The Last Panther in Pomerania

The Last Panther in Pomerania

by Rhodes WilliamsContents History (page 1)

Building the Shanghai-Dragon "Pz. Kpfw. V. Ausf G "Night Fighting" Panther (page 6)

Construction (page 7)

IR solutions (page 11)

Painting & Weathering (page 17)

The Diorama (page 23)

Figurines (page 29)

Conclusion (page 31) Gallery (page 31)

Items Used (page 37)

Referrences (page 38) About the author (page 42)

Photography (page 42)

Kampfgruppe Kausch of the 11.SS-PzGr.Div. "Nordland" & 27.SS-Grenadier-Div. "Langemarck", of III.SS.Pz.Korps in the Arnswalde Sector February 18th, 1945.

HistoryThe twilight of the Third Reich-February 1945. The Eastern Front has collapsed. The Soviet 2nd Belorussian Front (Rokossovsky) attacks across the Narev Bridgehead into East Prussia. By the 15th the Red Army captures Sagan in Silesia whilst shock troops, with unabated ferocity, attack westward into the province of Pomerania. Under continues pressure from the Russian Armies, the wasted remnants of the Waffen SS panzer armees launch Operation Sonnenwende in a last ditch effort to prolong the inevitable. All three Korps from the 11.SS-Panzer-Armee (XXXIX.Panzer, III.SS-Panzer, and X.SS) prepare a counter-thrust through the Prussian province of Pomerania. Here, in nightmarish conditions a Kampfgruppe from the 11.SS-PzGr.Div. "Nordland" & 27.SS-Grenadier-Div. "Langemarck", of III.SS.Pz.Korps attacks south towards Arnswalde (about 30-35 kilometers southeast of Stargard).

The next day, February 16th on the Eastern front in Pomerania, the remaining units of the 11.SS-Panzer-Armee launch fully into Operation Sonnenwende, which in reality is a severely restricted counter-offensive to relieve the Kuestrin area.

11.SS-Freiw.Panzer Grenadier Division "Nordland", containing the sickly remnants of the SS-Panzer Grenadier Regiment 23 "Norge" and 24th "Danmark", SS-Panzer Aufkl.Abt.11, SS-Pz.Abt.11 "Hermann von Soza" (zeitw. Mits. SS-Panzer Abt.503 auch SS-Panzer Regiment 11), SS-Panzer Artillery Regiment 11, SS-Flak Abt.11, SS-tu.G.Abt.11, SS-Paner Jger Abt.11, SS-Panzer Pioneer Batalion l.11th , and SS-Panzer Nachr.Abt. 11 fight delaying actions against overwhelming Russian superiority in conditions totally unsuitable for armored combat, let alone retreat. The narrow roads in the Arneswald sector were particularly horrendous as not only were they unsuited for armored movement, they were also clogged with mud from early spring thaws, and infiltrated by advanced Russian shock troops carrying captured German equipment including the deadly panzerfausts. By the 18th, the Red Army encircles Graudenz on the Vistula, and the wasted troops of the 11.SS-Panzer-Armee are brought to a stand still.

With this action in mind came the primer for this diorama-the last functioning Panther in the region, heavily damaged by Russian Russian armor and AT, has somehow managed to remain in running order. Having rounded up stragglers, SS-Haupsturmfuhrer Kausch and his Panther attempt to regain friendly lines. Having caught a Russian unit armed with Panzerfausts on a narrow mountain road just before dawn, the IR capable Kampfgruppe Kausch has waxed eleven of twelve Russian shock troops. The twelfth, raising his arms in surrender, will not be spared as he carries kit made mostly of German issue.

Although there is no definitive proof of the Germans fielding IR solutions, the time frame does not preclude them either. Reports of IR equipped Panthers being used is supported by several texts. However, there is no solid evidence, at all, of IR Vampir gear being issued to troops. Still, I could not resist creating a Dantesque like diorama based on these experimental weapons.

I had wished to build a small based diorama for some time after languishing on a much larger scale for more than five years. I decided in November of 1997 to begin work on a diorama of manageable proportions to take to shows. It would contain a single Panther G and a "few" figurines. The hope was to complete it in time for AMPS 2000. In the end I finished it one month after that convention.

HISTORY of the PANTHER AUSF. G An entire monograph could easily be written on the technology and development that led to the Panther. Suffice it to say, the Panther was certainly one of Germany's best main battle tanks of the war. For the purpose of this article I will only briefly delve into the final version of the Ausf G. Following a directive from Hitler on 27 February, 1944, the designation for the Panther-PzKpfw V- was dropped, and the final production variant built between March of 1944 and April of 1945 was simply known as the Panther Ausf. G. MAN, Daimler-Benz and MNH all built the Ausf. G. with a combined total output of 2953 Panthers. To simplify production, the Ausf. G had modified superstructure sides, and hull sides increased in thickness to 50mm. The angle of slope was also altered. The headlight was repositioned from the left side of the glacis to the left fender and the engine deck was also redesigned and shortened.

The Kinnwalzenblende, or chin mantlet was also newly designed for the main gun mantlet to eradicate a shot trap deflecting shells through the hull roof. The driver's vision port was replaced by a traversing vertical periscope since the fixed episcopes restricted vision. The tool racks were also revised and some very late production vehicles had all-steel resiliently sprung wheels of the type, but not size, fitted to the late production Tiger and Tiger II. In very late production Ausf G's, the cylindrical stowage box for the gun pull-through and cleaning gear was removed from the port side and mounted across the hull at the rear of the engine compartment.

Ausf G's were no longer painted RAL 7028 (Dunkelgelb), instead leaving the factory in red oxide primer. In October of 1944 a raised heating tower over the rear portside circular engine fan was installed. Its purpose was to pull hot air from the engine radiator and direct it into the crew compartment. Beginning in December 1944 Flammvernichter, or exhaust flame suppressing mufflers were attached to a shortened exhaust pipe. This had a fan like grill in the outlet opening which killed flames or sparks from engine gases. These alterations to the basic Panther design were to be the last production modifications seen.

Building the Shanghai-Dragon "Pz. Kpfw. V. Ausf G "Night Fighting" Panther

I few years back I purchased the Shanghai-Dragon "Pz. Kpfw. V. Ausf G "Night Fighting" Panther (#9045) with the intention of adding a complete set of Aber PE. Well, with a monstrous and frustrating diorama on my workbench the Panther collected dust. When I purchased this kit Aber was just coming on scene so I ordered from GP Hobbies in Krakow, Poland, the complete Panther photo-etch sets, of which there are three: "Panther Ausf. G (Sd.Kfz.171) General Details and Upgrade Set (#35 024)" which includes the lovely weaved look engine screens, the "Front Fenders and Side Supports for Panther Ausf. G/F and Jagdpanther (35 A24)" and "Side Skirts for Panther Ausf. G/F and Jagdpanther (#35 A24) containing the complete side skirts for the G. Now mind you the Aber set is intended for the Tamiya G, but, almost without exception, the fit on the Dragon kit is clean.

Shanghai-Dragon is an offshoot of Dragon (DML) proper. Typically they reissue Dragon kits at a discount price. The Panther G was unusual as it was released originally by Shanghai-Dragon. At least that is what Dragon claims. Although this is marketed as "All New Tooling" there is a lot of Gunze in this box. The engine hatch cover molded onto the hull is reminiscent of the old "High-Tech" kit, and the roadwheels are a dead give away. It really didn't matter to me, it is a fine kit, and at $19.00 USD it is a good buy, particularly since you also receive several sprues of parts meant for the Jagdpanther. Out of the box this will build a very handsome Panther G and there is no need to supplement any of it unless by choice. The 7.5cm barrel cleans up perfectly, with care, and the included link to link caterpillars are very nice with the obvious omission of the hollow guide horns.

As it happened I had a Tamiya "Panther G Late Version" (#35176) I intended to use for the On Track Models Bergpanther conversion so I had a few parts I could supplement just out of personal choice

ConstructionThe build up of the Dragon kit is fun and without any real headaches. However, as I wished to use the Aber PE sets I had to constantly hop back and forth between directions at every step. Before I started gluing anything I read over more than a few times the Dragon and Aber instruction sheets. Also, bookmarking references were helpful as a few bits in the Aber instructions were not properly placed.

After feeling secure enough in the knowledge that I had read the various directions I decided to improve the texture and the weld seems on the Dragon hull and turret. I built the hull and turret per the instructions and then covered the panels with Model Master "Liquid Cement". With an old rough rush I stippled it and then when still somewhat tacky I took a Ryobi Moto-tool and using a circular steel buffing burr set at low speed I tore into the glue and in some places pulled up a little bit of the styrene. Once it was quite dry I sanded it down. I was pleased with the improved rolled steel texturing.

Then I set about improving the weld seams. This was done by laying down thin strips of masking tape and with a toothpick smearing on thin lines of Tamiya "Putty". The type that comes in the orange cap. This was then scribed with the backside of an exacto knife and the tape pulled up.

Next I built the running gear and roadwheels. The Dragon offerings are nice enough indeed. I intended to make this Panther part of a small based diorama depicting the last Panther in Pomerania in the closing weeks of the war and would have survived a right good thrashing in combat. Using various drill bit sizes I drilled out holes in the roadwheels simulating small caliber shell hits and shrapnel damage. This was also done to the turret and hull. Some holes were enlarged with an exacto but only one was designed as a penetrating shot, and that is the hole entering the starboard radiator cell causing the fire damage on the engine decking. I also wanted to show damage to the rubber road wheels. This was done with the mototool and cleaned up with an exacto and needle files.

Once this was done I went to work on the rear hull plate. I wanted to model excessive combat damage here so I scratchbuilt one of the rear stowage bins from TechStar "Lead Foil" (#TC 3011) by making a template of the Dragon part and then cutting it out using medical scissors. The criss-cross detail on the bin face plate was achieved by simply pressing the lead part over the original and rubbing around the periphery with a toothpick. Scratches in the foil were buffed out. Battle damage was created with a small drill bit and an exacto. Dents were recreated by pushing in the very soft foil with a pencil. The fasteners for the lid are by Royal Model "Buckles" (#085) and for what my opinion is worth are much better in both size and ease of construction to the Aber offering. The other stowage bin was to have been torn off so the hangers underneath were constructed using thin strips of lead foil. Panther in Detail and Achtung Panzer were consulted for details on the rear plate and I added various chains to the engine access plates.

The two fire trap mufflers were pilfered from the Tamiya kit as they were a bit crisper. I added battle damage and then rusted up the bottom with a mixture of baking soda, white glue and water. The jack and its mount are Aber PE. The basic form of the jack came from the Tamiya "Panzerkampfwagen IV On-Vehicle Equipment Set" (#TAM35185).

Now as I had some thirty odd shell hits on the hull and turret I had to match the damage to the tools and Aber PE tool brackets. I left off all but one spare Dragon track link, rilling out the guide horns. The Aber retaining pins in the Aber sets were not used anywhere on the model. These were supplemented with brass wire suitably shaped. The spade which ay right over a hit on the port side hull was replaced with the Tamiya part and then split on the wood handle where the shell hit. In reality the spade would probably be blown clear away, but I wished to leave some of the tools on for variety, so I settled for drilling small shrapnel holes in the spade face. The barrel cleaning tube and spare aerial stowage was replaced using the Tamiya part. To this I shaved off the L angle steel bar, replacing it with the Aber PE and simulated battle damage and excessive rusting as this was just thin sheet metal. Similarly the Dragon towing cable was scrapped for one made of Tamiya eyes from the Panther G kit and cables of twisted brass wire.

The front hull plate was detailed by adding the Aber bow machine gun plug and chain often overlooked. I also replaced the surviving towing clevis with a Tamiya part and hung it on the front towing hook. As much as possible I replaced the Dragon tools with Tamiya Pzkfw. IV On Vehicle Equipment as they look a bit crisper and fit the Aber PE it was designed to hold. I bent some of the tool hangers on the front Starboard side where glancing shots tore them up. I should mention here that I found the photo-etch much easier to manipulate when it was first scored with a cigarette lighter. I replaced all the hatches and travel clamp with the Tamiya parts as again they were a bit crisper. I drilled out the solid closing handles and added the Aber hatch counterweight assembly arms. After an hour in hell winding brass wire around a pin to make the springs I celebrated life with a cigarette to calm my nerves and then moved onto the rear engine decking.

Here I replaced the raised engine fan with the Tamiya part as it had neat serial numbers inscribed in it. Next I fitted all of the Aber engine mesh, which is the best I've ever come across. It was pricked with an exacto here and there to simulate shrapnel damage. The weaved look is very convincing. I only touched these with Zap-A-Gap, CA glue as I wished to remove them for painting the air inlet housings without fear of gumming up the mesh.

Next came the turret. I used the cupola from the Panther G as it had a nicer pitting and it accepted the Aber interior parts better. I added periscopes from the Royal Model "Interior Details Set No. 2" (#098). The escape hatch was also pinched from Tamiya as the Dragon part does not provide for the interior swing out mounting which I then detailed with Aber parts. The Dragon barrel is very nice. The trick to losing the seam is to put on ample glue and squish the barrel halves together. When dry the excess glue is filled away erasing the seam. However, I constructed it before I inserted the Aber rifling so I had to use the Tamiya barrel. With this I correctly inserted the riffling into the muzzle brake. I also added a hollowed out piece of stretched sprue into the mantlet machine gun position as Dragon does not include one. I had seen a photo of a Panther with the remains of a Russian shell burrowed into the mantlet and decided to include this in my banged up beasty. This was done by shaving off a tiny piece of plastic from a scrap of stretched sprue and curled it around a needle nosed file. Once I was happy with the shape I cut it down and stuffed it into a pre-drilled shell hole in the mantlet to right of the 7.5cm main gun. The welded camouflage rings, five to a turret side, were made of brass wire. Using a fine drill bit I drilled out holes in the side of the turret and slipped long thin brass wire through the holes. Lopping the wire to form the hangers I Zap-A-Gapped, CA glued the wire on the inside of the turret to secure them and once dry trimmed away the excess.

Next I constructed the kit link to link caterpillars. Very nice and easy. No problems here. After they were glued in place I went to work on the Aber fenders. I had already removed the thick Dragon fender mounts and found the Aber PE fit well. I banged up the fenders by cutting them with sharp scissors and bending them back with tweezers. I drilled several holes to simulate small arms hits and cut away a portion of the left fender to expose the PE frames underneath. I replaced the Dragon Bosch lamp with a resin part by Royal Model "Headlights-Tail Lights 1/35" (#077), adding blown open wiring with scale rubber hosing from the Academy "German Tank Supplies & Crew Set" inserting brass wire into the rubber hose to simulate loose wiring.

Finally I went to work on the Aber side skirts using the supports, retainers and pins included. I wished to simulate multiple shell hits on the ones which remained so this was done with a nail and a small hammer. Where there was to be penetration hits I went back to the mototool and using a small drill bit gradually drilled through the brass.

The principle construction of the Panther was now complete.

IR Solutions

Nachtsichtgeraten or Infrared night-vision devices is another subject which easily could occupy a lengthy monograph. For the purposes of this article I will again attempt brevity. Germany began research on IR gear in the 30's of which there were two designations: Infrarotstrahlung or IR and Ultrarotstrahlung or UR, the obsolete name for IR. AG and Zeiss (or is it AEG and Leitz, it depends on who translated the text?) were the most senior developers of this equipment and in early 1942 the ZG 1221 solution was tested on a Pak 40 AT gun. With the ever-increasing air superiority of the Allies making daytime travel nearly impossible for panzer units, a great emphasis was placed on the speeding up of the development of the infra-red devices to be used by the Panzertruppe. General Guderian suggested an IR gun sight created for the 75mm Pak ought to be further developed for the Panther as well. A variation of the ZG1221 known as the ZG1221k was fitted to the commander's cupola of Panther turrets by way of a mount installed in the commander's hatchway. The headlamp gave the commander the ability to see ahead of the vehicle approximately 100 meters. By most accounts the range was inadequate and led to the development of an IR observation vehicle known as the "Uhu". Based on a Sd.Kfz.251/20 a 60cm searchlight was mounted in the fighting compartment. During operations one observation vehicle was assigned to a Panther unit comprising five tanks. The visibility range of the infra-red viewer mounted on the Panther was increased to 700 meters through the capability of the Uhu searchlight.

It should be added that by no means were these the only night-vision solutions being developed. In fact, the most common IR set seen in kit form, such as included in Tamiya's Panther G is a Bildwandler type FG1250 sighting device or Solution A. The FG1250 connected a metal band to the internal gun elevation indicator via an opening in the turret roof just in front of the commander's cupola.

Minor alterations were made to the Panther G to accommodate this solution. A battery stand and electric generator were mounted in the right rear of the crew compartment by removing the three round ammunition bin stowed there. Also, the right rear external stowage bin was replaced with an armored bin for the FG1250 auxiliary equipment.

The disadvantage of Solution A was that it offered only night-vision ability to the commander. A three unit UR-gear set was retained for the Ausf. G as well. Known as Solution B, this is the device seen on the Shanghai Dragon Panther G kit. The commander's IR equipment was improved by mounting the set up seen on the Sd.Kfz. 251/21 "Falke". This mounted a complete IR solution containing the 30cm IR searchlight, Image converter and an MG 42 or MG 34. Although the triple Bildwandler looks complicated, according to Waldemar Trojca's Panther, volume 2: "The detachment of he UR-set was very simple and quick: undoing two thumbscrews and disconnecting two cables took no more than a minute."

MNH were ordered to convert 50 Panthers in September, 70 in October, 80 in November and 100 in December of 1944. In November, MNH received orders to not convert any more Panthers. However, a month later, they received new orders requesting 30 more IR equipped Panthers.

Did they see action remains a constant source of controversy. In Culver & Feist's excellent reference Panther in Detail on page 138 is the following text: "In early 1945, one Panther (Ausf. A) fitted with 'Uhu' and 'Biwa' was ordered to the front at Stuhlweissenburg in Hungary. It was accompanied most probably by a Sd.Kfz. 251 fitted with 60cm 'Uhu' IR searchlight and a Sd.Kfz. 251 'Falke' support vehicle. It is reported that the 'Uhu'/'Biwa' combination worked successfully." Thomas Jentz in his epic discourse given on the Panther at Armor Modeling and Preservation Society's (AMPS) first national convention mentioned he was at work on another book on the Panther, including new details on IR gear and its use on the Eastern Front.

AEG, RPF and Letiz also produced a Zielgeraet or active night-vision device for the Sturmgewehr 44 assault rifle. The ZG 1229 Vampir weighed in at 2.25 kilograms (about 5 lbs.) and was fitted with lugs on the StG 44 at C.G. Haenel at Suhl, the weapons production facility. The grenadier carrying this monster was known as a Nachtjager and carrying this rifle must have been no joy. As well as the sight and spotlight, there was a 13.5 kilogram (about 30 lbs.) wooden cased battery for the Scheinwerfer, and a second battery fitted inside a gas mask container to power the Bildwandler. This was all strapped to a Traggestell 39 (pack frame 39). In Waldemar Trojca's Panther, volume 2, Vampir gear was: "First used in combat in February 1945". However, he later goes on to say: "Small arms infrared device introduction must have taken place in early 1944. Both my late grandfather, Gerhard Sarnes, and one of the ex-soldiers that I interviewed, did recall Eastern Front snipers shooting at night with the aid of 'peculiar non-shinning torches coupled with enormous optical sights' mounted on their rifles. Similar infrared gear was fitted both to MG34 and MG42 machine guns." So there remains a good deal of mystery surrounding these late-war weapons.

With this plethora of information I began the constructing of the three Solution B "Bildwandler" IR sets. The gear included in the Dragon Panther G kit are mounted in three positions as opposed to the Tamiya "Sperberber", Solution A gear which was mounted only at the commander's position and was without a MG-42 machine gun.

I began by adding some details to the driver and gunners scopes in the form of Royal Model "Buckles" (#085) and Aber "Wingnuts" (#35 A26). I also added Evergreen "Strip Styrene .020x.156" (#127) to beef up the IR mounts and tossed in a few Grandt Line Ho Scale "3 inch Nuts and Flat Steel Washers". The commander's position I had to rethink. The Dragon set up had the mounting of the commander's IR inside the cupola leaving almost no room for the commander. It didn't seem logical. The Cromwell "Vampire" version, seen built up in the book "Panther Fibel" shows the commander's IR solution mounted on the AA machine gun ring. Works for me. I did a bit of scratchbuilding Using the Aber machine gun mount, a bit of brass wire, Evergreen strip, Aber wingnuts and Royal model fasteners-viola! End of the construction.

*Since the completion of this project I purchased Waldemar Trojca's Panther, volumes 1 and 2, which uncovered new details regarding IR equipment previously unknown. This both clarified and muddied the issue and showed several inaccuracies in my construction.

Painting and WeatheringThus far fifty hours had been invested into construction. I read that Mr. James Blackwell spends 30% of his time in construction and 70% in painting and finishing. I was in trouble. Before I applied the base coat, I removed the IR sets and mesh engine deck grills to paint separately. I also removed the Aber side skirts allowing me access the roadwheels and caterpillars without interference.

I saw an interesting rendition of the ambush scheme on a Panther G in Military Miniatures in Review No. 11-12 Spring 1997. The model had been built and painted by Masahiro Doi who many know from amongst others, Armour Modeling Magazine. His Panther lacked any ambush scheme on the hull deck and turret lid. I thought I would like to do something similar allowing the use the "pre-shading" method.

I skipped the priming process and using a Badger 150 airbrush sprayed on several coats of 30% Humbrol "Flat Black" #33 to 70% thinner to begin the "pre-shading" process. This would also double as the primer coat. I prefer Best Kleen "No Odor Thinner" as it does not ponk and dries quite quickly. The first few coats are nearly invisible, but after they dry it goes on quickly and very thin. As I opted to pass on any interior detail I also painted the interior flat black. Any exposed interior details were painted Panzer buff and washed with an oil wash of 80% Raw Umber 20% black thinned to 20/80 with thinner . Once dry I drybrushed with the Buff to bring out some detail on the interior of the cupola. The periscopes were painted flat black and drybrushed with gray and Model Master "Steel".

With the minimal interior details completed I began the "pre-shading" process. I mixed Humbrol colours #153 (Red oxide) at 70% with #113 (Brown) 20%, and #33 (Flat Black) 10% and thinned it down 40/60. I blew it though my airbrush using 5 psi. into the centers of panels. The harsh lines were then misted by lowering the pressure to 2 psi to create a nice fade between the black "pre-shade" and the oxide primer. This same process was used on the roadwheels using a circular motion.

Once the oxide-primer was set, I added the Dunkelgelb and Dunkelgrun hard edge camouflage using a soft paint brush. Be sure to thin the pant adequately to avoid brush lines. I kept the ambush scheme to a minimum so as to reveal as much of the red primer coat as possible. The small "spots" were added with a spotter brush, Dunkelgelb over the Red Oxide and Dunkelgrun, Oxide Primer over the Dunkelgelb. Once this was completed on the hull, turret and side skirts, I went to work on the caterpillars. As they were already sprayed flat black, I simply airbrushed them with a very thin wash of Raw Umber and set them aside to dry. Once sufficiently dry I washed them with several coats of Rustall to give them an extremely worn out look. The results were pleasing.

Once the basic camouflage scheme was hardened I airbrushed it with Testors "Dullcoat Lacquer" (#1160) to seal and protect the paint from the subsequent oil washes. As I was modeling a Panther during the very closing days of the war I skipped adding decals. The basic wash consisted of a mix of 80% Raw Umber 20% black which was then thinned at a ratio of 20% oil paint to 80% thinner. This was airbrushed on at a psi of 20. A heavier wash was laid into the subassemblies and running gear. I found by laying the model carefully on its side and spraying into the roadwheels it settles in nice and even. With regard to the hull and turret I sprayed on several coats to almost obliterate the camouflage scheme. Before the oils had set I took a fine brush and washed in a direction gravity would cause staining to run. This broke up the wash and simulate extreme exposure to the elements and combat.

After the wash had set, I set about rusting the hull and turret. This was done with Liquitex acrylic "Burnt Sienna" mixed to a ratio of 40/60 with distilled water. Then with a fine brush and capillary action, I laid the paint into all the nooks and crannies and around raised details such as handles and the improved weld seams. Heavy rusting took several coats but was done sparingly as to not totally erase the flat black "pre-shading". I also laid in, using a thicker brush, a few coats of "rust" on the fire trap mufflers as these were nothing more than thin steel and tended to rust after exposure to continual heat. I also washed a few of the shell hits and bouncing blows with "rust" to differentiate between older and more recent hits. I also heavily rusted around the bolts in the roadwheels. When this was finished I took a fine brush and painted the rubber roadwheels flat black. The black I reserve for this is cheap nasty latex house paint from Orchard Hardware. It dries brilliantly flat, almost gray. It was then dry brushed with shades of gray.

Next I mixed some water based flat black and airbrushed the scorching caused by shell hits both large and small caliber on the hull, turret and side skirts. This mixture was quite thin and required several hits with the airbrush to achieve proper coverage. At the same time I blew some flat black on the 7.5cm muzzle brake to simulate cordite staining, the close defense machine guns in the bow and port and to simulate exhaust staining on the engine deck.

Touching the weld seams with khaki to bring out the detail came next. I did also do a bit of drybrushing with Testors "Steel" on the guide horns where they were in constant contact with the roadwheels and on the exterior tracks, but only on the cleats where they made heavy impact with the road surface. I drybrushed a bit of steel onto the edges of the hull and turret that were prone to excessive wear.

Finished with the drybrushing, I thinned the steel paint and with a fine pointed spotter brush reproduced scratches from combat, element wear and crew scuffing. This was laid in heavy at high contact points such as around the crew hatches and engine access hatch. To simulate the impact of shell hits and glancing blows I took an old frayed brush, dipped it into the steel, wiped the brush nearly clean and scrubbed it into the black scorching.

Painting the IR sets came next. These had been removed and to a certain extent deconstructed and mounted using cryno glue onto toothpicks for ease of painting and detailing. They were airbrushed using Humbrol Dunkelgelb (#93) and washed with a thin coat of Raw Umber oils. Once dry I used the capillary effect to bring out all of the details using water based Raw Umber. The focusing knobs and power couplings were painted flat black and drybrushed with gray and Testors "Steel". The red identification numbering was painted on upside down with Testors "Red" as per references in "Panther in Detail". The optics and lamps were painted with Raw Umber and the centres touched with purple as I am reliably informed the optics appeared this colour in sunlight. The power cables were made of TechStar "Styrene Rod .20" (#TC3014) and painted with water based Burnt Sienna and washed with flat black.

To achieve the glass periscopes and rear convoy light realistically I painted them first with Raw Umber and painted the centres with Humbrol #80 (Bright Green). To achieve the glassy effect I then mixed "Aristocrat" two part resin and laid it in with a fine brush on all the glass surfaces. Artists pastels were ground up in a variety of colours, mostly rust orange and dark brown and laid in with a fine brush to simulate running rust stains and with a wider brush for the burnt effect on the rear deck plate on a rear starboard hull side where a penetration shot caused the radiator to burn.

Lastly, I wanted to add some serious gunk. I mixed Hudson & Allen "Static Grass" (#9617) with coffee grounds, fine sand, a large amount of flower bed soil and Polly S Colors "Dark Earth Brown" (#500064), "Military Medium Brown" (#500065), and "Field Drab" (#500830) mixing it with water to create serious spring thaw quagmire. This was applied once some of the water was absorbed by the soil until it resembled porridge. This was then applied using a thin brush very heavily to the sub-assemblies, roadwheels and tracks, being sure not to completely cover the nice rusted effect. I also added splattered mud to the lower front hull plate, rear plate and hull sides. Some splashing was even added to the turret. The nice part about adding real Mother Earth is that when it dries it lightens, looking quite natural.

After completing the Panther I set it aside whilst I got started on the diorama lay out.

The DioramaI wished to create something in this setting that was not only of interest from all sides but also one having a significant change in its elevation from front to back. Dioramas which tend to catch my eye or those which aren't just a plank with some groundwork. I love to see something which is truly artistic utilizing both architecture and landscape. There are two separate camps when it comes to dioramas. One believes that a central theme is key and that too much action tends to cloud the artists idea of what is going on. The second prefers a "slice of life" with various activities which engage the viewer leaving them with plenty to take in. My own interpretation lays somewhere in between. I prefer to capture an instant in time with all its activity but also a central theme. I am not sure if I've accomplished it.

I began by cutting a section of plywood into a twelve inch by sixteen inch section to act as a base. I choose this size as it was just big enough to contain the scene I envisioned, and yet small enough, I hope, to carry on an aeroplane to competitions. Next I laid out the basic ground elevations using foam board. I have used foam board for years for just this purpose and I find it an excellent product. Designed primarily for architects, this board is made by pressing a layer of Styrofoam board between two layers of cardboard. This combination is both very strong and lightweight. It can be glued with white glue, but for quicker drying time whilst laying out the base structure I prefer to use "Household Goop" a type of resin adhesive. Once dry it forms a very strong join. The foam board was used exclusively for the basic structure, including hillside, roadway, riverbed, and the basis for the brick walls. The exception here, is the small brick sewer entrance at the base of the ravine. This is a commercially available HO scale railroad tunnel entrance. Made of plaster it is easily converted for use in 54mm. It was set into the base to await the application of celluclay.

Once a suitable layout was achieved I went to work on the section of brick wall and steps which lead from the mountain road to a small memorial. I built up the wall separately with foam board, including the steps leading from the road to the hillside memorial. The bricks were created from small sheets of Alexander the Great (S004) "Cobblestones". These are cardboard sheets with pressed cobblestone on one side. They were cut to size with an exacto and glued onto the foam board form using Elmers "White Glue". Once dry the flat foam board simulating concrete slab was given several coats of artists matte paste. When dry it was sanded smooth and the entire brick section glued into place. Once satisfied with the form I began the groundwork in earnest with the application of "Celluclay". Now a word, if I may, about this product. I have used it for years. And from time to time switched to other products such as Porion. However, I have always been most satisfied with celluclay and its abilities. I mix celluclay in a large glass bowl and then gradually add water to the mix. With celluclay it is better to mix it too dry than too wet. Celluclay added too wet will take weeks to dry, mould, and warp both the foam board and the wood base.

With the proper mixture I add thin layers of celluclay to the formed out landscape, creating the roadway, hillside, ravine and river bed. I also mixed the groundwork. There are numerous products available on the market which simulate mud. I found the most realistic is the real thing. I make two mixtures, one wet and one dry. The dry mix is garden variety dirt, well sifted, with some Naples, Florida sand, pre-strained coffee grounds, a little backing soda, and some sifted stones. This dry mix is sprinkled on the wet celluclay, thin on the hillside, heavy on the roadway. The remainder is mixed with water and white glue and placed in a small tin covered with tin foil to be used on the Panther, the figurines and for touch ups. After the groundwork is in place, I sprinkled on Hudson & Allen (9617) "Summer Turf".

Before the celluclay dried I pressed in the Panther tracks into the roadway and added several wheel ruts to simulate heavy traffic. I also impressed the feet of all the figurines so they would have a proper seat upon completion of their painting later on. The memorial, a resin cross from Verlinden Productions (722) "Roadside Shrines" was pressed into the wet celluclay and then removed for painting. The tree was fitted into an appropriate location and removed for finishing. As you might note it is a Bonsai tree, which is nothing more than a juniper bush trimmed down. It had an interesting shape, so I ripped it from its pot, snipped off the roots for other use and soaked it in bleach to kill it. The base of the tree was formed with celluclay and then etched with a palate knife to match the Bonsai trunk texture. What can I say, it works. The root was placed below the roadway and sticks out of the side of the ravine.

The entire diorama was now set aside for drying. 48 hours later it was dry enough to accept painting and drybrushing. The groundwork was airbrushed using water soluble colours. I mixed Raw Umber with Flat Black in a 75/25 mixture and then cut it with 60% water and blew it through an Iwata SP gun. This was applied until all the earthen areas were covered with an almost chocolate brown coating to represent dark wet earth. This was then misted here and there with the same mix with some khaki added to lighten the earth. Once this was all in place and dry, it was all drybrushed with khaki to bring out the details of the dirt road and landscape. The grass was airbrushed with a mixture of various greens and browns and drybrushed with some yellow. The tree was placed into its pre-made hole and glued in with "Household Goop" epoxy. The trunk was airbrushed "Pig Brown" and washed with burnt sienna and flat black. The leaves, in this case, were just right and let alone.

One I was satisfied with the organic portion of the groundwork, I moved on to the brick sections. My thoughts regarding early-spring in East Prussia, particularly an army on the verge of collapse brought visions of dread and darkness, therefore I chose to paint everything in dark earth tones and emulate a sense of doom and gloom. The bricks were certainly no exception. They were base coated with khaki drill, and then well washed with burnt sienna and flat black. This was then very lightly drybrushed with khaki mixed with 20% white. The Portland cement slabs were airbrushed with khaki, washed with a mixture of 80% raw umber 20% flat black and thinned with 80% "Windex Blue". This was then airbrushed again in a cloud pattern using gradually lightened variations on the khaki.

Details were set in at this point. The posts for the barbed wire were cut down from longer posts in the Tamiya (35027)"Barricade Set" , whilst the barbed wire itself is from the Verlinden Productions (VP3 051) p.e. set. The lamp set in the brick retaining wall is from an old ADV (no. 35609) Urban Accessories Set with frosted glass panes made of tissue paper which was washed with off yellow and burnt sienna. The panes were then coated with two part resin to simulate glass.

At this point only remained the spring run off in the ravine to deal with, but this would be set aside for now until the figurines were completed as I thought to place a poor Russian bugger in the depths. I painted that figurine first. Once completed it was positioned in the ravine with an assortment of typical possessions disregarded by a retreating army.

When all was laid in I poured in eight thin layers of EnviroTex Lite "Pour On". This is an excellent product which produces a crystal clear, high gloss finish which is about equal to 50 coats of varnish. It has multiple uses from laying in water to reproducing glass dials, headlamp lens' and spectacle lens'. It comes in two 32 fluid ounce bottles, one containing the resin, the other the hardener. There is only one draw pack to this product-the two parts must be mixed equally. Any deviation results in a sticky resin mess that will never, ever dry.

To achieve the clean sides of the stream I set up two glass panes on either edge of what would become the edges of the stream. The glass panes were fixed tight and the bottoms filled with five minute epoxy to prevent any leakage from the poured resin. Each layer was poured in thin. Do not make the mistake of pouring it all in at once. The resin requires contact with oxygen to dry. If it is too thick it will create nasty bubbles in the center which will not float up to the surface and break as it does when poured in thin even layers. Once I had poured in four layers I painted in flowing blood from the waxed Russian's head and chest wounds. This was redone with each consecutive layer until the blood had a nice depth to it.

Jumping ahead a bit here. Once all the figurines were complete I relocated their proper imprints in the dried celluclay and together with the Panther they were attached using small amounts of "Household Goop". After they had all set I went back with a tin of the pre-mixed mud with a touch more water I mentioned earlier and set it in around the boots and the tank caterpillars to represent the early-spring quagmire.

The base was cleaned up with sides of black foam board. Wet celluclay was added over the top "lip" of the board and merged with the dry celluclay with paint re-touching. Those areas representing more muddy than others were then brushed with a coat of Testors "Glosscote Lacquer" and for the less sodden area Model Master "Semi-Gloss Clear Lacquer Finish".

Finally, after all was completed, I sprinkled on Hudson&Allen "Snow" beads to recreate the early-thaw of East Prussia in February of 1945.

Figurines

The use of figurines is in my opinion important in displaying an AFV and essential for almost all diorama work. They add a sense of the organic to what is otherwise very ridged. The figurines in "The Last Panther in Pomerania" are really quite a mixed bag-ranging from resin Warrior's and Coree offerings to injection plastic Dragon and Tamiya figurines. The poor waxed Russian fellows are all from the Tamiya (No.207) " Russian Army Assault Infantry". All were heavily modified, obviously, the most obvious being the removal of the Tamiya heads and replacing them with Hornet. To achieve the appropriate positioning required some dipping into the parts box, lots of putty and a set of Verlinden Productions (No. 57) "WWII German Soldier's Gear" containing photo-etch belts and buckles.

The IR toting kampfgruppe is mostly Dragon figurines from a variety of their more recently released sets. A word here about Dragon figurines, if I may. They rock. They are the best thing in injection plastic, leaving Tamiya in the dust, and the newer releases rivaling even resin. Details are very crisp and clean, the weapons are the best in both plastic and resin, and although I replaced all with Hornet heads, the releases since the completion of this diorama, "Survivors, Panzer Crew" and "Grenadiers, Panzergrenadier Regiment 25, HJ Division" are so well done I would not even consider replacing the heads. Whew!

There are only two members of the Kampfgruppe who are resin, can you tell which? The grenadier in the fur cap, with wounded left arm is from Warriors, whilst the cowardly Obersturmfuhrer is from the same but with a different head.

The use of figurines is very central to the telling of the story here. The viewer has come on the scene moments after the action as several members of the IR toting kampfgruppe pick their way through the unit of Russians they have caught unprepared. Dead Russians litter the roadway. The line of escape is expressed by the two dead on the height above the road whilst a grenadier with a sniper's rifle sites up on another Russian who has slipped up the hillside and into the heavy wood. A last Russian has ended up in the riverbed after having fired his panzerfaust into the portside radiator cell causing a fire. These are all elements which lend themselves to the story as a whole.

The construction and painting of figurines is by far my favorite aspect of diorama building and I get a lot of satisfaction from the life they bring to the scene.

ConclusionI quite enjoyed this little project. It took a wee bit longer than I had anticipated. Overall I spent more then two years off and on from beginning to end, but I was well pleased with the results and I learned a lot of new techniques as I went along. It's hard to know when to say when with a diorama project. A lot of thought should go into layout and the figurines you wish to use before you build. Yes, there will always be some changes as new ideas come to you, but drastic additions and subtractions tend to make for a never-ending project. In the end, if it gives you pleasure than that is quite enough.

Gallery

Items UsedShanghai-Dragon "Pz. Kpfw. V. Ausf G "Night Fighting" Panther (#9045)

Tamiya "Panther G Late Version" (#35176)

Tamiya "Panzerkampfwagen IV On-Vehicle Equipment Set" (#TAM35185)

Alexander the Great "Cobbelstone Sections" (S004)

Aber "Panther Ausf. G (Sd.Kfz.171) General Details and Upgrade Set (#35 024)" "Front Fenders and Side Supports for Panther Ausf. G/F and Jagdpanther (35 A24)" "Side Skirts for Panther Ausf. G/F and Jagdpanther (#35 A28) "Wingnuts" (#35 A26)

Academy "German Tank Supplies & Crew Set" (MC 1376)

TechStar "Lead Foil" (#TC 3011) "Styrene Rod .20" (#TC3014)

Royal Model "Buckles" (#085) "Interior Details Set No. 2" (#098) "Headlights-Tail Lights 1/35" (#077) Evergreen "Strip Styrene .020x.156" (#127)

Grandt Line Ho Scale "3 inch Nuts and Flat Steel Washers"

RustallHudson & Allen "Static Grass" (#9617)

Dragon "Armoured Reconnaissance, Viking Division (Hungary 1945)" (#6131)

Dragon "German Gebirgsjager (Caucasus 1942)" (#6045)

Dragon "German Grenadiers (East Prussia 1945)" (#6057)

Dragon "Totenkopf Division (Budapest 1945)"(6095)

Dragon "Volkssturm (Berlin 1945)" (#6020)

Tamiya "Russian Army Assault Infantry" (#35207)

References

"Achtung Panzer" "Armor Battles of the Waffen SS Willi Fey. J.J. Fedorwicz Publishing 1996

"Armour Modeling" Hiromu Araki Dai Nippon Kaiga 1994 1943-45" Vol.6. 1997

"Model Aesthetics" Model Art 1997

"Panther" Anderson &Wai Concorde Publications 1996

"Panther & Its Variants" Walter J. Spielberger. Schiffer Publishing 1993

"Panther in Detail" Culver& Feist. Ryton

"Armor in Detail no.2.Panther Ausf. A" Francois Verlinden. Verlinden Productions Publications 1998

"Military Modeling Manual " Tadahiro Sato. Hobby JapanSpecial Issue 1995

"Panther Model Fibel" Model Art, No.488

"Panzers in Normandy Then And Now" Eric Lefevre. After The Battle 1996

"The Verlinden Way Volume V" Francois Verlinden Verlinden Publications 1985

"WWII German Military Uniforms" Vol. 1. The Show Modelling (058) in Colour Photographs

"Waffen-SS Uniforms Andrew Steven & Peter AmodioEuropa Militaria No. 6Windrow & Greene. 1990

"Uniforms of the SS 1938-1945" Yoshihiro Terui & BSK Dai Nippon-Kaiga 1998

"Camouflage Uniforms of the Waffen-SS" Warmachines No. 16 Nick Adams Verlinden Productions. 1994

"Panzer Aces" Franz Kurowski JJ Fedorowicz. 1992

" German Infantry in WWII"Michael D. Beaver & JF BorsarelloSchiffer. 1995

"Military Miniatures in Review" Vol. 2 Number 2. 1995 Ampersand Publishing

"Panther" Vol. 1 Waldemar Trojca AJ Press. 1999

"Panther" Vol. 2 Waldemar Trojca AJ Press. 1999

About the AuthorI began modeling in the UK in 1976 when I was eleven years old, building those excellent Airfix figurines and not so flash early Tamiya kits. Although, one of my very first kits was the "German Secret Strongpoint" a 1.72nd scale bunker complex. When my family moved to the United States I lost interest in the hobby for quite a few years.

During a summer back in London in 1993 I dashed into a newsagent, avoiding a bashing down rainstorm and came across an issue of Verlinden Productions Modeling Magazine (Vol. 4. Number 2). Inside was the huge diorama "Legacies II" by Bob Letterman. I was hooked. My early attempts to emulate this work were a dismal failure. However following the tips of such greats as Francois Verlinden, Young Jin Won, Lynn Kessler, Lewis Pruneau, Masahiro Doi and James Blackwell my technique improved. Fortunately, living in Los Angeles there are at least four very good hobby shops including Legends Toys and Hobbies which is, in my humble opinion, the closest thing to heaven, and I was able to easily find a great selection of kits and aftermarket sets.

I began "the Last Panther in Pomerania" in November of 1997, beginning with the construction of the Panther Ausf.G. The diorama was begun in April of 1998 and completed in April of 2000. Okay, so I work slow!

As a documentary filmmaker I travel quite a bit and for a few years my modeling time was quite restricted. Other interests include rock climbing in Yosemite, a game of golf, riding my vintage BMW hack (a sidecar to the rest), scuba diving, and playing around at the beach.

Photography

Two formats were used to photograph the diorama. 35mm Images were taken with a Minolta XD 11 mounting a Tamron 28-70mm lens with macro and f32. All Images were shot in the shade using a 1 shutter setting. The others were photographed using a 16mm digital still camera that is part of a JVC 16mm digital camcorder. This is very easy to use, just zoom and click. It's all plug and play right into the computer CPU. The digital's only draw back is that it only shots in one size and that is a three by five Image.

A Visioneer Paperport 3100 scanner was used in conjunction with Photoshop software to sweeten the Images. Photoshop is indispensable as it can actually sharpen Images, resize and compress them. Both an IBM PC and Macintosh G4 were used in the preparation of this article.PAGE 42