Requirements:• List of parts v1.4• Laser­cutter parts v1.5

Plainplain – assembly guideDeveloper: Dominic Spiess / FormfabrikBackers: Roman Jurt / This Loepfe / FabLab Zuerich // Ramun Berger / FabLab Bern creative commons license

painplain von Dominic Spiess ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung 4.0International Lizenz.Beruht auf dem Werk unter http://www.formfabrik.ch/leistungen/opensourceprojects.php.

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Mounting the frameBasics: Connecting two pieces of wood (see Ultimaker wiki)

Required parts: • Base plate (A1) • 4 side pieces (A2, A3, A4, A5) • 17 M3x16 screws and nuts

Lay the base plate (A1) in front of you, laser markings facing upwards. Stick the front (A5) and rear(A4) parts onto the base plate. Make sure the lasered markings are facing inwards:

Stick the side pieces (A2 and A3) onto the base plate. Don't forget to screw in the 4screws in thecorners, fixing the frame:

Mounting the wooden Ultimaker connectors

Required parts:

• 4 threaded sleeves • 4 connection pieces (A6) • 4 M3x16 screws and nuts

Screw the sleeves into the connection pieces (A6) from the laser marked side. Make sure, theinserts and the wood are aligned on the back side:

Stick the 4 pieces into the holes in each corner of the base plate, the threaded sleeves at the top. Fix

the pieces with a screw from the outside:

When done, your base frame should look like this:

Mounting the drilling jigRequired parts:

• Drilling jig parts (C1, C2, C3) • 2 M3x25 screws and nuts

Put the 3 wooden pieces behind one another and tighten the two screws and nuts:

In the end it should look like this:

Installing the electronics

Note: If you're not familiar with electronics, seek advice from a practitioner (e.g. an electrician).

Prepare the cables as shown. Get the 2 short wires by cutting and peeling the triple core cable.

Required parts: • 1 power supply • 1 switch • 1 appliance connection cable • 1 appliance connector • 1 Triple core cable (35cm) • 2 Twin wires (33cm) • 1 Plug and socket • 1 Short wire, blue (12cm) • 1 Short wire, brown (12cm) • 6 heat shrink Tubings

Prepare all wire endings with tin. Assemble the twin wires with the plug and the socket as shown.Put the male metallic contacts into the plug and the female metallic contacts into the socket:

Connect the grey cable to the power supply. Make sure you are using one minus and one plus pole.Follow the minus pole wire and mark the end with a marker:

Put three heat shrink tubings over the cable with the earthed wire. Sold it to the applianceconnector. Blue to neutral; brown to phase; green/yellow to earth). Pull the wire through the cut­out„Main appliance line plug“ of the housing. Solder two short wires to the switch (blue, Position 2:blue, Position 3: brown). Solder the blue wire of the cable with the earthed wire to Position 1. Protectthe soldering by using the other three heat shrink tubings. The picture below shows the correct

cabeling.

Mounting fan, power supply and connectorRequired parts: • Assembled electronics • Fan • 6 M3 x 16 screws and nuts • 2 M4 x 10 screw

Screw the power connector into its cut­out in the side panel with two M3 screws. Mount the powersupply to the side panel using the two M4 screws (In some cases, the threads of the power supplyare in a different position, in which case you need to carefully drill them yourself or use part A7 forthe opposite side):

Position the fan above the hole in the base plate. Press the nuts into the holes in the fan frame.Mount the fan with the 4 screws. The airflow should go downwards:

Assembling the heated bedRequired parts: • 1 Heated bed • 1 thermocouple • 1 Plug and socket • 2 thick twin cable, grey (33cm) • 2 thin twin cable, red (33cm) • 1 Straight header • 1 Housing with contacts

Assemble the grey cable with the plug and socket just like before. Solder one end to the pins ofheated bed on the side where the LEDs are. Use position 2 and 3 for 24V power. Mark the minuspole on the other end. Take a thin (red) twin wire and solder one end to the end of the long legs ofthe thermocouple (Useing the latest heated bed with the thermocouple on the board, solder the thinwire straight to the connectors on the board). Take the second red cable and solder one end of tothe metal contacts and push them into the housing:

Assembling the heated bed platform

Required parts: • 1 Heated bed with cable • 1 Glass pane • 1 Wooden frame • 1 Thermocouple with cable • 8 M3x10 Countersunk head screw with nuts • 8 Finishing washers and tab washers • 1 Piece of thermoresitant tape

From the side without laser marks, put the screws with the finishing washers into the holes along theinner edge. Flip it over and fit the glass and then the heated bed board into the frame. Make surethat the LEDs are facing upwards and correspond to the laser markings:

Tighten the nuts with the tab washers onto the screws (you may need to bend the tabs a bit to get atighter fit). Bend the legs of the thermocouple to a V­shape. Stick the thermocouple into the thecenter hole of the heated bed board and fix it with a piece of thermoresitant tape by putting the tapebetween the legs. Make sure that the isolation of the cables doesn't touch the board:

Preparing the Ultimaker's PCBRequired parts: • 1 4.7kΩ resistor • 1 Thin twin cable, red • 1 Straight header

Dismount the PCB board and remove the arduino card. Solder the grey power cable coming fromthe power supply to the PCB main power jack. Make sure the current direction is right:

Solder the 4.7kΩ resistor to R4. Solder the red cable coming from the thermocouple to Temp 3. Useonly the left and right pin. The middle pin is not being used. If you prefer, use a connector. Currentdirection is equal. Stick the ends of the grey cable coming from the heating bed into the greensocket labelled HOT BED (mind the current direction, you've probably marked the minus end. Theheating bed will operate both ways, but the LEDs only the correct way):

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Prepare the last red twin cable from the sketch above. Solder one end to the PCB pin positionlabelled FAN2 and the other to the straight header. Connect the straight header with the socket.(Check the current direction. The airflow should go downwards):

Mounting the plainplain to your UltimakerRequired parts: • 4 M3x16 screws • assembled plainplain base • assembled heated bed platform • assembled drilling jig

Ultimaker Heated Bed "plainplain"

Haftungsausschluss © Formfabrik AG, Stand 06.08.2015

Use the drilling jig. Fit it against each of the corner on the left and right side of the Ultimaker and drillthe holes into the ultimaker plywood base plate:

Pull the cables for the heated bed and the termocuple through the base plate of the Ultimaker. Insertthe additional fan and the power supply. It's recommended to cover the power plug on the PCBboard with a piece of duct tape to make sure not to accidentally use the original Ultimaker power

supply, as it is not needed anymore:

Place the Ultimaker on the plainplain base and screw the 4 screws into the holes you drilled.Replace the acrylic glass sheet with the heated bed platform and plug the two jacks.

Firmware update

If the Ulticontroller doesn't show an "H" and a second target and actual temperature a firmewareupdate is recommanded. Open "Marlin" and adjust the thermal settings in the configuration.h file oruse: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com. It's a 100k thermistor / 4.7kohm pullup (in general 6. for thetiny thermocouple soldered on the heated bed 1). Make other settings if needed.Happy plainprinting!