T r a v e l E s s e n t i a l s N e w sWinter 2019

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In This Issue

by Robert Bestor

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252 East Main StreetAshland, OR 97520

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The Best Travel Products for Winter and Gift Giving Season!

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Cooking Local Food with Friends Page 3Epic Bike Rides of the World Page 5 Cape Town Capers Page 7

by Nancy Bestor

The Lion Sleeps Tonight — Safari Adventures in Botswana

Carry-On For Three Weeks? Yes You Can!

It was late in the day at Botswana’s Khwai Game Reserve and the lions were on the move. Our guide C.J. had maneu-

vered our specially outfitted, open-sid-ed (yikes!) Land Cruiser into the per-fect spot. We were within just few feet of a tree that offered

a crooked yet sturdy branch running low and parallel to the ground — the perfect spot for each lion in the pride to hop onto and have a quick, yet satisfying stretch before meandering on its way. The branch was about three feet off the ground, as was the undercarriage of our vehicle. And so we six first-time “safari-ers” spent about 10 minutes virtually eye-to-eye with each of the lions who used that branch for a bit of yoga in the wild. That’s right, 10 minutes in an open-sided vehicle, eye-to-eye with the king of the jungle. Several of them in fact.

Then the last of the pride hopped down from the branch and disappeared into the brush, and C.J. quickly said, “I think they are going to cross the river a bit downstream. Hold on tight!” And as dusk settled in and visibility waned, he put the pedal to the metal and we sped and bumped and careened and lurched and slid and rattled as we raced down rugged dirt and sand roads, skidded around tight corners, and bounced across gaping potholes, before suddenly veering off-road, dodging stumps, and crashing through underbrush until we finally popped out next to the river. C.J. pulled the vehicle to a stop and turned to us with a mischievous grin and asked, “Are we still six?” That got a good laugh. And amazingly, as soon as that laugh died out, the first lion popped out of the thicket, followed by the rest of the pride, as they languidly made their way along the riverbank, looking for a place to cross.

And that was pretty much typical of our

Are you trying to decide if you can fit everything you need for a one-week, two-week, or even (gasp) three-week trip into a single carry on bag and a “personal item?” Yes, you can, and I am living proof. On our recent three-week trip to Botswana and South Africa, Bob and I each easily fit everything we needed into a carry on duffel. We each also carried a small backpack with our reading material, computer (Bob), purse (me), and other goodies. And there were clothes in my bag that I did not wear. Truth.

Here are a few things I’ve learned about myself over the years that might lend credence to my story.

It’s that time of year when we all want to cozy up with warm blankets, and spend time with the ones we love. Here are a few travel and gift items to keep you warm this winter and make your travels (and gift giving) easier and more comfortable too!

Patagonia Nano PuffPatagonia’s Nano Puff Jacket is a great choice to get you through those cold wintery days at home and on the road. This toasty warm, windproof, and water-

resistant jacket stuffs into its own chest-pocket for easy packing and features a PrimaLoft insulation that, unlike traditional down, maintains its warmth even when wet. The Nano Puff ($199.00) also boasts a lightweight yet rugged 100% recycled polyester shell, cozy zippered hand pockets, and is both Fair Trade Certified™ and bluesign® approved. It’s available in both men’s and women’s styles and is sure to keep you warm and dry this winter. We’re big fans of

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The Lion Sleeps Tonight — Safari Adventures...

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10-day adventure with Letaka Safaris.

Africa is a long, long way away. In the end, from Ashland, Oregon, it took us six flights and nearly three days via Denver, New Jersey, Cairo, and Johannesburg before we finally shook hands with C.J. We met on a dirt airstrip, deep in the Okavango Delta, after a cramped, hot and very bouncy 20-minute bush plane ride from Maun, Botswana.

So, given these logistics, we figured this safari might be our one and only such experience. This led to lots and lots of research, both by us and by our travel companions, my sister Laura, and her husband Philip. And after reviewing dozens of safari outfitters, and picking the brains of friends, family and customers alike, we decided to roll the dice with Letaka and their 10-day, Northern Highlights Mobile Tent Safari, that included three days each in the Moremi Game Reserve, the Khwai Concession Area and Chobe National Park. We came up winners.

The excitement began soon after our airstrip meet up with C.J. He informed us that although it was already late afternoon, he wanted to hustle back to camp, pick up our fellow safari companions, a delightful couple from just outside of London, and head right out, because there was a nearby kill. A few lions had recently taken down a buffalo near the camp and they were still on the scene protecting their prize. We arrived to find two adult lions lounging in the deep, dry grass near their quarry, and about a dozen vultures perched on nearby trees, patiently checking out the scene from on high. Quite a start it was.

Later that same first afternoon, we zipped past zebras, impala, giraffes, warthogs, elephants and birds of all kinds. We zipped past because we were on our way to track down a leopard. C.J. and his fellow guides

did a great job of communicating their finds to each other. And while viewing the lions, he got notice of a nearby leopard. With it being our first afternoon, we were fascinated by, and ready to stop for, any animal we saw. But C.J. said, “We will see plenty of zebras, giraffes and impala. But leopards are rare.” And soon we were within 15 feet of a lithe, elegant and powerful leopard drowsing on a large, low branch. We were close enough to see its muscles rippling under its silky coat every time it shifted position. It was a remarkable opening day and wonderful glimpse into what was in store for us.

Over the next nine days, we rose every morning at dawn and chased animals

until lunch. We’d return for a several hour siesta in the afternoon, and then looked for animals again from late afternoon until sunset. C.J.’s guiding skills and enthusiasm for the task at hand were impressive. And his tracking ability and knowledge of animal behavior is remarkable. He’s been doing it for 12 years, and despite the certain burden of ensuring his guests have a good time and keeping them safe, his passion, spirit and sense of humor showed no signs of waning.

We saw giraffes, warthogs, buffalo, storks, leopards, a black mamba, hippos, wild dogs, eagles, impalas, hyenas, guinea fowl, and so much more. We saw a pride

of lions ford a stream under the cover of night, and we saw a herd of 70 elephants cross the mighty Chobe River with their babies bobbing along and using their trunks as snorkels. We did not see any kills, but we did see their aftermath. We happened upon Botswana’s 23-lion strong Marsh Pride the morning after they had taken down an elephant. It was gory and it was grotesque. But it was also gripping. Twenty-two lions lounged in the nearby shade with full bellies and bloody chops, while one enormous cat still gnawed at the kill by herself.

The Letaka crew was so good they almost stole the show from the wildlife. From 5:30 each morning until we zipped our

tents shut at the end of each long, hot, exhausting yet wonderfully thrilling day, Letaka met our every need. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, late morning coffee and snacks, and high tea were on the program every single day. Ice cold drinks were always available. Fresh, clean and perfectly damp, cooling towels and refreshing juices were at the ready every time we returned to camp from a long, hot and dusty game drive. Led by C.J., our crew of Mmula, Kabelo and Buncy were diligent, attentive and tireless. Twice they packed up our entire camp, moved it several hours away, and had it perfectly set up for our arrival in a whole new

location. All around it was an impressive display of friendly competence, efficiency and genuine enthusiasm without ever feeling over the top or fawning. It was all just right. They were so good that the fee of $5,200 per person before tips seemed well worth it.

In the end, it was 10 days immersed in the wildlife of southern Africa. Ten days of bucket showers, campfires, sweltering siestas, gin and tonics, and unidentified animals scratching around our tent in the middle of the pitch-black night. Ten days in a seemingly boundless wilderness, often face to face with some of earth’s most beautiful, imposing, and exquisite

“I had long ago learned that when you are the giant, alien visitor to a remote and foreign culture it is sort of your job to become an object of ridicule. It’s the least you can do, really, as a polite guest.”—ElizabEth GilbErt

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Cooking with Friends in Cape Town by Nancy Bestor

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” — tErry PratchEtt

I’m a firm believer that food provides us a window into different cultures. Whether you’re trying a new recipe from a distant land and have to seek out spices you’ve never heard of, or you’re visiting a new country and decide to eat what the locals eat, rather than looking for the “typical American breakfast,” or a hamburger and french fries, I believe we learn so much about a place and its people when we immerse ourselves in their food.

Thus when Bob and I are traveling, we always try and make sure food plays an integral part in our trip. We want to learn about different cultures, but truth be told, I’m also always thinking about my next meal, wondering how to prepare my next meal, and deciding where I’m going to eat my next meal. I really love walking when I’m traveling too, and if you’re wondering if I walk to burn off calories and make more room for my next meal, you wouldn’t be wrong. Thus, I’d be a less happy traveler if food was not a big part of my trip.

On our recent trip to Cape Town, we researched all the best places to eat every meal, but we also tried to find a great food tour of the city. Every highly recommended tour was either not operating while we were there (we were visiting around a national holiday), or completely booked up. Thus it was serendipitous when a friend introduced me to Airbnb Experiences. I am quite familiar with booking accommodations on Airbnb, but their Experiences were new to me. Airbnb’s Experiences are designed and led by locals, with the goal

for the locals being to earn money leading people on activities that spotlight their city, craft, cause or culture. By meeting three quality standards – expertise, access (providing access to places, recipes and communities only locals know about), and connection (inspire conversation and create belonging) – and being reviewed and approved by Airbnb, locals can offer a wide range of experiences to travelers.

The experience that most appealed to us

was cooking local Cape Malay food, in the home of a Cape Town Native. Fayruza offers several different options and we chose to take her two-hour class where we made bobotie, which many consider to be the national dish of South Africa, and samoosas. The class, at $56 each, was a huge success. Fayruza met us at the door of her family home, where she lives with her children, and her brother and his children. She welcomed Bob and I, along with Bob’s sister and her husband, as if we were long time friends, and then we got to work. We chopped vegetables, stirred sauces and meats, and all the while visited with Fayruza, learning about her family, Cape Malay cuisine, the ties between Indonesia and South Africa, and the history of Cape Town and apartheid, from the perspective of someone whose family lived through it. Fayruza’s mother was “relocated” from District Six to the Cape Flats in the late 60’s, and only recently was offered restitution.

After preparing the bobotie and getting it into the oven, Fayruza taught us how to fold samoosas, which is not as easy as it looks. We sat around her kitchen table laughing and folding, while she told us about her book group, where the women rarely read the book (this sounds vaguely familiar), but come together to socialize, and often fold samoosas! She also told funny stories about her family and her previous jobs, and offered some pearls of wisdom on doing what you love, like offering cooking classes, instead of working a stressful job in a corporate setting—what she did most recently before starting her cooking classes. She asked about our jobs and lives in the U.S., and offered suggestions on other things not to miss in Cape Town. Once our folding job was done, and Fayruza had deep-fried the samoosas, it was time to enjoy the bounty of our hard work.

The five of us sat at Fayruza’s dining room table, and ate our meal together, as if we had been getting together on a regular basis for years. We ate the delicious bobotie, the samoosas, sambal — a Cape Malay salsa of sorts — and a delightful baked dessert. Several members of her family popped into the dining room and kitchen area to say hello to us, which only made us feel more welcome.

I was a little sad when it was time to leave, because Fayruza was such a delightful host. Like any great host however, she promised to send us recipes of everything we cooked, and gave us each a parting gift of blended spices. We also couldn’t leave without each of us receiving a hug on the way out, because when you’re saying goodbye to friends after sharing a lovely meal, that’s just what you do.

Safari... continued from page 2

creatures. Hopefully it won’t be the trip of a lifetime, because maybe we’ll get the chance to return someday down the road. And if we do, we won’t take any chances. We’ll be booking straightaway with Letaka Safaris.

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Best Travel Products for Winter and Gift Giving.. Patagonia, of both their business practices and the quality of their merchandise. We’re proud to be new dealers, and excited to offer many great Patagonia products to our customers.

Kikkerland Travel StrawSay “No!” to plastic straws! Kikkerland’s Travel Straw Set ($8.95) is eco-friendly, reusable, collapsible and fun! It’s the perfect drinking companion for both home and the road. The telescoping design makes it compatible for both

large and small glasses and bottles, and everything in between. It also comes with a handy carrying case and an even handier telescoping brush for easy cleaning.

ThermaRest Lumbar PillowThis self-inflating little wonder is just the ticket for maximum lower back relief. Whether you have a long flight in your future or just need something for everyday car use, the ThermaRest Lumbar Pillow ($29.95) is built to last with the same materials and the same uncompromising specifications as their acclaimed camping and backpacking pads. Its self-inflation feature is as easy as twisting its valve open and standing back while it does its thing. It’s also adjustable to your favorite firmness and easily deflates for handy

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Data Blocking Spandex Waist BeltWe strongly recommend using an RFID blocking money belt for your passport, credit cards and cash when you are on the road. It’s a simple way to secure these valuable items against pickpockets and data skimmers. The latest and most interesting take on this travel staple is the Data Blocking Waist Belt ($19.95) from Lewis N. Clark. It combines RFID blocking technology that keeps your credit card information safe, with a stretchy and quick-drying spandex fabric that allows

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Hydro FlaskSure, you want your hot coffee to stay hot and your ice-cold, refreshing beverages to stay ice-cold and refreshing. Well, Oregon’s own Hydro Flask ($27.95 and up) leads the charge in the fight against lukewarm beverages. Their patented line of insulated bottles is a recent addition to our store and features TempShield double-walled vacuum insulation to lock in temperature, 18/8 stainless steel for pure taste, and a long-lasting ergonomic design for years of use. Hydro Flasks bottles come in an array of fun colors and handy sizes, and we carry an assortment of styles and accessories that includes every thing from coffee mugs to 40oz. wide mouth bottles, ensuring that you’ll find the right bottle for you or the one you love.

FjällRäven KänkenLed by their simple but stylish backpacks, the Känken and Känken Mini, FjällRäven bags are the epitome of Scandinavian whimsy and practicality. First developed in 1978 to help prevent back problems in Swedish school children, 40 years later, the Känken is still going strong. Its patented lightweight Vinylon-F fabric is water and dirt resistant, dries quickly, and cleans up easily with a soft brush and lukewarm water. Both the Känken ($79.95) and the Känken Mini ($69.95) feature handy external pockets for superior organization and a removable foam pad that works great as a seat cushion. Adjustable shoulder straps ensure a perfect fit and an ever-changing selection of fun

“Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the Titanic who waved off the dessert cart.” — Erma bombEck

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“It is difficult to steer a parked car. So get moving.”— hEnriEtta mEars

Best Travel Products for Winter and Gift Giving.. colors guarantee that you’ll find one that’s sure to fit your very own style.

Briggs & Riley Baseline Luggage 100% Lifetime GuaranteeFor nearly 50 years, Briggs & Riley has set the standard in the luggage industry. There’s a good reason Briggs is always found at the top of Consumer Reports ratings – they make the best stuff. And that would make Briggs & Riley’s Baseline Collection the best of the best. Its Outsider Handle System and excellent CX Compression Technology work together to help you pack more than ever before in carry-on bags and check-sized bags too! Briggs’ Baseline Collection ($395 and up) starts at wheeled totes and offers U.S. carry-on bags, international carry-ons and checkable sizes, and almost all are available in both two-wheel and four-wheel spinner versions. And of

course, each Briggs & Riley Baseline bag is backed by their widely acclaimed “Simple as That®” lifetime guarantee that protects your bag against damage caused by airlines. That’s a package that is pretty hard to beat.

Lonely Planet Epic Series Chock full of detailed travel information, inspirational photos, and dramatic first-person accounts, Lonely Planet’s Epic Travel Guides ($35) will have you dreaming of far off adventures soon after you begin leafing through their pages. Each of these attractive hardcover volumes provides over 300 full-color pages and all the insight and motivation you’ll need to tackle the world’s greatest hikes, drives, runs and bike rides. Everything from hiking the Westweg in Germany’s Black Forest to cycling Washington’s San Juan

Islands and from China’s Great Wall Marathon to crossing Chile’s Carretera Austral by car is here to whet your adventure appetite. The list of Epic titles includes: Epic Bike Rides of the World, Epic Hikes of the World, Epic Drives of the World, Epic Runs of the World, and Epic Bike Rides of the Americas.

Universal USB Travel Adaptor KitLots of travelers stay in hotel rooms where the number of electrical outlets does not match up with the number of electrical devices that need to be charged on a nightly basis. This is where the Worldwide USB Adaptor Kit ($24.00) steps in to give you all you’ll need to charge two

USB powered devices in a single outlet simultaneously, just about anywhere in the world. With two USB ports (1A and 2.1A),

this compact kit is perfect for tablets, smart phones, cameras and more.

Patagonia Ultralight Hip PackWeighing a feathery 3.5 ounces, Patagonia’s Ultralight Black Hole Hip Pack is the ideal mini waist pack. Made from a rugged, recycled, and bluesign® approved rip-stop nylon, the Black Hole Hip Pack ($29.00) boasts a main pocket that easily houses a large phone with plenty of room to spare. It also has a smaller, zippered front pocket for easy organization and quick access to smaller items, and also doubles as a stuff sack. A padded back panel and soft, herringbone webbing make it comfortable to wear no matter what you may have packed into it. It’s perfect for everything from a

neighborhood stroll to the world’s greatest hiking trails and is backed by Patagonia’s Iron Clad Guarantee.

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Carry On For Three Weeks? Yes You Can!...continued from page 1

“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.”—maya anGElou

1. I really don’t care if people see me in the same outfit more than once, or even several days in a row. Our Botswana safari being the exception, I rarely see people more than one time when I am traveling. We might get together for dinner with someone we know once, we might take an afternoon food tour with another group of people, we might go to a concert, eat at a restaurant, or go to a museum, one time. So if I’m wearing the same outfit day in and day out, no one but Bob will be the wiser. (One could arguably ask the question of whether or not Bob would even be the wiser. Does he notice what I’m wearing? Debatable.) And if the hotel concierge or bartender at a pub happens to see me multiple times, what are the chances that she is going to pay attention to the fact that I’m wearing the same outfit I wore yesterday? And more importantly, if she does notice, why does it matter?

On our safari, where showers were short and sweet, it seemed silly to put on new clothes (outside of underwear, I do have some standards) every day. We were riding on dusty roads, hanging out at campsites in the dirt, and sitting by smoky fires. My clothes were going to get dirty moments after I put them on.

2. My clothes are built for comfort and durability, not high fashion. I’d like to tell you this is true only for the clothes I take when traveling, but if you looked in my closet, you’d quickly realize I am never a high fashion kind of gal. I tried pointy-toed high heeled shoes a few times, and realized they are the most ridiculous invention ever, and I always work my outfits around comfortable shoes (if you can call what I’m doing working an outfit).

In Botswana, and then after our safari in Cape Town, I wore Patagonia’s Quandary Pant every single day. These pants have proven to be a great seller on the floor at Travel Essentials, and I can see why. They are extremely comfortable, made of a stretchy nylon and spandex blend, they are lightweight, and can roll up into capris. They also have several pockets, including a zippered one for valuables, and not to brag or anything, but they look great on.

Most of our customers, women and men, buy them once they’ve tried them on. And that’s not always the case with pants, am I right ladies? For my tops, I rotated between a 100% cotton long sleeved top from Patagonia, and a BugsAway long sleeved top from ExOfficio. With both tops, the sleeves could be rolled up and buttoned into a short sleeve-ish length, but I appreciated the long sleeves for sun protection. And the BugsAway top kept me from getting mosquito bites, and thus malaria. I did take malaria medication too, just to be on the safe side.

3. The type of carry on bag I use directly correlates to the type of trip I am taking. If I’m going to be traveling in cities, and will have to get my bag from the airport onto a train, or walk many blocks to my Airbnb, I’m going to take a rolling carry on bag. But if I’m traveling in a place with lots of dirt or sand, a backpack is my preferred method. It’s not easy to roll bags through sand—I remember this from a trip to Belize, where we got off a boat and had to walk a ways along the beach to our lodging. But given the opportunity, I’ll take a rolling bag any day.

For the safari portion of our trip, soft sided duffel bags were required. I’m guessing that’s because they stack better on the roof of safari vehicles, and it’s definitely easier to stuff duffels into a small chartered airplane. Thus Bob and I each took a duffel bag from Eagle Creek. I had the Cargo Hauler Duffel 40L, and Bob the Migrate Duffel 40L. Both duffels have tuck away backpack straps so you can carry them either as a traditional duffel, or attach the straps and carry them as backpacks. This proved very handy on all facets of our trip. The Cargo Hauler, at $99, is $20 more than the Migrate. In both of our opinions, the $20 price difference is definitely worth it for the additional features that the Cargo Hauler provides. The Cargo Hauler has end pockets, in addition to its main pocket, while the Migrate has no pockets other than the main compartment. The Cargo Hauler also has a u-shaped opening, which makes it easier to get items in and out of the bag. The Migrate has a straight across, top zipper opening only.

4. My usual “personal” bag is the largest bag I can get away with as a personal bag. Style is less important than functionality and space – see number two above. I don’t need my bags to match and I don’t need them to be “hip.” I just want them to function in the best way possible for me, and I want to have as much space as possible and still be able to carry them on. If I’m taking a rolling bag as my main carry on, I also want the personal bag to have a “zip-slip” and slide over the handle of the rolling bag, thus making it convenient to roll them both at the same time. If I’m taking a backpack, the type of secondary bag is not as critical.For this trip, I took a small backpack, the Osprey Daylite, as my personal bag. I knew I wouldn’t be able to put both bags on my back, so I would either have to

carry the Cargo Hauler, or wear it on my back and wear the smaller backpack on my front, just like the European backpacking kids do. That wasn’t my choice, style wise, but for convenience sake, I ended up wearing the two backpacks frequently, style be damned.

5. No matter what my husband might say, I am a low maintenance woman. When I travel, I bring makeup, but often don’t wear it. I bring gel to keep my hair from

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Cape Town Capers — Six Days of Explorationby Nancy Bestor

Getting to the African continent from the west coast of the United States is no short trip. Thus, when making plans to visit Botswana for a safari with Bob’s sister and her husband, we all knew we should take the opportunity to tack on another African destination while we were already there. Who knows when we’ll get the chance to return?

Thus at the end of our safari, we flew to Cape Town for six days, soaking up the culture, food, and sights of this coastal South African city. Our goal for this visit was to eat as much seafood as possible, and see as many of Cape Town’s beautiful and historically important sights as time would allow. Here are our highlights.

At the very top of our “to do” list was a visit to Robben Island, home of the maximum security prison where many political activists were held between 1961 and 1991. The most famous, of course, was Nelson Mandela, who lived on Robben Island for 18 of the 27 years he was jailed. Tours of Robben Island leave Cape Town four times a day, and are often sold out weeks in advance. Because we’re such careful planners, we got online to buy tickets the day we arrived in Cape Town, only to find it was sold out for the entire week. Bob’s sister wisely kept checking back on the website, and lo and behold, four tickets ($37.50 each) opened up for us the next morning. After a five-mile ferry ride from the city, we boarded buses on Robben Island for the two-minute drive to the prison. What the tour of Robben Island lacks in organization, it makes up in history and impact. We were met at the prison by a former inmate, who toured us through the cells, told stories about his fellow prisoners, and explained how the amount of rations prisoners received depended on the color of their skin. White and colored prisoners received more rations than black prisoners. Then we boarded the bus again to tour a bit of the island, passing the limestone quarry where Mandela and other prisoners dug up rocks daily for more than

13 years. The tour was eye opening, and sobering.

We also learned a great deal about apartheid on our visit to the District Six Museum. With stories and photos from locals who were forcibly relocated to the Cape Flats, or townships, the Museum ($3 each) gives a personal look at exactly what happened during apartheid, and how it affected the lives of millions of South Africans.

We got another insider’s look at Cape Town, and specifically the Bo-Kaap district, on a free walking tour with Cape Town Free Walking Tours. Sign-ups are taken at the Motherland Coffee Company, and Wilmarie, a friendly local, provided great information about Cape Town, the Bo-Kaap district, and the influence of Cape Malay people, who were exiled from the Dutch East Indies to Cape Town as laborers, slaves and political exiles, and settled mostly in the Bo-Kaap district. The tour was 90 minutes, and is offered several times a day, every day, all year round. Payment is through tips only.

Another very popular tourist site in Cape Town is a visit to Table Mountain. Sitting at 3,500 feet above sea level, one can hike to the top, or take a fancy cable car. The cable car holds 65 people, rotates 360 degrees, and reaches the top in about five

minutes. We considered hiking to the top, but decided to take the easy way out and bought tickets online for the cable car. Even with buying tickets in advance, and arriving at 8:30, when the tram opens, we still waited 90 minutes to get our turn to ride. We were told that wait times can be as much as 3-4 hours. Yikes! The trams only run when it is not too windy, and Table Mountain is often shrouded in fog, so a clear warm day does bring out the people. The top of Table Mountain really

is extraordinary, featuring a two-mile flat plateau with pathways, beautiful flora and fauna, and views of Cape Town, Robben Island, and the Atlantic and Indian Oceans.

Cape Town’s location between two oceans and near the southernmost tip of Africa translates, in my language of love, to delicious seafood. And we ate delicious seafood every day we were there. My favorites included sushi at Izakaya Matsuri in the Green Point district, seared tuna over rice and noodles at Ocean Jewels in the Woodstock neighborhood, oysters at the weekend OZCF farmers market, and the best, Miller’s Thumb, a 25 year old restaurant where the owner stops at each table to advise on the fish selection and menu choices. This place was so good that we ate there

twice in our six-day visit to Cape Town. While none of these meals were fancy, nor particularly expensive, they were outstanding, and highly recommended.

We also wanted the opportunity, however, to eat food that was truly local, or what I call “cheap eats.” Two places on our trip met that definition, and they were the only restaurants we ate in with a mix of both black and white patrons. The first, Kalky’s, was a fish and chips shack in Kalk Bay Harbor. Teeming with people on a national holiday, the fish options were many, and the portions huge. The second locals spot, Mzoli’s, is a braai (barbecue) joint located in a township on the outskirts of Cape Town, with a whole system for ordering, eating, and more. After walking in to the “butcher shop” area of the restaurant, you pick your meat out from behind the glass counter, then you pay by the weight. They give you the raw meat,

“Life is like a game of poker. If you don’t put any in the pot, there won’t be any to take out.” — lorEtta mary aikEn continued on page 8

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Carry On For Three Weeks?...getting frizzy, but often let that go too. I do shower, and brush my teeth and wash my face, but the maintenance pretty much stops there. This cuts down on toiletries, which is a good thing, as I wear contact lenses, and enough cleaning solution for three weeks takes up several 3.4 ounce bottles, which in turn fill up a quart-sized TSA approved liquids bag pretty quickly.

Other ways I cut down on toiletries include taking a 2-in-1 shampoo, with built in conditioner. I take a dry bar of soap, and put it in a Matador Flat Soap Case, which doesn’t leak, yet still dries the soap at the same time. The best way I cut down on toiletries, however, is to look at all of my lodging ahead of time and determine if soap and shampoo are provided. If they are, as they were on every stop of this trip to Africa, including the safari, I leave my soap and shampoo home.

6. I don’t mind doing a little bit of laundry the old fashioned way. It’s really not that hard to wash a sink full of laundry every other day. The clothes I travel with are all

lightweight and quick drying, designed for this very purpose. They might not be as clean as a washing machine gets the clothes clean, but it’s pretty much good enough.

On our safari, the terrific staff would launder our clothes as needed. The only thing they wouldn’t wash were underwear and socks (can you blame them?). So three times in 10 days, Bob or I washed them ourselves. We used Sink Suds laundry detergent, and brought along a handy travel clothesline. It was hot in Botswana, and our quick-drying underwear from ExOfficio was dry in less than 30 minutes, and our socks in a couple of hours.

You’ve probably realized by now that I don’t look very fancy when I’m traveling. You’ve also probably realized I don’t look very fancy when I’m not traveling either. What I give up in fancy, however, I gain by not having to wait for checked bags at my destination. I gain by not having feet that hurt at the end of the day. And I gain by clothes that expand and contract (but mostly expand) when I need them to. I’ll take that over fancy any day.

and you walk it back to the barbecue pits, where after giving a tip to the pit masters, they cook your meat, then bring it out to you in the tented area, where there are tables, and seriously loud DJ mixed electronic music. And by seriously loud, I mean, you can’t talk to the people at your own table without yelling. This is a BYOB establishment, and our one beer each made us look like lightweights. It’s also a bring your own silverware establishment, which thankfully we had read before arriving. Our eyes were much bigger than our stomachs, but somehow we managed to eat all the steak, pork sausage, pork belly and pork chops, along with three sides, that we had ordered, for about $20 total.

Cape Town is an interesting city. On the one hand, it is cosmopolitan, with upscale dining choices and fancy bars. But on the other hand, it is a city in a third world country, where there is a very clear definition of the have’s and the have nots. Cape Town’s history of racism and apartheid still seems to affect every facet of life today. It’s come a long way, but just like everywhere else, it still has a long way to go.

Cape Town... continued from page 7