the london eyre shawl

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THE LONDON EYRE SHAWL 11/3/11 2:34 PM

THE LONDON EYRE SHAWL

The front edges of this shawl hang straight down without the characteristic crescent-shaped curve of most sideways-knitted ruffle garter shawls. The shawl is knit in two identical triangles which are reversible, then stitched together along the decreased edges forming a spine down the back.

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MATERIALS:

Yarn: Alpaca with a Twist - Highlander

Gauge: 16 sts/4 inches in garter stitch, 27 rows or 13.5 garter ridges/4 inches in garter stitch Yardage: 400 yards in yarn listed

Needles: US size 10. Adjust your needle size to get gauge.

DIMENSIONS:

NOTES: Work the pattern line by line, performing repeats when indicated.

Because of the garter stitch construction, the shawl lends itself to some reasonable variation in dimensions - depending on the yarn used - during blocking.

Two markers remain in place throughout the body of the pattern. The ruffle marker is between sts 11 and 12 and the neck marker is between sts 2 and 3 from the neck edge.

It is important to do the “lw & k2tog” when it is written.

When you come to a marker which is not mentioned in that line of instructions - just slip it. There are times when leaving out the "sm" helps to clarify the numbers in a line of instruction.

Stitch counts appear at the right hand-side of the page

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ABBREVIATIONS:

kf&b Knit one st through the front, and then the back leg of the next st (increases 1 st)k2tog Knit the next 2 sts together (decreases 1 st)ktm Knit to the next markerktm-x Knit to x sts before the next marker - read the dash as "minus"kw/pw Knit-wise/purl-wiseke Work the line even to the end, slipping the marker(s) as necessary.

lwWith the right needle, lift the wrap (from a short row wrap and turn) from behind and place it on the left needle

lw&k2togLift the wrap that surrounds the base of the next st from behind and onto the left-hand needle. Knit it together with its wrapped st.

m1Make 1 st by lifting the bar between sts onto the left needle and knitting it through the back leg (increases 1 st)

pm Place a markersm Slip a markerrs Right side = ruffle edge to your right as you are knittingws Wrong side = neck edge to your right as you are knittingslip1kw Slip, without working, 1 st knit-wise from left needle to right needleslip1pw Slip, without working, 1 st purl-wise from left needle to right needle

sskSlip the next 2 sts, without working and one-at-a-time, knit wise onto the right needle. Place the tip of the left needle through both front legs at once and knit them together (decreases 1 st)

sr[x]

A short row. Knit [x] sts. Then yarn front, slip the next st purl-wise, yarn back, turn your work clockwise to the opposite side. With yarn in front, slip the next st purl-wise, yarn back, knit [x] sts, slipping marker(s) as necessary. Say, "yo, slip, yo, turn, slip, yo, knit"

p(2)sso

A variation of "psso" (pass slipped st over) which occurs only at a wrapped st. Lift the wrap from behind onto the left needle. Slip the wrap and its wrapped st knit-wise and one-at-a-time, onto the right needle. Knit 1. Pass the 2 slipped sts over the k1 and off the needle.

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ABOUT THE SHORT ROWS:

See “sr[x]” under abbreviations for exactly how to execute a short row with wrap and turn. There are several ways to do a wrap & turn. The one chosen for this pattern is compatible with garter stitch.

All short rows are executed exactly the same way - as given in abbreviations:

a) A short row always starts at the beginning of a row.b) A short row can start on the right side, or on the wrong side. c) A short row can be followed immediately by another short row.d) When a short row begins on the right side (sr[11]), slip the marker after knitting the 11th stitch and before beginning the wrap & turn. e) When a short row begins on the wrong side, the 2 knit sts of the neck edge are included in the number which appears inside the brackets. Thus a wrong side "sr [17]" for example, would be done k2, sm, k15, yo, slip, yo, turn, slip, yo, knit back towards the neck edge. When you get close to the neck edge marker, follow the remaining instructions written on that line.

PATTERN SECTIONS:

The pattern has 6 sections:

Front point Ruffle Increase

Knit Even Turn Corner Ruffle Decrease Back Point

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FRONT POINT

rs cast on 3 sts 3 stsws k3 3rs k1, kf&b, k1 4ws k2, pm, k2 4rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 5ws k2, sm, ke 5rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 6ws sr3 6ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 6rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 7ws k2, sm, ke 7rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 8ws k2, sm, ke 8rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 9ws sr[3] 9ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 9rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 10ws k2, sm, ke 10rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 11ws k2, sm, ke 11rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 12ws sr[3] 12ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 12rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 13ws k2, sm, ke 13rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 14ws k2, sm, ke 14rs ktm, m1, sm, k2 15ws (1) sr[3] 15ws (2) k3, lw&k2tog, ke 15rs (3) ktm, m1, sm, k2 16ws (4) k2, sm, ke 16rs (5) ktm, m1, sm, k2 17

Work the preceding 5 lines 3 times more, to 23 sts, ending rs. Each repeat adds 2 sts.

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RUFFLE INCREASE

ws sr[3] 23

wssr[11] … lw&k2tog at the 4th st. After the turn … ktm, m1, sm, k2.

24

ws k12, lw&k2tog, ke 24

rssr[11] … place a marker on the right needle before executing the w&t

24

rs k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 25ws k2, sm, ke 25rs k to the second marker, m1, k2 26ws sr[3] 26

wssr[14]… lw&k2tog at the 4th st. After the turn … ktm, m1, sm, k2.

27

ws k15, lw&k2tog, ke 27rs k to the second marker, m1, sm, k2 28ws k2, sm, ke 28rs k to the second marker, m1, sm, k2 29ws sr[3] 29ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 29rs (1) sr[11] 29rs (2) k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 30ws (3) k2, sm, ke 30rs (4) sr[11] 30rs (5) k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm, m1, sm, k2 31ws (6) sr[3] 31ws (7) k3, lw&k2tog, ke 31

Work the preceding 7 lines 11 times more, to 53 sts, ending ws. Each repeat adds 2 sts.

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KNIT EVEN

rs sr[11] 53rs k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 53ws ke 53rs sr[11] 53rs k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 53ws sr[3] 53ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 53rs sr[11] 53rs k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 53ws ke 53rs sr[11] 53rs k11, sm, lw, slip2kw, k1, p2sso, ktm, m1, sm, k2 53ws sr[3] 53ws sr[1] (note: this sr will not have a lw&k2tog) 53

wsk3, lw&k2tog (note - this lw&k2tog belongs to the sr[3]), k49

53

TURN CORNER

rs sr[11] 53rs k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-4, k2tog, ssk, sm, k2 51ws k2, sm, k3, k2tog, ke 50rs sr[11] 50rs k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-4, k2tog, ssk, sm, k2 48ws k2, sm, k3, k2tog, ke 47

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RUFFLE DECREASE

rs (1) sr[11] 47rs (2) k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 46ws (3) sr[3] 46ws (4) k3, lw&k2tog, ke 46rs (5) sr[11] 46

rs (6)k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2STOP HERE ON THE LAST REPEAT

45

ws (7) ke 45

Work the preceding 7 lines 8 times more omitting line 7 on the final repeat. There will be 29 sts ending rs. Each repeat loses 2 sts. BACK POINT

ws sr[3] 29ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 29rs k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 28ws ke 28rs k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 27ws sr[3] 27

wssr[15]- lw&k2tog at st #4. After the turn … ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2

26

ws k14, lw&k2tog, sm, k11 26rs k11, sm, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 25ws ke 25rs sr[11] 25rs k11, sm, lw&k2tog, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 24ws sr[3] 24

wssr[12]- lw&k2tog at st #4. After the turn … ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2

23

ws k2, sm, k9, lw&k2tog, sm, k11 23rs k11, remove marker, ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 22ws ke 22rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 21ws sr[3] 21ws k3, lw&k2tog, ke 21rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 20ws ke 20

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BACK POINT (cont)

rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 19ws k2, sm, k13, k2tog, k2 18rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 17ws k2, sm, k11, k2tog, k2 16rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 15ws k2,sm, k9, k2tog, k2 14rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 13ws k2, sm, k7, k2tog, k2 12rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 11ws k2, sm, k9 11rs ktm-2, ssk, sm, k2 10ws k2, remove marker, k8 10rs k6, ssk, k2 9ws k5, k2tog, k2 8rs k4, ssk, k2 7ws k3, k2tog, k2 6rs k2, k2tog, k2 5ws k1, k2tog, k2 4rs k1, k2tog, k1 3ws slip 1kw, bind off 0

MAKE YOUR SECOND PIECE.

Work the pattern again exactly as the first time.

WITH BOTH PIECES FINISHED -

Flip one piece over. Stitch the two pieces together along the decreased edges. Match the neck borders as evenly as possible. Weave in loose ends.

BLOCKING:

Block the completed shawl by the method of your choice. Raise the ruffles in a pleasing arrange-ment and pin them closely on either side of each one. Block the neck border straight along its entire length paying particular attention to the area at the top of the spine.

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ACKNOWLEGDEMENTS

The London Eyre Shawl pattern was created and named solely by me as a replication/copy of a shawl which appears briefly in the 2011 Focus Features film production of Jane Eyre - costume design by Michael O'Connor. According to Focus Features the original shawl was free-knitted by the owner of a company near London, England which produces custom pieces for period films. The name of the pattern is my way of paying tribute to the talented original knitter - whose name is not known to me. To the best of my knowledge, no written pattern exists for the original shawl.

The London Eyre Shawl pattern is available by download and free-of-charge to anyone on Ravelry.com in the form of a PDF document. Please do not copy or distribute it for other than personal use. The shawl should not be made and sold for profit prior to obtaining written permission from me.

I hope you enjoy making this shawl! Any errors found or suggestions for improvements to the pattern will be gratefully accepted by way of private message to doonya on Ravelry.

Published on Ravelry.com October 2011

All Rights Reserved by Donna Strom October 2011

the london eyre shawl

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