SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:247

224-259_24950.indd 247 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

685 686 687

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


224-259_24950.indd 248 5/9/11 6:42:27 PM

248 Fashion Details

(Text)

Bohento SpaIn

dAwid tomAszewski polanD



224-259_24950.indd 248 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

688 689 690

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:249

224-259_24950.indd 249 5/9/11 6:42:29 PM


(Text)

jeAn//PhilliP DenmarK




#175 Dtp:204 Page:249

224-259_24950.indd 249 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

691 692 693

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


224-259_24950.indd 250 5/9/11 6:42:33 PM

250 Fashion Details

(Text)

QAsimi UnIteD araB emIrateS

juAnjo oliVA SpaIn

julius Japan


224-259_24950.indd 250 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

694 695 696

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:251

224-259_24950.indd 251 5/9/11 6:42:37 PM


(Text)

nereA lurgAin SpaIn

ewA i wAllA SWeDen

ion fiz SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:251

224-259_24950.indd 251 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

697 698 699


224-259_24950.indd 252 5/9/11 6:42:40 PM

252 Fashion Details

(Text)

AlenA AkhmAdullinA rUSSIa


eriCA zAionts UKraIne


224-259_24950.indd 252 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

700 701 702

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:253

224-259_24950.indd 253 5/9/11 6:42:41 PM


(Text)


Asher leVine USa



#175 Dtp:204 Page:253

224-259_24950.indd 253 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

703 704 705

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


224-259_24950.indd 254 5/9/11 6:42:45 PM

254 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SpaIn


AlenA AkhmAdullinA rUSSIa


224-259_24950.indd 254 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

706 707 708


#175 Dtp:204 Page:255

224-259_24950.indd 255 5/9/11 6:42:48 PM


(Text)


georgiA hArdinge UK

designskolen kolding DenmarK


#175 Dtp:204 Page:255

224-259_24950.indd 255 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

709 710 711


224-259_24950.indd 256 5/9/11 6:42:52 PM

256 Fashion Details

(Text)

AnjArA SpaIn


Ali ChArismA InDoneSIa


224-259_24950.indd 256 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

712 713 714

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:257

224-259_24950.indd 257 5/9/11 6:42:55 PM


(Text)

BiBiAn Blue SpaIn


ewA i wAllA SWeDen


#175 Dtp:204 Page:257

224-259_24950.indd 257 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

715 716 717

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


224-259_24950.indd 258 5/9/11 6:42:58 PM

258 Fashion Details

(Text)

Asher leVine USa


AnjArA SpaIn


224-259_24950.indd 258 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM

718 719 720

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:259

224-259_24950.indd 259 5/9/11 6:43:02 PM


(Text)


VAssilios kostetsos GreeCe



#175 Dtp:204 Page:259

224-259_24950.indd 259 5/9/11 6:40:45 PM


260-287_24950.indd 260 5/9/11 6:50:08 PM

260 Fashion Details

(Text)

This chapter showcases the details of the concepts that stand out for their use of time-less and feminine flounces or elegant pleats. Flounces, present on runways around the world year after year, especially in spring and summer, are displayed in dozens of different ways. We will study a selection from small flounces, which add a finishing touch to simple garments, to overelaborate voluminous flounces contributing to a sumptuous, vibrant look. They are perfect to provide volume or flight to skirts, dresses, sleeves, and collars in

delicate fabrics such as chiffon, organza, silk, and tulle. Couture designers and experts such as Valentino and Galliano have traditionally drawn inspiration from the influence of Flamenco fashion, which is famous for its feminine flounces. On these pages you will be able to see some of the latest work from the Spanish designers Victorio & Lucchino, the innovative heirs to this art. In addition to the combination of these elements, we will take a look at other techniques, such as pintucks and frills.

Pleats and flounces


260-287_24950.indd 260 5/12/11 11:37:08 AM



#175 Dtp:204 Page:261

260-287_24950.indd 261 5/9/11 6:50:09 PM

Pleats and flounces

Man

ish

Aro

ra. S

/S 2

011.

Par

is F

ashi

on W

eek.

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os.


#175 Dtp:204 Page:261

260-287_24950.indd 261 5/12/11 11:37:08 AM

721 722 723

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


260-287_24950.indd 262 5/9/11 6:50:15 PM

262 Fashion Details

(Text)

Dimitri ITaLy

manish arora IndIa

malafacha BranD MexICO


260-287_24950.indd 262 5/9/11 6:49:39 PM

724 725 726

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:263

260-287_24950.indd 263 5/9/11 6:50:19 PM

Pleats and Flounces 263

(Text)

american Pérez SpaIn

manish arora IndIa

ana locking SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:263

260-287_24950.indd 263 5/9/11 6:49:39 PM

727 728 729


260-287_24950.indd 264 5/9/11 6:50:23 PM

264 Fashion Details

(Text)

american Pérez SpaIn

Victorio & lucchino SpaIn



260-287_24950.indd 264 5/9/11 6:49:39 PM

730 731 732

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


#175 Dtp:204 Page:265

260-287_24950.indd 265 5/9/11 6:50:26 PM


(Text)


JuanJo oliVa SpaIn

BeBa’s closet SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:265

260-287_24950.indd 265 5/9/11 6:49:39 PM

733 734 735

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


260-287_24950.indd 266 5/9/11 6:50:31 PM

266 Fashion Details

(Text)

Diana DoraDo COLOMbIa

manish arora IndIa



260-287_24950.indd 266 5/9/11 6:49:39 PM

736 737 738

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:267

260-287_24950.indd 267 5/9/11 6:50:34 PM


(Text)

iDa sJösteDt SWeden


ion fiz SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:267

260-287_24950.indd 267 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

739 740 741


260-287_24950.indd 268 5/9/11 6:50:38 PM

268 Fashion Details

(Text)

ailanto SpaIn

elisa Palomino SpaIn

ion fiz SpaIn


260-287_24950.indd 268 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

742 743 744


#175 Dtp:204 Page:269

260-287_24950.indd 269 5/9/11 6:50:42 PM


(Text)



BeBa’s closet SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:269

260-287_24950.indd 269 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

745 746 747


260-287_24950.indd 270 5/9/11 6:50:46 PM

270 Fashion Details

(Text)


ion fiz SpaIn

ailanto SpaIn


260-287_24950.indd 270 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

748 749 750


#175 Dtp:204 Page:271

260-287_24950.indd 271 5/9/11 6:50:49 PM


(Text)


ion fiz SpaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:271

260-287_24950.indd 271 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

751 752 753

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


260-287_24950.indd 272 5/9/11 6:50:53 PM

272 Fashion Details

(Text)

ewa i walla SWeden

g.V.g.V. Japan

martin lamothe SpaIn


260-287_24950.indd 272 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

754 755 756


#175 Dtp:204 Page:273

260-287_24950.indd 273 5/9/11 6:50:58 PM


(Text)

g.V.g.V. Japan

erica zaionts UkraIne

ailanto SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:273

260-287_24950.indd 273 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

757 758 759


260-287_24950.indd 274 5/9/11 6:51:01 PM

274 Fashion Details

(Text)

tsumori chisato Japan

harrihalim IndOneSIa

ana locking SpaIn


260-287_24950.indd 274 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

760 761 762

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


#175 Dtp:204 Page:275

260-287_24950.indd 275 5/9/11 6:51:04 PM


(Text)



carlos Díez SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:275

260-287_24950.indd 275 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

763 764 765

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


260-287_24950.indd 276 5/9/11 6:51:09 PM

276 Fashion Details

(Text)

manish arora IndIa

cati serrà SpaIn



260-287_24950.indd 276 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

766 767 768


#175 Dtp:204 Page:277

260-287_24950.indd 277 5/9/11 6:51:13 PM


(Text)

cati serrà SpaIn


elena Przhonskaya UkraIne


#175 Dtp:204 Page:277

260-287_24950.indd 277 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

769 770 771

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


260-287_24950.indd 278 5/9/11 6:51:16 PM

278 Fashion Details

(Text)





260-287_24950.indd 278 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

772 773 774

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:279

260-287_24950.indd 279 5/9/11 6:51:18 PM


(Text)

ewa i walla SWeden

cati serrà SpaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:279

260-287_24950.indd 279 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

775 776 777

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


260-287_24950.indd 280 5/9/11 6:51:21 PM

280 Fashion Details

(Text)



ricarDo DouraDo pOrTUGaL


260-287_24950.indd 280 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

778 779 780

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:281

260-287_24950.indd 281 5/9/11 6:51:24 PM


(Text)





#175 Dtp:204 Page:281

260-287_24950.indd 281 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

781 782 783

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


260-287_24950.indd 282 5/9/11 6:51:26 PM

282 Fashion Details

(Text)

DawiD tomaszewski pOLand

camilla norrBack FInLand

ewa i walla SWeden


260-287_24950.indd 282 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

784 785 786

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


#175 Dtp:204 Page:283

260-287_24950.indd 283 5/9/11 6:51:30 PM


(Text)

Vassilios kostetsos GreeCe




#175 Dtp:204 Page:283

260-287_24950.indd 283 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

787 788 789

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


260-287_24950.indd 284 5/9/11 6:51:34 PM

284 Fashion Details

(Text)



georgia harDinge Uk


260-287_24950.indd 284 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

790 791 792

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:285

260-287_24950.indd 285 5/9/11 6:51:36 PM


(Text)

erica zaionts UkraIne

camilla norrBack FInLand

Bora aksu TUrkey


#175 Dtp:204 Page:285

260-287_24950.indd 285 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

793 794 795


260-287_24950.indd 286 5/9/11 6:51:39 PM

286 Fashion Details

(Text)





260-287_24950.indd 286 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM

796 797 798

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:287

260-287_24950.indd 287 5/9/11 6:51:41 PM


(Text)



ewa i walla SWeden


#175 Dtp:204 Page:287

260-287_24950.indd 287 5/9/11 6:49:40 PM



288-325_24950.indd 288 5/9/11 6:56:21 PM

288 Fashion Details

(Text)

Decorative appliqués offer a wide range of possibilities. By adding the perfect piece, many designers covert a garment into a must-have of the season. International runways are brimming with studs, sequins, feathers, rhinestones, beads, ribbons, strings, fringes, tassels, braids, paint-ings, and many more accessories in this fantasy world. In this chapter we will see elements like military-inspired epaulettes, satin ribbons and Baroque-style beaded corsets, or fragile items

such as Swarovski crystals, which can be seen in the Canadian designer Mark Fast’s latest collection, featured at London Fashion Week. Trends revive elements such as feathers and beading and new concepts, like long artificial hair, vinyl applications, wires, and craftwork, such as painting done by hand, and other dec-orative motifs, complement the latest fash-ions. Tradition and ethnic resources are also a recurring feature in these designs.

Decorative appliqués



288-325_24950.indd 288 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM


(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:288 (RAY)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:288


288-325_24950.indd 289 5/9/11 6:56:22 PM

Decorative appliqués

Mal

ini R

aman

i . S

/S 2

011.

Lak

me

Fash

ion

Wee

k.

(Text)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:288 (RAY)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:288


288-325_24950.indd 289 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

799 800 801

© Is

rael

Esp

arza

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


288-325_24950.indd 290 5/9/11 6:56:27 PM

290 Fashion Details

(Text)

Manish arora InDIa

Malini raMani USa/InDIa

Malafacha Brand MexICo


288-325_24950.indd 290 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

802 803 804

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:291

288-325_24950.indd 291 5/9/11 6:56:31 PM

Decorative Appliqués 291

(Text)

Malini raMani USa/InDIa

Manish arora InDIa

aMerican Pérez SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:291

288-325_24950.indd 291 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

805 806 807


288-325_24950.indd 292 5/9/11 6:56:36 PM

292 Fashion Details

(Text)

TsuMori chisaTo Japan


Mark fasT CanaDa


288-325_24950.indd 292 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

808 809 810


#175 Dtp:204 Page:293

288-325_24950.indd 293 5/9/11 6:56:39 PM


(Text)

VicTorio & lucchino SpaIn




#175 Dtp:204 Page:293

288-325_24950.indd 293 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

811 812 813


288-325_24950.indd 294 5/9/11 6:56:44 PM

294 Fashion Details

(Text)

Marcel osTerTag GerMany

BeBa’s closeT SpaIn



288-325_24950.indd 294 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

814 815 816

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:295

288-325_24950.indd 295 5/9/11 6:56:49 PM


(Text)

Manish arora InDIa

g.V.g.V. Japan

ek ThongPraserT ThaILanD


#175 Dtp:204 Page:295

288-325_24950.indd 295 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

817 818 819

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


288-325_24950.indd 296 5/9/11 6:56:52 PM

296 Fashion Details

(Text)


ida sjösTedT SWeDen

sinPaTron SpaIn


288-325_24950.indd 296 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

820 821 822

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


#175 Dtp:204 Page:297

288-325_24950.indd 297 5/9/11 6:56:56 PM


(Text)

designskolen kolding DenMark




#175 Dtp:204 Page:297

288-325_24950.indd 297 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

823 824 825


288-325_24950.indd 298 5/9/11 6:57:01 PM

298 Fashion Details

(Text)

anjara SpaIn


BiBian Blue SpaIn


288-325_24950.indd 298 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

826 827 828


#175 Dtp:204 Page:299

288-325_24950.indd 299 5/9/11 6:57:05 PM


(Text)

g.V.g.V. Japan

BiBian Blue SpaIn

anTonio alVarado SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:299

288-325_24950.indd 299 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

829 830 831


288-325_24950.indd 300 5/9/11 6:57:09 PM

300 Fashion Details

(Text)





288-325_24950.indd 300 5/9/11 6:55:47 PM

832 833 834

© Is

rael

Esp

arza


#175 Dtp:204 Page:301

288-325_24950.indd 301 5/9/11 6:57:13 PM


(Text)

BiBian Blue SpaIn




#175 Dtp:204 Page:301

288-325_24950.indd 301 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

835 836 837

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


288-325_24950.indd 302 5/9/11 6:57:17 PM

302 Fashion Details

(Text)

Manish arora InDIa


Manish arora InDIa


288-325_24950.indd 302 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

838 839 840

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:303

288-325_24950.indd 303 5/9/11 6:57:22 PM


(Text)


Mark fasT CanaDa

Manish arora InDIa


#175 Dtp:204 Page:303

288-325_24950.indd 303 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

841 842 843


288-325_24950.indd 304 5/9/11 6:57:26 PM

304 Fashion Details

(Text)

ailanTo SpaIn




288-325_24950.indd 304 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

844 845 846

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


#175 Dtp:204 Page:305

288-325_24950.indd 305 5/9/11 6:57:30 PM


(Text)

Manish arora InDIa

diana dorado CoLoMBIa



#175 Dtp:204 Page:305

288-325_24950.indd 305 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

847 848 249

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


288-325_24950.indd 306 5/9/11 6:57:35 PM

306 Fashion Details

(Text)

Manish arora InDIa

ion fiz SpaIn

Mark fasT CanaDa


288-325_24950.indd 306 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

850 851 852

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


#175 Dtp:204 Page:307

288-325_24950.indd 307 5/9/11 6:57:38 PM


(Text)

sTas loPaTkin rUSSIa

caTi serrà SpaIn



#175 Dtp:204 Page:307

288-325_24950.indd 307 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

853 854 855


288-325_24950.indd 308 5/9/11 6:57:41 PM

308 Fashion Details

(Text)

Maya hansen SpaIn




288-325_24950.indd 308 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

856 857 858

© P

atric

e St

able


#175 Dtp:204 Page:309

288-325_24950.indd 309 5/9/11 6:57:46 PM


(Text)

kris Van assche BeLGIUM


sinPaTron SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:309

288-325_24950.indd 309 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

859 860 861


288-325_24950.indd 310 5/9/11 6:57:50 PM

310 Fashion Details

(Text)

ricardo dourado porTUGaL




288-325_24950.indd 310 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

862 863 864


#175 Dtp:204 Page:311

288-325_24950.indd 311 5/9/11 6:57:54 PM


(Text)

elisa PaloMino SpaIn

Vassilios kosTeTsos GreeCe



#175 Dtp:204 Page:311

288-325_24950.indd 311 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

865 866 867


288-325_24950.indd 312 5/9/11 6:57:59 PM

312 Fashion Details

(Text)

georgia hardinge Uk

ali charisMa InDoneSIa



288-325_24950.indd 312 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

868 869 870

© M

ina

Ger

ngro

ss


#175 Dtp:204 Page:313

288-325_24950.indd 313 5/9/11 6:58:02 PM


(Text)


dawid ToMaszewski poLanD

QasiMi UnITeD araB eMIraTeS


#175 Dtp:204 Page:313

288-325_24950.indd 313 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

871 872 873


288-325_24950.indd 314 5/9/11 6:58:07 PM

314 Fashion Details

(Text)

ricardo dourado porTUGaL


VladislaV aksenoV rUSSIa


288-325_24950.indd 314 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

874 875 876


#175 Dtp:204 Page:315

288-325_24950.indd 315 5/9/11 6:58:11 PM


(Text)


VladislaV aksenoV rUSSIa

Vassilios kosTeTsos GreeCe


#175 Dtp:204 Page:315

288-325_24950.indd 315 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

877 878 879

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


288-325_24950.indd 316 5/9/11 6:58:14 PM

316 Fashion Details

(Text)

Maya hansen SpaIn

Mal-aiMée FranCe

harrihaliM InDoneSIa


288-325_24950.indd 316 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

880 881 882

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


#175 Dtp:204 Page:317

288-325_24950.indd 317 5/9/11 6:58:19 PM


(Text)

j js lee korea

TiM Van sTeenBergen BeLGIUM

BiBian Blue SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:317

288-325_24950.indd 317 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

883 884 885


288-325_24950.indd 318 5/9/11 6:58:24 PM

318 Fashion Details

(Text)


Mark fasT CanaDa



288-325_24950.indd 318 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

886 887 888


#175 Dtp:204 Page:319

288-325_24950.indd 319 5/9/11 6:58:26 PM


(Text)





#175 Dtp:204 Page:319

288-325_24950.indd 319 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

889 890 891

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


288-325_24950.indd 320 5/9/11 6:58:31 PM

320 Fashion Details

(Text)


diMiTri ITaLy



288-325_24950.indd 320 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

892 893 894


#175 Dtp:204 Page:321

288-325_24950.indd 321 5/9/11 6:58:35 PM


(Text)



diMiTri ITaLy


#175 Dtp:204 Page:321

288-325_24950.indd 321 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

895 896 897


288-325_24950.indd 322 5/9/11 6:58:38 PM

322 Fashion Details

(Text)

asher leVine USa

BiBian Blue SpaIn



288-325_24950.indd 322 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

898 899 900


#175 Dtp:204 Page:323

288-325_24950.indd 323 5/9/11 6:58:41 PM


(Text)

asger juel larsen DenMark


MarTin laMoThe SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:323

288-325_24950.indd 323 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

901 902 903


288-325_24950.indd 324 5/9/11 6:58:43 PM

324 Fashion Details

(Text)

asher leVine USa


Maya hansen SpaIn


288-325_24950.indd 324 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM

904 905 906

© G

iova

nni G

iann

oni


#175 Dtp:204 Page:325

288-325_24950.indd 325 5/9/11 6:58:45 PM


(Text)

elena Przhonskaya UkraIne

asger juel larsen DenMark

Maya hansen SpaIn


#175 Dtp:204 Page:325

288-325_24950.indd 325 5/9/11 6:55:48 PM


326-359_24950.indd 326 5/9/11 7:09:57 PM

326 Fashion Details

(Text)

In this last chapter we will focus on the sewing details that at times are less visible but no less important or significant when appreciating a garment. On the one hand, we will study pure sewing elements such as bust and hip darts and French seams, used in transparent garments, etc. This chapter includes all those elements that have traditionally been used to sculpt the silhouette and add the finishing touches to garments and now play an important role in the deconstructed

garment, in volumes, architectural forms, and asymmetries that are such a prominent feature in modern design. Lace edging, blond lace, or yokes complete this section along with different styles of embroidery, depending on the type of knot used in the work. This chapter also highlights the appliqué work, which is embroidered separately and then superimposed on the garment. It represents a fusion of details from the finest ateliers and the hardest working hands.

Sewing detailS


326-359_24950.indd 326 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM



326-359_24950.indd 327 5/9/11 7:09:57 PM

Sewing detailS

Elis

a Pa

lom

ino.

S/S

201

1. C

ibel

es M

adrid

Fas

hion

Wee

k.

(Text)(Fogra 39) 05-24950 JOB:04-24595 Title:RP-Detail in Fashion#175 Dtp:204 Page:326


326-359_24950.indd 327 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

907 908 909

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


326-359_24950.indd 328 5/9/11 7:10:01 PM

328 Fashion Details

(Text)

Cati Serrà SpaIn

the SwediSh SChool of textileS Sweden

eliSa Palomino SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 328 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

910 911 912

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



326-359_24950.indd 329 5/9/11 7:10:04 PM

Sewing Details 329

(Text)






326-359_24950.indd 329 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

913 914 915


326-359_24950.indd 330 5/9/11 7:10:08 PM

330 Fashion Details

(Text)

ana loCking SpaIn


marCel oStertag Germany


326-359_24950.indd 330 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

916 917 918



326-359_24950.indd 331 5/9/11 7:10:12 PM

Sewing Details 331

(Text)

ailanto SpaIn

deSignSkolen kolding denmark

maya hanSen SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 331 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

919 920 921


326-359_24950.indd 332 5/9/11 7:10:16 PM

332 Fashion Details

(Text)

VaSSilioS koStetSoS Greece

ada Zanditon Uk



326-359_24950.indd 332 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

922 923 924



326-359_24950.indd 333 5/9/11 7:10:20 PM

Sewing Details 333

(Text)

ali ChariSma IndOneSIa

a.f. VandeVorSt BeLGIUm

marta montoto SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 333 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

925 926 927


326-359_24950.indd 334 5/9/11 7:10:24 PM

334 Fashion Details

(Text)

karlota laSPalaS SpaIn

ailanto SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 334 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

928 929 930



326-359_24950.indd 335 5/9/11 7:10:28 PM

Sewing Details 335

(Text)


elena PrZhonSkaya UkraIne




326-359_24950.indd 335 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

931 932 933


326-359_24950.indd 336 5/9/11 7:10:32 PM

336 Fashion Details

(Text)

ion fiZ SpaIn


Bohento SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 336 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

934 935 936

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



326-359_24950.indd 337 5/9/11 7:10:35 PM

Sewing Details 337

(Text)


StaS loPatkin rUSSIa




326-359_24950.indd 337 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

937 938 939


326-359_24950.indd 338 5/9/11 7:10:40 PM

338 Fashion Details

(Text)

dimitri ITaLy

ailanto SpaIn

anjara SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 338 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

940 941 942

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



326-359_24950.indd 339 5/9/11 7:10:43 PM

Sewing Details 339

(Text)

juliuS Japan

Bohento SpaIn




326-359_24950.indd 339 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

943 944 945

© S

ebas

tien

Agn

etti


326-359_24950.indd 340 5/9/11 7:10:48 PM

340 Fashion Details

(Text)

eriCa ZaiontS UkraIne

mal-aimée France



326-359_24950.indd 340 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

946 947 948



326-359_24950.indd 341 5/9/11 7:10:51 PM

Sewing Details 341

(Text)



VaSSilioS koStetSoS Greece



326-359_24950.indd 341 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

949 950 951

© Y

anni

s V

lam

os


326-359_24950.indd 342 5/9/11 7:10:55 PM

342 Fashion Details

(Text)

maniSh arora IndIa

ada Zanditon Uk

ana loCking SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 342 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

952 953 954



326-359_24950.indd 343 5/9/11 7:11:00 PM

Sewing Details 343

(Text)


Craig lawrenCe Uk

ion fiZ SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 343 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

955 956 957


326-359_24950.indd 344 5/9/11 7:11:05 PM

344 Fashion Details

(Text)

ada Zanditon Uk

Craig lawrenCe Uk

ana loCking SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 344 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

958 959 960



326-359_24950.indd 345 5/9/11 7:11:11 PM

Sewing Details 345

(Text)

Craig lawrenCe Uk

BeBa’S CloSet SpaIn

Craig lawrenCe Uk



326-359_24950.indd 345 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

961 962 963


326-359_24950.indd 346 5/9/11 7:11:17 PM

346 Fashion Details

(Text)

mark faSt canada

riCardo dourado pOrTUGaL

Craig lawrenCe Uk


326-359_24950.indd 346 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

964 965 966

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



326-359_24950.indd 347 5/9/11 7:11:22 PM

Sewing Details 347

(Text)

mark faSt canada

ida SjöStedt Sweden

Craig lawrenCe Uk



326-359_24950.indd 347 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

967 968 969


326-359_24950.indd 348 5/9/11 7:11:27 PM

348 Fashion Details

(Text)

CarloS díeZ SpaIn

Craig lawrenCe Uk

ion fiZ SpaIn


326-359_24950.indd 348 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

970 971 972

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



326-359_24950.indd 349 5/9/11 7:11:32 PM

Sewing Details 349

(Text)

juliuS Japan

mark faSt canada

CarloS díeZ SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 349 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

973 974 975

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg


326-359_24950.indd 350 5/9/11 7:11:35 PM

350 Fashion Details

(Text)





326-359_24950.indd 350 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

976 977 978

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg

© K

ristia

n Lo

vebo

rg



326-359_24950.indd 351 5/9/11 7:11:38 PM

Sewing Details 351

(Text)



Camilla norrBaCk FInLand



326-359_24950.indd 351 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

979 980 981


326-359_24950.indd 352 5/9/11 7:11:42 PM

352 Fashion Details

(Text)

QaSimi UnITed araB emIraTeS

elena Skakun rUSSIa

VladiSlaV akSenoV rUSSIa


326-359_24950.indd 352 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

982 983 984



326-359_24950.indd 353 5/9/11 7:11:45 PM

Sewing Details 353

(Text)

ali ChariSma IndOneSIa


SPijkerS en SPijkerS The neTherLandS



326-359_24950.indd 353 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

985 986 987

© P

atric

e St

able

© P

atric

e St

able


326-359_24950.indd 354 5/9/11 7:11:50 PM

354 Fashion Details

(Text)

kriS Van aSSChe BeLGIUm

georgia hardinge Uk



326-359_24950.indd 354 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

988 989 990



326-359_24950.indd 355 5/9/11 7:11:54 PM

Sewing Details 355

(Text)

mark faSt canada


SPijkerS en SPijkerS The neTherLandS



326-359_24950.indd 355 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

991 992 993

© P

atric

e St

able


326-359_24950.indd 356 5/9/11 7:11:59 PM

356 Fashion Details

(Text)



georgia hardinge Uk


326-359_24950.indd 356 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

994 995 996

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r



326-359_24950.indd 357 5/9/11 7:12:03 PM

Sewing Details 357

(Text)

juliuS Japan





326-359_24950.indd 357 5/9/11 7:09:40 PM

997 998 999

© P

atric

e St

able

© E

tienn

e To

rdoi

r


326-359_24950.indd 358 5/9/11 7:12:08 PM

358 Fashion Details

(Text)

juliuS Japan

georgia hardinge Uk



326-359_24950.indd 358 5/9/11 7:09:41 PM

1000



326-359_24950.indd 359 5/9/11 7:12:09 PM

Sewing Details 359

(Text)

BiBian Blue SpaIn



326-359_24950.indd 359 5/9/11 7:09:41 PM


360-384_24950.indd 360 5/9/11 7:30:54 PM

360 Fashion Details

(Text)

A.F. VAndeVorstwww.afvandevorst.be

An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, A.F. Vandevorst, met in 1987 while studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. Later, An worked as chief assistant for Dries Van Noten and Filip worked as a freelance de-signer for fashion houses and as a stylist. In 1998, they joined forces to create a womenswear label, and since then they have presented their expressive collections bursting with personality in the Paris Fashion Week. They won the Venus Fashion Award for their debut on this runway.

AdA ZAnditonwww.adaz.co.uk

Ada Zanditon is a London-based designer who stud-ied at the London College of Fashion, specializing in women’s clothing. Throughout her career, she has worked in fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, and Gareth Pugh. She created her own company in 2008 with a distinctive ethnic flavor, and made her official runway debut at London Fashion Week, where she received rave reviews. She has also created costumes for musicians such as Patrick Wolf and celebrities such as Dita Von Teese and Lois Winstone.

AgAnoVichwww.aganovich.com

Aganovich is the womenswear clothing label based in London designed by Nana Aganovich with narrative and conceptual influences devised by Brooke Taylor. Nana is a graduate of Dansk Designskole, with a masters from Central Saint Martins. Taylor is a former essayist and contributor for international literary and fashion maga-zines. After having presented collections at London Fashion Week, Aganovich has shown at Paris Fashion Week since 2009.


360-384_24950.indd 360 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.afvandevorst.be

www.adaz.co.uk

www.aganovich.com



360-384_24950.indd 361 5/9/11 7:30:57 PM

Biographies 361

(Text)

AilAntowww.ailanto.com

Ailanto is the label created by the twin bothers Iñaki and Aitor Muñoz. Born in Bilbao, Spain in 1968, the designers moved to Barcelona where they graduated in fine arts at the University of Barcelona UB. Iñaki complemented his studies with a degree in fashion design. The label’s elegant collections are renowned for their geometric forms and artistic or cinematographic references. The collections have been sold internationally since 1995 with acclaimed runway presentations in Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week since 2001.

AlenA AkhmAdullinA www.alenaakhmadullina.com

The Russian designer Alena Akhmadullina is a Saint Petersburg Technology and Design Academy graduate. She presented her first prêt-à-porter collection at Paris Fashion Week in 2005 and since then she has presented a new collection on the French runway each season. In 2007, Alena opened an office in Moscow and opened her first store in the center of the city the following year. Alena Akhmadullina collections constitute a unique universe that combines Russian audacity with a Parisian sense of style.

Ali chArismAwww.alicharisma.com

Ali Charisma’s label began more than seven years ago, when he opened his first store in Seminyak, Indonesia. His design is characterized by the extreme opposition of color and texture. After achieving a balance between business and creativity, he began to show collections at fashion weeks in Bali, Jakarta, Hong Kong, and Kuala Lumpur. His position in Bali as the president of the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association allows him to actively participate in developing fashion design in his country.



360-384_24950.indd 361 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.ailanto.com

www.alenaakhmadullina.com

www.alicharisma.com


360-384_24950.indd 362 5/9/11 7:31:01 PM

362 Fashion Details

(Text)

AmericAn PéreZwww.americanperez.es

American Pérez is the brainchild of Natalia Pérez and Jorge Bolado Moo. Natalia is a graduate of the ESDi School of Design in Barcelona and the University of Southampton; Jorge has a degree in fine arts from the University of Vigo and went on to receive a master’s degree in styling from the Escola BAU in Barcelona, Spain. Together they created American Pérez in 2008, and have presented collections in Createurope Berlin and in El Ego de Cibeles, where they won the L’Oréal prize for the best fall/winter 2011 collection. They have also been finalists for the ModaFAD awards.

AnA locking www.analocking.com

Ana González created Locking Shocking in 1996. For ten years, before the dissolution of the company, she recei-ved awards as the Prix de la moda Marie Claire for the best national designer in 2004. She founded her new label Ana Locking in 2008. Her debut collection won the L’Oréal Paris Award for the best collection from Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. In 2009, she presented her collection in the New York Public Library during New York Fashion Week and won the Cosmopolitan Award for the best designer of the year.

AnjArAwww.anjara.com

Anjara García was born in Seville, Spain, and now resides in Shanghai, China where she combines her role as a designer with her role as a DJ playing music in the best clubs. She studied Fashion Design at the Llotja School of Art and Design in Barcelona, Spain. In 2003, she opened her showroom in Seville, Spain and has since presented collection on runways such as Atmosphère in Paris, SIMM in Madrid, and in shows such as Bread & Butter Berlin and Who’s Next in Paris. In 2006, she opened her own store in Madrid and we can now see her designs at Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week.


360-384_24950.indd 362 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.americanperez.es

www.analocking.com

www.anjara.com



360-384_24950.indd 363 5/9/11 7:31:03 PM

Biographies 363

(Text)

AnnA miminoshViliwww.a-nic-o.com

The Russian designer Anna Miminoshvili inherited her talent from her architect parents. In her collections, she expresses her taste through architectural forms and elegant lines. Anna graduated from the A. N. Kosygin Moscow State Textile University, she then continued her studies at the University of Fashion in Lyon, France and the Academy of Design in Lodz, Poland. In 2010, she founded her own label, whose success has led her to show collections in the Russian Fashion Week and the Volvo-Moscow Fashion Week.

Antonio AlVArAdowww.antonioalvarado.es

Antonio Alvarado from Alicante, Spain moved to Madrid in the eighties, where he revolutionized the way of pre-senting collections in clubs and designed costumes for movies such as those of Pedro Almodóvar. He has been a fixture at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week since 1984 and his collections, characterized by a meticulous pattern design and attention to detail, have appeared in the pages of the likes of Vanity Fair. For five years, he was the president of ModaFAD, a launching pad for young fashion designers.

Asger juel lArsen www.asgerjuellarsen.com

Since graduating with a BA in menswear from London College of Fashion, the Danish designer Asger Juel Larsen has enjoyed a lot of media attention as well as being listed amongst the finalists at the prestigious Mittelmoda awards. His collections explore expressions of masculine strength marked by hard contrasts, such as stiff structures with delicate fabrics. This dichotomy is also reflected through futuristic materials such as leather, PVC, rubber cords, and different types of metal.



360-384_24950.indd 363 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.a-nic-o.com

www.antonioalvarado.es

www.asgerjuellarsen.com


360-384_24950.indd 364 5/9/11 7:31:06 PM

364 Fashion Details

(Text)

Asher leVinewww.asherlevine.com

Born in Florida, U.S., Asher developed a fascination with fashion from an early age. In 2006, he moved to New York, where he studied managerial entrepreneurship at Pace University. During the same time Asher began to independently create conceptual designs that could be seen on different personalities across the New York underground club circuit. With several menswear collections on the market, Asher defies fashion industry standards and the physical limitations of the garments.

BeBA’s closetwww. bebascloset.com

In 2002, the Spanish designer Belén Barbero decided to renounce her career as an economist and devote her time entirely to fashion. She studied at the Istituto Eu-ropeo di Design in Madrid, Spain and in her last year she won the prize for best collection awarded by Burberry. After working for several labels, she opened her own atelier in Madrid in 2006 and since 2010 she has taken part in runways such as El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, with very fresh and feminine concepts. Currently she is working with the designer Miguel Palacio.

BernArd chAndrAn www.bernardchandran.com

At age sixteen he began studying Fashion Design in Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. After perfecting his technique in Paris, France he returned home to open a small store in 1993, now a couture house with very loyal followers. Awards such as the Look of the Year from the Open European Contest or Designer of the Year at the Malaysian International Fashion Awards support his successful career. He is also a major television person-ality as he has taken the part of mentor in the reality show Project Runway Malaysia.


360-384_24950.indd 364 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.asherlevine.com

www. bebascloset.com

www.bernardchandran.com



360-384_24950.indd 365 5/9/11 7:31:10 PM

Biographies 365

(Text)

BiBiAn Bluewww.bibianblue.com

Bibian Blue, a native of Barcelona, Spain, trained as a graphic designer in the Escola Massana in her hometown, and completed a number of courses at the Academia Internacional de la Moda and later postgraduate work at FD Moda. She is an icon of vintage, retro and bur-lesque aesthetics, and the corset is her fetish garment. In 2000, she launched her successful first collection and now has points of sale throughout Europe, worldwide online distribution, and a boutique-atelier in the center of Barcelona.

Bohentowww.bohento.com

Cuca Ferrá studied Fashion Design, specializing in leather, at the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda in Madrid, Spain. Later, she worked for several fashion labels and furthered her studies in plastic arts. In 2008, together with her former partner Pablo de la Torre, she created Bohento. They present their very individual collections at the El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. Currently, Cuca is going solo at the forefront of Bohento while working as a fashion design professor at the Polytechnic University of Madrid.

BorA Aksu www.boraaksu.com

London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu graduated from Central Saint Martins. His graduation runway show won the sponsorship that prompted him to create his own brand, whose debut was the fall/winter 2003 collection during London Fashion Week. The Guardian rated his runway presentation as “one of the top five shows in London.” Since then, he has received the New Generation Award four times from the British Fashion Council.



360-384_24950.indd 365 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.bibianblue.com

www.bohento.com

www.boraaksu.com


360-384_24950.indd 366 5/9/11 7:31:13 PM

366 Fashion Details

(Text)

cAmillA norrBAck www.camillanorrback.com

At the age of thirteen Camilla Norrback, born in Finland and now settled in Switzerland, got her first sewing machine and since then she knew that she wanted to dedicate her life to fashion. Camilla Norrback is a well-known label in Switzerland and has been nominated for major fashion awards. Since 2002, Camilla has been committed to creating ecologically sustainable garments called Ecoluxury. In addition to the female collection that she presents at the Stockholm Fashion Week, she created a male line, Norrback, in 2010.

cArlos díeZwww.myspace.com/diezdiez

Carlos Díez Díez was born in Bilbao, Spain, but moved to Madrid, where he now has his studio-atelier. His style is totally creative and original. He has worked for designer Antonio Alvarado and since 2006 he has created a sportswear collection each season for the American label Converse. In 2004, he began to show-case his collections at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, where he won the L’Oréal award for the best collection in 2006. In 2009 he opened his first store in the Spanish capital.

cAti serràwww.catiserra.com

Cati Serrà was born in Majorca, Spain. She is a gradu-ate from the ESDi School of Design in Barcelona, Spain receiving the Gold Medal for the best student in her class. She interned with Miguel Adrover and in 2008, she worked alongside him for the presentation of his collection at New York Fashion Week. That same year she founded her menswear and womenswear label, known for its comfort, elegance, and careful design. She shows her collections at El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week.


360-384_24950.indd 366 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.camillanorrback.com

www.myspace.com/diezdiez

www.catiserra.com



360-384_24950.indd 367 5/9/11 7:31:16 PM

Biographies 367

(Text)

chArlie le mindu www.charlielemindu.com

Charlie Le Mindu was born in France. He was a hair-dressing prodigy during his time at the French Hair Academy until he became a fashion stylist in Berlin, a true master of haute-coiffure. In 2009, he wowed with his first fashion collection at London Fashion Week, with an immediate response from magazines around the world, such as Vogue Italia, Vogue Hommes Japan, and i-D. He currently is the star of a successful show on KonbiniTV, Charlie’s Treatment.

crAig lAurencewww.craiglawrence.co.uk

Craig Lawrence is a knitwear designer, born in Ipswich, United Kingdom, and based in London. He graduated from Central Saint Martins. Over six seasons, he pro-duced knitwear for Gareth Pugh, before establishing his own label. With his debut at London Fashion Week, Craig was awarded the New Generation sponsorship by the British Fashion Council, a support he has had for four seasons. He has recently participated in London Show Rooms, an initiative that encourages the presence of young London designers in New York.

dAwid tomAsZewskiwww.dawid-tomaszewski.com

Dawid was born in Poland. He studied at the London College of Fashion and the Akademie der Künste in Berlin, having studied art history at Poznan. During his studies, he worked for Sonia Rykiel and when he finished, he worked for companies such as Reebok, in Boston, and Comme des Garçons, in Paris, until he founded his own label in 2009. His first collection won the Young Designer Award at Berlin Fashion Week. Tomaszewki’s proposals have been influenced by art, architecture, and a passion for jazz.



360-384_24950.indd 367 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.charlielemindu.com

www.craiglawrence.co.uk

www.dawid-tomaszewski.com


360-384_24950.indd 368 5/9/11 7:31:18 PM

368 Fashion Details

(Text)

designskolen koldingwww.designskolenkolding.dk

Danish design represents a mark of quality and a reputa- tion that goes far beyond the borders of its country. The work of Designskolen Kolding helps to strengthen the position of Danish fashion design, both nationally and internationally, by training young designers at the forefront of Danish fashion and by creating interesting concepts and proposals. His collections, presented at the Copenhagen Fashion Week, stand out for their studied pattern design, impossible shapes, and sur-prising details. The following designers are featured in this book: Beate GodagerAnne Mette Kjærgaard JensenMette Daring fashion & Mette Gliemann textileMette Marie Krarup BertelsenLinda GunnarssonSidse BordalSiff Pristed NielsenSophie LassenLisbeth Grosen NielsenAlexandra LindekBetina MøllerAnja Merete Larsen

diAnA dorAdowww.dianadorado.com

The Colombian designer Diana Dorado is based in Barcelona, Spain where she studied fashion design at the ESDi School of Design. She has won the Moda-FAD award for best designer and has participated in the 080 Barcelona Fashion, the Pasarela Abierta de Murcia, and El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. Diana Dorado has earned herself a place among the great revelations of Spanish fashion with colorful, urban, and very feminine designs.


360-384_24950.indd 368 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.designskolenkolding.dk

www.dianadorado.com



360-384_24950.indd 369 5/9/11 7:31:20 PM

Biographies 369

(Text)

dimitri By dimitrios PAnAgiotoPouloswww.bydimitri.com

The Greek-Italian designer Dimitri Panagiotopoulos from the South Tyrol studied at the famous fashion school ESMOD and later earned a master’s degree in fashion design at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy. After working for prestigious labels like Jil Sander, Hugo Boss, and Vivienne Westwood, he opened his first store in the center of Merano, Italy, and currently presents two annual collections of harmonic and feminine gar-ments at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

ek thongPrAsertwww.ekthongprasert.be

Ek Thongprasert was born in Bangkok, Thailand. After completing his first degree in architecture, he attend-ed one of the most famous fashion schools, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, which has produced many famous designers. In 2008, he created his eponymous label with a strong conceptual approach, along with jewelry designer Noon Passama, whom he met during his first degree at the University of Chulalongkorn, one of the most prestigious in Thailand.

elenA PrZhonskAyAwww.przhonskaya.com

Elena Przhonskaya was born in Ukraine. She graduated from the Kyiv National University of Technology and Design in 2007. During her studies, she won several competitions for young designers in Ukraine and Russia and participated in the nationally televised project PRO-fashion. After graduating, she opened her own studio in the center of Kiev with the aim of developing a strong brand with an international vision. Since then Elena has been a regular at the Ukrainian Fashion Week.



360-384_24950.indd 369 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.bydimitri.com

www.ekthongprasert.be

www.przhonskaya.com


360-384_24950.indd 370 5/9/11 7:31:23 PM

370 Fashion Details

(Text)

elenA [email protected]

The Russian designer Elena Skankun boasts an excellent track record. She won the Russian Silhouette in 2003 and has presented collections on international runways such as Roma Altamoda, thanks to an internship in the Saga Design Center of Saga Furs. She is also the director of the Khanty-Mansiysk International Fashion institution. Her collections, present at the Moscow Fashion Week, stand out for their elegance and mastery of her favorite materials, tulle and leather.

elisA PAlominowww.elisapalomino.com

This Valencian studied at Central Saint Martins in London. After several years working at Moschino, she moved to Paris. For eight years she was director of the John Galliano studio, while also working at the Christian Dior Haute Couture collection. In 2008, after collaborating with Roberto Cavalli, she moved to New York to become vice president of design for Diane von Furstenberg. In 2010, she created her own label and showed her collections in New York and Cibeles Madrid Fashion Weeks.

ericA ZAionts www.ericazaionts.com

A Ukrainian designer based in Moscow, Erica Zaionts graduated from the A. N. Kosygin Moscow State Textile University. Her label is a family business founded in 2001 and among its main virtues are its self-made manufacturing. Erica is considered as one of the few Russian designers who creates top quality prêt-à-porter clothing. Her collections, shown at Moscow Fashion Week, are characterized by their powerful image and recognizable style that is based on the practicality of forms.


360-384_24950.indd 370 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.elisapalomino.com

www.ericazaionts.com



360-384_24950.indd 371 5/9/11 7:31:25 PM

Biographies 371

(Text)

ewA i wAllAwww.ewaiwalla.se

The Swedish womenswear label Ewa i Walla was established in the early nineties. The designer Ewa Iwalla creates unique garments inspired by the romanticism of the seventeenth century, haute couture, and rural culture, and always seeks to achieve an unexpected result. Her collections, distinguished by natural fab-rics like cotton, linen, silk, and wool, are showcased at Stockholm Fashion Week and are present in eighteen countries through some 320 establishments, including two of her own stores in Stockholm.

g.V.g.V.www.gvgv.jp

Mug, the Japanese designer behind G.V.G.V., graduated from the Kuwasawa Design School. The label, founded in 1999, stands out for its mix of masculinity and femininity, and conveys great sensitivity each season. G.V.G.V. is one of the most sought after fashion labels in Tokyo and is a regular during Japan Fashion Week. In addition, Mug is a regular contributor injecting her creativity into other fashion houses.

georgiA hArdinge www.georgiahardinge.co.uk

Born in London, the daughter of Lord Nick Hardinge and Baroness Florence von Oppenheim grew up trav-eling and developing her fascination with fashion. She studied at Parsons School in Paris and won the Golden Thimble for her graduation collection. After her return to London, she founded her label in 2009. The launch of her debut collection took place in the independent ON|OFF runway during London Fashion Week. With the experience of several collections behind her, Georgia has achieved an elegant style marked by architectural touches.



360-384_24950.indd 371 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.ewaiwalla.se

www.gvgv.jp

www.georgiahardinge.co.uk


360-384_24950.indd 372 5/9/11 7:31:27 PM

372 Fashion Details

(Text)

hArryhAlim www.hhharryhalim.com

Born in Indonesia and now based in Paris, his first collection won the Asian Young Fashion Designers Contest and he was a finalist in the Mercedes-Benz Asia Fashion Awards in 2005. Later he designed for a commercial fashion house while working on his own collections and perfecting his meticulous technique. In 2008, Harry Halim was awarded Best Young Asian Designer of the Year, which catapulted him to Paris where he currently shows his modern and romantic collections with a halo of dark sensuality.

hAsAn hejAZiwww.hasanhejazi.co.uk

Hasan Hejazi was born in Manchester, England. He studied Fine Arts for three years and then decided to move into Fashion Design at Manchester Metropolitan University. He completed a masters in fashion design from London College of Fashion. His graduation collec-tion was a success: he was a finalist in Manchester Awards for the best designer fashion and showcased his collec-tion at Harrods Launches. His second collection has an army of celebrity followers, including Kylie Minogue.

idA sjöstedtwww.idasjostedt.com

Ida Sjöstedt was born in Stockholm, Sweden. She moved to London and graduated in fashion design at Westminster University. In 2001, Ida returned to Sweden and in August of that year she launched her first collec-tion during Stockholm Fashion Week. She has become a regular on this runway since then and also exhibits in Paris during the prêt-à-porter fashion weeks. The combination of tasteful kitsch and elegance describe Ida’s design philosophy. Her aim is to create beautiful clothes for women who want fashion to be fun.


360-384_24950.indd 372 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.hhharryhalim.com

www.hasanhejazi.co.uk

www.idasjostedt.com



360-384_24950.indd 373 5/9/11 7:31:30 PM

Biographies 373

(Text)

ion FiZ www.ionfiz.com

Ion Fiz was born in Bilbao, Spain. He studied at the International School of Fashion Design and Moda Lanca in his native city and has worked for companies such as Karhu, Bonaventure, Elisa Amann, and the renowned Pertegaz. After launching his own label, his career has been unstoppable, and has won awards such as the FAD Award for Best Designer, the Prix de la Moda Marie Claire and the L’Oréal Paris Cibeles prize. His proposals have a unique and sophisticated hallmark, which he shows season after season at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week.

j js leewww.jsleelondon.com

Jackie JS Lee, born in Seoul, Korea, moved to London to study a postgraduate degree in pattern design at Central Saint Martins. After two years as a pattern designer for Kisa London, she returned to the same school to complete a master’s degree. Her graduate collection received rave reviews from the press and buyers, and she was awarded the revered Harrods Award. Later she launched her label J JS Lee, featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces designed for mod-ern, feminine women.

jeAn//PhilliPwww.jeanphillip.dk

Jean//phillip is a fashion label based in Copenhagen and founded by Jean-Phillip in 2007. The main objec-tive of the label is menswear, but each collection also includes a few outfits for women. The Jean//phillip label is both modern and minimalist with a slim cut to create a sense of subtle androgyny suitable for both men and women. Classic tailoring, haute couture, and attention to detail are the hallmarks of the designer and his work.



360-384_24950.indd 373 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.ionfiz.com

www.jsleelondon.com

www.jeanphillip.dk


360-384_24950.indd 374 5/9/11 7:31:33 PM

374 Fashion Details

(Text)

juAnjo oliVAwww.juanjooliva.com

Juanjo Oliva was born in Madrid. He graduated with a degree in fashion design from the Institución Artística de Enseñanza and took a course in fashion illustration at Parsons School of Design in New York. During the nine-ties he worked for companies such as Isabel Berz, Zara, Helena Rohner, Antonio Pernas, Sybilla, and Amaya Arzuaga. In 2000, he opened his store in Madrid and since 2003 he has showcased his collections at Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. He has received awards such as the Best L’Oréal Collection, which he has been awarded twice, and the T de Telva for the Best National Designer.

juliuswww.julius-garden.jp

The Japanese designer Tastsuro Horikawa started his own line in 1996, creating his first fashion company, Nuke. In 2001, Julius was born as an art project that eventually became a large fashion project combined with video art. Its first appearance was in 2004 in Tokyo Collection. It has become a cult label on account of its gothic style, with black as its trademark color, exploring the spiritual and modern side of the designer.

kArlotA lAsPAlAs www.karlotalaspalas.com

Karlota Laspalas was born in Pamplona, Spain. Since graduating from the Felicidad Duce School of Fashion and Design, her career has known no limits. She has presented her collections on runways such as 080 Barcelona Fashion, where she received the award for best menswear collection, El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, Creamoda in Bilbao, Createurope in Berlin, and Mittelmoda in Gorizia, Italy. Her designs, with a bohemian-urban style, have won over both the public and press wherever she exhibits.


360-384_24950.indd 374 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.juanjooliva.com

www.julius-garden.jp

www.karlotalaspalas.com



360-384_24950.indd 375 5/9/11 7:31:36 PM

Biographies 375

(Text)

kris VAn Asschewww.krisvanassche.com

Born in Belgium, Kris Van Assche is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium and later joined Hedi Slimane’s team at YSL in Paris. When Slimane joined Dior Homme in 2003, Van Assche followed suit. In 2005, he created his own label and in 2007 he was appointed artistic director of Dior Homme, combining both jobs perfectly. Kris Van Assche has a unique approach to sportswear, blending luxurious and functional materials for a modern and sophisticated man.

lemonieZwww.lemoniez.com

Fernando Lemoniez was born in San Sebastian, Spain where, in 1985, he opened a boutique-atelier with his own collections. He later moved to Paris, and attended a training course at Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture and presented his collections within the official calen-dar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. Between 1991 and 1998, he joined forces with Miguel Palacio to create Palacio & Lemoniez, a label that used to show-case its collections at Cibeles Madrid, where he has presented his solo runway shows since 1999.

mAison mArtin mArgielA www.maisonmartinmargiela.com

The label was founded in 1988 by Martin Margiela, a graduate from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium and creative director of Hermès, and Jenny Meirens, assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier. A must-have collection at Paris Fashion Week, and having celebrated its twentieth anniversary, Maison Martin Margiela continues to wow with unique propositions and international repercussions. With Renzo Rosso now at the forefront of the label, a new era of creative identity can be expected without overlooking the essence of the mythical house.



360-384_24950.indd 375 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.krisvanassche.com

www.lemoniez.com

www.maisonmartinmargiela.com


360-384_24950.indd 376 5/9/11 7:31:40 PM

376 Fashion Details

(Text)

mAl-Aiméewww.mal-aimee.com

Léonie Hostettler and Marius Borgeaud met in ateliers of the Geneva University of Art and Design. They have been working together since their begin-nings at Nina Ricci with Olivier Theyskens. In 2010, they presented their first womenswear collection in Paris under the name of Mal-Aimée. They experiment with volumes and lines, paying particular attention to the choice of colors and fabrics. Simultaneously poetic, romantic, sporty, and urban, their proposals oscillate between extreme femininity and elegant androgyny.

mAlini rAmAni www.maliniramani.com

Born in New York, Malini Ramani spent a few years in India and then returned to her hometown to study fashion buying and merchandising at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She then decided to create her own label in India. Her philosophy is to design clothes that she would wear herself. She believes in glamorous, vibrant colors and plunging necklines. She has her own stores in India and Bali, and her collections are sold in cities around the world, including Hong Kong, Monte Carlo, and New York.

mAlAFAchA BrAndmalafacha.blogspot.com

The Mexican designers Francisco Saldaña and Víctor Hernal are the duo behind Malafacha Brand, a male and female clothing label. Francisco studied fashion design and Victor studied visual communication, and both disciplines have helped in developing a product with a very personal style. Winners of the prize for best womenswear collection in the Mexico Fashion Awards for their fall/winter 2008/2009 collection, they present their collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico.


360-384_24950.indd 376 5/9/11 7:30:35 PM

www.mal-aimee.com

www.maliniramani.com



360-384_24950.indd 377 5/9/11 7:31:42 PM

Biographies 377

(Text)

mAnish ArorAwww.manisharora.ws

Manish Arora is considered the John Galliano of India. He studied at the National Institute of Fashion Tech- nology and founded his firm in 1997. In 2002, he opened his first store in New Delhi and the following year another one in Bombay. His success and international prestige and his regular presence in the fashion weeks in India and London led him to open new stores and to sell in more than eighty stores worldwide. His blend of Indian tradition with western silhouettes and eccentric colors are the trademarks of the label.

mArcel ostertAgwww.marcelostertag.com

Marcel Ostertag was born in Berchtesgaden, Germany. After completing his studies in ESMOD Munich, he graduated from Central Saint Martins. He then decid-ed to create his own label, whose spectacular debut in 2006 was praised by the press and recognized with awards such as Moët & Chandon Fashion Debut and the Karstadt New Generation Award. Today, he has his own store in Munich and his collections are presented dur-ing the official calendar of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

mArk FAst www.markfast.net

The Canadian knitwear designer Mark Fast studied for five years at Central Saint Martins in London. He has created knitwear for Bora Aksu, a collaboration that spanned three seasons, and has worked with Stuart Vevers for the Loewe fall/winter 2009 show and with Christian Louboutin on shoes for his spring/summer 2010 collection. His collections, which combine differ-ent techniques and innovative materials, are exhibited at London Fashion Week and featured in magazines such as Vogue, i-D and Another Magazine.



360-384_24950.indd 377 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.manisharora.ws

www.marcelostertag.com

www.markfast.net


360-384_24950.indd 378 5/9/11 7:31:45 PM

378 Fashion Details

(Text)

mArtA montotowww.martamontoto.com

The young Spanish designer Marta Montoto, born in Galicia, comes from a family background in textile. Her family has worked in knitwear since the fifties, so she dares to experiment and redefine concepts using this technique that she dominates so well. She studied fashion design at ESDEGMA. After completing work experience in Armand Basi, she has decided to design highly creative collections for men, with naïve touches, which have earned her a place on runways such as El Ego de Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week.

mArtin lAmothewww.martinlamothe.es

Elena Martin was born in Barcelona, Span. She graduated from the Escola d’Arts i Tècniques de la Moda in her native city, and later studied art history and earned an honors degree at the Southampton Art School. She then moved to London and studied at Central Saint Martins. After graduation, Elena worked with Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, and Robert Cary-Williams. In 2006, she launched her label Martin Lamothe, with an impeccable career and appearances on runways in Berlin, Barcelona, Paris, and Madrid.

mAyA hAnsenwww.mayahansen.com

Maya Hansen was born in Madrid, Spain. She graduated with honors at the CSDMM in Madrid in 2002, after having already received some recognition. After experience in Javier Larraínzar’s atelier, she founded her label in 2004 and since 2006, she has specialized in corsetry. She has presented her proposals in fairs, such as Erotica UK, that bring together the world’s best corset makers and has earned her a spot in the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week calendar.


360-384_24950.indd 378 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.martamontoto.com

www.martinlamothe.es

www.mayahansen.com



360-384_24950.indd 379 5/9/11 7:31:49 PM

Biographies 379

(Text)

nereA lurgAinwww.nerealurgain.com

Nerea Lurgain was born in San Sebastian, Spain. She graduated in fine arts in Lejona and fashion design in IDEP Barcelona. Nerea works in different areas of design and art, which give her ideas, sources of inspiration, and design mechanisms that differentiate her with a unique and personal way to project items. She has presented collections at 080 Barcelona Fashion Week, the Dalian International Show in China, the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, and the China International Garment & Textile Fair.

omAr kAshourAwww.omarkashoura.com

Born in Leeds, United Kingdom of Arab descent, Omar Kashoura graduated with honors from the London College of Fashion with a collection that won him the award for best menswear designer in New York’s Gen Art Style. He worked for labels such as Preen and Un-conditional, and in 2006 he completed his masters at Central Saint Martins. Since the launch of his success-ful label, he has received awards such as the Deutsche Bank Pyramid Award and the NewGen from the British Fashion Council for two consecutive seasons.

QAsimiwww.qasimi.com

From the United Arab Emirates, Khalid Al Qasimi grew up influenced by the sophistication of the Middle East. In 2001, he graduated in Hispanic studies and French literature at University College London, and later decided to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins. Since 2008, he has presented several womens-wear and menswear collections in the London Fashion Week, and since 2009 he has been on the calendar of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Currently he concen-trates on men’s fashion.



360-384_24950.indd 379 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.nerealurgain.com

www.omarkashoura.com

www.qasimi.com


360-384_24950.indd 380 5/9/11 7:31:53 PM

380 Fashion Details

(Text)

ricArdo dourAdowww.ricardodourado.com

Ricardo Dourado was born in Portugal. He completed his studies in 2003 at CITEX Oporto. He has worked in studios such as Osvaldo Martins, Lidija Kolovrat, and Helena de Matos. In 2004, Ricardo established his own atelier, and has since presented his collections at ModaLisboa Fashion Week. He is also a member of the design team Polopique, a fashion company based in Portugal, Brazil, and Spain. His work conveys a casual elegance and challenges conventional forms

sinPAtronwww.sinpatron.com

As the name suggests, the Spanish company, created by Alberto Etxebarrieta from Bilbao, is characterized by modeling his garments, because it gives him greater freedom than patternmaking does. He studied tourism in his hometown and dramatic art in Edinburgh, until his life “without patterns” led him to fashion. He is self-taught and a craftsman. He created the label Sinpatron in 2004 and presents his collections at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week with bold, colorful and unisex concepts.

sPijkers en sPijkers www.spijkersenspijkers.nl

The Dutch twin sisters Truus and Riet created the label Spijkers en Spijkers in 2000, after graduating from the School of Arts in Arnhem. For their debut collection, they were awarded the Robijn Fashion Award, and they completed a master’s at the Fashion Institute in the same city. Inspired by their idols, Schiaparelli and Vionnet, they use their individuality with a common vision, thus achieving solid, clear, and geometric forms highlighting the female figure. They have presented their collections in London, Amsterdam, and Milan.


360-384_24950.indd 380 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.ricardodourado.com

www.sinpatron.com

www.spijkersenspijkers.nl



360-384_24950.indd 381 5/9/11 7:31:55 PM

Biographies 381

(Text)

stAs loPAtkinwww.lopatkin.ru

Stas Lopatkin was born in Leningrad, Russia. He studied at the School of Sewing and Graphic Arts Department of the Herzen State Pedagogical University of Russia. After graduating, he began with theatrical costume de-sign and private orders, until he created his own label in 2001. He made his debut in 2003 at the Saint Petersburg Fashion Week, and has since showcased his collections for the Russian and European public with proposals that always combine elegance and fine art as a hallmark.

the swedish school oF textileswww.hb.se

In the Swedish School of Textiles of the University of Borås, fashion design is understood in its broadest sense. The school provides a unique environment for reaching maturity as a designer and artist. This book features the collections created by designers who passed through its classrooms in recent years and who presented their collections in the spring/summer 2011 edition of Stockholm Fashion Week. The proposals and concepts are a sign of creativity and the immense talent of these young designers.Sara Andersson - PrepositionsJohanna Milvert - ViewElin Klevmar - EfterklangStina Randestad - BreedEmelie Johansson - Structure is everythingJennie Siljedahl - Control me as I control youElin Sundling - I paint myself into a cornerEllinor Nilsen - NobodiesCharlotta Mattsson - Welcome to UchroniaDavid Söderlund - HomageHelena Quist - Ubuntu



360-384_24950.indd 381 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.lopatkin.ru

www.hb.se


360-384_24950.indd 382 5/9/11 7:31:58 PM

382 Fashion Details

(Text)

VAssilios kostetsoswww.kostetsos.gr

Vassilios Kostetsos was born in Athens, Greece where his mother had a leading fashion import business. By the age of nine, he visited the studio and was enchant-ed with this magical world. In 1990, he created his own label and presented his first haute couture collection with excellent results. He has presented runway shows in places as special as the Central Railway Station of Athens, and his collections have received critical claim from followers in New York.

tsumori chisAto www.tsumorichisato.com

Born in Japan, Tsumori Chisato studied at the prestigious Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. She worked as head designer for the Issey Miyake Sports line, later renamed I. S. Chisato Tsumori Design. In 1990, she pre-sented her own collection, Tsumori Chisato, at Japan Fashion Week, where it was a total success. In 2003, she presented her menswear collection and became part of the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week with innovation, elegance, and fun as hallmarks.

tim VAn steenBergenwww.timvansteenbergen.com

The Belgian designer Tim Van Steenbergen graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. After-wards he studied draping and haute couture and worked as chief assistant for Olivier Theyskens. In 2002, he presented his first collection in Paris and created his own label. In addition to his magnificent collections, Tim creates costumes for major movie and theater productions worldwide. In 2009 he was voted best Belgian designer in the Elle Style Awards.


360-384_24950.indd 382 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.timvansteenbergen.com

www.tsumorichisato.com

www.kostetsos.gr



360-384_24950.indd 383 5/9/11 7:32:00 PM

Biographies 383

(Text)

Vrl collectionwww.vrl-collection.jimdo.com

Born in Cadiz, Spain, Paco Varela is the fashion design-er and stylist behind the firm VRL Collection, based in Madrid. After his experience working for the Portuguese designer Alexandra, he set up his own company. His collections have been presented in various editions of Pasarela Costello in Madrid, Jovens Criadores in Lisbon, and South 36-32N in Cadiz. He focuses on romantic and elegant collections for men and women with a pre-dominance of light and transparent fabrics.

VlAdislAV AksenoVwww.vladislavaksenov.com

The Russian designer Vladislav Aksenov created his menswear company in 2007. He broke conceptions with his first collection, zero zero one, in Saint Petersburg Fashion Week, with a style that blends luxury and military style. The label has two lines: the first, Vladislav Aksenov, for serious and respectable people; the sec-ond line, Varan, is for those who prefer an unusual and daring temperament. In addition, Vladislav also devotes part of his creative energy to interior design.

Victorio & lucchino www.victorioylucchino.com

José Luis Medina del Corral, from Seville, Spain and José Víctor Rodríguez, from Córdoba, Spain, created Victorio & Lucchino in the late seventies. There are six elements that define their unmistakable style: color, lace, embel-lishment defined by fringing, flounce, brides with their own identity, and the fusion of tradition from Southern Spain with cutting-edge fashion. Their proposals are shown each season at the Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week and have been presented on the runways of New York, Milan, Barcelona, Germany, and Japan, among others.



360-384_24950.indd 383 5/9/11 7:30:36 PM

www.victorioylucchino.com

www.vladislavaksenov.com

www.vrl-collection.jimdo.com

1,000 ideas from neckline to waistline, pockets to pleats-rockport publishers (2011).pdf

Documents