Further inland, Mottisfont Abbey standsin beautiful countryside near the famousRiver Test. Originally a 12th-centurypriory, it was made into a private houseafter Henry VIII’s split with the CatholicChurch. Tel:01794 340757.

At Southwick, you can see the church ofSt James. Rebuilt in 1566 by John Whyte(a servant of the Earl of Southampton),it is a rare example of a post-Reformation Tudor church and wellworth a visit. The interesting thingabout the church is its date. At a timewhen churches were either being torndown, or their decoration removed, hereis a church that was newly built. It isespecially noteworthy for its three-decker pulpit, its gallery, reredos (screenbehind the altar) and box pews. Thereare monuments to John Whyte (d.1567)and his wife (d.1548).

TSM

0107

-007

37 T

udor

Tra

il 20

15 p

rodu

ced

by W

inch

este

r City

Cou

ncil

Basingstoke

Mary I’s route from Londonto Winchester

Philip’s route to Winchester

Wedding party's route back to London

Southampton

Portsmouth

Alresford

CChichesterChichester

Wickham

FarnhamAlton

Andover

WinchesterWinchester

Isle of Wight

Bishop's WalthamBishop's Waltham

Petersfield

Calshot Castle

Southsea Castle

CastlePalaceMansion

Cathedral /Abbey

Basing House

Romsey

Mottisfont

Hurst Castle

SouthwickParish Church

A31M3

M27

M27

A272

A33

A34

A31

A337

A326

A3

A3

A303

The map shows the area aroundWinchester and places of interest relatingto the Tudor period. Towns mentioned in

this leaflet all appear on this map.

The Tudors beyondWinchester

Bishop’s Waltham Palace

T U D O R SExplore Winchester’s Tudor history and

test your knowledge of the period

Over 500 years ago, in 1485, Henry VII became the first king of theTudor royal family. The War of the Roses had just ended and this,added to the population decrease and economic instability alreadybrought by the Black Death and the Hundred Years War, was toherald a period of steady decline for Winchester.

However, the city was still favoured by a succession of Tudormonarchs, hosting a royal birth, christening and later a wedding.Winchester is a showcase of buildings, ruins and artefacts thatplayed a part in this extraordinary period of regal history - step intothe cathedral and you’re entering Queen Mary’s wedding venue!Read on to discover the stories behind our Round Table in the GreatHall, an ornate Tudor ceiling in the Westgate, the ruins of WolveseyCastle, Winchester Castle, Bishop’s Waltham Palace and more...

Journey out of Winchester a few miles and you will findthese interesting places with Tudor connections.Before her wedding, Mary travelled to Winchester fromLondon, staying with Bishop Gardiner at his castle inFarnham and then on to his palace at Bishop’s Waltham.This medieval palace stood in a 10,000-acre park and hadbeen a favourite hunting spot for Henry VIII. Bishopsoccupied the palace until the early 17th-century when itwas destroyed during the Civil War. The extensive ruins areworth a visit today, and events are sometime staged there.Tel: 01962 840500.

Old Basing House, home of the Lord Treasurer, WilliamPaulet, was a huge castle, converted in Tudor times into alarge private house. Mary andPhilip were entertained thereafter their wedding. Thehouse, like many others, wasdamaged in the Civil Warand fell into ruins coveringabout 10 acres. Today youcan see the remains ofTudor kitchens, towers,and a recently recreatedearly 17th-century formalgarden. Tel: 01256 467294.To the south is the famous seaport of Portsmouth, wherein 1494 Henry VII built a square masonry tower. A year later he added a dockyard where royal warshipscould be built and repaired. Fifty years later, Henry VIIIbuilt Southsea Castle at the harbour entrance. It was fromhere that Henry saw disaster strike his ship the Mary Rose:she was sunk by the French in Portsmouth Harbour.

You can see her now in Portsmouthdockyard.

The south coast and the Solent inparticular had to be protectedagainst the marauding foreignships and Calshot Castle and HurstCastle were both positioned to dojust this, Calshot at the entranceto Southampton Water, and HurstCastle further west.

9. A famous Tudor

sailed around the

world in aship called

the Golden Hind.

What was

his name?

8. How would youdescribe a formal garden? Can youname any of the plants that they might contain?

Quiz answers1. 10 is X; 50 is L; 100 is C; 500 is D;1,000 is M. Try writing 1554.

2. There are 25 knights. Some ofthe names are Sir Galahad, SirLancelot du Lac, Sir Gawain, SirMordred. Can you add to these?

3. Richard III (Battle of Bosworth);The Merry Wives of Windsor; HenryVIII.

4. All the niches are empty. Thestatues were removed along with allother images of God or the saints inhuman form. Similar empty nichescan be seen on the east face ofWestgate.

5. Winchester has no local stoneother than flint. Most of the squarestones came from the Isle of Wight,which is about 45 kilometres away.The stones were part of the two

abbeys, Hyde and St Mary’s,that were torn downduring the time ofHenry VIII.

6. The stone-builtcellar was fireproof sothis is where themerchant kept his expensive goods.Because stone was expensive, theliving areas were made of wood andplaster.

7 Mills were, and still are, used forgrinding corn. The wheels weremade of wood, and later ones ofstone, quartz being the bestmaterial for its hardwearing quality.

8. Formal gardens are laid out in aprecise way. Plants would includeherbs that were spread on floors toimprove the smell of a house.

9. Sir Francis Drake

?Did you know?Henry VIII is said tohave had over70,000 peopleexecuted while hewas king.Winchester had itsown gallows sitedto the north of thetown, off theAndover Road. Atthe Jolly Farmer pubthere is a list ofnames of peopleexecuted.Beaumond(see city map) wasthe place wherepeople were burnedat the stake.

“The trumpetes sounded; and thus both returned hand in hand …the Queengoing always on the right hand ...until mass was done; and immediatelyafter they returned to the Bishop's Palace.”The marriage of Queen Mary and King Philip II of Spain in WInchester, asrecorded by the English Heralds.

If you would like this leaflet in another a larger please email tourism@winchester.gov.uk or call

01962 840 500 to discuss your requirement. www.visitwinchester.co.uk

Damian Lewis as Henry VIII on set in Winchester during the filming of Wolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte

Images of Philip and Mary courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery, London

Tudor monarchsOne of Henry VII’s favourite houses was WinchesterCastle where his first son, Arthur, was born and thenchristened at the cathedral, the first Tudor royalceremony to be held in the city. When Arthur died, Henry’ssecond son Henry VIII becameking. Probably best known forhaving six wives, Henry VIIIcaused a great political andreligious upheaval when hesplit from the Catholic Churchof Rome and established theChurch of England, thus givinghim the freedom to remarry. In 1522, Henry entertained the Kingof Spain and Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V,at Winchester Castle’s Great Hall, when Charles was ableto look at the newly painted Round Table with its centralTudor rose and portrait of King Arthur.

The painting is a real bit of Tudorone-upmanship. Arthur in thepicture looks like the beardedHenry, and Arthur’s fame hadspread throughout Europe andformed an integral part of theChivalric Code. The point beingmade by the picture is that Henrycould trace his family back to KingArthur and then to the emperors of

Ancient Rome. This was further backthan Charles V who at that time was Holy

Roman Emperor. The position of the Tudor rose motif atthe centre of the painting emphasises Henry’s legitimateright to the throne.When Henry VIII died in 1547 his son Edward VI, agednine, became king. During thisshort reign – he was fifteenwhen he died – his religiouspolicies led to the arrest andimprisonment in the Tower ofLondon of many leadingCatholics. Amongst these werethe Bishop of Winchester,Stephen Gardiner, and theWarden of Winchester Collegeboys’ school, Dr John White.

The next Tudor to come to the throne was Mary I – a Catholicwho became known as ‘Bloody Mary’ because she imprisonedProtestants and burned 300 at the stake. Her marriage to Philip IIof Spain, another Catholic, was unpopular. They married inWinchester, part of the reason being that there was less likelihoodof a riot there than in London. The wedding took place on 25 July1554: a grand ceremony in Winchester Cathedral, but a miserablemarriage.Our last Tudor was the great Elizabeth I, the second daughter ofHenry VIII. Her reign, sometimes called a Golden Age, began in1558 until her death in 1603. She was a determined leader indangerous times, totally committed to her role as queen, somuch so that she ordered the execution of her cousin –another Mary – Queen of Scots.

Deta

il fro

m a

por

trait

of P

hilip

II, K

ing

of S

pain

afte

r Titi

an , (

1555

)(N

PG 4

175)

Deta

il fro

m a

por

trait

of Q

ueen

Mar

y I

by H

ans E

wor

th, (

1554

) (NP

G 48

61)

Mary & Philip’s wedding25 July 1554 – St James’s Day (patron saint of Spain)

In July 1554 Philip sailed up the SouthamptonWater to Southampton, whereupon Marycalled ‘all noblemen, gentlemen, ladies andothers’ to Winchester for the wedding. Shemoved to Wolvesey Castle in Winchester asPhilip travelled to the city, stopping off at theHospital of St Cross on the way. He entered thecity through Southgate to the sounds of trumpets,bells and cannon shot. Later that day, he metMary for the first time where a courtierpronounced her ‘old, badly dressed and almosttoothless’. However, the wedding took place,with the cathedral hung with tapestries and banners that coveredthe damage caused by Henry VIII’s men during the religiousconflict known as the Reformation. The King and Queen then setoff along the Roman road to Basing House, 20 miles north ofWinchester. A month later, Philip left for Spain, returning threeyears later for a few months before leaving again, forever. Marydied shortly after.

W O L F H A L L in Winchester

B E A U T Y A N D H I S T O RY

For details of opening times, admissions, tours, services and events please call us on 01962 857 200 (Monday to Friday) or visit the website: www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk

Claire Foy as Anne Boleyn on set in Winchester during the filming ofWolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC.Photograph by Giles Keyte

m.(1)

m

m.(2) m.(3) m.(4) m.(5) m.(6)

Henry VIIr.1485–1509

Elizabethof York

Arthurd.1502

Henry VIIIr.1509–1547

Catherineof Aragondivorced

Anne Boleynexecuted 1536

Jane Seymourd.1537

Anneof Cleeves

divorced

CatherineHoward

executed 1542

Catherine Parr

d.1548

Philip II of Spain d.1598

Mary Ir.1553–1558

Elizabeth Ir.1558–1603

Edward VIr.1547–1553

Winchester’s historic cityscapemakes it a popular film location forperiod dramas. The city provided abackdrop for the acclaimed Tudordrama Wolf Hall (2015) – adaptedfrom books by author HilaryMantel. Winchester Cathedral, theGreat Hall and the Hospital of StCross (a medieval almshouse) alloffered convincing settings forvarious scenes.

Why not book a walking tour thattakes in some of Winchester’sfamous landmarks from the Tudortimes? Winchester’s Tourist Guidesrun a special Tudor walking tour onrequest. Visitwww.winchestertouristguides.comor contact Winchester TouristInformation Centre on 01962 840 500 for details.

Did you know?After its Tudor decline Winchester would notflourish again until the 19th century when therailway was built.

Great Hall Winchester@greathallwinch

www.hants.gov.uk/greathall Winchester

Sixpence, called ‘TheKissing Coin’, issued tomark the wedding ofMary and Philip

2. How many Knights

of the Round

Table are there?

Can you name

some of them?

1. How good are yourRoman numerals?How are numbers10, 50,100, 500and 1,000written?

3. About this timeWilliam Shakespeare

was writing.Can you name any ofhis plays relatingto the Tudors?

www.visitwinchester.co.uk

WestgateOne of five medieval gates, this was the main entranceinto the city. The two stone shields on the west frontwere a sort of noticeboard where the coat-of-arms ofimportant visitors were painted on. In the WestgateMuseum you can see Dr John White’s painted ceiling, aswell as Tudor objects.

Winchester Castle and the Great HallOne of the strongest fortresses in Britain, started in 1070 byWilliam the Conqueror, the Great Hall was built in 1222 andis one of the finest surviving medieval halls. In 1603, the yearElizabeth I died, the courts moved here from Westminster toavoid the plague. It was here that the one-time favourite ofElizabeth I, Sir Walter Raleigh, was tried and found guilty ofplotting with Spain against England.

Wolvesey CastleSince Saxon times, the bishops of Winchesterlived here. More a fortified residence than acastle, it was here, in 1554, that Mary I stayedbefore her wedding to Philip of Spain, and thisis where she held her wedding banquet. Afterthat, the building gradually fell into disuse.

City Mill Mentioned in theDomesday Book,the mill was one of13 in the city.Reflecting thedecline ofWinchester inHenry VIII’s time,the mill wasneglected andceased working.The site was given to the city to help pay for thecost of Mary and Philip’s wedding in 1554. Themill was eventually restored in 1743.

St Mary’s AbbeyThis was one of the main nunneries in England.Abbess Elizabeth Shelley (see Tudor Wintonians inthis leaflet) gave up the house to Henry VIII andsoon after it was abandoned. Mary gave the landto the city to help cover her wedding costs.

The site is now occupied by the Guildhall, andAbbey House is the residence of the Mayor ofWinchester.

St John’s HospitalFounded by the city’s merchants in 1294 tocare for the elderly and unwell, it was thishospital that Ralf Lamb gave money to (seeTudor Wintonians). nder a City charter issued byElizabeth I in 1587, St John’s Hospital was runby the city until 1829, when it became anindependent charity.

The streets of WinchesterThe royal wedding of Mary and Philip in 1554 brought about amassive clean up of the city. Streets were cleaned and ‘lerubbishe’ carted away. Heralds were paid for ‘proclaiming’ theKing and Queen on their entry into the city, the town wasdecorated with flags and the Queen’s trumpeters, footmenand men-at-arms all received gifts of money.

Hotels and InnsTudor Winchester had over 100 inns and alehouses and so waswell able to cater for the guests at Mary and Philip’s wedding(a number that probably doubled the city’s population). Mostof the inns were on the north side of the High Street, near theButter Cross, while most of the alehouses and taverns wereopposite them, including one behind the Butter Cross called‘Hevene’ and next to it one called ‘Helle’.

The Butter Cross At the heart of the city centre, now pedestrianised, thismedieval monument is a traditional meeting place forWintonians (people of Winchester). Originally known as theCity Cross, it was first mentioned in 1427. It was from herethat the mayor would read out public announcements andgive news of royal births, marriages and deaths.

Speed’s Map of Winchester, 1611. Speed’s Map of Winchester was drawn seven years after the death of Elizabeth I in 1603. The city walls and Castle (32)are still standing. Hyde Abbey (2) and St Mary’s Abbey (8) have been levelled and most traces removed. The cathedral (31) has lost its cloisters. The Bishop’s residence of Wolvesey Castle (25) was by then in ruins and is not shown.

The Tudor House on St John’s Street

The Butter Cross

The Round Table in the Great Hall

The ruins of the Bishop’sCastle of Wolvesey

The City Bridge with the City Mill behind

THE WINCHESTER TUDOR TRAIL

Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell on set in Winchester during the filming ofWolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte.Tudor Wintonians

The schoolmaster who could dole outpunishmentsIn 1535, Dr John White was appointed headmaster and thenwarden of Winchester College. In Edward VI’s reign he wassent to the Tower of London for his religious beliefs butreleased by Mary I and made Bishop of Lincoln, and later,Bishop of Winchester. He commissioned a painted ceiling incelebration of Mary’s wedding. You can see this ceiling in theWestgate. He carried out Mary’s religious policies and hadThomas Benbridge burned at the stake.

Broiled and burned –another victim of religiousintoleranceThomas Benbridge was aHampshire landowner. When herefused to attend Catholic Masshe was found guilty of heresy andsentenced to be burned to death.He suffered two attempts to burnhim before he died. Bishop JohnWhite, as he was then (seeabove), was partly responsible.

A victim of Henry VIII’schange to ProtestantismElizabeth Shelley was the lastabbess of St Mary’s Abbey. After she surrendered the abbeyto Henry VIII’s men in 1539, thenuns were expelled andElizabeth continued to live therein almost uninhabitableconditions. She is buried in thechapel of Winchester College.

A Catholic with goodintentions Ralf Lamb was a member ofBishop Gardiner’s householdwho attended Mary and Philip’swedding. His portrait showshim dressed in Spanish style,painted by a Spanish artist. He left £400 to St John’sHospital (opposite theGuildhall) to buy houses for thecity’s poor. With this money, StJohn’s purchased the buildingnow known as the Dolphin inthe High Street (there is a stonedolphin carved above thedoor). The Hospital’s Lamb andFlag coat of arms can be seenon the St Thomas Streetfrontage of the Dolphin, nowan off-licence.

The treasurer who did a U-turn William Paulet, 1st Marquess ofWinchester, served as Lord Treasurerof England under three Tudormonarchs. At first he was firmlyagainst Mary’s marriage to Philip ofSpain, and was heard to swear thathe would ‘set upon’ Philip when helanded. He later changed his opinionand entertained the wedding partyat Old Basing on their way toLondon.

The SokeThis word means anadministrative area, in thiscase under the Bishop ratherthan the Queen. In Tudortimes the Soke on the east oftown was one of the richerareas of Winchester.In St John’s Street you’ll find agood example of a Tudormerchant’s house (now privatelyowned). Opposite is the church ofSt John’s in the Soke whose accountsin 1591 show that the sum of 3 shillingswas spent on ‘drinking and the ringing’ ofits bells to celebrate the visit of Elizabeth I.

STOCKBRIDGE RD

UPPER H

IGH

ST

HIGH STREETBROADWAY

WO

RTH

Y RO

AD

BA

R END

ROA

D

CH

ESIL

STR

EET

ALRESFORD ROAD

MAG

DA

LE

N HILL

M3

CH

ILBO

LTO

N A

VEN

UE

ROMSEY ROAD

ROMSEY ROAD

STOC

KBRIDGE ROAD

ST C

ROSS

RO

AD

SLEEPERS HILL

LOWER STANMORE LANE

STANMORE LANE

M3

CHILCOMB LANE

MO

RESTEAD ROAD

BADGER FARM RD

WALE

S ST

REET

EASTON LANE

NORTH WALLS UNION STR

EET

CIT

Y ROAD

GARNIER ROAD

KIN

GSG

ATE

ROA

DJE

WRY

STR

EET

HYD

E ST

REET

W

ORT

HY

LA

NE

AN

DO

VER ROA

D

SOU

TH

GAT

E ST

Hospital of St. Cross

University of Winchester

Winchester Rugby Football Club

University of Winchester West Downs Campus

Winchester College

Peter Symonds College

Royal Hampshire County Hospital

GarrisonGroundSports

Stadium

Tourist Information

Cathedral

Tesco

WinnallIndustrialEstate andRetail Park

Sainsbury’s

Waitrose

Aldi

Park & Ride

River Park Leisure Centre

Military Museums

HA+E

Itchen Way

Itchen Way

Itchen Way

South Downs Way

Clarendon Way

23

23

Royal Winchester Golf Course

Winnall MoorsNature Reserve

St. Catherine’sHill

South DownsNational Park

South DownsNational Park

WaterMeadows

WesthillCemetery

Oram’sArbour

Itche

n N

aviga

tion

Rive

r Itc

hen

Rive

r Itc

hen

Littleton

Easton

Kings Worthy

Shawford Hockley Viaduct &

Hur

sley

Winchester Science C

entre

N

SEE CITY CENTRE MAP

HAREST

Littleton

HARESTOCK

ABBOA

DA

OOA

RY

HHY

TTSTBARTON

orKings W o

arkkkNational Pio io wns D DSouth Do

ythr

Ea

TEG DO

A

a

AOOAREGGEDIIDRRI

BBR

KKB

CCK

OTSST

WN

Aldi

oseaitrWW

WEEKE

eter

C

D

DA

OTTOSST

AAD

ORROREER

VOO

VD

NND

AAN

Symonds eter PP

ose

W

ootball ClubF

CentrW

Ce CentrLei

RT

H

EE

TTHRRTOO

RWW

OT

EN

ALY

HTTHR

BARTON

L

Fy Ruugb

nchester Winchester

Natur

ee Centrk k

urLeisurer e R ark

W

er PivRiv

Winn

APY CENTRE MSEE CIT

Club

esco

Retail Park

ub ub d

E

k

NNEAAN

LNOONTSST

k

Winchester h

W

Estate andIndustriallWinnall

er It

chen

TTesco

yaayItchen W

e

Rivve

eve ReserrWinnall Moors

ston

urseGolf Cou nchester yal Winchester

urseGolf Cou

FULFLOOD

EUU

ENN

UEENVVEA

NOTTOL

OBLIH

C

nchester yal Winchester RoRo

esthillC

ULFLOODArbour

mm

DOD

E

D

E

D

DAADORROYEEYSMORO

PPUUP

REGGEDIIDRRI

BBRKKB

CCKO

wns Campusest DoWWest DoWinchester ersity of Univ

eColleg

Museumsy ry rMilitar

tt

A

A+EH

sOOram’

tthillilhhillWWWWesthill

CITY

Cathedralm

t io

CENNTREC

r e ourist athedralo

theon

R

TY

C

RES

Y

D

Y

H

T

T

B

E T

thnn

TSE

DYH

TEERTS

YRWW

REJJE

AOOARY

TT

Y

ITIIT

T

CCI

EER

TSNOONIIONNI

UUNSLLAWWAHTTHRON

AWWADAOOARBBR

STEEEERRTTTRTRSHGGHHIIHH

T

SSTH

GGH

IHH

IREER

PP

SE

TTE

AG

HTT

HU

OS

CEN RNT

ormationrist

Infformationourist TTTourist Tourist

WINNALL

HIL HILL LL LT GILE LES’ HILL

L

T

M

T

T

L

3

SSTAAS

EEA

TEETEEERRE

TTR

SSTSEESLLEAAAL

WWWA

M

LIHNEENLA

DDA

GAMMA

DAORDROFSERLA

EE

ST GI S’ HILL

23

Winche

TANMORE

P

D

E

E

GGEDABBA

NALEROMMONNM

ATTASST

EEPEEELSSL

AADOOA

RROYEEY

SSEMMSOOM

RRO

STANMORE

SLEEPER

County Hospitalal HampshiryRo

yH

ursl

e

Ceme

SLEEPERS HILL

teeter

ersity of

L

D

ENALEROMMONNM

ATTASST

REERWWE

OL

T

LIHSREP

AOO

AR

SSOR

CTSS

Winchesterersity of UnivUniv

nty Hospitale Hampshir re yeter

er

r

D

O

AOO

AR

ETT

EA

GGA

SGG

SNIIN

KKI

RR

REERNIIIENNIE

RRNAGGA

CollegWinchester

Par

ws

Itchen W

MeadoaterWWater

BAR END

National P

Stadium

rk & R Ride

E

O

T

3 CLIHC

MM3

RTS

LISEH

C

DAA

DORRO

DNN

DEEN

RAA

RB

S

HIGHCLIFFE

Ride

ts Spor oundGrrisonGar

yahen W W

yaaywns WDoSouth

South Do

ark

ENALBMO

National PwnsSouth Do

eester Science C

entr

BADGER

Sainsbur

RMDRRDMRRM

AAR

FFAREER

GGE

FARM

OLIVER’SATTERBA RYTTERY

R C C

u

R

SENAL S

SST CROSS CrSt.

Hospital of

sy’ur

yaendon W WaClar

dorwfSha

oss o of

HiHill Catherine’

DAOOARR

Crspital of

er It

chen

yaayItchen W

23

Riv

vigati

on

Itche

n N

a

Hills Catherine’StSt.

&y Viaduct Hockle

National P

s

DAOOARDAEEATTE

SST

EESRRE

OOR

M

OA

ark

N

National P

N

Portrait of Ralf Lamb,dated 1554. On view

at the Westgate.

Portrait of WilliamPaulet, Lord Treasurerand 1st Marquess ofWinchester. On viewat the Guildhall.

7. A water mill is used for what? What are the

wheels made of?

6. Why do you think the bottom part of a Tudor building is stone, and thetop is wood and

plaster?

4. Look at the

west front

of Wincheste

r Cathedral?

What is missing

that tells

us something

about the

religious con

flict

started by He

nry VIII

and known as

the

Reformation?

5. Walk around the Collegearea and look for thecheckerboard-effect garden walls, knownas ‘diaper work’. Where doyou think the stonescame from?

Detail of a woodcut fromFoxe’s Book of Martyrs