travelling in fantastic scenery / nature … · travelling in fantastic scenery / nature grandiose...

Fjords de l’OuestTRAVELLING IN FANTASTIC SCENERY / NATURE GRANDIOSE ET FASCINANTE

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West FjordsI C E L A N DI S L A N D E

ICELAND REVIEW 19ICELAND REVIEW 19

A desert is a desert: looking over the western entrance to F225 at the black volcanic desert that runs past the formationAldan, or ‘The Wave’, not far from Mt. Hekla.

Coastal stones at Reykjanes, where hot springs bubble near the beach.

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Travelling in fantastic scenery

La nature des Fjords de l’Ouest, par sa majesté et sa beauté, n’a pas d’équivalent en Islande - Les communications se sont con-sidérablement améliorées ces dernières années, ouvrant ainsi à tous les portes de ce pays des merveilles. Bienvenue dans l’ouest, venez découvrir sa nature sauvage, ses montagnes abruptes, ses fjords profonds, ses villages florissants et son animation parfois différente des autres régions. La gamme des loisirs et des activités de plein air ne pourra être limitée que par votre seule imagination. Au programme, des excursions dans la région vous feront connaître son histoire, découvrir sa faune, rencontrer ses habitants et leur culture. Vous pourrez aussi prendre part à des aventures inoubliables en traversant le Djúp ou en parcourant, au nord de Strandir, les rivages désertés de Hornstrandir: on y habitait encore au milieu du siècle dernier au sein d’une nature certes époustouflante, mais dans des conditions très rudes. Les randonnées pédestres à Hornstrandir sont des plus appréciées, et qui s’y laisse entraîner une fois y retournera souvent par la suite.

Icelanders as well as foreigners often say they have never seen more spectacular, glorious nature than in Iceland, especially its West Fjords. Still, many people have yet to experience what the West Fjords and its residents can offer. In recent years, vastly improved transporta-tion has greatly facilitated access. Therefore, now is the time to fulfil your dream of coming to our part of Iceland, with its wild nature, steep mountains, deep fjords, prospering communities, and even a different society than elsewhere on the island. Not only are there numerous possibilities for outdoor activities and other entertainment, but they can often be shaped by your requests. The offerings include trips through communities for insight into their history, animal life, residents and culture, and adventurous tours through the huge bay of Ísafjar›ardjúp or to the northerly reaches of Strandir on the region’s far northeast coast. These northerly areas, called Hornstrandir, have been deserted since the middle of the last century. Today, hardly any tourist option is more popular than hiking in Hornstrandir, and most people who try it return again and again.

Nature grandiose et fascinante

WEST FJORDS / FJORDS DE L’OUEST

Publisher/Edition: Heimur hf., Borgartún 23, 105 Reykjavík.

For/Pour le compte de:

The Icelandic Tourism Association/Bureau Régional de Tourisme.

Tel.: (+ 354) 512-7575. Fax: (+354) 561-8646.

Editor/Rédaction: María Gu›mundsdóttir.

Design/Maquette: Erlingur Páll Ingvarsson, Helga Gu›n‡ Ásgeirsdóttir.

Map/Cartes: Sigurgeir Skúlason, @Landmælingar Íslands - L04010008.

Printing house/Impression: Ísafoldarprentsmi›ja, Maí/May 2005.

Circulation/Distribution: 20.000 /20,000 ex.

Photographs/Crédit photos: Páll Stefánsson.

Cover Photo and Fauna/La Faune: Daníel Bergmann.

Text by/Textes: Fri›rik Olgeirsson.

Main foreign texts/Traduction des textes:

Lingua / Nor›an Jökuls ehf. / www.islingua.is

Heimur hf.

Borgartún 23

105 Reykjavík

www.heimur.is/world

Informations sur l’Islandeicetourist.isInformations sur l’Ouest de l’Islandevestfirdir.is westfjords.isVenir en Islandeicelandair.comicelandexpress.comsmyril-line.com Venir dans les fjords de l’Ouestairiceland.isbsi.is saeferdir.isLocations de voituresavis.iseurorent.ishertz.isnationalcar.isSe déplacer dans les Fjords de l’Ouestvesturferdir.is [email protected]

Useful Links / Liens utiles

InfoInformation on Icelandicetourist.isInformation on West Fjordsvestfirdir.is westfjords.isGetting to Icelandicelandair.comicelandexpress.comsmyril-line.comGetting to West Fjordsairiceland.isbsi.is saeferdir.isCar rentalsavis.iseurorent.ishertz.isnationalcar.isTrips in the West Fjordsvesturferdir.is [email protected]

Fer›amálasamtök Íslands

iTourist Information Centres/Syndicats d’Initiative

Reykhólar. Tel. 434-7830.Tálknafjör›ur. Tel. 456-2639.Þingeyri. Tel. 456-8304.Ísafjör›ur. Tel. 456-5121.Hólmavík. Tel. 451-3111.www.holmavik.is/info

Iceland's Regional Tourism Associations / Bureau Régional de Tourisme.

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In the past, West Fjord society was influenced by isolation. Fishing and services provided a livelihood for the villages, while the farms mostly raised sheep. Despite modern transportation reducing isolation, West Fjord culture keeps a special flavour, felt through its colourful individuals. The fruits of local waters and land still see use, such as eider down and driftwood, or bird eggs, puffins, shark and dried fish. People are always energetic and eager to celebrate. Su›ureyri has its Family Weekend, Ísafjör›ur a Ski Week, Patreksfjör›ur the Seamen’s Day, Drangsnes a Harbour Festival, and Sævangur in Strandir the so-called Strange Games, with names that get even funnier if you let someone explain them. Lastly, mention must be made of the annual strong man’s competition, the West Fjords Viking, occurring at many villages.

La populationWest Fjord society


L’isolement a longtemps fortement marqué cet habitat, et dans ces villages nichés sur la bande littorale, la pêche et les services sont les activités essentielles. L’évolution des communications a rompu en partie l’isolement des Fjords de l’Ouest, mais des particularismes culturels y sont visibles, ainsi que des personnages hauts en couleur qui semblent appartenir à des temps révolus. Les à-côtés des terres sont encore exploités: récolte du duvet d’eider, bois de flottage, ramassage des œufs dans les falaises, chasse aux macareux. La vie de ces communautés est dense, été comme hiver. A Su›ureyri s’engage le « Sæluhelgi » à Ísafjör›ur se tient la Semaine de la Glisse avec un programme varié d’attractions, le Jour du Marin à Patreksfjör›ur ne s’oublie pas de si tôt, à Drangsnes se tient le Festival du Port et à Sævangur (Strandir) sont pratiqués les Jeux Incroyables où les compétitions les plus originales sont pro-grammées. Gardons-nous d’oublier le concours du « Vestfjar›avíkingur », concours du viking le plus fort, qui tourne chaque année d’un Fjord de l’Ouest à un autre.

Ísafjörður


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Through their raw, magnificent nature, the West Fjords make up a world of their own. Soaring mountainsides and deep valleys line the coast, with promontories facing the ocean waves. Wherever you look there are gems of nature. The landscape of Hornstrandir is unique, and contains many of Iceland’s loveliest spots. Hornstrandir, Vatnsfjör›ur, Hrísey near Reykhólar, and part of Flatey are protected for the sake of birds, plants and sheer attractiveness. Rau›isandur is a peaceful beach, while Dynjandi is a picturesque waterfall of 100 m. Látrabjarg, Hornbjarg and Hælavíkurbjarg are not only Iceland’s most spectacular sea cliffs, but also shelter the most birds. Vigur island also shelters abundant bird life. Masses of driftwood collect in many parts of Strandir, such as Trékyllisvík, south of the unusual natural phenomenon of Drangaskör›. For another impressive sight, climb the Va›alfjöll volcanic plugs, near Bjarkalundur.


Paysages enchanteursAvec une nature à la fois rude, douce et splendide, les Fjords de l’Ouest sont un monde à part. À Hornstrandir, la nature exception-nelle et grandiose offre des paysages parmi les plus impressionnants d’Islande. Vatnsfjör›ur, Hrísey, l’est de l’île de Flatey, Hornstrandir sont des réserves naturelles. La sérénité règne à Rau›isandur, la cascade Dynjandi à Arnarfjör›ur s’étale superbe sur un versant de 100 m de haut. Látrabjarg, Hornbjarg et Hælavíkurbjarg comptent parmi les plus impressionnantes falaises du pays et les plus riches en oiseaux. À Vigur se trouvent d’importantes colonies d’oiseaux. À Trékyllisvík et dans bien d’autres endroits de Strandir, les rivages sont encombrés de bois de flottage.

Natural treasures

Aðalvík, Hornstarandir


Walking and hiking

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The West Fjords are ideal for the walker, and maps of the main trails will help you select a path to fit your abilities. You might choose a route for observing a mix of nature and historical remains, or select from the Ísafjör›ur Heritage Trail, a walk to see birds on Vigur, a ramble along nearly any shore, or hikes around Vatnsfjör›ur. Hornstrandir offers distances of up to several days. A tour is avail-able along Ísafjar›ardjúp, with a stop at Drangajökull glacier, or you can walk from Bæir to Kaldalón. Hikes between Arnarfjör›ur and Tálknafjör›ur are also popular. At Trékyllisvík, a track leads through witch country and by the peculiar rock Grásteinn.


Les Fjords de l’Ouest offrent des possibilités illimitées de randon-nées pédestres et d’activités de plein air. Des cartes couvrant les principaux sentiers de randonnées ont été publiées afin de faciliter au randonneur le choix de tracés à son niveau. Pour certains, ce sera une randonnée dans la ville de Ísafjör›ur, sur l’île de Vigur avec l’observation des colonies d’oiseaux, sur les sentiers près du bord de mer ou dans le Vatnsfjör›ur. Pour ceux qui recherchent l’éloignement des longues randonnées, le choix se portera sur un voyage dans le Ísafjar›ardjúp avec un passage sur le glacier Drangajökull, ou bien au départ de Bæjir jusqu’à Kaldalón. De courtes randonnées sont popu-laires entre Arnarfjör›ur et Tálknafjör›ur. À Strandir, une randonnée suit la trace des sorciers à Trékyllisvík.

Randonnées pédestres

Unaðsdalur, Ísafjarðardjúp

Árneshreppur

Reykhólasveit

Flatey

Arnarfjörður

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It was in the West Fjords that a Viking explorer gave Iceland its name. Today, relics of the past are found throughout the region. Brjánslækur has ruins from the time of settlement, Hrafnseyri was birthplace to an independence hero, and Su›ureyri preserves one of the island’s oldest whaling stations. West Fjord society nurtured most of Iceland’s witches and sorcerers, and nowadays offers the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft. Sævangur has a Sheep Farming Museum, Hnjótur is home to an air transportation and folk museum, Bíldudalur to a music museum, and Flateyri to the Doll Museum, while the Maritime Museum at Ísafjör›ur displays Iceland’s oldest group of wooden buildings. Bolungarvík boasts both a natural histo-ry museum and Ósvör, showing gear for fishing work. At Djúpavík, travellers can tour an exhibition on the decades of the herring boom, and at Reykhólar on the use of natural resources.

Regional history Les passionnés d’histoire viennent dans les Fjords de l’Ouest, là où Hrafna-Flóki a vu du haut de la montagne un fjord rempli de glace – bap-tisant le pays de ce fait Islande. Les souvenirs historiques sont nom-breux pour les visiteurs. Des ruines le long de la mer, des bergeries et des fermes abandonnées dans les vallées. Les ruines Flókatóftir près de Brjánslækur datent des temps de la colonisation. Jón Sigur›sson, le pre-mier président, est né à Hrafnseyri. À Su›ureyri dans le Talknafjör›ur, se trouve l’une des principales stations baleinières du pays. Puissance et abondance ont été les symboles de la région, et la sorcellerie a été pratiquement limitée aux Fjords de l’Ouest. Un Centre de l’Elevage des Ovins est installé dans la maison communautaire de Sævangur; à Hólmavík et dans le Bjarnarfjör›ur se tient l’Exposition de Sorcellerie, où sorciers et sortilèges sont à l’honneur.

Histoire


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Important farms existed at three locations of theDeep: on Vigur Island, on Ædey Island and at Ögur,where there’s still a large farm. There are eightchurches in the fjord, clearly showing that the areawas once highly populated. An impressive schoolbuilding exists in Reykjanes at the base of the fjord,which is no longer a school now but a hotel that isopen all year round. At the hotel you’ll find a 50-metre-long swimming pool with naturally heatedwater, perhaps too warm for swimming, but excel-lent for resting tired muscles.

Geir Gudmundsson, wearing traditional Icelandic fisherman’s clothing at the Maritime Museum Ósvör in Bolungarvík.

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ICELAND REVIEW 13

Halldór Haflidason, farmer at Ögur, gathering hey in the churchyard at Ögurkirkja.

Ísafjardardjúp is in the heart of the West Fjords, in the

extreme northwest corner of Iceland. It´s less than 300 km

from Greenland over the Denmark Strait. Ísafjardardjup,

with its long coastline, is a perfect representative of the

West Fjords, one off the least travelled places in Iceland.

Here is one of Iceland’s best kept secrets, with its quiet fjords

and marvellous wildlife.

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www.airiceland.is | 570 3030

Discover the many faces of Iceland

Fly with us for action-packed day tours

Chilling excitement

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Silfurtorg 2400 Ísafjörður

Sími: +354 456 4111Fax: +354 456 4767

www.hotelisafjordur.isnetfang: [email protected]

HÓTEL ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

At the heart of the Westfjords lies the modern and comfortable Hótel Ísafjörður. Surrounded by the natural splendour of the fjords and mountains, the hotel is an ideal setting for a unique visit to this picturesque corner of Europe.

Hôtel Ísafjörður est un hôtel agréable/ confortable de 3 étoiles. Toutes les conditions sont comme il faut.Toutes les chambers sont avec douche, téleviseur et autres conforts.

HÓTEL EDDA - ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

Hotel Edda Ísafjörður is a two star summerhotel. Rooms with or without bath. Sleepingbag accommodation in rooms or in classrooms. A rich and varied buffet breakfast. Camping site beside the hotel.

Hótel Edda de 2 étoiles se trouve à Menntaskólinn d’Ísafjörður, le Lycée de la ville. Hébergement en chambres sans ou avec douche. Également on offre hébergement en sac de couchage et du camping. Petit-déjeuner copieux.

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Sea transport has always been important in the West Fjords, where many attractions cannot be reached except by watercraft. A good starter is taking the ferry to Brjánslækur via Flatey, site of the old-est library in Iceland. Other boat trips on offer include sightseeing in Ísafjar›ardjúp, with a stop at the island of Vigur; a circular trip through the enchanting Jökulfir›ir; or trips to Hornstrandir. One trip leaves Nor›urfjör›ur for Reykjarfjör›ur Nyr›ri and Hornvík. Sea angling and excursions to Grímsey, by Steingrímsfjör›ur, are available from Drangsnes. Finally, the West Fjords are a kayaker’s paradise, with trips offered at Önundarfjör›ur, Ísafjör›ur and other places. Kayaking in Jökulfir›ir will prove the trip of a lifetime.

Travel by sea


Les transports maritimes ont de tout temps joué un rôle primordial dans les Fjords de l’Ouest, l’accès à de nombreux sites réputés et intéressants n’est possible que par la mer. Une occasion saisissante pour les visiteurs – approcher la nature par un tour en mer. Il est pos-sible de commencer sur le Brei›afjör›ur par le bateau de Brjánslækur, en faisant une étape à Flatey, où se trouve la plus ancienne biblio-thèque du pays. Un tour en bateau sur Djúpi› pour aller à Vigur a des relents du temps passé. Un départ quotidien a lieu pour Hornstrandir, et des circuits sont organisés pour les superbes Jökulfir›ir. Une liaison régulière par bateau part de Nor›fjör›ur (Strandir) pour Reykjafjör›ur Nyr›ri et Hornvík. Au départ de Drangsnes il est possible d’aller pêche le gros et de prendre pied à Grímsey. Il faut aussi se rappeler que les Fjords de l’Ouest sont le paradis du kayak de mer.

Bolungarvík

Arnarfjörður


Les routes de la mer

How to Drive in Iceland

A relatively large percentage of foreign tourists in Iceland travel around the country by car. Conditions in Iceland are in many ways unusual, and often quite unlike that which foreign drivers are accustomed to. It is thus very important to learn how to drive in this country. We know that the landscapes are beautiful, which naturally draws the attention of the driver away from the road. But in order to reach your destination safely, you must keep your full attention on the driving. This article is intended to point out the main dangers of driving in Iceland, especially the unusual ones that may come as a complete surprise to foreign drivers.

THE SPEED LIMIT IN POPULATED AREAS IS USUALLY 50 KM/HR. Speed limit signs are usually not posted unless the limit is other than 50 km/hr. It is often 60 km/hr on thruways, but in residential areas it is usually only 30 km/hr. The main rule on highways is that gravel roads have a speed limit of 80 km/hr, and paved roads 90 km/hr. Signs indicate if other speed limits apply.

A COMMON PLACE FOR ACCIDENTS TO OCCUR ON RURAL ROADS IS WHERE A PAVED ROAD SUDDENLY CHANGES TO GRAVEL. Drivers often do not reduce speed before the changeover, and consequently lose control. Loose gravel on road shoulders is also the cause of a great number of accidents. When driving on gravel roads – which are often quite narrow – it is important to show caution when approaching another car coming from the oppo-site direction by moving as far to the right as is safely possible.

BLIND HILLS – where lanes are not separate – can be very dangerous, and should be approached with caution. There are also many blind curves in Iceland that require skilful navigation.

ON THE RING ROAD ARE MANY SINGLE-LANE BRIDGES and the rule is that the car closest to the bridge has the right of way. However, it is always wise to stop and assess the situation, by attempting to see what the other driver plans to do.

IN ICELAND, YOU CAN EXPECT LIVESTOCK TO BE ON OR ALONGSIDE THE ROAD. Usually this means sheep, but sometimes horses and even cows can block your way. This is the case all over the country, and can be very dangerous. Sometimes a ewe will be on one side of the road and her lambs on the other. Under these conditions – which are very common – it advisable to expect the lambs or the sheep to run to the other side, where the ewe is.

IN ICELAND, DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW TO WEAR SEATBELTS, regardless of the type of vehicle or where they are seated. Studies of fatal accidents in recent years have shown that a large majority of those who lost their lives did not have their seatbelts buckled. Wearing seat-belts is especially important due to the nature of accidents in Iceland: many of them involve vehicles driving off the road and rolling. In such accidents, seatbelts often mean the difference between life and death. It should be noted that children must wear seatbelts or be in car safety seats, depending on their age and maturity.

IT IS AGAINST THE LAW TO OPERATE A VEHICLE IN ICELAND AFTER CONSUMING ALCOHOL and violators can expect stiff penalties.

ICELANDIC LAW REQUIRES THAT VEHICLE HEADLIGHTS BE ON AT ALL TIMES, day and night, when driving.

OFF-ROAD DRIVING IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. Such driving results in serious dam-age to sensitive vegetation, which may take nature decades to repair.

Foreign travellers requiring information regarding road and driving conditions should visit the Public Road Administration’s website at www.vegagerdin.is

It should be noted that the Road Traffic Directorate has produced a video for foreign drivers, which covers all the points mentioned here. The video can be viewed on the Directorate’s website, www.us.is

Townshipof Ísafjör›urWhatever the season - whatever the reason

BIRD WATCHING

SEA KAYAKING

CAR RENTALS

CULTURE

SIGHTSEEING

BIKE RENTALS

SWIMMING POOLS

GOOD CAMPING SITES

HOTELS & GUESTHOUSES

BOAT TRIPS for a breeze and open spaces

nature versus gravity

feel the rhythm of the sea

for mountain passes and scenery

for times gone by

and discover unique nature

for the exercise

after a perfect day

for a good night´s sleep

for an even better sleep

Tourist Information Centre • Hafnarstræti 1

400 Isafjordur • Tel. (+354) 456 5121

[email protected] • www.isafjordur.is

La faune est variée et offre aux observateurs une grande diversité. Látrabjarg est la falaise d’oiseaux la plus peuplée de l’Atlantique nord. Des millions d’oiseaux de toutes sortes y nidifient, et la falaise héberge la plus importante colonie d’Europe de pingouins Torda. Hornbjarg et Hæluvíkurbjarg sont aussi renommées en tant que falaises d’oiseaux. Le Vatnsfjör›ur héberge une population d’oiseaux très variée, ainsi que le fond du Ísafjar›ardjúp, particulièrement Æ›ey et Vigur où la popula-tion d’eiders à duvet est importante, et où l’on trouve de nombreux macareux et autres oiseaux de mer. L’imposant aigle Pyrargue à queue blanche plane sur les eaux du Brei›afjör›ur et le fond du Ísafjar›ardjúp, à la recherche d’une proie. Hornstrandir est une terre d’asile pour le renard arctique. Avec un peu de chance, la baleine soufflera près de la terre.

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Fauna La faune

Small fauna crowd the diverse shores, while seals bask on reefs. The largest bird cliff in the North Atlantic is Látrabjarg, with Europe’s greatest population of auks, and the bird cliffs of Hornbjarg and Hælavíkurbjarg are also renowned. Vatnsfjör›ur and Ísafjar›ardjúp have colourful bird life, especially the islands of Æ›ey and Vigur, where eider ducks breed along with puffins and other sea birds. Multitudes of puffins also inhabit Grímsey by Steingrímsfjör›ur. Living in Brei›afjör›ur and the south-east parts of Ísafjar›ardjúp, the sea eagle ranges widely to feed. In Hornstrandir, the Arctic fox is frequently noticed carrying its prey. With luck, one can spot whales blowing, even from land. Wonderful times await any nature lover in the peace of the West Fjords.

Sea Eagle / Pyrargue ‚ á queue blanche

18 ICELAND REVIEW

transport. The only way to get there is by foot orboat. This area, along with Hornstrandir (the glacierfjords farthest north), are the most inhospitable areasof Iceland, with extreme changes in weather andharsh landscapes. Adventurous souls will enjoy theunique experience these surroundings offer, as wellas getting to know the individual, strong peopleinhabiting the Deep – people who have had to fightfor their survival through the ages, their harsh strug-gle showing in the lines on their faces. These peopleare stubborn, feisty and hard-working. They areproud to be from the West Fjords, and proud to befrom the Deep, which they consider the best place onearth. And sometimes I’m prone to believe them.

Páll Stefánsson is the photographer of Iceland Review.

A couple of swans swimming near the base of Ísafjördur fjord. This is a great place to stop and just enjoy the silence.

010 Djúpi› 19.11.2002 9:14 Page 18

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Locations near the West Fjords AreaA proximité de l'Islande de l'ouest

Hvítserkur

Málmey

Búðakirkja / Snæfellsjökull

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1. REYKHÓLAR: Exhibit on using natural resources, Tel. 434-7830

2. FLATEY: the island village and library

3. HNJÓTUR: Egill Ólafsson Folk Museum, Tel. 456-1511

4. SELÁRDALUR: Samúel Jónsson Museum

5. BÍLDUDALUR: Music Museum, Tel. 456-2186

6. HRAFNSEYRI: Jón Sigur›sson Folk Museum, Tel. 456-8260 www.hrafnseyri.is

7. DÝRAFJÖRÐUR: Hlí› Cultural Heritage Museum, Núpur, Tel. 456-8239

8. FLATEYRI: International Doll Museum, Tel. 456-7710

9. ÍSAFJÖRÐUR: West Fjords Heritage Museum. Maritime Museum. Tel. 456-4418

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10. BOLUNGARVÍK: Ósvör fishery collection, Tel. 863-1615

10. BOLUNGARVÍK: Museum of Natural History, Tel. 456-7005 www.nave.is

11. DALBÆR: Snæfjallaströnd history exhibition, Tel. 456-2660

12. TRÉKYLLISVÍK: Kört crafts and souvenirs, Árnes. Tel. 451-4025

13. DJÚPAVÍK: Djúpavík history exhibition, Tel. 451-4037

14. HÓLMAVÍK: Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft, also Klúka in Bjarnarfjör›ur, Tel. 451-3525 www.vestfirdir.is/galdrasyning

15. SÆVANGUR: Sheep Farming Museum, Strandir, Tel. 451-3324 www.strandir.is/saudfjarsetur

16. HRÚTAFJÖRÐUR: Húnavatn and Strandir Regional Heritage Museum, Reykir, Tel. 451-0040 www.simnet.is/ofeigur

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travelling in fantastic scenery / nature … · travelling in fantastic scenery / nature grandiose...

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