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The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb

Consulting EditorNigel Simmonds – C.V Icomm

Senior Associate PhotographerYaeko Masudawww.yaekomasuda.com

Associate Fashion PhotographerDustin Humphrey

Associate Wine EditorKatrina Valkenburg

Sales & MarketingPia Tandjung

Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki / Marini Gustiana

Accounts ManagerArthur Chosani

Graphic DesignersIrawan Zuhri, Novan Satria, SuperStu

DistributionMade Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba

PublisherPT Saka Wahana Cipta

Licence1.265/09-04/PB/V/99

Advertising enquiriesTel: (+62 361) 844 6341, 743 1804, 743 1805

www.theyakmag.com

Email: info@theyakmag.comtheyak@indosat.net.idCanggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa,Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia© PT Saka Wahana Cipta

No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. So there.

Inquiries: info@theyakmag.com

Volume Twenty SixMarch/April/May 2010

The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is distributed to 20,000 mailboxes every month. To subscribe go to www.theyakmag.com

Cover CreditsPhotographer: Dustin HumphreyFashion Editor: Caroline CModel: Yulya LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.comHair & Make Up: Dima for LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.comAssistant Hair and Make-up: Martina for LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.comProducer: Mira Humphrey / nouvellevaguela.com

Who, what, when, where and now...Y. The Yak's new yPod App is on its way to you soon with the best place, people and event guide on the planet.

Bikini: Word Of MouthShoe: Melissa by Karim Rachid at SkSNecklace and Ring: Isabel Enciniaswww.isabelencinias.comMaxi Necklace: Andriana at Ku De Ta BoutiqueWatch and Sun Glasses: Wrkshp13 by Johnny RamliBag (on the shoulder): Uma and LeopoldSpecial thanks to Villa Niloufar www.niloufar-villa.com

Luxury In Pr int

102 12836

con tents

46

46 ARTSAKE

Ebon Heath's Wordplay

YAK fASHION 1

Miss 5450

78

80

CONSTANT WINING

Wine Into Water

ORAL PLEASURES

Maestro Chefs

26 YAKETY YAK

Me First 56 THIS MUCH I KNOW

Nico Perez 114 EVENT

Tirtha Style92 BIG SIx

Planet Organic

112 VENTING IN A VILLA

Royal Santrian

108 VENTING IN A VILLA

Sinaran Surga

30 NEW IN THE HOOD

Neighbourhood News 58 INTERWHO

Gigi van Kuljk 96 CLASSICS

Oustide In 116 fASHION fREESTYLE

All Dressed Up

136

36 CULTURE VULTURE

The Light Box Cometh 60 qUESTIONS, qUESTIONS

Fabrizio Alessi 102 OVER THE EDGE

Eastern Promise 128 SOUNDS AROUND

Spirit In The Machine

AD INDEx

Advertising Directory

132 ASTRO YAK

Star Struck

42 CULTURE VULTURE

Infinity In Water 62 YAK fASHION 2

London Calling 106 fEATURE

Join The Club 130 RAVER'S REVIEW

Sade + Massive Attack

More than a wedding...it’s the doorway to your marriage and a lifelong partnership in love

Celebrating Marriagewww.t ir thabr idal .com

For our double-trouble fashion shoots this issue we donned hard hats and headed to a building site that will become, we're assured, the new Paasha complex on Jl. Laksmana, and then to the fabbo villa that is Niloufar. Our thanks to Dustin and team – once more into the breach dear friends. The quality is in the work. Oh yes.

YAKBAcKSTAGE

Dear Yak,I wanted to thank you and your team for producing such a great piece about moi. Awesome! I've had some really good feedback from countless people and the hunt for a PMT (Potential Mrs Thewes) has been given the press boost it so desperately needed! I'm incredibly grateful to you and all at The Yak. I hope that after the renovation I can get you to come and enjoy a night or two here.Jamie ThewesThe IstanaWe're there.

Dear Yak,I have many farmville friends, even some on Yoville, but don't you think it's time to start Yakville instead? You know, get stuck in traffic and appreciate the window shopping? Gift Martini's, oysters and sunsets…and borrow as many venue copies of The Yak as you can.SuzetteOnline from FacebookSomewhere in the ether

Dear Yak,I happened to stumble upon a copy of The Yak one fine winter’s eve at The World’s End in Camden.What a damn fine mag you have there. What can I say, Motor Biking with Deus Ex Machina rocked my world. Any plans to distribute overseas anytime soon? I just have to get my hands on another issue of your mag….and maybe one of those bikes. From London with love,Chloe FrankMagazines can. The bike might be a bit more expensive to ship.

Dear Yak,Blimey, you brought back some memories with your Ode to Absinthe piece. Oscar Wilde made me see the light, then I thought to myself, perhaps, when lost in the blur of Bali, what I really need is…to drink more.Tristan SeminyakWe're happy to see our editorial is reaching the parts that other spirits simply do not (hic).

Dear Yak,I hope you are well! I just felt the urge to drop you a little note! In November last year I joined Surf Goddess Retreats in Seminyak to enjoy a week of fun, yoga, pampering and surf! I simply fell in love with Bali, its people and lifestyle and caught the famous surf bug. I am definitely coming back this year and already counting down the days! In fact I came across The Yak mag through Surf Goddess Retreats and simply wanted to congratulate you on a fantastic product. I browsed through a couple of issues on your website and really loved design, concept and features. I am part of the publishing and advertising family myself and have been working for a boutique publishing house in Dubai for the past three years. In case you are ever looking to grow your sales and marketing team, I’d pack my bags (and surfboard) tomorrow! ;) Keep it up! Can’t wait to grab a hard copy soon!All the best,StefanieDubaiFantastic! Such wonderful praise! And so many exclamation marks! It makes us feel quite special!

A NEW self-help book has identified a fresh affliction. It has, like most other health impediments, been around for centuries, but it has taken a while for the NAPs (New Age Philosophers) to hit the proverbial nail on the head, so to say. Recently diagnosed, The Disease To Please or TDTP – yes, we all suffer from it says the book of the same name by Harriet Braker – has reached epidemic proportions, according to those in the know. This serious psychological syndrome has most of the world putting others before themselves in what can amount to an unhealthy outlook on life that can only lead to all sorts of psychological malaise. The aim of The Book is to guide us to “a balanced way of living that takes others into consideration but puts the emphasis first on pleasing yourself”. Whilst we at The Yak are happy to have the task of ‘pleasing’ our readers with our Yakkish vision of Bali, and at the same time take all of you into consideration, we also are very aware that we put the emphasis on pleasing ourselves first…and it is due to this fact that we consciously take you on an editorial action plan in an effort to offer you easy-to-follow solutions that will produce lasting lifestyle memories and that Yakkish state of mind…(N.B. If it’s ‘recovery’ you’re looking for, we recommend you read this). The first step has to be to gratify oneself by looking into Lucas Galliot’s Light Box in Culture Vulture, before talking to Bali’s new linen fashion house mogul, Nico Perez. We get to pose him some questions before we talk about that ever-gratifying liquid wine with Gigi van Kwijk. Our next step is to be enlightened by another hunky fashionista, fabrizio from Skin. In line with our ‘self-pleasing mental health program’, shopping has always been an individual luxury and very much a ‘me first’ occurrence. How better to enjoy this than by buying shoes and browsing through our fabulous fashion pages? Where we have gone all out to please ourselves first before letting you have a look-see. Step two has to involve satisfying oneself and one’s palate, so we introduce you to the boys that are seriously afflicted with TDTP – we personally hope they never pick up a copy of The Book – they are Bali’s youthful comrades of cuisine. Step three gives us a wistful look at the past with a modern touch of Colonial Spirit and a gratifying sojourn at some of Bali’s pleasure pads. Yes, if by now it’s all about you, congratulations, you are doing swimmingly on your TDTP cure. Art, fashion, food and music come next in a thrilling mélange of organics, a prayer to the irreplaceable H2O, lovingly followed with our distinctive aural pleaser…Sounds Around. And just before we end our attitude adjustment program we invite you to read your very own stars in AstroYak. You’ll know you are well on the way to being almost TDTP-free if you read your horoscope before anyone else’s. May The Yak be with you…

Rare Orchids, Royal Plates and Tropical Park StyleTHE St. Regis Bali Resort has added another feature to its already grand hotel in the form of a tropical park. Like most things at the St. Regis, the lusciously green park is a huge 7,000 square meters in size and features a Chef’s garden; Dulang, the delicious new dinner venue which translates as Royal Plate, and a hammock garden. Not to

be missed is the Orchid Pavillion which houses close to 50 species of this bloom, 44 of them being rare. Now you know, grab your driver get over to St. Regis, walk straight down the pebble stone path, or order a buggy to escort you straight into the St. Regis world of romance and fantasy, grab a book, order a cocktail and recline in one of those hammocks. Divine. Tel: 8478111 www.starwoodhotels.com

cafe code, Salad Mode PERfECTLY positioned on Jalan Pantai Berawa in Canggu is the newly discovered Café Canggu. They’re doing their thing out of a perfectly easy breezy joglo, where you can park yourself on any one of their hidden tables or cushioned corners and indulge in a healthy array of mostly organic meals. favourites would have to include their Daily fresh Bowl of Salad, which allows indecisive salad lovers to choose not one but three salads to go in their bowl. They’ve got Waldorf, Greek, Chickpea, Potato, Pasta, Tuna and a whole lot more, topped off with a slice of tasty bread which you can lavish in oil and wash down with a healthy freshly made juice called a Pick Me Up, or Power Lifter, or Super Anti-oxidant. for the image conscious there is even a juice called “Clear Skin”. But, if all this is starting to sound just a tad too healthy – you’d better get there for breakfast, they do a delicious plate they’ve aptly named “The English”, for it offers eggs, bacon, grilled tomato, sausages, hash browns and…well, we think you get the picture.Tel: 8083222

Warung chicDIRECT from the Philippines to Bali, Crispy Pata Asian Warung has put the chic into the warung on the top floor of SILq in Kerobokan. The order of the day is mouth-watering traditional pork leg and trotter, slow simmered in a savoury broth, air-dried to cure, then deep fried to a crunchy crisp and served with sambal matah or soy-vinegar sauce. It comes with a promise to please the palate, warm the tummy and conquer the heart. Sweet tooth satisfaction comes in the form of an all-you-can-eat Es Campur Bar for those customers who just can’t get enough of the cool Indonesian shaved ice and jellies. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tel: 738076

Make It A Phalosa EventGREATER Seminyak has a new luxury event venue – Phalosa, a blank canvas for you to create your dream event. It has a modern architectural setting, extensive lawns and it’s located right on the beach in Batubelig. They’ve got it sorted for weddings, parties and anything else you might be able to think of. Plus, if you need someone to help you organise, they’ve a dedicated event planner on site too. Cool.Tel: 8475384 www.phalosa.com

Boot-camp, Detox and Getting It Together…RIDE to the rhythm of powerful music with Sunset fitness. Join a group fitness class, get motivated, find a personal trainer. If you don’t you're just going to end up in boot-camp or forced into detox. But that’s okay, because it’s all here. In fact, Sunset fitness is taking Bali’s fitness industry to a whole new level. They’ve got the latest Human Sport equipment which, if you have no idea what that means, is dual-function, cable-based machinery that acts as multiple workout stations which utilise dual weight stacks and just so happens to be designed to reflect human body mechanics. Wow. Bootcamp it is. One more thing: They also mention that joining will help you get legs that shorts want to wear. Tel: 8887026 www.sunsetfitnessbali.com

Get on the PlatformJUST across the street from The Corner Store in Jalan Oberoi is a sweet new store called Platform 18/27. Inside you’ll find a delicious array of clothes, jewelry, cards, shoes, knic-knacks and bags. Of course, the only way to find out why we are talking about it is to walk in the door. Go on then. Tel: 738746 www.platform1827.com

Harry Who?EVER so recently landed on Jalan Petitenget is Harry Juku. So who is this Harry, we hear you ask? Well, in brief, Harry is anything you want it to be: A restaurant, a bar, a late night hangout joint, a breakfast venue, and even a clothing and trinket store. Harry is a fun place to be and his instructions are clear – search the world, design the best dishes and present them Harry's way. The menu covers an international array of tastes from Japan, Italy, Australia, france, China and America. Harry guarantees you will love it. Tel: 732884 www.harryjuku.com

Zzzzzzzz.

Harry's bar.

Let's shop.

Brunch SundaysTHE free-flowing informal style of Glow’s kitchen gallery combined with Como Shambhala Estate’s organically grown ingredients, the finest produce and a myriad of methods of creating enticing combinations of healthy food make this a brunch to remember.

Choose from a huge selection that includes Grilled king prawns with potato, mint and masala, Chargrilled grass-fed beef with grilled vegetables and balsamic. Or, if you’ve a sweet tooth, Gingerbread hotcakes with lemon sauce, Mascarpone and strawberry roulade with strawberry sauce or Berry, date and cashew nut crème tartlet. Ah, Sundays at Como Shambhala just have to be tried. Tel: 978888 www.cse.como.bz

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Damar Terrace ReturnsfRESHLY refreshed and re-open for business after extensive renovations is the Ayana Resort’s Damar Terrace. The body work was performed under the skilled eye of acclaimed Japanese designer Yasuhiro Koichi whose claims to fame includes, amongst other things, The Rock Bar. Sit yourself down at the bar in the central thatch-roofed open-air gazebo, a large carved wooden dragon suspended dramatically over your head and feel the restaurant’s

modern yet relaxed vibe. Executive Chef Giordano faggioli will calm your apetite with small bites and European and Asian favourites. Tel: 702222 www.ayanaresort.com

The circus is coming to TownSEA Circus and Cirque Du Lait is a seafood restaurant with a social life. It’s casual fine dining where everything on the dinner menu is made to be shared. They have an Australian Chef who hails from the benches at Cecconi’s, Cantina, Longrain and Blake’s and they should be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner right about now. If coffee’s more your thing then the team at Circus claim to be uber-coffee geeks and will be doing their best to have the best machine and grinder on the island. www.seacircus-bali.com

convenient PleasuresBALI is the proud home of a new retail sanctuary called Mint. The story goes that owners Rina Nurjaya and Sybil Steele decided it was a perfectly good idea to convert a restaurant on Sunset Road into a modern mini department and lifestyle store. So there you have it; art, fashion, books, interior, café, nail bar and kids eco art and creativity studio. There is also a gourmet bistro and soon there will be regular guest DJs, art films flickering at night, a luxury florist, gelato and a wine cellar and lounge. Who says that all pleasures can’t be convenient…Tel: 762599 www.mintbali.com

Ubud Meets MoroccoAN all-exclusive Shisha Lounge-Bar-Restaurant has hit the streets of Ubud in the form of xL Lounge. You’ll be escorted straight to Morocco complete with shisha pipes, deco, belly dancers, food and world music. It’s open till three in the morning, so you wont have to worry about where to go next, just wine and dine and relax and when you’ve had enough of that there’s even a fish spa on location. Or perhaps you can start with the fish spa, then wine, dine and relax afterwards. Tel: 64211586069

Yogi codeECOLUxE we’ar for conscious evolution designed in Auckland and made right here in Bali. Now that sounds like a plan. This extra stylish yoga street wear brand communicates 'essence' across its 2010 collection in an array of natural shades of slate and white. You can

plan to buy some for yourself at their yoga lifestyle store at the Bali Spirit Yoga shop in Ubud or now, thankfully, at their brand new store in Seminyak. Ph: 081236772207 www.we-ar.it

Como Sundays.

Terrace life.

Dandelion Opens Its Doors To UbudTHE fresh and beautifully created clothing, gifts and accessories from Dandelion are now available for all those fashionista kids between the ages of three and 10 up in Ubud. That’s right, they’ve just opened up a new store. Easy to wear and easy to care, Dandelion specialises in combining fine cottons and linens with whimsical prints to create breezy resort wear and smart city gear that will delight all. Perfect for play or just for those lazy days. Tel: 731159 www.dandelionkid.com

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Ku TwofOR those of you who might not have met a 'Ku night', it translates as cocktails, cocktails and more cocktails. One of the latest you will need to try is a cool radical twist on a timeless classic. A zesty fix of citron vodka shaken with a KDT homemade ginger sorbet and finished with a lime and ginger smoked ginger emulsion. Drink on...and if

you feel like having a go yourself, here's the recipe.KDT Asian “ Smoked Air” Gimlet 70 mls Citron 10 mls Lime Cordial Small scoop ginger sorbet Method – Shake & Strain Garnish – Top With Ginger & Lime Emulsion & Smoked Ginger Essence Glass – Martini Shake & Strain We do recommend however that you leave it to the experts and go straight to the bar. Let’s face it – it’s less complicated. Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.net

And Action...THE cast and crew of Eat, Pray, Love needed to do all three of the above when they came to film in Bali. The 'eating' need was masterfully fulfilled by BGf Catering who, along with their four restaurants Siam Sally, Batan Waru, Cinta Grill and Terazo, and their own organic herb farm, carted and cooked their way up and down the island to the delight of Julia Roberts et al...So if you have a private do on the cards just call BGf; if it's good enough for JR then it's definitely good enough for us. Tel: 285777 www.baligoodfood.com

Barcode YourselfIf you’re looking for a label or a new place to find yourself then you might like to head for Petitenget where Mediterranean restaurant, lounge, and tapas bar equals Barcode. Pull up a chair, order a drink and there you have it. Tel: 730629 www.barcodebali.com

One we didn't make earlier.

BGF does The Istana.

Righto Mr Light Box, can we start with your name, please?My name is Lucas Galliot.Any nicknames?Not really.Shame. And how old are you? I’m 28 years old.Tell us a little bit about yourself, where you are from and what brings you to Bali?I am from Paris, and my curiousity about the world and different cultures makes me always look further into what happens. My background is in martial arts, and my passion for surfing naturally brought me to Asia.Really, what kind of martial arts?I graduated as a teacher of Taichi and am the 2009 European champion.Good lord! Ok, so what makes you laugh? What makes you cry? Well, a good discussion with friends makes me laugh, one of those which inevitably ends up on a funny topic. Nothing makes me cry, my heart is ice – no, I am joking. Sadness in the eyes of a kid makes me sick.And your best childhood memory?That would be learning about the stars with my grandfather during summer nights in the south of france.Ok, tell us about The Light Box…what was your inspiration

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Lucas Galliot is the man with the heart of ice behind The Light Box, an innovative gallery that utilises backlit frames to explore new dimensions in photography. Interview by Lily Shipman. Photography by Laurence Laborie.

Charlestone.

behind the gallery and how did you get started with the project?I am from an artistic district in Paris, and I am lucky to be connected to a lot of designers and artists around me here in Bali. The project came about though an association of ideas, new experiences and as an evolution of the classical approach to exhibitions. The whole concept behind the gallery is not only to perform a perfect technical support of expression but also to associate with it a quality and an original feature of an image, picture or painting. for the frames we use old recycled teak wood and all the finishing is done by hand by local artisans. The idea behind the project is to mix local skills with the purest traditions of European fashion and design.Is The Light Box your first venture of this kind? Or are you an old hand when it comes to opening galleries?It’s my first, but I used to work in visual communication back in france for different cultural events. Which meant using images to support different kinds of events. The Light Box was the perfect connection to associate this knowledge with the love I have for a lot of different forms of visual expression.What can people expect from a Light Box exhibition? Top Parisian photographers? collaborations? Art Deco and Pop culture? People have to expect change, evolution, new experience and surprise. Our first exhibition focused on fashion. Works by Laurence Laborie are well known to be some of the best fashion photographs in Paris. Our new exhibition is a focus on a local artist who is going to work on the pictures of Yaz, who also used to be a painter before becoming a french fashion designer. Are we talking about the Yaz that has a shop next door to your gallery? Exactly. The light box is the art extension (in my point of view) of one of the most creative, dynamic and trendy fashion brands here in Bali.

Naked.

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Colour.

Venice.

Art.

Sweat.

"The whole concept behind the gallery...is to perform the perfect technical support of expression."

Heels.

Strass.

Pop.

Drift.

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You describe the gallery as an evolving concept, and mentioned that you have big plans for the year ahead…Soon we will begin to work with Ogut, who is going to perform directly inside the gallery for the next six months. He‘s going to use an original picture as a model and then let his talent speak for itself, making an evolution of the picture directly onto light boxes. So you will find one original painting and five prints of all pieces of his work.By directly, you mean that he is painting inside the gallery, onto the lightboxes, over images that have been created by Yaz?Yes. I consider his work here as a performance. Ogut will work on the light box, using different sorts of materials, using the Yaz pictures and paintings as an inspiration. Which means that Ogut will not copy a picture or a painting but he’ll create on it, using the support of a light box.Tell us a little bit about Ogut…How much do you want to know? He was born on the 8th of April 1974 in Surabaya to a Balinese mum and a Javanese dad. He began life in the art world in 1996, with an idea to create the social situation in art that "no one has a boss, only a dog". Mostly, the way that he arrives with a finished piece is to create some colour by himself, using the natural things that nature has offered to him.And now, after more than 15 years of hard work, self reflection and artistic maturity, The Light Box has offered him his first proper exhibition under his own name. That's how we try to work with our own possibilities, to be part of and to help the local community.What do you do when you’re not hanging out in art galleries and being a Taichi champion? As soon as I’ve got time here in Bali I go for a surf or cruise along the coast, but most of my time is spent here in the gallery taking care of customers and giving explanations about The Light Box project.Good luck with that Lucas. The images really are very powerful.Thank you.

Angel.

Max, your gallery features only photographs of water droplets...do you take these pictures yourself?Yes. Just me, in a pitch black studio, with the sound of dripping water. Sounds like torture, but it's actually lots of fun creating these images. And I do have the occasional flash of very bright light to keep me company.When did you start this endeavour?It all started one hot and steamy afternoon by the pool. Like a Harlequin Romance! But seriously, I was exploring Bali on my rented motorbike one sunny afternoon when the clouds rolled in. It started raining before I made it back to my budget hotel on Poppies II and I got soaked. I decided to jump in the pool. It was still raining hard, and I was swimming with the surface of the water at eye-level. for the first time, I saw the magic of a drop of water hitting the surface, splashing, crowning, rebounding and coming back down. I was captivated. I knew I needed flash photography to capture this marvel, so I came back to the pool that night with my camera in a zip lock baggie. It had stopped raining, but water was dripping from the thatched grass roof into the pool. It was then, almost seven years ago to the day, that I captured my first, rather crude, water drop shots. for the next few years, I did this rather unique type of photography as a hobby, while still practicing law in Canada. But friends and colleagues started asking to buy the images. I thought to myself that maybe this could be more than a sideline and I started dreaming of opening a gallery. Not too long after retiring from law, the dream became a reality.Technically, how do you do it?The pictures are taken in a studio with a digital SLR camera,

a macro lens and ultra high-speed flashes. In order to freeze the motion of the water drops doing their thing, the studio is in complete darkness. The only light is from the extremely short burst from the flash units, which lasts only 1/15,000 of a second. The flash units are fired by a timing device (called the Time Machine) which starts ticking when a drop of water falls through an infrared sensor. I can adjust exactly when the flashes fire, down to the nanosecond. That lets me capture whatever part of the drop sequence I want to focus on. The images are cleaned up in Photoshop, but no colours or shapes are changed or added. I am very strict about that – what you see in the images is pure nature and not computer- generated or altered. The images are printed with a large format printer and archival inks onto the highest quality canvas, and that's the end product. We roll and pack the canvas for transport, or frame the piece, depending on the wishes of the client. That's the technical side. The artistic side involves putting different things in the background, which are then reflected in the surface of the water and seen in the droplets. I use all kinds of things, like flowers, fabric, paper with interesting patterns, postcards, wooden bowls and other interesting objects. Depending on the background and which part of the drop sequence I capture, the feel of the piece can change dramatically. Where do you make the images?The art on display at Infinity Gallery right now is an international collaboration. The images were taken in my studio in Canada, where I lived at the time, but they are printed here in Bali, at the Gallery. My wife and I are building a house in Bali, and I will have a brand spanking

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Capturing the rain with Max Reinhold, the self-confessed, sometimes obsessed photographer with a passion for all things liquid.

Unlimited wonder.

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It's water...honest.

new studio there very soon. I'm looking forward to creating fresh, exciting new images in Bali because of the amazing variety of plant life here, as well as countless other interesting things to be used in the background. I plan to do custom-order work as well, where the client brings in a cherished object or photograph, and I use it to create bespoke art, so to speak. Who buys them?Our customers are tourists and expats alike. Infinity Gallery has a great location on Upper Monkey forest Road in

Ubud, so we get a lot of walk-by traffic. Our customers are of all ages – the art has a very wide appeal. I have

had a few young couples tell me that this is the first piece of "real" art they have bought, which is

especially gratifying. I'm also very proud that the art is hanging on walls all over the world, since

we've sold to people from over 40 countries so far.

How on earth did you get into this?I have always loved photography, and

especially macro-photography. Seeing Nature up close has long been a

personal fascination. I got my first camera as a gift from my father when I was only nine years old. During high school, I worked part-time in a camera shop and I had a darkroom at home. But I put photography on hold to go to law school and pursue a career. When the digital revolution was in its infancy, I decided to awaken this creative side of myself once again. The water drop concept was by far the most exciting and far-reaching project I had ever tackled, and it took over my re-emerging hobby. I would come home from work, eat dinner and then spend the rest of the evening in the studio, watching drops splash. This project also gave me the excuse I needed to buy more and more equipment,

which is a big part of any hobby. Anyhow, I loved photography then

and I still love it now, even though it is not just a hobby anymore. I see

that as a very good sign.Why in Bali?

Well, I just love Bali. My first trip here was in 1987, but I didn't make it back

again until 2003. It was still a magical island. During that visit, I met my future

wife, and I convinced her to move from

Austria to Canada. We had to escape the brutal Canadian winters, so we travelled lots, including coming back to Bali whenever we could. On one of our visits we started looking at land to build a home here. Then we found some commercial space, and started the almost two-year odyssey to renovate the space and open the gallery. I even lived in the gallery for a few months during construction. I loved seeing it all come together first hand, and living the struggling artist's life, sleeping in the gallery. The gallery space, by the way, thanks to our architect, Nengah Sarjana, turned out incredibly well. Again and again, people comment on the layout, the lighting and the overall pleasing "feel" of the place. Come decide for yourself.Do you take pictures of anything else?Yes, but not that many. I documented our construction projects (Gallery and Villa), but that wasn't terribly artistic. We have a beautiful 14-month-old boy, so my lens has been pointed at him quite a bit, especially when he was just tiny. My wife, who is also a photographer (specialising in maternity shoots, babies, weddings and event photography) takes most of the "normal" pictures in our household.What do the pictures mean to you, and why should we buy one?My art studies the fascinating microcosm of something quite simple – a drop of liquid falling into more liquid. It is something that happens around us thousands of times a day, or millions during the rainy season. I show that magical little process in a way the human eye cannot perceive it. I consider the images as a fusion of art and science; beautiful, educational and thought-provoking. Seeing this art will change the way you look at the world of water, and I think that is pretty cool.Why should we buy one? Well, beyond being an exposition of the glory and intricacies of Mother Nature, it's unique, exciting and versatile art. The variety of colours and shapes, as well as the feel of the art, from calm and serene to vibrant and bursting, are endless. There is a piece for every imaginable taste and decor. We print custom sizes, so you can choose what proportions work best for you. We can roll and pack pieces for you to take home, or frame them for hanging locally. In addition, our pricing structure provides great value. This is accessible art. You can walk out with a huge piece for well under $1,000, but still have exclusivity, because you are buying a signed, limited edition print, backed up by a Certificate of Authenticity. The art does make a statement, too. With the scarcity of water in the developed world becoming more of an issue every year, we all need to be conscious of conserving water. This art can be a gentle reminder of the importance of water to our very existence. So, as you can see, the reasons for owning one of these pieces of art, are, well, infinite. Max, many thanks for your time.The pleasure was all mine.

OK, this is how we usually start. Name please…My name is Ebon Heath.Anything else anyone likes to call you? A friend, a brother, a godfather, a hermit…hopefully a good person.And your age is?Every day I get older yet feel younger…but my birth certificate says 36.Heroes?Calder, Basquiat, Jimi Hendrix, Afrika Bambata, Peter Minshall, my friends and family.Where in the world are you from, and where do you find yourself today? I grew up between the green mountains of Woodstock (New York State, USA) and the urban density of New York City. from the hippies to the hood. I am currently working from Berlin, yet also have a partner for my jewelry project based in Dubai. The borders of the planet are starting to become less important, allowing our minds to collaborate when sometimes our bodies cannot. Tell us a little about how you got started, how did you know you were going to be the Ebon Heath you are today?I did not have television as a kid, so I was always drawing and collecting pictures from magazines. I was playing with transfer type and xerox until the computer became accessible. Pre-internet and iMac we found resourceful ways to communicate and design 'til we had our own studio and tools. Our friends made clothes, held parties and made music…and they became our clients. What was fun and a lifestyle became a profession. Where do you find your inspiration?I used to look to media and magazines and pop culture

imagery, yet now with the multiplicity of modern aesthetic choices I find myself more intrigued by nature and its perfect patterns and asymmetrical balance.What goes through your mind when you are creating? I usually have a clear series of steps that make up my working process. Since my background is based in design, even my more personal work needs to have a function or attempt to communicate a message or feeling that solves a problem. So instead of a purely expressive need, my work also attempts to be constructed of specific elements that have a new meaning when combined. Do you write the poems that you create your graphic mobiles with? Most of the lyrics for my mobiles are either from songs, literature or poems from authors or artists that have inspired me. I also write some of my own positive affirmation mantras for the jewelry project.Would you say that your art is political? I believe all art is political, and all of life has political impact. from the smallest choices of what to eat or how to spend money, to how you treat others and yourself. Since I work with letters, my artwork contains specific messages that evoke a reaction or demand closer inspection. To look at the small details in life and in my work, instead of always the big blurry picture…to look at all the working elements that makes a machine work may be a political perspective (without talking about politicians).can you tell me something that you have said in one of your mobiles that you might not have been able to say publicly?If I did not want to say it publicly, I guess I would not say it here either. But in general I have few secrets or hidden

magic in my work. It is all based on craft and construction techniques found in jewelry, fishing and building. Yet I did have an issue in Pakistan when I was trying to laser cut Arabic for my jewelry collection.S some countries are more sensitive to the power of the word.What will we be seeing at your Bali exhibition? Bali will be a new series of prints, a new installation and some pieces from my new jewelry collection.You have a range of ways that you express yourself artistically. Which of these is the most satisfying for you to create and at what times of day? Many have asked me recently how I see my professional role when I wear so many creative hats. I am a designer, a teacher, an artist and a problem solver. All my work is about communication. Sometimes I am the client, sometimes it’s a company or NGO. I am most selfishly satisfied by my personal work where I can allow my own voice to be heard. Yet my role as a university professor has made teaching a gift that is priceless to my own progress, as well as inspiring others to be excited about design and typography. I am a workaholic, there is never enough time in the day. I am always the last one in the studio. Life is short – no time to sleep.What does art mean to you?Art is a perspective, an appreciation for details, the concrete voice of an individual. It can be found in a lifestyle or a performance. In nature or in design. I do not believe art has to be limited to the old perspective of "fine art". Being an artist takes faith in yourself and the belief that amongst all the other voices that surround us we have something unique or important to say. I am not sure if being an artist is a choice as much as a way of thinking and seeing.

ebonheathStereo type. Lyrical design. Words suspended in time. call it what you will as Lily Shipman gets perspective and untangles the lyrics of New York word artist Ebon Heath, heading this way in April.

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Stripe by Ebon Heath.

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Circle by Ebon Heath.

I understood from your website that you believe that everyone has ideas. What is your advice for people who have ideas, but don’t know how to make them a reality?Start with one step, and do it over and over again till you master it. first try to hammer perfectly before you try to build a house. There are many resources that you can find online for free to help answer questions. But do not allow your own limitations of knowledge or money slow you down. Sometimes, when you have limitations, it forces you to be creative and try a new path that the luxury of knowing the "right" way does not show. You once described your visual poetry as wrestling with language, of transforming each letter into interlocking shapes that are unique in their form and the identity of the author. can you elaborate a little for us?This project began with trying to fuse the traditional language of typography and the physical language of the body, allowing our letters to break through the confines on the page to dance a duet with the reader. Especially in graffiti you can see each letter being unique, based off the surrounding letterforms. This makes each character specific for its function of expressing that word. Not just interchangeable parts, like old school metal type used for typesetting.It has been said that your work creates beautiful, visual noise. Do you agree?Yes. I love contradictions and fusing the senses. Beautiful noise, frozen speed, seeing sounds, tasting emotions. Because type is a representation of verbal sounds, it can be a silent crowd screaming, or a single whisper whose volume can be expressed visually.What can people learn by your concept of listening with their eyes? How do you do this, and do you have any advice for people that may not know how to do it themselves…When you listen carefully you can hear all the sounds in a room. Do the same thing with your eyes. Allow yourself to see everything as a song of interconnecting melodies. What happens when our senses are fused? Could we taste a shape? Smell a colour? This process happens all the time between our physical and mental worlds…how we are stimulated by one sense and react with another.Any words of wisdom that you are bursting to share with the world? Spread love and smiles daily. Don't forget your childhood dreams. Magic exists in our daily life. Play hard, work harder. Smile again.

Ebon Heath's exhibition Stereo.type runs until May 15th at Kendra Gallery, Jl. Drupadi, 88B Basangkasa, Seminyak.

www.kendragallery.com Yak Map ref. T10

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Fashion Editor: Caroline C

Model: Yulya LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.com

Hair & Make Up: Dima for LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.com

Assistant Hair and Make Up: Martina LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.com

Producer: Mira Humphrey / nouvellevaguela.com

Special thanks to Villa Niloufar

www.niloufar.com

Photography by Dustin Humphrey

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Lace & Zipper Bodysuit: K&IShoes: Studio Paras at NafsuNecklaces: Andriana at Ku De Ta Boutique and Wrkshp13 by Johnny Ramli (on the cuff)Veil: So clothe Boutique

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Left:Bodysuit: This Is GenevieveEarrings and Necklace: Isabel Encinias(www.isabelencinias.com)Bracelet: Stylist's ownMaxi Bag: Studio Paras at Nafsu This Page:Swimsuit: Ku De Ta BoutiqueNecklace: Wrkshp13 by Johnny RamliBracelet and Earrings: NafsuBag: Magali Pascal by Vintage century Boots: Niluh DjelantikHair Accessory: So clothe Boutique

This Page:Swimsuit: This Is GenevieveBracelet: Rodrigo Otazu collection at Ku DeTa BoutiqueBelt: Word Of MouthNecklace: Wrkshp13 by Johnny RamliScarf: K&Iclutch Bag: Uma and LeopoldRight:Bikini: cool and chic at So clotheBoutiqueMaxi Necklace: Word Of MouthBag: Natacha at Allegra ShopShoes: Magali Pascal by Vintage century Scarf: Wrkshp 13 by Johnny Ramli

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Nicolas, can you tell us a little bit about how you grew up and what has influenced you in life?I was born in North Africa, and was only three years old when my family had to move back to france. I grew up in a rather special cultural mix – North African traditions, a french/German father, a Spanish mother. He was working hard, she was singing all day long. We were a loving and laughing family. As a young man, for professional reasons I moved quite a lot and eventually settled in Paris where I spent 15 years in the marketing and communication industry. That gave me the opportunity to meet and work with the greatest international brands. It was probably during that period, and in my relationships with all the personalities who crossed my path, that I built up a certain form of estheticism.You run a furniture design business and a men's fashion label. How does that work?Before settling in Bali four years ago, I used to visit regularly like everybody else to enjoy the Balinese way and quality of life, but also to do some purchasing. Today, even though in my opinion some great values are unchanged (which I hope will remain for a long time) Bali is undergoing radical transformation, and the various cultures which are part of this transformation have, and will have in the future, differing needs and expectations, whether in terms of environment or in terms of consumer goods. That is why three years ago we launched Deefusion, an exclusive design concept. Original at the time, the idea has become totally current today. for our fashion label, Nico Perez, things are a bit different, even if our two business models meet the same criteria. The launch five months ago was really done on impulse, following our heart and instincts. We created a specific space for the label inside our showroom as it integrates very well esthetically, and we also have a range of customers potentially interested in both concepts.What's your philosophy on design?I have no design education, and therefore to me, design is indeed more a question of philosophy and instinctive feeling than the outcome of a work process or in-depth reflection. In today’s world everything is design…there is nothing left to consume that hasn’t been designed. So in the choices we make daily, somehow we all are the designers of our own existence. It’s an idea that I like…What makes your products different?Regarding furniture, I am lucky to be able to work with several talented designers, the most famous obviously being Kenneth Cobonpue. Their collections have allowed me to create a totally exclusive environment which includes indoor and outdoor lines. On the fashion side, I don’t want to talk about exclusiveness. As beautiful as it may be, a shirt remains a shirt, and I’d rather be lucid about it. Nico Perez is neither Zegna nor Cardin. Our cuts are

beautiful, our collections consistent, our linen quality exceptional, and our finish impeccable. Plain and simple.Who buys Nico Perez?Interestingly, Nico Perez is going through the same development process as Deefusion, only much more rapidly. When we launched the label, our customers were essentially tourists passing through Bali. Today, after only six months of activity, half of our clientele is made up of Bali residents. In the same time period, Nico Perez has become a unisex label – if men like to lend their shirts, women love to steal the shirts from them. So Nico Perez is a spirit that people enjoy sharing. Women like to appropriate the rather masculine spirit of our collections to re-create their own style. Where does the name Nico Perez come from?My first name is Nicolas, and my mother’s maiden name was Perez. Life did not grant me enough time to share some of my dreams with her. So I feel that Nico Perez is a nice wink to her.What's the most frequent comment people make about Nico Perez?I am always surprised at the relation our clients have with this label. for most of them Nico Perez has been here for a long time, and some are even convinced that they already bought a Nico Perez shirt elsewhere. I think our clients feel at ease and comfortable with the image of the label, and that they adopt it easily. As for our collections, customers are firstly surprised by the quality of the materials that we use. All our linens come from Europe, and their textures and colours are remarkable. There is a lot to say about linen, which today still is a noble material. To read what Marlene Dietrich wrote on linen is in itself a wonderful experience. So to me, to wear linen daily is perhaps quite simply a certain art of living.In what aspects of the label are you principally involved?Due to my marketing background, I am very attached to the image of Nico Perez. And I devote a good part of my time to building-up the Nico Perez spirit. This new adventure is above all a beautiful personal story that I would love to share.What's the best thing about doing business in Bali?We all have within us a dream garden, anyway I hope so. Bali is certainly one of the world’s rare places where, whatever one’s means, one is able to see part of one’s dreams come true, business dreams included.What advice would you give to someone starting a business here?To be patient and courageous.Should we follow the art or the money in life?If you come and visit our showroom, you will instantly have the answer to this question. Tel: 738308 Map ref S.8

Nicolas Bour is the force behind men's clothing line

Nico Perez...and a significant force for design in Bali. He spoke to Nigel Simmonds about his passions in life.

Photography by Dustin Humphrey.

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gigiGigi, someone told us you were 'Dutch Indonesian'. What does that mean?My mum and dad were born in Java – both are a mixture of Dutch and Indonesian. This came from the period of Colonial rule. Mixed breeds were known as Indo’s back then and most of my Indonesian blood comes from both grandmothers. I have the most beautiful photos of my great grandmother barefoot in a kebaya. I guess as a result this country’s past fascinates me, and I love the book Pramoedya Ananta Toer – “The Earth of Mankind”. That really captures how it was in the 19th century, and it gave me a good understanding of my heritage.Do you speak Dutch?I speak it but I don’t use it that often so it's not that great anymore, but I still fully understand everything. Growing up, my parents always spoke Dutch to us, the reason we didn't speak back is because at the time, living in Australia, we wanted to fit in with the Aussie kids and not be seen as foreigners. So when people ask you where you are from, what do you tell them?That really depends on whether I want to get into an in-depth conversation. I am proud of my ethnic background, so I usually tell people straight: born in Bermuda, with Dutch Indonesian parents, raised in Australia and NZ. I guess it would be easier to describe what you do...I’m Director of Sales and Marketing at Hatten Wines. It is a great job, a lot of diversity. I was instrumental in developing the labels of both Two Islands and the new look of Hatten Wines and I’m very proud of that. Of course the main focus for me is to sell wine. I love meeting with people and selling. Of late we have grown so much so it has been a bit of a headspin. It’s time to step back, look at the big picture and do things in a different way – strategically rather than reactionary. We have some awesome new members in our team; they are in the forefront of taking the company to the next level. What more can a girl ask for – working for a winery!When was the last time you were happy?This afternoon when I finished Bikram Yoga because…it

is challenging, rewarding and my dearest friends were in the class. And the last time you were sad?There's a snippet of sadness in me every day of my life right now because my daddy has not been well. Tell us about your parents...My mother is a very colourful woman – one of those people who can do anything. She is an amazing Indonesian cook – she had the first Indonesian restaurant in Auckland. People call her Ibu Irene. I took over the second restaurant but sadly did not inherit the cooking side. Much to her disappointment, I sold it. In her late 60s she started buying property and has quite a portfolio. Her vision is outstanding and she always fulfills her dreams. She considers herself an 'elderpreneur' – not entrepreneur. Very funny, crazy lady that eats a lot of hot, hot sambal. My father is a retired marine engineer, I thank him for the many adventures at sea, cruising around the Pacific Islands and hanging out in the engine room. favourite memory: watching him work with a cigarette dangling from his mouth, the long ash never dropping – just paralysed in mid air. I have never seen another man do that!Do you have kids of your own?No – I am under the aunty category and have two beautiful nieces in their 20s. I missed the boat on that one – too busy travelling the world and enjoying life.When did you start drinking wine?Gosh…probably at the end of high school, but it was not in copious amounts. My first wine was Mateus Rosé – because the bottle was pretty and the wine easy to drink.How would you compare Hatten wines to others from around the world?I think it stands up really well. It’s not high-end wine but that's not what Hatten is about. The wine is easy drinking – especially in this climate. Our Aussie winemaker has done an excellent job of fine-tuning the wines. They told him when he started not to change anything but now we laugh…because he ended up changing everything. So...for those of you that have not tried it in years, it’s time to

pop open a bottle and rid yourself of any pre-conceived notions. Don’t forget our second range, Two Islands – all so dangerously drinkable and the best part about it is that they are so affordable. We all know how ludicrous alcohol prices are here.Who owns the company? IB Rai Budarsa (Gus Rai). Demure and gentle with a very smart business sense. No foreign shareholders – Hatten Wines is proudly Balinese. Where does the name come from? That’s debatable, but the boss and some previous work associates believe that the word Hatten is Japanese for “Original”. The company is definitely that.What do you think others think of you?Others? I don’t really think it is my business to wonder about what others think of me and I don’t really care. As for my close friends and loved ones, I know what they think of me and I love them for their unconditional love and for keeping me grounded when the merry-go-round spins too fast.Do you believe in ghosts?Absolutely, and I am not scared. Ghosts can come in forms of energy, good and bad, whether it is a present or a repeated occurrence. I believe in the afterlife and different realms. This life as we know it is a fraction of our true lives to come. We are all in test mode. Is it all work, work, work with you?Oh dear…you need to ask my friends this question and they will say yes. But with my dad getting sick it has been a wake up call to bring back the balance of life, so I am learning to be more gentle on my soul and to play more.What's your best hangover cure?I would like to think I know my limit and then switch to water, which is the best cure, but when you do have one of those wickedly funny nights out, I think the best cure before bed is a Berocca and a Panadol. It works like magic. Hey, just because I work in the wine industry does not qualify me to be a lush!Gigi, thanks for your time...You're welcome – it’s an honour to be in The Yak.

Gigi van Kuijk, the sales and marketing master of Hatten Wines, talks ghosts, hangover cures and how loving wine doesn't necessarily make you a lush. Interview by Hannah James.

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Gigi van Kuijk, by Dustin Humphrey.

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Fabrizio Alessi, by Dustin Humphrey.

He’s the originator of post atomic men’s clothing line, Skin. And he rides a big green motorbike. Ladies and gentlemen, Mr Fabrizio Alessi.

Fabrizio, you're a well-known member of Bali's fashion community...when did you first arrive on the island?I arrived in Bali in 1989…when I was still a pure and beautiful baby. Do you have a history in fashion? Yes. I design clothes for punk rockers (mostly my friends). I wouldn’t call it fashion, just rags…that’s what I’m doing…designing rags! I started to work as designer for a couple's independent Italian label. Always street wear, always fun.Some people say there are not enough men's clothes available here. Why is that, do you think?Man, in the ‘old’ Bali days we didn’t even need to wear clothes. Just board shorts and t-shirts were enough. But now things have changed. Men want to be cool and smart, and Skin tries to satisfy all this. What's important about men’s clothing, as opposed to clothes for women?Men want practical clothes, light material, cotton never polyester, earth colours.Which do you prefer to design for – the boys or the girls?Boys. But I also have fun with women's… clothes.What's the most important thing about making a good t-shirt?The fit, number one, and the print, which has to be in line with the modern thinking.Do you design all the clothes yourself or is it a collaborative effort?We work as team. I always like to have different opinions.

What do you look for when choosing fabric?I don’t like synthetic fabrics. I hate to sweat in a plastic shirt, so I try to work with only natural materials.Who is your favourite clothes designer?Vivienne Westwood.Does music have an influence on your clothes?Of course. Everything starts with rock ’n’ roll, and then continues in the same rhythm.And now we want to know…do you believe in God?I do believe in God. I think of all of us as God…it’s just hard to remember, especially when I am upset!What's a regular day for you?Café, surf, yoga, work.Where do your ideas come from for Skin?Many sources…magazines, travel, or just watching people on the street.I want to be a fashion designer. What should I do first?Come on…you don’t want to be a fashion designer, you want to be an astronaut! Or a doctor, or a chef, a pimp…or maybe somebody who is good for society.Fabrizio, thanks for your time. It’s been illuminating.

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p h o t o g r a p h y : D u s t i n H u m p h r e y

Jacket: K&IPants and Scarf: ReligionTop: So clothe BoutiqueBoots: Doc Martens

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Jacket Top and Suspenders: So clothe BoutiqueUnderwear: Miss MilneShoes: Magali Pascal by Vintage centuryNecklace: Para Owak

Left:Shirt: Magali Pascal

Jacket: So clothe BoutiqueScarf: Wrkshp 13 by Johnny Ramli

Bracelets: Otazu at So clothe BoutiqueShoes: Model's own

Right:Bolero and Dress: Uma & Leopold

Sarouel Denim Pants: Please

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Shirt and Bandana: The TokoPants: Studio Paras

at NafsuShoes: Niluh

DjelantikWatch: Oyster

Perpetual Air King by Rolex

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Tunic: ReligionTube Top: So clothe BoutiqueLeggings: K&IHat: The TokoBoots: Doc MartensBracelet: Otazu at So clothe Boutique

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Right:Yulya (left) :

Dress: Lily JeanShoes: Magali Pascal by Vintage century

Alyona (right) :corset and Underwear: Miss Milne

Boots: Model's own

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Yulya (left): Waistcoat: Magali Pascal

Pants: Natacha at Allegra ShopBracelets: 12:00 Pm Bling and Fafu

at So clothe BoutiqueAlyona (right) :

cardigan, Bra and Skirt: Lily JeanNecklace: Model's Own

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Yulya (left): Jacket and Sarouel Pants: Natacha at Allegra ShopBag and Shoes: Magali Pascal by Vintage century

Hat: Maison Michel ParisAlyona (right):

Metal Studs Dress: So clothe BoutiqueBracelet: Otazu at So clothe Boutique

Boots: Model's own

Fashion Editor: Caroline C

Models: Alyona for LVDK Productions /

l-v-d-k.com; Yulya LVDK Productions /

l-v-d-k.com

Hair & Make Up: Dima for LVDK

Productions / l-v-d-k.com

Assistant Hair and Make Up: Martina

LVDK Productions / l-v-d-k.com

Producer: Mira Humphrey

With thanks to Paasha,

www.paasha.com

W i n e I n t oWat e rA humbled Katrina Valkenburg takes a sober look at the effects of not drinking enough water when on the plonk. Bugger.

THIS article is about the substance that constitutes up to 70 percent of the planet and 90 percent of wine – H2O…water. I want to tell you about my Boxing Day nightmare and, as a result of my big mouth and lack of modesty, the discovery that others could relate similar experiences.

It began, as usual, with a glass of water, two cups of coffee and, not so usually, a bowl of home-grown pineapple. An hour passed and I was suddenly feeling very unwell. Without going into gruesome details, I spent the next three-and-a-half hours heaving in my bathroom before one of my staff found me and off we went to the hospital. Next came the usual treatment, blood tests, etcetera and so forth, followed up with the most unexpected diagnosis – nearing on severe dehydration.

Two litres of saline solution and eight hours later I was home feeling very sorry for myself. On top of that, I was humiliated and embarrassed. I’m a middle aged, vaguely intelligent woman who has been living in the tropics for four years. I drink copious amounts of water and am aware of the importance of keeping oneself hydrated.

How could this have happened?The long and the short of it was that Christmas Day

was typically, for Bali, extremely hot. Atypically, but for the third Christmas in a row, the wet season had yet to break. I drank at least three glasses of water before moving next door for lunch. It was stiflingly hot and there was not a breath of a breeze all day. Perhaps I had four glasses of Champagne (lucky me) to start the day off in a festive way and then we moved over and on to the lunch table.

It was too hot to either drink very much alcohol or overeat. We fanned ourselves most of the afternoon, swam, laughed and made jolly. I came home around 9pm, had another glass or two of wine and went to bed.

Waking up on Boxing Day was relatively painless. I had no hangover and was rather chuffed by that fact. I spoke with my Christmas host to thank him for a wondrous day and he commented on how little we had consumed, having counted the empties that morning.

Soon after, the heaving began. Looking back now, I realise that I drank no water after

midday on Christmas Day.Having pondered on the fact that 90 percent of wine is

actually water, I wondered why that last 10 percent could be so damaging. Of course, alcohol is a diuretic and your kidneys are therefore stimulated to filter out the water as fast as possible.

This is where the nasty cycle begins. As a result of expelling the wine, you become thirsty and hence drink more…alcohol, in many cases. Around and around it goes, drinking more, peeing more, drinking more until finally the kidneys have had enough and simply give up doing their job.

When I mentioned to the doctor that I was incredibly thirsty she told me that I was extremely lucky. Unlucky (read foolish) to be in hospital in the first instance but lucky because if I had not been thirsty it would have been a sign of it all being too late. Once you’re severely dehydrated you are not thirsty anymore. Your organs all decide to give up and you die!

In conversation with a friend, I discovered the opposite to dehydration – a condition not nearly as common but one just as damaging – water intoxication. You can actually drown by drinking too much water – mostly seen in babies less than six months of age and athletes.

Water intoxication is a situation where too much liquid enters the body’s cells; the tissues swell up with excess fluid resulting in the dilution of sodium in the body, which can result in a problem known as hyponatremia.

This is what happened to my friend while she lay in hospital with an open stomach wound – she continually drank water and over a period of a week, blew up to three times her normal size. Even her fingers and nether regions became bloated.

So how much water is ideal for a healthy adult?The answer lies in where you live and what you do

and whether you are taking medications that may be

dehydrating. Most healthy adults process 15 litres of fluid a day through their kidneys. But obviously if you live in the tropics, the desert, or are exercising, you will require more than what is considered normal.

Normal means around three litres of fluid a day but we do get quite a lot of that from the food we eat. Hence, the old adage of “6-8 glasses a day keeps the doctor away” is about right.

Unless you live in the tropics, drink alcohol and dance. In this instance, you are sweating out just about as much fluid as you’re consuming and, on top of that, you’re losing vital salts to boot.

Bottled water is not the solution when you become dehydrated, as it’s virtually sterile and hence has none of the essential electrolytes to re-hydrate your body. If you’re feeling listless, headachy or faint, the best thing to do is to drink Pocari Sweat or Gatorade or other such ‘sports’ drinks.

As I spoke of my Boxing Day nightmare, I discovered that I was not the only one who ended up in hospital over the Christmas period. Two friends (small mouths) were on the same treatment a few days before, and, having spoken with a couple of nurses in Bali, treatment for dehydration over the period could have numbered a couple of hundred. In fact, Bali International Medical Centre treats a couple of cases every day.

One also needs to remember that air-conditioning is dehydrating, hence the need to drink lots of water whilst flying and/or on arrival at your destination.

And the moral is: You’re never too old to learn one of life’s fundamental lessons.

And the upshot is: Drink well and drink often. Water and wine that is.

Wine on.

Katrina Valkenburg is a wine consultant and educator. All inquiries to katrinav@mac.com.

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Somebody once said that “cookery has become a noble art, a noble science; cooks

are gentlemen”. More than that, what a good cook can produce in the kitchen and

present to you on a plate is the equal of any Mona Lisa or Starry Night in terms of

creative talent and artistry. Only infinitely more palatable and a lot more immediate in

satisfying the senses. Eat your heart out, da Vinci and van Gogh, there’s a new breed of

artist in town: all hail the chef. Hannah James speaks to seven of Bali’s best.

Photography by Dustin Humphrey

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IT was famous french chef and restaurateur Marcel Boulestin who proclaimed that “cookery is not chemistry. It is an art.” Something which requires “instinct and taste rather than exact measurements.” Something which also requires imagination, passion and a different way of looking at simple ingredients. We’re sure the chefs featured on these pages would agree.

What’s more, whoever tries to tell you that ‘music be the food of life’ clearly has never eaten from the kitchen of one of these culinary maestros chefs with a grand passion for food, glorious food, and the art of cooking because if he or she had, they’d know that food be the food of life. Like, duh.

Not just any food can lay claim to that honour, mind you. Some food is mere sustenance for the body. for food to be sustenance for the soul too, it needs to be approached with some sort of reverence; a sense of wonder – flavours lovingly coaxed out of every ingredient, no matter how everyday or seemingly ordinary; a certain adherence to discipline; a commitment to simplicity, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves…and a set of very sharp knives. Who better to explain this ‘food as art’ concept, though, than the chefs themselves…

Mateu Batista Magaem, Anantara Seminyak Bali & Hostal Sa Tuna, Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain

Michele Greggio, Jimbaran Puri Bali Giordano Faggioli, Ayana Resort and Spa Bali Phillip Davenport, Ku Dé Ta Brandon Huisman, The Balé Dean Keddell, The Samaya(s), Ubud and Seminyak Simon Robert Blaby, Karma Kandara Resort

MATEU BATISTA MAGAEM – ANANTARA SEMINYAK BALI & HOSTAL SA TUNA, cOSTA BRAVA, cATALONIA, SPAINYears in the kitchen: 25Most interesting kitchen you've ever worked in: My current kitchen, Sa Tuna. It’s by far the most interesting because, as a professional chef, this establishment and kitchen has enabled me to deliver some of the highest levels of cuisine presentation in my career. Conditions are fantastic! It is also rare to work with a boss who really invests his personal effort and finances into developing my career and to make sure I have the right resources to deliver fantastic traditional Catalonian cuisine with a touch of modern influence and Mateo magic. cooking is without doubt an art...describe the art you produce in your kitchen: I guess it comes down to my motivation, which is my happiness for my customers. My Art comes from my passion for creating a great surprise for guests, through the use of colours, flavours, textures and tastes. I put the time in because it is truly my passion to love food, eat food and give people the real authentic flavour of my country. In tangible terms, sourcing the best ingredients is the difference to making great art or not.Signature dish/style: I have many dishes on my menu which are fantastic, however my particular favourite style, whether for guests or for myself at home, is to simply take any meat I feel like eating and prepare it wood fired. In particular wood fired seafood...lobster, prawns, whole fish finished with a Spanish olive oil and Mediterranean crystal salt. fantastic and very simple.Things I hate in the kitchen...Colleagues who are not passionate. No thanks! In my kitchen you need to share the passion or you need to work somewhere else.

Things I love in the kitchen...All. It is my life. I don’t work like a ‘chef’, I work like a cook. The kitchen is my life, and food is my passion, my wife, my brother, my family. My love for the kitchen and food is so much a part of me it is hard to separate.My philosophy on food is...The only thing necessary in life. Making food for people is my business, and the food in my life is my partner. food should bring people together and I love helping the process happen.

MIcHELE GREGGIO – JIMBARAN PURI BALI Years in the kitchen: 16Most interesting kitchen ever worked in: four Seasons, Berlin. It was my first experience outside my home country, a multicultural kitchen with staff from all around the world. And the chef there was the one who allowed me to discover the culinary ‘art’.Describe the art you produce in your kitchen: Contemporary, combining Western techniques with local spices to showcase my personal brand of culinary innovation.Signature dish/style: Caramelised Curried Scallops on Spinach Cream with Organic Herbs and Parma Ham...just to name one. My style is to breathe in the freshness of the seasonal ingredients and then add an innovative twist.Things I hate in the kitchen...Taking short cuts on the job and not following set directions.Things I love in the kitchen...Care for the work and the gratification I feel when I see my young chefs learning my style with passion.My philosophy on food is...It is my belief that the simplicity of using fine ingredients that have been lovingly

created is the key to great cooking. Working with organic farmers who value the earth and the body has taught me so much. Most of all, I have learned that we really are what we eat. I believe in putting positive energy into food.

GIORDANO FAGGIOLI – AYANA RESORT AND SPA BALIYears in the kitchen: 24, including pot and dishwashing and at the counter gutting fish!Most interesting kitchen ever worked in: My home when cooking for family and friends, because I get to join the meal.Describe the art you produce in your kitchen: An excellent balance of emotions.Signature dish/style: I don’t have a signature dish, but I definitely have a style, which is cooking without altering the original flavours of the ingredients I am using to create or prepare a dish.Things I hate in the kitchen...Compromising.Things I love in the kitchen...The service time with its rush and adrenaline.My philosophy on food is...fresh, simple, authentic… served with an original approach.

PHILLIP DAVENPORT – KU DÉ TA Years in the kitchen: 15Most interesting kitchen ever worked in: Gordon Ramsey’s kitchen in London for two days. Just seeing that high level of food was very interesting to me.Describe the art you produce in your kitchen: We try and keep up with what’s going on in the world in terms

"Cooking is without doubt an art... desCribe the art you produCe in your kitChen: Contemporary art, Combining western teChniques with loCal spiCes to showCase my personal brand of Culinary innovation."

With an ear to the ground Lily Shipman went in search of all things green.

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RAW NATURE FARMS/DR ROcKET’S, Pancasari. Anyone who has scanned the shelves of Bali’s supermarkets will have laid eyes on Dr Rocket’s range of organic herbs and salad mixes. from ruccola to baby spinach leaves, to organic edible and culinary flowers, herbs and spices, the whole range is packed fresh and delivered straight to your supermarket, always ready for a hungry shopper like yourself to grab from the shelf. Even better is the fact that Dr Rocket’s is just one brand in an incredible array of organic produce offered by Raw Nature farm in Pancasari. The whole thing started back in 1995 when a young Marco, who had recently finished a Doctorate in Tropical Agriculture, arrived in Bali with a love of fresh healthy food, bought a plot of land, and began the first organic salad farm on the island. Since then, Marco has been christened by the moniker Marco Ruccola, and built an organic farm that local chefs, both home and professional alike, have bowed down to in pure appreciation. Now, 15 years later, we are free to select from a range of vegetables and greens, including silverbeet, Italian eggplant, nasturtium leaves and rhubarb that have been carefully grown, hand picked and sorted to order directly at the farm. And, if you’re ever stuck for ideas on what to do with his fine array of produce, Marco will happily give you a few pointers. Who could ask for more? Tel: 0362 25415

GOLDEN LEAF FARM, Bedugul.Another product that can easily be found in all the local supermarkets is the fresh veggies and herbs grown by the friendly folks from Golden Leaf farms. from lettuce to sprigs of heavenly smelling herbs, the items that come packed fresh and delivered straight

to your door or supermarket shelf are often highly recommended by several of our chef friends around the island for their crispy crunchy leaves and, as they happen to produce a variety of over 80 different kinds, it is easy to understand why. We’ve found that their little boxes of basil are perfect for a simple tomato pasta, the coriander goes really well with a bowl of freshly made Vietnamese soup, salad greens are aplenty and no-one is complaining when you need some mint to go with that Mojito you’re making to have whilst you prepare your dinner. Mmmm, Mojitos. Did we say they grew veggies as well? Well, if we didn’t, they do. Tel: 237643

BIG TREE FARM/ISLAND ORGANIcS, Bedugul.We’re not sure about a big tree, we haven’t laid eyes on it ourselves, but Big Tree farms does have a lot of great big plots of land and production centres dotted, not only in Bali, but also around other parts of Indonesia. Thanks to entrepreneurs Ben and Blair Ripple, you can now get your hands on organic and authentically raw cashews or premium verifiable and traceable raw, organic, conventional or kosher cocao beans harvested in food forests. Don’t go thinking about buying plain old table salt either, because you will be missing out on Bali’s four-sided coarse-grain hollow pyramid salt. According to the Balinese, these salt crystals are made by the hand of God, and, if the delicate subtle salt flavour is a backup of this statement, then we’ll believe them. Next up on the shopping list is the ever popular Bali Long Pepper, a must-have item in five-star kitchens across the island; or the pure unadulterated coconut palm sugar, made with 100 percent coconut palm nectar from Coco Nucifera, the

green coconut tree. The good news is that it’s a low glycemic sweetener, and therefore perfect for organic dieting. You can give them a call if you are in need of an organic vegetable delivery, or run down to the supermarket and buy a bottle of their scrumptious tropical spiced honey…as they say, even in the Big Tree farm offices…just a spoon full of sugar makes the medicine go down. Yum. Tel: 461978

BALI RUNGU ORGANIc FARM, Bedugul.If you like your organics to be grown with heart, hard work and the pure principle that healthy eating is right, then it’s worth having a look at the vegetables grown by Gede Green at Bali Rungu Organic farm. Some people find him by going direct to the Ubud farmers Market or they give him a call for a home delivery. He doesn’t deliver all the way to Seminyak just yet, but he does get to both Sanur and Ubud, and he will consider any trip worthwhile if enough people make enough requests. Bali Rungu Organic farms are found on two different properties around the Bedugul area where, although not officially certified, all fruits, vegetables and other plants are grown completely without chemicals, pesticides and fertilizers. He’s got everything, or just about, that you might need in your day-to-day cooking, from salads to herbs, seasonal fruit such as tamarillo and sweet pineapple, to broccoli and English spinach. What you’ll get is a box of goodies, hand-delivered straight from the garden to your door. If you’re lucky he might even give you one of the t-shirts he made to raise money to buy a truck for the farm a couple of years back. Tel: 0813 3872 1705

SARI ORGANIc, Ubud.After moving to the rice paddies around

15 years ago, Oded and his veritable 'home of organic rice for sale' was originally conceived as a community project to grow non-chemical rice and vegetables and to teach local Balinese about non-chemical farming. Organic vegetables and herbs grown by Sari Organic are delivered to restaurants and individual customers in the Ubud area and the good news is that they have now landed on the bypass road that runs toward Seminyak from Bali Galleria. But rice isn’t the only thing that they have to offer, a walk around their pretty little farm will see you staring at, picking, eating and running home with everything from spinach, cherry tomatoes, kale, arugula, and basil to lettuce. You might also ask to have some tomato sauce, pesto, pickles, tempe, yoghurt, milk and cheese made from soybeans. If you want to order, or ask nicely for a home delivery, you can take a walk through the ricefields to the farm, or give them a call. Word to the wise, they also make mango jam and palm wine. Tel: 975615, 971337

MY OWN FARM/BIO LAND BALI Together, these separate but integrated businesses form the other side of the supermarket shelves. My Own farm produces an array of teas that will certainly keep your grandma happy when she comes to visit including Ashitaba, Rosella, Red Rice Tea…then they have Red Rice Coffee, and a selection of other products for your pantry such as sun dried tomatoes, nutmeg candies and even nutmeg jam. Or, you can stock up on the Bio Land Bali selection of organic eggs, rice, whole wheat and palm sugar. Phew, and all at the same number and usually found at all the usual supermarkets. Perfect. Tel: 7451020

d’ horniest & d’ most well-hung…Topless Zero-Fat Wagyu Tenderloin Burger...

12 am ~ 12 pm 8 days a week4 y r O r a l P l e a s u r e

W a h W a h B u r g e r C h a m p a g n e W i n e B a r + B o t t l e S h o p

Somewhere b’tween KuDeTa & d’ Legian Hotel m +62 (0) 818 34 9809

The Bali Hyatt in Sanur calls to us from a gentler – and greener – time. By Tony Stanton.

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Wantilan Cafe, courtesy of Bali Hyatt.

Sitting pretty.Yaeko Masuda.

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Rooted in tradition – Wijaya's gardens at the Bali Hyatt.

BALI has no shortage of classics. There’s a pedigree here that’s born out of a long history of collaboration between foreign visitors to the island and indigenous people, architecture and culture – it is this that sets the island apart from other ‘destinations’ in Asia. To rediscover these classics is one of the joys of a long exposure to Bali.

No one would argue against including the Bali Hyatt in Sanur – with its gardens set in 1981 now forming a veritable botanic heaven – in this category. Beautifully tended, the original landscaping and planting was done by Made Wijaya of Wijaya Landscape, the pioneer of the 'Tropical Costwolds' and 'Classic Courtyard' styles here. The grounds are expansive, thorough and – nearly 30 years on –a delight for birds, squirrels and no doubt a host of other nocturnal beings that dwell there under the cover of night.

Wijaya says of his style that it “takes advantage not only of the exuberant potential of local tropical plants but of English traditions of textural contrasts and bright accents…and a talent I developed for making tropical naturalism look artful.”

There’s more to this Geoffrey Bawa-designed hotel than it’s impressive gardens. It was built on a scale that is no longer seen. The gardens lead into two large pools and through to the beach and the sea. It spreads handsomely over the space and hugs the ground, making way for Balinese temples, sacred trees and, of course, restaurants and bars, including the Wantilan Café, Omong Omong Grill and the Pizza Ria…one of the best informal pizza-on-the-beach combinations you could find anywhere.

Standard rooms are perhaps smaller than one would expect of a newer property, but the Bali Hyatt was built at a time when space was defined in gentler proportions. They have a wood cabin feel that promotes romanticism; balconies look out to the sea and the verdant landscaping that cries out to be explored in a sarong and thongs. If it’s a more indulgent experience you crave, the Club King rooms boast almost 40-square metres of luxury on a private concierge floor with plush king bed and lavish decor featuring Balinese artifacts, teak and traditional batik. A large sitting area opens onto a private furnished balcony offering more of those tranquil garden views. Amenities include marble bath with separate shower and access to a private lounge serving Continental breakfast, evening cocktails and hors d'oeuvres.

If it’s activities you’re after here there’s more than enough to tempt you away from the pool lounger. The Spa is an award-winning sanctuary but our favourite ‘do something today’ event is to rent a bicycle and simply cruise up and down the beachfront in Sanur, still one of the nicest low impact rides on the entire island. It brings Sanur into focus in all its local wonder.

The garden-restaurant symbiosis continues across the road with the Bali Hyatt’s signature Chinese restaurant, serving authentic Cantonese and Szechuan cuisine. The vernacular architecture of the alang-alang roofed restaurant sits beautifully with Wijaya’s creation, the perfect example of how, in Bali, the importance of landscape is one of the most powerful and seductive components of the Bali hotel experience. Long may it thrive.

www.bali.resort.hyatt.comYaeko Masuda.

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Pretty in pink, by Yaeko Masuda.

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If you've come to Bali to find peace then, some say ,

head East. After that, all that's left to do is book a room.

Photography by Yaeko Masuda.

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WE rolled out of Sanur with its bypass traffic and fast food outlets and onto a sublime new road (dangerous drivers notwithstanding) heading east, to that part of Bali that always brings tranquility to my mind. Our destination was Manggis and the Alila hotel, a property that has been through a major name change over the years but remains sublimely rustic, natural and accommodating in a way only Bali can be.

Set around a simple coconut grove that fronts the beach, the property is blessed with an Old World charm that keeps it essentially simple – it reminds me of a Malaysian colonial rest house: two wings of up-and-down rooms covered by a steep alang-alang roof, sitting there shading us in the sun. The pool sits in the middle of the grove and the superb restaurant is off to one side, and that’s pretty much it, or so it seems. But there’s more to this hotel than meets the eye.

There’s Seasalt, for starters, the hotel’s restaurant and an organic haven headed by Executive Chef Penny Williams, something of a culinary legend in eastern parts, and not shy of a day that might include chopping garlic with 40 Balinese village men in order to discover the best way to prepare a certain local dish (an ordeal she has been known to say was a breeze compared to working for Gordon Ramsey as the only female chef in a brigade of 100 men at London’s Savoy Hotel).

One of her central culinary passions is the Alila Manggis Cooking School, the only East Balinese specialty programme on the island in which Alila chefs celebrate and share with guests the essence of Balinese lifestyle through various culinary adventures to the island’s heartlands, oceans and local villages. To Penny it is not simply the creation of a delicious meal that is important from these trips. "As I learn more and more about traditional Balinese cookery and the cultural importance of food,” she says, “I understand that to be content in one's self it is essential to fuel the body with the correct substances." This holistic approach reflects much of the thinking that is currently producing amazing

Lazy days.

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Gone fishing.

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menus in top restaurants across the globe. "Through my efforts to create a menu that is truly honest to the produce used,” she says, “I intend on serving simple, unadulterated dishes that will celebrate the ingredients' curative value and offer a healthy and internally satisfying experience."

East Bali also offers the proximity to Candi Dasa of course, and places of interest that include the Bali Aga village of Desa Tenganan, established before the first millennium where modernism barely exists. A self-sourcing, independent community, complete with its own government, traditions, crop fields and cattle, Tenganan is somewhat famous for keeping it all in the family, as it were – people do marry outside of the confines of the tribe but once they do they cease to be included in the coordinated distribution of basic needs such as rice and housing. To date there are around 30 purebred families left in the total of 250 families living inside the small town.

Tenganan is famous too for its double ikat handwoven cloth, material that can take more than three years to produce just one-and-a-half metres of fabric. This is because the thread is handmade from organic cotton harvested from their own village and tinted with all natural dyes made from turmeric, indigo juice and other seeds. The creation process itself takes approximately three to four weeks and the making of these weavings is considered sacred, as are the weavings themselves.

Another historical must-see while in the Candi Dasa area is Tirtagangga Water Palace, a majestic complex built in 1946 composed of flowing streams, lush greenery and elegant sculptures. Owned by the Royal family of Karangasem, this palace is located in the midst of a paddy field and gets its water from the natural springs. The water from the springs at Tirta Gangga is considered to be holy and is collected for ceremonies at nearby temples.

There’s more too, but it’s time to head back to civilisation after our three-day stay. We retreat once more from the green peaks of East Bali and traverse rivers back to Sanur and the motorbike madness. It’s been a short trip, but enough to change and refresh our views once more…and remind us that Bali is a healthy composite of many parts, and east of its Edens remain among the most gratifying.

www.alilahotels.com

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Penny's magic.

J o i n c l u bThere’s change afoot in the rice fields of canggu, with a new guard joining the club. The canggu club to be specific. And their motto could very easily be: ‘Who says you can’t teach an old dog new tricks?’ Text by Hannah James. Photography by Dustin Humphrey.

SIPPING on a gin and tonic, ice tinkling against sparkling glass, slice of lemon present and accounted for. All the while taking in a spot of cricket, my dear. It’s rather a colonial picture, what, what? Now transplant this picture to tropical climes, Bali in particular, the glass sweating, the cricket players even more so, and you’ve got the Canggu Club…or, actually, what most people think is the Canggu Club.

To be sure, everybody has heard of the Canggu Club, but there seems to be this pervading image of the club as some monolithic throwback to a time when gentlemen wore safari suits and ladies were required to drink their ladylike gimlets in a separate lounge.

The truth of the club is actually far more accessible, far more real. Less British Empire, white-glove-ruled India, and more real people looking for an outlet for excess energy. It's all about sweat and blood people looking for decent sporting and recreational facilities – and perhaps a comfy chair to sink weary limbs into after the fact. Gin and tonic optional.

“We are not the ‘upper crust’ or elite part of Bali that some people may see us as,” insists President Director James Wynne. “We are simply a place where you can come and relax with your family, watch some live sport in our pub, bring your wife or girlfriend for dinner, or have a hit of tennis with a friend.” In short, Canggu Club is “a family friendly establishment aimed at catering to specific needs. Essentially we are a sport and recreational club that offers facilities not seen anywhere else in Bali.”

In fact, very few people seem to know the full extent of the club’s facilities. The Club offers “everything from Bali’s best gym and fitness centre; the island’s best tennis and squash courts; a floodlit international size football pitch; 25 meter swimming pool; bars; a restaurant; as well as a number of new child-related services and

facilities such as our kids sports academies,” explains Wynne. Canggu Club is also home to the Canggu Community School, offering kids, and parents, acres and acres of space – 4,000 square metres of space to be exact – to expend energy and breathe in the magic of this island. Something which is all too easy to forget when you’re surrounded by motorbikes on crowded highways and tiny side roads.

Canggu Club came into existence in 2006 after a gentleman by the name of Steve Kenny had a vision. (Okay, so maybe it wasn’t anything as world-shattering as ‘I have a dream’ Martin Luther King’s vision, but a vision it was nonetheless.) Kenny, who had been living in Bali for some years, felt that something was missing in terms of the island’s social and business landscape. “He was a visionary and knew what he wanted from a private members club and for the island,” Wynne reminisces. And so Kenny set about the business of securing investment and before long was in the process of building his dream, turning it into brick-solid reality.

Unfortunately Steven Kenny would become ill with cancer just after the inception of Canggu Club, with the result that his club would turn a corner into some “very difficult times,” as Wynne admits. “We had a number of General Managers, staff turnover was high and financially the place was suffering. Just prior to Steve’s passing, though, about 18-months after opening the doors, we came in with the hope of restoring the Club and making Steve’s vision a reality.” Since then, new management has improved the facilities, increasing membership from 300 to a little over 750 and “really just living out Steve’s plan. I think he would be pretty happy,” says a hopeful Wynne.

Naturally the vision that originally spurred Kenny on has evolved with the change in management and the passing of time. Just as with the end of Colonial

rule, there’s a new guard in town. “It was obvious when we took over that we had to breakdown the negative perceptions out there about the club,” reveals Wynne. “We had to diversify and transition into new markets; know how to find new customers in niche markets; and at the same time drive simultaneous change and stability in order to grow. We have done all those things and yet we are still evolving and reinventing ourselves. You have to.”

Along with what Wynne calls “incredible growth”, what the new guard has brought with it is change. “We will continue to enhance our many services, further develop our soccer, tennis, gymnastic and swimming academies and concentrate on adding commercial value to all of the 130 or so villas that have joined the club over the past 12-months,” adds Wynne. Villa membership, in particular it seems, is becoming an increasingly sought after asset amongst those selling holiday accommodation to tourists. Whatever it is they’re doing, it seems their overall idea “to cater to the needs of families living, and even just holidaying, in Bali, while also adding value to businesses and commercial properties,” is working.

“It’s hard to say what it is about the club that is making it increasingly popular,” reflects Wynne. “So many members join for so many different reasons. for some it’s the social networking and friendships that come along with the club; for others it’s the tennis, fitness and sporting facilities. And obviously we also draw in a lot of families as this is an integral part of the Club.”

Then, of course, there is still always the option for that gin and tonic, even if it isn’t served by someone wearing white gloves. It tastes all the better for it too.

www.cangguclub.com Yak Map ref N.1

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Facilities beyond the norm.

Sinaran Surga evenings.

PERCHED atop the now famous cliffs of Ungasan up on The Bukit, a new level of luxury has recently arrived to set the well-healed with more of that exotic get-away feel. Designed and developed by Diastana, this cliff-top retreat offers all the amenities and then some, and is perfect for mid-sized events or several families on holiday.

Comprised of three lavish villas just beyond the Karma Kandara property, the standout choice is the five-bedroom Villa Cahaya, which features jaw-dropping ocean views (via infinity pool) and direct access to a 300-step wooden staircase down to a private beach below. The style and furnishings of the property live up to the heavenly name, drawing upon ancient Javanese and Tibetan décor traditions. The architecture is modern-ethnic, and another fine example of what is now possible within that hard-to-pin Bali-style aesthetic. Hand-blown glass-mushroom light fixtures, quite possibly by none other than Seiki Torige, also fill out this heady cocktail of divine isolation.

While the distance from the Bali’s hot-spot districts might scare some socialites, the prevailing mode of thought here is complete and utter retreat from the outside world. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t have even more fun on

the inside. Everything is provided for and more, with crystal-clear quadraphonic sound-systems, in-house movie libraries, massage beds, barbeques and 24-hour butler service ready for any request. There is even your own private tennis court and a state-of-the-art gymnasium to work off all those in-house meals.

When the sun began to sink into the sea, it became clear where this property’s name came from as the rays of glistening light escaped down through a hole in the clouds onto the ocean. Looking out across the fuchsia-flowered perimeter, the sun’s rays played orange patterns on the pool’s carved drop wall and the vibe became truly mystical. As the stars began to make their appearance, we sashayed back indoors for a taste of the Chef’s magic – choosing from a diverse in-house dining menu. My date chose the rack of lamb, while I went for the mixed kebab platter. Both were prepared to perfection, on par with any five-star resort, complemented by an extensive wine-list. Dessert turned out to be a gourmet affair also, with a scrumptious bread-pudding served with assorted berry affection.

Wiggling back up the staircase to our stately Javanese four-poster bed, we felt like weary heads-of-state returning from a banquet. The lack of neighbours beyond

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Heavenly light...a day in the life...book it on The Bukit...Lou Nietunz test drives Sinaran Surga.

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the walls left us only with the hypnotic crash of waves below to stroke our slumbers under a marshmallow duvet.

As the first beams of morning sun tried to creep through the tall curtains, the thunderous waves beckoned us to come out and play. It felt like Christmas morning, for some reason. Excited to discover what treats lay in store down in the family room, we enjoyed a pulsating shower before venturing out to explore the new day. Sure enough, treats were in store for us in the form of a private two-person breakfast buffet that had been arranged down on the kitchen’s island-table and included a scrumptious spread of breads, mueslis, deli meats and customised omelettes. We were going to need a forklift or pulley-system to get out of here, but hey, you only live once, right?

Turning up the in-house jazz selection, we ventured out, coffee in hand to explore the garden. It was starting to feel like a movie set, like those houses on the California Palisades where the stars hide out. Pool or beach, beach or pool? Pool it was. While the 300-steps down to the private beach did invoke a childish curiosity, we weren’t sure how they would get the forklift down there, and feared an ambush of sea-snakes. At least that’s how we rationalised things, as we cast off our

ever-shrinking clothes and went for the easy option. It was too hot for the stair-master, and as swallows dipped down for a sip from the pool’s swirling surface, we sunk in to enjoy the best view of a new horizon.

Later, as check-out time loomed, we started getting misty-eyed. How could this dream be over so soon? We had just arrived; surely there must be some mistake, yes? With our bags packed, and hearts yearning for more of the superstar-treatment, our time was up. We bid farewell to the attentive team of care-takers, and it felt like a Bali adaptation of Brideshead Revisited. We kissed the noble garden statues good-bye, waved to the massage-beds that we hadn’t yet met, and wistfully winked at the barbeque that hadn’t even been warmed up. We weren’t sure when we would be back, but knew that we would probably die trying.

As this gorgeously planned property begins a new life on the edge of paradise, one can only hope for the chance to enjoy it again with friends on some not-too-distant weekend. The secret cove below this private getaway beckons, and if you manage to get lost while trying to find it just look for the heavenly light.

www.sinaransurga.com Lavish luxe at Villa Cahaya.

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SET adrift on the sleepy shores of Tanjung Benoa, a new form of resort from old industrious hands has recently sprung forth to raise the stakes on the revitalised getaway strip of Jalan Pratama. Designed as the jewel in the crown to the ever-blooming Santrian resort group, this fabulous retreat was conceived by one of Bali’s true renaissance-men, Bpk. Ida Bagus Tjethana Putra. Hot on the trail of two more traditionally plush resorts in Sanur, this latest venture keeps the traditional flavours intact, but is updated with world-class facilities and other-worldly privacy.

So private in fact, that no children are allowed. That’s right, no munchkins will be found around here, unless you smuggle them in, but it’s not worth the trouble and you could be mistaken as a human-trafficking stoplight. This policy is aimed to please honeymoon couples and those who are just not looking for those family packages. While this seemed startling at first mention, my date and I soon realised the tranquility and retreat-value of this property was truly going to be an adult affair.

The stately garden lawns welcomed us from the intimate yet modern reception lobby, and as we were escorted to our garden suite, discreet doorways appeared from tucked away pool-gardened entrance-ways. A haven of luxuries awaited us upon arrival at the villa. Modern wood-decking and an austere poolside gazebo with mini-bar with massage beds, these suites are a deserved retreat from the heat. Indoors, it just gets better with each turn; large plasma TV corner, goose-down pillows, classic-style

tub with head-rest and multiple jet-options, twin mirrored showers (indoor and outdoor), fluffy bathrobes and elastic slippers – Ahhh, the good life.

Once we were acclimatised to the cushiness (and had tested the pillows) we ventured out to the beachfront for sunset drinks and some fine dining.

Along the Benoa bayfront, modern cabanas await any water-warriors on the secluded sands, with water-sports and activities available on request. A fleet of mountain-bikes are ready nearby for further shoreline explorations. The relatively new isolated location assures guests of quality R&R time, with no sellers hounding you for attention and complete privacy with which to enjoy your latest novel or sunset snuggle.

Adjoining the beachfront AllSpice Restaurant and main

pool garden, is a charming Japanese-styled sushi bar and teppanyaki-grill. fully air-conditioned and stocked to please, this unique private room venue provides a romantic retreat for couples or small groups; great also as a lunch-time escape from the sun, this is sure to please all fine food-lovers.

We opted for the main room after some hot Bloody Mary’s at the sushi-bar. With such a love for Japanese it was impossible to not try the Sweet Cardamom Wagyu beef platter, while my date made a dash for some Italian with the Osso Busco served with angel hair pasta. The Wagyu platter opened with sushi starters, along with grilled foie gras and salmon caviar. Both mains were exquisite and garnished to perfection.

While the menu shows deserved affection for gourmet Japanese fare,

there is also a complete range of international favourites selected by Melbourne-schooled cuisine-wiz, Chef Andre. To compliment the flavour, a modern wine-room for vino-buffs to peruse and there is also a humidor on-hand stocked full with your choice of cigars.

With 22 luxury-appointed villas including six beach-front Royale Suites, The Santrian is also well designed to accommodate private group-bookings, where depending on your families or corporate group, you can enjoy free-reign over the whole property. Several extensive lawns have been prepared for luxuriously large wedding layouts and corporate events, giving greater freedom to customize your particular affair.

www.theroyalsantrian.com

Foot loose and fancy free luxury, the Royal Santrian gives Lou Nietunz a taste of privacy – and what it means to be beach-front, child-free.

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TIRTHA Bridal displayed further evidence of its commitment to Bali with an event "Elements of Style" held at its exclusive Tirtha Luhur venue in Uluwatu on the Southern Peninsula. The event was designed to address the high demand for information about wedding and event options in Bali, and attracted the A-list of Indonesian media,

wedding planners and event organisers. Primarily catering to elite bridal couples and their guests, Tirtha Luhur is set on 3,000 square metres and offers one of Bali’s most stunning wedding pavilions, multiple outdoor dining locations, an infinity swimming pool which looks out onto the Indian Ocean, a bar and relaxation gazebo,

and – something which is unique to Tirtha Luhur – a luxurious and private three-bedroom villa for an onsite wedding night.

All areas for the event were uniquely decorated with Origami figures, created by Tirtha staff using recycled materials. Tirtha’s Michelin Chef, Mr. Hikaru Take, presented a five-course french fusion menu, which was

followed by a jazz performance by Tirtha’s entertainment director Ms. Chika Asamoto. The event was supported by Alila Villas Uluwatu and Garuda Airlines, reflecting Tirtha’s “Travel Concierge Service”, which addresses every aspect of the Tirtha client’s needs. www.tirthabridal.com

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So Gentlemen, how’s life on tour treating you lately? Where are you in the world at the moment?GG: Life is very kind right now as we are recording and rehearsing and performing in Byron Bay this week. This area is full of beautiful people and beautiful nature and is very inspiring musically...as well as on many other levels of well-being.CiS: Pretty good so far. I am presently in New Delhi on my way to Bangalore, then back to Goa and Mumbai to do a recording session with Kailash Kher.Did you always know you would end up as musical ambassadors outside your own country? How do you keep the energy to keep touring?GG: Life is full of surprises and it is a great honour to be able to share the cross-cultural inspiration of our homeland Australia. Musically it is a very ripe time here now, with many talented acts. Touring is the exciting bit of this musical journey and performing is the natural and easy part of the whole workings. Performing is like plugging into a power point – switch the button on and the creativity comes on through. Were your parents or relatives strong in their support of your musical growth when you were growing up, or was it a form of escape from daily life?GG: I grew up in a town that has a folk festival and my grandmother taught me the percussive spoons at the age of eight. After driving my teachers at school crazy from tapping on my desk, my Mum worked an extra job to purchase a nice drum kit and pay for drum lessons. Mum has always been there for support and she is even now involved with distribution from our online CD sales. from the drums, my musical journey took off into the areas of didgeridoo and music production. Having a rhythm background has opened many opportunities and shaped our sound as a band. Music has never really been an escape, but more a sharing or connection

between the Self, other musicians and the spirit.CiS: Yes, both my parents were great music listeners and very supportive of music in general.How do you see the current stage of growth or development in the World Music community?GG: It is a very exciting time as many more people around the globe now have access to recording equipment and there is so much music that is being shared culturally and cross-culturally.CiS: Hard to say at the moment since all produced music is being pirated and downloaded for free. None of us know really what the next step is to survive as musicians. Sponsors seem to be non-existent and patrons of the Arts are a thing of the past.Do you think more people travelling these days will increase the peace between peoples and understanding of

different cultures?GG: Travelling with music, most certainly. It is so nice to be invited to a community and have something positive to contribute, and then be inspired by that local community. Music is that Universal language that people feel and understand.CiS: Only somewhat. It should take more than music, honestly. There needs to be more focus on individuals supporting the poor and destitute.Has technology brought people or cultures closer together? Do you embrace it or avoid it?GG: Technology and access to it is bringing people together for sure, so many more people have recording equipment as it is much cheaper. YouTube also enables people to share anything online, which is fantastic. We are also in contact with musicians all around the world through facebook and Myspace and have teamed up to play or share music. As the Ganga

Giri group, we embrace all positive tools to express our message.CiS: Half and half. In one way technology and travelling has opened up musical frontiers, on the other hand, the danger seems to be also the homogenisation of music and trends in general. As far as embracing or not embracing – it's like asking to use or not to use a mobile phone.How do you find the vibe in Bali, compared to your own hometown?GG: I love Bali so much and have been visiting now for 10 years. My father has been visiting and living in Bali and Lombok on and off for 20 years and he speaks very good Indonesian. I love the colourful street life, the spirit in the land and people, food, music, I could go on...CiS: The last time I was in Bali, as a visitor, was maybe 15 years ago. I'm sure that global electronic music has found an audience there by now!Do you think World Music projects can affect/create political change?GG: We are all doing our little bit out there to contribute to the greater good, I believe. CiS: More than a musical project it would seem the ideology of power being the power of ideology, only a conscious world-wide strike could finally achieve peace, love and understanding.What do you see as something to hope for or strive to create in our society today or in the future?GG: We strive for bringing people together in celebration and oneness and openness to create positive change.CiS: feed and house the poor.Who are your heroes – musically or otherwise?GG: Crocodile Dundee.CiS: Musically, probably too many to list, but in the end, the divine in all of us.Thanks so much for your time online. We look forward to hearing much more from you both at the Bali Spirit Festival and around town in Bali. www.balispiritfestival.com

Lou Nietunz doubles up with Gangga Giri & cheb I Sabbah to find out what's in the cooker (and in their minds) for their upcoming performances at Ubud's third annual Bali Spirit Festival.

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ALSO returning from extended hiatus and numerous delays, are the brooding Bristol-based trip-hop originators, a sometimes ill-fit outfit, back together on the airwaves this time with an eclectic cast of co-conspirators. More experimental, folksy and guitar-driven than past outings, this latest offering maintains a dreamy melancholy that we missed more than we knew we would. The album draws on a deep and moody block-party of corner-shop contributors such as the Gorillaz, Portishead and Mazzy Star. These stars all groove tightly with founders Andy Vowles, Robert Del Naja and Grant Marshall on this bitter-sweet variety pack.

As an ice-breaker with an old friend, Pray for Rain comes with somber Morphine-esque rolling rock drums, discordant vibes and lyrics by Tunde Adebimpe which climax with a glistening techno-infused downpour. This is quickly chased by the uptempo-rockabilly Babel with Martina Topley-Bird. Horace Andy’s rootsy lilt returns also for the quirky dub-hymn Splitting the Atom with Del Naja’s customary sleepy warnings. The transitions and moods are so atmospheric and organic, resonating on many layers, that it’s small wonder that films scores have also been projects of choice for Del Naja in recent years.

Horace’s signature sound continues to new heights on Girl I love You, which is more reminiscent of the Mezzanine-sound. Topley-Bird reappears on the airy-acoustic number Psyche, before burbling tech-bass and the jazz-croonings of Guy Garvey come together in boggling fashion on Flat of the Blade. If the massive sound has changed – it would be from trip-hop to dub-rock-tronica. Paradise Circus with Hope Sandoval on vocals is a sublime example of this tough-to-tag sound, mixing dub basslines, gospel-claps, ambience strings and melancholy musings. Edginess returns on Rush Minute, with Vowles’ gritty venting before The Gorillaz’ Damon Albarn steps in on Saturday Come Slow, which falls somewhere between ColdPlay and Pink floyd. The final track Atlas Air finishes in strong Arabesque fashion with more production and synth-layers than the rest of the album.

Some may be surprised by the overall tone of this album, quite dark and less playful than past outings, but there’s a hypnotizing quality that grows on you with each listen. Ultimately this album is another gem which took a long time (and many guest artists) to gather and finish. Be warned though, dangerous combination of this album with a bad hangover could prove fatal. Proceed with caution, let it play a few times, and you’ll learn to love it more and more – the Bristol-sound getting down. www.massiveattack.com

HeligolandArtist: Massive Attack

Label: EMI Records

BACK with a vengeance comes the slow and steady siren of our troubled times, Sade, reunited with her original band members some nine years since their last outing for the Lover’s Rock tour. Conceived and mostly recorded at Peter Gabriel’s Real World studios in the English countryside, this latest release took some time in the oven, but the end result is warm, fresh and familiar at the same time. Having worked together for 25 years now, these cohorts truly understand how best to work as a team. Not one to feel pressured to over-produce, Sade explains she has never made an album unless she felt like she had something to say. Her voice shows no signs of aging, soaring with a relaxed ease that others find hard to achieve.

The overall vibe is more gritty and knowing than previous albums, the drums crisply urban, the guitar arrangements often more sparse, acoustic and electric, the backing vocals rich and haunting. There is a double-edged quality to Sade’s voice that ranges from a dreamy young girl to an experienced mother of tested heart. from Jazz to Blues to Reggae, this songbird’s tone winds a hypnotic tapestry throughout. Building upon her previous albums and discoveries, Sade keeps you fixed with her unique sound while wryly updating, staying timelessly fresh. There are some newer sounds and instruments to be found here, but nothing gimmicky or ill-placed, everything fits nicely like your favourite socks.

Gently fingered guitar slides introduce her latest offering, blending into a chilled R&B ballad on The Moon and the Sky with bird-like synth playing out their conversation. The title track Soldier of Love carries a classically sexy weight with military drums, and edgy guitar stabs. Babyfather is a wonderful reggae-splashed classic, lamenting the trials of fatherhood, while Long Hard Road is an eerie yearning to survive the journey of love. Be That Easy turns more Bluesy as this beautiful chameleon changes colours again before switching to the bad-ass hymn of Bring Me Home. Violins sashay with saxophones on In Another Time, a rich ballad to the unattainable wants of one life.

Skin and The Safest Place close the album in continued cozy style, to make one of those albums you just don’t get tired of. There is a pure soothing quality to Sade’s music that relaxes and refreshes you at the same time. Perfect for Sundays or gentle Mondays, let this cross-cultured princess take you for a cruise. www.sade.com

Soldier of LoveArtist: SadeLabel: Sony

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tIMeStheYCHANGeLou Nietunz looks up some returning wonders and chills before getting himself dark, dirty and down.

THE Big Picture: The taller the mountain, the better the view. The taller the mountain, the harder the climb. The world’s governments and economies can see the problems and they have made the plan, but wishful, optimistic thinking delays any meaningful action that should be taken. Delay, delay, hoping the wolf at the door will just go away. The Individual Picture: Almost literally, the ground beneath our feet shifts and shakes and stability of the infrastructure upon which we have relied is not reliable anymore. We have to rely upon our own resources and initiative. cardinal signs (capricorn, Libra, cancer, Aries) will have a harder struggle, while the Earth signs (capricorn, Taurus, Virgo) will have support to get the job done. You are not just your Sun sign. Each person has 10 planets in different signs and where the cardinal signs are is where your struggles are at this time.

By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmarmoodofthemomentA

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Time to make a new plan about where to go with your life. You need to include the other. You can’t do it by yourself anymore. Your separateness was always an illusion anyway. You need to be part of a team, even if you are the one far off scouting ahead. Your relationship may not be so juicy anymore because you have taken it for granted. Your friendships are inspiring because you share a common vision and common goals. The paradox is that your relationship is reliable, but your friendships are more about hope than reality.

taurus You take your eyes off the ground beneath your feet and look beyond the horizon up high into the sky to see what is behind the clouds. A sort of religiousness is part of you now that wants to understand the meaning of it all, the purpose of it all, the end of it all. That which tells you where home is, where your soul can rest and feel secure, is true. That which tells you the practical ways in which you can bring the clouds to Earth is true. Your high goals are achievable, but consider carefully in which direction you take the first step.

gemini Your mind soars to new heights of spiritual and meaningful and mystical understanding, but it is your emotions to which you should be paying attention. It is those emotions which you have hidden and kept secret that can give you power. It is those unresolved emotional issues against which you have erected defenses that hold you back from finding and feeling your power. It is through the old pain you find your new power, the power to be intimate, the power to survive being vulnerable and

open in the warm arms of a deep and universal love.

cancer All the energy is about the home, the partner, and the Other in your life. The energy is intense, either intensely empowering or the other way. If you are not getting the security and nourishment that you deserve, then it is time to travel to greener pastures or to find the Teacher who can be your guide. This is a time to lift up your eyes to see the big picture that we are all part of the same family and that everyone plays his part. Every stranger should become a family to you and every tyrannical authority just a naughty child. Naughty children deserve love too.

leo You've soared to new spiritual heights, and now is the time to tie your shoes. Dot your I’s and cross your T’s. Pay attention to the little things. Clean out your closets and sharpen your pencils. Perfect your skills. Make a plan for your health that includes diet, exercise, and medical checkups. Do the medical, but Google research any recommendations they make. One-third of all medical research is fraudulent or simply wrong. If they recommend statins for the heart or cholesterol, you might not want to do it.

virgo Things go up and things go down. This is a time at the peak of a high wave in a 12-year cycle. Jupiter transit and a lot of planets in the 5th House. Yahoo. Joyous energies. Trust in yourself, a zest for life, and creativity to spare. Time to play and express your inner child. Making money is not the priority of your life now. Whatever inspirations and insights you have will lead later to the perfecting of more skills, but there should be no goal or purpose to what you do. Just follow your

nose and smell the roses growing there just for you.

libra Saturn transit can have two sides. One is a feeling of heaviness and too much responsibility. The other side is a welcoming of responsibility and a new level of self-sufficiency. Both sides involve nose to the grindstone and hard work. The only difference is whether you enjoy the work and want to do it or not. Both sides involve an inward turn of aloneness and meeting of your own needs rather than asking others for help. This is not the most sociable, extroverted time of your life, but it gives you a depth of maturity that can be called charisma.

scorpio Networking, networking is important to you now, brothers and sisters particularly. How long has it been since you have called or written? Are you staying in touch? Same, same for your neighbours. How long has it been since you have taken over your favorite dish and said hello. This is a social, communication time for you now. You don’t have to share your feelings, just your thoughts. Also a good time for learning, learning and writing, writing. Research deeply into the hidden depths of what it is you want to know.

sagittarius This is a money making time for you and it is good to focus on this part of your life for a while. Gurdieff calls it ‘codified experience’. It enables you to trade it in for the experiences you want to have. Salvaging, re-conditioning, re-modeling to make things useful and valuable again is good. Good fortune about the home in some way. feelings of self worth increase according to your stability and self-sufficiency in the material world, particularly when you can afford to

pay the ticket to that spiritual destination you are always heading for.

capricorn Your job, and it has always been your job, is to save the world from itself and turn this planet into a habitable place to live. Your contribution is yourself and your gifts of organization and hard work. Nothing is for yourself. Everything is for The Plan. Don’t worry about the money or resources. The more practical and useful The Plan, the more you will be supported. Increased responsibility comes with increased authority and duty calls. Your satisfaction will come with the achievement of each step of the way toward your ultimate goal.

aquarius This is when the drop melts into the river and the river melts into the sea and all-is-one and nothing stands apart or alone. This is when the tree blends into the forest and the grain of sand blends into the beach. This is absolutely the most mystical time of your life. The reason to stop the mind is so that it will come back a different way. The reason to drop the individuality and the self is so that it will come back a different way. Let your heart open to the emotions of all the others and forget yourself for a while.

pisces Not only your spirit guides are watching over you, but all your friends as well. This is a time of friendship for you in this world, the greatest wealth a person can have. You find beauty through friends, you find identity through friends, you find your power through friends. You have certainly earned them through your kind and caring ways. More joy is available to you now. More zest for life and laughter is available to you now. Maybe the urge for travel and adventure crosses your mind. Self-confidence is at a high.

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CLINICBIMcTel: 761263 www.bimcbali.comPage 131 Yak Map f.12

EVENT ORGANISERPro Motion Events Tel: 287250 www.pro-motion-events.comPage 134

HEALTH, SPAS & SALONSAMO Beauty & SpaTel: 2753337/38www.amospa.comPage 113 Yak Map O.5Jiwa SpaTel: 778788Page Inside Back Cover Theta SpaTel: 755726www.thetaspa.comPage 27 Yak Map P.11

HOTELS & VILLASAnantara SeminyakTel: 737773www.bali.anantara.comPage 129 Yak Map P.11 conradTel: 778788www.conradhotels.comPage Inside Back Cover Green VillageTel: 767888www.tropicalhomesbali.comPage 18 Yak Map S.8 Nikko BaliTel: 773377www.nikkobali.comPage 8 SilqTel: 8475461www.silqkerobokanbali.comPage 95 Yak Map R.3 St. Regis BaliTel: 8478111 www.stregis.com/baliPage 6 The AmalaTel: 738866www.theamala.comPage 12 Yak Map Y.11The BaléTel: 775111

www.theabale.comPage 12The LagunaTel: 771327www.luxurycollection.com/baliPage 19The Royal SantrianTel: 288009www.santrian.comPage 17Tugu BaliTel: 731701bali@tuguhotels.comPage 113Uma SapnaTel: 736628 www.coconuthomes.comPage 29 Yak Map I.9Villa Babarwww.balivillababar.comPage 11 Yak Map U.6

MEDIABule Fusionwww.bulefusion.comPage 16 Yak Map P.5Island communicationsTel: 282010 fax: 287811www.icommbali.comPage 134

MISCELLANEOUSBali cleaning ServiceTel: 7803587www.balicleaningclinic.comYak DirectoryRim cargoTel: 737670www.rimcargo.comPage 32 Yak Map T.8SkalTel: 7840212skalbali@dps.centrin.net.idPage 134Sunset FitnessTel: 888702www.sunsetfitnessbali.comPage 134 Yak Map Z.9Tirtha BridalTel: 8471151www.tirthabridal.comPage 25 Yak canggu club Tennis classicTel: 8446385tennis@cangguclub.comPage 135

MUSEUMS/GALLERIESKendraTel: 736628www.kendragallery.comPage 29 Yak Map T.9

PROPERTYElite Havens Tel: 731074 /738747www.elitehavens.comPage 1 Yak Map P.8Exotiq Seminyak Tel: 737358,703208,287642www.exotiqrealestate.comPage 2 Yak Map T.8Tropical HomesTel: 767888www.tropicalhomesbali.comPage 18 Yak Map S.8

RECREATIONcanggu clubTel: 8446385www.cangguclub.comPage 115 Yak Map N.1Waka Land Tel: 426971/72www.wakaland.comPage 95

RESTAURANTS&BARSBali BakeryTel: 755149www.balibakery.comPage 87 Yak Map Y.10Bali catering companyTel: 737324www.balicateringcompany.comPage 94 Yak Map N.4Bali Good FoodTel: 285777www.baligoodfood.comPage 21 Biku BaliTel: 8570888www.bikubali.comPage 34 Yak Map O.5cafe BaliTel: 7801515thecafebali@yahoo.comPage 89 Yak Map q.7chinoserieTel: 8088777www.chinoseriebali.comPage 34 Yak Map f.11

cocoon Beachwww.cocoon-beach.comPage 15 Yak Map q.14Gourmet cafeTel: 8475115www.balicateringcompany.comPage 94 Yak Map P.4Hu’u Bar/Nut MegsTel: 736443 www.huubali.comPage 4-5 Yak Map M.5KayuPutiTel: 8478111www.stregis.com/baliPage 6 KhaimaTel: 7423925www.khaimabali.comPage 131 Yak Map R.8Ku De Ta Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.netPage 3 Yak Map N.9MétisTel: 737888www.metisbali.comPage 31 Yak Map U.3Siam SallyTel: 980777www.baligoodfood.comPage 79The JunctionTel: 735610Page 91 Yak Map q.7WahWah BurgerTel: 0818349809Page 93 Yak Map N.8

SHOPSBody & Soul www.bodyandsoulclothing.comPage 14 Yak Map: V.13/V.14c BoutiqueTel: 8853888www.cboutique.netPage 94 Yak Map P.8carloTel: 285211www.carloshowroom.comPage 13DandelionTel: 730375www.dandelionkid.comPage 9 Yak Map: V.8DeLightingTel: 420512

www.de-lighting.comPage 7 Yak Map T.8/W.10Deus Ex Machinawww.deus.com.auPage 133 Yak Map T.8Dinda RellaTel: 736953,734228 www.dindarella.comPage 20 Yak Map T.8Double IssueTel: 7306030www.doubleissues.comPage 28 Yak Map O.8Fabulously FeetTel: 8475764www.fabulouslyfeet.comPage 131 Yak Map Z.11Hatten WinesTel: 767422www.hattenwines.comPage 89 Yak Map f.12HaveliTel: 737160www.havelishop.comPage 35 Yak Map U.9HishemTel: 737441www.hishem.comPage 35 Yak Map W.7K&ITel: 737025/736477Page 33 Yak Map V. 9Lily JeanTel: 8475678www.lily-jean.com Page 10 Yak Map S.8/V.11MienTel: 735964www.mien-design.comPage 90 Yak Map N.5Modern Livingwww.balimodernliving.comPage 90Nico PerezTel: 738308Page IfC Yak Map S.8Paul RoppTel: 734208, 731002, 974655www.paulropp.comBack cover Yak Map T.8Peripluswww.periplus.co.id Page 91 Yak Map f.13/P.7Pura Vida www.puravidafashion.comPage 23 Yak Map V.9/V.12

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