Portfoliovorname nametibetanPilgrimagePhotograPhy: Pierre Crié

French photographer Pierre Crié spent two months pilgrim-aging along the roof of the world. There, he deepened not only his understanding of his work but of himself. He returns with an uplifting story from the high plateaus.

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The holy sea of Manasarovar at 4490 metres altitude (previous page). Workers on the road between Lhasa and Kathmandu (below). Every year millions of Buddhists perform a pilgrimage along this and other roads in Tibet

Taking breaks and gathering strength is vital. Every pilgrim has his own pace, pausing to eat and pray when it is right for him (right)

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The atmosphere on the pilgrimage is happy,

peaceful and filled with a longing for salvation.

All are seeking together – families, foreigners,

friends and novices (left)

The Kailash towering in the background. The

Tibetans call it the “Pre- cious Jewel of Snow”. Its peak is holy and may not be climbed – something

the many visitors who go there know to respect

Ascending the Drölma pass (5650 m). The Kai-

lash is encircled by the most difficult pilgrimage route on Earth. Believers

boldly brave the exertion, the thin, icy air and the steep, slippery ascents

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The name Tibet is used to describe the Tibetan Highlands as well as the Tibet Autonomous Region in the People’s Republic of China. However, the annexation of Tibet remains a heated topic today

Thousands of monasteries and cultural monuments fell victim to the cultural revolution. The Potala, the Daila Lama’s palace in Lhasa (above left), still exists today – and so does the political tension

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Nomad lady in the moun-tainous lands of Tibet (right). The trail around the Kailash attracts believers from all over Asia: Hindus, Buddhists, Jainas from northern India and followers of the shamanistic Bön religion, which pre-dates Buddhism in Tibet

The Kailash is encircled by a taxing pilgrimage path: Along this 53 km trail one passes through valleys of boulders, along steep drops, through icy caves and up steep ascents

The first and fourth month of the Tibetan calender sees large quan- tities of pilgrims clam-bering up the Kailash. It is partly worshipped because of the four great rivers, such as the Indus which springs from its circumference

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The Dragla Luguk Temple in Lhasa (left). In prayer the rosary beads are held in the left hand while the prayer drum is rotated with the right

Traditionally, Tibetan society is deeply religious. The recitation of the holy syllables “om mani padme hum” denotes a longing for salvation from the circle of rebirths

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Crié’s photographs are composed, dispas-sionate and bordering on selfless. They reflect the photographer’s intimate relation-ship with the Tibetan way of life

To many, Tibet remains one of those mystery places on Earth. Only 2.6 million people on 1.2 million square kilometres of land … Despite Chinese occupation, Tibetan Buddhism remains deeply rooted in the culture. On this uppermost plateau we find temples and settlements, prayer flags blowing in the wind and believers circling stupas.

French photographer Pierre Crié was enchanted by the magic of Tibet. In 2000, he followed the tide of pilgrims and captured his fascination with Tibetan Buddhism with his camera. “All the European travellers who went there expressed their admiration for these pilgrims. I had to experience it for myself, as well as document the living pilgrimage tradition in this land of holy places.”

Crié, born 1958, a member of the Picturetank network, began his career as a fashion photographer. After seven years in the industry he opted out. On his 30th birthday he swapped make-up, catwalk and studio lights for the big wide world. Usually he would travel for himself. Other times he would shoot for international magazines. In 1995, he flew to India with his two new Leica cameras and a couple of precepts: no more colour photography, just black & white. No more pictures to please others, just authentic photographs with real stories.

After three years he returned with profound insights into the Islamic religion and life of Indian Sufis. He also brought home countless pictures exploring his interest in faith. His conversion to Leica brought Crié closer to the people and their ways of life. To tread new paths, try out new things, go with the flow – this was how Crié went about his photography.

Lhasa, the capital city of independent Tibet and now the administrative capital of Chinese-governed Tibet Autonomous Region, is where most pilgrims begin their quest. Crié set off in May. For the most part he walked alone. One time he met a young monk who accompanied him five days. Together they braved the snow and ice, sought shelter in caves and shared Tibetan tea with rancid butter prepared by nuns. “Despite my limited language skills I know we understood each other. I learned about their rituals and what they hoped to gain from them. I slowly unravelled the mysteries of the yogi.”

The seekers were all headed for the holy mountain of Kailash in the Gangdisê Mountains which are part of the Western Himalayas. 6714 metres high and resembling the shape of a pyramid, the Kailash is a spiritual hotspot mentioned in Hinduism, Buddishm, Jainism, Ayyavazhi, and the Bön religion. A 53 km trail spirals up the mountain 5740 metres high. Hindus and Buddhists travel in a clockwise manner. Jains and followers of the ancient Bön religion circumnavigate the Kailash from the opposite counterclockwise direction.

For Buddhists, circling it 108 times is said to result in instant enlightenment. Some pilgrims believe the entire journey around Kailash should be made in just a day. Another form of pilgrimage involves holding the hands above the head and then throwing oneself to the ground, stretching out the hands. Then one kneels, touches the ground with the forehead and stretches forward laying flat on one’s belly. Some pilgrims will perform such a “long kowtow” every

three steps, occasionally even taking years to arrive at their destination. They call it measuring the roof of the world with the body.

Crié had no time for an experience like that. The Chinese authorities refused to extend his 2-month visa. “Still, I believe

I came as close to the pilgrims as I could, sharing in on their lifestyle and practising the many rituals together. I became the travel companion who would occasionally pull out his camera and laugh through the viewfinder.”

Because his three Leicas – an M6, M4P and M3 – ran so smoothly, Crié was able to concentrate fully on capturing the right moment. After years of toiling away with complicated, bulky equipment, Crié truly appreciated the freedoms brought

by the discreet and reliable Leicas. “Even when I found myself in the middle of a snowstorm I was able to insert a roll of film and continue snapping away.”

Crié experienced the Tibetans as the friendliest, happiest people he ever met. They were not shy and would stand for his camera with great openness. “People recognised I was looking to document and show the aliveness of their faith despite Chinese oppression.” This chilling record can be seen in Pierre Crié’s

photography book Pèlerinages Tibétains (Autrement, Paris 2004).

Meanwhile, ten years have passed since the photographer first embarked on his journey. What has changed? “I continue to practice meditation and yoga every day. Tibet and its people taught me an invaluable lesson on love and courage, generosity and humility – things that are so much more important for a happy living than a camera could possibly ever be.” MAIKE BÖHM

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