The Fringes of Hong Kong

The outskirts of Hong Kong is where we found some of the most exciting subcultures, unique dining concepts, as well as glimpses into

Hong Kong’s heritage communitiesWords Marisse Gabrielle reyes PhotograPhs Marisse Gabrielle reyes, 3/3rds, THe buTcHers club deli, Tree cafe, and OvOlO

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Hong Kong is an alluring mosaic of

heritage, culture, commerce, and

creative innovation all propelled by

a palpable and pulsating vigor. It’s a city who

has seen and has almost everything: some

of the most cutting-edge bars, thought-

provoking restaurants (with many being

Michelin-rated), and progressive art galleries.

This city is, and has been, on the forefront

of trends, with much of the cool goings-

on trickling down to other Asian cities like

Singapore, Manila, and Bangkok. Yes, the

city’s pace is quick and thick with vigor - but

what happens when this all gets too much?

On this trip to the Pearl of the Orient,

we bypassed the beloved city and made a

beeline for Hong Kong’s neighborhoods on

the rise. And it’s here where we discovered

a wealth of wellness-focused communities

who have crawled out of the city, perhaps

simply because of necessity, away from

the spiral of Hong Hong’s stressful energy

and clouds of smog. We also wandered

around the bare-bones industrial spaces

of Aberdeen, which have provided a blank

canvas for new businesses to paint their

dreams on. We also encountered traditional

communities, like the Tanka people, who

are are still thriving off the industries they

know best.

Fishes hanging to dry at Aberdeen Harbour

The highways of Aberdeen

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Young local hotel chain, Ovolo, are all

about creating design-focused hotels in

real neighborhoods, and they’ve had it out

for Aberdeen, which trendy locals now

call ‘Southside’. Although they have two

hotels in the area, Ovolo Southside (64

Wong Chuk Hang Road, +852 2165 1000)

is a real hot spot. The ground floor of the

hotel doubles as an exhibition space and

the hotel’s interiors are filled with local

contemporary art. The hotel’s interiors mimic

the neighborhood’s industrial aesthetic,

however, luxuries are thrown into the mix:

Malin + Goetz toiletries, impeccable service,

a complimentary mini bar and cocktail

hour, plush bedsheets, and floor-to-ceiling

windows. The hotel’s only eatery, Cirqle, is

outfitted with long, communal tables and

cool Saturday night beats. The menu has a

SOUTHSIDE

Mediterranean focus, but it’s also influenced

by global flavours. A must-try is the Lomi

Lomi salmon salad, which is somewhat of

a ceviche of Asian proportions. In this zesty

dish, chunks of tender raw salmon are

dressed with black sesame, cilantro, and

Ovolo's Cirqle restaurant

Lomi Lomi salmon salad

Mediterranean-focused dishes from Cirqle

Ovolo Southside's industrial chic rooms

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miso. The hotel’s rooftop bar, ABOVE, is a

great place to take in the sights of Aberdeen

from 23 stories off the ground. Here, they

offer unique cocktails such as the Le-Souk

(which is made with Zubrowka vodka, peach

liquor, rose, strawberry, basil, and lemon)

and the Skinny Dragon (which is made

with Campari, prosecco, elderflower, and

cucumber).

At first glance, the surrounding

neighborhood is just another industrial area,

but if you know where to look, you’ll find

warehouses and buildings teeming with

hidden restaurants and art galleries. Just

across the street from Ovolo Southside is

MUM Veggie + Coffee + Sweet (G07, G/F,

One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong

Chuk Hang, +852 2115 3348), a spot that

caters to those who crave healthy eats. This

ground floor space is cozy and quiet, with

its walls decorated with charming multi-

coloured chalk drawings. The food is mild

and fresh with western dishes like burgers,

pastas, and salads on the menu. However

they also offer rotating Asian-inspired

specials like veggie dumplings cooked in soy

milk and spicy fried turnip balls and udon in

Amazing views from ABOVE

Vibrant ABOVE at night

Healthy eats at MUM Veggie + Coffee + Sweet

Lo Lounge at Ovolo Southside

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tomato bisque. Down the street is hidden

jem, 3/3rds (22D, Yally Industrial Building,

6 Yip Fat Street, Wong Chuk Hang, +852

3462 2951), which is tucked away on the

top floor on an industrial building. They have

a delicious salad bar with fresh creations

like roasted aubergine with saffron yoghurt

and peas and beans with mustard seeds.

Their roasted-in-house coffee pairs perfectly

with their brunch staples, which include

lemon pancakes with poached pears as well

as a savoury French toast with avocado,

mushroom, bacon, and paprika maple syrup.

Less than a ten minute walk west is two

storey eatery, The Butchers Club Deli (16F,

Shui Ki Industrial Building, 18 Wong Chuk

Hang Road, Aberdeen, +852 2884 0768).

Fancy and experimental they are not, for

they do comfort grub for meat-lovers. This

joint wears different masks throughout the

day. IBy day, it’s a New York-style deli that

serves up classic comfort grub like reuben

sandwiches, poutine, burgers, and buttermilk

fried chicken. By night, it’s The Butchers

Club’s annex which it offers set dinners and

private dining experiences for parties as

small as two. Aberdeen’s industrial spaces

also seem to provide unique venues for

city-dwellers who’ve experienced almost

everything. Pomegranate Kitchen (4B,

44 Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, +852 2580

0665) is another such place which offers

private dining experiences. Though it’s a

catering company at heart, Pomegranate

also offers their space for themed private

dinners. Founder Maria Bizri has crafted a

myriad of Mediterranean-inspired menus for

fine-dining meals, brunch, and even family-

style dinners.

As gentrified as this neighborhood is

becoming, old Aberdeen lives on too.

Aberdeen Harbour, for instance, is occupied

with traditional fishing boats and floating

seafood restaurants, such as the famous

Jumbo Floating Restaurant (Sham Wan

Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen,

+852 2553 9111). The fishing is done

predominantly by the Tanka people, who live

on boats in the harbour. If you’re looking to

check out the catches of the day, make a

morning visit to Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market (102 Shek Pai Wan Road, Aberdeen,

+853 2552 8853). Although most of the fish

sold here are live and almost immediately

bought up by restaurants. There are small

shops next door to the market which sell

dried seafood, such as conch, fish maw, and

whitebait – perfect edible souvenirs.

3/3rds during lunch hour Roasted aubergine with saffron yoghurt at 3/3rds

The Butchers Club Deli's The Butchers Board

Dry aged steak at The Butchers Club Deli

The Butchers Club Deli

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Just off Aberdeen Harbour is a small island

called Ap Lei Chau, which is also known

as Aberdeen Island or the world’s second

most densely populated island. This mainly

residential area is connected to the main

island of Hong Kong via the 230 metre Ap Lei

Chau bridge. Rooftop restaurant, Artichoke Canteen (3F, Harbour Industrial Centre, 10

Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chau, +852 2580

0293), has a large open-air terrace which

boasts beautiful views of the ocean. Like

many restaurants out of the city, the food

here is health and ecologically conscious.

THE ISLANDS

Ocean views from TREE Cafe

Light bites at TREE CafeChild-friendly TREE Cafe

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Red meat is not served here, instead there

are loads of vegetarian and vegan options

such as the delicious house-made ricotta

and spinach stuffed ravoili in a walnut

crème sauce. A few floors below is urban

winery, The 8th Estate Winery (Room

302, 3F, Harbour Industrial Centre, 10 Lee

Hing Street, Ap Lei Chau, +852 2518 0922).

Here, winemakers Remy Sibony and Eddie

McDougall, create and bottle wines like

Sangiovese, Viognier, and Riesling from

some of the best flash-frozen grapes from

around the world. Just around the corner is

TREE Cafe (28F Horizon Plaza, Ap Lei Chau,

+852 2870 1582), which is housed in eco

furniture boutique TREE. The cafe is held in

a beautiful light-washed space that perfectly

marries the industrial with rustic aesthetic in

a polished and contemporary way. The cafe’s

display cases are filled with baked goods,

such as miniature cupcakes, cakes, and

pies as well as a long list of teas. If you’re

looking for a ritzy one-of-a-kind experience,

however, book a private dinner on 63 foot

yacht just off the coast of Ap Lei Chau at

reservation-only Kea’s Kitchen (Mooring

5345, Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter, +852 6077

5964). The food here, strangely enough,

is Thai, and only seasonal set menus are

available. Although the food is authentically

Thai, the ingredients are premium (think:

kurobuta pork, wagyu beef, and lobster).

A 25 minute ferry ride from Central takes

you to Hong Kong’s third largest island,

Lamma, which is home to almost 6,000

people. The inhabitants of Lamma are an

eclectic mix of locals (with many coming

from a long lineage of fishing families) as

well as foreigners seeking less chaotic

existence. Laws and regulations have helped

to maintain Lamma’s small fisherman village

vibe, as cars are banned and buildings aren’t

allowed to be built higher than three storeys.

Hiking trails, beaches, quaint eateries, and

traditional seafood restaurants provide

much to do for day-trippers from the

mainland. One of the best restaurants on

the island, Tai Yuen Seafood Restaurant (15 First Street, Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island,

+852 2982 8386), boasts an impressive

showcase of live seafood at the front of their

restaurant. The stewed razor clams here

are terrific – cooked in a slightly spicy sauce

which allows the clam’s natural sweetness

to come through. 18-year-old organic

Coffee and muffins at TREE Cafe

TREE Cafe's yoghurt parfait

Great selection of teas offered at TREE Cafe

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vegetarian restaurant, Bookworm Cafe (79

Main Street Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island,

+852 2982 4838), caters to the island’s

growing bohemian population. Their menu is

nutritious, offering comforting veggie-based

eats in sizable portions. Their signature

veggie burger is comprised of a tasty bean

patty slathered with house-made ketchup

and served on a fluffy sesame seed bun

and sided with crispy potato wedges and a

generous mixed salad. A few steps away is

Hong Kong chain Just Green Organic (75

Main Street Yung Shue Wan, Lamma Island,

+852 2982 2325) which has a cozy spot on

Lamma’s main road. Grab an organic beer

or wine and head to the back of the shop,

where there’s a salt air-worn patio which

overlooks the ocean.

Glorious veggie burger at Bookworm Cafe

Bookworm Cafe's soba and sesame salad

Traditional seafood restaurants of Lamma Island

Just Organic's homey interiors

Books galore at Bookworm Cafe

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FactboxGettinG thereThere are several direct flights from

Singapore to Hong Kong, many of them

being operated by budget airliners like

Scoot and Jetstar. Flight time is just under

four hours.

GettinG AroundWhile taxis are efficient and readily

available, public transportation is cost-

efficient easy to use. If you’re staying

for longer than a couple of days, buy an

Octopus Card, which can be used for most

public transport (buses, MTR, minibuses,

ferries, and trams) as well as vending

machines and convenience stores.

CurrenCy5.77 HKD = 1 SGD = 2.80 MYR

ClimAteHong Kong is subtropical and it’s fairly

pleasant to visit any time during the year.

Summers can be quite warm and winters

are generally mild. If you visit during the

rainy season (May-November) make

sure to be prepared for heavy rains and

possible typhoons.

Quaint Lamma Island

Fresh produce offered at Lamma Island

Assorted dried seafood at Lamma Island

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