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Karibu!

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 5

This edition published 30 December 2013ISSN 2046-133X

TRAVEL AFRICA magazine is published by Gecko Publishing Ltd.The Dovecote, Little BaldonOxford OX44 9PU, United KingdomTel: +44 (0)1844 278883Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893

@TravelAfricamag www.facebook.com/TA.magazines

www.travelafricamag.comwww.ta-emags.comwww.safariplanner.co.ukwww.geckomags.com

Editor / Publisher Craig [email protected]

Managing Director Iain Wallace

Business Development Manager Sally [email protected]

Sales Manager Dave [email protected]

Publications Manager Phil [email protected]

Customer Services Sherry [email protected]

Designers Mark Hartley and Lisa Duke

Sub-Editor Emma Gregg

Accounts Amanda Gaydon, Tracy Green and Jodie Pratt [email protected]

Dedication For Dad. For your inspiration, support and many questions. Fly free. Keep smiling.

SubscriptionsTravel Africa can be supplied:

as a traditional printed magazine as a digital fl ipbook from www.zinio.com as a digital fl ipbook and text format for

iPad and iPhone via the iTunes App Store.For full details refer to page [email protected]

ContributorsColin Bell, Ashwin Bhardwaj, Jackson Biko, Philip Briggs, David Bristow, Gemma Catlin, Lou Coetzer, Stephen Cunliffe, Aaron Gekoski, Emma Gregg, Anthony Ham, Carrie Hampton, Brian Jackman, Tabbi Mittins, Mark Stratton, Ann and Steve Toon and Mike Unwin

Editorial enquiriesWe accept no responsibility for unsolicited proposals and submissions. Please make all editorial-related enquiries by email to [email protected]

Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is made to ensure that the contents of Travel Africa are accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any consequence of using the information contained herein.

On the cover Tools of the trade. © Heinrich van den Bergh / HPH Photography

Footnote With our focus this issue on the state of the lion (p70), a lion paw print appears at the end of every feature article.

t the start of a year, many of us tend

to refl ect on changes we may wish

to make in our lives, or consider the

things we would like to improve. I view it as

evolution – the ongoing journey through life.

There have been changes here at Travel

Africa, and these will gather pace as we move

into 2014. Towards the end of last year Matt

Phillips left us after six years at the editorial

helm. Matt was a reliable and dedicated

editor who has played a valued role in the

life of the magazine, driven by his shared

passion for Africa. We are grateful for his

commitment, and hope that his new adventures prove exciting and rewarding.

There are always many more stories we want to share with you as we continue our

exploration of the world’s most exciting continent. So, over the coming months we will

be giving thought to changes we could make to Travel Africa to enable us to get more

stories and images out to you.

We would appreciate your honest evaluation of what you like about the magazine,

and what you don’t. We’d love to know what you would like to read about and how you

would like to receive this material. For more on this, see page 43.

Africa itself has evolved at a rapid pace since we launched Travel Africa in 1997, and

this momentum will clearly continue. So much of this has been very positive, and we

look forward to sharing new adventures with you. However, such rapid development

exposes frailties, emphasizing the importance of tourism as a cornerstone of economic

and environmental balance across the continent.

Africa’s natural heritage is under greater threat now than ever. We explore the state

of the lion population from page 70, but this is just one of a great many species in peril.

Tourism is one of the most important tools in the conservation battle: the more people

who go on safari, the more reason there is to protect these assets and the harder it is for

poachers to infi ltrate.

We will therefore liaise more closely with conservation groups, and to this end are

very excited to have established a constructive working relationship with the African

Wildlife Foundation.

The decisions you make on where to travel and where to stay are even more impactful

now than they were a decade ago. So we’ve explored this in some detail from page 28.

We hope this issue inspires you to plan your next safari. A trip will of course be a

real high point in your year, but it could also have an enduring impact on the people and

wildlife in the region in which you travel. Everybody wins.

Safari njema!

Craig RixEditorA

Changing times


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28 Accommodation Spoilt for choice

Are you confused about where to stay? Luxurious lodge? Romantic camp? Remote? Quirky? The options are endless... Emma Gregg provides a few pointers.

48 Malawi Majete National Park

From poachers’ playground to thriving game reserve: Aaron Gekoski and Gemma Catlin discover a remarkable conservation success story in action.

54 History A journey through Africanhistory in just 20 stops

Phillip Briggs selects 20 sites that, in his opinion, provide a thorough overview of Africa’s oft-neglected past, as well as adding an exciting extra dimension to a more conventional safari or beach holiday.

64 BotswanaLand of dust and giants

Tabby Mittins and Villiers Steyn step into the tracks of elephants to fi nd out what the beguiling Tuli Wilderness has to share.

70 ConservationSo you want to see a lion, do you?

Of all the big cats, the lion is the one most frequently encountered on safari. Yet, these lords of the land are, tragically, in decline. Anthony Ham investigates.

86 Kenya The road less travelled Kenya is not renowned as a self-drive

destination. But this doesn’t deter Steve and Ann Toon, who dust down an ageing 4WD and head off on an epic adventure...

92 Namibia Secret stars According to the brochures, none of

Namibia’s tourist hotspots are to be found in the Kalahari region. Keen to prove otherwise Stephen Cunliffe set off on a journey of discovery.

98 Portfolio An intimate African journey Photographer and safari operator Lou

Coetzer captures moments that aff ord a deeper understanding of the continent’s wildlife.

FeaturesTravel Africa Edition 65, Winter 2014

28 How to choose the perfect

place to stay on your safari

INDABA P15- 25News and views about what’s going on in Africa, including: the African Queen sails again; Meet the Smalls, Kenya’s most loyal visitors; African events – the latest must-sees around the continent; the Discover Africa Show; and a conversation with Nile explorer Levision Wood.

Contents

SAFARI P108-115 Reports, reviews and solid advice for your next African trip, including: Essential South Africa – bush and beach safaris; Wildfi le – bizarre ways that animals get around; and Photoschool – anticipating the shot.

Zambia Safari Planner Page 119

KAYA MAWA, COURTESY WILDERNESS SAFARIS


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8 Travel Africa Winter 2014

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Lion vs elephant. Desert vs water. These

are two signifi cant battles played out in

what is one of southern Africa’s greatest

protected areas. Spread across 14,651 square

kilometres of Kalahari sand, savannah and

thickly wooded bushland, Zimbabwe’s

largest national park is home to more

mammal species (108 at last count) than any

other park in the world. At the eastern end

of a migratory route linked to Botswana’s

Chobe National Park, the park also receives

tens of thousands of elephants during

the dry season. As the desert heat wins

its war with natural water levels, herds of

all varieties congregate around the long-

established artifi cial pans. The wildlife

viewing at these times can be astounding.

Although 19 species of large herbivore

are present here, including Africa’s ‘big

fi ve’ antelope (eland, roan, sable, greater

kudu and gemsbok), the sheer number of

elephants make them the most abundant of

these in the area. And this has made them

a target for the park’s prides of lions. The

big cats have adapted to the situation and

acquired the skills to take down not just

newborns but also males up to the age of

thirteen. Incredibly, elephants make up a

signifi cant proportion of their diet, even

more so in particularly dry years.


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This is Africa

Winter 2014 Travel Africa 9WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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100 Bizarre AnimalsHave you ever seen a fi sh that walks, a deer with fangs or a cartwheeling spider? Mike Unwin gives us an eye-popping and highly readable celebration of the most extraordinary creatures to share our planet, complete with fascinating information on their behaviour, handy distribution maps and stunning images of each one in all its glory.Hardback. Price includes Post and Packaging.UK £ 12.00 / ROW £ 15.00

Order online at www.travelafricashop.com

If you’re looking to further your knowledge of Africa or fi nd a special gift, explore our range of unusual or exclusive products at www.travelafricashop.com including:

GREAT GIFTSfor the Africa lover!

Call +44 (0)1844 278883 Email [email protected]

Africa’s FinestThis is a game-changing book that celebrates the lodges and camps in Africa that are making a difference: those practising environmentally friendly and sustainable tourism methods while providing world-class safari and nature experiences. With an exhaustive adjudication process implemented by a team of highly experienced personnel, led by industry veterans Colin Bell and David Bristow, Africa’s Finest really does draw attention to the relationship between travel (and the choices

tourists make) and the fragile environment. Africa’s Finest is the ultimate green safari treasure map to this exhilarating continent and a must-read for any

safari enthusiast.Available exclusively in the UK from Travel Africa.

Hardback. Price includes post and packaging.UK £ 75.00 / ROW £ 85.00

NEW AND EXCLUSIVE!

Matopos 2014 This magnifi cent 13-month calendar for 2014 has been produced in support of the Matobo Rhino Initiative Trust, Zimbabwe. Featuring a stunning A4 photograph by Andre F van Rooyen and a poem by renowned local writer and poet John Eppel for each month. Dimensions 21cm tall x 29.5cm wide. Price includes Post & Packaging. UK £ 12.00 / ROW £ 15.00

EXCLUSIVE

NEW


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a world where nature

and contemporary comfort

blend into one

Perfectmoments Across

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MAR

K ST

RATT

ON

More than 60 years after the movie , starring Katharine

Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart, was shot on location in the

Congo and Uganda, the steamboat used in the fi lming has been

rescued and is now off ering pleasure cruises on the River Nile.

New Zealander Cam McLeay has fully restored the vessel after it was

found some years ago abandoned in Uganda’s Murchison Falls National

Park. Its reconstruction included fi tting a century-old steam engine

imported from the UK.

The restored African Queen recently began running two-hour cruises

from Whitewater Lodge on the Ugandan White Nile, north of Jinja.

African Queen sails again

More on the App


IndabaNews, views, events and readers’ stories – all with Africa at heart


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adventurous. We loved the search.”

Lodges and camps are now luxurious

aff airs. Back then it was a shower from a

bucket and lanterns for light.

“But the most signifi cant change is

the mobile phone,” laments Margaret.

“Safaris used to be silent aff airs. Now, the

ringing phones are always making a racket,

disturbing the peace and quiet.”

In the course of their frequent

visits they have developed a strong

bond with the staff (especially those

at Serena). Wherever they go, they get

recognised.

“Joyce Wangui [Serena’s Corporate

Sales Manager] is like our daughter,” says

Margaret. “She always invites us to her

home for dinner each time we are around.”

The closeness of the relationship

they enjoy with Serena was epitomised a

few years ago when they were invited to

the traditional wedding of Reuben Kirui, a

former employee.

“We went down to Mengwet in

Kericho, and were the only mzungus at the

wedding,” recalls Margaret. “Reuben went to

great lengths to ensure our comfort. He even

provided a translator to relay the wedding

proceedings to us.”

With a cheeky smile, Lewis interjects: “I

remember the vows very well. They read that

he would love his bride and his mother-in-

law equally.” The pair guff aw heartily at this.

There have been some dark times

though, such as the post-election violence

in 2007-8: times when their love for the

country was tested.

“[The violence] was a true moment

of sadness,” says Margaret. “We couldn’t

drive down to Kilaguni as planned, but we

came to support the country regardless.

We knew that Kenya and its people were

better than that.”

It’s in this same spirit that Margaret, at

the age of 70, took part in a 400km charity

cycle ride. “I, together with a group of 450

women, cycled from Meru to Lake Victoria,

with the aim of raising money for Faraja

Cancer Support Trust,” she recalls. “It was

gruesome, but we managed it. The event

raised some £52,000.”

Their mutual love for Kenya, the Smalls

say, has managed to keep their marriage

exciting because of the fulfi lment going

there together brings them. “This is home

for the Kidogos,” Lewis smiles. “This will

always be our home.”

It is no surprise that they are already

planning their next visit.

The Smalls call Kenya their second home.

In the Masai Mara – their favourite destination

– they are lovingly referred to as The Kidogos,

meaning ‘small’ in Swahili.

They have walked with Kenya from

the infantile days of tourism right up to the

present day, and have witnessed a dramatic

transformation.

“We are very humbled that we have been

a part of this growth,” says Lewis. Although

they can’t help but look back with jaundiced

eyes to a time when, they muse, the word

‘safari’ had a diff erent ring.

“In those days you would hardly ever

see children under 12 years of age in lodges.

It was simply not allowed,” recalls Margaret,

nostalgically. “During a recent game drive we

happened on a leopard that had just killed a

baby gazelle, and this one child was totally

traumatised. She cried helplessly throughout,

howling, ‘It killed the little Bambi!’”

Game drives have completely changed

over the years, they feel. For one thing, it’s

much easier to see animals now, thanks to the

cooperation between safari operators.

“There were no radio calls in the late

‘80s,” Lewis chuckles. “So we had to drive

around looking for wildlife. This made it quite

Jackson Biko meets Margaret and Lewis Small, aka The Kidogos, perhaps the most loyal of all Kenya’s visitors.

K enya may have recently celebrated

50 years of independence, but this

wasn’t the only jubilee in town. In

November Margaret and Lewis Small marked

their golden wedding anniversary with a trip

that took them to Nairobi, Tsavo, Amboseli

and the Masai Mara. It wasn’t their fi rst trip to

this magical country. Far from it.

The Smalls fi rst set foot in Kenya in

1988. At the end of this maiden visit, while

Lewis stood at Kilaguni Safari Lodge’s

reception settling the bill, Margaret lingered

at the dining room window, drinking in the

expanse of Tsavo West National Park.

Back then, she remembers, ‘the wild’

wasn’t a term that merely implied a place

removed from the city. “I felt that I was in

God’s country,” she recalls, “untouched by

human hand.”

It was at this moment that Margaret

experienced an overwhelming feeling of

attachment to Kenya. “I knew then that I

would keep coming back,” she says.

She was true to her word. She and Lewis

have returned to Kenya every year for the last

25 years, and on 20 of those trips they have

stayed exclusively with Serena Hotels, the

group that now runs Kilaguni.

It’s a Small world


Journal


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18 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Well, it doesn’t get more out-there than

this. In a fi rst for Africa, the Manta Resort

on Pemba has opened an underwater

hotel room.

The brainchild of Swedish artist

Mikael Genberg – who opened his

fi rst such facility in 2000 in a lake near

Stockholm – the room is anchored in the

Blue Hole, some 250 metres off shore. This

circular hole, an anomaly in the coral reef

visible from the main resort, is roughly

50m in diameter, 12m deep and home to

abundant marine life.

Built on three levels, the Underwater

Room comprises a landing deck, at sea

level, with a lounge area and bathroom

facility, and a roof deck for sun worshippers

and star gazers alike. But the pièce de

resistance is downstairs, below the surface

A deep sleepOn 28 December Durbanites painted the

town red… and blue, green and yellow. In

fact, pick your favourite colour. The worldwide

Holi Festival of Colours touched down in

Durban, South Africa, as part of a World

Tour. Having already been to Johannesburg

in September and Cape Town in October,

the festival certainly brought a new take on

the Rainbow Nation.

Holi is one of the largest festivals in

India. It announces the arrival of spring

and the passing of winter, and also marks

the victory of good over evil. During the

celebrations, the caste system is ignored and

all people are considered equal – the symbol

for that being the shared immersion in colour,

traditionally red. To express this, every hour on

the hour from 2pm a countdown culminated

in revellers throwing powder into the air to

create a massive explosion of colour.

Namibia has renamed the Caprivi Strip the

Zambezi Region in a move to downplay

its German colonial history. The 450km-long

fi nger of land, just 105km at its widest and

32km at it narrowest, is popular with visitors

for its tropical rivers and abundant wildlife. But

its very existence is an accident of history.

Formerly known as Itenge, this skinny

panhandle in the northeast of the country

was renamed in 1890 in honour of Count Leo

von Caprivi ( ), the Chancellor of Germany.

Germany gained control of the area after

signing the Heligoland Treaty with Great

Britain. Under its terms, Germany renounced

its claims to certain areas in East Africa,

thereby safeguarding Britain’s protectorates

in the region. In return Germany acquired

Heligoland, two strategic islands in the

North Sea, and Itenge. It was a deal based on a

miscalculation by the Germans.

It was Caprivi’s waterways that had

caught their eye, as they saw the chance to

open up a trade route through Zambia all the

way to the Indian Ocean. They forgot one

thing, however: a 108m-torrent of plunging

water called , or Victoria Falls.

The route was unnavigable, and the Germans

were stuck with a white elephant.

Caprivi becomes the Zambezi Region

Fancy laying your head somewhere different?

of the water – the bedroom.

Surrounded on

every side by panes of

glass, which aff ord

a 360-degree view,

you can while

away the hours

with a unique

outlook onto this

underwater world.

Shoals of reef fi sh

swim lazily by, while some simply hang

around the room, including three bat fi sh

and a trumpet fi sh called Nick. You might

even see a shark peering through your

window. At night spotlights beneath each

window attract some shyer and more

unusual marine life, such as squid.

Powder to the people

© F

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News


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15 MARCH ■ CAPE TOWN CARNIVAL, SOUTH AFRICA

Here are our picks from the African calendar this quarter.

JANUARY-FEBRUARY ■ GORILLA SPOTTING, UGANDA


© B

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African events

19 JANUARY ■ TIMKAT,

ETHIOPIA

2 MARCH ■ KILIMANJARO MARATHON, TANZANIA

WIL

D F

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S


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The Adventure Travel Show as a whole brings

together the biggest collection of specialist travel

operators under one roof, who will be on hand

to off er advice on everything from walking and

trekking, epic journeys, exploratory travels and

exclusive expeditions to safaris, overland trips, life-

changing volunteering projects and much more.

There’s also the chance to hear more than 100

free talks in four theatres, from explorers, industry

experts, guidebook writers and expedition leaders

who will help you uncover your perfect adventure.

If you are thinking of undertaking the

ultimate travel challenge of a self-supported trip

there is the Adventure Planning Seminar*, new

to this year’s show. A panel of world-renowned

expedition planners will help you plan your own

journey, whether it be by vehicle, motorbike, cycle,

horseback, walking or fl ying, on your own or part

of a small group.

Visitors can also take part in the Travel Writing

and Travel Photography Seminars*, which are suited

to both beginners and professionals looking to make

their work as powerful as possible.

News


ravel Africa

A show within a show, Discover Africa enables

visitors to explore the world’s most exciting

continent. This feature, dedicated purely to African

travel, is designed to provide you with all the

information and practical advice you require to plan

your adventure of a lifetime, whether you are a fi rst-

timer to Africa or a seasoned veteran.

The show is packed with Africa experts, so

take the opportunity to speak with safari operators,

conservation organisations, self-drive and overland

companies, tourism organisations and offi ces, and

activity and adventure specialists off ering climbing,

diving, walking, ballooning, fi shing, watersports, and

cycling. Discover Africa has the lot covered.

In addition there is a dedicated Africa theatre,

featuring inspirational talks, information and advice.

Planning a trip to Africa? Then don’t miss the Adventure Travel Show on 25-26 January at Olympia, London

© 4

CO

RNER

S

Ticket information

One-day entry: £4 in advance, quote ‘Travel Africa’ (normal price, £8) or £10 on the door, under-16s free

Weekend entry: £12 in advance or £15 on the door

For full details, talk timetables and to book tickets please go to www.adventureshow.com or call 0871 230 7159 (calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras).

*Seminar tickets are individually priced. Please see website for more details.


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Levison WoodOn 1 December 2013 Levison Wood took the first steps on an ambitious journey to become the first person to walk the entire length of the River Nile. Before he left, he shared a few moments with Ash Bhardwaj.

In conversation with explorer

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVE SOUTHWOOD


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What are you most looking forward to?The variety. I’ll be walking through literally

every environment possible, from jungle

to swamp and desert to sea. We only hear

stories of famine and war from Africa; but

there’s such beauty, history and incredible

culture. I’ll be visiting places that are

totally unexplored.

And dreading?Being away from home for so long will be a

tough mental challenge. The Sudd Marshes

in South Sudan will be quite an obstacle. The

Sahara in summer isn’t going to be much

fun either.

What are your favourite parts of Africa?Cape Town was where I first set foot in Africa,

twelve years ago, and it’s one of my favourite

cities in the world. But three years ago I led

an expedition to drive two ambulances from

London to Malawi, camping in the wilderness

in Tanzania. One morning we woke to find

a herd of elephants passing our camp; the

majesty of the bush is unlike anything you

can imagine.

Are you looking forward to seeing the wildlife?The most dangerous place to be in Africa is

between a hippo and water. That’s where I’ll be

spending the next twelve months, so I should

probably pay attention.

So, the obvious question first: why are you doing it?The Nile is integral to the imagination and

consciousness of British exploration, but it’s

misunderstood: when we hear “the Nile”,

most of us think of sipping a G&T on a barge

near Aswan. But that’s just the last stretch; I

want to tell the story of the first 3000 miles of

the river.

But for 12 months? On foot?Ernest Hemingway wrote: “I never knew of

a morning in Africa when I woke up that I

was not happy.” There’s something magnetic

about the place. Walking is the simplest, most

primal way to travel – it’s how our ancestors

migrated from Africa – and it’s the only way to

really get to know a place.

Why now?It’s never really been possible before: anti-

malarial drugs didn’t exist in Victorian times,

and that stopped most explorers in their

tracks. In recent years, conflict in Sudan

has prevented travel, but it’s relatively

stable now.

It seems risky, though.We live in a risk-averse world; adventure

is all about embracing risk, and doing your

best to manage it. If you really want to push

yourself, mentally and physically – or discover

something new – you have to take a risk.

The honours list of River Nile

explorers reads like a Who’s Who

of derring-do: Livingstone, Speke,

Stanley, Burton. So you’d expect

someone who’s attempting to walk its entire

length to be a bit stand-offish. But Lev Wood,

31, has an appealing warmth that sets him

apart from those Victorian wanderers.

I first met Lev ten years ago, just after

he’d got back from a summer trip to the

Middle East: a wrong turn while hitchhiking

landed him in Iraq, just months after the

US-led invasion. With admirable modesty, Lev

made it sound like a trip to Brighton rather

than Baghdad, and I realised that this was a

man who dealt with risk in an astonishingly

composed fashion.

In the following years, Lev backpacked

along the Silk Road, became a Captain in the

British Army, co-founded a travel company

and led world-first expeditions on every

continent except Antarctica. But unlike many

adventurous souls, Lev’s ambitions don’t come

from a need to conquer. Rather, they’re born

from a desire to discover.

He and I have worked together on several

projects, from uncovering stories of 1920s

Paris to researching the history of the Silk

Road, but I’ve never seen him so excited about

a trip as his current mission to walk the Nile.

Before he left, we caught up for a brandy at the

Royal Geographical Society so that I could find

out why.

WALKING THE NILELev’s walk began in the highlands of

Rwanda and will take him through the jungles of Tanzania and Uganda and into South Sudan.

After navigating the immense wetlands of the Sudd, which grow to the size of England during the rainy season, he tackles North Sudan and the epic march across the Sahara, around Lake Nasser into Egypt, finishing at Alexandria where the Nile empties in the Mediterranean Sea.

He has to walk 4250 miles, passing through six countries in 12 months.

That’s a distance of approximately 100 miles each week.

The expedition will be screened as a four-part documentary on Channel 4 later in 2014.

FOLLOW LEVBookmark www.walkthenile.com for updates and to follow Lev’s video blog Twitter: @WalkingTheNile


Interview


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Let us invite you to discover one of Tanzania’s best kept secrets.

Lake Manyara – a small breathtaking National Park with an immense

natural richness that is home to more than 380 bird species,

including the thousands of fl amingos that tint the soda waters of

the lake pink, and the famous tree-climbing lions, which for reasons

unknown sleep in the branches of acacia trees.

Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge is strategically located on the

very edge of the vertiginous western escarpment of the Rift Valley,

affording magnifi cent views down across the whole lake.

Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable

safari experience from its privileged location, unrivalled by any

other, both for game viewing and scenery. Elegantly designed

as a two-level ensemble of buildings, its authentic traditional

African-style decorations create a unique atmosphere that perfectly

combines extreme tranquility with the best of adventure-packed

safari experiences.

From its privileged position, all the lodge’s 100 guestrooms have

stunning views across the tranquil and beautiful waters of the Lake.

The spectacular swimming pool, situated in a panoramic setting,

is a privileged location to enjoy the invigorating fresh air and the

breathtaking views of the pink lake.

ACTIVITIESGame drives Bird-walks Canoeing safaris and boating trips Mountain biking Ornithological safaris Horse riding Visits to the Mbu Cultural Tourism Programme

Romantic, remote, wild – that is Lobo Wildlife Lodge, located in the

north of Serengeti National Park, the most spectacular scenario

of wildlife in its pure essence. Lobo Wildlife Lodge is a dream

of romanticism in its remote location, strategically built into an

enormous volcanic rocky outcrop. It is the largest lodge on the

migration route, where it’s elevated position means that it can be

viewed from the comfort of a sun lounger. You can even watch from

the pool.

Artistically made of stone and local timber around clusters of large

boulders, harmoniously merging with its surroundings, the lodge

affords from its raised location stunning views of the most amazing

natural spectacle to be seen on Earth. Lobo is the fi rst lodge on the way

from Kenya to Tanzania, only 28km from the Masai Mara. The lodge

invites you to an unforgettable safari experience from its privileged

location, unrivalled by any other both for game viewing and scenery.

A waterhole below the lodge attracts a variety of wildlife during

the day and is lit each evening, providing a close encounter with an

interesting array of nocturnal animals. All the lodge’s 75 elegant

guestrooms afford superb views of this natural phenomenon, and

the sumptuous swimming pool is situated on the very edge of the

rock, offering uninterrupted views of the horizon.

ACTIVITIESDay wildlife watching Game drives Photographic safarisSpecialised migration safaris Ornithological safaris Hot air

balloon safaris Romantic picnics in the wilderness

The only lodge located on the very edge of the breathtaking escarpment of Lake Manyara National Park, affording magnifi cent views down across the lake.

The most romantic safari lodge in East Africa, remotely located in the north of Serengeti National Park, hidden within giant volcanic rocks and providing an unrivalled bird’s-eye perspective of the migration.

LAKE MANYARA WILDLIFE LODGE LOBO WILDLIFE LODGE

HOTELS AND LODGES TANZANIAwww.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com [email protected] +255 27 2544595 / 807 / 798 / 795


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Ngorongoro Crater is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the

world… A large caldera 600 metres deep that hosts the most unique

ecosystem on Earth, with 20,000 large grazing mammals and the

largest concentration of predators on the planet, playing a key role

in the maintenance of the ecological balance.

Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge is strategically perched on the rim of

this ‘Garden of Eden’, affording unbelievable views plunging down

into the crater fl oor, 7500 feet above sea level.

The lodge is elegantly built mainly from natural stone and local

wood, harmoniously merging with its natural surroundings, and

its panoramic windows encompass superb views of the Crater’s

great bowl.

All the lodge’s 80 rooms are exquisitely decorated, offering a

serene atmosphere of elegance. The modern rooms are all en suite,

with central heating systems and mosquito netting over the air

vents. From their elevated position, the rooms afford breathtaking

uninterrupted views, and the open-air terrace of the Rhino Lounge

Bar offers superb panoramic views of the whole crater.

Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable

safari experience from its privileged location, both for game viewing

and scenery.

ACTIVITIES

The vast and spectacular Serengeti is the epitome of most people’s

vision of wild Africa; its endless rolling plains perfectly defi ne

the meaning of its name in the Maasai language – Seregenget or

Siringitu means the place where the land moves on forever.

Seronera is one of the most important spots in Serengeti National

Park, where you can witness an actual kill in the fl esh. This area is

in the heart of the Serengeti, where all game drives, balloon safaris,

and catching planes take place. Seronera Wildlife Lodge is located

on the migratory route, and it provides front-seat viewing of this

extraordinary natural phenomenon.

Seronera Wildlife Lodge is artfully constructed around a rocky

outcrop from glass and wood elements, perfectly blending into its

surroundings. Next to the lodge, several waterholes attract, day and

night, the most amazing animals, providing a unique opportunity

for a close encounter with the Big Five. Seronera Lodge is only fi ve

minutes from the departure point for hot air balloon safaris, which

offer a thrilling bird’s-eye wildlife perspective of the vast plains of

the Serengeti.

From its privileged location, the Seronera’s 75 rooms afford

stunning views of more than a million wildebeest as they migrate

from Kenya to Lake Victoria to escape the drought.

ACTIVITIES:

Winter 2014

True African hospitality


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Spoilt for choiceLuxurious lodges, romantic camps, remote campsites, quirky treehouses… there are masses of wonderful-sounding places to stay on safari. So how on earth do you choose?

If you want to be certain of finding accommodation that suits your interests, fits your budget and makes a positive contribution to conservation and community development, you’ll need to do some careful research – or consult a travel specialist you really trust. Emma Gregg is here to help you on your way.


Planning


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A

What’s in your wallet?

Solo, couple or crowd?

All about the animals?

Where do I start?The reality is that nearly every destination offers a range of facilities, often through the whole budgetary scope and many with specific strengths. There are some simple questions to consider when narrowing down your options.


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Luxury at all costs?

Need know-how?

Keen to feel grounded?

“These days there are more and more

options which are community-owned, or

which support communities directly”

- Amanda Marks, Tribes


Planning

Where does your money go?


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Idube Game Lodge Sabi Sand Game Reserve

Mpumalanga

For more information, contact [email protected]

Tel +27 11 431 1120 www.idube.com

Land of Leopards

k

13 SAFARI CAMPS AND LODGES Botswana: Okavango Delta | Chobe Kenya: Masai Mara Tanzania: Saadani | Serengeti | Tarangire Uganda: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Zambia: Livingstone | South Luangwa

[email protected] | sanctuaryretreats.com

Farm Lodge

Get close to nature...A four-room, private and exclusive lodge, offering an authentic African experience.

Set in the Maasai Plains of Tanzania, it is a marriage of farmland, wildlife and Maasai life.

Contact Wendy on +255763876493

[email protected]


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Eager to break away from the herd?

So, should you ask an expert?

On safari, your bed for the night can be anything from a mattress and mosquito net in the wilds to a four-poster in a palatial lodge – each with service, facilities, atmosphere and culture to match. Which is best suited to you?

Campsites State-run accommodation Fly camping Tented camps Safari lodges

Room to manoeuvre?

“Three nights at a really

good lodge beats a week on

a cut-price minibus tour”

- Bill Adams, Safari Consultants


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Musango


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Royal MalewaneThornybush Private Game Reserve, near Kruger National Park, South Africa

Saadani Safari Lodge Saadani National Park, Tanzania

Rutundu Log CabinsMt Kenya, Kenya

Chobe Game LodgeChobe National Park, Botswana

Karkloof Safari SpaKwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa

Wasa LodgeKasanka National Park, Zambia

Governors’ CampMasai Mara, Kenya

Most lodges or camps offer a particular character, a feeling rooted in the location, back story, architecture, hosts or guides. To demonstrate, Emma Gregg picks a few that caught her imagination.

Character building

Governors’ Camp

Royal Malewane

Saadani Safari Lodge


Planning


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The big green lie

So you want to stay somewhere with ‘green credentials’? What does that mean, exactly, and how can you find out what your proposed hosts are doing to support the environment and community? David Bristow and Colin Bell, co-authors and founders of Africa’s Finest, make the case for choosing accommodation with impeccable responsible tourism pedigree.

Choosing a positive


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Many shades of green

environment?

The days of lodges continuing to spew out carbon pollution to create

electricity should be long over


Planning


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What did we look for?

Sustainable design and construction

Lodge operations

Kitchen

Water supply

Electricity

Hot water

Sewage and grey water

Waste management

Wildlife and conservation

Staff

Community and governments

Conservancies

Lodge activities

Vehicles and boats

Payments

Travelling responsibly

If safari tourism is carefully structured and

managed, it can become the prime industry

that ensures the preservation of the planet’s

remaining wildernesses


Planning


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Botswana

Central African Republic

Kenya

Madagascar

Malawi

The following camps or lodges scored the highest in the Africa’s Finest evaluation process – conducted over three years – and represents what the project’s adjudicators deem to be the 50 premier safari properties.

Mozambique

Namibia

Rwanda & Uganda

Seychelles

South Africa

Africa’s Finest?

Buy your copy of Africa’s Finest

Order your copy today from www.travelafricashop.com. Stocks are limited.

Have your say!

Tanzania

Zambia

Zimbabwe


Planning


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O

[email protected] | Skype: lemalanbores

+255 27 254 8966/52 | www.lemalacamp.com

ADVERTISING PROMOTION

Soul of theerengeti


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Karibu!

WE’D LIKE YOUR HELP TO SHAPE THE DEVELOPMENT OF TRAVEL AFRICA MAGAZINE

What sort of content do you want more of?

How do you prefer to receive the magazine?

Do you read articles or view pictures online?

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PLEASE GIVE US YOUR OPINION... and you’ll go in a draw to WIN a great prize

TELL US WHAT YOU THINK


PLEASE COMPLETE OUR QUESTIONNAIRE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM


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Re-Live your dreams!

Tanzania Best Lodge and Luxury Camp Safari Services

Explore Tanzania with kearsley’sOne-Stop Shop Service

KearsleysT r a v e l & T o u r s

Est. 1948

2013

Leopard Beach Resort & Spa is delighted to have been voted both Kenya’s Leading Resort 2013 and Africa’s Leading Spa Resort 2013 at the prestigious World Travel Awards. The resort offers a choice of upgraded accommodation including 20 suites, cottages and villas; new wining and dining venues; and of course Uzuri, Diani’s – and now Africa’s – favourite spa. The latest addition to the resort, The Residences will offer luxury two-and three-bedroomed villas, each boasting their own pool, privately situated within the resort grounds.

So whether you are looking for the perfect family getaway, the dream wedding venue or an inspirational destination for your next incentive group or conference, come and visit the multi-award-winning Leopard Beach Resort & Spa.

C O M E A N D L I V E Y O U R D R E A M S

OpeningDecember 2013

www.leopardbeachresort.com

nominee: world’s leading spa resort 2013

A F R I C A T R A V E L S P E C I A L I S T S

pioneering journeys through africa

Uganda

Tanzania

Kenya

Rwanda

Ethiopia

Botswana

Zambia

Zimbabwe

Tel: +27 11 702 2035

+27 72 927 7529

Fax: +27 86 689 6759

[email protected]

www.wildfrontiers.com


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Our Destinations include:Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda / Rwanda

Wildlife Safaris• Air Ticketing• Mountain Trekking • Beach Holidays• Cultural Tourism• Honeymoon Packages• Balloon Safari• Hotel & Lodges Reservations• Gorilla Tracking• Car Hire• Corporate Events• Tailormade Packages•

TFA HQ, PLOT 76, SHULE ROAD, P.O. BOX 1684 Arusha – Tanzania,Tel: +255 27 854 4633 / 254 5947 Fax: +255 27 254 4991,Email: [email protected] | Web: www.worldairtravelandtours.com

We Specialise in:


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Use our knowledge and experience to plan a vacation you will never forget! We’ll take away the hassle, add something special whilst saving your money. Our local guides and team promise fl awless, meticulously planned, luxury travel to the most unbelievable destinations. With tropical islands, wildlife and mountains to explore our destinations include the most diverse countries in Africa.

Africa is our home and we take great pride in showing it off . Malawian Style getaways vary from high end intimate and romantic retreats, to adrenaline fi lled adventures. No matter what your version of the African dream, we pride ourselves on our local knowledge, expertise and ability to tailor destinations and experiences to individual visions. We off er a range of products without faltering on standards; our people oriented service, passion and enthusiasm ensure incredible experiences.

Pumulani, Lake Malawi

Photo: The Bushcamp Company

Sausage Tree Camp, Lower Zambezi

Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi

email: [email protected] www.malawianstyle.com

YOUR PERSONAL TOUR OPERATOR

Islands of Siankaba, Livingstone


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R

From rags to riches

Rivers of change

From poachers’ playground to thriving game reserve: at last some positive news for Africa’s wildlife. Aaron Gekoski and Gemma Catlin visit Malawi’s Majete National Park to discover a conservation success story in action.


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ALL PHOTOS ROBIN POPE SAFARIS, EXCEPT RHINO: AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN


Malawi


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From beach to mountain and the Big 5 to kite surfing

Malawi has something for everyone...

Let our experience make your experience

+265 (0)1794 555

[email protected]

www.ulendo.net

– ABOUT US –

Based in Malawi

Independent Travel, Group Travel, School Groups, Charity Challenges, Corporate and Philanthropic Travel

5% of RSC profit is donated to community projects in Malawi

– CONTACT US –

info@responsiblesafaricompany.comwww.responsiblesafaricompany.com

Tel UK: +44 (0)208 133 8611Tel Malawi: +265 (0)111602 407

Skype: responsible.safari.company

Picture by Gem

ma C

atlin


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Botswana

Wildlife relocations in numbers

Ten years on and, with the reintroduction of over 2500 animals, they’ve successfully breathed life back into this once beleaguered reserve, creating Malawi’s first park to offer the Big Five

Walk this way. The wildlife restocking programme has helped draw visitors to discover Majete’s dramatic scenery

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS

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Malawi


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NAMIBIA SOUTH AFRICA SWAZILAND BOTSWANA ZAMBIA MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE

See big and small game and an brilliant

variety of birds, and all the must-sees in

this amazing mix of countries, including

the Victoria Falls, Table Mountain and

all the wonderful World Heritage sites.

Relax as you discover nature’s many

secrets, enjoy the excellent food and

wines, then sleep soundly in the

stillness and peace of the African night.

Africa awaits – when will you go?

AFRICAEXPLORERTel: 020 89 87 87 42email: [email protected]

Let us help you choose your own safari,

to see southern Africa at the pace you

want to go at. We will plan your safari

holiday with care, to your specifications

and timetable, ideas and budget – and

we will also suggest our own ideas.

Unwind in game lodges, hotels, B&Bs,

guest farms or national parks.

Two heads are better than one

NAMIBIA SOUTH AFRICA SWAZILAND BOTSWANA ZAMBIA MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE


This serene, beautiful 500 acre Chimwenya game park and lodge is set in the indigenous forests and grasslands of the Shire Highlands of Southern Malawi approximate-ly 20km from Blantyre.

Experience exceptional viewing of wildlife which include

birdlife.

Enjoy in this tranquil setting our 5 luxurious ensuite

with exceptional views. There is also a choice of 20 spacious executive suites.

As part of the unique Game Haven Experience, treat yourself, friends and business associates to the interna-tionally designed & constructed Peter Matkovich 9 hole golf course which combines the amazing natural environment with a challenging course. Mbawa Country

Enjoy international cuisine at the Ambrosia restaurant, relax at the picturesque swimming

lawns of Lake Bvumbwe.

Mwana Park is now open, a children's

for relaxing with the family. ` +265 (0) 999 971 287/288

[email protected]

game haven lodge

There’s something for everyone


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The big questions

Where to stay

When to visit

Getting there

On the appMore photos of Majete, including images of the

wildlife relocation, appear on the App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.

Top: Much of Majete is covered with beautiful, mature miombo woodlands

Above left: Thanks to a prolonged restocking programme, you can now expect rewarding wildlife encounters in the many waterways of the reserve

Above right: Stepping out. A suspended walkway over the river leads to camp

AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN ROBIN POPE SAFARIS


Malawi


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By Phillip Briggs


stops


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History

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Isimilia Stone Age site


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Mapungubwe Hill


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History

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Elmina and Cape Coast

Kilwa Kisiwani

Ilha da Moçambique


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Robben Island

Saint-Louis

Bagamoyo


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Tabby Mittins is a freelance travel writer from Hoedspruit, South Africa. Together with her partner, Villiers Steyn, she explores southern Africa’s wildest national parks and game reserves in search of unforgettable experiences and sightings.

The Tuli Wilderness in southeastern Botswana truly feels like a place where time has stood still. The land has remained largely unfenced and untouched, leaving the wildlife to wander as instinct dictates. So what better way to explore this enchanted land of dust than in the footsteps of the giants who call it home. Tabby Mittins and photographer Villiers Steyn step into the tracks of elephants to fi nd out what this beguiling region has to share.

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Botswana


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‘I never knew of a morning

in Africa when I woke up

that I was not Happy’

- Ernest Hemingway -

Tel : +27 72 170 8879 | Email [email protected]

www.muchenje.com

Dav

e So

uthw

ood


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Botswana

We were met with the initially startled, then baffled, gaze of an adult female calmly observing our progress from the rocks just above

Below: No laughing matter. She says she remained calm, but we reckon this was quite a test

Right: Keeping track. Guide Stuart Quinn reveals the secrets of the sand. An experienced guide will enrich the safari experience beyond measure by sharing his knowledge of the workings of the wild


Botswana


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• INSPIRING LOCATIONS THAT FILL THE SOUL • UNRIVALLED SAFARIS AND WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES • ECO LODGES AND CAMPS WITH WELCOMING HOSTS • KNOWLEDGEABLE AND PASSIONATE GUIDES • FASCINATING HISTORY AND CULTURE

For tailormade holidays and safaris, contact us on: +44 (0) 1823 451959 email: [email protected]

www.outposts-travel-africa.co.ukfi [email protected] · +44 (0)1442 827 500

Skype: ngoko.fi ona · www.ngoko.com 20932

Owner-run and passionate about Africa, we provide a friendly yet highly professional service. With our expert local knowledge we

design journeys of discovery to enrich your soul. Private guiding is a speciality. Consider travelling with one of Africa’s top guides, and our

co-founder, Benson Siyawareva.


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ZIMBABWEZIMBABWEZIMBABWE

BOTSWANA

SOUTH AFRICA

Northern Tuli Game Reserve

MapungubweNational Park

Tuli Circle

Northern Tuli Game Reserve

MapungubweNational Park

Tuli Circle

MathathanePont Drift

Alldays

Mashatu Main Camp

Tuli Safari Lodge

MathathanePont Drift

Alldays

Mashatu Main Camp

Tuli Safari Lodge

5 miles0

0 10 km

GETTING THEREBy road: From Johannesburg (South Africa) via Polokwane, Vivo, Alldays and Pont Drift or Platjan border posts (6-7 hours). It is best to confi rm with Tuli Wilderness which border post to use, since some border posts close due to periodical fl ooding of the Limpopo River. Pickups from the border can be arranged. For complete directions visit www.tulitrails.com and click on ‘Where are we’.Vehicle entry: P195 (Botswanan Pula), also payable in South African Rands. Correct vehicle licence and paperwork are essential.By air: Chartered fl ights make use of Limpopo Valley Airfi eld, located approximately an hour’s drive from Tuli Wilderness. Transfers to and from the airfi eld can be arranged.

WHEN TO VISITTrails can be organised all year round, but the drier

months (April to September) are the best time for walking, being mild and comfortable, with daytime temperatures averaging 20-30˚C.

The best time for tracking (the driest time of year) is from June to October. Between October and March, it can be incredibly hot and temperatures may soar as high as 46˚C.

VISASTourists do not require a visa when visiting Botswana. However a valid passport, with at least six months left before expiry and two empty pages, is required.

MALARIAThe Tuli Block is located in a low risk malaria zone, but it is recommended that visitors take prophylaxis when visiting during the rainy season (December-March).

FIND OUT MORETuli Wilderness Trails (www.tulitrails.com)

Above: Highlights. Gazing out across the endless miles of Tuli’s prehistoric wilderness, you feel powerfully connected to nature

On the AppA story on the Tuli Block, from our archive, appears

on the App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’


Botswana


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Of all the big cats, the lion is the easiest to encounter on safari. While leopards remain elusive and cheetahs live at low density, lions roar often in the night, males march across the plains, lords of all they survey, and prides routinely pass the daylight hours if not in full view then in easily accessible pools of shade. Lions are cats of few mysteries, one of scant species in the wild that can afford to be visible and at rest.And yet, lions are in trouble.

So you want tosee a lion, do you?

Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott

70 Travel Africa Winter 201470 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Supported by African Wildlife Foundation


Conservation


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The mane eventWords: Brian Jackman Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott



Conservation

Buy this, the previous or other images as prints from the Scott’s Fine Art collection at www.jonathanangelascott.com


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74 Travel Africa Autumn 2013

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Words: Anthony Ham Photograph: Frans Lanting, Mint Images / Science Photo Library


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THREATS TO THE LION



Conservation


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This spread: Uncertain future: what do the coming decades hold for the descendants of cubs such as these?

Previous spread: In the wild, a male lion typically patrols a vast territory of up to 100 square miles

PHOTO THIS PAGE: BEVERLY JOUBERT (WWW.BEVERLYJOUBERT.COM)


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REGIONS AND STRONGHOLDS

East Africa



Conservation


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Central Africa

North and West Africa

SUCCESS STORIES AND SOLUTIONS

Lion Guardians

Southern Africa

Based on trends in lion numbers over the past century, lions could disappear from the wild in the next ten to fifteen years

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The pale markings immediately below the lion’s eyes improve visual acuity by reflecting extra light into the eyes. Further light-gathering power is provided by the tapetum lucidum, a reflective layer at the back of the eyeball which bounces light back, to give the retina a second chance to harness it.

The dew claw, analogous to our thumbnail, is clear of the ground as the lion walks. It gets very little wear and grows longer than the other claws. The lion uses it to hold down a carcass while tearing off mouthfuls of meat.

Lions may use their claws and body weight to grip and slow down a struggling animal, but they usually kill by strangulation, via a bite to the neck. The 10cm-long canines, applied with a bite force of nearly 50 bar, have enough crushing force to shut down the throat of the largest prey.

This young lion shows the remnants of the spotted pattern it had as a cub. Both a cub’s spots and an adult lion’s uniform tawny coat provide camouflage: the former from potential predators as the cubs hide in shady cover; the latter from prey as the lion moves in the open.

A running lion times its strides with its breathing, so that it inhales at the point where its extended forelegs allow maximum expansion of the very large lungs. Its ability to take in large volumes of air quickly means it can accelerate rapidly and outpace its prey in the first crucial moments of the chase.

When stalking prey a lion uses its whiskers to detect close objects, such as vegetation that could rustle if stepped on, allowing it to keep its gaze focused on its target at all times. This is especially important at night, when the fully expanded pupils make close focusing difficult.

ANATOMY OF A HUNTERWords: Marianne Taylor


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The expert view


Dereck Joubert PHOTO: BEVERLY JOUBERT

SEE PAGE 82 TO FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN SEE MORE OF BEVERLY’S

IMAGES SUPPORTING THE NEW FILM, ‘GAME OF LIONS’, BY

DERECK AND BEVERLY JOUBERT


Conservation


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[email protected]

+255 (0)78 822 1440

www.asanjaafrica.com

Located on the path of the migration, one of the ten natural wonders of the world, Asanja Africa is an exotic, luxury-tented camp that transports you to a bygone era, when the Masaai once ruled the wide-open plains of the Serengeti.

Tucked away in a sea of grass, amidst rocky islands, known as the Moru Kopjes, which provide ample shade for prides of lion, Asanja is a perfect place for game viewing.

Come escape the crowds, and experience the African wilderness...

Mbalageti SerengetiIn Your Wildest DreamsLocated off the beaten track in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, Mbalageti offers an exclusive safari living experience. The Lodge boasts 2 Exclusive Suites, 24 Tented Chalets and 14 Lodge Rooms (for budget travellers). All rooms have en suite bathrooms with luxury amenities and are designed with attention to the smallest detail. The Swimming Pool Deck, Bar and Restaurant, located on the tip of the hill with a 360 degree view, is the perfect venue for relaxing after a day of game viewing.

For further information, kindly contact:+255 28 262 2388 [email protected]


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Compensation

The best places to see lions

Buffer zones


“Not every operator is perfect, but it is important to know that a trip to Africa is a positive thing for the planet.”Dereck Joubert

Anthony Ham is a regular contributor to Travel Africa, and the author of the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s guide to Kenya.


Conservation


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FUTURE DEBATES

The role of tourism

Fences

A role for trophy hunting?


We’re extraordinarily lucky that award-winning photographer Beverly Joubert has given Travel Africa readers a sneak preview of still images from Game of Lions, the new film by Dereck and Beverly Joubert.

The images appear on the App edition of Travel Africa. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.

See also Beverly Joubert’s fine art website: www.beverlyjoubert.com

For more on the Jouberts’ tourism activities, visit www.greatplainsconservation.com

On the App

LAURENT GESLIN / NATUREPL.COM


Conservation


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In mid-November, the U.S. government crushed

its six tons of confi scated ivory to highlight

the plight of Africa’s elephants. AWF took the

opportunity to urge other countries around

the world to follow suit and destroy their own

ivory stockpiles. With more than 35,000 African

elephants killed for their tusks every year, AWF

proposed all countries implement domestic

moratoria on trade in ivory until elephant

populations are no longer threatened.

This new position by AWF comes in

response to the changing situation on the

ground. “Right now, Africa is hemorrhaging

elephants,” says Bergin. “Elephant carcasses

lie strewn in forests, on savannas and in

national parks, and their stolen ivory fl ows

out of Africa’s airports and seaports to illegal

ivory markets around the world. The only way

to staunch the movement of illegal ivory is to

wipe out the demand, and that begins with

destroying stockpiles and stopping trade.”

Though a 1989 ban on international

trade in ivory remains in place, many

countries—including China and the United

States—allow raw and worked ivory to be

traded domestically.


African Wildlife Foundation

Protecting the red colobusAccording to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of

Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population

has declined by more than 80 per cent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded

a Niger Delta survey of the Nigeria–Cameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel

Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since

expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of

Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.

For the fi rst time, everyday

Congolese are taking

an active role in the

conservation of their

country’s bonobos. In the

Congo landscape, AWF has

trained 50 people from

the Congolese wildlife

authority (Institut Congolais

pour la Conservation de

la Nature, or ICCN) and

the local community

to use CyberTracker

technology units to conduct

ecological monitoring in

the Lomako–Yokokala

Faunal Reserve. The trained

individuals walk the reserve

in groups of fi ve to eight

people, looking for signs

of wildlife and recording

their sightings into the

CyberTracker.

Previously only

ICCN ecoguards had

been allowed inside the

protected area. Now

that trained community

members are able to enter

to conduct the ecological

monitoring, AWF Congo

Landscape Director Charly

Facheux says they are

beginning to understand

more fully the value of

conservation and their role

in protecting wildlife. He

adds: “It is really wise to

work with them; they know

the geography very well.”

JEF

DU

PAIN

80% DECLINE OF

THE COLOBUS MONKEY

IN THE PAST FEW DECADES

Local ecological monitoring

CRUSH ALL IVORY

SIX TONS OF CONFISCATED

IVORY CRUSHED

The African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) is an international conservation organisation that focuses on critically important landscapes in Africa. AWF works to conserve wildlife, but within a larger framework of natural resource management that ensures the viability of ecosystems and provides access to economic opportunities for communities living in resource-rich regions. On these pages is a sample of the type of work AWF is involved in. To fi nd out how you can help, go to www.awf.org.

JAMIE COTTEN

CRAI

G R

. SH

OLL

EY


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Conservation


Indulge the chocolate lover in you

while also supporting AWF: through

its GiveBack partnership programme,

premium organic chocolate-maker

Endangered Species Chocolate (ESC)

has given five per cent of its net profits

to AWF since 2009. Donations from ESC

have been instrumental in underwriting

our African Apes Initiative to save

Africa’s great ape populations. They have

also supported some of our rhino and

elephant anti-poaching efforts. Last year,

ESC donated well over US$100,000 to

AWF from its chocolate sales.

To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/

chocolate

Chocolatey goodness

MAR

TIN

HAR

VEY

CONSERVATION CELEBRATIONSAs part of the 50th anniversary of Kidepo Valley National Park, one of the protected areas targeted under the USAID/Uganda Tourism for Biodiversity Program, AWF and Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) honored 10 Ugandan women who have shown exemplary leadership in conservation, including Dr. Margaret Druciri (pictured), a wildlife veterinarian with UWA who rescues injured or orphaned wildlife. This new ‘Uganda Women in Conservation’ recognition aims to encourage female youth to take up careers in conservation.

UG

AND

A W

ILD

LIFE

AU

THO

RITY

For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube. Log on to awf.org and follow the links for social media.

In October, more than 100 elephants in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park were killed and their tusks stolen when their watering holes and salt licks were poisoned with industrial cyanide, often used in gold mining. (Some reports are putting the elephant death toll at closer to 300.)

“Though elephants may

have been the target, poison is indiscriminate in who or what it kills. Lions, hyenas, vultures, kudus and other wildlife, in addition to elephants, have fallen victim,” says Philip Muruthi, senior director of conservation science at AWF.

Several arrests have been made in connection with the poisoning. Some of the

poachers who were caught even received 15-year jail sentences.

“Wildlife crime is not often seen as very serious and deserving of severe punishment but these jail sentences are very high, which suggests the authorities in Zimbabwe are taking this tragedy very seriously,” says Jimmiel Mandima, AWF’s U.S. government liaison and a Zimbabwe national. “Hwange is a huge area to monitor and protect. With limited staff and resources, I suspect park authorities were themselves

taken by surprise.” Reports suggest many of

the poachers came from local villages near the park. This is one of the reasons why AWF works so closely with local communities: those with access to economic opportunities and other social benefits are less inclined to turn to poaching and more likely to help catch poachers and traffickers.

“When local people benefit from living near wildlife, they will take ownership of and defend their natural resources,” said Muruthi.

ELEPHANTS POISONED IN ZIMBABWE



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I

The road less travelledKenya is not usually the fi rst destination you’d choose for a self-drive safari. So when wildlife photojournalists Steve and Ann Toon decided to tour its wildlife reserves in a restored but rusting 1970s Toyota Land Cruiser, it was sure to be an epic adventure...

Steve and Ann Toon are UK-based wildlife photographers and journalists with a specialist interest in wildlife, conservation issues and southern Africa. They are regular contributors to Travel Africa.


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Kenya

We’re delivering

carrots to four of the

last seven remaining

northern white

rhinos on earth

No monkey business. Located on the equator, between the foothills of the Aberdares and Mt Kenya, Ol Pejeta is the largest sanctuary for black rhino in East Africa, and the only place one can see chimpanzees in Kenya

ALL PHOTOS: STEVE AND ANN TOON


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Kenya

Left: Pelicans generally feed near the water’s edge, where they catch multiple small fish by expanding the throat pouch. This must be drained above the water surface before swallowing. Large fish are caught with the bill-tip, then tossed in the air to be caught and slid into the gullet head-first. Not that the buffalo seems to care

Right: The going is slow, and 4WD is recommended – indeed, essential – on many of Kenya’s more rural roads


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www.fl amboyant.co | [email protected] | +254 733 411110

Walking with Maasai warriors in Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara

Porini Safari Camps in Kenya for an exclusive wildlife experience:

Porini Amboseli, Selenkay Conservancy, Amboseli

Porini Rhino, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Laikipia

Porini Mara, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara

Porini Lion, Olare Orok Conservancy, Masai Mara

www.porini.com [email protected] 0870-4717122


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http://www.kenyacomfort.com




Kenya

Guide books and online forums are crammed with warnings about the risks of driving in Kenya, but with a little confidence and a lot of common sense we found it can be fantastic fun. In our experience:

Roads vary from a few slick Chinese-built modern highways to potholed nightmares where only goat herders use what’s left of the tar, and motor vehicles take their chances driving on the unmade verges. Most major routes are useable if you’re alert, but watch out for the killer speed humps in and around towns and villages: any warning signs or road markings have long since disappeared.

Plan ahead. Don’t rely on having to ask for directions: in remote areas you may struggle to communicate and locals (even policemen) often have limited knowledge of places beyond their immediate home. Road signs generally are in short supply, often absent even at major junctions. You need a good map (we used the Reise 1:950,000), and a handheld GPS might be a good idea. Get directions from lodges before you travel. Some will tell you, for example, the mileage from an obvious landmark to their turn-off.

Local driving standards vary from average to appalling, and you need to expect the worst: drivers who pull out from side roads without looking, overtake on blind bends, cut you up, fail to indicate, or wave you past when it isn’t safe to overtake.

Plan your itinerary to keep daily travel distances short, so you can drive slowly. Where in South Africa we may cover 1000km in a day, in Kenya we wouldn’t plan on more than 250km. Even major routes are often single carriageway and snarled up with slow-moving HGVs.

Absolutely avoid driving at night. This is when many accidents happen.

In central Nairobi there is permanent gridlock. Everyone ignores the traffic lights and give way signs (including the police), and the only way you’ll get out at a junction is to push forward slowly but assertively.

Hire a driver. If you’re still nervous, many rental companies will hire you a driver/guide with your vehicle. Keep your off-roading on the road. Generally game reserves are very easy to self-drive in, but be wary of going off-road (if it’s allowed), especially in muddy conditions. If you’re an inexperienced self-driver, larger reserves like the Mara may be better explored with a local guide or driver, or you can book onto game drives organised by your lodge.

4WD Hire. We borrowed Barney from a friend, but more recent 4WD vehicles can be rented (with or without chauffeur) from several companies, including Europcar (europcar.co.ke) or Safari Drive (safaridrive.co.uk).

Recommended reading: The Rough Guide to Kenya (www.roughguides.com)

Our driving advice

On the AppMore information on the northern black rhino, and on the places visited by the Toons, appears on our App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.

A sign of things to come: the Mara

beckons at the end of a long sandy approach


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The Kalahari region of southeast Namibia is home to none of the country’s major tourist hotspots. Its greatest claim to fame used to be a spectacular sandstone masterpiece known as God’s Finger; but this geological anomaly collapsed way back in 1988 and the area has languished off the safari circuit ever since.

Intrigued to find out whether there are any other notable attractions secreted amongst the dolerite boulders and red Kalahari sands, Stephen Cunliffe decided to set out and explore. The off-the-beaten-track highlights he discovered among the region’s sprawling sheep farms and wide open spaces don’t feature in any tourist brochures. Yet.

Cappuccinos in Koës

Explore: Drop Frieda an email ([email protected]) and she will prepare your favourite dish or pack you a picnic in advance.

Dine under the stars

Explore: DuneSong Breathers (www.dunesong.net)


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Star struck. A tranquil night at DuneSong Breathers

Undiscovered Namibia


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Discovering dinosaurs

Explore: Mesosaurus Fossil Camp ([email protected])

The devil’s camel ride

2

1


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Explore: Stay at Quivertree Forest Rest Camp (www.quivertreeforest.com)

Red dune quad biking

Explore: Intu Afrika (www.intu-afrika.com)

A quirky welcome awaits at the Moer Toe Coffee Shop

Fossil hunting at Mesosaurus

Quad biking in desert-adapted giraffe country

Dwarfed by the sculptural flora of the Quiver Tree Forest

2

1

3

4

3

4


Undiscovered Namibia


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Mobile Safaris in luxury and standard tents Tailormade safaris (Accommodated and Mobile) Namibia | Botswana | Zambia www.karibunamibia.com

DDiscover the real Africa with Karibu Safari

TourmalineTailormade Tours

From the sand sea of the Namib, to the luscious beauty

of the Okavango Delta and the majesty of Victoria Falls,

share our passion for Africa and let us help turn your

dream into an unforgettable journey.


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Chameleon Holidays & Travel Phone (+ 264) 61- 309387, Email [email protected] Web www.chameleonholidays.com, Skype chameleon.holidays

Facebook Chameleon Holidays & Travel

NAMIBIABOTSWANAZAMBIA ZIMBABWE SOUTH AFRICA

As well as being tailor-made, self-drive and specialists,

& Travel can also assist in arranging activities such as and taking

part in a

London Earls Court 6 - 9 Feb 2014


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As evidenced by the exceptional range of bird and animal imagery in his new book, An Intimate African Journey, South African photographer and Travel Africa columnist Lou Coetzer proves how a deep understanding of wildlife behaviour – as well as strong technical ability – can help you to capture some of nature’s extraordinary moments.

To learn more from Lou, be sure to attend his photographic workshop in Oxford in March, held in conjunction with Travel Africa magazine. See page 102 for details.

encounterscl se


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African jacana chicks are

precocial, being able to swim, dive and feed soon after hatching. The ungainly juveniles balance precariously on the edge of a leaf, sinking slowly, until they are overcome by the rising water. Only then do they reluctantly set off, swimming frantically for the next leaf

Portfolio


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Portfolio

Botswana’s rainfall peaks

from November to February, fi lling the Chobe River to capacity and often overfl owing its banks. The heavy rains fi ll every cavity in the surrounding landscape and the abundance of standing water causes a decrease in the numbers of large animals coming down to the river to drink.

The crocs in turn are deprived of their usual quotas of big prey to hunt at the riverbank.

Ever the opportunists, these predators of prehistory turn the situation to their advantage. The fast-fl owing waters of the deeper river make it diffi cult to hunt fi sh, but the steeper riverbanks allow them to sneak up to smaller, unsuspecting prey. Numerous small species of game, birds and even the occasional, nervous squirrel milling about serve as convenient snacks.


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African fi sh eagles are intensely territorial. They will immediately intercept any invader or predator that dares to intrude on their turf. At the end of the Chobe fl ood

season, around mid-May, the water level drops quite rapidly. With this subsidence, big catfi sh that are stranded in the newly formed mud will go into hibernation. After the fi rst heavy rains of the new season in November, the water levels slowly rise. The catfi sh then surface from their seasonal slumber. During this transition, while the waters are still low, the fi sh fi nd themselves trapped and vulnerable. Their frenzied thrashing about in the mud attracts large numbers of birds of prey. On one occasion we observed a greedy juvenile fi sh eagle struggling to lift a huge catfi sh out of the shallow water, only to fi nd itself defending its trophy from a concerted attack by a marabou stork.

PHOTOSCHOOL

TRAVEL AFRICA

Photographic workshopWant to improve your photography

skills? In conjunction with Travel Africa,

South Africa-based Lou Coetzer will be

hosting photographic workshops at the

University Club, Oxford, on March 8

and 9, 2014.

Suitable for amateurs and pros alike,

the fi rst day will focus on:

Rethinking the fundamentals of photography

Applying your equipment correctly

Photography basics

Application to wildlife photography

The second day will consider: Software, workfl ow and editing (top

tips which will dramatically change the way you work)

For more information and booking details, visit www.coetzernaturephotography.com


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Portfolio

I grew up with Africa’s amazing

sunrises and sunsets, but somewhere along the way I stopped really looking at them. Perhaps I was too focused on taking advantage of the golden light that each provided.

That was until one winter evening on the Chobe River a few years ago, when I suddenly realised that every other boat had stopped for its passengers to point their cameras at something. It soon dawned on me that the subject was a magnifi cent sunset.

I promised myself to never again take any sunrise or sunset for granted. Since then I have disciplined myself not only to chase the magic light that Africa’s sun provides, but also to stop and enjoy the beauty of sunrises and sunsets that are like none other in the world.

Research has found that the

relationship between territorially dominant hippo bulls and other bulls can be totally benign and even friendly, provided that the other bulls are subordinates.

When territorial fi ghts do occur they are, according to Mammals of the Southern African Sub-region, ‘ritualised frontal combats with splashing of water demarcating the boundary’.

I’m sure that’s fi ne if you are a hippo!


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Feature

Summer 2009 Travel Africa 105

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Follow the path of nature on Sibuya Game ReserveSibuya is a magnifi cent malaria-free game reserve

accessed solely by boat via the beautiful Kariega Estuary.Just 12 luxury en-suite tents, professional guides,

an abundance of game (45 species including the “Big Five”)and the splendour of the vistas will leave you saying

“Sibuya” – we will return

Reservations +27(0)46 [email protected] www.sibuya.co.za


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Thanks to its spectacular diversity, South Africa offers more holiday possibilities than any other nation on the continent. We asked Carrie Hampton, who has visited more than 200 safari lodges and dozens of beaches, to let us into the secrets of its best bush and beach destinations.

A ‘world in one country’, a ‘rainbow nation’ and ‘God’s land’ – these labels may be

clichés, but they’re well-worn with good reason. South Africa has almost every

kind of landscape, from wooded savannah to arid desertscapes, snow-sprinkled

mountains to sub-tropical forests. There are warm Indian Ocean coral reefs and cold

Atlantic whale breeding grounds. The South African people too, are fascinatingly diverse

in race, culture and language.

While the wildlife-watching opportunities here are fi rst class, it’s partly the

mesmerizing sway of the ocean that brings visitors fl ocking to this country at the tip of

Africa. Who isn’t going to feel relaxed with soft sand under their feet and a healthy dose

of sun on their back? Spending time at the beach after all those early morning game

drives in the nation’s many national parks and private game reserves is surely the perfect

way to end a South African holiday.

MADIKWE, LIMPOPOWithin sight of the Botswana

border and the twinkling lights of

Gaborone, the Madikwe Game Reserve

was created from scratch in 1991 with

a Noah’s Ark operation to translocate

game, including cheetahs and wild dogs.

It’s been a huge success. With numerous

private lodges, Madikwe is much more

aff ordable than the private reserves

around Kruger.

WELGEVONDEN, LIMPOPOWelgevonden Private Game

Reserve, in the rusty-red foothills of

the Waterberg Mountains, is three

hours’ drive north of Johannesburg. It’s

a malaria-free Big Five reseserve, with

small-scale accommodation including

private retreats and commercial safari

lodges with fully-inclusive prices in tune

with the local pocket. The surrounding

Waterberg valley contains many

hunting lodges.

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK & PRIVATE GAME RESERVES

This is classic safari country and one

of Africa’s top destinations for locals

and overseas visitors alike. Kruger has

more animal species than any other

African park, and over 500 species of

bird. Budget travellers can self-drive and

stay at public restcamps inside Kruger

Park. The adjoining reserves are dotted

with upmarket all-inclusive safari

lodges. There are literally hundreds of

options for game drives and bushwalks.

Wildlife sightings are better from a

purpose-designed safari vehicle with a

knowledgeable guide, but you will also

see big game aplenty by simply pottering

around Kruger in a hire car.

HLUHLUWE IMFOLOZI & PRIVATE GAME RESERVES OF KWAZULU NATAL

Hluhluwe Imfolozi is the jewel in the

crown of KZN’s public parks, renowned

for protecting its black and white rhinos.

Watch out for them on a self-drive

tour. You’ll fi nd rhinos in all the nearby

private game reserves too, such as 5-star

&Beyond Phinda and Thanda, and the

3-star & 4-star lodges in the Zululand

Rhino Reserve.

EASTERN CAPE GAME RESERVESThis is malaria-free wildlife

country, with a variety of private game

reserves in the wooded hills and bushy

valleys an hour or so inland from Port

Elizabeth. Addo Elephant National Park is

the public game reserve in the area. You

can guess from its name what you are

likely to see here!

GARDEN ROUTE RESERVES, WESTERN CAPE

Wildlife once roamed the coastal belt

of the Garden Route. Some private

landowners are now reintroducing

big game to the beautiful undulating

bushland around Mossel Bay and

other stretches of the Garden Route.

This is a fairly tame safari experience,

with the wildlife carefully managed

within relatively small estates, but the

surroundings are stunningly scenic.

KAROO SAFARI, WESTERN CAPEDrive for 2-3 hours from Cape

Town into the semi-arid Karoo – an

inland plateau of witches-hat peaks

and big-sky landscapes – and you can

safari in a private reserve. Some have

vast tracts of land in which lions roam

free, rather than being kept in fenced

sections, and many have the Big Five,

albeit in small numbers. It’s a fairly tame

but satisfying region.

KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK

The Kalahari is known for its red sand

dunes, dry river beds and photogenic

gemsboks, jackals, birds of prey and

black-maned Kalahari lions. This vast

park, which extends far into Botswana, is

an important migration corridor.

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NORTH WEST

LIMPOPO

WESTERN CAPE

Bloemfontein

Johannesburg

PretoriaSun City

Cape TownPort

Elizabeth

Kruger NP

Mapungubwe NP

Madikwe Game Reserve Pilanesberg Game Reserve

Kgalikgadi Transfrontier Park

Blyde River Canyon NP

Knysna

Greater St Lucia

Kosi Bay

uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP


Essential Africa

WELGEVONDENMADIKWE

CAPE TOWN TO CAPE POINT BEACHES

Head south from Cape Town to Cape

Point and you’ll fi nd many fabulous

beaches. Camps Bay and Clifton, close

to the city, attract beautiful people,

even though the Atlantic is freezing.

Further south, you can go horse riding

along the beautiful, long Noordhoek

beach, galloping through the shallows.

Fish Hoek on the False Bay coast is for

sandcastle building and safe swimming,

with shark spotters on duty. Kalk Bay has

delightful tidal pools and Muizenberg is

great for learning to surf.

LANGEBAAN LAGOON, WEST COAST

This enormous, azure lagoon has many

attractions, from shallow paddling in

bath-temperature water at Kraalbaai

in the West Coast National Park, to

challenging kite-surfi ng and hobie-cat

sailing at the seaside town of Langebaan.

CAPE VIDAL, KWAZULU NATALThis long sandy beach is great for

sunbathing and low-tide snorkelling.

It’s the conclusion of a drive through

the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World

Heritage Site, which gives you a bit

of sub-tropical bush and beach all in

one. Game reserves abound in the

surrounding area.

KENTON-ON-SEA, EASTERN CAPE

The Kariega River meets the sea at

Kenton, where you can relax on the

golden sand or venture into the Indian

Ocean. This holiday-home town only gets

busy when school’s out. Use it as your

beach base after visiting some Eastern

Cape game reserves.

JEFFREYS BAYJ-Bay’s legendary Supertubes Beach

has a 300m uninterrupted wave, considered

one of the world’s best right-hand surf

breaks. The long sands are always scattered

with surf dudes and bikini babes and there’s

a very chilled vibe.Temperatures average

19°C in winter and 25°C in summer.

PLETTENBERG BAY & KNYSNA, WESTERN CAPE

On the Garden Route, Plett has scenic

sunbathing and swimming beaches, plus

dolphin-and whalewatching boat trips.

Knysna is where the sea rushes through

a narrow gap in the cliff s known as The

Heads to form a wide, shallow lagoon, good

for boating and cruising.

1

2

3

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3

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7

6

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2 3

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Shark fi n, Kenton on Sea, Eastern Cape


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Flying around South Africa makes a lot of sense, especially when you realise it’s 1400km from Johannesburg to Cape Town (13 hours’ drive), and that’s not even the full width of the country. There are endless possible routes, so we’ve chosen three options with beach and bush in mind. These can be mixed and matched to suit your preferences, budget and timings.

EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE

NATAATALNNNNAAATATAATALLKWAKWAZULZULU NU NAAKWAKWAKWAZULZULZULU NU NU NAAKK U U

NONORTHETHERN RN CAPCAPEENORN THERN CAPCAPCA E

NORRTH TH WESWESTTNORTHH WESSTSSSESS

FREE SE STATT EEFREE STATEE

LIMMPOPPOPOOIMMMPOPPOPPOPOOOMPMPLILILILII

GAUGAUTENTENGGGAUGAUAUTENNGG

BOTSWANA

NAMIBIA

SOSOSOSOUTUTTH H AFAFAFRRIR CACA

NANANAANA

A

NANANANA

TENTEN

NNAANANANNNAAABloemfontein

Durban

Johannesburg

PretoriaSun City

Cape TownPort

Elizabeth

East London

Kruger NP

Mapungubwe NP




KnysnaJeffrey’s Bay

Greater St Lucia Wetland NP

Kosi Bay


CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE







BOTSWANA

NAMIBIA


NANANAANA

A

NANANANA

TENTEN


Durban

Johannesburg

PretoriaSun City

Cape TownPort

Elizabeth

East London

Kruger NP

Mapungubwe NP






Kosi Bay


CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE







BOTSWANA

NAMIBIA


NANANAANA

A

NANANANA

TENTEN


Durban

Johannesburg

PretoriaSun City

Cape TownPort

Elizabeth

East London

Kruger NP

Mapungubwe NP






Kosi Bay


CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP

Kruger National Park Lighthouse in Umhlanga, near Durban Cape Winelands

Days 1-4Fly from Johannesburg to Kruger National Park, to spend two nights at each of two different safari lodges. Being on safari can be exhausting: you get up very early for morning game drives and there’s barely enough time to scroll through your photographs and have a splash in the plunge pool or an afternoon snooze, between breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. Then off you go on the afternoon drive, which is immediately followed by dinner and bed. Before you know it, it’s 5.30am and time to do it all over again. But it’s worth it!

Days 5-7Fly from the nearest airport (or via Johannesburg) direct to Cape Town. Spend three nights in the Mother City, with a hire car or pre-arranged tours. You will want to relax after your safari, so grab a beach bag and head for the Cape beaches. This will take you on scenic routes with fantastic sightseeing potential.

Days 8-9The Cape Winelands has accommodation of every sort, often with magnifi cent mountain views and taxis to take you to restaurants and wine estates, so you can sample as much local wine and bubbly as you like. You should note that seven out of the Top 10 Eat Out Guide Best South African Restaurants are in the Winelands, so book as far in advance as possible!

Day 10Catch a return fl ight out of Cape Town, either direct or via Johannesburg.

Days 1-3 Pick up a hire car in Johannesburg and drive to Kruger National Park. Self-drive around the park, staying at pre-booked restcamps. Take some guided walks and night drives with park rangers. Spend your last night in the far south of the park.

Days 4-8Exit Kruger Park from Malelane Gate and drive to Swaziland, less than 50km south. Enter via the Matsamo/Jeppes Reef border post and hug the scenic west, leading to the cultural heart of Ezulwini Valley. Nearby is Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, a restful place to unwind. Then head east to Mkhaya, where you can track rhino on foot.

Day 9Exit Swaziland at Golela/Lavumisa in the south and within minutes you’ll see Lake Jozini. A boat trip may reveal warthogs, buffalos, antelopes and even elephants grazing the banks.

Day 10Visit Hluhluwe Umfolozi Park. The camps in this Big Five reserve are comfortable and affordable.

Day 11-12

Take a boat trip on the St Lucia estuary, looking for hippos, crocs and amazing birdlife. The next day, drive through the iSimangaliso Wetland Park to Cape Vidal beach for some sun and snorkelling, staying overnight in St Lucia town.

Day 13-14Drive to Durban and settle into a seaview hotel. Dip into the warm Indian Ocean, enjoy the sub-tropical sunshine and tuck into a curry. To extend your trip, you fl y to Cape Town for a few days.

Days 1-4From Johannesburg, take a 4½ hour transfer to Madikwe Game Reserve, or, better still, fl y there. Spend two nights at each of two different safari lodges and see if you can clock up a rare wild dog sighting.

Days 5-7Transfer to Pretoria and make your way to the private Rovos Rail train station. Board the most luxurious train in the world for a leisurely two-night journey to Cape Town. The Rovos Rail train has exceptionally spacious cabins, with king-size beds and free-standing baths. Once aboard, everything is complimentary including South African bubbly and exquisite cuisine. Don’t forget to dress for dinner: for gents, that means a jacket and tie.

Day 8The most exciting way to take in the sights of Cape Town is from a helicopter. There are many operators in the V&A Waterfront. You can do anything from a 15-minute Table Mountain fl ip to a full hour down to Cape Point and back. Once you’ve enjoyed the ride, head to the swish beach suburbs of Camps Bay and Clifton for some ‘me time’ on the sands, followed by sundowners at a cocktail bar on the shore.

Days 9-10Cape Town has some of Africa’s fi nest wineries right on the doorstep. Spend a couple of nights in a luxurious Winelands guest house, dining at one of South Africa’s top restaurants in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek.

14-day Supreme Self-Drive Safari Kruger >> Swaziland >> Hluhluwe Umfolozi >> St Lucia >> Durban

10-day Kruger to Cape TownKruger >> Cape Town >> Winelands

10-day Luxury Beach and Bush SafariMadikwe >> Rovos Rail >> Cape Town >> Winelands

Plan your trip

Kosi BaKosi BaKosi Ba

Blyde River Canyon NPBlyde River Canyon NPBlyde River Canyon NP Blyde River Canyon NP

Kosi Ba

Greater St Lucia

uKahlamba-Drakensberg NPuKahlamba-Drakensberg NP

Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game ReservePilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Reserve


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Essential Africa

LanguageEnglish is the offi cial language of commerce and politics, but South Africa has a total of 11 offi cial languages. Zulu is the most widely spoken African language, then Xhosa, followed by Afrikaans and English as a fi rst language. Most South Africans speak more than one language.

Time zoneGMT +2

International dialling code+27

VisasNot required by most foreign nationals.

HealthIf coming from a yellow fever risk area you may need to show proof of yellow fever vaccination. Malaria occurs in the more northern and eastern parts of South Africa, so precautions may be necessary. The tap water is usually potable.

MoneyThe currency is South African rand (ZAR). Exchange rates have been very variable and 2013 alone saw large fl uctuations. At the time of writing the exchange rate is around £1=R17, $1=R10 and €1=R14. With the rand weak, South Africa offers great value at the moment.

Getting thereThere are direct fl ights from most major cities to Johannesburg and Cape Town. SAA is the national carrier.

■ There’s no bad time to go on safari, but it helps to understand the

weather. There are distinctly different rainfall and humidity patterns

across the country from the northeast to the southwest.

All but the Western and Eastern Cape game reserves are situated

in summer rainfall areas, which get hot and humid from December to

March. The more it rains, the more the bush grows; wildlife scatters and

becomes harder to see.

In Cape Town, it’s warm and dry at this time of year – just right for

a summer holiday. Sometimes, the strong southeast summer wind

can play havoc with your plans to spend a day by the sea, but Table

Mountain forms a wind break, so you just have to go to the sheltered

side to fi nd a wind-free beach.

In winter (from July to September) the bush is dry and animals

gather at waterholes. Days are warm and nights are cool. Cape Town,

on the other hand, battens down its hatches for cold winter storms

interspersed with bright sunny days.

The Eastern Cape has scattered rainfall

throughout the year, with a beautifully

moderate climate and good beach

weather all year round. The

beaches of KwaZulu Natal

in the east of the country

are far enough north to

get hot in summer and

are most pleasant

to visit in the spring

and autumn.

Getting aroundSelf-drive is a popular way to travel. A 4WD is not always necessary. Flying between centres makes the huge distances more manageable. Domestic airlines include SAA, Airlink, Kulula and Comair.

CostsPrivate game lodges tend to be costly, with all-inclusive rates covering accommodation, meals, drinks, game drives and guided walks. There’s also an abundance of excellent guest houses, self-catering options, hotels and backpackers.

SafetyWhile South Africa has a reputation for crime, it’s unlikely that visitors will encounter any. Follow usual precautions like checking your route before setting off, keeping car doors locked, not fl aunting cameras and jewellery when walking in the city, and keeping handbags safe.

BooksRoad Tripping South Africa (Map Studio, February 2014) gives self-drive routes throughout South Africa, with recommended activities.

Recommended guidebooksSouth Africa (Rough Guides, 2012)South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland (Lonely Planet, 2012),First-Time Africa (Rough Guides, 2011)

Find out moreSouth African Tourism www.southafrica.net


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Strictly come dancing

MIC

HAE

L AN

D P

ATRI

CIA

FOG

DEN

/ G

ETTY

IMAG

ES

SOLVIN ZANKI / NATUREPL.COM

LocomotionAnimals have plenty of good reasons to get on the move. Finding food or a mate, defending their territory and

avoiding danger are among the most pressing. How they move depends on the specific problems raised by

their habitat, such as temperature, gravity, drag, inertia and other obstacles of physics. Nature has risen to the

challenge with a breathtaking variety of modifications and techniques – some of which are decidedly bizarre.

By Mike Unwin.

Mike Unwin is the author of 100 Bizarre Animals (Bradt), a fascinating compilation of often unbelievable facts about the world’s more obscure creatures, from which these examples are taken. Signed copies of the book are available from www.travelafricashop.com


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The wheel deal

Lily trotter

AFRI

PICS

.CO

M /

ALA

MY

MAD

AGAS

IKAR

A-VO

AKAJ

Y.O

RG

Sucker up


Wildfile


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THE STORY

THE CHALLENGE

The success of Lou Coetzer’s images of lions playing owes as much to foresight as it does to technical know-how. He explains.

Taken with a Nikon D800; Nikon 600mm f4.0 VR lens with 1.4 Converter; ISO 640, f8.0 at 1/4000 sec; EV - 1.3

In conjunction with Travel Africa, Lou Coetzer is running photography workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit

Lou CoetzerLou Coetzeris running is running is running photography workshops in workshops in workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For Oxford on March Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For 8 and 9, 2014. For 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit .coetzernature

In conjunction with Travel Africa, Lou Coetzeris running photography workshops in

, Lou Coetzer

photography workshops in photography workshops in workshops in workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit

workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For Oxford on March

details, visit

photography.com

8 and 9, 2014. For www.details, visit


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StrapPhotoschool

THE SOLUTION

Telephoto tricks When

working with long lenses (400mm

plus), ensure you are shooting in the mid-to-high thousandths of a second.

To do this, choose the highest ISO setting on your camera that still renders a great digital fi le. This should allow for fast enough shutter speeds. Your choice of ISO will depend on the camera model. Make sure you set it in advance: there is never time to rectify your settings during the action.

Keep it clean The background and foreground of a wildlife photograph are just as important as the subject. The difference between this becoming a world-class image or being binned is the fact I repositioned myself to get a better background.

Up your game When you arrive at a scene with lots of drama, take a few quick shots so that you can record it. Then relax and consider repositioning yourself to get a better background, and to make better use of the angle of ambient light. A simple decision like that just might bag you a wonderful photograph.

EXTRA

TIP

Nikon D4, 600mm f/4 VR plus 1.4 ConverterISO 800, f8 @ 1/4000sec EV -1.7

This shot was an award-winning entry in the Mammal Behaviour category at Veolia Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2013


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+256 772 712557+256 776 236699bookings@fl yuganda.comwww.fl yuganda.com

Daily fl ights to all Uganda’sNational Parks & same day

connections to the Serengeti

100%

Carbon Neutral

ISO 9001:2008

Certifi ed

She has made a successful career as an Interior Designer, an expert in African art, as organizer and hostess of exclusive Bush Trips, and as the author of the very successful “BUSH FRIENDLY TIPS for girls (and guys”), currently in its second edition. Lisa’s appreciation and extensive knowledge of African tribal art, craft and textiles has resulted in her developing an art gallery: The Home Gallery. It is the go-to address for African Art Collectors and Art Lovers from across the globe when visiting Kenya. She has curated African art collections for various businesses and corporations such as Standard Bank Dubai, The Embassy of the United States of America in Nairobi and the head quarters of Coca-Cola, East, West and Central Africa.

Lisa Christoffersen is a Third generation Tanzanian Born - Danish origin, who grew up on the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro. In

1974 she moved to Denmark, but at the age of 22 she packed up 22 suitcases and bought a one-way ticket to Kenya. Since that fateful return home Lisa has crossed the continent and explored its every avenue, from business to the African bush.

CHRISTOFFERSENLISA

+ 254 722 703 [email protected]

..Lisa’s featured Artists...

CHRIS DEI

ANTHONY RUSSELL

SIMONMURIITHI

ALEXANDRA SPYRATOS

Lisa is a designer of hand painted African inspired Pashmina shawls, items worn by celebrities including Cameron Diaz, Jane Seymour, Rachel Weiss, Jessica Simpson and others.

NEW WEBSITE SOON TO GO LIVE

CONTACTS


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http://www.madagascar-tour.com




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Like several other safari destinations, Zambia offers visitors diverse attractions and a great choice of facilities, many with specialist skills or locations. It is not surprising, therefore, that we are often asked to recommend itineraries or lodges. However these decisions can be very personal, and no one knows each business as well as the owners.

So to help you learn more about the services available in Zambia, we extended an open invitation to accommodation providers and tour operators to tell you, in their own words, what they have to offer you. The companies which responded have paid for the opportunity.


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KaomaLimulunga

Mongu

Kazungula

Livingstone

Victoria Falls

Lake Kariba

Chirundu

LUSAKA

Mwinilunga

Solwezi

Ndola

Kitwe


KAFUE NATIONAL PARKZambia’s largest park has recently begun to regain its reputation of 50 years ago, when it was the jewel in the country’s safari crown. Scale and variety are Kafue’s watchwords, with landscapes ranging from the wetlands of Busanga Plains in the north to the miombo woodland of the central districts and savannah of Nanzhila Plains to the South.

Game is not always as approachable as in South Luangwa, but all the key players are here, including huge buffalo herds and numerous lion prides, plus local specials such as cheetah and sable. Meanwhile the great Kafue River offers some fabulous exploration by boat.

LIUWA PLAIN With annual visitors coming only by the handful, this vast expanse of seasonally fl ooded grassland is one of Africa’s most remote and least known safari destinations. Those who make the trek, however, will fi nd a unique and genuine wilderness, carpeted in fl owers, alive with birds and home to the continent’s second largest wildebeest migration.

VICTORIA FALLS/LIVINGSTONEThis spectacular southwestern corner of Zambia has something for everybody. The 1.7km-wide cascade of Victoria Falls has been voted one of the world’s seven natural wonders. Upstream, nature lovers can enjoy hidden islands and abundant wildlife on the languid Zambezi; downstream, the turbulent gorges offer bungee jumping and whitewater rafting for thrill-seekers. Livingstone, synonymous with the great explorer, is steeped in both colonial history and local culture. With any number of places to stay, the visitor will fi nd the complete African experience.

LAKE KARIBAThis huge inland sea is Zambia’s biggest body of water and one of the world’s largest manmade lakes. Created by the rising waters of the Zambezi after the river was dammed in the 1950s, its tranquil vistas are crowned by the silhouettes of drowned trees and echo to the grunt of hippos. Today visitors can relax at lakeside resorts, fi sh for fi ghting tiger fi sh or cruise the wild shores in a houseboat in search of elephant and other game.

KASANKA / BANGWEULU Lake Bangweulu is far from Zambia’s main safari hubs but the surrounding wetlands are home to some true gems, with herds of black lechwe grazing to the watery horizon and rare shoebills lurking deep in the swamps. Kasanka National Park, a little to the south, hosts Africa’s largest mammal gathering – a six-million-strong roost of straw-coloured fruit bats – and is a top spot for the semi-aquatic sitatunga. This is not a mainstream safari, perhaps, but a real treat for serious wildlife afi cionados.

What is your number one Zambian destination? Every visitor has a favourite. Some return time and again to the big-hitters such as Luangwa, Kafue or Lower Zambezi. Others seek out more off-the-beaten-track destinations. Not that Zambia really has a beaten track. That’s the beauty of the country: something new to discover in every corner.


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Isoka

Mpika

MfuweChipata


Safari planner

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARKFew corners of Africa can beat the Lower Zambezi for sheer scenic splendour. Just across the water from Zimbabwe’s famous Mana Pools, this beautiful national park is laid out among the statuesque winterthorns between the rugged escarpment and the mighty Zambezi river. Canoe past great pods of hippos, track lions through the riverbank thickets, or simply relax in one of several gorgeous lodges, enjoying a sundowner, as the elephants rumble past to quench their thirst.

NORTHERN WATERFALLS ROUTEThe Victoria Falls are not Zambia’s only spectacular cascade. A number of impressive waterfalls tumble over the gorges and escarpments of northern Zambia, from Lumangwe Falls, said to be home to a great snake spirit, to Kalambo Falls, which tumbles 221m towards the shores of Lake Tanganyika and is the second highest in Africa. With dozens of waterfalls to enjoy, plus a rich culture and wild landscapes, this little-known region offers true adventures to the enterprising traveller.

NORTH LUANGWA / LUAMBE NATIONAL PARKSThere is more to the Luangwa Valley than just ‘South Park’. North Luangwa National Park offers perhaps Zambia’s most untamed big-game experience, where visitors can track lions on foot and follow great buffalo herds far from any road. Game is skittish here, a legacy of past poaching, but the sense of wilderness is that much greater and the reintroduction of black rhinos adds a unique attraction. Luambe, between North and South parks, offers a delightful stretch of the Luangwa that you will share only with the hippos.

MUTINONDO WILDERNESSWest of the Luangwa Valley, over the Muchinga Escarpment, lies a very different landscape, where great ‘whalebacks’ of granite loom out of the dense miombo woodland, and giant mushrooms grow beside tumbling streams. Mutinondo Wilderness offers an alluring back-to-nature retreat, where visitors can hike a network of trails and discover there is more to Zambia’s fauna and fl ora than just big game safaris.

SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARKCrescent ox-bows heaving with hippos; carmine bee-eaters erupting from their sandbank in a blur of rose-pink wings; the alarm whistle of puku as a leopard pads through the moonlit ebony grove: the sights and sounds of South Luangwa are among Africa’s most evocative. From swanky riverside lodge to rustic bush camp, Zambia’s best-known park offers visitors a safari experience that competes with any on the continent. Don’t miss the night drives or walking safaris.

LanguageEnglish is the offi cial language. There are seven main vernacular languages and over 60 other dialects.

Time zoneGMT+2

International dialling code+260

VisasVisas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Lusaka Airport and other points of entry. Single-/double-entry visas for most nationalities cost US$50/80 respectively.

When to visit Zambia’s dry season is May to November or December. The rains arrive last in the south of the country.

HealthNo immunisations are required by law for entry into Zambia, although it is wise to have up-to-date vaccinations against tetanus, polio, diphtheria and hepatitis A. Malaria occurs throughout Zambia, all year round, and prophylactic drugs are strongly recommended to all visitors.

MoneyThe unit of currency is the Kwacha (ZMW). Recent exchange rates were: UK£1=ZMW 8.89, US$1=ZMW 5.44 and €1=ZMW 7.43. Foreign currency (US dollars is best) can be changed into Kwacha at most banks. Visa and to a lesser extent MasterCard are accepted by many tourist hotels, and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.

SafetyZambia is generally regarded to be very safe, with malaria forming by far the greatest threat to life and limb. As with any foreign travel, always check for the latest updates at the Foreign and Commonwealth Offi ce (www.fco.gov.uk).

Getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Emirates (www.emirates.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) and South African Airways (www.fl ysaa.com) link London and Lusaka via Nairobi, Dubai, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.

Getting aroundOnce in Lusaka, internal fl ights can connect you to most major destinations in Zambia. Local buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services.

BooksZambia (Bradt, 5th ed, 2011) by Chris McIntyre is a detailed, comprehensive guide to Zambia and its national parks.

Find out moreZambia National Tourist Board (www.zambiatourism.com)

* The information and views expressed on the following pages of the Zambia Safari Planner are those of the participating companies, and do not necessarily refl ect the opinions of Gecko Publishing Ltd.


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http://www.ethiopianairlines.com

http://www.flysaa.com

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http://www.zambiatourism.com




STANLEY SAFARI LODGE LIVINGSTONESet on a hill bordering the

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park

and overlooking unspoilt bush,

Stanley Safari Lodge is only

3km from Victoria Falls. The

views of the mighty Zambezi are

splendid, especially at sunset,

with the spray of the falls in the

distance. Open all year, we have

ten individually designed suites

and cottages.

LUANGWA SAFARI HOUSESOUTH LUANGWAThis impressive private

house for up to eight guests

sits gracefully on the edge of

a lagoon system frequented

by large herds of elephants,

impalas and giraff es. Countless

other species use the lagoon

as a source of water and food

throughout the year. It’s

magnifi cently set off by the

backdrop of the Chindeni Hills.

TENA TENASOUTH LUANGWASituated in the exclusive Nsefu

Sector, this six-tented bush

camp nestles on a double-tiered

river bank under a magnifi cent

grove of mahogany trees. Each

tent enjoys river views. The

camp is an authentic, seasonal

home, with spacious but

cosy rooms. Being small and

remote, we have wonderful

wildlife sightings to ourselves.

May-Oct.

LUANGWA RIVER CAMPSOUTH LUANGWAThis luxurious ten-bed camp is

situated opposite the game-rich

Luangwa Wafwa in the Upper

Lupande. Unlike anything else in

the Luangwa Valley, it combines

all the creature comforts of a

fi ve-star lodge with the intimacy,

tailored activities and fl exible

mealtimes you can expect from a

bush camp. Open Jan-Nov.

NKWALI CAMPSOUTH LUANGWANkwali Camp overlooks the

Luangwa River in superb game

viewing country, with beautiful

ebony woodlands and open grass

plains. There is accommodation

for 12 guests in cool and

spacious en-suite chalets made

of thatch and woven bamboo,

with excellent views of the

river. Elephants often cross the

Luangwa, seen from the bar, or

come to the waterhole near the

thatched dining room. Open all

year.

NSEFUSOUTH LUANGWANsefu was Zambia’s fi rst

photographic safari camp.

Situated in the heart of the

undeveloped Nsefu sector of

South Luangwa National Park, it

off ers remoteness and seclusion.

Each room has a clear view of the

river. The bar, tucked in beside

a huge extinct termite mound,

overlooks a waterhole that is

popular with game, especially

leopard. Open Jan - March and

May - Oct.

ROBIN’S HOUSESOUTH LUANGWAThis private luxury house on the

banks of the Luangwa River is

ideal for families, honeymooners

and guests looking for privacy. It

has great views of the river and

the animals that come to drink.

A grove of mahogany and ebony

trees shade the front of the house

and provide a perfect lunch site.

There are two en-suite bedrooms,

a main area and a private chef,

valet and guide. Open all year.

LUANGWA BUSH CAMPINGSOUTH LUANGWAThis is an exclusive experience:

walking with the best of guides,

dipping deeper into the bush

from the fi xed camps by camping

out for a couple of nights, dinner

and stories around the fi re, simple

but delicious food. It’s simple

camping, with a touch of comfort.

The walking is in one of the most

lagoon-rich areas of the Luangwa

and the game is superb.

ROBIN POPE SAFARIS’ MOBILE WALKING SAFARISSOUTH LUANGWAThis has long been known as

the best wilderness experience

of the South Luangwa. You’ll

visit remote terrain and varied

habitats, and may well see rare

species. From ants to buff alo,

a bird’s nest to tracking a lion,

you will learn the many facets

of the bush. Nights are spent in

a comfortable, fully equipped

mobile camp. Jun-Oct.

COSTS: Per person per night (including Park costs), from:

including drinks and some activities

adults and 1 child

INFORMATION:

ROBIN POPE SAFARISVICTORIA FALLS AND SOUTH LUANGWA

goal: to give our guests an amazing African safari


WorldMags.net

http://www.robinpopesafaris.net




Safari Planner


with all transfers organised.

Small boat cruises, guided

birding, fi shing, island picnics

and guided town and market

tours can be arranged. Our local

staff (many of whom come from

the village where we are the only

employer) also take guests around

the village. They are proud to

show the Zambian way of life.

These walks fund the building of

the local pre-school.

Everyone coming to southern

Africa has to see Victoria Falls,

which is just 40 minutes away.

There is also an amazing variety of

activities on off er in Livingstone,

from helicopter fl ights to

whitewater rafting down the

world’s most exciting rapids, or

Our guests love the contrast of

arriving at Waterberry Lodge,

with its green lawns, after a

wildlife safari. It’s also a fantastic

place to unwind after a long

international fl ight. Just relax and

enjoy the view.

There are seven thatched

cottage rooms around the lawns, a

swimming pool, a central dining

area and an upstairs viewing

lounge. Hippos often come to

graze our lawns and swim in our

private dams.

Our wonderful local staff

include great chefs, guides and

household staff who are really

happy to look after you and

to share stories of life in rural

Zambia.

The Farmhouse is a spectacular

colonial style house, with a large,

shady veranda overlooking an

amazing infi nity pool that appears

to fl ow directly into the Zambezi.

The house has all the comforts

of home and more – including

a private chef, housekeepers,

gardeners and groundsmen. You’ll

be waited on hand and foot, with

activities all organised for you. It’s

absolutely perfect for families and

groups of friends.

When you arrive at

Waterberry Lodge or The

Farmhouse you’re briefed on

what you can do there, and also

what else you might like to do

around Livingstone. Make an

action plan and it gets booked,

swimming in the Devil’s Pool at

the top of the Falls.

We are also 30 minutes from

Livingstone and the international

airport, and within easy reach

of neighbouring Botswana,

Zimbabwe and Namibia.

COSTS: From US$295 per person per night for full board accommodation, airport transfers and a sunset cruise; US$157.50 per child aged 12 or under sharing a room

INFORMATION:www.riverfarmhouse.comwww.waterberrylodge.comreservations@waterberrylodge.com

WATERBERRY LODGE AND THE RIVER FARMHOUSEZAMBEZI

Waterberry Lodge is set in wonderful gardens and has a breathtaking location on the banks of the Zambezi. It’s perfectly peaceful and quiet, well away from the noise and bustle of Livingstone, with

just sounds of birds, animals and the river to enjoy.


WorldMags.net

http://www.riverfarmhouse.com

http://www.waterberrylodge.com





SAFARI PAR EXCELLENCE LIVINGSTONE

We are an adventure activity company based

on the banks of the mighty Zambezi, a few kilometres upriver from Victoria Falls. We also offer accommodation in the Livingstone area.

their own magnifi cent view

of the Zambezi River from a

comfortably furnished veranda.

Decorated with rich, classical

fabrics, colourful kelims, leather

and cotton percale linen they

take luxury to the limits in the

Zambezi Valley. Our small yet

dedicated team will make you

feel at home from the moment

you arrive, whether you are out

on safari or in camp enjoying a

massage.

Land and water based

activities include game viewing,

canoe safaris, angling and a

variety of professional safari

workshops.

INFORMATION:[email protected]

Baines’ River Camp is a luxurious,

colonial style lodge with solid

structures as opposed to tents.

Our eight Explorer Suites and

the Baines’ Cottage command

SafPar off ers a little bit of

everything to suit all tastes and

budgets, from campsites to

5-star luxury. We also have a

huge variety of activities to off er,

anything from the adrenaline-

fuelled White Water Rafting (the

best one-day rafting in the world)

on the mighty Zambezi through

to a relaxing sunset cruise.

Our lodges are all in stunning

locations on the banks of the

BAINES’ RIVER CAMPLOWER ZAMBEZI

Baines’ River Camp is situated in the Lower Zambezi Valley

in Zambia’s Southern Province. Located within the eastern part of the Chiawa Game Management Area, on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, the camp boasts magnifi cent views across the broad expanse of this river, almost a kilometre wide at times, to the Unesco World Heritage site of Mana Pools in neighbouring Zimbabwe.

river. Zambezi Waterfront is

designed to appeal to the young,

adventurous traveller and of

course the young at heart! David

Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa

and Thorntree River Lodge are

designed for those wanting a bit

more luxury.

All of the lodges have river-

facing rooms and are based in

or very near Mosi-Oa-Tunya

National Park, so guests can do

some exciting game viewing.

Along with our own fl eet of

vehicles, including buses and 4x4

game-drive vehicles, we own and

operate the following activities:

White Water Rafting, Sunset

Cruises, Game Drives, Canoeing,

Victoria Falls Tours, Cultural

Tours, Elephant Back Safaris and

Lion Encounters.

With our extensive portfolio we

are a one-stop-shop to make both

the booking process and your stay

as smooth and easy as possible.



WorldMags.net

http://www.bainesrivercamp.com



http://www.safpar.com




Safari Planner


THORNTREE RIVER LODGEOur lodge, the Home of the

Elephants, off ers intimate,

personalised service in a quiet

location right on the Zambezi

river. Each cottage has its own

veranda with river views.

Wildlife such as elephants,

hippos and plains game visit the

lodge on regular basis to graze.

There are two interactive

animal attractions within

walking distance of the lodge,

the Elephant Boma and the Lion

Boma.

COSTS:David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa from US$222 per person per night, bed and breakfast; Lady Livingstone from US$70 per person including park fees, snacks and drinks; Thorntree River Lodge from US$350 including meals and drinks

INFORMATION: www.thedavidlivingstone.comlodge@dlslandspa.comwww.thorntreeriverlodge.com

DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI LODGE & SPA The David Livingstone has a

fantastic location on the Zambezi,

5km from Victoria Falls.

The lodge is unique in

structure, aesthetics & décor.

Our spacious bedrooms have

balconies overlooking the

Zambezi and our suites have

private jacuzzis. Our guests enjoy

highly personalised service.

We have a world-class, award-

winning spa on site.

LADY LIVINGSTONE RIVER CRUISER This upmarket, fi ve-star vessel

off ers river cruises with a

marimba band, a bar for local

wine, spirits and beverages and a

three-course snack menu.

We can also off er a

personalised historical

commentary, orientation and

explanation of animals and

birdlife by experienced and

attentive guides. The boat has

quality furnishings and facilities,

with three deck levels plus a quiet

open area at the front.

Our accommodation is among

the most luxurious in Zambia and

our location is remote and wild.

The camp takes its name from

Zambezi and the many ana trees

or winter thorns (Faidherbia

albida) that surround us. These

winter thorns drop yellow pods

which attract a wide variety of

animals which wander freely

within the camp. They include

elephants, which are always a

welcome sight.

Our game viewing deck gives

you the best view possible of the

wildlife which visits the river and

the fl ood plain. Raised wooden

walkways connect the deck to the

dining area and our generously

spaced, luxuriously appointed

tents.

Each of the tents has an indoor

and outdoor bathroom, a spacious

sitting area, two teak double beds

placed within one well-designed

mosquito net, sliding glass doors

opening onto a private deck

with a plunge pool and stunning

views. Our tents have 24-hour

battery power and plentiful hot

and cold fi ltered water.

In addition to the usual

amenities, we have a large

swimming pool for guests to cool

off , lounge and relax, enjoying

the local climate after the day’s

excursions. As a fi nal touch,

a guest favourite, our fi re-pit,

provides the perfect opportunity

to absorb the local sounds and

gaze at the stars in the crystal

clear expanse of the night sky.

Our game viewing activities

take place both on the water by

boat, and on the land by four-

wheel drive vehicles.

COSTS:US$650-US$850 per person per night all inclusive; special rates are available at certain times of year


ANABEZI LUXURY TENTED CAMP LOWER ZAMBEZI

Anabezi is located on the banks of the Zambezi River at the lower end of the Lower Zambezi National Park. We have 11 luxurious, spacious tents on raised timber platforms. These are generously

spaced along the Zambezi riverbank at the edge of a ridge providing magnifi cent views of both the Zambezi River and Mushika River fl ood plain. Year-round grazing ensures spectacular wildlife-watching from the comfort of your tent!

DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI LODGE & SPA, LADY LIVINGSTONE AND THORNTREE RIVER LODGEZAMBEZI

Situated on the Zambezi River, upstream from the spectacular Victoria Falls, we offer a luxury safari lodge and spa, David Livingstone, a triple-decker river cruiser, Lady Livingstone, and, in Mosi-oa-

Tunya National Park, an intimate lodge, Thorntree.


WorldMags.net

http://www.thedavidlivingstone.com


http://www.thorntreeriverlodge.com

http://www.anabezi.com





Our lodge, where luxury meets

the wild, is an award winning

destination that provides

fi ve-star comfort while still

allowing you to experience the

sights and sounds of Africa. We

pride ourselves in creating your

perfect personalised holiday,

tailoring your stay to make it an

unforgettable experience.

The lodge is spacious but

intimate and off ers the ultimate

in luxury and cuisine. It is

designed to let nature play a

ROYAL ZAMBEZI LODGE LOWER ZAMBEZI

Royal Zambezi Lodge has over three kilometres of river frontage

on the banks of the Zambezi, on the edge of the Lower Zambezi National Park, opposite the famous Mana Pools Reserve.

CHIAWA CAMP AND OLD MONDOROLOWER ZAMBEZI

Our camps are located in the heart of the Lower Zambezi

National Park, in prime game viewing areas with superb views and wildlife aplenty.

Chiawa is a winner of the Safari

Award for Best Camp in Africa and

Best Guiding Team in Africa. Both

Chiawa and Old Mondoro were

THE RIVER CLUBLOWER ZAMBEZI

The River Club overlooks a sweeping bend of the

Zambezi River, 26 km upstream from Victoria Falls. It combines Edwardian grace and charm with 21st century facilities and has superb river views. This is the place that Karen Blixen would have chosen if she had ever visited Victoria Falls.

top five finalists for Best Camp in

Southern Africa in 2011.

Both camps are owned and

operated by the Cumings family,

who pioneered safaris in the Lower

Zambezi. The conservation ethos

shared by the owners, guides and

staff ensures one of Africa’s top safari

experiences.

COSTS:US$500-US$1000 per person per night

INFORMATION:www.chiawa.com

Our lodge is for the discerning

traveller who wishes to see the

best of Africa, uncovering stories

and legends of the greatest

continent in the world.

Our international chef spoils

our guests with her tantalising

array of dishes. A three day stay is

encouraged.

INFORMATION:www.theriverclubzambia.comwww.africanfusiontravel.comcontact@africanfusiontravel.com

leading role. There is lots of space

for all to enjoy a unique, magical

stay.

Our Presidential Suites are

a fabulously romantic setting

for honeymoon couples, with

private plunge pools, copper

bath tubs and spacious lounges

and shady verandas overlooking

the river. While our customised

family suite works perfectly for

family holidays.

The varied selection of

activities is another great reason

to visit Royal – from spotting

lions and leopards on game

drives, to canoeing peacefully

down channels of the Zambezi, to

getting up close with nature on

bush walks.

Or you can simply choose to

do nothing at all except enjoy The

Royal Bush Spa or watch the vast

array of animals around the lodge.

There is something for everyone!

It is quick and easy to get

to Royal once in Zambia. Our

airstrip is just fi ve minutes from

the lodge, and we can organise

charters for you with Royal Air

Charters.



WorldMags.net

http://www.chiawa.com

http://www.theriverclubzambia.com

http://www.africanfusiontravel.com


http://www.royalzambezilodge.com





Safari Planner


Zambia has some of the last great

wilderness areas. South Luangwa

is known for its lions, leopards

and wild dogs as well as the

highest concentration of hippos

in Africa, all of which you can see

on foot and by open 4x4 vehicle.

We operate six camps in

diff erent areas of the South

Luangwa National Park. Luwi and

Nsolo are on the dry sand Luwi

two extravagant suites with butler

service and private plunge pools

on the banks of the Chongwe

River. Guests are aff orded the

unforgettable sight of elephants

as they peacefully wander through

the camp on an almost daily basis.

Chongwe River House is 1km

upstream on a private stretch of

the Chongwe River and Kasaka

River Lodge overlooks the mighty

Zambezi River.

We operate four camps in

diff erent areas of the Lower

Zambezi National Park.

Chongwe River Camp

lies on the confl uence of the

Chongwe and Zambezi Rivers,

opposite Mana Pools. Its eight

comfortable en-suite tents have

wonderful views. There are also

NORMAN CARR SAFARIS SOUTH LUANGWA

Norman Carr was the pioneer of walking safaris and

conservation through tourism. Today we continue his legacy and pride ourselves on having some of the best guides in the world to take you on an unforgettable safari adventure.

CHONGWE SAFARISLOWER ZAMBEZI

Chongwe Safaris is one of the oldest and most

reputable companies in the Lower Zambezi, established in 1996. Sister company to Norman Carr Safaris, Chongwe Safaris is proud to offer an award-winning formula of great service in one of the best locations in the Lower Zambezi.

River with nearby waterholes.

Kakuli, Mchenja and Chinzombo

are located right on the Luangwa

River with stunning views. Our

main camp, Kapani, is on the

Kapani Lagoon which attracts

elephants, hippos and giraff e at

all times of the year.

The ‘wildly luxurious’

Chinzombo Camp, our newest

addition, has been hailed as the

best camp in Zambia.

We partner with our sister

company, Chongwe Safaris in

the Lower Zambezi. A safari

with both of us is a journey,

an adventure and a chance to

create your own stories of your

encounters in the bush, switch

off from the world, be part of

our family for a time, feel the

ground beneath your feet and

the sounds of the animal calls in

the distance.

COSTS:US$295-US$950 per person per night, including accommodation, four meals a day, standard bar drinks, laundry, Mfuwe airport transfers and game viewing activities


Tsika Island is situated in the

middle of the Zambezi, 35km

upstream of Chongwe River

Camp. The island has three,

unassuming chalets and is

completely private and exclusive

to Chongwe guests.

We off er an unmatched variety

of activities including day and

night drives, boat cruises, walking

safaris or our fl agship experience,

canoeing, which off ers you the

opportunity to view wildlife from

a more natural perspective.

COSTS:US$295-US$950 per person per night, including meals, drinks, laundry, Royal airport transfers and activities



WorldMags.net

http://www.normancarrsafaris.com


http://www.chongwe.com





lounge/dining area overlook the

game-rich fl ood plain. The chalets

have been built on raised wooden

platforms, and they are tastefully

decorated with African style and

charm. Additionally, there are two

luxury suites, with an upstairs

viewing verandah.

ISLAND BUSH CAMPIsland Bush Camp, the base for

our daily walking safaris, is in the

KAFUNTA RIVER LODGESituated near Mfuwe, the central

location of our classic safari lodge

allows us to explore vast areas of

the wildlife-rich South Luangwa

National Park, where you can

enjoy daily game viewing in open

vehicles as well as night drives.

Each of our eight luxury

private chalets and the main

cultural visit to Nakatindi village.

Children of all ages are welcome

in the two family houses.

SANCTUARY PUKU RIDGE CAMPSOUTH LUANGWALocation, location, location –

Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp off ers

guests an authentic tented safari

experience in South Luangwa

National Park, one of Zambia’s

best areas for game viewing and

SANCTUARY SUSSI & CHUMALIVINGSTONESanctuary Sussi and Chuma is a

collection of air-conditioned tree

houses and two family houses, on

a quiet bend of the magnifi cent

Zambezi River. Our rates cover

six diff erent activities, including a

SANCTUARY RETREATS LIVINGSTONE & SOUTH LUANGWA

The Sanctuary Retreats portfolio of luxury safari

lodges bring the boutique experience to guests with the added promise of authenticity. Located in some of the most stunning locations, each property is completely individual in its design and operated around the philosophy of “Luxury, naturally”.

KAFUNTA SAFARIS SOUTH LUANGWA

Kafunta Safaris has been owner-run since 1998. We make

your dream safari come true. With unforgettable game viewing moments and personalised hosting in our lodge and bush camp, we bring you the essence of Africa. Zambia has been our home for 20 years – let us share our passion for Africa with you.

bird spotting. Endemic species

found here include Thornicroft’s

giraff e and Crawshay’s zebra.

SANCTUARY CHICHELE PRESIDENTIAL LODGESOUTH LUANGWAThis historic property was

originally built for Kenneth

Kaunda, the former Zambian

president, as his private retreat in

the 1970s. It’s an air-conditioned

lodge with the option of an

interconnecting room, perfect

for families. We have a dedicated

children’s programmme for kids

of all ages.

COSTS:Our rates include meals, drinks, park fees, laundry and activities


far south of the park, a two-hour

drive from the Lodge, through

remote wilderness. It’s built from

natural, locally sourced materials.

Its chalets are set along the banks

of the Luangwa River, on stilts

that ensure safety from wild

animals and provide excellent

views of the river.

The camp off ers comfort in a

rustic setting. Each chalet has an

en suite bathroom, with running

water, fl ushing toilets and hot

bucket showers.

Fancy combining a stay at both

the Lodge and the Camp? Well,

you can - discount rates apply for

bookings of fi ve nights or more.

INFORMATION:www.luangwa.com/our-camps/[email protected]


WorldMags.net


http://www.luangwa.com/our-camps/kafunta-river-lodge

http://www.luangwa.com/our-camps/kafunta-river-lodge




Safari Planner


Mwamba has just four chalets

made of reed and thatch with

open air bathrooms. Wildlife

roams freely through the camp.

We also off er adventurous

options such as spending the

night on a platform near the

river or in the plains, or going

fl y camping in a particularly

remote area of the park.

COSTS:From US$605 per person per nightINFORMATION:[email protected]

Kaingo Camp is on the bank

of the Luangwa River, with

six chalets overlooking the

river, while our little bush

camp Mwamba is set on the

meandering curve of the

Mwamba River. With hides

and some of the best guides

in southern Africa, Shenton

Safaris is the destination

of choice for professional

and amateur wildlife

photographers.

What we are most famous

for is our unique network

of photographic hides. Our

Hippo Hide has been used by

the BBC, National Geographic

and Discovery Channel. In

late August we set up our

Carmine Bee-Eater Hide which

off ers amazing photographic

opportunities, and our Last

Waterhole hide at Mwamba

becomes very active with

thirsty animals coming to drink

at the last available water in the

area.

We off er visits to the hides,

game drives and bush walks on

a daily basis.

Guests at Kaingo can enjoy

stunning river views from their

decks overhanging the river,

watching animals come down

to drink. More rustic and bushy,

SHENTON SAFARIS – KAINGO CAMP AND MWAMBA BUSH CAMPSOUTH LUANGWA

Our camps are located in the northern part of the South Luangwa National Park, in the prime game viewing area, far from all the other camps, with the territories of three large lion prides and a dozen leopards nearby.


WorldMags.net

http://www.kaingo.com





lagoons. Here, you can have

great bushwalks with superb

game-viewing all to yourself.

Each camp has a unique

design and off ers high levels of

comfort and cuisine. We place

great emphasis on our guests

enjoying the best possible bush

experience and employ some of

Africa’s most knowledgeable and

experienced wildlife guides.

South Luangwa is the home

Mfuwe Lodge, our fl agship

property, is situated between

two oxbow lagoons, about

three kilometres from the park

entrance and convenient for

Mfuwe airport.

Our six small, intimate

seasonal bush camps are located

in the more remote south of

the park overlooking either the

main Luangwa River or sited

along tributary rivers and oxbow

Our location, 40km from the

main park gates, in an abundant

and pristine wildlife area, provides

an exclusive and authentic safari

experience, with exciting game

viewing from the doorstep.

Named due to the high density

of lions in the area, we also have

excellent leopard sightings and

there are plenty of other animals in

the vicinity, including wildebeest.

Our experienced guides off er

walks and game drives.

THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY SOUTH LUANGWA

Our properties can all be found in superb locations within

South Luangwa National Park, one of Africa’s premier wildlife sanctuaries, with beautiful scenery, varied habitats and high concentrations of wildlife.

LION CAMP SOUTH LUANGWA

Located deep inside South Luangwa National Park,

Lion Camp is situated on an oxbow lagoon, overlooking an open plain which teems with game. By night, the plain is a hunting ground for lions.

The camp is independent and

stylish, with personalised service

and attention to detail. We have

just nine canvas and thatch chalets

accommodating a maximum of

18 guests. Built on raised wooden

platforms, they are linked to each

other and the main area by a raised

wooden boardwalk. Each chalet

has either a four poster king-size

double bed or twin beds, and a

walk-in mosquito net. They are all

en suite with a shower and toilet,

and have private decks overlooking

the open plain in front.

Heart-pounding adventure and

a soul soothing escape. Thrilling

gameviewing in a spectacular

natural environment. Exhilarating

and conservative.It’s all part of the

concept of balance and harmony at

Lion Camp.

Due to accessibility we are

only open during the peak game

of the walking safari and we

off er ample opportunity to

explore pristine areas and view

big game on foot. As our motto

says, “From a vehicle you see

Africa. On foot you feel, hear

and smell Africa”.

South Luangwa is also

rightly famous as being one

of the very best places to see

leopards. All our camps off er

morning, afternoon and

night drives in open 4x4 drive

vehicles, to watch, and hopefully

photograph, these and other

predators in action.

COSTS: US$400-$600 per person per night


viewing months, from 1 June to

31 October.

COSTS:We offer affordable rates.



WorldMags.net

http://www.bushcampcompany.com


http://www.lioncamp.com




Safari Planner


guide you on foot from camp

to camp, following the animal

footpaths.

On the clear Mwaleshi

stream, the honey pot of the

North Luangwa National Park,

is Mwaleshi Camp, a beautiful,

intimate seasonal retreat

with just 4 chalets sleeping a

maximum of 8 guests.

We are walking safari

specialists, with exceptional

Within the South Luangwa

National Park, on the west

bank of the Luangwa River, are

Tafi ka’s satellite camps, Chikoko

Trails (Chikoko Tree Camp and

Crocodile Camp), which are

only accessible on foot, with just

3 chalets per camp sleeping a

maximum of 6 guests. We can

REMOTE AFRICA SAFARISNORTH AND SOUTH LUANGWA

With 30 years of experience, we are a family-run operation

and the only local company with camps in both the North and South Luangwa National Parks. Our fl agship camp, Tafi ka Camp, overlooks a sweeping bend of the Luangwa River on the remote northern boundary of the South Luangwa National Park.

Luangwa National Park and

their experience allows them to

anticipate behaviour ahead of

time so as to position their guests

in the best place to get the most

from each sighting. They will

bring the park to life for you and

their encyclopedic knowledge

will astound you.

In camp, there are no set

meals or meal times. Our guests

can order what they’d like to eat,

Jess, Ade and Paolo are

always on hand to make sure

that your whole Zambian

experience is a fantastic one.

Their personal attention to

detail is one of the reasons

that guests return to this

exceptionally good value

safari camp.

Our safari guides have

an incredible feel for

the wildlife of the South

FLATDOGS CAMP SOUTH LUANGWA

Situated on the banks of the Luangwa

River looking right into the national park, Flatdogs has earned a great reputation with its unique style, friendly team and exceptional safari guides.

when they’d like to eat it. There’s

plenty to enjoy on our bistro-style

à la carte menu and daily specials.

As much as possible is made

from scratch, such as our our

bread, nachos, fi ery chilli sauce

and tangy pawpaw chutney.

Our staff , who are nearly all

from the local area, are always

delighted to chat about life in

rural Zambia or to discuss the

latest football scores!

COSTS:US$220-US$440 per person per night, including all meals, park fees and safari activities

INFORMATION:www.fl atdogscamp.cominfo@fl atdogscamp.com

guides. Uniquely, we also off er

microlighting and mountain

biking at Tafi ka.

Our game drive vehicles

each take a maximum of four

guests in two rows. We tailor

our activities to our guests’

requirements. Private guiding

with sole use of a vehicle can be

pre-booked if required. We also

operate our own C210 plane for

our guests’ convenience.

COSTS:Rates per person per night:

We offer a discount for stays of seven nights or more.

INFORMATION:www.remoteafrica.com [email protected]


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http://www.remoteafrica.com




woodland. This is an enchanting

spot for birdwatching, with

Pel’s fi shing owls present. Kafue

has more than 160 species of

mammals, including 21 antelope

species and a population of wild

dogs.

Our highly experienced guide,

Stephen Banda, specialises in

walking safaris and night drives.

A few miles away from

Konkamoya is the unforgettable

Konkamoya in the Nianja

language means ‘Follow the

wind.’

Our lodge has just four

luxurious safari tents that can

host up to eight guests, off ering

a close encounter with the true

wilderness of Kafue National

Park. The lodge is secluded,

peaceful and unfenced.

Itezhi Tezhi Lake covers

an area of 370 square km and

is surrounded by mopane

At Thornicroft you can explore

the ultimate destination for lions

and leopards on unforgettable

game drives with expert guides.

We have nine charming

en-suite chalets with river views.

Each can easily accommodate two

adults and a child.

The chalets are equipped with

double or twin beds draped with

mosquito nets. We have paid

special attention to the mattresses

THORNICROFT LODGE SOUTH LUANGWA

Thornicroft is a small intimate bush-style lodge in a

beautiful location on the banks of the Luangwa River, home to wallowing hippos and bathing elephants. We are less than ten minutes from the best wildlife-watching areas in the park.

KONKAMOYA LODGEKAFUE

Konkamoya is a boutique lodge in a beautiful

location on the Itezhi Tezhi lakeshore in Kafue National Park, a fi ve-hour drive from Victoria Falls and the capital, Lusaka.

and linen, but you will also

appreciate the private bathroom

(with a lovely hot walk-in shower),

as well as the verandah and the

huge windows with views that

might mean you’re on 24-hour

safari if you choose not to drop

your blinds!

There are also eight permanent

two-person dome tents with

shared bathroom facilities near

the lagoon that off er an excellent

opportunity to safari on a budget.

Enjoy morning, afternoon and

night safaris in our open 4x4s,

led by qualifi ed guides with an

exceptional in- depth knowledge

of the park.

Thornicroft is classically

simple, with scrumptious

food, and is perfect for couples,

families or groups looking for an

authentic safari experience in a

small lodge, at an aff ordable price.

experience of the Elephant

Orphanage Project.

The camp runs on solar

power, Wi-Fi is free and the staff

is local, although the owner

brings an unexpected Italian

touch, especially in the kitchen.

We can assist with safari

planning in the Kafue National

Park and transfers from or to

Livingstone, Lusaka, Ngoma

airstrip and the other lodges.

COSTS:US$350 per person per night; no single supplement; family rates available

INFORMATION:[email protected]@konkamoya.com

COSTS:From US$195 per person per night for food, game drives and accommodation in a river-view chalet; US$150 per person per night for food, game drives and accommodation in a tent



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Safari Planner


WILDERNESS SAFARISZAMBEZI AND KAFUE

Wilderness Safaris is an ecotourism company

specialising in memorable wildlife experiences in some of the most remote and pristine areas in Africa. We are fi ercely committed to protecting Africa’s precious natural and cultural resources while sharing tourism’s benefi ts with its people.

KAFUE CAMPS & SAFARIS –MAYUKUYUKU BUSH CAMPKAFUE

Open all year, Mayukuyuku has a stunning location on the

Kafue River with rapids nearby. We have spectacular views over an island which is an Ila Chief Burial Ground.

Busanga Plains within the Kafue

National Park, one of the largest

in Africa.

Owing to its diverse

habitats, the Busanga Plains is

known to be perhaps the prime

wildlife-viewing destination

in the country. Here guests are

blessed with sightings of our

famous tree-climbing lions and

are also aff orded the amazing

opportunity of spotting game

In Zambia, we operate exciting

bush camps and lodges in Kafue

National Park and in the Victoria

Falls area.

Experiencing both areas gives

a fantastic all-round perspective

on the country’s fascinating

landscape and wildlife.

Shumba Camp and Busanga

Camp are located on the vast

Kafue, being highveld, has

species not seen in the busier

lowveld parks such as South

Luangwa and Lower Zambezi.

Unusually, we have both

plains game and thicket dwelling

game in the vicinity, and can

see zebras, reedbucks, cheetahs,

oribi, leopards, elephants, kudus,

bushbucks and duikers to name

but a few.

We stay open in January,

Our guests, who leave superb Trip

Advisor reviews and often keep

in touch on Facebook, regularly

comment on our fabulous guides

and staff . Our camp managers and

guides eat with our guests and are

always ready to discuss wildlife

and all things Zambian. This is a

99% Zambian-run operation.

We still have the luxury of

seldom seeing any other vehicles

on any game drives.

from a hot air balloon.

Our luxurious Toka Leya

Camp and The River Club are in

the Victoria Falls area.

They both overlook the

impressive Zambezi River. Not

only is the imposing and famous

Victoria Falls a must-see, but

thrilling adrenaline activities

and game viewing in the area

makes for a fantastic launch or

departure point to any safari.

COSTS:Per person per night, from:

Busanga Bush Camp US$799

Rates include meals, drinks, activities, laundry and park fees


February and March when

many other camps in Zambia are

closed. Wild dog sightings can

be excellent! Lions are always

plentiful, too .

In the Kafue we work together

not against each other. We can

link with any other camps in the

park. You will traverse the park by

vehicle – very exciting! Just bear

in mind the park is huge –top to

bottom can be four days’ drive.

COSTS:

including park fees, activities, full board en-suite tented accommodation, laundry; no single supplement



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Whatever your individual

interests and requirements, Safari

Consultants has the expertise

and desire to work with you

to build your perfect Zambia

safari itinerary. We believe that

planning and booking a specialist

safari holiday should be a fun and

energising experience. We have

always been a small company

off ering a very personal and

professional service, and we

genuinely care about the success of

every holiday we arrange.

We also off er you peace of

mind. Every booking is covered by

a full fi nancial guarantee through

our ATOL licence (No. 3783) and

ABTOT membership (No. 5246).

We are members of AITO (The

Association of Independent Tour

Operators) and feedback from our

clients can be seen on their website.

If you are considering a safari

in Zambia then we would love to

hear from you!

INFORMATION:[email protected]+44 (0)1787 888590

Aside from the majestic Victoria

Falls, Zambia is perhaps best

known for its walking safaris, and

there is certainly nowhere else

in Africa where so many good

walking options exist.

But which camp, company or

guide will be best for you?

Would you prefer a gentle

introduction to a walking safari,

with walking combined with

game drives and luxurious

accommodation, or are you an

experienced African adventurer

seeking an exclusive wilderness

and walking experience?

Do you enjoy a social

atmosphere in the evenings,

meeting other guests, or are you

seeking the solitude of the bush,

more content with the sound of

hippos snorting and the clash of

buff alo horns in the darkness?

We know the diff erences

between the areas in which

diff erent companies operate,

which operators off er the best

value for money, and who are the

really top safari guides that can

enhance your safari experience

from ‘good’ to ‘amazing’.

camping site with a few basic

amenities, and we haven’t

forgotten our roots. We still

provide a fabulous (and much

improved and upgraded)

camping location for those

wanting to get close to nature.

For self-drive travellers, Pioneer

Camp provides the perfect

stopover, where you can chat

about routes and experiences

with fellow self-drivers whilst

enjoying our comfortable

facilities and surroundings.

We also organise mobile

safaris, which take you well off

the beaten trail. We escort people

all over the country, on tailor-

made or suggested itineraries.

We have covered Zambia in depth

and we know it well.

COSTS:Miombo chalets US$155 per person per night, including return airport transfers, dinner, bed and breakfast


Within easy reach of Lusaka,

which is 14km away, we are the

best option for those who wish

to stay near the airport or the

capital yet still feel as though they

are on safari.

We are the Gateway to

Zambia, the place where you

should begin or fi nish your safari.

Our lodge is built and

maintained to a very good

standard and our rates are

extremely reasonable.

Our eight Miombo chalets,

with private bathrooms

and terraces, off er a high

level of comfort, privacy and

beautiful views of the Zambian

countryside.

At the centre of Pioneer is an

open thatched bar/restaurant

or chitenge, open from 7am to

11pm each day. It’s the place to

exchange tales of adventure with

your fellow travellers. Breakfast,

lunch and dinner are served here.

Pioneer is well known for the

candlelit braai meals served in the

evenings – in particular our tasty

500g T-bones!

Pioneer was originally just a

PIONEER LODGE AND CAMP LUSAKA AND ZAMBIA-WIDE

Pioneer Lodge and Camp is the most relaxing property in the Lusaka area. We offer 14 thatched chalets, ranging in comfort from simple and stylish to luxurious, and a beautiful two-bedroom cottage,

each set within our 25 acres of gardens and miombo woodland. You can safely walk around the property, which is great for birding.

SAFARI CONSULTANTSZAMBIA-WIDE

Established in 1983, Safari Consultants is a leading specialist in tailor-made African safari holidays. We cover East and Southern Africa, offering a wide range of holiday options. However, we are especially known for our in-depth knowledge of ‘safari Africa’, and we are particularly passionate about Zambia because it offers such unspoilt and authentic safari experiences.


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Safari plannerThe following is an index of all advertisers in this edition, with a cross-reference to the page on which their advertisement appears. If you would like to receive information from any of our advertisers, please contact them directly, saying that you saw their advert in this magazine. Alternatively, you can get further information about them by visiting our Safari Planner, at www.safariplanner.co.uk or via www.travelafricamag.com

UK OPERATORS

Africa Explorer 52

Alpha Travel 46

Bear Grylls Survival Academy 106

Drive Botswana 63

Ngoko Safaris 68

Outposts Travel Africa 68

AFRICAN OPERATORS

Africa Tourist Information 97

Alex Walker’s Serian 80

An African Anthology 16

Chameleon Holidays & Travel 97

Coetzer Nature Photography 22

Dry Season Safaris 107

Great Plains Conservation 82

Karibu Safari 96

Mad Bookings Inside Front Cover

Orion Hotels (Bushtops) 13

Out of Africa Photography 18

Pulse Africa 135

Rhino Africa Outside Back Cover

Robin Pope Safaris 52

SafariBookings.com 6

Sanctuary Retreats 32

Sun Destinations 68

The Responsible Safari Co. 50

Tourmaline Safaris 96

Wild Frontiers 44

World Air Travel & Tours 45

BOTSWANA

Botswana Tourism 2

Desert & Delta Safaris 4

Ker & Downey Safaris 66

Meno a Kwena 66

Muchenje Safari Lodge 66

Phakalane Golf Estate Hotel Resort 40

KENYA

Flamboyant 90

Kenya Comfort Hotel and Hotel Suites 90

Leopard Beach Resort & Spa 44

Porini Camps 90

Saruni 88

Southern Sun Mayfair Nairobi 116

MADAGASCAR

Visit Mada Tours 117

MALAWI

Fisherman’s Rest 46

Game Haven Lodge 52

Malawian Style 47

Ulendo Travel Group 50

NAMIBIA

Namibia Wildlife Resorts 14

The Cardboard Box Travel Shop 96

The Mushara Collection 97

SOUTH AFRICA

Idube Game Reserve 32

Isibindi Africa 107

Lukimbi Safari Lodge 34

Madikwe Safari Lodge (More Hotels) 106

Sibuya Game Reserve & Tented Camps 107

Tau Game Lodge 32

TANZANIA

Asanja Africa 80

Eco Lodge Africa 45

Hotels and Lodges Tanzania 26-27

Kearsleys Travel & Tours 44

Lemala Kuria Hills 42

Mbalageti Serengeti 80

Oltipesi Fam Lodge 32

ZAMBIA

Stanley Safari Lodge 34

ZAMBIA SAFARI PLANNER

Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp 125

Baines’ River Camp 124

Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro 126

Chongwe Safaris 127

David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa,

Lady Livingstone River Cruiser and

Thorntree River Lodge 125

Flatdogs Camp 131

Kafue Camps & Safaris –

Mayukuyuku Bush Camp 133

Kafunta Safaris 128

Konkamoya Lodge 132

Lion Camp 130

Norman Carr Safaris 127

Pioneer Lodge & Camps 134

Remote Africa Safaris 131

Robin Pope Safaris 122

Royal Zambezi Lodge 126

Safari Consultants 134

Safari Par Excellence 124

Sanctuary Retreats 128

Shenton Safaris – Kaingo Camp and

Mwamba Bush Camp 129

The Bushcamp Company 130

The River Club 126

Thornicroft Lodge 132

Waterberry Lodge and The River

Farmhouse 123

Wilderness Safaris 133

ZIMBABWE

Africa Albida Tourism 38

African Bush Camps 38

Come to Zimbabwe group 10-11

Musango Safari Camp 34

Wild Horizons 34

SELF DRIVE / OVERLAND

Avis Botswana Inside Back Cover

RSA 4x4 Products 88

AIRLINES

Fly Uganda 117

South African Airways 1

Ulendo Airlink 18

MISCELLANEOUS

ATTA 88

Discover Africa Show 118

ESBC 104

Lisa Christoffersen (African Art) 117

Swarovski UK 3

Contact us for exclusive tailor-made holidays to Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands.

UK tel: +44 1865 591097 SA tel: +27 11 325 2290 email: [email protected] www.pulseafrica.com


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Parting shot

Keep smilingThe best doctor will always encourage you to

smile, have fun and make someone happy.

Photograph by Manoj Shah / Getty Images.

For Dave.


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So you want to seelions in the wild? What it’s like... and why they’re fi ghting for survival

FOR EXCEPTIONAL SUPPORTERS OF THE AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION

Conservation lodges Q&A with AWF CEO Project updatesTackling wildlife traffi cking Advising South Sudan+

SpecialAWF issue


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ne of the biggest

challenges wildlife faces

in Africa is the extremely

rapid pace at which the

continent is developing and changing.*

African Wildlife Foundation (AWF),

therefore, regularly evaluates and updates

its conservation strategies in order to stay

relevant and effective on the ground.

Since our founding, we have been

well positioned to help guide change to

ensure Africa’s incredible wildlife resource

remains secure.

Speaking of change, AWF is pleased

to announce a new partnership with Travel

Africa magazine. This will take the place of

our long-standing relationship with Africa

Geographic. As an exclusive donor benefi t,

you will now receive special AWF editions

of this fantastic publication—providing

you with in-depth updates on what your

donor dollars are doing for wildlife, as

well as fresh and engaging content on

conservation, travel, and issues impacting

the continent. Though it is a departure from

the past, we believe this new partnership

is a positive change that will ensure you

remain informed and inspired by Africa.

As you might deduce, Travel Africa

offers particularly interesting travel

coverage related to Africa’s landscapes. In

our premier issue, we have focused on that

“travel” theme and revisited some of the

many conservation lodges AWF has helped

communities establish over the years.

When done well, these lodges—many

of which are community owned—accrue

signifi cant benefi ts for people and wildlife

alike, and our main feature story on page 8

examines what those benefi ts look like.

Such projects help counter the illegal

wildlife trade by providing local residents

alternatives to poaching for income. The

war against illegal wildlife traffi cking is a

complex one, however, that necessitates

collaboration with a whole spectrum of

stakeholders. Page 4 offers the latest

updates on an issue previously considered

an African problem but now recognized as

a truly global challenge.

As these and other stories portray,

Africa is a dynamic continent—and it’s

thanks to you that AWF continues to

successfully address the changes and

challenges as they arise. Whether we are

investing in a new class of Conservation

Management Trainees (page 6) or working

to create a culture of conservation in the

new country of South Sudan (page 14),

your support is evident throughout this

issue and on the ground. As always, thank

you for your involvement in conserving the

wildlife and wild lands of this continent we

all love.

Editor / Publisher Craig [email protected]

Managing Director Iain Wallace

Business Development Sally [email protected]

Sales Manager Dave [email protected]

Publications Manager Phil [email protected]

Customer Services Sherry [email protected]

Art Director: AWF Lisa Duke

Designer: Travel Africa Mark [email protected]

Accounts Amanda Gaydon,Jodie Pratt, Tracy [email protected]

SubscriptionsCan be delivered directly to you in your most convenient format:

as a traditional printed magazine posted to your doorOrder from www.travelafricamag.com

as a digital fl ipbook for your PC, Mac or tablet, from www.zinio.com

as a digital fl ipbook and text format, with additional content, for iPad and iPhone via the ‘Travel Africa Magazines’ app on the iTunes App Store. * Note, the print and app editions of Travel Africa are not currently linked. Please choose your preferred option.

Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is made to ensure that the contents of Travel Africa are accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any consequence of using the information contained herein.

Chief Executive Offi cer Patrick J Bergin, Ph.D

Vice President for Philanthropy and Marketing Craig R Sholley

Director of Marketing and MembershipJohn W Butler, Jr

Senior Writer and Publications ManagerMayu Mishina

ContributorsMarie Frei, Kathleen Garrigan, Gayane Margaryan

Travel Africa AWF Supplement Winter 2014

* For more on development and other issues impacting Africa and AWF’s work there, check out the Q&A I did with our publications staff. You can fi nd it on pages 12 – 13.

TRAVEL AFRICA is published by Gecko Publishing ISSN 1561-2783

This edition, Winter 2014, published 1 January 2014.

Gecko Publishing Ltd, The Dovecote, Little BaldonOxford, OX44 9PU, United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883, Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893 @TravelAfricamag www.facebook.com/TA.magazines

www.travelafricamag.com www.ta-emags.com www.safariplanner.co.uk www.geckomags.com

PATRICK J. BERGIN, PH.D.CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

changeADAPTING TO

PHO

TO: C

RAIG

R. S

HO

LLEY

When done well, these lodges accrue signifi cant benefi ts for people and wildlife alike

AWF.ORG [email protected] Facebook.com/AfricanWildlifeFoundation

@AWF_Offi cial

Kenya: Ngong Rd, Karen, P O Box 310, 00502, Nairobi USA: 1400 Sixteenth St, N.W, Suite 120,

Washington, DC 20036


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Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 1

How your assistance is helping to drive conservation programs across AfricaWHAT’S INSIDE…

08CONSERVATION ENTERPRISESGETTING DOWN TO BUSINESSHow AWF’s investment in

conservation-based tourism

enterprises is paying dividends

for Africa’s wildlife and people

06CONSERVATION TRAINEES

Meet the new class of trainees now in the fi eld and

see how they’re already making a big difference

02NEWS ROUNDUPUpdates on our activities across Africa,

including projects to help the red colobus, rhinos,

elephants, and great apes, as well as AWF’s

efforts in the fi ght against poaching and illegal

wildlife traffi cking

YOUR SUPPORT REALLY HELPS

PLEASE VISIT AWF.ORG/DONATE

12Q&A WITH PATRICK BERGIN

Our CEO gives his take on the state of conservation

in Africa and AWF’s role going forward

14 SOUTH SUDANEXCITING OPPORTUNITIES

James Kahurananga, AWF’s technical advisor in South Sudan, offers an insider’s view on that country’s conservation potential, which includes Africa’s second-largest mammal migration

16WEB WATCH

WHAT’S HAPPENING See how technology is

allowing AWF supporters to

get close to some of Africa’s

most elusive creatures

MAR

TIN

HAR

VEY

FIAC

HRA

KEA

RNEY

JULI

E LA

RSEN

MAH

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WIL

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SERV

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OCI

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The latest updates on our various projects across the continent

NEWS FROM

Protecting the red colobusAccording to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of

Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population

has declined by more than 80 percent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded

a Niger Delta survey of the Nigeria–Cameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel

Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since

expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of

Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.

For the fi rst time, everyday

Congolese are taking

an active role in the

conservation of their

country’s bonobos. In the

Congo landscape, AWF has

trained 50 people from

the Congolese wildlife

authority (Institut Congolais

pour la Conservation de la

Nature, or ICCN) and the

local community to use

CyberTracker technology

units to conduct ecological

monitoring in the

Lomako–Yokokala Faunal

Reserve. The trained

individuals walk the

reserve in groups of fi ve

to eight people, looking

for signs of wildlife and

recording their sightings

into the CyberTracker.

Previously only

ICCN ecoguards had

been allowed inside the

protected area. Now

that trained community

members are able to enter

to conduct the ecological

monitoring, AWF Congo

Landscape Director Charly

Facheux says they are

beginning to understand

more fully the value of

conservation and their role

in protecting wildlife. He

adds: “It is really wise to

work with them; they know

the geography very well.”

RAS

HID

KAN

YAO

AWF roundup

JEF

DU

PAIN

80% DECLINE OF

THE COLOBUS MONKEY

IN THE PAST FEW DECADES

Local ecological monitoring

2 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014

MORE ROOM FOR ELEPHANTSIn Kilimanjaro, AWF signed another round of land lease agreements with 703 area landowners in July and August. These secured more than 7,000 acres of protected land for elephants in the region. AWF has now protected more than 25,000 acres of land in the Kilimanjaro landscape for wildlife.

Motorbikes for rhinos AWF has approved a grant for the Great Fish River Nature Reserve to purchase four new motorbikes to assist with its rhino protection efforts. The bikes replace older models.

CRAI

G R

. SH

OLL

EY


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For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube. Log on to awf.org and follow the links for social media.

CONSERVATION CELEBRATIONSAs part of the 50th anniversary of Kidepo Valley National Park, one of the protected areas targeted under the USAID/Uganda Tourism for Biodiversity Program, AWF and Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) honored 10 Ugandan women who have shown exemplary leadership in conservation, including Dr. Margaret Druciri (pictured), a wildlife veterinarian with UWA who rescues injured or orphaned wildlife. This new ‘Uganda Women in Conservation’ recognition aims to encourage female youth to take up careers in conservation.

Indulge the chocolate lover in you

while also supporting AWF: through its

GiveBack partnership program, premium

organic chocolate-maker Endangered

Species Chocolate (ESC) has given five

percent of its net profits to AWF since

2009. Donations from ESC have been

instrumental in underwriting our African

Apes Initiative to save Africa’s great ape

populations. They have also supported

some of our rhino and elephant anti-

poaching efforts. Last year, ESC donated

well over US$100,000 to AWF from its

chocolate sales.

To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/

chocolate

& THE WINNER IS...AWF recently closed its second Annual Safari Sweepstakes contest, and we’re happy to announce that Kathryn S. Reynolds, a Hawaii resident, is currently traveling to Tanzania as part of the AWF Serengeti Safari! Stay tuned to awf.org and upcoming issues to get the lowdown on her experience!

Chocolatey goodness

UG

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FORMER U.S. DEFENSE ATTACHÉ CAUGHT TRAFFICKING IVORYOn the same day that U.S. President Barack Obama was in Tanzania pledging fi nancial and other support from the United States to combat wildlife traffi cking in Africa, former U.S. defense attaché David McNevin was caught at Kenya’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport transporting 21 pieces of carved elephant ivory and promptly arrested. McNevin pleaded guilty and paid a fi ne of Ksh 30,000 (about US$350).

In mid-November, the U.S.

government crushed its six

tons of confi scated ivory

to highlight the plight of

Africa’s elephants. AWF

took the opportunity to

urge other countries around

the world to follow suit and

destroy their own ivory

stockpiles. Furthermore,

with more than 35,000

African elephants killed

for their tusks every year,

AWF proposed all countries

implement immediate

domestic moratoria on

trade in ivory until all

elephant populations are

no longer threatened.

This new position by

AWF comes in response to

the changing situation on

the ground. “Right now,

Africa is hemorrhaging

elephants,” says

Bergin. “Elephant

carcasses—the ones

that are documented

—lie strewn in forests, on

savannas and in national

parks, and their stolen ivory

fl ows out of Africa’s airports

and seaports to illegal ivory

markets around the world.

The only way to staunch the

movement of illegal ivory

is to wipe out the demand,

and that begins with

destroying stockpiles and

stopping trade.”

Though a 1989 ban

on international trade in

ivory remains in place,

many countries—including

China and the United

States—allow raw and

worked ivory to be traded

domestically.

CRUSH ALL IVORY

This past October, AWF CEO Patrick Bergin (below, center) and seven other individuals were appointed to the U.S. Advisory Council on Wildlife Traffi cking, which will assist a Presidential Task Force in developing a national strategy for combating wildlife traffi cking. The appointments were announced during a White House event attended by former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and Clinton Foundation Vice Chair Chelsea Clinton (left).

Bergin’s appointment is a testament to AWF’s record in African conservation. More importantly, it allows us to help guide U.S. policy decisions on Africa’s illegal wildlife traffi cking crisis.

AWF CEO APPOINTED TO PRESIDENTIAL ADVISORY COUNCIL

While promoting her ‘Hands off our Elephants’ campaign, Kenya’s fi rst lady, Margaret Kenyatta, traveled to Amboseli National Park and AWF’s Kilimanjaro landscape, where she met with representatives from several conservation groups, including Fiesta Warinwa, AWF’s country director for Kenya. “I explained to the fi rst lady about our efforts to secure corridors and wildlife dispersal areas, which are critical in maintaining connectivity of elephant habitat,” said Warinwa. “We also discussed poaching and land conversion as two of the main threats to elephants in this area. The fi rst lady promised to help in whatever way she could.”

TAM

I A. H

EILE

MAN

N/D

EPAR

TMEN

T O

F TH

E IN

TERI

OR

JAMIE COTTEN

SIX TONS OF CONFISCATED

IVORY CRUSHED

AWF roundup: Illegal wildlife traffi cking

KENYA’S FIRST LADY VISITS KILIMANJARO LANDSCAPE


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In October, more than 100 elephants in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park were killed and their tusks stolen when their watering holes and salt licks were poisoned with industrial cyanide, often used in gold mining. (Some reports are putting the elephant death toll at closer to 300.)

“Though elephants may have been the target, poison is indiscriminate in who or what it kills. Lions, hyenas, vultures, kudus, and other wildlife, in addition to elephants, have fallen victim,” says

Philip Muruthi, senior director of conservation science at AWF.

Several arrests have been made in connection with the poisoning. Some of the poachers who were caught even received 15-year jail sentences. “Wildlife crime is not often seen as very serious and deserving of severe punishment, but these jail sentences are very high, which suggests the authorities in Zimbabwe are taking this tragedy very seriously,” says Jimmiel Mandima, AWF’s U.S. government liaison and

a Zimbabwe national. “Hwange is a huge area to monitor and protect. With limited staff and resources, I suspect park authorities were themselves taken by surprise.”

Reports suggest many of the poachers came from local villages near the park. This is one of the reasons why AWF works so closely with local communities: those with access to economic opportunities and other social benefi ts are less inclined to turn to poaching and more likely to help catch poachers and traffi ckers.

“When local people benefi t from living near wildlife, they will take ownership of and defend their natural resources,” said Muruthi.

HALTING DEMAND FOR RHINO HORNRhinos remain under assault, with South Africa’s Kruger National Park having lost nearly 1500 rhinos to poaching in the past five years. While supporting boots on the ground continues to be important in the fight to protect rhinos, ultimately demand in Asia for rhino horn must decline to stop the killing.

As part of their demand awareness campaign in Asia, AWF and partner

WildAid worked with artist Asher Jay to produce magazine ads that likened the African rhino and elephant to China’s beloved panda.

Commitments against poachingIn October, AWF CEO

Patrick Bergin joined other

conservation groups,

former Secretary of State

Hillary Clinton, Clinton

Foundation Vice Chair

Chelsea Clinton, and

several African heads of

state at the Clinton Global

Initiative Annual Meeting to

announce a Commitment

to Action to protect Africa’s

elephants. The individual

and combined efforts will

be aimed at stopping the

killing of elephants, the

traffi cking of ivory, and the

demand for ivory products.

“This is more than a

conservation issue. It’s a

security issue. It’s a poverty

issue. It’s a consumer

issue. For this reason,

many players—from

governments to the private

sector—must be involved,

too,” said Bergin.

ELEPHANTS POISONED IN ZIMBABWE

CIAR

AN W

HEE

LER

AS

HER

JAY

In the Republic of Guinea, wildlife traffi cker

Ousame Diallo was sentenced to a year in

prison—the most severe penalty allowed

under Guinean law for wildlife crime

offenders—following his arrest by local

authorities, whose actions were supported

by INTERPOL and a

local anti-wildlife

traffi cking group.

Diallo admitted

to traffi cking 500

endangered western

chimpanzees,

a subspecies of

chimpanzee found

in Guinea.

“The pet trade

is often overlooked

when we talk about the

global illegal wildlife

trade, but it is currently

devastating ape

populations across Africa,” said Jef Dupain,

director of AWF’s Great Apes Program, who

notes that the majority of the pet trade

demand comes from Asia.

AWF’s African Apes Initiative is

assisting wildlife authorities in Central and

West Africa to increase monitoring and

protection of these at-risk primates.

Justice served?

MAR

TIN

HAR

VEY


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Diffi cult dilemma

f

T


Above: AWF’s second class of Conservation Management Trainees—Edwin Tambara (second from left), Sarah Chiles, and Yohannes Seifu, pictured with Samburu Landscape coordinator Benson Lengalen (far left)—spent their fi rst three months getting an intensive course in AWF’s conservation philosophies and landscapes

PHOTO: EDWIN TAMBARA

New Conservation Management Trainees are eager to learn the ins and outs of conservation from AWF experts

class

IF YOU WANT TO LEARN ABOUT HOW PRACTICAL CONSERVATION IS ACHIEVED, THEN

YOU SHOULD APPLY FOR CMTP

EDWIN TAMBARA CMTP CLASS OF 2015

MEET THE NEW

Conservation management training


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THEO WAY NANADuring his first nine months of

fieldwork, Theo Way Nana, an

environmental lawyer from the

Democratic Republic of Congo and

former Congo landscape community

officer for AWF, was based in the

Samburu landscape.

Here, he developed land-use

plans for Kirimon Group Ranch,

which allowed him to use his

environmental law expertise

to support implementation of

participatory forest management

plans. He facilitated several meetings

with community representatives to

explain the importance of land-

use planning, obtain their views

about the process, and develop an

overarching action plan.

From Nana’s current base in

Lake Mburo, Uganda, he will spend

a second nine-month placement

supporting the implementation

of the USAID/Uganda Tourism for

Biodiversity program.

“In Samburu, I was working

mainly in existing conservancies.

In Uganda, I am working for

the establishment of new

conservancies,” Nana reports.

“Both experiences are

demonstrating to me how

committed AWF really is to

building the capacity of Africans

in conservation by empowering

community and local organizations

to take over the responsibility and

leadership of conservation in their

land areas,” says Nana.

CATCHING UP WITH THE


2nd phase

Marie Frei

first classAfter a full year of training and field experience, the first round of AWF Conservation Management Trainees has already amassed a wealth of experience.

GEORGE OKWAROTrainee George Okwaro most recently supported the Mau reforestation project

in Kenya’s Rift Valley under the direction of AWF’s technical directors of climate

change and science. “I now perceive conservation with a holistic, viable, systems

approach and better understand the complexity and the dynamics within and

among the different groups of biomes in the landscape,” he says.

In August, Okwaro transitioned from CMTP trainee to full-time AWF employee.

In his new capacity as

program officer, Mau Forest,

he is responsible for the

implementation of the forest

conservation program in this

ecosystem and continues to

engage in other forestry and

climate change work within the

organization.

His promotion provides a

perfect example of how AWF

envisions CMTP working, where

AWF develops high-potential

future conservation leaders

and looks for opportunities

for them to contribute to

both our organization and to

conservation over the long term.

EDW

IN T

AMB

ARA

PETE

R CH

IRA

To learn more, visit

awf.org/cmtp


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AWF’s investment in conservation-based tourism enterprises pays dividends for Africa’s wildlife and people.

GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS &

Elerai enterprise

saving wildlife

Satao Elerai Camp, set in the foothills of Kilimanjaro, is a flagship AWF-facilitated enterprise that has conserved some 5,000 acres of land for wildlife while providing substantial income for the local community

Conservation enterprise

PHIL

IP M

URU

THI


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Machenje Fishing Lodge opened in August to take advantage of tourism opportunities from sport fishing

and provide much-needed income to the people of the Sekute Chiefdom. Locals understand the

lodge was established by AWF in return for elephant conservation efforts.

According to a World Bank report, tourism is one of the largest and fastest-growing

sectors of the world economy


Gathering steam

ALIS

ON

LAN

GEV

AD

PERR

IN B

ANKS

AWF has found that the establishment of conservation lodges has helped protect key

wildlife species. In Uganda, for example, the Bwindi mountain gorilla population has

increased since Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge opened for business in 2008


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Measuring success

From Day One, Elerai Group Ranch has received income—approximately US$300,000 to date

When communities benefit from wildlife tourism, they will engage in conservation to protect wildlife

MAN

YARA

RAN

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ON

SERV

ANCY

PERR

IN B

ANKS

Manyara Ranch Tented Camp

Ngoma Safari Lodge

Conservation enterprise

MAR

TIN

HAR

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1 MOUNTAIN GORILLAClouds Mountain

Gorilla Lodge opened

outside of Uganda’s Bwindi

Impenetrable National Park

in 2008, providing income to

the Nkuringo community. The

2011 census of mountain

gorillas in Bwindi found at

least 400 individuals, up

from 302 in 2005. Current

numbers of the mountain

gorilla population in the

nearby Virunga Massif add

another 480, putting the

total world population of

mountain gorillas at 880…

and growing!

2 GREATER KUDUAn AWF survey using

geographic information

systems (or GIS) found that

between 2002 and 2011,

community settlements

and infrastructure had

increased in many parts of

northern Kenya’s Samburu

landscape—but not in the

conservation area agreed

upon between AWF and the

local Maasai community,

ensuring protection for

wildlife such as the greater

kudu (below). The Sanctuary

at Ol Lentille, another AWF

conservation enterprise

project, opened in 2007.

3 ELEPHANTThough elephant

numbers in some parts of

Africa are declining as a

result of rampant elephant

poaching, one region where

a signifi cant elephant

population still exists is

in northern Botswana.

Here, to provide sanctuary

for elephants outside of

Chobe National Park, AWF

worked with the 7,000

members of the Chobe

enclave to establish Ngoma

Safari Lodge. The Chobe

community, in turn, set aside

a portion of their land for

conservation.

4 WILD DOGOnce an overgrazed

government-owned ranch,

Manyara Ranch Conservancy

has rebounded as an

important wildlife corridor

between Lake Manyara and

Tarangire National Parks.

Since Manyara Ranch Tented

Camp opened its tent fl aps

on conservancy grounds,

elephants, lions, giraffe, and

other wildlife have returned.

The most recent arrivals:

endangered wild dogs

(above), spotted

after many years

of disappearance

from the

conservancy!

Kathleen Garrigan

Fancy visiting one of these conservation lodges?

www.awf.org/safari


CONSERVATION ENTERPRISE + COMMUNITIES = WILDLIFEAWF’s conservation tourism enterprises have not only benefi ted people, but also an array of wildlife across Africa.

PHIL PERRY WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY


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http://www.awf.org/safari




We ask AWF CEO Patrick Bergin for his take on the state of conservation in Africa and AWF’s role going forward.

A SITDOWN WITH THE How would you characterize how AWF is doing?

What would you say to those who feel like the poaching

situation has become hopeless?

AWF CEO Patrick Bergin believes that, given Africa’s considerable size, it should be possible for the continent to modernize but still maintain pristine areas for nature and wildlife.

Q&A


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As a wildlife organization, how can we think that we can do

education well?

Anything else you’d like our supporters to know?

Isn’t that a bit like developed countries telling developing

countries, “Don’t do as we did”?

What would you say was AWF’s biggest

success last year?

Get more opinion on conservation issues on our blogs page:

awf.org/blog

Africa is modernizing rapidly. What do you see as AWF’s role

in such an environment?

WITH VISION AND POLITICAL

WILL, IT SHOULD BE POSSIBLE FOR AFRICA TO HAVE

ITS CAKE AND EAT IT TOO

PATRICK BERGINAWF CEO

MAI

N P

HO

TO: M

ARTI

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ARVE

Y

IN

SET:

JULI

E LA

RSEN

MAH

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WIL

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OCI

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http://awf.org/blog




Former Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga, now an AWF technical advisor for South Sudan’s Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism, offers an insider’s perspective on the country’s conservation potential.

south sudan

new country faces any number of challenges, and for the Republic of South Sudan, that includes determining how best

to manage its abundance of natural resources. At the request of the government, AWF

is assisting South Sudan in establishing appropriate policies that will help protect its natural resources. Since March, former Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga has been working in Juba as the AWF technical advisor for the Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism.

We asked Kahurananga about the country’s conservation potential.

ADVISING

New frontiers

What is the state of South Sudan’s wildlife and ecosystems?

In your view, what are the biggest priorities for the Ministry?

What is the strongest threat to conservation in South Sudan?

What does your role as technical advisor to the Ministry of Wildlife

Conservation and Tourism entail?


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South Sudan is still such a new nation. Why is it important for

AWF to get involved right now?

What are the greatest overall challenges that the South

Sudanese government faces? Where does conservation fi t into broader governmental concerns?

What do you think it will take to establish a more

conservation-oriented mindset among the citizenry?

AWF’s James Kahurananga, who is acting as a technical advisor to South Sudan’s government in Juba, notes AWF’s experience in land conservation, enterprise development, and conservation education and training will prove invaluable as South Sudan establishes its conservation policies.

PHOTO:PER KARLSSON

FIAC

HRA

KEA

RNEY

AWF is helping the South Sudanese government to establish conservation

policies that will protect the country’s astounding diversity

THE COUNTRY IS

VERY YOUNG AND POLICIES AND LAWS ARE

CRUCIAL AT THIS EARLY STAGEJAMES KAHURANANGA

AWF TECHNICAL ADVISOR TO SOUTH SUDAN


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Camera traps offer an unobtrusive way to monitor wildlife—and now, another way for AWF supporters to get close to some of Africa’s most elusive creatures.

Your support really makes a difference. Thank you.

awf.org/donate

Wide-ranging use

GET UP CLOSE & PERSONAL WITH

View the videos

– Gayane Margaryan

Camera traps offer a variety of advantages for wildlife research and monitoring, especially when dealing with elusive species such as the leopard (Top).

They have also been found to capture rare species, such as the forest elephant (Bottom)–and even poachers (Middle).

What’s new online

“The cameras proved very helpful in collecting evidence of a number of species that are normally diffi cult to fi nd”JEFF DUPAIN, DIRECTORAWF GREAT APES PROGRAM

PHIL

IP M

URU

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MAX

PLA

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LOG

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