10 diy kettle bell

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10$ DIY "Kettle Bell"by actsofsubterfuge on May 8, 2008

Table of Contents

10$ DIY "Kettle Bell" ...........................................................................................................

Intro: 10$ DIY "Kettle Bell" ....................................................................................................

Step 1: Materials and tools ...................................................................................................

Step 2: Cut and weld rebar/pipe ................................................................................................

Step 3: Prepare the mold and add weight ........................................................................................

Step 4: Suspend, mix, pour ...................................................................................................

Step 5: Remove the mold and go wild ...........................................................................................

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................

Comments ................................................................................................................
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Intro: 10$ DIY "Kettle Bell"The "Kettle Bell" or Russian Kettle is a traditional training instrument developed in Russia and made famous by Pavel Tsatsouline and Valery Fedorenko. Basically it'sbig, iron ball with a handle that you swing around, lift and juggle. Kettle Bell workouts are fantastic exercise and are especially good for MMA training.

(For more information on Kettle Bells and what exactly you do with them, I recommend Crossfit.comand good old Wikipedia.)

Kettle Bells come in several sizes, but are generally measured in poods (1 pood = approximately 36 lbs). A 1 pood kettlebell will run you easily 50-60 dollars. The onethe photo is about 30 lbs, which is plenty to get you started, but you can feel free to add some more weight as you see fit. It cost me about 10 dollars to make (thoughsome materials and tools were free, so prices may vary)

I know what you're thinking: why not just use a dumbbell? Why does it have to be round? Aren't their better ways of doing this than using concrete? I don't really wantget into the physics of them too much, but basically the shape is essential for two reasons: 1, it needs to be able to 'swing' when you're holding the handle. Dumbbellsdon't do that. 2. the round shape is important for exercises like Turkish Getups and one-hand snatches because the weight ends up resting on your forearm and woul

get uncomfortable if it was just a plate.

This Instructable involves welding, bending and shaping metal at high temperatures and working with concrete. PLEASE follow all safety guidelines, know what you'redoing and wear appropriate protection when working with fire, welding gear and metal working tools. Also, exercise with kettlebells can be strenuous. Please consult aphysician before using this training aid. A homemade kettlebell is no substitute for a cast-iron one and it is possible for concrete to break off, etc. while using one. Pleabe aware of these dangers if you choose to proceed. I take no responsibility for misuse of the information provided in this tutorial.

Still with us? Let's get down to brass tax.

PS:this is my first instructable. I hope it passes muster.

Image Notes

1. I taped the corners because they were a little rough and because I didn't wantthe world to know how sloppy I was in my welding.

Step 1:Materials and toolsMaterials:-1 bag quikrete concrete mix (the "just add water" kind)-1 dollar store inflatable rubber ball-2.5 ft. #8 (1inch diameter) Rebar or steel pipe (with rebar you get extra weight, which means less concrete, which means it's more compact and easier to use. At the vleast, after you've bent the pipe, fill it with concrete to add weight.)-1-2 Small weight plates or rebar scraps (depending on how much weight you want to add. I used 5 lbs of rebar scraps tied together with some wire.)-Packing tape/duct tape-Water-Wire/string

Tools:-1 stick/arc welder with safety equipment.-OR--1 torch/forge setup capable of bending 1 in. rebar or steel pipe.-2 Buckets (1 for mixing, 1 for holding the mold)


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- 1 Hacksaw or other metal-cutting saw.-An Angle Grinder or Bench grinder would also be useful, but is not entirely necessary to the crafty maker.

Step 2:Cut and weld rebar/pipeUsing your hacksaw, cut the rebar into two 10-12 inch sections (sides) and 1 7-10 inch section (top) On the top piece, make sure you cut both ends at a 45ish angle, sthat the side pieces will be angled towards the center. Now weld the side pieces to the top piece and grind off any excess steel. You might want to wrap the corners intape just in case they're a litt le rough.

If you chose to go with the forge/torch option, basically just make the handle shape in the above proportions by bending a single long section of rebar. If you used steepipe, you can probably find corner fittings that will do the job and you can just solder them.

ANYWAY, you want the handle to be sturdy and you want the side pieces or 'arms' to extend a few extra inches so they can have some decent depth when you set thin concrete. Don't worry about getting it exact. Just try to make a handle that feels nice when you hold it (make sure it's big enough to hold in 2 hands as well).

Image Notes1. I taped the corners because they were a little rough and because I didn't want the world to know how sloppy I was in my welding.

Step 3:Prepare the mold and add weightTake your rubber ball and wrap it liberally in plastic packing tape or duct tape. This is to reinforce the rubber because it will warp significantly when you deflate it and pin the concrete. Leave two holes about 4 in. apart big enough to put the two arms of our rebar handle through. When it's pretty well covered, cut the holes out with a uknife and connect them with a slit. The ball will probably deflate a little, but the tape should keep most of it in place.

(see crappy MS Paint image for details)

Once you have the holes set up and the slit in the middle to pour the concrete in, thing set up, you can fill it with water to figure out exactly how much concrete you'll n

to mix, but be careful: the rubber is pretty fragile and even with the tape, it will rip easily.

To add weight, simply take your plates, scraps, etc. and attach them loosely to the bottom of the handle with wire. It doesn't have to be tight, it just has to be centeredbetween the arms at the bottom and not hanging too far down.

Put the mold in your f irst bucket and pad it with some newspaper to keep it centered.


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Image Notes1. Sorry about the crappy MS Paint diagram that looks like a monster a 3 year old drew.

Step 4:Suspend, mix, pourTake your handle and your mold and suspend the handle so that it is positioned in the mold in the position that you will want it in the final product. I just took two longpieces of string and tied them to some ceiling beams in my studio and t ied them to the corners of the handle until it hung parallel to the ground with the arms low enoudown to sit in the mold in the right place.

Dry fit the arms into the holes you have cut in the mold. Make sure the arms stick far enough down into the mold and that they are not so high up that you have a gianhandle.

Once it's all positioned, you can mix your concrete. I typically just mix by hand in a big bucket since it's only a small amount. Pour in however much you need to fill youmold. Add water until it is workable, but not watery. it doesn't have to be perfect, but the more water you have the weaker it will be when it dries and the harder it will bwork with.

Pour the concrete into the mold. You can cut the top off of a 2 liter bottle and use it as a funnel if you don't want to be messy, or you can just pour it in a scoop it out wyour hands. The ball will stretch slightly and flatten at the bottom. This is fine. you want it to sit flat on the ground. Once the ball is about full, position it under yoursuspended handle piece and lower it into the fil led mold. Reposition as necessary. Let set and dry for about a day (or more depending on concrete mix and water ratio


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Image Notes1. Overhead pipe, beam, etc.2. Cut on dotted line3. Bucket and newspaper will help the ball hold its form under the weight of the concrete.

Step 5:Remove the mold and go wildWhen the concrete has dried or at least cured to a reasonable strength, you can cut the mold away. You should have something that vaguely resembles a giant, conckettle.

A few additional problems I encountered:- when you cut the rubber ball, make sure you cut away the part that holds the air valve. The valve pokes out on the inside of the ball and will get stuck in your concret- You many wish to wrap the handle of this thing in some tape or cloth to make it a little less abrasive.- Adding weight is a good idea. It decreases the amount of concrete you need and makes the kettlebell smaller and more alike in form to the cast-iron ones that will ruyou like 50$

That's it! Hope you've enjoyed it. Go have some fun. Don't get hurt, etc.

Punx Win.Actsofsubterfuge


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Comments

20 comments Add Comment

actsofsubterfuge says: Aug 20, 2008. 8:14 AM REPThe "stone bell" design looks very impressive. I like the idea of coating the ball in plaster of paris to maintain the shape during molding. Covering the rebarwith rubber tubing is a good idea but over time it will probably wear away. I would try for a more permanent solution like angle grinding away the ribs on therebar or using bar-stock (more expensive, but smoother), or welding a piece of pipe over the handle. I wonder how he managed to bend it though... It's quidifficult without a forge/torch and an anvil.

crunchybunny says: Mar 3, 2011. 8:07 AM REPThere is a liquid rubber used to coat tool handles that could work well here. If it wears out you just paint more on the rebar. I've seen it in a few hardwastores.

Cervantes says: Apr 22, 2010. 12:40 PM REPAwesome idea. I've been trying to pull the trigger on a kettle bell for months now but couldn't justify the expense. Ithink you can save some work by gettingthe thinner diameter rebar that can be bent by hand and placing weight on the ends, then shoving it into the wet concrete (gently).

tbellsystems says: Jan 24, 2011. 6:37 PM REPHi Cervantes. I've been playing with several of the DIY kettlebells, and did not find anything good. A friend and I developed our own, check it out. http://bellsystems.com

Tim Temple says: Dec 2, 2010. 8:01 AM REPThis brings to mind making a cheap anchor to lock a bicycle to that has to be left outside. Few thieves have the muscles for the bike AND the anchor! But iis not permanent so it can be removed.

whitewolf88 says:Jun 19, 2010. 5:37 AM REP

just made one out of bits lying around my house, so was pretty much free! used a basket ball, just cut a slit in the top poured in concrete and stuck handle not spherical, but who cares, came out at about 12kgs.

Seezor says: Feb 27, 2010. 9:22 PM REPInstead of welding, could you just heat the rebar and bend it into the shape needed?To help keep your ball in shape in the bucket you could put moist sand in the bottom of the bucket, premolded to the shape of your air filled ball.The sandaround the bottom of the ball in the bucket should hold its shape.There is a product you could use on the your handle. I forget the name but it comes in a can and you can dip or paint items to leave them rubber coated.

Overall. Great Idea.Thanks for sharing.CS

adragonsrage says: Feb 28, 2010. 12:29 PM REPBah, you beat me to the torch.

Could also coil the bar to be cut inside the mold for more weight and save a garbage run, unless you have plans for it.

DEFDOM DELTA says: Sep 3, 2008. 8:15 AM REPAwesome Instructable! I don't weld unfortunately, so I'll probably use pipe and pipe fittings as an alternative. This is still great! Crossfit and homemadeequipment is always awesome to see!

jamiesoncostello says: Sep 3, 2008. 2:25 PM REPI intend on making an instructable sometime this week on how I made my kettlebells. Nothing but pipe fittings, just like you said.
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jamesccostello says: Sep 10, 2009. 11:15 AM REPI couldn't help but notice that your name is really close to mine.

DEFDOM DELTA says: Sep 3, 2008. 5:08 PM REPCool! Let me know when you put it up please.

jamesccostello says: Sep 10, 2009. 11:14 AM REPThis is perfect for a poor student like me. Thanks

Holden_vy_s says: Apr 4, 2009. 1:39 AM REPUsing an acetylene torch and bending the rebar would be neater.

codongolev says: Feb 15, 2009. 12:05 PM REPthe problem with this step is that people see the tape and think that's the only thing holding it. that's why no one wants to lay on my hammock, it looks heldtogether by tape.

surfreak says: Aug 19, 2008. 11:57 AM REPWELDING! DUH! God I had spent forever trying to think of a way to get a good handle covering on to bent rebar... I'll definitely be making one soon. Also,check out (wfs)

http://jawbonejournal.blogspot.com/2007/04/debut-of-stonebell.html

for more ideas.

surfreak says: Aug 19, 2008. 11:59 AM REPCrossfit FTW! Smoke you like cheap crack.

gman808 says: Aug 9, 2008. 12:04 PM REPnice bell, but the rebar is going to shred your hands if you are doing swings or snatches.

actsofsubterfuge says: Jun 2, 2008. 5:13 PM REPI agree, if I were to remake this I would probably use a more rigid mold (as you can see it kind of flattened a lot on the bottom, decreasing the volumesignificantly), such as plaster, which would add a good deal of weight. I also agree with the thicker handle idea. I basically just used the materials that wereavailable to me and the 1 in. rebar happened to be free : ) As long as you fill the pipe with concrete and then do something to the part that will be set in the

ball mold to make it stay (weld on some other pieces of steel, score it up with a saw, etc. so it's not perfectly smooth) it should be fine. Good luck if youdecide to give it a shot and thanks for the input!

ehmbee says: Jun 2, 2008. 9:03 AM REPThis is a pretty nice DIY kettlebell-they ARE expensive, and if you aren't sure if you are going to like working out til you vomit, this is a good way to test thewaters. 30 lbs is fine to start-I think Pavel recommends a 35 for men of "average strength"-and I think "average strength" is a relative term in our sedentaryworld. Only think I would do different is use some scrap pipe and elbows in a thicker diameter like 1 1/2"-this will additionally work the hands and force themto get stronger as you swing. The stronger your grip, the more you can lift.
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