FASH 15 textiles

yarn classification

yarns

contribute significantly to fabric and product performance

selection affects the fabrics hand, appearance, drape, durability, comfort & many other areas of performance

fiber length

spun yarncomposed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with protruding ends

filament yarncomposed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twistedsmooth filament yarnsstraight, almost parallel fiberstextured-bulk-filament yarnsuniformly bulky

yarn twist

twistspiral arrangement of fibers around yarns axisproduced by rotating one end while holding the other stationarybinds fibers together & contributes to strengthSpecified by number of turns per unit lengthturns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm)

direction

yarn twist

amount of twistlow twistused to maintain integrity within smooth, multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inchnapping twistlofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of napped fabricsaverage twistmost common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarnshard twistharsher hand & more turns per inchcrepe yarnshighest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when removed from fabric

yarn size

yarn numbersize or finenessfilament yarnsweight per unit lengthspun yarnslength per unit weight; generally the finer the yarn, the larger the number

denier systemdescribes yarn size using filament fibersweight in grams per 9,000 meters

tex systemdetermines yarn number in the same way for all yarnsweight in grams per 1,000 meters

yarn regularity

describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its length in terms of appearance & structure

simple yarnsalike in all its partsspun or filament yarn

single yarnone strandsimplest type

yarn regularitysimple yarns

ply yarnmade by second twisting operation that combines two or more singles

cordmade by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns together

ropeheavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or braided together

yarn regularitysewing & embroidery thread

sewing threadyarn intended for stitching materials togetheravailable in broad range of sizes & structuresoften finished with lubricant or waxmost sewing thread is S twist

embroidery threadyarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on textile surfacemost often 2-ply, Z twist

yarn regularityfancy yarns

yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervalsirregularities may be subtle or very obviousintervals may be regular or randomclassified according to number of partsnamed for effect that dominates fabric

yarn regularityfancy yarns

yarn regularityfancy yarns

tweed yarnslub yarnspiral or corkscrewratine yarnsknot, spot, nub, or knopspike or snarlloop, curl or boucle yarnmetallicchenillebraidedknitstitched

yarn regularitycomposite yarns

have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components

include:covered yarnscentral yarn completely covered by fiber or another yarncore-spun yarnsspun sheath of staple fibers around a corefilament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)have staple fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibersmulti-polymer yarnsproduced by pressing staple fibers of any length or generic class in molten polymer streamfasciated yarnsgrouping of filament fibers wrapped with staple fibers

yarn performance & yarn quality

identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is used in fabric & product

standard test methods determine:yarn sizetwistbulkevennessappearanceperformance

yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength and uniformitymore parallel fibers, tighter twist, more regular

participation activityfancy yarns identification

using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the following types of fancy yarns:tweed yarnslub yarnspiral or corkscrewratine yarnsknot, spot, nub, or knopspike or snarl

select 7 different fancy yarns from yarn grab bagmount them to your yarn identification sheetidentify them using the text and complete the information requiredloop, curl or boucle yarnmetallicchenillebraidedknitstitched