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9

Front brakesDisc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266.0 mmDisc thickness:

New:Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mmVentilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.4 mm

Minimum thickness:Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mmVentilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mm

Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mmBrake pad minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Rear drum brakesDrum internal diameter:

New 228.6 mmMaximum diameter after machining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229.6 mm

Brake shoe lining minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Rear disc brakesDisc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247.0 mmDisc thickness:

New 8.0 mmMinimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm

Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mmBrake pad minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Chapter 9Braking system

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .23Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) components -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Front brake pad wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Handbrake - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Handbrake cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Handbrake “on” warning light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . .20Hydraulic fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”Hydraulic fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Rear brake pad wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Rear brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Rear brake pressure-regulating valve (underbody-mounted) -

removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Rear brake shoe wear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .12Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . .22Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Vacuum servo unit check valve - removal, testing and refitting . . . . .16

9•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

1 General information

The braking system is of the servo-assisted, dual-circuit hydraulic type. Thearrangement of the hydraulic system is suchthat each circuit operates one front and onerear brake from a tandem master cylinder.Under normal circumstances, both circuitsoperate in unison. However, in the event ofhydraulic failure in one circuit, full brakingforce will still be available at two wheels.

Some large-capacity engine models havedisc brakes all round as standard; othermodels are fitted with front disc brakes andrear drum brakes. ABS is fitted as standard tocertain models, and is offered as an option onmost other models (refer to Section 23 forfurther information on ABS operation).

The front disc brakes are actuated bysingle-piston sliding type calipers, whichensure that equal pressure is applied to eachdisc pad.

On models with rear drum brakes, the rearbrakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes,which are actuated by twin-piston wheelcylinders. On models not equipped with anunderbody-mounted rear brake pressureregulating valve, the wheel cylindersincorporate integral pressure-regulatingvalves, which control the hydraulic pressureapplied to the rear brakes. The regulatingvalves help to prevent rear wheel lock-upduring emergency braking. On some models,an underbody-mounted load-sensitive rearpressure-regulating valve is fitted. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, toautomatically compensate for brake shoewear. As the brake shoe linings wear, thefootbrake operation automatically operatesthe adjuster mechanism, which effectively

lengthens the shoe strut and repositions thebrake shoes, to remove the lining-to-drumclearance.

On models with rear disc brakes, thebrakes are actuated by single-piston slidingcalipers which incorporate mechanicalhandbrake mechanisms. A load-sensitivepressure-regulating valve is fitted to regulatethe hydraulic pressure applied to the rearbrakes. The regulating valve is similar to thatfitted to drum brake models with ABS, andhelps to prevent rear wheel lock-up duringemergency braking.

On all models, the handbrake provides anindependent mechanical means of rear brakeapplication.

Note: When servicing any part of thesystem, work carefully and methodically; alsoobserve scrupulous cleanliness whenoverhauling any part of the hydraulic system.Always renew components (in axle sets, whereapplicable) if in doubt about their condition,and use only genuine Peugeot replacementparts, or at least those of known good quality.Note the warnings given in “Safety first” and atrelevant points in this Chapter concerning thedangers of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

2 Hydraulic system - bleeding 2

General1 The correct operation of any hydraulicsystem is only possible after removing all airfrom the components and circuit; this isachieved by bleeding the system.2 During the bleeding procedure, add onlyclean, unused hydraulic fluid of therecommended type; never re-use fluid thathas already been bled from the system.Ensure that sufficient fluid is available beforestarting work.3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluidbeing already in the system, the brakecomponents and circuit must be flushedcompletely with uncontaminated, correctfluid, and new seals should be fitted to thevarious components.4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from thesystem, or air has entered because of a leak,ensure that the fault is cured beforeproceeding further.

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftHydraulic pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Front brake caliper:

Guide pin bolts (Girling caliper)** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Caliper mounting bolts (Bendix caliper):*^:

Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 77

Caliper mounting bracket bolts (Girling caliper):*^Early (solid) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89Later (hollow) type hub carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 77

Rear brake caliper:Guide pin bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26Caliper mounting bracket bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Master cylinder-to-servo unit nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Brake pedal pivot bolt nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Vacuum servo unit securing nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15ABS wheel sensor securing bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7ABS wheel sensor adjuster bolt (Bendix “integral” ABS) . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2ABS hydraulic modulator mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63*Use thread-locking compound.**Use new bolts coated with thread-locking compound^Refer to note in Chapter 10, Section 2.

9•2 Braking system

Warning: Hydraulic fluid ispoisonous; wash offimmediately and thoroughly inthe case of skin contact, and

seek immediate medical advice if any fluidis swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certaintypes of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,and may ignite when allowed into contactwith hot components; when servicing anyhydraulic system, it is safest to assume

that the fluid is inflammable, and to takeprecautions against the risk of fire asthough it is petrol that is being handled.Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paintstripper, and will attack plastics; if any isspilt, it should be washed off immediately,using copious quantities of fresh water.Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbsmoisture from the air) - old fluid may becontaminated and unfit for further use.When topping-up or renewing the fluid,always use the recommended type, andensure that it comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.

Warning: Do not attempt tobleed any part of the hydraulicsystem on models equippedwith the Bendix “integral” ABS.

Special equipment is required, and thetask must be referred to a Peugeot dealer.

5 Park the vehicle on level ground, switch offthe engine and select first or reverse gear, thenchock the wheels and release the handbrake.6 Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,unions tight and bleed screws closed. Cleanany dirt from around the bleed screws.7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap,and top the master cylinder reservoir up to the“MAX” level line; refit the cap loosely, andremember to maintain the fluid level at leastabove the “MIN” level line throughout theprocedure, or there is a risk of further airentering the system.8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-yourselfbrake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended thatone of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation,and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described indetail below.9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle asdescribed previously, and follow the kitmanufacturer’s instructions, as the proceduremay vary slightly according to the type beingused; generally, they are as outlined below inthe relevant sub-section.10 Whichever method is used, the samesequence must be followed to ensure theremoval of all air from the system.

Bleeding sequence

Conventional braking systema) Right-hand rear wheel.b) Left-hand front wheel.c) Left-hand rear wheel.d) Right-hand front wheel.

Bendix “additional” ABSNote: Before carrying out any bleeding,switch off the ignition, and disconnect the 3-pin brown wiring connector from the hydraulicmodulator assembly (see illustration).a) Rear brake furthest from master cylinder.b) Rear brake nearest master cylinder.c) Front brake furthest from master cylinder.

d) Front brake nearest master cylinder.e) Hydraulic modulator (see illustration).

Bosch “additional” ABSNote: Before carrying out any bleeding,switch off the ignition, and disconnect the 4-pin black wiring connector from the hydraulicmodulator assembly.a) Left-hand front wheel.b) Right-hand front wheel.c) Left-hand rear wheel.d) Right-hand rear wheel.

Note: If difficulty is experienced in bleedingthe hydraulic circuit on models with Bosch“additional” ABS, using the above sequence,try bleeding the complete system working inthe following order:a) Right-hand rear brake.b) Left-hand rear brake.c) Left-hand front brake.d) Right-hand front brake.

Bleeding - basic (two-man) method11 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable lengthof plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fitover the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fitthe screw. The help of an assistant will also berequired.12 Remove the dust cap from the first screwin the sequence (see illustrations). Fit thespanner and tube to the screw, place the

other end of the tube in the jar, and pour insufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.13 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoirfluid level is maintained at least above the“MIN” level line throughout the procedure.14 Have the assistant fully depress the brakepedal several times to build up pressure, thenmaintain it on the final downstroke.15 While pedal pressure is maintained,unscrew the bleed screw (approximately oneturn) and allow the compressed fluid and air toflow into the jar. The assistant should maintainpedal pressure, following it down to the floor ifnecessary, and should not release it untilinstructed to do so. When the flow stops,tighten the bleed screw again, have theassistant release the pedal slowly, andrecheck the reservoir fluid level.16 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 14and 15 until the fluid emerging from the bleedscrew is free from air bubbles. If the mastercylinder has been drained and refilled, and airis being bled from the first screw in thesequence, allow approximately five secondsbetween cycles for the master cylinderpassages to refill.17 When no more air bubbles appear, tightenthe bleed screw securely, remove the tubeand spanner, and refit the dust cap. Do notovertighten the bleed screw.18 Repeat the procedure on the remainingscrews in the sequence, until all air isremoved from the system and the brake pedalfeels firm again.

Bleeding - using a one-way valve kit19 As their name implies, these kits consistof a length of tubing with a one-way valvefitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid beingdrawn back into the system; some kits includea translucent container, which can bepositioned so that the air bubbles can bemore easily seen flowing from the end of thetube.20 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,which is then opened. The user returns to thedriver’s seat, depresses the brake pedal witha smooth, steady stroke, and slowly releasesit; this is repeated until the expelled fluid isclear of air bubbles (see illustration).21 Note that these kits simplify work so

Braking system 9•3

2.12a Bleed nipple (arrowed) on front disc caliper

2.12b Bleed nipple (arrowed) on rearwheel cylinder

2.10b Bleed the hydraulic modulator usingthe bleed screws (1) first, and (2) second -

Bendix “additional” ABS

2.10a Disconnect the 3-pin brown wiringconnector before bleeding the Bendix

“additional” ABS

9

much that it is easy to forget the mastercylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this ismaintained at least above the “MIN” level lineat all times.

Bleeding - using a pressure-bleeding kit22 These kits are usually operated by thereservoir of pressurised air contained in thespare tyre. However, note that it will probablybe necessary to reduce the pressure to alower level than normal; refer to theinstructions supplied with the kit.23 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filledcontainer to the master cylinder reservoir,bleeding can be carried out simply by openingeach screw in turn (in the specified sequence),and allowing the fluid to flow out until no moreair bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.24 This method has the advantage that thelarge reservoir of fluid provides an additionalsafeguard against air being drawn into thesystem during bleeding.25 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effectivewhen bleeding “difficult” systems, or whenbleeding the complete system at the time ofroutine fluid renewal.

All methods26 When bleeding is complete, and firmpedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,tighten the bleed screws securely, and refittheir dust caps.27 Check the hydraulic fluid level in themaster cylinder reservoir, and top-up ifnecessary (Chapter 1).28 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has beenbled from the system; it will not be fit for re-use.29 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If itfeels at all spongy, air must still be present inthe system, and further bleeding is required.Failure to bleed satisfactorily after areasonable repetition of the bleedingprocedure may be due to worn mastercylinder seals.30 On models with ABS, reconnect the wiringconnector to the hydraulic modulatorassembly.

3 Hydraulic pipes and hoses -renewal 4

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid.1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed,minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, then tighteningit down onto a piece of polythene to obtain anairtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses canbe sealed, if required, using a proprietarybrake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unionscan be plugged (if care is taken not to allowdirt into the system) or capped immediatelythey are disconnected. Place a wad of ragunder any union that is to be disconnected, tocatch any spilt fluid.2 If a flexible hose is to be disconnected,unscrew the brake pipe union nut beforeremoving the spring clip which secures thehose to its mounting bracket (seeillustration).3 To unscrew the union nuts, it is preferableto obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correctsize; these are available from most largemotor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required,though if the nuts are tight or corroded, theirflats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips.In such a case, a self-locking wrench is oftenthe only way to unscrew a stubborn union, butit follows that the pipe and the damaged nutsmust be renewed on reassembly. Alwaysclean a union and surrounding area beforedisconnecting it. If disconnecting acomponent with more than one union, make acareful note of the connections beforedisturbing any of them.4 If a brake pipe is to be renewed, it can beobtained, cut to length and with the unionnuts and end flares in place, from Peugeotdealers. All that is then necessary is to bend itto shape, following the line of the original,before fitting it to the car. Alternatively, mostmotor accessory shops can make up brakepipes from kits, but this requires very carefulmeasurement of the original, to ensure thatthe replacement is of the correct length. Thesafest answer is usually to take the original tothe shop as a pattern.

5 On refitting, do not overtighten the unionnuts. It is not necessary to exercise bruteforce to obtain a sound joint.6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses arecorrectly routed, with no kinks, and that theyare secured in the clips or brackets provided.After fitting, remove the polythene from thereservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2. Wash off any spiltfluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

4 Front brake pads - renewal 2

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Removethe front roadwheels.2 Trace the brake pad wear sensor wiringback from the pads, and disconnect it fromthe wiring connector (see illustration). Notethe routing of the wiring, and free it from anyrelevant retaining clips.3 Push the piston into its bore by pulling thecaliper outwards.4 There are two different types of front brakecaliper fitted to the models covered in thismanual as follows.a) Models with solid front discs -

Bendix calipers.b) Models with ventilated front discs -

Girling calipers.


4.2 Disconnecting the pad wear sensorwiring connector

3.2 Flexible hose-to-rigid pipe union atfront wheel arch

2.20 Using a one-man brake bleeding kiton a front caliper

Warning: Renew both sets offront brake pads at the sametime - never renew the pads ononly one wheel, as uneven

braking may result. Note that the dustcreated by wear of the pads may containasbestos, which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air, and don’tinhale any of it. An approved filteringmask should be worn when working onthe brakes. DO NOT use petrol orpetroleum-based solvents to clean brakeparts; use brake cleaner or methylatedspirit only.

Bendix caliperNote: A new pad retaining plate spring clipshould be used on refitting.5 Using pliers, extract the small spring clipfrom the pad retaining plate, and then slidethe plate out of the caliper (see illustrations).6 Withdraw the pads from the caliper, thenmake a note of the correct fitted position ofeach anti-rattle spring, and remove the springfrom each pad (see illustration).7 First measure the thickness of each brakepad’s friction material (see illustration). Ifeither pad is worn at any point to the specifiedminimum thickness or less, all four pads mustbe renewed. Also, the pads should be renewedif any are fouled with oil or grease; as there isno satisfactory way of degreasing frictionmaterial, once contaminated. If any of thebrake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouledwith oil or grease, trace and rectify the causebefore reassembly. New brake pads and springkits are available from Peugeot dealers.8 If the brake pads are still serviceable,carefully clean them using a clean, fine wirebrush or similar, paying particular attention tothe sides and back of the metal backing. Cleanout the grooves in the friction material, andpick out any large embedded particles of dirtor debris. Carefully clean the pad locations inthe caliper body/mounting bracket.9 Prior to fitting the pads, check that theguide pins are free to slide easily in the caliperbody/mounting bracket, and check that therubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged.Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper andpiston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious to

health. Inspect the dust seal around the pistonfor damage, and the piston for evidence offluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attentionto any of these components is necessary,refer to Section 10.10 If new brake pads are to be fitted, thecaliper piston must be pushed back into thecylinder to make room for them. Either use aG-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable piecesof wood as levers. Provided that the mastercylinder reservoir has not been overfilled withhydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage,but keep a careful watch on the fluid levelwhile retracting the piston. If the fluid levelrises above the “MAX” level line at any time,the surplus should be siphoned off or ejectedvia a plastic tube connected to the bleedscrew (see Section 2). Note: Do not syphonthe fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use asyringe or an old poultry baster.11 Fit the anti-rattle springs to the pads, sothat when the pads are installed in the caliper,the spring end will be located at the oppositeend of the pad in relation to the pad retainingplate.12 Locate the pads in the caliper, ensuringthat the friction material of each pad is againstthe brake disc, and check that the anti-rattlespring ends are at the opposite end of the padto which the retaining plate is to be inserted.Note that if the pads are installed correctly,looking at the pads from the front of thevehicle, the innermost pad groove must behigher than the outer pad groove. Ensure thatthe pads are fitted correctly beforeproceeding (see illustrations).

13 Slide the retaining plate into place, andinstall the new small spring clip at its innerend. It may be necessary to file an entrychamfer on the edge of the retaining plate, toenable it to be fitted without difficulty.14 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensorwiring connectors, ensuring that the outerwire is correctly routed through the anti-rattlespring loops, and that both wires passthrough the loop of the bleed screw cap.15 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, untilthe pads are pressed into firm contact withthe brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)pedal pressure is restored.16 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining front brake caliper.


4.6 Withdrawing the outer brake pad -Bendix caliper

4.12b Correct fitting of brake pads -Bendix caliper

4.12a Correct location of the anti-rattlesprings on Bendix brake pads

4.7 Measuring brake pad friction materialthickness

4.5b . . . then slide the pad retaining platefrom the caliper - Bendix caliper

4.5a Extract the spring clip (arrowed) . . .

9

B GroovesD Pad retaining plate spring clipV Bleed screw

17 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torquesetting.18 Check the hydraulic fluid level asdescribed in “Weekly Checks”.

Girling caliperNote: A new lower guide pin bolt must beused on refitting.19 Where applicable, prise off the dust cover,then slacken and remove the lower caliperguide pin bolt, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pin itself fromrotating (see illustration). Discard the guidepin bolt - a new bolt must be used on refitting.20 With the lower guide pin bolt removed,pivot the caliper upwards, away from thebrake pads and mounting bracket, taking carenot to strain the flexible brake hose (seeillustration).21 Withdraw the two brake pads from thecaliper mounting bracket, and examine themas described above in paragraphs 7 to 10.22 Apply a little brake grease to the rear ofthe pads, then Install the pads in the calipermounting bracket, ensuring that the frictionmaterial of each pad is against the brake disc(see illustration).23 Position the caliper over the pads, andpass the pad warning sensor wiring throughthe caliper aperture and underneath theretaining clip (see illustration). If the threadsof the new guide pin bolt are not already pre-

coated with locking compound, apply asuitable thread-locking compound to them.Pivot the caliper into position, then install theguide pin bolt, tightening to the specifiedtorque setting while retaining the guide pinwith an open-ended spanner. Whereapplicable, refit the dust cover to the guidepin.24 Reconnect the brake pad wear sensorwiring connector, ensuring that the wiring iscorrectly routed through the loop of thecaliper bleed screw cap.25 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly, untilthe pads are pressed into firm contact withthe brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)pedal pressure is restored.26 Repeat the procedure on the remainingfront brake caliper.27 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torquesetting.28 Check the hydraulic fluid level asdescribed in Chapter 1.

All calipers29 New pads will not give full brakingefficiency until they have bedded in. Beprepared for this, and avoid hard braking asfar as possible for the first hundred miles or soafter pad renewal.

5 Rear brake pads - renewal 2

Note: A new upper caliper guide pin bolt mustbe used on refitting.1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support securely onaxle stands (see “Jacking and VehicleSupport”). Remove the rear roadwheels.2 Disconnect the handbrake cable end fromthe operating lever on the caliper.3 Where applicable, prise off the dust cover,then slacken and remove the upper caliperguide pin bolt, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pin itself fromrotating. Discard the guide pin bolt - a newbolt must be used on refitting.4 With the upper guide pin bolt removed,pivot the caliper downwards, away from thebrake pads and mounting bracket, taking carenot to strain the flexible brake hose.5 Withdraw the brake pads from the calipermounting bracket.6 First measure the thickness of each brakepad’s friction material. If either pad is worn atany point to the specified minimum thicknessor less, all four pads must be renewed. Also,the pads should be renewed if any are fouledwith oil or grease; there is no satisfactory wayof degreasing friction material, oncecontaminated. If any of the brake pads areworn unevenly, or are fouled with oil orgrease, trace and rectify the cause beforereassembly. New brake pads are availablefrom Peugeot dealers.7 If the brake pads are still serviceable,carefully clean them using a clean, fine wirebrush or similar, paying particular attention tothe sides and back of the metal backing. Pickout any large embedded particles of dirt ordebris from the friction material. Carefullyclean the pad locations in the caliperbody/mounting bracket.8 Prior to fitting the pads, check that theguide pins are free to slide easily in the caliperbody/mounting bracket, and check that therubber guide pin gaiters are undamaged.Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper andpiston, but do not inhale it, as it is injurious tohealth. Inspect the dust seal around the pistonfor damage, and the piston for evidence of


4.19 Hold the pin guide pin with an open-ended spanner while slackening the guide

pin bolt - Girling caliper

4.22 Ensure that the brake pads are fittedthe correct way around, with friction

material facing the disc . . .

4.23 . . . then refit the caliper, feeding thepad wiring through the caliper aperture

4.20 Pivot the caliper upwards away fromthe brake pads - Girling caliper

Warning: Renew both sets ofrear brake pads at the sametime - never renew the pads ononly one wheel, as uneven

braking may result. Note that the dustcreated by wear of the pads may containasbestos, which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air, and don’tinhale any of it. An approved filteringmask should be worn when working onthe brakes. DO NOT use petrol orpetroleum-based solvents to clean brakeparts; use brake cleaner or methylatedspirit only.

fluid leaks, corrosion or damage. If attentionis necessary, see Section 11.9 If new brake pads are to be fitted, thecaliper piston must be pushed back into thecylinder to make room for them. Provided thatthe master cylinder reservoir has not beenoverfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should beno spillage, but keep a careful watch on thefluid level while retracting the piston. If thefluid level rises above the “MAX” level line atany time, the surplus should be siphoned offor ejected via a plastic tube connected to thebleed screw (see Section 2). Note: Do notsyphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous;use a syringe or an old poultry baster.10 Retract the caliper piston by applyingpressure, and turning it clockwise. A specialtool is available for this purpose but a pair ofcirclip pliers or any similar tool can be usedinstead. Take care not to damage the surfaceof the piston. Turn the piston to position thenotches in the piston on the centreline of theslot in the front of the caliper.11 Fit the pads, sliding them into position inthe caliper bracket, with the friction materialagainst the disc.12 If the threads of the new guide pin bolt arenot already pre-coated with lockingcompound, apply a suitable thread-lockingcompound to them. Pivot the caliper intoposition, then install the guide pin bolt,tightening to the specified torque setting whileretaining the guide pin with an open-endedspanner. Where applicable, refit the dustcover to the guide pin.13 Reconnect the handbrake cable to thecaliper.

14 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly untilthe pads are pressed into firm contact withthe brake disc, and normal (non-assisted)pedal pressure is restored.15 Repeat the procedure on the remainingrear caliper.16 Refit the roadwheels, then lower thevehicle to the ground.17 Check the hydraulic fluid level asdescribed in Chapter 1.18 New pads will not give full brakingefficiency until they have bedded in. Beprepared for this, and avoid hard braking asfar as possible for the first hundred miles or soafter pad renewal.

6 Rear brake shoes - renewal 3

1 Remove the brake drum (see Section 9).2 Working carefully, and taking the necessaryprecautions, remove all traces of brake dustfrom the brake drum, backplate and shoes.3 Measure the thickness of the frictionmaterial of each brake shoe at several points;if either shoe is worn at any point to thespecified minimum thickness or less, all fourshoes must be renewed as a set. The shoesshould also be renewed if any are fouled withoil or grease; there is no satisfactory way ofdegreasing friction material, oncecontaminated.4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly,or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectifythe cause before reassembly.5 To renew the brake shoes, proceed asdescribed under the relevant sub-heading.

Bendix brake shoesNote: The components encountered may varyin detail, but the principles described in thefollowing paragraphs are equally applicable toall models. Make a careful note of the fittedpositions of all components before dismantling.6 On early models, unhook the shoe retainersprings from the brake backplate using aforked tool similar to that shown. The tool canbe improvised using a screwdriver with anotch in the blade. The tool is pushed throughthe centre of the spring, and the spring hookcan then be released from the backplate (seeillustrations).7 On later models, using a pair of pliers,remove the shoe retainer spring cups bydepressing and turning them through 90º (seeillustration). With the cups removed, lift offthe springs and withdraw the retainer pins.8 Ease the shoes out one at a time from thelower pivot point, to release the tension of thereturn spring, then disconnect the lower returnspring from both shoes (see illustration).9 Ease the upper end of both shoes out fromtheir wheel cylinder locations, taking care notto damage the wheel cylinder seals, anddisconnect the handbrake cable from thetrailing shoe (see Haynes Hint). The brakeshoe and adjuster strut assembly can then bemanoeuvred out of position and away fromthe backplate. Do not depress the brake pedaluntil the brakes are reassembled.


6.7 Removing a later type Bendix shoe retainer spring

6.8 Ease the shoes out of the lower pivotpoint, and disconnect the lower return

spring - Bendix rear brakes

9

6.6b Removing an early type Bendix shoe retainer spring

6.6a Forked tool for removing early typeBendix shoe retainer springs

Restrain the wheel cylinder piston witha cable-tie or a strong elastic band

Warning: Brake shoes must berenewed on both rear wheels atthe same time - never renew theshoes on only one wheel, as

uneven braking may result. Also, the dustcreated by wear of the shoes may containasbestos, which is a health hazard. Neverblow it out with compressed air, and don’tinhale any of it. An approved filteringmask should be worn when working onthe brakes. DO NOT use petrol orpetroleum-based solvents to clean brakeparts; use brake cleaner or methylatedspirit only.

10 With the shoe and adjuster strut assemblyon a bench, make a note of the correct fittedpositions of the springs and adjuster strut, touse as a guide on reassembly. Release thehandbrake lever stop-peg (if not alreadydone), then carefully detach the adjuster strutbolt retaining spring from the leading shoe.Disconnect the upper return spring, thendetach the leading shoe and return springfrom the trailing shoe and strut assembly.Unhook the spring securing the adjuster strutto the trailing shoe, and separate the two.11 If genuine Peugeot brake shoes are beinginstalled, it will be necessary to remove thehandbrake lever from the original trailing shoe,and install it on the new shoe. Secure thelever in position with a new retaining clip. Allreturn springs should be renewed, regardlessof their apparent condition; spring kits arealso available from Peugeot dealers.12 Withdraw the adjuster bolt from the strut,and carefully examine the assembly for signsof wear or damage. Pay particular attention tothe threads of the adjuster bolt and theknurled adjuster wheel, and renew ifnecessary. Note that left-hand and right-handstruts are not interchangeable - they aremarked “G” (gauche) and “D” (droit)respectively. Also note that the strut adjusterbolts are not interchangeable; the left-handstrut bolt has a left-handed thread, and theright-hand bolt a right-handed thread.13 Ensure that the components on the end ofthe strut are correctly positioned, then apply alittle high-melting-point grease to the threads

of the adjuster bolt (see illustration). Screwthe adjuster wheel onto the bolt until only asmall gap exists between the wheel and thehead of the bolt, then install the bolt in the strut.14 Fit the adjuster strut retaining spring tothe trailing shoe, ensuring that the shorterhook of the spring is engaged with the shoe.Attach the adjuster strut to the spring end,then ease the strut into position in its slot inthe trailing shoe.15 Engage the upper return spring with thetrailing shoe, then hook the leading shoe ontothe other end of the spring, and lever theleading shoe down until the adjuster bolt headis correctly located in its groove. Once thebolt is correctly located, hook its retainingspring into the slot on the leading shoe.16 Peel back the rubber protective caps, andcheck the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks orother damage; check that both cylinderpistons are free to move easily. Refer toSection 12, if necessary, for information onwheel cylinder renewal.17 Prior to installation, clean the backplate,and apply a smear of high-temperature brakegrease or anti-seize compound to all thosesurfaces of the backplate which bear on theshoes, particularly the wheel cylinder pistonsand lower pivot point (see illustration). Do notallow the lubricant to foul the friction material.18 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-pegis correctly located against the edge of thetrailing shoe, and remove the elastic band orcable-tie (as applicable) fitted to the wheelcylinder.

19 Manoeuvre the shoe and strut assemblyinto position on the vehicle, and engage theupper end of both shoes with the wheelcylinder pistons. Attach the handbrake cableto the trailing shoe lever. Fit the lower returnspring to both shoes, and ease the shoes intoposition on the lower pivot point (seeillustrations).20 Tap the shoes to centralise them with thebackplate, then refit the shoe retainer pinsand springs, and secure them in position withthe spring cups.21 Using a screwdriver, turn the strutadjuster wheel to expand the shoes until thebrake drum just slides over the shoes.22 Refit the brake drum as described inSection 9.23 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake.24 Once both sets of rear shoes have beenrenewed, adjust the lining-to-drum clearanceby repeatedly depressing the brake pedal.Whilst depressing the pedal, have anassistant listen to the rear drums, to check


6.13 Correct fitted position of later typeBendix adjuster strut components

6.19a Fitting the brake shoes - early type Bendix brakes

6.19d Later type Bendix shoe componentscorrectly assembled

6.19c Front view of early type Bendix shoeassembly correctly assembled - removed

from backplate for clarity

6.19b Rear view of early type Bendix shoeassembly correctly assembled - removed

from backplate for clarity

6.17 Apply high-melting-point grease tothe shoe contact points on the backplate

A Leading shoeB Trailing shoeC Lower pivot pointF Adjuster strut

mechanism

1 Upper return spring2 Lower return spring3 Retaining pin,

spring, spring cup4 Adjuster strut-to-

trailing shoe spring

that the adjuster strut is functioning correctly;if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by thestrut as the pedal is depressed.25 Check and, if necessary, adjust thehandbrake as described in Section 17.26 On completion, check the hydraulic fluidlevel as described in Chapter 1.

Girling brake shoes27 Make a note of the correct fitted positionsof the springs and adjuster strut, to use as aguide on reassembly (see illustration).28 Carefully unhook both the upper andlower return springs, and remove them fromthe brake shoes.29 Using a pair of pliers, remove the leadingshoe retainer spring cup by depressing it andturning through 90º. With the cup removed, liftoff the spring, then withdraw the retainer pinand remove the shoe from the backplate.Unhook the adjusting lever spring, andremove it from the leading shoe.30 Detach the adjuster strut, and remove itfrom the trailing shoe.31 Remove the trailing shoe retainer springcup, spring and pin as described above, thendetach the handbrake cable and remove theshoe from the vehicle. Do not depress thebrake pedal until the brakes are reassembled.

32 If genuine Peugeot brake shoes are beinginstalled, it will be necessary to remove theadjusting lever from the original leading shoe,and install it on the new shoe. All returnsprings should be renewed, regardless of theirapparent condition; spring kits are alsoavailable from Peugeot dealers.33 Withdraw the forked end from the adjusterstrut, and carefully examine the assembly forsigns of wear or damage. Pay particularattention to the threads and the knurledadjuster wheel, and renew if necessary. Notethat left-hand and right-hand struts are not

interchangeable; the left-hand fork has a left-handed thread, and the right-hand fork aright-handed thread.34 Peel back the rubber protective caps, andcheck the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks orother damage; check that both cylinderpistons are free to move easily. Refer toSection 12, if necessary, for information onwheel cylinder renewal.35 Prior to installation, clean the backplate,and apply a thin smear of high-temperaturebrake grease or anti-seize compound to allthose surfaces of the backplate which bear onthe shoes, particularly the wheel cylinderpistons and lower pivot point. Do not allowthe lubricant to foul the friction material.36 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-pegis correctly located against the edge of thetrailing shoe, and remove the elastic band orcable-tie (as applicable) fitted to the wheelcylinder.37 Locate the upper end of the trailing shoein the wheel cylinder piston, then refit theretainer pin and spring, and secure it inposition with the spring cup. Connect thehandbrake cable to the lever.38 Screw in the adjuster wheel until theminimum strut length is obtained, then hookthe strut into position on the trailing shoe(note that the left and right-hand adjusters arenot interchangeable - see paragraph 33).Rotate the adjuster strut forked end, so thatthe cut-out of the fork will engage with theleading shoe adjusting lever once the shoe isinstalled (see illustration).39 Fit the spring to the leading shoeadjusting lever, so that the shorter hook of thespring engages with the lever.40 Slide the leading shoe assembly intoposition, ensuring that it is correctly engagedwith the adjuster strut fork, and that the forkcut-out is engaged with the adjusting lever.Ensure that the upper end of the shoe islocated in the wheel cylinder piston, thensecure the shoe in position with the retainerpin, spring and spring cup.41 Install the upper and lower return springs,then tap the shoes to centralise them with thebackplate.42 Using a screwdriver, turn the strutadjuster wheel to expand the shoes until thebrake drum just slides over the shoes.43 Refit the brake drum as described inSection 9.44 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake.45 Once both sets of rear shoes have beenrenewed, adjust the lining-to-drum clearance

by repeatedly depressing the brake pedal.Whilst depressing the pedal, have anassistant listen to the rear drums, to checkthat the adjuster strut is functioning correctly;if so, a clicking sound will be emitted by thestrut as the pedal is depressed.46 Check and, if necessary, adjust thehandbrake as described in Section 17.47 On completion, check the hydraulic fluidlevel as described in Chapter 1.

All shoes48 New shoes will not give full brakingefficiency until they have bedded in. Beprepared for this, and avoid hard braking asfar as possible for the first hundred miles or soafter shoe renewal.

7 Front brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note atthe beginning of Section 4 concerning thedangers of asbestos dust.

InspectionNote: If either disc requires renewal, BOTHshould be renewed at the same time, toensure even and consistent braking. Newbrake pads should also be fitted.1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the car and support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove theappropriate front roadwheel.2 Slowly rotate the brake disc so that the fullarea of both sides can be checked; removethe brake pads if better access is required tothe inboard surface. Light scoring is normal inthe area swept by the brake pads, but if heavyscoring or cracks are found, the disc must berenewed.3 It is normal to find a lip of rust and brakedust around the disc’s perimeter; this can bescraped off if required. If, however, a lip hasformed due to excessive wear of the brakepad swept area, then the disc’s thicknessmust be measured using a micrometer (seeillustration). Take measurements at severalplaces around the disc, at the inside andoutside of the pad swept area; if the disc has


7.3 Using a micrometer to measure disc thickness

6.38 On Girling rear brake shoes, adjusterstrut fork cut-out (A) must engage withleading shoe adjusting lever on refitting

6.27 Correct fitted positions of Girling rearbrake components

Arrow indicates direction of wheel rotation

9

Wrap a strong elastic bandor a cable-tie around thewheel cylinder pistons toretain them.

worn at any point to the specified minimumthickness or less, the disc must be renewed.4 If the disc is thought to be warped, it can bechecked for run-out. Either use a dial gaugemounted on any convenient fixed point, whilethe disc is slowly rotated, or use feeler bladesto measure (at several points all around thedisc) the clearance between the disc and afixed point, such as the caliper mountingbracket (see illustration). If the measurementsobtained are at the specified maximum orbeyond, the disc is excessively warped, andmust be renewed; however, it is worthchecking first that the hub bearing is in goodcondition (Chapters 1 and/or 10). Also try theeffect of removing the disc and turning itthrough 180º, to reposition it on the hub; if therun-out is still excessive, the disc must berenewed.5 Check the disc for cracks, especiallyaround the wheel bolt holes, and any otherwear or damage, and renew if necessary.

Removal6 On models with Bendix calipers, removethe brake pads as described in Section 4.7 On models with Girling calipers, unscrewthe two bolts securing the caliper mountingbracket to the hub carrier (see illustration).Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliperto the front suspension coil spring, to avoidplacing any strain on the fluid hose.8 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the disc to the hub, then remove thescrew(s) securing the brake disc to the hub,and remove the disc (see illustration). If it istight, lightly tap its rear face with a hide orplastic mallet.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

disc and hub are clean and flat.b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on

removal, and securely tighten the discretaining screws.

c) If a new disc has been fitted, use asuitable solvent to wipe any preservativecoating from the disc, before refitting thecaliper.

d) On models with Girling calipers, refit thecaliper as described in Section 10.

e) On models with Bendix calipers, refit thepads as described in Section 4.

f) Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.On completion, repeatedly depress thebrake pedal until normal (non-assisted)pedal pressure returns.

8 Rear brake disc - inspection,removal and refitting 2


InspectionNote: If either disc requires renewal, BOTHshould be renewed at the same time, toensure even and consistent braking. Newbrake pads should be fitted also.1 Firmly chock the front wheels, then jack upthe rear of the car and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel.2 Inspect the disc as described in Section 7.

Removal3 Remove the brake pads as described inSection 5.4 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationshipof the disc to the hub, then remove the screwsecuring the brake disc to the hub, andremove the disc. If it is tight, lightly tap its rearface with a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the

disc and hub are clean and flat.b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on

removal, and securely tighten the discretaining screws.

c) If a new disc has been fitted, use asuitable solvent to wipe any preservativecoating from the disc, before refitting thecaliper.

d) Refit the brake pads as described inSection 5.

e) Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

9 Rear brake drum - removal,inspection and refitting 2


Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel.2 Remove the drum retaining screw (seeillustration).3 It should now be possible to withdraw thebrake drum by hand. It may be difficult toremove the drum due to the brake shoesbinding on the inner circumference of thedrum. If the brake shoes are binding, proceedas follows.a) First check that the handbrake is fully

released, then referring to Section 17 forfurther information, fully slacken thehandbrake cable adjuster nut, to obtainmaximum free play in the cable.

b) Insert a screwdriver through the accesshole in the rear of the backplate (prise outthe blanking plug, where applicable), so


7.8 Disc securing screws (arrowed)

9.2 Rear brake drum retaining screw (arrowed)

7.7 Removing a Girling caliper mounting bracket bolt

7.4 Checking disc run-out using a dial gauge

that it contacts the handbrake operatinglever on the trailing brake shoe. Push thelever until the stop-peg slips behind thebrake shoe web, allowing the brake shoesto retract fully (see illustrations). Thebrake drum can now be withdrawn.

InspectionNote: If either drum requires renewal, BOTHshould be renewed at the same time, toensure even and consistent braking. Newbrake shoes should also be fitted.4 Working carefully, remove all traces ofbrake dust from the drum, but avoid inhalingthe dust, as it is injurious to health.5 Clean the outside of the drum, and check itfor obvious signs of wear or damage, such ascracks around the roadwheel bolt holes;renew the drum if necessary.6 Examine carefully the inside of the drum.Light scoring of the friction surface is normal,but if heavy scoring is found, the drum mustbe renewed. It is usual to find a lip on thedrum’s inboard edge which consists of amixture of rust and brake dust; this should bescraped away, to leave a smooth surfacewhich can be polished with fine (120- to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the lip is dueto the friction surface being recessed byexcessive wear, then the drum must berenewed.7 If the drum is thought to be excessivelyworn, or oval, its internal diameter must bemeasured at several points using an internal

micrometer. Take measurements in pairs, thesecond at right-angles to the first, andcompare the two, to check for signs of ovality.Provided that it does not enlarge the drum tobeyond the specified maximum diameter, itmay be possible to have the drum refinishedby skimming or grinding; if this is not possible,the drums on both sides must be renewed.Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTHdrums must be refinished, to maintain aconsistent internal diameter on both sides.

Refitting8 If a new brake drum is to be installed, use asuitable solvent to remove any preservativecoating that may have been applied to itsinterior. Note that it may also be necessary toshorten the adjuster strut length, by rotatingthe strut wheel, to allow the drum to pass overthe brake shoes.9 Ensure that the handbrake lever stop-peg iscorrectly repositioned against the edge of thebrake shoe web (see illustration), and ensurethat the mating faces of the hub and brakedrum are clean, then slide the brake drumonto the hub.10 Refit and tighten the drum retainingscrew.11 Depress the footbrake several times tooperate the self-adjusting mechanism.12 Repeat the above procedure on theremaining rear brake assembly (wherenecessary), then check and, if necessary,adjust the handbrake cable as described inSection 17.13 On completion, refit the roadwheel(s),then lower the vehicle to the ground andtighten the wheel bolts to the specifiedtorque.

10 Front brake caliper - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warningat the beginning of Section 4 concerning thedangers of asbestos dust.

Bendix caliper

Removal1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Removethe appropriate roadwheel.2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use abrake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar toolto clamp the flexible hose (see illustration).3 Remove the brake pads as described inSection 4.4 Clean the area around the union, thenloosen the fluid hose union nut.5 Slacken the two bolts securing the caliperassembly to the hub carrier and remove themalong with the mounting plate, noting whichway around the plate is fitted. Lift the caliperassembly away from the brake disc, andunscrew it from the end of the fluid hose. Plugthe open ends of the caliper and hose toprevent dirt ingress and fluid loss.

Overhaul6 The caliper can be overhauled afterobtaining the relevant repair kit from aPeugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repairkit is obtained for the caliper being worked on.Note the locations of all components toensure correct refitting, and lubricate the newseals using clean brake fluid. Follow theassembly instructions supplied with the repairkit (see illustration).


9.9 Check that the handbrake lever stop-peg (arrowed) is against the shoe edge

E Handbrake operating lever stop-peg location

10.2 Using a clamp on the caliperhydraulic hose

9.3b Releasing the handbrake operating lever

9

9.3a Using a screwdriver inserted throughthe brake drum to release the handbrake

operating lever

Refitting7 Screw the caliper fully onto the flexible hoseunion, then position the caliper over the brakedisc.8 Clean the threads of the caliper mountingbolts, and apply a suitable locking compoundto them. Refit the bolts along with themounting plate, ensuring that the plate isfitted so that its bend curves away from thecaliper body. With the plate correctlypositioned, tighten the caliper bolts to thespecified torque.9 Securely tighten the brake hose union nut,then refit the brake pads as described inSection 4.10 Remove the brake hose clamp orpolythene, as applicable, and bleed thehydraulic system as described in Section 2.Note that, providing the precautionsdescribed were taken to minimise brake fluidloss, it should only be necessary to bleed therelevant front brake.11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

Girling caliper

RemovalNote: New guide pin bolts must be used onrefitting.12 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 4.13 Where applicable, remove the dust cover,then slacken and remove the upper caliperguide pin bolt, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pin itself fromrotating (see illustration). Discard the guidepin bolt - a new bolt must be used on refitting.Lift the caliper away from the disc, andunscrew it from the end of the fluid hose. Plugthe open ends of the caliper and hose toprevent dirt ingress and fluid loss.

Overhaul14 Proceed as described in paragraph 6 (seeillustration).

Refitting15 Screw the caliper body fully onto theflexible hose union.16 If the threads of the new guide pin boltsare not already pre-coated with lockingcompound, apply a suitable lockingcompound to them.


10.13 Removing a Girling caliper upperguide pin bolt

1 Guide bolt2 Caliper body3 Pad retaining plate kit4 Bleed screw5 Mounting plate6 Guide pin assembly7 Repair kit

10.6 Components of Bendix front caliper

10.14 Components of Girlingfront caliper

1 Mounting bracket bolt2 Bleed screw3 Caliper body4 Mounting bracket5 Guide pin assembly6 Repair kit

17 Manoeuvre the caliper into position, andfit the new upper guide pin bolt. Tighten theguide pin bolt to the specified torque, whileretaining the guide pin with an open-endedspanner. Where applicable, refit the dustcover to the guide pin bolt.18 Proceed as described in paragraphs 9 to 11.

11 Rear brake caliper - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warningat the beginning of Section 4 concerning thedangers of asbestos dust.Note: New caliper guide pin bolts must beused on refitting.Note: To avoid the requirement to pre-bleedthe caliper before refitting, unless the unit is tobe overhauled, do not drain the hydraulic fluidfrom the caliper - plug the fluid port in thecaliper to prevent fluid loss. Peugeot partsdealers will supply new calipers filled withbrake fluid.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support it on axlestands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).Remove the appropriate roadwheel.2 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use abrake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar toolto clamp the flexible hose.3 Remove the brake pads (see Section 5).4 Clean the area around the union, thenloosen the fluid hose union nut.5 Where applicable, prise off the dust cover,then slacken and remove the lower caliperguide pin bolt, using a slim open-endedspanner to prevent the guide pin itself fromrotating. Discard the guide pin bolt - a newbolt must be used on refitting. Lift the caliperaway from the disc, and unscrew it from theend of the fluid hose. Plug the open ends ofthe caliper and hose to prevent dirt ingressand fluid loss.

Overhaul6 The caliper can be overhauled afterobtaining the relevant repair kit from a

Peugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repairkit is obtained for the caliper being worked on.Note the locations of all components toensure correct refitting, and lubricate the newseals using clean brake fluid. Follow theassembly instructions supplied with the repairkit (see illustration).

Caliper pre-bleedingNote: This operation must be carried outwhenever the caliper has been overhauled ordrained of its fluid, and the operation must becarried out with the caliper removed.7 With the rear of the vehicle supported onaxle stands, and the relevant roadwheelremoved, proceed as follows.8 Reconnect the fluid hose to the caliper, andtighten the union nut.9 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-handrear suspension trailing arm, and raise the armto actuate the rear brake pressure regulatingvalve (see Section 21).10 Position the caliper vertically, with thebleed screw uppermost, and keep it in thisposition throughout the following bleedingoperation.

11 Place a block of wood approximately 20.0mm thick between the caliper piston and thecaliper body (ie, in the position normallyoccupied by the brake pads) to prevent thepiston from being ejected.12 Remove the brake hose clamp orpolythene, as applicable, then connect a hoseand bottle to the bleed screw, and bleed thecaliper using one of the methods described inSection 3 (note that Peugeot recommend thatpressure bleeding equipment is used). Whenthe fluid emerging is free from air bubbles,tighten the bleed screw (see illustration).13 Continue to pressurise the hydraulic


11.12 Rear caliper ready for pre-bleeding

1 Bleed screw 2 Wooden block

1 Mounting bracket bolt2 Bleed screw3 Handbrake lever spring

4 Caliper body5 Mounting bracket6 Guide pin assembly

7 Repair kit

11.6 Components of rear caliper

9

Rest the caliper on a blockof wood under the vehicle.

system (eg, by “pumping” the brake pedal)until the caliper piston contacts the block ofwood.14 Open the caliper bleed screw, and removethe block of wood from the caliper.15 Push the caliper piston fully into thecaliper bore. Retract the caliper piston byapplying pressure, and turning it clockwise. Aspecial tool is available for this purpose but apair of circlip pliers or any similar tool can beused instead. Take care not to damage thesurface of the piston. Turn the piston toposition the notches in the piston on thecentreline of the slot in the front of the caliper.16 Tighten the bleed screw.17 Refit the block of wood to the caliper,then repeat the procedure described inparagraphs 12 to 17 inclusive.18 On completion, ensure that the bleedscrew is tightened, then disconnect the bleedhose.19 Lower the trailing arm and remove thetrolley jack, then refit the caliper as follows.

RefittingNote: Provided that the caliper has not beendrained of its fluid, the unit can be refitted asfollows. If the caliper has been overhauled ordrained for any reason, the pre-bleedingprocedure described in the precedingparagraphs must be carried out beforerefitting.20 Screw the caliper body fully onto theflexible hose union (if not already done).21 If the threads of the new guide pin boltsare not already pre-coated with lockingcompound, apply a suitable lockingcompound to them.22 Manoeuvre the caliper into position, andfit the new lower guide pin bolt. Tighten theguide pin bolt to the specified torque, whileretaining the guide pin with an open-endedspanner. Where applicable, refit the dustcover to the guide pin bolt.23 Securely tighten the brake hose union nut(if not already done), then refit the brake padsas described in Section 5.24 Remove the brake hose clamp orpolythene, as applicable, and bleed thehydraulic system as described in Section 2 (ifnot already done). Note that, providing theprecautions described were taken to minimisebrake fluid loss, it should only be necessary tobleed the relevant rear brake.25 Refit the roadwheel, then lower thevehicle to the ground and tighten theroadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

12 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting 3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the note atthe beginning of Section 2 concerning thedangers of hydraulic fluid, and to the warningat the beginning of Section 4 concerning thedangers of asbestos dust.

Removal1 Remove the brake drum (see Section 9).2 Using pliers, carefully unhook the upperbrake shoe return spring, and remove it fromboth brake shoes. Pull the upper ends of theshoes away from the wheel cylinder todisengage them from the pistons.3 Minimise fluid loss by first removing themaster cylinder reservoir cap, and thentightening it down onto a piece of polythene,to obtain an airtight seal. Alternatively, use abrake hose clamp, a G-clamp or a similar toolto clamp the flexible hose at the nearestconvenient point to the wheel cylinder.4 Wipe away all traces of dirt around thebrake pipe union at the rear of the wheelcylinder, and unscrew the union nut (seeillustration). Carefully ease the pipe out of thewheel cylinder, and plug or tape over its endto prevent dirt entry. Wipe off any spilt fluidimmediately.5 Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retainingbolts from the rear of the backplate, andremove the cylinder, taking great care not toallow surplus hydraulic fluid to contaminatethe brake shoe linings.

Overhaul

Models without underbody-mountedrear brake pressure-regulating valve(see Section 21)6 It is not possible to overhaul the cylinder,since no components are available separately.If faulty, the complete wheel cylinderassembly must be renewed.

Models with underbody-mounted rearbrake pressure-regulating valve (seeSection 21)7 The wheel cylinder can be overhauled afterobtaining the relevant repair kit from aPeugeot dealer. Ensure that the correct repairkit is obtained for the wheel cylinder beingworked on. Note the locations of allcomponents to ensure correct refitting, andlubricate the new seals using clean brakefluid. Follow the assembly instructionssupplied with the repair kit (see illustrations).

Refitting8 Ensure that the backplate and wheelcylinder mating surfaces are clean, then

spread the brake shoes and manoeuvre thewheel cylinder into position.9 Engage the brake pipe, and screw in theunion nut two or three turns to ensure that thethread has started.10 Insert the two wheel cylinder retainingbolts, and tighten them securely. Now fullytighten the brake pipe union nut.11 Remove the clamp from the flexible brakehose, or the polythene from the mastercylinder reservoir (as applicable).12 Ensure that the brake shoes are correctlylocated in the cylinder pistons, then carefullyrefit the brake shoe upper return spring, usinga screwdriver to stretch the spring intoposition.13 Refit the brake drum (see Section 9).14 Bleed the brake hydraulic system (seeSection 2). Providing precautions were takento minimise loss of fluid, it should only benecessary to bleed the relevant rear brake.


12.4 Brake pipe union (A) and rear wheelcylinder retaining bolts (B)

12.7b Bendix rear wheel cylindercomponents - models with underbody-

mounted brake pressure-regulating valve1 Cylinder2 Securing bolt

3 Bleed screw4 Repair kit items

12.7a Girling rear wheel cylindercomponents - models with underbody-

mounted brake pressure-regulating valveA Repair kit items

13 Master cylinder - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the cap from the brake fluidreservoir, place a piece of polythene sheetover the filler neck, and refit the cap tightly.Alternatively, siphon all the fluid from thereservoir using an old teat pipette or poultrybaster. This will minimise fluid loss during thefollowing procedure.

3 To improve the clearance available forremoval, remove the windscreen wiper arms(see Chapter 12), then remove the scuttlecover panel from the front edge of thewindscreen (see Chapter 11).4 Disconnect the wiring from the low brakefluid level warning sensor.5 Unscrew the two nuts securing the mastercylinder to the brake vacuum servo unit (seeillustration).6 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnectthe brake fluid pipes from the master cylinder.7 Lift the master cylinder, complete with the fluidreservoir, from the servo unit (see illustration).Hold a cloth under the assembly to catch anyfluid spillage. Recover the sealing ring.8 Unscrew the clamp nut and bolt, releasethe plastic clamp, and withdraw the fluidreservoir from the master cylinder.

Overhaul9 No spare parts are available from Peugeotfor the master cylinder, and if faulty thecomplete unit must be renewed.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) Examine the master cylinder sealing ring

and renew if necessary.

b) Ensure that the brake pipe union nuts aresecurely tightened.

c) Refit the windscreen wiper arms withreference to Chapter 12.

d) On completion, remove the polythene,where applicable, then top-up and bleedthe hydraulic system as described inSection 2.

14 Brake pedal - removal and refitting 4

Note: On models fitted with the Bendix“integral” ABS, the hydraulic modulator unitmust be removed in order to remove the brakepedal. This task must be entrusted to aPeugeot dealer - see Section 23.

Removal1 The pedal assembly is removed completewith the vacuum servo, and the procedure isdescribed in Section 15.2 With the servo/pedal assembly removed,proceed as follows.3 Remove the securing clip, and withdraw thepin securing the servo pushrod to the pedal.4 Unscrew the nut from the pedal pivot bolt,and withdraw the pivot bolt to release thepedals (see illustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renewthe nylon pedal pivot bushes if they are worn,and refit the servo/pedal assembly asdescribed in Section 15.

15 Vacuum servo unit - testing,removal and refitting 4

Testing1 To test the operation of the servo unit,depress the footbrake several times toexhaust the vacuum, then start the enginewhilst keeping the pedal firmly depressed. Asthe engine starts, there should be a noticeable“give” in the brake pedal as the vacuum buildsup. Allow the engine to run for at least two

minutes, then switch it off. If the brake pedalis now depressed it should feel normal, butfurther applications should result in the pedalfeeling firmer, with the pedal strokedecreasing with each application.2 If the servo does not operate as described,first inspect the servo unit check valve asdescribed in Section 16.3 If the servo unit still fails to operate satisfac-torily, the fault lies within the unit itself.Repairs to the unit are not possible - if faulty,the servo unit must be renewed.

Removal4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.5 Remove the windscreen wiper motor/linkage assembly as described in Chapter 12.6 Disconnect the wiring from the low brakefluid level warning sensor.7 Pull the vacuum check valve from thegrommet in the top of the servo (seeillustration).8 Unscrew the two nuts securing the mastercylinder to the brake vacuum servo unit, thenease the master cylinder up to disengage itfrom the servo, without disconnecting thefluid pipes. Take care not to strain the fluidpipes. If necessary, release the fluid pipesfrom their locating clips to enable them tomove sufficiently.9 Working in the driver’s footwell, remove thecarpet trim panel from under the facia toexpose the pedal assemblies.10 Where applicable, working under thefacia, unscrew the bolts securing the relaybracket and the wiring connector bracket(s) toimprove access.


14.4 Pedal pivot bolt and nut (arrowed)

15.7 Pulling the vacuum check valve fromthe servo

13.7 Removing the master cylinder fromthe vacuum servo

13.5 Master cylinder securing nut(arrowed)

9

Spread some cloth over thevacuum servo unit andsurrounding area to catchfluid drips as the mastercylinder is removed.

11 Where applicable, depress the retainingclip and detach the end of the clutch cablefrom the pedal (see Chapter 5).12 Disconnect the wiring plug from the stoplight switch.13 Prise off the brake and clutch pedalrubbers.14 Working in the scuttle, unscrew andremove the four nuts securing the servo to thescuttle (see illustration).15 Manoeuvre the complete vacuum servo,pedal bracket and pedal assembly from thescuttle (see illustration).16 Unscrew the four nuts securing the servoto the pedal bracket, and withdraw the servo(see illustration). Where applicable recoverthe gasket.17 The servo is a sealed unit, and if faulty,the complete unit must be renewed.

Refitting18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) Use a new gasket when refitting the

servo.b) Refit the wiper motor/linkage assembly

with reference to Chapter 12.c) Check the stop light adjustment with

reference to Section 22.d) Check the clutch cable adjustment as

described in Chapter 6.

16 Vacuum servo unit checkvalve - removal, testing andrefitting

1Removal1 For access to the valve, open the bonnet.The valve is a push-fit in the top of the brakevacuum servo unit located in the scuttle at therear of the engine compartment.2 Slacken the retaining clip (where fitted), anddisconnect the vacuum hose from the servounit check valve.3 Withdraw the valve from its rubber sealinggrommet, using a pulling and twisting motion.Remove the grommet from the servo.

Testing4 Examine the check valve for signs of

damage, and renew if necessary. The valvemay be tested by blowing through it in bothdirections. Air should flow through the valve inone direction only - when blown through fromthe servo unit end of the valve. Renew thevalve if this is not the case.5 Examine the rubber sealing grommet andflexible vacuum hose for signs of damage ordeterioration, and renew as necessary.

Refitting6 Fit the sealing grommet into position in theservo unit.7 Carefully ease the check valve into position,taking great care not to displace or damagethe grommet. Reconnect the vacuum hose tothe valve and, where necessary, securelytighten its retaining clip.

17 Handbrake - checking andadjustment 2

Checking1 The handbrake is correctly adjusted whenthe rear wheels are fully locked when thehandbrake lever has been pulled up by six toeight notches. This adjustment tolerance willbe maintained if the automatic adjustermechanism is operating correctly tocompensate for brake shoe/pad wear.2 To check the adjustment, proceed asfollows.3 Start the engine and release the handbrake.4 Depress the brake pedal fully two or threetimes with the engine running, then stop theengine.5 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle, and support securely onaxle stands (see “Jacking and VehicleSupport”).6 Apply the handbrake between six to eightnotches, and check that both rear wheels arelocked. If the wheels do not lock, or if thewheels lock before the handbrake lever hasmoved through at least six notches, adjust themechanism as follows.

Adjustment - rear drum brakes7 With the vehicle raised and supported at

the rear, where applicable, remove the rearbody undershield for access to the handbrakecable adjuster (see illustration).8 Slacken the locknut on the handbrakeadjuster mechanism and turn the adjuster nutuntil the brake shoes are just beginning todrag on the drums.9 Pull up the handbrake lever, and check thatboth rear wheels are locked with the leverpulled up between six and eight notches. Ifnot, readjust using the adjuster nut asnecessary.10 With the mechanism correctly adjusted,tighten the adjuster locknut then, whereapplicable, refit the rear body undershield,and lower the vehicle to the ground.11 Check that the “handbrake on” warninglight illuminates with the handbrake lever atthe first notch of its travel. If necessary, adjustthe switch as described in Chapter 12.

Adjustment - rear disc brakes12 Where applicable, remove the rear bodyundershield for access to the handbrake cableadjuster, then lower the rear of the vehicle tothe ground.13 Chock the front wheels, and ensure thatthe handbrake is released.14 Slacken the locknut on the handbrakeadjuster mechanism, then turn the adjusternut until there is a clearance of approximately2.0 mm between the end faces of the cableend fittings and the handbrake operatinglevers on the rear calipers (see illustration).15 Operate the levers on the calipersmanually, and check that the levers returnfully to their stops when released.16 Turn the adjuster nut to give a dimension


15.14 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed)securing the servo to the scuttle

15.16 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed)securing the servo to the pedal bracket

17.7 Handbrake cable adjuster (arrowed)

15.15 Removing the vacuum servo/pedalbracket assembly

of approximately 15.0 mm between the rearface of the adjuster nut and the end of thethreaded adjuster rod.17 Proceed as described in paragraphs 9 to 11.

18 Handbrake lever - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the rear of the handbrakeprimary cable from the right-hand secondarycable under the rear of the vehicle, asdescribed in Section 19.2 On models with a “lowline” centre console,pull the handbrake lever up, then unclip thefront edge of the handbrake aperture trimpanel from the top of the centre console.Withdraw the trim panel over the handbrakelever.3 On models with a “highline” centre console,remove the centre console as described inChapter 11.4 Working under the vehicle, where applicable,for access to the handbrake lever securingnuts, remove the exhaust intermediate sectionas described in Chapter 4, then remove theunderbody heat shield(s).5 Unscrew the four handbrake lever securingnuts, noting that on certain models two of thenuts also secure an exhaust mounting bracket(see illustration).6 Carefully lower the lever assembly fromunder the vehicle, and disconnect the wiringplug from the “handbrake on” warning lightswitch. The mounting plate may be stuck tothe floor with sealant, in which case cutaround the plate with a sharp knife. Whereapplicable, recover the gasket.7 Disconnect the end of the cable from thelever, then release the cable sheath from thelever mounting plate.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing inmind the following points.a) Use a new gasket or new sealant, as

applicable when refitting the lever

mounting plate to the floor (clean themating faces of the mounting plate andfloor).

b) Where applicable, ensure that the exhaustmounting bracket is in position under thehandbrake lever securing nuts, and refitthe exhaust intermediate section withreference to Chapter 4.

c) On completion, check and if necessaryadjust the handbrake mechanism asdescribed in Section 17.

19 Handbrake cables - removaland refitting 3

Primary cable

Removal1 Jack up the vehicle and support on axlestands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).2 Where applicable, remove the rear bodyundershield.3 To gain access to the cable on certainmodels, it may be necessary to remove theheat shields from under the fuel tank and therear underbody. To gain access to remove theheat shields, it may be necessary to removethe clamp securing the exhaust rear section tothe intermediate section - this will allow theexhaust sections to move sufficiently tomanipulate the heat shields out from underthe vehicle.4 Release the handbrake, then slacken thelocknut on the adjuster mechanism and backoff the adjuster nut (see illustration).5 Release the primary cable from the clips onthe underbody, then release the cable fromthe right-hand secondary cable at theconnector, and from the adjuster bracket.6 Working under the handbrake lever, detachthe cable sheath from the lever mountingplate.7 On models with a “lowline” centre console,pull the handbrake lever up, then unclip thefront edge of the handbrake aperture trimpanel from the top of the centre console.Withdraw the trim panel over the handbrakelever.

8 On models with a “highline” centre console,remove the centre console as described inChapter 11.9 Pull the handbrake lever up to the 5th notchof travel, for access to the end of the cable.10 Pull the end of the cable forwards anddown to release it from the lug on the lever.11 Feed the cable down through the levermounting plate, and withdraw it from underthe vehicle.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following points.a) Ensure that the cable is routed correctly,

and is free from kinks.b) On completion, check and if necessary

adjust the handbrake mechanism asdescribed in Section 17.

Secondary cable - models with rear drum brakes

Removal13 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1and 2.14 Slacken the locknut on the adjustermechanism and back off the adjuster nut.15 If the left-hand cable is being removed,remove the adjuster nut from the end of thethreaded adjuster rod, then detach the end ofthe cable from the adjuster bracket.16 If the right-hand cable is being removed,disconnect the secondary cable from theprimary cable at the connector.17 Remove the relevant brake drum asdescribed in Section 9.18 Using a pair of pliers, unhook the end ofthe handbrake cable from the operating leveron the trailing brake shoe.19 Where applicable, tap the cable sheathend fitting from the aperture in the brakebackplate, and feed the cable through the


19.4 Handbrake lever and cablecomponents

1 Handbrake lever2 Switch assembly

3 Primary cable4 Secondary cables

18.5 Three of the handbrake leversecuring nuts (arrowed)

9

17.14 Adjust the clearance between thecable end fitting (A) and the handbrake

operating lever (B) at the caliper

backplate (it may be necessary to remove thebrake shoes for access - see Section 6) (seeillustration).20 Release the cable from the underbodyclips, noting its routing, and withdraw thecable from under the vehicle.


and is free from kinks.b) Refit the brake drum (see Section 9).c) On completion, check and if necessary


Secondary cable - models with rear disc brakes

Removal22 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1and 2.23 Slacken the locknut on the adjustermechanism and back off the adjuster nut.24 If the left-hand cable is being removed,remove the adjuster nut from the end of thethreaded adjuster rod, then detach the end ofthe cable from the adjuster bracket.25 If the right-hand cable is being removed,disconnect the secondary cable from theprimary cable at the connector.26 Disconnect the end of the cable from theoperating lever on the caliper, then release thecable sheath from the caliper bracket.27 Release the cable from the underbodyclips, noting its routing, and withdraw thecable from under the vehicle.


and is free from kinks.b) On completion, check and if necessary


20 Handbrake “on” warninglight switch - removal andrefitting

3Removal1 Remove the handbrake lever as describedin Section 18.2 Mark the position of the switch bracket onthe handbrake lever assembly.3 Unbolt the switch bracket from thehandbrake lever assembly, and unclip theswitch.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ifnecessary, the position of the switch bracketcan be adjusted (the hole in the bracket iselongated) to ensure that the warning light isoff with the handbrake released, and on withthe handbrake applied.

21 Rear brake pressure-regulating valve (underbody-mounted) - removal and refitting

5Note: On some models equipped with reardrum brakes, the pressure regulating valvesare integral with the rear wheel cylinders. Iffitted, the underbody-mounted pressureregulating valve is located on the right-handside of the rear axle assembly.

Note: On refitting, the valve must be adjustedusing specialist test equipment. This task mustbe entrusted to Peugeot dealer.

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the vehicle and support securely onaxle stands (see “Jacking and VehicleSupport”).2 Unhook the valve operating spring from thebracket attached to the trailing arm.

3 Place a suitable container under the valve,then disconnect the fluid pipes from the valve.Plug the open ends of the pipes and the valveto prevent dirt ingress and to reduce fluidspillage.4 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdrawthe valve from its mounting bracket (seeillustration).

Refitting5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but oncompletion bleed the hydraulic system asdescribed in Section 2, and have the valveadjusted by a Peugeot dealer.

22 Stop-light switch - removal,refitting and adjustment 2

Removal1 The switch is mounted on the brake pedalbracket (see illustration).2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.3 If necessary to improve access, remove thecarpet trim panel from under the driver’s sidefacia.4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch,then pull the switch from the bracket toremove it.

Refitting5 Depress the brake pedal fully.6 Push the switch fully into its bracket as faras the stop.7 Release the brake pedal, and allow it tocontact the switch. The switch should retract,and automatically reset itself.8 Reconnect the wiring plug, then reconnectthe battery negative lead.9 Check that the stop lights operate when thebrake pedal is depressed with the ignitionswitched on.10 If the stop lights fail to operate, and thewiring is in good order, renew the switch.

Adjustment11 The switch is self-adjusting, and can bereset by removing and then refitting it asdescribed previously in this Section.12 If the switch fails to operate satisfactorilyafter removal and refitting, renew the switch.


22.1 Stop-light switch (arrowed) on brake pedal bracket

21.4 Rear brake pressure-regulating valvesecuring bolts (arrowed)

19.19 Tapping the handbrake cable sheathend fitting from the brake backplate

Warning: Do not attempt toremove the pressure-regulatingvalve on models equipped withthe Bendix “integral” ABS

system. On these models, the task shouldbe entrusted to a Peugeot dealer - seeSection 23.

23 Anti-lock braking system(ABS) - general information

General1 ABS is available as an option on certainmodels covered by this manual, and is fittedas standard equipment on some models. Thepurpose of the system is to prevent thewheel(s) locking during heavy braking. This isachieved by automatic release of the brake onthe relevant wheel, followed by re-applicationof the brake. The system comprises anelectronic control module, a hydraulicmodulator block, the hydraulic solenoidvalves and accumulators, the electrically-driven pump, and the roadwheel sensors.2 The system operates on all four wheels,and vehicles may be fitted with rear disc orrear drum brakes.3 The system prevents wheel lock-up byregulating the hydraulic pressure to thebrakes.4 Solenoids (which control the fluid pressureto the calipers) are controlled by the electroniccontrol unit, which itself receives signals fromthe wheel sensors (fitted to all four wheels),which monitor the speed of rotation of eachwheel. By comparing these speed signalsfrom the wheels, the control unit candetermine the speed at which the vehicle istravelling. It can then use this speed todetermine when a wheel is decelerating at anabnormal rate, compared to the speed of thevehicle, and therefore predicts when a wheelis about to lock. During normal operation, thesystem functions in the same way as a non-ABS braking system.5 The ABS system is fail-safe, and should afailure occur, a self-monitoring test facility isincorporated in the system which can be usedin conjunction with dealer test equipment forfault diagnosis.6 Three different types of ABS may be fitted,depending on model, as follows.

Bendix “integral” ABS7 This system is fitted to certain models up to1993 as standard equipment. The system isfitted instead of a conventional system, andthe brake pedal acts directly on the hydrauliccontrol unit, which replaces the mastercylinder and vacuum servo in a conventionalbraking system.8 The system operates at very high fluidpressure, typically 158 to 183 bar, generatedby an electric pump fitted to the modulatorassembly.9 The system is fail-safe and will continue tooperate even if one wheel sensor should fail.In the event of total failure, the control unit willrevert the system to normal braking.

Bendix “additional” ABS10 The Bendix “additional” system is fitted asan option to certain models, and the ABScomponents are fitted in addition to theconventional braking system components.11 The system uses the pressure providedby the conventional master cylinder andvacuum servo.12 The system is fail-safe, and conventionalbraking is maintained through the servo and master cylinder in the event of an ABSfailure.13 The braking system can be safely bled,and the fluid can be renewed as described inChapter 1, as the system operates using theconventional pressure supplied by the mastercylinder and servo.

Bosch 2E “additional” ABS14 The Bosch 2E additional system is fittedto certain later models from 1993, and issimilar to the Bendix “additional” systemdescribed previously.

24 Anti-lock braking system(ABS) components - removaland refitting

4Front wheel sensor

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 To improve access, apply the handbrake,then jack up the front of the vehicle andsupport securely on axle stands (see “Jackingand Vehicle Support”). If desired, remove theroadwheel.3 Trace the wiring back from the sensor, then

disconnect the sensor wiring connector (onmost models, the sensor wiring is routedthrough the inner wing panel, and theconnector is located in the enginecompartment.4 Release the sensor wiring from anysecuring clips and, where applicable, pushthe wiring grommet from the inner wing paneland feed the wiring through the panel.5 Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdrawthe sensor from the hub carrier (seeillustration).

Refitting6 Before refitting a sensor, ensure that the tipis clean. Where applicable, on new sensorsremove the protective sticker from the tip.7 Fit the sensor to the hub carrier.8 Clean the sensor securing bolt, then applythread-locking compound to the bolt threads.Fit the bolt and tighten to the specified torque.9 On models fitted with the Bendix “integral”ABS system, proceed as follows (seeillustration).a) Loosen the sensor adjuster bolt.b) Position a 0.5 mm feeler blade between

the sensor tip and the sensor ring on thedriveshaft.

c) Press the sensor lightly against the feelerblade, and tighten the adjuster bolt to thespecified torque.

d) Remove the feeler blade.10 On completion, where applicable refit theroadwheel and lower the vehicle to theground.

Rear wheel sensor

Removal11 Disconnect the battery negative lead.12 To improve access, chock the frontwheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicleand support securely on axle stands (see“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).13 Trace the wiring back from the sensor,then disconnect the sensor wiring connector(on most models, the sensor wiring is routedthrough the floor of the vehicle, and theconnector is located behind the luggagecompartment side trim panel.14 Release the wiring from the clipsunderneath the vehicle, and feed the wiringthrough the floor panel.


24.9 ABS front wheel sensor adjustment(adjuster arrowed) - Bendix “integral” ABS

24.5 ABS front wheel sensor (arrowed)

9

Warning: Due to the complexityof the system, the very highfluid pressures involved, and theneed for special bleeding

equipment and pressure gauges, anyoperation requiring removal ordisconnection of any hydrauliccomponent, pipe or fitting must only becarried out by a suitably-equippedPeugeot dealer. Failure to heed thiswarning may result in personal injury, ormalfunction of the system at a criticaltime. Work on vehicles equipped with theBendix “integral” ABS should therefore beconfined to routine maintenanceoperations.

15 Unscrew the securing bolt, and removethe sensor from the trailing arm (seeillustration).

Refitting16 Before refitting a sensor, ensure that thetip is clean. Where applicable, on new sensorsremove the protective sticker from the tip.17 Lightly grease the sensor location in thetrailing arm, then refit the sensor.18 Clean the sensor securing bolt, then applythread-locking compound to the bolt threads.Fit the bolt and tighten to the specified torque.

Electronic control unit - Bendix ABS systems

Removal19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.20 The unit is located in the scuttle at the rearof the engine compartment (see illustration).21 Open the bonnet, and unclip the coverfrom the top of the scuttle to expose thecontrol unit.22 Release the securing clip, and disconnectthe wiring plug from the top of the control unit.23 Unscrew the clamp bolts or nuts, asapplicable, securing the unit to the housing,then carefully withdraw the unit. Note that onsome models, it may be necessary todisconnect the control unit wiring harnessearth lead before the unit can be withdrawn.24 Where applicable, separate the controlunit from the mounting bracket.

Refitting25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butwhere applicable ensure that the wiringharness earth lead is securely reconnected.

Electronic control unit - Bosch ABS system

Removal26 Disconnect the battery negative lead, then

unclip the control unit cover from the top ofthe modulator assembly.27 Disconnect the three wiring connectorsfrom the control unit, then slacken andremove the six Torx retaining screws, and liftthe control unit away from the modulatorassembly (see illustration).

Refitting28 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the wiring connectorsare securely reconnected, and do notovertighten the retaining screws.

Hydraulic control unit and modulator assembly -Bendix “integral” ABSNote: Refer to the Warning in Section 23.29 No attempt should be made to removeany of the hydraulic system components onmodels equipped with the Bendix “integral”ABS - refer the operation to a Peugeot dealer.

Modulator assembly - Bendix “additional” ABS

Removal30 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

31 Where applicable, unclip the plasticcover, then disconnect the wiring connectorsfrom the modulator assembly.32 Mark the locations of the hydraulic fluidpipes to ensure correct refitting, then unscrewthe union nuts, and disconnect the pipes fromthe modulator assembly. Be prepared for fluidspillage, and plug the open ends of the pipesand the modulator, to prevent dirt ingress andfurther fluid loss. Note the position of the clipon the brake pipes to ensure correct refitting.33 Working under the modulator, unscrewthe two nuts securing the vertical mountingplate to the main bracket (see illustration).Withdraw the plate and the mounting rubberassembly.34 Unscrew the two nuts securing theremaining mounting studs to the mainbracket, then manipulate the modulatorassembly from the bracket.

Refitting

35 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearingin mind the following.a) Before refitting, examine the mounting

rubbers, and renew if necessary.b) Reconnect the fluid pipes to the

assembly, as noted before removal,ensuring that no dirt enters the system.Ensure that the brake pipe clip is fitted asnoted before removal.

c) Before reconnecting the wiringconnectors, bleed the complete hydraulicsystem as described in Section 2.

Modulator assembly - Bosch ABS36 Refer to paragraphs 30 to 35 of thisSection for the Bendix “additional” ABS.


24.15 Rear wheel ABS sensor (arrowed)

24.27 Bosch ABS electronic control unit

securing screws (arrowed)

24.33 Modulator assembly verticalmounting bracket-to-main bracket nuts

(arrowed) - Bendix “additional” ABS

24.20 Electronic control unit location(arrowed) - Bendix “integral” ABS (left-hand-drive models shown)

Warning: Do not reconnect thewiring connectors to themodulator until the hydrauliccircuits have been bled asdescribed in Section 2.

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