the right bike for you - mountain bikes | road bikes · position. this is best for riders that...

THE RIGHT BIKE

FOR YOU

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE

RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME

WHAT TYPE OF CYCLIST ARE YOU?

> SOCIAL YOU LIKE A LEISURELY PEDAL WITH FAMILY AND/ OR FRIENDS ONCE IN A WHILE.

> RECREATIONAL YOU LIKE TO RIDE ON WEEKENDS WHEN THE WEATHER IS PLEASANT. SPEED IS NOT IMPORTANT TO YOU.

> SPORTY YOU LIKE TO DO A RACE ONCE IN A WHILE AND JUST WANT TO FINISH WITH A SMILE; OR YOU RIDE TO MANAGE YOUR WEIGHT AND STAY REASONABLY FIT.

> SERIOUS YOU TRAIN TO DO AS WELL AS POSSIBLE IN A FEW RACES A YEAR; OR YOU RIDE AT LEAST THREE TIMES A WEEK ON AVERAGE.

> COMPETITIVE BEING FIT AND FAST AND ABLE TO RACE WITH CONFIDENCE IS IMPORTANT TO YOU.

> FANATICAL YOU RIDE AT ANY CHANCE YOU GET AND MAKE LIFE DECISIONS BASED AROUND YOUR CYCLING SCHEDULE.

BLACK – ADVANCED/TOP-END

WHAT’S YOUR COLOUR?

TO MAKE THIS GUIDE EASIER TO NAVIGATE, WE HAVE DIVIDED CERTAIN ELEMENTS INTO COLOURS:

IN ORDER TO DETERMINE THE IDEAL BIKE FOR YOU, FIND YOUR RIDER PROFILE USING THESE CATEGORIES:

MOUNTAINROAD

GREEN – BEGINNER/ENTRY-LEVEL

BLUE – INTERMEDIATE/MID-RANGE


> MOUNTAIN BIKEENTRY-LEVEL HARDTAIL GEOMETRY slightly relaxed for a more upright

riding position

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium

IDEAL FOR SOCIAL, RECREATIONAL RIDER

PERFORMANCE HARDTAIL GEOMETRY aggressive for a more controlled

forward-weighted position

FRAME MATERIAL steel, aluminium, scandium, carbon fibre, titanium

IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER

DUAL-SUSPENSION MARATHONGEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and

comfort combination

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre, titanium

SUSPENSION TRAVEL

80-110mm

IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER

DUAL-SUSPENSION TRAILGEOMETRY

comfort

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre

SUSPENSION TRAVEL

120-140mm

IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER

DUAL-SUSPENSION GRAVITYGEOMETRYFRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre

SUSPENSION TRAVEL

150-180mm

IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDERWOMEN-SPECIFICGEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and

comfort combination

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre

SUSPENSION TRAVEL

80-140mm

IDEAL FOR FEMALE, SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER

CITY BIKEGEOMETRY relaxed geometry for an upright riding position

FRAME MATERIAL steel or aluminium

IDEAL FOR SOCIAL RIDER

ENTRY-LEVEL ROAD BIKEGEOMETRY slightly relaxed for a comfortable

riding position

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium

IDEAL FOR RECREATION, SPORTY RIDER

COMFORT ROAD BIKEGEOMETRY neutral to facilitate a power and comfort

combination

FRAME MATERIAL steel, aluminium, enhanced carbon fibre

IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER

PERFORMANCE ROAD BIKEGEOMETRY aggressive for a low, powerful riding position

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre or titanium


WOMAN-SPECIFICGEOMETRY shorter top tube to accommodate shorter torsoFRAME MATERIAL aluminium or carbon fibreIDEAL FOR FEMALE, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER

TRIATHLON/TIME TRIALGEOMETRY aggressive for a forward seated,

aerodynamic position

FRAME MATERIAL aluminium or carbon fibre


A DUAL SUSPENSION BIKE IS BEST IF YOU ARE:> Over 40 years old (male)> Over 80kg (male) > Female (any age and weight) that’s a SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE or FANATICAL rider> Keen on marathons, stage races, trail riding or Enduro races

A HARDTAIL BIKE IS BEST IF YOU:> Are on a limited budget> Do only short rides (under 2 hours)> Are keen on cross-country racing> Are fixated on light weight

ROAD BIKE MOUNTAIN BIKE

TYPE

S O

F BI

KES


FRA

ME

2

1

3

54

7

86

1 - Fork2 - Headtube3 - Toptube4 - Seattube

5 - Downtube6 - Bottom Brackett7 - Seatstays8 - Chainstays

THE FRAME IS THE STRUCTURE AROUND WHICH YOUR BIKE IS BUILT AND THEREFORE THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN MAKING A BUYING DECISION. MOST BIKE BRANDS WILL OFFER THE SAME FRAME FOR DIFFERENT MODELS WITHIN THAT BRAND’S RANGE, WITH PRICE-POINTS CHANGING BASED ON THE PARTS AND ACCESSORIES ON EACH FRAME.

FRAME MATERIALBicycle frames are made with different materials. Here’s a summary of the four most popular and their characteristics:

STEEL: rather heavy and not too responsive – used more on utility bikes than performance bikes

ALUMINIUM: light and strong and offers very a responsive, but slightly hard ride

CARBON FIBRE: very light and strong, but very rigid, offering a fast, but hard ride

TITANTIUM: very light and strong, but not super-rigid, offering a slightly plush, fast ride

FRAME GEOMETRYThe geometry of the frame refers to the angles of the tubing, mostly the headtube and seattube, which affect the rider’s position on the bike. There are three main types of geometry:

RELAXED GEOMETRY - puts the rider in rearward-weighted, upright position. This is best for riders that prioritise comfort over performance. On dual suspension mountain bikes, however, the gravity-centric bikes have a more relaxed geometry to offer better control when descending.

NEUTRAL GEOMETRY - puts the rider in a central-weighted, partially-crouched position. This is the most common geometry, with small variations between the different brands. It ensures a position that delivers a combination of comfort and control.

AGGRESSIVE GEOMETRY - puts the rider in a forward-weighted, crouched position. This is best for riders that prioritise performance over comfort. It’s largely used on bikes

designed for racing. SIZING CHART - MEN SIZING CHART - WOMENRider height in cm

Suggested frame size

148 - 152 47 - 48 XXS152 - 160 49 - 50 XS160 - 168 51 - 52 - 53 S168 - 175 54 - 55 M175 - 183 56 - 57 - 58 L183 - 191 58 - 59 - 60 XL191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL

Rider height in cm


147 - 155 44 - 45 - 46 XXS155 - 160 47 - 48 - 49 XS160 - 165 50 - 51 - 52 S165 - 172 53 - 54 - 55 M172 - 180 56 - 57 L183 - 191 58 - 59 - 60 XL191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL

HEAD TUBEANGLE

SEAT TUBEANGLE

FRAME MATERIAL AND GEOMETRY > MOUNTAIN BIKEROAD BIKE


2

1

3

4

9 5

6

7

10

8

SIZING CHART - MEN

SIZING CHART - WOMEN

Rider height in cm


148 - 158 13 - 14 XS158 - 168 15 - 16 S168 - 178 17 - 18 M178 - 185 19 - 20 L185 - 193 21 - 22 XL193 - 198 23 - 24 XXL191 - 198 61 - 62 - 63 XXL

Rider height in cm


148 - 158 13 - 14 XS158 - 168 15 - 16 S168 - 178 17 - 18 M178 - 185 19+ L

1 - Suspension fork2 - Headtube3 - Toptube4 - Seattube5 - Downtube6 - Bottom Brackett7 - Seatstays8 - Chainstays9 - Rear shock10 - Suspension pivot

- Ultegra 10-speed - Ultegra Di2 10-speed electronic - Dura-Ace 11-speed - Dura-Ace Di2 11-speed electronic

- Record 11-speed - Super Record 11-speed - Athena EPS 11-speed electronic - Record EPS 11-speed electronic - Super Record EPS 11-speed electronic

The groupset is one of the most important features of your bike, as it is the sum of the working parts and directly contributes to performance and enjoyment. The groupset models below are arranged within brands, starting with the cheapest and moving down towards the best quality/most expensive.

- Deore XT 9/10-speed - Saint 9-speed - XTR 10-speed

- X9 10-speed - X0 10/11-speed - XX1 11-speed

GRO

UPSE

T

THE GROUPSET IS THE COLLECTION OF THE WORKING PARTS ON THE BIKE AND GENERALLY INCLUDES:

THE DRIVETRAIN > CHAINRINGS > CRANKS > CHAIN > CASSETTE

THE GEARS > REAR DERAILLEUR > FRONT DERAILLEUR > REAR SHIFTERS > FRONT SHIFTERS > CABLES

All levels of groupset perform the same function, but the lower-end models will have less gears and will be heavier. As you move higher up the groupset models, the number of gears increases, and/or the weight becomes lighter and the durability is better.

ROAD BIKES

MOUNTAIN BIKES- Black Red 11-speed - Red 10-speed - Red 22 11-speed

FRA

ME MOUNTAIN BIKE GROUPSET


2627.5

29

1

1 - Rim2 - Spokes3 - Hub4 - Tyre5 - Quick-release

2

3

4

5

A 29ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:Are over 1.80m tall (male)Participate in marathons/stage racesAre concerned about your time in racesAre a strong rider (male and female)

A 27.5ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:Are femaleAre a male under 165cm in heightAre keen on cross-country racingAre keen on technical trail riding Are keen on enduro racing

A 26ER IS IDEAL IF YOU:Are a teenagerAre shorter than 155cm in heightAre unsure if mountain biking will be ‘your thing’Are on a really tight budget

WHAT IS THE IDEAL WHEEL SIZE FOR YOU ?

AFTER THE FRAME, THE WHEELS ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENT OF YOUR BICYCLE. THE WHEELS SPECCED ON NEW BIKES ARE MATCHED TO THE PRICE CATEGORY.

Entry-level bikes will come with heavier wheels, while more expensive bikes will come with lighter wheels.

The lighter your wheels, the more efficient they are, markedly improving your bike’s overall performance.

Once you’ve bought a bike that fits your budget, start saving to treat yourself to a new wheelset – it’s the best upgrade you can make on your bike.

MOUNTAIN BIKES FOR ADULTS COME IN THREE DIFFERENT WHEEL SIZES.

IN ORDER TO DETERMINE THE MOST APPROPRIATE WHEEL SIZE FOR YOU, HERE’S A GUIDE:

WH

EELS

WHEELS


THE BEST TYRE FOR YOU?CONDITIONSDry, hard surfaces – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobs Damp, soft surfaces – narrower tyres with wider spaced knobsRocky terrain – wider tyres with reinforced sidewalls and moderately–widely spaced knobsTYPE OF RIDINGDirt roads and basic trails – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobsIntermediate trails and marathon races – wider front tyre with aggressive knob pattern; rounded profile faster-rolling rear tyre. Both should have reinforced sidewalls.Advanced trails and serious gravity riding or racing – very wide tyres with aggressive knob pattern and reinforced sidewalls

ROAD BIKE TYRES AREN'T AS COMPLEX AS MOUNTAIN BIKE TYRES, BUT THERE ARE SOME IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:

WIDTH: They come in various widths, ranging from 18-25mm. There are wider tyres, but they're mostly used on tandems and touring

less rolling resistance.

PUNCTURE PROTECTION: Tyres reinforced to be more puncture resistant are heavier, but more more reliable.

FOLDING: Folding tyres don't have a wire bead so can collapse for easy portability. They're also about 100g lighter than a standard wire-bead tyre – and more expensive.

CLINCHER: Most tyres are 'clincher style', which requires an inner tube and which hooks into the rim.

TUBULAR: A sealed tyre-tube combination that is glued to a special rim. These are very light and expensive and used mostly by professional racers.

TREAD: Most tyres are slick or have a small grooved tread. The grooves

help minimise the amount of water sprayed up by the tyres in wet conditions.

COMPOUND: The composition of the tread that determines road surface grip. Softer compounds

than harder compounds. Some tyre models use a combination of the two.

TUBES: Until tubeless road tyres become the norm (it's in progress), tubes will be essential spares on every ride. Never run low on spare tube stock...

TUBED AND TUBELESS: Most bikes come with tubed tyres, but can be converted to tubeless. Tubeless tyres have no tube but the tyre and rim are one sealed unit that contains a liquid sealant that seals small punctures while you are riding. Tubeless tyres cannot pinch-flat. You minimise puncture risk significantly with tubeless.

DIAMETER: This is the same measure as wheel size – the distance across the tyre. The current range of tyres across all popular mountain bike sizes is: Kiddies/Youth – 12-inch, 16-inch, 20-inch, 24-inch; Adult: 26-inch, 27.5-inch, 29-inch.

WIDTH: This is the broadness of the tyre. A narrower tyre will weigh less, shed mud well

and grip better in damp conditions. A wider tyre will provide a greater surface area for traction in firm and dry conditions and will be more comfortable due to the greater air volume. It’s best to go for a slightly wider front tyre for optimal traction in corners.

TREAD PATTERN: An aggressive tread pattern will have bigger knobs and a square-edged profile to provide excellent traction – ideal for a front tyre. A moderate tread pattern will have smaller, closer spaced knobs with a rounder profile to provide lower rolling resistance – ideal for a back tyre.

SIDEWALL: Tyres with reinforced (thicker)

resistance to sidewall cuts.

ROUND PROFILE MODERATE

TREAD PATTERN

SQUARE EDGED AGGRESSIVE

TREAD PATTERN

MOST ROAD TYRES ARE SLICK WITH A THIN

GROOVE PATTERN

TYRE

S > MOUNTAIN BIKEROAD BIKE MOUNTAIN BIKE


HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES: > are very powerful and reliable in all conditions> operate with hydraulic fluid movement in a sealed system> are more expensive than mechanical brakes> are high-precision with very limited adjustability

MECHANICAL BRAKES:> moderately powerful and less reliable in wet conditions> operate with a mechanical cable system> are less expensive to buy and maintain than hydraulic disc brakes> Are easy to adjust

CARE AND REPLACEMENTBrake pads on both braking systems wear down with use and should be replaced when braking performance becomes poor.

The duration of the pads’ life will depend on how often the bike is ridden, how hard the rider is on braking and the kind of conditions in which the bike is ridden – wet and muddy conditions can accelerate brake pad wear significantly.

Expect to replace brake pads regularly if you ride often. See it more as an investment in your safety than an extra cost.

GEA

RS

MECHANICAL HYDRAULIC DISC

MOST ADULT BICYCLES THESE DAYS COME WITH GEARS. GEARS ARE EVEN PREVALENT ON MANY KIDS’ BIKES. THE GREAT THING ABOUT GEARS IS THAT THEY ALLOW YOU TO PEDAL UP AND DOWN JUST ABOUT ANY GRADIENT ON ANY SURFACE. THERE ARE VARIOUS GEAR OPTIONS ON NEW BIKES, WHICH CAN BE CONFUSING. HERE’S A BASIC EXPLANATION:

GEAR OPTIONSTo determine the total number of gears on a bike, you multiply the number of chainrings by the number of sprockets.

So 3 chainrings x 10 sprockets = 30 gears.In recent years, there’s been a shift towards simplification by parts manufacturers, which has led to the speccing of two chainrings or even one chainring. By increasing the number and tooth-count of the rear sprockets, they’ve managed to create a satisfactory range of gear ratios with less hardware.SHIFTERS: Gear shifters are situated on your handlebars so that you can shift without compromising control. They come in two main styles – ‘rapid-fire’ levers and ‘twistshift’. Most gears are operated mechanically via cables, but some top-end road cycling systems have electronic shifting options.

1. FRONT DERAILLEUR: This shifts the

chain between the chainrings.

2. REAR DERAILLEUR: This shifts the chain across the various sprockets

3. CASSETTE: This is the group of sprockets fixed to the hub on the back wheel. There are between eight and 11 on modern bicycles.

4. CRANKSET: The levers that link your pedals to your chainrings

5. CHAINRINGS: These are the big cogs attached to the cranks/ pedals. There are between one and three on modern bicycles

6. CHAIN: The ‘thread’ that connects the chainrings and the cassette

7. PEDAL: This is where the pedal goes to give you a platform on which to power the entire drivetrain.

HOW MANY GEARS SHOULD YOU HAVE?THERE’S NOT REALLY A RIGHT OR WRONG ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION AND IT CAN VARY FOR ROAD CYCLING AND MOUNTAIN BIKING. HOWEVER, HERE’S A GENERAL GUIDE:

> 3 CHAINRINGS (24-30 GEARS): SOCIAL, RECREATIONAL, SPORTY RIDER> 2 CHAINRINGS (18-22 GEARS): SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER> 1 CHAINRING (10-11 GEARS): SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER

BRAK

ES THERE ARE TWO MAIN BRAKE TYPES – MECHANICAL (COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS SIDE-PULL BRAKES OR V-BRAKES) AND HYDRAULIC BRAKES, FOUND ON MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES.

GEARSBRAKES


1 - Steerer tube2 - Crown3 - Stanchion Brace4 - Air pressure inlet5 - Dropout6 - Rebound adjuster7 - Travel adjuster/lockout and Compression adjuster8 - Stanchion9 - Lower10 - Through-axle

MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES COME WITH A SUSPENSION FORK, WHICH ADDS COMFORT AND CONTROL TO YOUR RIDE.

HERE ARE THE MAIN TERMS RELATING TO SUSPENSION AND WHAT THEY MEAN: TRAVEL

> SHORT-TRAVEL FORK: 80-110mm. Designed for smooth–moderately rough terrain. Found on entry-level bikes and bikes for marathon and cross-country racing. > MEDIUM-TRAVEL FORK: 120-140mm. Designed for moderate-rough terrain and medium-long descents. Found on bikes that offer slightly relaxed geometry, ideal for all-day riding and aggressive trail riding. > LONG-TRAVEL FORK: 150-170mm. Designed for rough terrain and steep or long descents. Found on bikes with relaxed geometry designed for descending at speed

LOCKOUT

Most forks have a lockout option with a lockout switch on the fork. More expensive models have a remote lockout lever, which allows you to operate the fork setting without removing your hand from the handlebar.

You would lock the suspension

out on smooth roads or up long, predictable climbs to eliminate ‘bobbing’ and improve efficiency.

COMPRESSION

This is the speed at which the fork uses its travel/absorbs impact when you hit an obstacle. Too slow and the ride will be harsh. Too fast and the fork will 'bottom out' easily, making for a harsh ride.

REBOUND

This is the speed at which fork bounces back to its original position after compressing on a bump. This can be adjusted on mid-range and top-end forks.

You would adjust the rebound to improve the overall smoothness of the ride. Too fast and the ride becomes bouncy and unstable; too slow and the ride becomes harsh and hard on the body.

SAG

This is how much of the fork travel is used when you sit on the bike without pedalling (determined by your body weight). This needs to be between 20-30% of the total travel and can be adjusted by adding or removing air pressure. You need a shock pump to add or remove air pressure.

You would adjust sag when you buy the bike (initial set-up) and then around once a month to ensure the air pressure remains consistent and appropriate for you.

REAR SHOCK

A rear shock improves overall ride comfort and control, but is more costly. There are different makes and models of rear shock incorporated into various suspension frame designs, but most operate on an air-based system and can be set harder, softer or completely locked out. As with a suspension fork, you can set sag, compression and rebound speeds according to your body weight and/or riding style.

12

7

8

6

9

4

5

10

3

SUSP

ENSI

ON SUSPENSION FORK


IF YOU’RE NEW TO CYCLING, YOU’RE GOING TO ENDURE A SHORT ‘BREAKING-IN’ PERIOD TO GET USED TO SITTING ON A SADDLE AND PEDALLING. IF, AFTER A WHILE (5-6 RIDES OR 10-14 DAYS), YOU ARE STILL EXPERIENCING SADDLE DISCOMFORT, ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CYCLING SHORTS, THEN YOU NEED TO CONSIDER A DIFFERENT SADDLE.

Saddles are quite personal because we all have different shaped bodies and sit slightly differently when pedalling. It’s crucial to get the right saddle for you otherwise you won’t look forward to riding your bike like you should.

The saddle the bike is sold with isn’t necessarily incorrect, but it may just not be the correct saddle for you.

THE KEY POINTS ABOUT SADDLE COMFORT:

> GENDER – the female body is obviously different to the male body and therefore requires a saddle that’s designed for female comfort.

> WIDTH – generally, women and large men are more comfortable on a wider, less-curved saddle because of a wider pelvic structure than medium and small men.

> SHAPE – Different saddle shapes (even slightly different) can make a difference to riding comfort due to the different pressure points it develops.

> DENSITY – a softer saddle isn’t necessarily more comfortable than a hard one. In fact, most often a higher-density saddle is better because it creates less friction than a lower- density saddle.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SADDLE: > We have an in-store saddle fitting system that can assess which is the best type of saddle for you. This is free, non- invasive and takes only a few minutes and could make the world of difference to your comfort.

> Once you find a saddle that suits you, it is likely to last you for a few years, assuming it doesn’t get damaged. If you ride both road and mountain bikes, it’s worth buying the same saddle for both bikes.

> To determine a position of optimal comfort and control, you should get a professional bike set-up done. We offer this in-store at an additional cost. It requires an appointment and will take 45-60 minutes. It’s time and money that you are investing in your health, fitness and long-term enjoyment of cycling.

SAME SADDLE MODEL, DIFFERENT WIDTHS

WIDER, HIGHER DENSITY SADDLE

NARROWER, LOWER-DENSITY SADDLE

WOMEN-SPECIFIC SADDLE

EXTREME CURVATURE (TOO NARROW)

SHALLOW CURVATURE (OPTIMAL WIDTH)

CONT

ACT

POIN

TSBACKSIDE - SADDLE


WHEN RIDING YOUR BIKE, YOUR HANDS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR SUPPORTING YOUR UPPER BODY, CONTROLLING THE STEERING AND OPERATING YOUR GEARS AND BRAKES. THEY’RE A KEY CONTACT POINT WITH YOUR BIKE AND THEREFORE NEED TO BE CAREFULLY CONSIDERED IN TERMS OF COMFORT.

WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER END.

> A wider handlebar gives you more leverage and control, but too wide can cause wrist and hand discomfort.

> A too-narrow bar can compromise bike control and cause unnecessary arm muscle strain, especially in the triceps.

> The general starting width should be 10-15cm wider than your shoulders. Wider bars can usually be trimmed to suit you.

RISE: THE VERTICAL DISTANCE OF THE CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.

> A flat or straight handlebar with no rise gives you more weighting over your front wheel, which improves cornering and climbing control. Ideal for those racing marathons, stage races and cross-country races.

> A riser – or semi-riser – handlebar offers a more comfortable, upright positions, ideal for riders that aren’t concerned about racing, or who do a lot of gravity-related riding.

BACK-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE HORIZONTAL CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.

> This angle can vary for different shape handlebars allowing a rider to find the most comfortable wrist/hand position.

UP-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE VERTICAL CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.

> This angle can vary for different shape handlebars allowing a rider to find the most comfortable wrist/hand position.

STEM: THIS IS THE STRAIGHT TUBE THAT CONNECTS YOUR HANDLEBAR TO YOUR FRAME. STEMS COME IN A VARIETY OF LENGTHS AND ANGLES, WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO FINE-TUNE YOUR IDEAL HANDLEBAR SET-UP.

WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE CENTRE OF THE BAR ON THE RIGHT TO THE CENTRE OF THE BAR ON THE LEFT.

> A wider handlebar gives you more steering leverage and opens up your chest more for more efficient breathing.

> A narrower handlebar can reduce muscular tightness and fatigue in your back, neck and shoulder muscles.

> As a starting guide, your handlebar width should match your shoulder width. Handlebars are measured in centimetres between 36 and 46.

REACH: THE WIDTH OF YOUR HANDLEBAR FROM THE ‘TOP’ TO THE END OF THE ‘DROPS’ AS SEEN FROM THE SIDE.

> If the reach is too long, it can pull you forward on your saddle

which can be uncomfortable, as it forces more of your weight onto your arms instead of distributing your weight between your arms and your backside.

DROP: THE DEPTH OF THE BAR CURVE.

> A drop that’s too deep will rotate your hips too far forward, causing pressure on your pirenium and strain on your hamstrings.

> A too-deep drop also forces you to lift your head higher to look ahead, creating neck muscle stress.

Top viewBack-sweep

Rise

Front view

Flat or straight bar

Semi-riser bar

Riser barCONT

ACT

POIN

TSHANDS - HANDLE BARS/STEM > MOUNTAIN BIKEMOUNTAIN BIKE

ROAD BIKE


YOUR PEDALS ARE OBVIOUSLY THE PLATFORMS THAT ALLOW YOU TO PROPEL THE BIKE FORWARD WHEN PEDALLING; THEY’RE ALSO ‘PEGS’ THAT SUPPORT YOUR BODYWEIGHT, ALLOWING YOU TO CONTROL YOUR CENTRE OF GRAVITY AND BODY POSITION.

TYPES There are four main pedal types:

> FLAT: the most basic pedal. Ideal for: SOCIAL OR RECREATIONAL RIDERS

> FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE TOE CLIP: allows you to secure your feet to your pedals for improved . Ideal for: SPORTY RIDERS

> FLAT-PLATFORM: a more advanced style of flat pedal, usually wider and made from more durable, lighter material. Ideal for: SPORTY YOUTH RIDERS; SERIOUS GRAVITY RIDERS

> CLIPLESS: pedal system that mates your pedal to your cycling shoe. This requires buying a cycling- specific shoe to which you can fit the cleat. Ideal for: SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDERS

THIS IS THE MOST POPULAR AND EFFICIENT PEDAL TYPE AS IT OFFERS THESE BENEFITS:

> SAFETY – being anchored to your pedals allows you to be more stable and in control when descending and cornering

> EFFICIENCY – you can push down AND PULL UP when pedalling, using more of each pedal stroke for propulsion

> SIMPLICITY – Once you’ve mastered the cleating in-and-out process, there’s no thought required on foot placement on your pedals

> INJURY PREVENTION – Pedalling is a repetitive action that can lead to chronic

injury or discomfort through poor most clipless pedals allows for biomechanical nuance forgiveness and reduced injury risk

> DURABILITY - entry- and mid-range clipless pedals are robust and can last for years, requiring minimal maintenance. You will need to buy new cleats from time to time as these wear with use.

Note: There is a steep, but short learning curve

associated with clipless and flat with adjustable toe

clip pedals. The reward is that the transformation

from flat or flat-platform pedals is significant for

anyone that enjoys cycling regularly.

FLAT-PLATFORM

FLAT

CLIPLESS - ROAD

CLIPLESS - MOUNTAIN BIKE

FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE TOE CLIP

FEET - PEDALS

CONT

ACT

POIN

TSWHY GO CLIPLESS?

TOYOTA SUPERCYCLING CLUBSouth Africa’s largest cycling club that offers support for new and experienced cyclists with organised, safe training rides and loads of member benefits.

PWC BIKE PARKA international-standard trail park graded for Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced mountain bikers and safe for women and children.

CYCLE LAB WORKSHOPWe’ve taken South African bike servicing and maintenance to a new level, both in terms of quality and service.

FITTRACKThe personalised online coaching system that can take you to your goals based around your lifestyle and time-constrained schedule.

CYCLE LAB ONLINEWhen convenience is critical, our online store offers the widest range of bikes, spares and accessories.

ONCE YOU’VE MADE YOUR BIKE CHOICE, CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING ASSOCIATED SERVICES THAT WILL ENSURE YOU GET MAXIMUM RETURN ON YOUR NEW INVESTMENT:

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ALL OF OUR SERVICES, VISIT WWW.CYCLELAB.COM

Tel: 011 707 4700 > email: [email protected] Address: GPS co-ordinates:

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