woodplans online - barrister's bookcase

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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®

of 12DP-00181 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

barrister’s

This earlyexample of

modularoffice furniture

still makes itcase.

bookcase

You may stack the bookshelfunits up to five high. Withtwo units, as shown aboveyour barrister’s bookcasedoes double duty as a side-board or hall table.

D

F

C

A

D

E

F

FF

A

#20

bisc

uit

„"

cham

ferB

K13

fi"

‹"

cham

fers

J

„"

cham

fer

34"

#20

bisc

uit

E

#8 x

1"

F.H

. woo

d sc

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red

end

fl"

I

I

15"

13"

12fi

"

11‡

"

‡"

›"

C‹

" ra

bbet

›"

deep

„"

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„"

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34‡

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B 15"

2¤"

1‹"

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of 12

1C

ASE

EXPL

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ED V

IEW

TM

of 12

Build a base, a top, and as manybookshelf cases as you wish togo in between. All the parts

simply stack up and screw together.You’ll make your own wood doorguides, and, aside from wood screwsin various sizes, the only hardwareneeded is the knobs.

Note: The Materials List and CuttingDiagram show the number of partsneeded for a one-bookshelf-casebookcase. Multiply the number ofcase parts and door parts by the num-ber of bookshelf cases you wish tomake.

Build the case

1Cut the upper and lower panels(A) to width, but about 1" longer

than listed in the Materials List. Ripthe banding (B) to width, but about 1"longer than listed. Glue and clamp thebanding to the panels. With the gluedry, sand the banding flush with thepanels, and cut the assemblies tolength, trimming both ends.

2With the panels oriented so theirgood sides will face into the case,

rout „" chamfers on the banding,where shown on Drawing 1. Finish-sand the assemblies to 220 grit.

3For the case sides, cut the stiles(C), rails (D), and mullions (E) to

the sizes listed. Install a ›" dadoblade in your tablesaw, and cut thecentered grooves, where shown onDrawing 2.

4To form the tenons on the ends ofthe rails and mullions, switch to a

‹" dado blade. To set the tenons’length, position the fence to the rightof the blade, and ›" from the blade’sleft side. Attach an auxiliary extensionto your miter gauge so it just grazesthe fence. First testing your cuts inscrap, form the tenons, where shownon Drawings 2 and 2a, making twopasses over the blade.

5Resaw and plane stock for theside panels (F), and cut them to

size. So seasonal wood movementwon’t expose unstained wood afterthe project is complete, finish-sandthe panels and apply stain. We usedZAR no. 114 Provincial.

D

EF

C F

D

C

2fi" 9‹"

2‹"4¤"

15"

10Ø"

‹" rabbet›" deep

›" grooves›" deep

›" grooves ›" deep

10‡"

1fi"

D

E

C

›" groove›" deep,centered

›" grooves›" deep, centered

›"

›"‰"

‰"

›"

2fi"

2¤"

2‹"

1fi"

‡"

2 SIDE (Inside face shown)

2a TENON DETAILS (Case side shown)

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6Before assembling the casesides, apply pieces of mask-

ing tape to the rails (D), andmark on them the centered loca-tion of the mullions (E). Guidedby the marks, glue and clampthe mullions between the rails.Add the stained side panels (F)and stiles (C), as shown inPhoto A.

7With the glue dry, cut rab-bets along the case sides’

inside back edges, for the back(K). Rout „" chamfers alongthe sides’ outside edges, and thefront top and bottom corners ofthe front stiles (C), whereshown on Drawing 1. Finish-sand the side assemblies.

8Adjust your biscuit joiner tocenter a slot in the thickness

of the ‡" plywood. Mark theircenterlines, and plunge slots for#20 biscuits in the ends of thecase top and bottom assembliesA/B. Aligning the back edges ofthe top and bottom assemblieswith the edges of the rabbets inthe case sides, transfer the bis-cuit centerlines to the casesides. Plunge the slots in thesides. Glue, biscuit, and clampthe case together, making cer-tain it is square.

9Plane stock to fl" thick forthe door guides (G), and cut

them to size. Cut the grooves onyour tablesaw with a dadoblade, where shown onDrawing 3. Chuck a fi"Forstner bit in your drill press,

A

1"fi"

Œ"

1fi"11‡"

1fi"

17⁄32" groove ›" deepfi" hole

¸" shank hole, countersunkFront

fl"

1¤"

2‹"

fi" hole

fi"

G

and drill the holes. Drill thecountersunk shank holes. Makecertain you have mirror-imageparts. Finish-sand the guides,and clamp them in place, whereshown on Drawing 1. Theends of the guides are flush withthe edge of the sides’ back rab-bets. Using the shank holes as

guides, drill pilot holes into thecase sides, and drive in thescrews. Cut four 1fi"-long oakdowels, and glue two of them inthe guides’ front holes. Set theother two aside for the stops thatwill later be installed in the rearholes.

With the mullion and rails assembled, slide in the panels withoutglue. Glue and clamp the stiles to the rails, keeping them flush at thetop and bottom.

Side panel

Stile

Rail

Mullion

Masking tape with alignment marks

3 DOOR GUIDE (Inside face shown)

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M

N

L

›"

groo

ves

›"

deep

,ce

nter

ed

›"

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et¨

" de

ep, r

oute

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glas

s

#17

x fl

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ire b

rad

1¤"

4fi"

13›

"

28¤

"

‰"

hole ›

"9„

"

O

P

L

2‹"

fi"

dow

el 1

‰"

long

1„"

fi"

hole

‡"

deep

2‹"2Å

"

28Œ

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O

P

Bac

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ate

4D

OO

R (V

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ack

side

)

TM

of 12

10Plane stock for thebumper blocks (H), and

cut them to size. Finish-sand theblocks. Glue and clamp them inplace, where shown onDrawing 1.

11Cut blanks for the sidetrim (I) and the upper

trim (J) about 1" longer than thesizes listed. With a chamfer bitin your table-mounted router,rout the chamfers, whereshown. Miter-cut the side trimsto length. Finish-sand the trims,and glue and clamp them inplace tight against the end of thedoor guides (G) and the frontsides of the bumper blocks (H).Miter-cut the upper trim tolength. Finish-sand the trim,and glue and clamp it in place,aligning it with the side trims.

12Cut the back (K) to size,and drill countersunk

shank holes, where shown onDrawing 1. Finish-sand theback, and set it aside.

When creating a rabbet for the glass by removingthe door frame groove’s ‰"-thick inside lip with arabbeting bit, it is all too easy to tear out long splin-ters, ruining your frame. To avoid this, employ arouting method called “climb-cutting.”

First, to provide clearance for the router bit’s pilotbearing, insert scrap spacers between the frameand the workbench, as shown in the photo, right.Then clamp the door frame securely to your work-bench. You’ll have to stop routing several times,shifting your clamps as you work your way aroundthe frame.

Holding the router firmly, ease the bit into the frameuntil the pilot bearing contacts the outside lip. Slowlymove the router in a counterclockwise directionaround the inside of the frame. You’ll have to resistthe bit’s tendency to grab the wood and pull therouter along. Because the bit’s clockwise rotationpushes the wood fibers toward the frame membersas it cuts, rather than trying to pull them away as innormal routing, tear-out is eliminated.

Once you’ve worked your way around the frame,make a second counterclockwise pass to clean upthe edge.

Climb-cutting avoids tear-out

SHOPTIP

Counterclockwiserouting direction

Although it may appearotherwise, this photoshows climb-cuttingonly a ‰"-thick ›"-wide lip from the doorframe. That’s becausemost of the materialwas removed earlierwhen a centered groovewas cut in the parts.

Clockwise bit rotation

Spacer

Caution:When climb-cutting,remove only a smallamount of stock in asingle pass.

Build the door

1Cut the stiles (L), upper rail(M), and lower rail (N) to

size. In the same manner as inmaking the case sides, cut thecentered grooves, where shownon Drawing 4. Drill the fi"holes in the stiles for the dowels.

2Form the tenons on the endsof the door rails in the same

manner as in making the casesides. Glue and clamp the doorframe together, making sure it issquare and flat. With the gluedry, cut the fi" dowels to length,and glue them in the stiles’holes.

3To make the rabbeted open-ing for the glass, chuck a ›"

rabbeting bit in your handheldrouter. With the bit’s pilot bear-ing riding on the groove’s out-side lip, rout away the groove’sinside lip, forming a ¨"-deeprabbet. For best results, see theShop Tip below. Square thecorners with a chisel.

4Mark the knob locations,where shown on Drawing

4. Drill the screw holes, andfinish-sand the door.

5Resaw and plane stock forthe vertical stops (O) and

horizontal stops (P). Cutthem to size. Clip the headoff a #17 wire brad, and use itto drill pilot holes in thestops, where shown. Sand thestops to 220 grit.

On to the base and top

1Plane down thicker stock orlaminate thinner stock for

the feet (Q), and cut them tosize. Rout ¤" chamfers on theirbottom edges.

2Cut the front and back rails(R) and the side rails (S) to

size. Mark the ends and centersof the arches, where shown onDrawing 5. Bend a fairingstick to these points, and drawthe arches. Bandsaw and sandthem to shape.

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Q

S

34‡

"12

fl"

36‹

"

1fi"32

fi"

16‹

"

3"

¤"

¤"

cham

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10"

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4‹"

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2‡"

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Q

Q

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e:Th

e ve

rtic

al a

nd h

oriz

onta

l st

ops

(O,

P)

are

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the

cor

ners

, ra

ther

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n m

itere

d.O

nce

mite

red

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pie

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ocks

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out

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5B

ASE

TM

of 12

3Adjust your biscuit joiner tocenter a slot in the thickness

of the feet. Mark the slot center-lines on the outside faces of thefeet, where shown on Drawing5. Plunge the slots. Align therails with the feet, keeping theirtop edges flush, and transfer theslot centerlines to the outsidefaces of the rails. Readjust yourbiscuit joiner to center a slot inthe thickness of the rails, andplunge the slots. Finish-sand thefeet and rails.

4Glue, biscuit, and clamp apair of legs to the front and

back rails. With the glue dry,form a frame by gluing, biscuit-ing, and clamping the side railsin place. Make certain thefeet/rails assembly (Q/R/S) issquare and flat.

5Cut the base panel (T) to thesize listed. Rip the front

banding (U) and side bandings(V) to width, but about 1"longer than listed. Miter oneend of each band. Fit and markthe front band, as shown inPhotos B and C, and miter-cutit to length. With all three bandsclamped in place, mark the sidebands flush with the back edgeof the base panel (T), and trimthem to length. Glue and clampthe bands to the base panel.With the glue dry, sand thebands flush with the panel, androut chamfers, where shown.Finish-sand the base panelassembly.

6To complete the base assem-bly, mark the centerpoints of

the countersunk shank holes inthe base panel, where shown onDrawing 5, and drill them.Clamp the base panel assembly(T/U/V) to the feet and railsassembly (Q/R/S), flush at theback, and centered side-to-side.Using the shank holes in thebase panel as guides, drill pilotholes into the rails, and drive inthe screws.

7Edge-join an oversize blankfor the top (W). With the

B

C

Fit the mitered ends of the side and front bands around the panel’sfirst corner, temporarily clamping them in place…

Base panel

Front band

Side band

The oversize side band protrudesat the rear. Mark and trim it tolength after fitting the front band.

…then using a sharp pencil and a ruler, mark the miter’s heel on thefront band at the panel’s second corner.

Side band

Base panel

Front band

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The purchase of these plans does not transferany copyright or other ownership interest in theplans, the design, or the finished project to thebuyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plansfor sale nor offer for sale any copies of the fin-ished project.

Produced by Marlen KemmetWritten by Jan Svec with Chuck HedlundProject design: Kevin BoyleGraphic Design: Jamie DowningIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

glue dry, cut it to finished size.With your tablesaw set up asshown on Drawing 6, cutbevels along the bottom of thetop’s ends, then front edge,where shown on Drawing 7.Sand away the saw-blademarks, backing your sandpaperwith a firm block to keep thebevels’ edges crisp. Rout cham-fers along the upper front edgeand ends, where shown. Finish-sand the top.

8Cut the crest (X) to the sizelisted. Make marks at the

center of the top edge and 1‡"up from the bottom at the ends,where shown on Drawing 7.Connect the marks with astraightedge, and draw the topprofile. Draw the radii at theends. Bandsaw and sand thecrest to shape. Rout the cham-fer. Finish-sand the crest.

9Glue and clamp the crest (X)to the top (W), centered,

where shown on Drawing 7.Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes through the top intothe crest, and drive in thescrews.

Bottom face

1‹"

Blade tilted 17°from vertical Tablesaw

Fence

Tallauxiliary

fenceW

Apply the finish, andassemble

1Examine all the parts andassemblies, and resand any

areas that need it. If you wish,apply a stain, and let it dry. Weused ZAR no. 114 Provincial.

2Apply a clear finish. To addan amber tone to the stain’s

color, we brushed on oil-basedsatin polyurethane.

3Lay the bookshelf case onits back on your workbench.

Clamp the base to it, flush at theback and centered side-to-side.Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes through the basepanel (T) into the case’s lowerpanel (A), where shown onDrawing 7, and drive in thescrews. Clamp the top assemblyto the case, flush at the back andcentered side-to-side. Drill pilotand countersunk shank holesthrough the case’s upper panel(A) into the top (W), whereshown, and drive in the screws.Stand the assembly upright.

4Have single-strength glasscut ¤" smaller in width and

length than the door’s rabbeted

opening. Lay the door face-down, and install the glass.Position the stops (O, P), anddrive brads through the previ-ously drilled pilot holes. Set thebrads, and fill the holes with amatching color putty stick.

5Apply wax to the grooves inthe door guides (G) and their

dowels. Install the door fromthe rear, sliding it over the doorguide dowels at the front, andengaging the door’s dowels inthe guides’ grooves. Retrievethe two door-stop dowels, andtap them into the guides’ rearholes. Do not glue them in.

6Clamp the back (K) in place.Using the previously drilled

shank holes as guides, drill pilotholes into the case. Drive in thescrews.

7Install the knobs. Drill pilotholes for the tack bumpers,

positioning them to leave ‡"between the bumpers and thebumper blocks’ front edges.Tap in the tack bumpers. ¿

6 TOP PROFILE DETAIL

D

F

K

X

C

A

C

D

F

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MN

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shan

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A

H

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TM

of 12

7EX

PLO

DED

VIE

W

TM

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‡ x 48 x 48" Oak plywood

T

A

A

M

CC

D D E

LB‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 BF)

N

XSQ QQQ U V

F FFF WG

OH

W W

‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 BF)

‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 BF)

‡ x 5fi x 96" Quartersawn white oak (4 BF)

** ***

*****

P JI

*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.

K

‹ x 24 x 48" Oak plywood

S

R R

Cutting Diagram

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Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Case T W L Matl. Qty.A* upper and lower

panels ‡" 11‡" 34" OP 2

B* banding ‡" ‡" 34" QO 2

C stiles ‡" 2‹" 15" QO 4

D rails ‡" 2fi" 9‹" QO 4

E mullions ‡" 1fi" 10‡" QO 2

F side panels ›" 4¤" 10Ø" QO 4

G door guides fl" 2‹" 11‡" QO 2

H bumper blocks fl" 1‹" 2¤" QO 2

I* side trim fl" fl" 13fi" QO 2

J* upper trim fl" fl" 34" QO 1

K back ‹" 15" 34‡" OP 1

DoorL stiles ‡" 2‹" 13›" QO 2

M upper rail ‡" 2Å" 28Œ" QO 1

N lower rail ‡" 2‹" 28Œ" QO 1

O vertical stops ›" ›" 9„" QO 2

P horizontal stops ›" ›" 28¤" QO 2

Base and TopQ feet 1fi" 1fi" 4‹" LQO 4

R front and backrails ‡" 3" 32fi" QO 2

S side rails ‡" 3" 10" QO 2

T base panel ‡" 12fl" 34‡" OP 1

U* front band ‡" ‡" 36‹" QO 1

V* side bands ‡" ‡" 13›" QO 2

W* top ‡" 14fl" 38‡" EQO 1

X crest ‡" 2fi" 35fi" QO 1

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: OP–oak plywood, QO–quartersawnwhite oak, LQO–laminated quartersawn white oak,EQO–edge-joined quartersawn white oak.

Supplies: #20 biscuits; fi" oak dowel; #8×1",#8×1‹", #8×1fi", and #4×fi" flathead wood screws;#17×fl" wire brads; single-strength glass; fi"-diametertack bumpers; putty stick; paraffin wax.

Blades and bits: Stack dado set, fi" Forstner bit,chamfer router bit, ›" rabbeting router bit.

Buying GuideKnobs. Antique brass Œ"-diameter knobs with 1"back plates no. MS-8, $4.75 each (2 per door).Horton Brasses, call 800/754-9127, or go towww.horton-brasses.com.

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