Using Vanilla and Vanilla-containing Fragrance Oils in Your Soap

Using Vanilla and Vanilla-containing Fragrance Oils in Your SoapWhether Ivory to Chocolate - It's Going to be BROWN

ByDavid FisherI've seen it happen...I've lived it.You get a fabulous new fragrance oil from a supplier, a swap, a friend. You try it out in a new batch of soap. No problems! Your soap comes out its normal lovely off-white color as it's poured in the mold. You cover it up and leave it to harden over night.

But something happens in the night. You come into the kitchen and unmold the soap. You notice that the top of the soap, that has been exposed to the air overnight, is slightly darker - just a tiny bit - than the rest of the creamy off-white soap. You think nothing of it, slice the bars, and put them on the rack to cure.

The next day, you walk into your soap room (or wherever you have your soap curing), take one look at your soap and are stopped in your tracks - it's brown! Maybe not deep chocolate brown, but definitely brown! The next day...it's even browner...and the next...even browner!

What happened?

You've used a fragrance oil that contains vanilla. There is a chemical component in the vanilla that turns brown when it is exposed first to the lye, and then to the air. It's that simple. If you used a "vanilla" fragrance oil (Vanilla, French Vanilla, Warm Vanilla Sugar etc.), your soap will likely turn a deep chocolate brown over the course of about two weeks.However, I hear you cry, you didn't use a vanilla fragrance! You used "Mint Chocolate" or "Pumpkin Spice" or "Sandalwood"! Many many fragrance blends have a little bit of vanilla in them. It warms the blends, rounds out the base tones. It's a lovely part of the blends - if it weren't for the turning brown part. The more vanilla there is in the blend, the more brown it's going to turn. I had a sandalwood blend that turned a light beige. The Pumpkin Spice blend I used in the pics on the right didn't smell very "vanilla-like" but it had a lot of vanilla in it anyway. It was a medium brown after just two days!

The Solution?Unfortunately, there really isn't one. For one, be sure to ask your fragrance supplier, or look on the website, for fragrance oil notes. Many suppliers will tell you if the fragrance will discolor. You can also check out theScent Review Boardor theSoap Dish Forumfor comments about a particular supplier's fragrance. If there's one you just have to use that discolors, I recommend you just embrace the brown. Make a brown-themed soap. Add some cinnamon or brown oxide to make it even browner. Add a bit of red for a red and brown swirl. Add some gold mica for a bit of gold shimmer in the brown. You can also ladle out a bit of the soapbeforeyou add the fragrance oil, and do a swirl with the unscented part. You'll get a white & brown swirl.

There are "vanilla neutralizers" on the market, but I've not had very good luck with them. I think it's better just to know that you're going to have discoloration ahead of time...and plan for it.

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/tipstricks/qt/vanilladiscolor.htmWhy Did my Soap Turn Brown?

posted byAnne-Marie Faiola Wednesday, October 2nd, 2013

Welcome to Wednesday, everyone! As a midweek soapy pick-me-up, were addressing a question weve heard all too often in the Bramble Berry offices:Why did my soap turn brown?!If youve had a few batches of soap under your belt, youve likely encountered some kind of discoloration. Were here to clear up some confusion! While your fragrances may look relatively clear or white out of the bottle, the truth is they may contain vanilla, which while great for baking is not so great for behaving predictably in soap.

If you are making melt and pour soap, you can use theVanilla Color Stabilizer(VCS) to prevent discoloration. It counteracts the vanilla in the fragrance oil, keeping your colors bright and vibrant. If you are making cold process soap, you can try using the VCS but keep in mind that it wont last forever in cold process soap. Eventually, the soap will discolor. However, this doesnt have to be a bad thing either, as natural discoloration can result in some beautiful colors. Read on to find out more about discoloration and how you can use it to your advantage.

Even if your soap appears correctly colored at first, after a few days it will reveal its true colors! This is the discoloration that appeared a few days after soaping, and eventually the entire bar will turn that same creamy chocolate brown.Vanilla is a flavor derived from orchids. Vanilla pods start out very green and then darken to brown as the pod ages and ripens. The darkening of the vanilla bean is caused by various reactions in some of the components mainly the vanillin. Vanillin is the organic compound that gives vanilla its flavor. Vanillin discoloration is a 100% natural process that can be slowed by adding chemicals to stabilize the fragrance. Even then, the reaction and discoloration will still happen. This color can range anywhere from a slight yellow all the way to a dark brown (the same color as a dried vanilla pod and real vanilla extract). Below are examples of various percentages of vanilla in a basic cold process recipes. There were no colorants added to these soaps; it was simply the vanilla causing the discoloration!

You can actually use the discoloration of the vanilla to your advantage and create some pretty awesome designs. In fact, if you have theSoap Crafting book, check out the Black and White soap recipe (on page 60) to learn more about how you can use discoloration to your advantage. If you dont have the book yet, you can get some discoloring inspiration from the following blog posts:

The fragrances have been separated into four groups based on their vanilla content: 0 5%, 5.1 10%, 10.1 15% and 15 20%. You can see examples of these four ranges of discoloration in the photos above. While these photos are not meant to represent all the levels of discoloration that might occur in that range, they will give you an idea of what you can expect!

http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/why-did-my-soap-turn-brown/Coloring Soap with Vanilla Fragrance OilIf you can't beat it...

ByDavid FisherAs I explained in my article,Using Vanilla or Vanilla Fragrance Oils in Your Soaps, vanilla and vanilla-containing fragrance oils will turn your soap brown...sometimes deep brown. And remember, it's not just scents with "Vanilla" in the name that will do it. Vanilla is a greatbase notein fragrance blends, somanyfragrance blends use vanilla as a component to help ground, deepen and mellow the blend.

Well, if you can't beat it, join it.

In a batch I made recently, I embraced the vanilla, and actually used it to make a nice swirl. I made the batch as normal (Basic Soap Making Instructions) but, knowing that the vanilla fragrance oil was going to turn the soap brown, I planned ahead. I designed the recipe as a "Lavender Vanilla" soap. The batch I made took about 2 ounces of fragrance oil. I measured out one ounce of lavender essential oil, and one ounce of vanilla fragrance oil. Right after the soap reached very lighttraceI separated the raw soap into two parts. To one, I added the lavender oil, to the other, the vanilla. After mixing them in well, I layered the soap into the mold and swirled it a bit. In the mold, you could hardly tell the difference in the two soap mixtures...but after I cut it, and it sat for a few days...voila...a lovely brown and tan swirl! I've also done this with orange essential oil and vanilla (lemon is yummy too), pine or Christmas scents and vanilla, and floral scents like ylang ylang or geranium and vanilla. Ehhh...pretty much everything blends well with vanilla...so give it a try.

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/tipstricks/a/vanillaswirl.htmWill Your Fragrance Oil Discolor My CP Soap?Many fragrance oils may cause varying degrees ofdiscolorationin CP soap from a light, creamy color to a deep, dark brown. Vanilla- and Chocolate-scented fragrance oils often cause especially dark discolorations in CP soap.

Some of these fragrances that discolor CP soap very dark may also affect the color of the soap's lather, depending on the recipe you use. This will not affect the performance of the soap, and should rinse clean.

Do You Recommend Any Whiteners To Compensate For CP Soap Discoloration?No, we donotrecommend using a whitener neither Titanium Dioxide nor so-called Vanilla Stabilizers to prevent a fragrance oil from discoloring CP soap. We have never had success with these methods. Moreover, the introduction of the chemicals may result in an unpleasant odor, chalky soap texture, and/or other such undesirable effects.

http://store.scent-works.com/froilfaq.htmlWhy do some fragrances turn brown?

Vanilla based fragrances will always turn color...the more vanilla, the more likely the soap will eventually turn dark brown. The color change can occur from days to weeks to months. It is most often associated with the vanilla level in the fragrance oils. It is an inherent property of the ingredients. There is a product on the market called "Vanilla Color Stabilizer". This product is added to MP Soap and it will stop a vanilla fragrance from turning brown. It does not work in CP or HP Soap.

http://www.soapteacher.com/StoreCategory.aspx?CategoryID=20&CategoryName=Fragrance+%26+Essential+OilsFrench Vanilla Almond:2 cups Soap Base1/3 cups Ground Almonds2 tablespoons Almond Oil1/2 tablespoon Almond FO1/2 tablespoon Vanilla FO

Green Tea:2 cups opague Soap Base2 tablespons Rice Flour1/2 tablespoon Green Tea FO1/2 tablespoon Jasmine FO1 Tea Bag of Green Tea with Jasmine FlowersColors: 1 drop Blue and 6 drops Orange

Healing Skin Soap:2 cups Soap Base2 tablespoons Emu oil3 drops each of Carrot Seed and Rose Otto Eo

Lavender/Rosemary/Aloe:2 cup Opaque Soap Base1 tablespoon Powdered Lavender Flowersand Rosemary Leaves1/2 teaspoon Lavender and Rosemary eo2 tablespoons Coconut Oil

2 cups Clear soap Base1/2 c Aloe Vera Gel

Lemon/Lime:2 cups Clear Soap Base1/2 teaspoon Each of Lemon and Lime EOLemon Orange Peel:1 cup Clear Soap Base1 teaspoon Orange/Mandarinor Tangerine EO

1 cup Opaque Soap Base1 teaspoon Lemon EO1/2 teaspoon Lemon or Orange Peel

Cure Longer!!!

Moisturizing Lavender Soap:1 lb. Clear Soap Base1 teaspoon Cocoa Butter1 teaspoon ground Lavender Flowers1/2 teaspoon Lavender EO

Vanilla Orange:2 cups Opaque Soap Base1 tablespoon Vanilla FO

1 cup Clear Soap Base1/2 teaspoon Sweet Orange EO

Wild Honeysuckle and Honey:1 cup Opaque Soap Base1/2 tablespoon Wild Honesuckle FO

1 cup Clear Soap Base2 tablespoons Honey

Wild Honeysuckle/ Honey/Milk:Add 2 tablespoons of Powdered Milk toWild Honeysuckle and Honey Recipe

(English) Rose/ Honeysuckle:3 cups Soap Base2 tablespoons English Rose FO1/2 tablespoon of Honeysuckle FOCalamine Soap:2 cups Soap Base4 tablespoons Calamine Lotion2 tablespoon French White Clay1 teaspoon of Lavender EO

Citrus & Calendula Soap:2 cups Soap Base1/4 cup Calendula Petals1/2 tsp. Grapefruit EO1/4 tsp. Tangerine EO1/4 tsp. Lemon EO1 tablespoon Shea Butter

Calendula/Lavender/Oatmeal:2 cups Opaque Soap Base1/2 cup Powdered Oatmeal1 tablespoon Powdered Calendulaand Lavender Flowers1 teaspoon Lavender EO

Chamomile Oatmeal Soap:2 cups Opaque Soap Base1 teaspoon Sweet Almond Oil1 teaspoon Citrus EO1 teaspoon Powdered Oatmeal1 teaspoon Powdered Chamomile Flowers

Cranberry Orange:2 cups Soap Base1/2 tablespoon of Cranberry FO1/2 teaspoon Orange EO

Earth Clay Soap:2 cups Soap Base1 T. Clay2 T. Jojoba Oil1 tablespoon Fressia EOVanilla can discolor soap. A Color Stabilizer must be used to prevent discoloration. Make sure to check with the manufacturer. Otherwise, your soap may turn brown.There are many things that can be added to soaps. Some of the additives are commercially obtained, but this doesn't mean that you can't just get something from your cupboard.

For example, if I decide to make a soap to look like and smell like a strawberry cupcake, then I would use a pinch of poppy seeds to give the impression of strawberries. I would also whip up an opague soap to look like frosting.

Remember that your imagination is what determines what you can do --I consider soapmaking an art form. So be creative!!

Beeswaxcan be added to soap formulas to make the bar harder.

Dyes:

Neon Concentrate dyes will not migrate or bleed in MP soap base, and work equally well in clear or white soap. Shake well before using. Neon and Liquid Shocker Concentrates clear soap will become slightly cloudy and there may be a small amount of natural sediment (this is in all natural product). These colors do not migrate when embedded in soap. Heat the bottle in the microwave for 5 seconds if you have trouble mixing the color (first remove the foil cap liner from the bottle).

Opague Concentrate dyes are best used with clear bases. Each color is pastel--ldue to the white undertone.

Pigment Concentrate dyes are made from all natural ingredients. They do not migrate or "bleed" when layered and tend to look more natural than other colors.

Sparkle Concentrate dyes give your soap a luster appearance, much like the colors in frosted lipstick. These colors are really intended for clear soap (they tend to get lost in opaque bases). Some of these colors migrate in soap, while others do not.

Natural Dyes:

The first synethic dye was developed by an English Chemist by the name of William Henry Perkins in 1856. This discovery replaced all natural dyes that were used in the textile industry by 1915. Between the 1920s and 1970s a renewed interest in natural dyes was ignited by crafters and artists.

Here is a small list for using nature for dyes:

Calendula flowers will produce shades of yellow, olive green and brown.

Elderberry berries will produce pinks, violet and blue-gray. The leaves will produce pale green, gold and olive green.

Eucalyptus bark will produce reddish-brown, tan and gray. The dried leaves will produce soft orange, brown and yellow-green. Fresh leaves will produce orange and red.

Henna leaves will produce shades of brown.

Indigo leaves will produce shades of blue.

Nettle tops will produce yellow, yellow-green, gray-green and gold.

Onion skins will produce yellow, orange, brown and olive green.

St. John's wort tops will produce yellow, tan and brown. The flowers will produce olive, red and yellow.

Turmeric roots will produce gold, yellow, orange, dark olive green, and brown.

Yarrow tops will produce yellow, yellow-green and olive.

Herbs:

Calendula soothes rough, dry skin, and is gentle enough for babies.

Chamomile refeshs and softens skin. It is for light complexions.

Comfrey rejuvenates skin cells.

Echinacea has antibiotics properties and is good as an acne soap.

Elderberry helps soften age lines.

Lavender is good for oily skin. It is a natural antiseptic and is very relaxing.

Lemon Verbena just smell great when combined with lemon balm and lemongrass.

Mint leaves are good for oily skin and acne. It has antibacterial properties and has an uplifting effect.

Oats are healing and soften the skin. It also makes soap cure faster.

Plantain helps heal skin problems; such as sores and wounds.

Rosemary softens and conditions the skin. It is best used for darker complexions.

Thyme is good for oily skin and can be used in acne soap.

Oils and Butters:

Essential Oils-Use no more than 1 teaspoon per pound of soap.

Fragrance Oils-Use no more than 1 tablespoon per pound of soap.Fragrances that contain vanilla can discolor Soap (and more fragrances contain vanilla than you might expect). A color stabilizer must be used to prevent discoloration. Use one tablespoon per pound of soap.

Sweet Almond Oil is moisturizing and soothing. It makes a smooth satin stable lather. It is nutrient-rich and is suitable for all skin types. Some people are allergic to almond.

Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient oil, it is good for premature aging skin, dry and sensitive skin. It is highly moisturizing, and gives stable lather when used in making soap. It is good for all skin types.

Avocado Oil is a rich, nourishing oil.It absorbs into the skin and scalp easily and is high in vitamin A & E.It is good for dry and damaged skin and is known to help with eczema and psoriases.

Calendula Oil is made by infusing calendula petals in a good carrier oil like olive or sweet almond. Historically it is known for healing wounds, dry and damaged skin and for eczema and soothing skin eruptions. Is very mild and can be used in baby soaps. Good for all skin types.

Canola Oil (also known as rapeseed oil) is often used in place of olive oil in soap formulas. It is not as good as olive oil but it is cheaper.

Castor Oil is often used to enhance lather of soap. Only small amounts are used, since it can make soap soft.

Cocoa Butter makes soaps harder and add emollients. It has a natural chocolate smell. It has wonderful skin softening and moisturizing properties. Good for normal to dry skin.

Coconut Oil enhances soap lather and is good for the skin. Do not buy product that says "derived from Coconut oil" this is the synthetic foam booster "sodium lauryl sulfate" that has been linked to many skin allergies.

Carrot Root Oil is an essential oil. It is high in vitamin A and beta-carotene and is healing to dry and mature skin.

Emu Oil should be only with essential oils and herbs since it enhances them. This oil is said to help sore muscles, aching joints, pain and inflammation. It helps rejuvenate skin cells and reduces scarring. It is good for helping eczema and psoriasis, and it is good for all skin types.

Evening Primrose Oil contains GLA (gamma-linoleic acid). It blends well with other carrier oils, is mildly astringent and it is used as a treatment for dry, flaky skin and skin prone to eczema, psoriasis, etc.

Grapeseed Oil has emollient properties. It is a light, penetrating oil and it good for all skin types.

Hemp Seed Oil is a source of essential fatty acids, high in minerals and vitamin A.

Jojoba Oil is really a liquid wax. It is said to be closely related to human sebum and this makes it very compatible with our skin. It can be used for acne and pimples and for dry and damaged skin. It is also a fixitive for the scenting oils.

Kokum Butter is from the root of the Garcinia indica tree grown in India. It is similar to shea butter.

Lard (pork fat) make soap hard. Good to use when using vegetable oils that have a tendency to make a softer soap.

Mango Butter is made from the fruit seed of the mango tree grown in the sub-tropics. It is slightly more solid than shea butter but gives the same characteristics to soap.

Neem Oil is known for for helping skin problems like eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin.

Olive Oil is what Castile soap is made from. It is healing and moisturizing to the skin. It makes dense tiny lather when used alone, but you can add a bit of castor oil to make larger and longer lasting bubbles.

Palm Kernel Oil or Flakes can be used instead of Coconut Oil. It seems to be more gentle to the skin, without causing dryness.

Palm Oil can be used instead of lard or tallow for making a totally Veggie soap. Its properties are similar to Coconut oil and makes an mild soap.

Peanut Oil is an emollient and is food for all dry skin types.

Pomace Olive Oil is extracted from the residues (from previous pressings), skins and pits (pomace) of olives. The final bar of 100% pomace tends to be somewhat softer than those made from virgin or midgrade olive oil.

Sesame Seed Oil is said to be good for psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, and arthritis.

Shea Butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree, and it is extremely moisturizing. Unrefined Shea Butter (also known as karite butter) is more penetrating than the refined, because it has not been chemically treated and stripped of its vitamin and nutritious values.

Shortening (Vegetable) is made of hydrogenated soybean oil and is an inexpensive way to add hardness to soap. It is mild and has a stable lather.

St. Johns Wort is infused into a carrier oil such as olive or sweet almond. It is used for muscular pain and to help relieve nervous skin rashes. It is an anti-inflammatory oil that is soothing and helpful to wounds.

Sunflower Oil is an emollient oil extracted from sunflower seeds. It is rich in essential fatty acids, but has a short shelf life. Good for all skin types.

Tallow (Beef) like lard was used as a main base in soapmaking before vegetable oils were introduced into soapmaking. Suet is the hard fat from around the beef kidneys. Suet is the highest quality tallow. Makes a hard white bar and is a good additive to liquid vegetable oils.

Turkey Red Oil is sulfonated castor oil. It has been processed so it mixes with water more easily. It is not recommended for soapmaking.

Walnut Oil is extracted from walnuts, and has soothing and moisturizing qualities. Good for all dry skin types.

Wheat germ Oil has a strong odor. It is rich in vitamin E, (a natural antioxidant), a natural preservative and has a long shelf life.

Liquid Glycerinis added 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of soap to increase suds.

Micasgive your products a sparkle. For the best effect, the base product should be clear (not opaque soap). Mix with a small amount of base product to eliminate clumps, and then add this mixture to your entire batch. When adding mica to glycerin soap, mix in a tablespoon of water first, then add to the melted soap.References:

Culinary Herb Goes Dye Crazy by Susan M. Strawn; The Herb Companion September 2004

Melt and Pour Soapmaking by Marie Browning

Soapmaking for the First Time by Linda Orton

Suds Up Your Harvest by Marguerite King; The Herb Companion September 2004

Transparent Soapmaking by Catherine Failor

Home>Just the FAQs>Glossary of Terms

Glossary of Terms

AccelerationAcid ValueAOCSAutoignition TemperatureBoiling PointBotanical NameCASCode of PracticeCold TestCloud PointCTFACosmeticDangerous GoodsDensityDewaxingDiscolorationEINECSEssential OilsFatsFatty AcidsFCC (Food Chemicals Codex)Flammable LiquidFlashpointFragrance Industry IngredientsFO (Fragrance Oil)Fragrance NotesGRASHLB SystemHMISHydrosolHydroxyl ValueICBNIFRAINCIIodine ValueJCIDKOH ValueLipidsLovibond ColorMelting PointMiscibilityNaOH ValueNeatNon-volatile ContentNotes(see "Fragrance Notes")OilOSI (Oil Stability Index)PerformancePeroxide ValuepHPour PointRefractive IndexRIFMSaponificationSAP ValueScent StrengthShelf LifeSolubilitySpecific GravityStabilityTraceTrace ElementsUnsaponifiable MatterVegetable OilsViscosityVolatility

Acceleration

The term acceleration, or, more accurately, accelerating trace, in soap-making refers to speeding up of the process known as Trace.

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Acid Value

The acid value is the number of milligrams ofpotassium hydroxidenecessary to neutralize the free acids in 1 gram of sample. With samples that contain virtually no free acids other thanfatty acids, the acid value may be directly converted by means of a suitable factor to percentfree fatty acids.

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AOCS

AOCS is an acronym standing forThe American Oil Chemists' Society, "...a global professional scientific society for all individuals and corporations with interest in the fats, oils, surfactants, detergents and related materials fields. The Society produces theOfficial Methods and Recommended Practices of the AOCS. Currently in it's 6th Edition, this document includes over 400 analytical methods critical to processing, trading, utilizing, and evaluating fats, oils, and lipid products.

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Autoignition Temperature

The Autoignition Temperature of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. The temperature at which a substance will ignite decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases.

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Boiling Point

Boiling Point is the temperature at which the vapor pressure of a liquid equals atmospheric pressure or at which the liquid changes to a vapor. If a flammable material has a low Boiling Point, it indicates a special fire hazard.

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Botanical Name

A Botanical Name is a formal name conforming to theInternational Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN). The purpose of such a formal name is to have a single name worldwide for a particular plant or plant group.

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CAS

CAS is an acronym for theChemical Abstract Service, a division of theAmerican Chemical Society. A CAS Number (or CAS Registry Number) is a unique numeric identifier for chemical substances found in the CAS Registry (the "Registry").

The CAS Registry is the largest and most current database of chemical substance information in the world, containing more than 32 million organic and inorganic substances and nearly 60 million sequences. The Registry covers substances identified from the scientific literature from 1957 to the present, with additional substances going back to the early 1900s.

The CAS Registry contains a wide variety of substances, including the world's largest collection of Organic compounds, Inorganic compounds, Metals, Alloys, Minerals, Coordination compounds, Organometallics, Elements, Isotopes, Nuclear particles, Proteins and nucleic acids, Polymers, and Nonstructurable materials (UVCBs).

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Code of Practice

TheIFRACode of Practice is a comprehensive document that supports our commitment to provide products that are safe for use by the consumer and to the environment.

The Code of Practice applies to the manufacture and handling of all fragrance materials, for all types of applications and contains the full set of IFRA Standards. Abiding by the IFRA Code of Practice is a prerequisite for all fragrance supplier companies that are members of IFRA (either directly or through national associations). The majority of client companies (including producers of toiletries and household products) expect their fragrances to comply with IFRA Standards as set out in the Code.

Amendments to the Code, if required, are issued annually, based on new scientific developments. These contain either new usage restrictions or revisions of existing usage restrictions.

The IFRA Code of Practice is distributed worldwide and is in the hands of all member associations and their member companies, including governmental regulatory bodies and many other stakeholders. It is also available to allhere.

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Cold Test

This method measures the resistance of the test sample to crystallization and is commonly used as an index of the winterization and stearin removal process. Also seeCloud Point.

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Cloud Point

The cloud point offatty acidsis the temperature at which the clear fatty acid becomes hazy (or "cloudy"), due to the crystallization of higher melting components, when the product is cooled under specified conditions.

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CTFA

CTFA is an acronym for the AmericanCosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association. Originally, the Toilet Goods Association (TGA), the CTFA, through it's approximately 600 member companies, ...provides a complete range of services that support the personal care products industrys needs and interests in the scientific, legal, regulatory, legislative, and international fields.

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Cosmetic

As defined in theFederal Food , Drug and Cosmetic Actunder Section 201(i), the term "cosmetic" means... (1) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and (2) articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap.

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Dangerous Goods

As used in reference to the transport of Hazardous Materials, the term Dangerous Goods shall refer to any material having a Flashpoint at or below 60.5 degrees Celsius (141 degrees Fahrenheit).

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Density

The density of a material is defined as its mass per unit volume. Mathematically, density is expressed as

=m/V

where

is the density,mis the mass, andVis the volume.

Also seeSpecific Gravity.

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Dewaxing

Dewaxing is the process of removing wax from a base oil to improve low temperature properties, especially to lower thecloud pointandpour point.

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Discoloration

Discoloration in soap-making, for our purposes, describes the alteration of hue or appearance from the otherwise inherent color of the soap.

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EINECS

EINECS, is an acronym referring to The European Inventory of Existing Commercial Substances. An EINECS Number is the seven-digit code that is assigned to chemical substances that are commercially available within the European Union.

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Essential Oils

An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. Essential oils are also known as volatile, ethereal oils or aetherolea, or simply as the "oil of" the plant from which they were extracted, such as oil of clove. An oil is "essential" in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. Essential oils do not as a group need to have any specific chemical properties in common, beyond conveying characteristic fragrances.

Essential oils are extracted from their plant hosts using a variety of methods including distillation, expressing, and solvent extraction (see "Extraction Methods for Plant Oilsfor further information). They are used in perfumes, cosmetics, soap and other products, for flavoring food and drink, and for scenting incense and household cleaning products.

Various essential oils have been used medicinally at different periods in history. Medical applications range from skin treatments to remedies for cancer, and are often based on historical use of these oils for these purposes. Such claims are now subject to regulation in most countries, and have grown more vague to stay within these regulations.

Interest in essential oils has revived in recent decades with the popularity of aromatherapy, a branch of alternative medicine which claims that the specific aromas carried by essential oils have curative effects. Oils are volatilized or diluted in a carrier oil and used in massage, diffused in the air by a nebulizer or by heating over a candle flame, or burned as incense, for example.

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Fats

Fats consist of a wide group of compounds that are generally soluble in organic solvents and largely insoluble in water. Chemically, fats are generally triesters of glycerol andfatty acids. Fats may be either solid or liquid at room temperature, depending on their structure and composition.

Fats form a category of lipid, distinguished from other lipids by their chemical structure and physical properties. This category of molecules is important for many forms of life, serving both structural and metabolic functions. They are an important part of the diet of most heterotrophs (including humans). Fats or lipids are broken down in the body by enzymes called lipases produced in the pancreas.

Examples of edible animal fats are lard (pig fat), fish oil, and butter. They are obtained from fats in the milk, meat and under the skin of the animal. Examples of edible plant fats are peanut, soya bean, sunflower, sesame, coconut, olive, and vegetable oils. Margarine and vegetable shortening, which can be derived from the above oils, are used mainly for baking. These examples of fats can be categorized into saturated fats and unsaturated fats.

Saturated Fats

Saturated fat is fat that consists of triglycerides containing only saturated fatty acid radicals. There are several kinds of naturally occurring saturated fatty acids, which differ by the number of carbon atoms, ranging from 3 carbons (propionic acid) to 36 (Hexatriacontanoic acid).Saturatedfatty acids have no double bonds between the carbon atoms of the fatty acid chain and are thus fully saturated with hydrogen atoms. Fat that occurs naturally in tissue contains varying proportions of saturated and unsaturated fat. Examples of foods containing a high proportion of saturated fat include dairy products (especially craem and cheese but also butter); animal fats such as suet, tallow, lard and fatty meat; coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, chocolate, and some prepared foods.

Saturated fatty acids appear in different proportions among food groups. Lauric and myristic acid radicals are most commonly found in "tropical" oils (e.g. palm kernel, coconut) and dairy products. The saturated fat in meat, eggs, chocolate, and nuts is primarily the triglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid.

Unsaturated Fats

An unsaturated fat is a fat or fatty acid in which there is at least one double bond within the fatty acid chain. A fat molecule is monounsaturated if it contains one double bond, and polyunsaturated if it contains more than one double bond. Where double bonds are formed, hydrogen atoms are eliminated. In cellular metabolism hydrogen-carbon bonds are broken down or oxidized to produce energy, thus an unsaturated fat molecule contains somewhat less energy (i.e fewer calories) than a comparably-sized saturated fat. The greater the degree of unsaturation in a fatty acid (ie, the more double bonds in the fatty acid), the more vulnerable it is to lipid peroxidation (rancidity). Antioxidants can protect unsaturated fat from lipid peroxidation.

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Fatty Acids

Fatty Acids are defined as any of a class of aliphatic monocarboxylic acids that form part of a lipid molecule and can be derived from fat by hydrolysis; fatty acids are simple molecules built around a series of carbon atoms linked together in a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In soap-making, Fatty Acids refers to the various base oils used including, but not limited to, Apricol Kernal Oil, Avocado Oil, Canola Oil, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Hemp Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Kernal Oil, Palm Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Safflower Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, and the like.

Free Fatty Acids("FFA") arefatty acidsthat are not attached to other molecules. FFA's may result from the breakdown of a material, such as triglyceride, into its components.

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FCC (Food Chemicals Codex)

FCC, an acronym meaning Food Chemicals Codex, is the accepted standard for defining the quality of food-grade additives and chemicals in terms of identity, strength, and purity based on the elements of safety and good manufacturing practices. The FCC project is an activity of the Food and Nutrition Board of theInstitute of Medicine, supported by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Following the passage of the Food Additives amendments to the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act in 1958, the Food Protection Committee of the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council, received requests from its Industry Liaison Board and other sources to undertake a project to produce a Food Chemicals Codex. The First Edition of the resulting Food Chemicals Codex, which was published in 1966, was limited to chemicals that are added directly to foods to achieve a desired technological function. Succeeding editions upgraded the specifications for these substances and added specifications for substances that come into contact with foods and some that are regarded as foods, rather than as additives. To date, five editions of the Food Chemicals Codex (1966, 1972, 1981, 1996, and 2003) have been published.

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Flammable Liquid

The term Flammable is defined differently by various U.S. Government agencies. The U.S. Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) defines a flammable liquid as any liquid having a flash point below 100 deg. F. (37.8 deg. C.), except any mixture having components with Flashpoints of 100 deg. F. (37.8 deg. C.) or higher, the total of which make up 99 percent or more of the total volume of the mixture. Flammable liquids shall be known as Class I liquids.

OSHA divides flammable (and combustible) liquids into several classes. Refer to29CFR1910.106for further information. See also Dangerous Goods for information on the shipment of Hazardous Material.

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Flashpoint

Flashpoint is the lowest temperature at which a flammable liquid gives off sufficient vapor to be ignitable. This does not necessarily mean that the vapor will ignite.

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Fragrance Industry Ingredients

The Fragrance Industry, through its representative organization, the International Fragrance Association ("IFRA") has published aFragrance Industry Ingredients Listused in consumer goods by their customers worldwide for the purposes of transparency.

IFRAs Safety Program establishes safe use for fragrance materials. The IFRACode of Practiceand the IFRA Standards are based on risk assessments and may prohibit or restrict the use of fragrance materials in consumer goods if there is concern for human health or the environment. The Code of Practice and the Standards must be adhered to by all IFRA affiliated member companies. Adherence is enforced through the IFRA Compliance Program.

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FO (Fragrance Oil)

An FO, or fragrance oil, are blended synthetic aroma compounds or naturalessential oilsthat are diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol,vegetable oil, or mineral oil. Also known as aroma oils, aromatic oils, and flavor oils, FO's are used in perfumery,cosmetics, flavoring of food, and in aromatherapy.

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Fragrance Notes

It is impossible to describe a fragrance according to its components because the exact formulas are kept secret. Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification. On the other hand, it is possible to group fragrances into scent families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate.

Top Notes:scents that are perceived immediately on application of a fragrance oil or perfume ("Fragrance"). Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of the Fragrance. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a Fragrance. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, veryvolatile, and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.

Heart Notes or Middle Notes:The scent of a Fragrance that emerges after the top notes dissipate. The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a Fragrance and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a Fragrance. Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes. Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together asHeadnotes.

Base Notes:The scent of a Fragrance that appears after the departure of the top notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a Fragrance. Base notes bring depth and solidness to a Fragrance. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the Fragrance or during the period of Fragrance dry-down. Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes.

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GRAS

GRAS is an acronym meaning Generally Regarded As Safe.

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HLB System

HLB is an acronym meaning Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance, a system for measuring the degree to which a non-ionic surfactant is either hydrophilic or lipophilic, determined by calculating values from different regions of the molecule, as described by the system's inventor, William C. Griffin.

The HLB system facilitates optimum performance of emulsion applications including combining dissimilar oils; formulating water-in-oil emulsions; wetting powders into oils; formulating oil-in-water emulsions; and formulating detergent solutions.

The HLB System works in accordance with the formula:

HLB = 20 * Mh / Mwhere

Mhis the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the Molecule, and

Mis the molecular mass of the whole molecule,

...giving the result on an arbitrary scale of 0 to 20. Thus, an HLB value of 0 corresponds to a completely hydrophobic molecule, and a value of 20 corresponds to a molecule made up completely of hydrophilic components.

The HLB value can be used to predict the surfactant properties of a molecule:

HLB Value

Surfactant Properties

0 - 3

anti-foaming agents

4 - 6

W/O emulsifiers

7 - 9

wetting agents

8 - 12

O/W emulsifiers

13 - 15

detergents

16 - 18

solubilisers or hydrotropes

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Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS)

HMIS(Hazardous Materials Identification System) is a numerical hazard rating that incorporates the use of labels with color-coded bars as well as training materials. It was developed by the National Paint & Coatings Association (NPCA) as a compliance aid for theOSHAHazard Communication Standard.

For additional information and use guidance, clickhere.

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Hydrosol

Hydrosol, also sometimes referred to as floral water, hydrolate, herbal water, essential water, and herbal distillates, are aqueous solutions or colloidal suspensions ofessential oilsusually obtained bysteam distillationfrom aromatic plants. These herbal distillates have uses as flavorings, medicine and in skin care.

Hydrosols are produced in the same manner asessential oils. However, the essential oil will float to the top of the distillate where it is removed, leaving behind the watery distillate. For this reason perhaps the termessential wateris more descript. In the past, these essential waters were considered a byproduct of distillation, but now are considered an important co-product.

Hydrosols contain many of the beneficial elements from essential oils but in a less concentrated, safer form. Besides aromatic chemicals, these distillates also contain many of the plant acids making them skin friendly. With apHof 5-to-6 they are great to use as facial toners.Cosmeticsand toiletries makers are finding many uses for hydrosols. They can be used alone as toners or room sprays. Distillates are also used as flavorings and curables.

Popular hydrosols include rose water, lavender water, lemon balm, clary sage and orange blossom water. The use of hydrosols incosmeticsis increasing.

Because hydrosols are produced at high temperatures and are somewhat acidic, they tend to inhibit bacterial growth. They are not however sterile. They are a fresh product, like milk, and should be kept refrigerated.

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Hydroxyl Value

Hydroxyl Value is a measure of hydroxyl (univalent OH) groups in an organic material.

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International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN)

The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN) is the set of rules and recommendations dealing with the formalbotanical namesthat are given to plants. Its intent is that each taxonomic group ("taxon", plural "taxa") of plants has only one correct name, accepted worldwide. The value of a scientific name is that it is a label: it is not necessarily of descriptive value, or even accurate.

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International Fragrance Association (IFRA)

IFRA, the International Fragrance Association, was established in 1973 and is the official representative body of the fragrance industry worldwide. It's main purpose is to ensure the safety of fragrance materials. This is accomplished through implementation of alist of approved fragrance ingredientsemployed under a strictCode of Practice.

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INCI

INCI is an acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient and is a system for namingcosmeticingredients. It is a multilingual, multinational system based on Latin. Ingredient listing on cosmetic product, using the INCI system, is required by law in several countries around the world.

The INCI system was designed in 1973, and developed over a period of more than 25 years. It was created by theCTFA's International Nomenclature Committee and the INCI system forms the basis of the ICI Dictionary and Handbook. The ICI Dictionary and Handbook presents, in detail, the bulk of INCI names juxtaposed with their corresponding empirical chemical formulas, technical/trade names,Chemical Abstracts Systemnumbers (CAS No.), or alternate numbers and this allows for the unambiguous identification of ingredients.

The current INCI nomenclature system is distributed in multiple volumes and encompass all ingredients and classes of ingredients that are used incosmeticproducts. The primary objective of the INCI system is to standardize the technical names of ingredients found in cosmetics and to keep the need for alternative labeling names to a minimum. The current INCI dictionary contains approximately 12,000 INCI names and the corresponding 55,000 trade and technical names. The INCI system contains all that is required for naming and labeling ingredients used by the cosmetics industry and has become necessary and sufficient in the cosmetics field.

For the purpose of identifying chemical compounds, which are used as ingredients in cosmetics, INCI ingredient names are predominantly based upon the terminology created by theInternational Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry(IUPAC). INCI names are a contraction of IUPAC names, which are based on Latin and are recognized as multilingual. IUPAC was developed by an international, scientific and non-governmental body that was formed in 1919, by chemists from both industry and academia. This organization has united the international chemical sciences community (academic, industrial and public sector) by creating a common language for chemistry. IUPAC is recognized as the world authority on chemical nomenclature and terminology.

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Iodine Value

Iodine Value is a measure of the unsaturation of fats and oils and is expressed in terms of the number of centrigrams of iodine absorbed per gram of sample (% iodine absorbed).

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JCID

JCID is an acronym for the Japanese Cosmetics Ingredients Directory, a publication of the Japanese Cosmetics Ingredients Association.

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KOH Value

KOH Value is a value that, when multiplied by the amount of the item used (expressed in the unit of measure shown), will result in the amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) required to be combined with the item to saponify them (see alsoSAP ValueandNaOH Value).

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Lipids

Lipids are a broad group of naturally-occurring molecules which includes fats, waxes, sterols, fat-soluble vitamins (such as vitamins A, D, E and K), monoglycerides, diglycerides, phospholipids, and others. The main biological functions of lipids include energy storage, as structural components of cell membranes, and as important signaling molecules.

Although the termlipidis sometimes used as a synonym for fats, fats are a subgroup of lipids called triglycerides. Lipids also encompass molecules such asfatty acidsand their derivatives (including monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides and phospholipids), as well as other sterol-containing metabolites such as cholesterol. Although humans and other mammals use various biosynthetic pathways to both break down and synthesize lipids, some essential lipids cannot be made this way and must be obtained from the diet.

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Lovibond Color

Lovibond Color refers to the calibrated output measurement of color using the Lovibond comparator, a colorimeter (a color-measuring device) invented by Joseph Williams Lovibond in the 19th century, and currently manufactured by The Tinometer Ltd.

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Melting Point

Melting Point is the temperature at which a solid becomes a liquid at standard atmospheric pressure.

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Miscibility

Miscibility is the ability or tendency of one liquid to mix or blend uniformly with another and form a single homogeneous phase. Alcohol is miscible in water; gasoline and water are immiscible. When two substances are immiscible they will form separate phases when mixed; the best known example is oil and water.

See alsoSolubility, often used in the same sense in reference to liquids.

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NaOH Value

NaOH Value is the value that, when multiplied by the amount of the item used (expressed in the unit of measure shown), will result in the amount of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) required to be combined with the item to saponify them (see alsoSAP ValueandKOH Value).

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Neat

Neat means to apply undiluted, directly on skin.

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Non-Volatile Content

Non-Volatile Content is the portion of a material that remains after volatile matter has been evaporated under specified ambient or accelerated conditions .

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Oil

An oil is any substance that is liquid at ambient temperature, is hydrophobic but soluble in organic solvents, and can be traced back to it's organic sources. Oils also have a high carbon and hydrogen content and are nonpolar substances. Examples areessential oils, petrochemical oils, andvegetable oils.

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OSI (Oil Stability Index)

The Oil Stability Index is a quality assurance test method for determining the induction period of an oil.

All oils and fats have a resistance to oxidation which depends on the degree of saturation, natural or added antioxidants, prooxidants, or prior abuse. Oxidation is slow until this resistance is overcome at which time oxidation accelerates and becomes very rapid thereafter. This length of time before this rapid acceleration of oxidation is the measure of the resistance to oxidation and is commonly referred to as the "induction period."

In this test a stream of purified air is passed through a test sample of oil or fat which is held in a thermostated bath. The effluent air from the oil or fat test sample is then bubbled through a vessel containing deionized water. The conductivity of the water is continually monitored. The effluent air contains volatile organic acids, swept from the oxidizing oil, that increase the conductivity of the water as oxidation proceeds. Formic acid is the predominant organic acid formed. The conductivity of the water is monitored by a computer or strip chart recorder.

OSI is defined as the point of maximum change of the rate of oxidation. This time-based end point may be determined by a computer that can calculate the maximum of the second derivative with respect to time, or by a slope-change algorithm, which is similar to detecting the onset of peaks for integration of GLC chromatograms. The end point may be approximated by using other methods. One commonly used approximation is a graphic method in which tangents are drawn manually (see Fig. 2). The OSI may be run at temperatures of 100, 110, 120, 130, and 140C. Because by its nature this analysis has this temperature flexibility, all OSI results specify the OSI time, with the analysis temperature reported immediately after (for example, OSI, 11.7 hours at 110C).

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Performance

An oil's characteristics straight out of the bottle are rarely identical in a manufactured end-product. Thus, a fragrance must be advance-tested to learn how it will change during and after being subjected to the manufacturing processes of the various end-products in which it will be used. Part of our service is to perform some of these tests and provide reasonable, if limited, performance guidance to our customers.

To that end, we test all of ourfragrance oils(exceptValue-Line Fragrances), primarily in cold-process ("CP") soap. We are also testing an increased number of our fragrances in soy wax candles and, sometimes, in a cream or lotion base as well. We chose CP soap as our primary test product because the chemical and environmental impact of thesaponificationprocess is the toughest on fragrances.

CP soap testing is performed using severalstandardized recipes, including an all-veggie recipe (palm, coconut, shea, olive, etc) and a tallow recipe (palm kernel, shea, rice bran, etc). Finished CP soap test products are allowed to cure for a minimum of 6 weeks, some for much longer.Fragrance oilsare then evaluated.

We rate each fragrance for it's key CP soap characteristics including...

scent strength acceleration discoloration fading; and

morphing.

We follow a standardized 5-point scale for grading scent strength in CP soap and soy candle testing. Specific terms are used to identify the finished product scent performance characteristics as follows:

ScentStrengthScale

CP Soap

Soy Candle

5

Powerful

Outstanding or Excellent

4

Very Strong

Very Good

3

Strong

Good

2

N/A[1]N/A[1]1

N/A[1]N/A[1]Additional Terms

Fading

a weakening in intensity of a fragrance compared to it's original strength out of bottle (OOB).

Morphing

Short for metamorphosis, the term describes the change of fragrance character upon application.

[1] We do not sellfragrance oilswith performance level below a 3 rating.[2] Only basic elements (lye, oils, water) are used in these recipes (no special additives, colorants or the like).User Note: our commentaries are intended to provide only limited guidance for use and results may vary according to individual recipe.

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Peroxide Value

Peroxide Value is a measure of the extent of fat or oil oxidation of a substance by measuring the amount of peroxides present. Peroxides are intermediate compounds formed during the oxidation of lipids which may react further to form the compounds that can cause rancidity.

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pH

pH, an acronym meaning potential of hydrogen, is the logarithm of the reciprocal of the measure of hydrogen-ion concentration in gram-atoms per liter of a solution. The pH Scale provides a measure, on a scale from 0 to 14, of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution; where 7 is neutral (e.g., water), below 7 is increasing acidic, and above 7 is increasingly alkaline (basic).

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Pour Point

Pour Point is the lowest temperature at which an oil or other liquid will pour under prescribed conditions when it is chilled without disturbance at a fixed rate.

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Refractive Index

Refractive Index is a measure of how much the speed of light (or other waves, such as sound waves) is reduced by passing through a medium. Used as one of the primary objective test procedures to determine the quality of essential (and other oils). Deviations from established (published) data are indicative of adulteration.

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Research Institute for Fragrance Materials("RIFM")

RIFM was formed as a nonprofit corporation in 1966 to gather and analyze scientific data, engage in testing and evaluation, distribute information, cooperate with official agencies and to encourage uniform safety standards related to the use of fragrance ingredients.

The RIFM Database of flavor and fragrance materials is the largest available worldwide, classifying more than 5000 materials. The database is available online, 24/7, by subscription. RIFM's Database also houses an online collection of Flavor/Fragrance Ingredient Data Sheets (FFIDS) from 1985-present. FFIDSs are issued to assist with compliance for U.S. OSHA's Hazard Communication Standards and the European Commission's Dangerous Substances Directives.

All of RIFM's research is reviewed by an independent Expert Panel, an international group of dermatologists, pathologists, toxicologists environmental and respiratory scientists that have no commercial ties to the fragrance industry. The Expert Panel advises RIFM on its strategic approach, reviews protocols and evaluates all scientific findings. Their conclusions form the basis for the Standards set by theInternational Fragrance Association(IFRA).

RIFM's staff scientists reach out to the international fragrance industry about progress in environmental testing, respiratory research and skin sensitivity testing through electronic bulletins, publication of the latest results in peer-reviewed scientific publications and by in-person presentations at professional societies, individual companies, government agencies, and industry committee and association meetings.

RIFM is relied upon as the most comprehensive resource for safe use and exposure information on fragrance materials. RIFM is the cost effective solution for safety research and testing.

RIFM delivers well-documented conclusions from comprehensive analysis that translates into enhanced Product Management for its members, resulting in safer and more life enriching products for the consumer. Membership in RIFM is open to all companies that manufacture, sell, distribute or engage in business related to the fragrance industry for at least one year.

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Saponification

Saponification is the alkaline (or base-) hydrolysis of fats which produces an alcohol (glycerol), and the sodium or potassium salt of a carboxylic acid, more commonly referred to as soap.

The bases most commonly used are sodium hydroxide (NaOH), used to form a hard soap; or potassium hydroxide (KOH), used to form a soft soap. The acids most commonly used arevegetable oilsand/or animal fats, which are fatty esters in the form of triglycerides. Through the process of heating and agitation, the alkali breaks the ester bond and releases thefatty acidand glycerol.

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SAP value

SAPonification Value is the amount of alkali necessary tosaponifya definite quantity of a substance. It is commonly expressed as the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide (KOH), or Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH), required to saponify 1 gram of the substance.

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Scent Strength

Scent Strength refers to therelativepower of a scent compared to other fragrances within a given class of aromatic oils. It is generally inappropriate to compare fragrances of different classes. Thus, you wouldn't compare a light, ethereal scent to a sharp, fruity one; etc., etc.

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Shelf Life

Shelf Life is the recommended length of time, from the date of manufacture or shipment, that a product can be relied upon to retain it's quality characteristics, under the specified storage conditions, after which time the product can become unsuitable for use or consumption.

A product's shelf life or safe storage time of a product, is affected by a number of variables, including intrinsic parameters (such aspHand moisture content) and extrinsic parameters (such as environmental factors).

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Solubility

Solubility is the ability of a material to dissolve in water or another liquid. Solubility may be expressed as a ratio or described using words such as insoluble, very soluble or miscible (seeMiscibility).

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Specific Gravity

Specific Gravity (or relative density) is the ratio of thedensity(mass per unit volume) of a substance to thedensityof a given reference material (specific gravity usually means relativedensitywith respect to water). If a substance's specific gravity is < 1.00 then it is less dense than the reference; if > 1.00 then it is denser than the reference; and if exactly equal to 1.00 then the densities are the same. With water as the reference, specific gravities of < 1.00 will float in water and those > 1.00 will sink.

Temperature and pressure must be specified for both the sample and the reference. For the purposes of all specifications on this website, the pressure is always assumed to be 1 atmosphere (14.696 psi).

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Stability

Stability is the ability of a material to remain unchanged in the presence of heat, moisture or air. An unstable material may decompose, polymerize, burn or explode under normal environmental conditions. Any indication that the material is unstable gives warning that special handling and storage precautions may be necessary.

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Trace

Trace, is the first and most critical milestone in theSaponificationprocess.

The start of Trace, called Light Trace, is the first visual evidence of the chemical reaction. It is evident by the slight thickening of the acid-water-base mixture (which will look smooth and glossy) to a consistency sometimes described as a thin custard. The mixture will be still quite liquidy at this point. Some soap-makers prefer to pour their soap mixture into molds at Light Trace. The stage of Full Trace, sometimes called Heavy Trace, is reached when the soap mixture has thickened considerably.

To test for Trace, dip a spatula or spoon into the soap mixture and dribble a bit of it back into the mixing pot. If it leaves a visual trace of the dribblings behind, then Trace has been reached and, hence, it's name. Light Trace occurs when the trail, though evident, disappears quickly back into the mixture and, Heavy Trace, when the trail lingers longer.

With the use of different fats and mixtures requiring varying heating and mixing cycles, etc., it is impractical to subscribe to a more accurate definition than the visual/physical attributes described herein.

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Trace Elements

In analytical chemistry, a trace element is an element in a sample that has an average concentration of less than 100 parts per million (i.e., 0.01%) measured in atomic count, or less than 100 micrograms per gram.

Of significant concern are those trace elements which can cause ill effects to organisms and the environment including, especially, heavy metals. Living organisms require varying amounts of heavy metals. Iron (Fe), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn) are required by humans. Excessive levels can be damaging to the body. Other heavy metals such as mercury (Hg), plutonium (Pu), and lead (Pb) are toxic metals and their accumulation in the bodies of animals over time can cause serious illness. Certain elements that are normally toxic can be beneficial for certain organisms and under certain conditions. Examples include vanadium (V), tungsten (W), and even cadmium (Cd).

Heavy metals occur naturally in the ecosystem with large variations in concentration. In modern times, anthropogenic sources of heavy metals, i.e. pollution, have been introduced to the ecosystem. The determination of trace elements in edible oils is important because of both the metabolic role of metals and possibilities for adulteration detection and oil characterization.

Heavy metals pollution has become of considerable concern since some of them are dangerous to health and/or the environment (e.g., Hg, Cd, As, Pb, Cr), some may cause corrosion (e.g., Zn, Pb), and some are harmful in other ways (e.g., arsenic may pollute catalysts). Some of these elements are necessary for humans, though in minute amounts (Co, Cu, Cr, Ni), while others are carcinogenic or toxic, affecting, among others, the central nervous system (Hg, Pb, As); the kidneys or liver (Hg, Pb, Cd, Cu); or skin, bones and/or teeth (Ni, Cd, Cu, Cr).

In testing for these "heavy metals," solvent-diluted oils are analyzed for the elements by direct aspiration. The most commonly used techniques for the determination of metals in oil samples are inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and atomic absorption spectrometry (AAS).

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Unsaponifiable Matter

Unsaponifiable matter are those substances frequently found dissolved infatty acidsand drying oils which cannot be saponified by caustic treatment, but which are soluble in normal fat solvents. Included are the higher aliphatic alcohols, sterols, pigments, and hydrocarbons.

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Vegetable Oils

Vegetable fats and oils are lipid materials derived from plants. Physically, oils are liquid at room temperature and fats are solid. Chemically, both fats and oils are composed of triglycerides, as contrasted with waxes which lack glycerin in their structure. Many different parts of plants may yield oil.

The melting temperature distinction between oils and fats is imprecise, since definitions of room temperature vary, and typically natural oils have amelting rangeinstead of a single melting point since natural oils are not chemically homogenous. Although thought of as esters of glycerin and a varying blend offatty acids, fats and oils also typically containfree fatty acids, mono- and di-glycerides, and unsaponifiable lipids.

Vegetable fats and oils may be edible or inedible. Examples of inedible vegetable fats and oils include processed linseed oil, tung oil, and castor oil used in lubricants, paints,cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and other industrial purposes.

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Viscosity

Viscosity is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. Low viscosity fluids flow easily (alcohol, water); high viscosity fluids pour slowly (molasses). SeeAbsolute ViscosityandKinematic Viscositybelow.

Absolute Viscosity.Absolute Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the force required for a standard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. Absolute Viscosity is commonly expressed in centipoise (cP).

Kinematic Viscosity.Kinematic Viscosity is a measure of the Absolute Viscosity of a fluid divided by the fluid's density. Kinematic Viscosity is commonly expressed in centistokes (cSt). Like Absolute Viscosity, the value of Kinematic Viscosity is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which is is determined.

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Volatility

Volatility is a measure of how quickly a substance forms a vapor (i.e., evaporates) at ordinary temperatures.

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