Technology Trade Show

TECH BYTESDo you face the problem of plies getting fused together while cutting 100% polyester or other fabric with thermoplastic fibre content? Do you feel that more force is needed to cut lays while cutting denim or any other fabric with very high EPI/PPI? Does your straight knife blade heat up while using with fabrics of high GSM?How do you solve such problems? Have you ever used wavy blade in straight knife? Are you aware that use of wavy blade in your straight knife may solve these problems?

Yes, definitely we face such kinds of problems while cutting the 100 per cent polyester or similar kind of fabric. The remedy we have taken to counter the problem is we normally use old blades which have been used in other styles so that the frequent blade grinding is not required to heat the blades. While cutting high GSM fabric, we have to use more force than average or low GSM fabric. To counter this, we plan the height of the lay according to fabric’s GSM and also take care that new blades are used in our straight knife to ensure that there is least possible fraying. As for wavy blades, we have neither used them in our straight knife cutting machine nor tried them as a solution to counter such problems.VIKAS KUMAR,Senior Manager – Cutting and Planning, Shahi Exports, Faridabad, Haryana, India

We do face problems of plies getting fused together as we work quite a lot with 100 per cent polyester fabrics. To solve this problem, we use special blades in our straight knife cuttingmachine. Our Eastman cutting machine is compatible with blades of different brands, of which there are 10-12 variations of blades available in the market, in terms of height. To reduce such fusing of edges, we use a blade with grooves on the cutting edge.This makes it easier to cut the plies as it can be manoeuvred without difficulty in the 2-inch lay height that we maintain in our spreading system. Since we do not work with high GSM fabrics, we do not face the problems of needing to apply force while cutting with straight knife.

DEEPAK VAZE,Plant Head, Tex Trade India, Surat, India

While cutting 100 per cent polyester fabrics, we make sure that we spread less plies to ensure there is no fusing between plies. We lay plies till 1-inch height and use an 8-inch blade in our Eastman straight knife cutting machine. Since we do not cut fabrics with high GSM or denim, we do not face the problem of applying high-level force while cutting.

PUSHPENDRA MISHRA,Production Head, VAM Hi-Fashion Garments, Gurgaon, India

I am really surprised at the level of technology awareness of the garment manufacturers in India. Use of wavy blade in straight

knife cutting machine is a simple technology upgrade, which are commonly used for decades by garment manufacturers across the world for cutting special fabrics. Use of wavy blade reduces friction generated, resulting in less heatgeneration, thus no fusion of layers happens while cutting 100 per cent polyester, nylon and other thermoplastic fibres. Wavy blade is also used for cutting denser fabrics like denim, which results in faster cutting due to chopping cutting mechanism.

Technology is sold like commodities these days, and price and commission have become more important. Only a few had heard of something called wavy blade (but never seen), and those who have heard or seen ‘wavy blade’, never bothered to explore the technology. Some of the mechanics categorically mentioned that earlier this wavy blade was used, but nowadays the use is very limited.

While I am yet to hear any possible disadvantages of using‘wavy’ blade, this only indicates our technicians lack of knowledge about appropriate machinery and technology to use.

DR. PRABIR JANA,NIFT – Delhi, India

Which department is responsible for recruitment and training of sewing operators? How do you select fresh recruits for sewing job? Do you conduct any test (like peg board test, ball & tube test, etc.)? Please name those tests.Do you conduct any sewing test also? What do you give/ask them to sew?After recruitment, how do you train them to make them production ready? How long is the training period?What all do you teach in the training period? Are there any provisions of re-training of sewing operators (to acquire new skill) who are already in production?Write your comments to us by 20th November 2016 at: editor@stitchworld.net or post your views online through our website: www.apparelresources.com

TechByteStitchWorld DECEMBER 2016 Question

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India: KG Exports to invest US $ 9 million in new unit

Bangladesh: Renaissance Group continuously evolving to remain competitive

the company we started in 2006 with the turnover of Rs. 1 crore, is now doingbusiness worth US $ 6 million (Rs. 40 crore).”

Dua, who is also the President of the newly formed Knitwear and Apparel Exporters Organization, further informed that exporters of Ludhiana are trying to stay united. Additionally, he is expecting 200 members to join the association in next one year.“We will increase our involvement in AEPC so that exports can also grow from here. We are also expecting few subsidies/incentiveslike freight subsidy from the new Government that will come into the power post state elections. So exports will definitely grow from Ludhiana, may be 10 times from the existing Rs. 1,000 crore per year. We have asked the State Government for 4,000 acre of land to work

floors of 1,20,000 sq. feet each; moreover, Lean is expected to be introduced at the facility. This facility isexpected to be operational by the mid of 2017, accounting for US $ 40 million turnover. Furthermore, the company also has plans under way for the second green unit to be operational by next year.

In another development, Fast React, a production planning software, is nowintegrated into their planning and production to boost efficiency, productivity, and also save time.

udhiana (India)-based KGL Exports, which exportstees to France (only), is coming up with a new factory by making an investment of US $ 9 million (Rs. 60 crore). This new unit will be built on a land spread across 4 acres and the production is likely to start next year. Currently, the company has the capacity of manufacturing 3,000 pieces daily and the target is raising it to 10,000 pieces per day. It will also explore new markets and will work with new buyers too.

“We will try to make it a green facility as Ludhiana is lagging behind on this front. From last three years we have been upgrading our unitand have invested Rs. 5 crore in machinery for knitting, stitching and value addition,” informed Harish Dua, MD of the company to StitchWorld. He further added,“It was our professional approach that

enaissance Group (RG),Ra vertically-integratedUS $ 200 million apparel manufacturing enterprise in Bangladesh, is majorly producing sweaters and shirts under 6 differentgroup companies employing 22,000 workers.

The Group is in the process of setting up two green facilities for cut and sew knits, shirts and blouses as part of its expansion plan. One ofthe green factories, named Renaissance Barind Ltd. will have 36 production lines in three different production

in this direction and the Government has also given its approval on this,” he says.

Furthermore, Dua averred, “We will meet more and more apparel buyers and will invite them in Ludhiana. We will also approach more and more apparel buying houses which are not very interested as of now in Ludhiana,”he concluded.

Additionally, the company is also moving into the direction of value addition to existing products and product diversification. “We are doing higherSMV products, more prints and embroideries and sublimation printing. We have also made investment on 800 Stoll and SHIMA SEIKI jacquard machines for sweaters. All these initiatives are taking us forward, preparing for the future,” informs Md.Shahriar Alam, Chairman, Renaissance Group.

Harish Dua, MD, KG Exports

India: Indo Transworld Exports upgrades infrastructure; adds capacity

ffering products forO ladies and kidswear, Indo Transworld Exports,Delhi recently upgraded its infrastructure and added capacity too.Gurpreet Singh Kohli, Director of the company said,“We have added some machines and new attachments inour stitching section, and upgraded our infrastructure also by adding machines forembroidery, pintucks and other value additions.Now we have more inputs to offer our buyers. All these efforts made us competitive and now we are better placed, be it product, costing or delivery schedule compared to earlier times.”

The company, mainly working with Europe and US, now has 200 stitching machines and is expecting to double business with all these initiatives. Sabrina Kohli, heading product development of the company, shared that recently they have developed collectionsin chambray, cotton and viscose blends, a lot of developments have also been made in prints and woven jacquard.

Bangladesh: Bangladesh formulating new Labour Inspection Strategy

India: India to provide fixed-term employment in apparel manufacturing sector

years,” said State Minister for Labour and Employment Mujibul Haque Chunnu said that the strategy will help set the direction for the next five years.

Adding to that, Secretary to the Ministry of Labour and Employment Mikail Shipar said, “While much importance has been placed on the RMG sector we must also seek to systematically widen thelabour inspection process to other key industries as well as those operating in the domestic market.”

The primary purpose of the labour inspection is said to be to improve Bangladesh’s current inspection system and the performance of its enforcement responsibilities consistent with internationallabour standards and national legislation, which will also focus on strategic priority

the Ministry of Labour and Employment intends to include workman on fixed- term employment eligible for all statutory benefits available to permanent workman proportionately accordingly to the period of service rendered by him, even though his period ofemployment does not extend to the qualifying period of employment required in the statute, a notification issued by the Ministry.

The seasonal nature of apparel manufacturing sector results in fluctuation of demand and hence

n an important stepItowards developing acredible and effective labour inspection system for Bangladesh, around 50 participants representing the Government ministries and regulatory agencies, employers’ organisations, trade unions, brandsand retailers, NGOs and development partners recently took part in a consultation to discuss and deliberate on the draftLabour Inspection Strategy for Bangladesh is the first ever in the country which is undergoing consultation before getting the final nod. This was stated in a press communique issued by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) recently.

“The Department of Inspections for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) has undergone considerable improvement in recent

he Indian GovernmentThas introduced ‘fixed-term employment’ in the apparel manufacturing sector under Industrial Employment (Standing Order) Act, 1946. This move will facilitate employment of workers in apparel manufacturing on a fixed- term basis and ensure same working conditions, wages and other benefits for fixed- term employee in the sector as a regular employee.

With the inclusion of ‘fixed- term workman’ as one of the categories in the classification of workmen under the Act,

requires flexibility in employing worker, states the notification issued by the Ministry. By permitting fixed-term employmentin apparel manufacturing, the working conditions in terms of working hours, wages, allowances and other statutory dues of a fixed-term employee would be at par with permanent workmen.

Further, the employer can directly hire a worker for a fixed-term withoutmediation of any contractor. Likewise, any worker employed for short period will get better working

and service conditions as compared to a contract worker. The decisionis expected to provide flexibility to textile sector in employing workers and hence strengthen and empower the Indian textile and apparel sector.

It is a win-win situation for both workers and employers as it provides flexibilityfor employing workers as per the demands of the market, while ensuring that workers hired getsequal benefits and working condition at par with the permanent employees.

The primary purpose of the Labour Inspection Strategy is to improve Bangladesh’s current inspection system

areas and key measures to be undertaken over the next five years.

In addition, it will help guide employers, worker organisations, buyers and foreign investors to better understand the labour inspection environment. During the consultation the need for the strategy to go beyond key export-orientedsectors was also emphasised.

Labour Inspection Strategy for Bangladesh is the first ever in thecountry which is undergoing consultation before getting the final nod.

Bangladesh: RMG exports to UK, US down in Q1 FY ’16-17

in the same period of FY ‘16 while RMG export to the US market in the July-September period of FY ‘17 fell by 12.04 per cent to US $ 1.26 billion compared to US $ 1.43 billion in the same period of FY ‘16.

The scenario is almost similar as far as UK is concerned. Total export to the UK, the third largest destination, declined by 2.47 per cent to US $ 843.78 million in the first quarter of FY‘17 from US $ 867.60 million in the same period of FY ‘16, while RMG export to the UK in the first quarter of FY ‘17 decreased by 2.23 per cent to US $ 780.52 million from US$ 798.37 million in the same period of FY16.

According to Additional Research Director of Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), Khondaker Golam Moazzem, Brexit could have been one of the reasons for the negative export growth in the UK (even though the influenceof the issue was yet to be considered ‘that strong’)

fter maintaining a healthyAexport trend to its twotop export destinations-the United States and the United Kingdom in the last financial year, Bangladesh’s exportsto these two countries witnessed a decline in the first quarter of the current financial year (2016-17) due to what many consider a downward trend in the demand for RMG items in these markets.

According to experts and garment exporters, shipment suspension during long holidays for Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Azha coupled witha slump in demand for RMG products in US and UK markets resulted in the negative growth, reported a daily newspaper of Bangladesh recently.

As per Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, the total export in the July-September period of FY ‘17 from US fell by 10 per cent to US $ 1.40 billion from US $ 1.55 billion

while as per former President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Anwar- ul-Alam Chowdhury Parvez, export earnings in US and UK markets witnessed negative growth in the first quarter of this fiscal year as it was the transitional period of the export season.

“There were ups and downs in the US economy and a slow growth in the overall demand was prevailing in the

India: Indian apparel manufacturer Orient Craft to set up factory in Jharkhand

involvement of Orient Craft in setting up the unit will aid the State Government inacknowledging the potential of textile industry that has the capacity to generate employment, lack of whichis forcing a major part of the state’s populace to migrate.

The company will also assist in training the youth of the state with greater focus on the districts, as migration majorly takes place here only, and will later deploy themin the factory. The move is expected to garner greater

ndian apparel manufacturerIand exporter Orient Craft,which has the capacity to produce 2 lakh units every day, is reportedly considering a textile factory in Jharkhand. The company would also assist in constructing Textile Park in the state.

The construction of the factory is expected to begin from March next year. The decision to set up the textile unit was taken in the backdrop of increasing migration ratio of the state. The

enthusiasm amongst the youth of the state towards apparel and textile sector.

Orient Craft will hold the first phase of training in Gumla, Dumka, Khunti and

Simdega, stated a release from the State Government. It added that the company already has a training centre at Lohardaga and imparts a three-monthly course.

Suspension of shipments during long holidays for Eid-ul-Fitr in the month of July and for Eid-ul-Azha in the month of September resulted in negative export growth in some big markets

The construction of the factory is expected to begin from March next year

market,” stated Khondaker, while Anwar-ul-Alam on his part maintained,“There is no reason to be panicked as the earnings would rebound after the start of the new season in October.” Alam further added suspensionof shipments during long holidays for Eid-ul-Fitr in the month of July and for Eid-ul-Azha in the month of September resulted in negative export growth in some big markets.

India: Government announces enhanced support under MEIS to boost export

Code-43040019) the rate is 3%. For garments of silk and other such products,the rate is 2%. Additionally, for articles of apparel and clothing accessories made from wild animals covered under Wild Life Protection Act, the rate is 3%. For

s the exporters of theA country are strugglingto grow, the Government of India has announced enhanced support under Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) of the Foreign Trade Policy. Department of Commerce has extended the support to certain new products and enhanced the rate of incentives for some other specified products under the scheme. The same hasbeen implemented from 22 September.

Rate for products added to the MEIS schedule withimmediate effect is between 2% and 5%. For most of the products it is 2%, like for plastic stickers for garments of polyurethane foam; for other articles of artificialfur, garments/made ups/ knitwear, etc. (as per ITC (HS)

Bangladesh: MK Sweaters to add capacity to address labour problem

payment, thus complicating the situation for the company, which follows all compliance norms. The company intends to address the labour problem by installing around 40 SHIMA SEIKI machines over the next few years.These automatic jacquard machines are operated by skilled workers, who generally abstain from working with the job workers, henceletting the production run smoothly under one roof. In the meanwhile, the factory is committed to take proper initiative towards worker welfare complying with the norms of BSCI, ILO, BUET and the likes.

K Sweaters, aMBangladesh-basedexport house set up in 2003 by Md. Salim Rana, Chairman and Russell Rana, Executive Director of the company, has created unique blends of spandex, acrylic and nylon fabric blend to differentiate the products. The company has 1,100 hand flat knitting machines with a monthly capacity of 50,000 to 60,000 finished products/sweaters at two factories, MK Sweaters and Fashions Designs.

Currently, one of the biggest issues affecting growth at MK Sweaters is labour, as they prefer to work withjob workers due to daily

The total support extended by Government of India under MEIS has been enhanced to Rs. 23,500 crores per annum

Russell Rana, Executive Director, MK Sweaters

silk carpets, etc. the rate is maximum i.e. 5%.

Introduced in April 2015, under this scheme exporters get duty-free scrip to import input goods, which go into the production of export items. With this, the total number of items covered

The company has recently added high-end knitted jackets in varied designs and fabric blends to their product profile and is looking to buy another piece of property to pursue their currentplan for expansion, as they are very positive ofdeveloping knitted jackets as an important category of the growth strategy. “Based on the response we have received, I think jackets will do very well in the future. We just started this year and learnt alot, so we are hoping for better things next year,” underlines Russell.

under the scheme has been increased from 5,012 to 7,103. The total support extended by Government of India under the scheme has been enhanced from the present Rs. 22,000 crore to Rs. 23,500 crore per annum.

Rate for products added to the MEIS schedule with immediate effect is between 2%and 5%.

USA: Garment workers reporting labour issues via mobiles

increases transparency and accountability of the supply chain by getting around many of the limitations of traditional audits.”

The idea behind this technology is to warn big brands of problems at the furthest ends of theirsupply chains about labour exploitation and modern slavery. LaborVoices is also tracking abuse of Syrian migrant workers in Turkey’s garment industry, seeking evidence of forced labour and trafficking, whereas Laborlink has reached more

arment workers fromGBangladesh to Turkeyare using IVR (Interactive Voice Response) services on their cell phones to report labour issues… Two US-based mobile services companies– Laborlink and LaborVoices are providing this facility to workers to make a call on toll- free numbers to anonymously report violations takingplace around them. Workers just have to answer simple questions along the lines of being treated fairly, timely payment of wages, blockage of fire exits, or child labour at the facility by pressing 1 for “yes” and 2 for “no” on their cell phones.

“The 5,239 workers who called LaborVoices in the first half of the year worked in 85 factories in Dhaka and Chittagong, which supplied more than 30 global brands including Walmart, Target, Zara, Adidas, H&M and Levi’s,” said Ayush Khanna, Director, LaborVoices adding, “Mobile-phone penetration in developing countries

than 500,000 workers in 16 countries from China toColombia, the company says.

“While technology can help flag abuses in the supply chain, it cannot single- handedly solve them. Calls from workers is a good system to have, but it is not a substitute for audits and checks. You need both totackle the issues in the supply chain,” said Sarah Labowitz, Co-director – Center for Business and Human Rights, at NYC Stern School of Business in New York.

India: Sree Kanaga Durgaa Textile expecting 100 per cent growth

ven in the wake of difficultEmarket conditions, someof the small- and medium- level manufacturers are expecting good growth. Tirupur-based GOTS- certified Sree Kanaga Durgaa Textile offering organic kidswear is also one of them. The company, having 40 machines and exporting 2 lakh pieces per year, is expecting 100 per cent growth in next one year. Rajesh Babu KRA (ex-NIFTian), CEO of the company

Laborlink has reached more than 500,000 workers in 16 countries from China to Colombia

Rajesh Babu KRA (extreme right), CEO, Sree Kanaga Durgaa Textile

more orders are coming in. We are focusing on value addition as we have in-house printing facilities in the name of Macrofast where besides doing our own work we are also serving as a job workers for others too.”

The products of the company are priced from Euro 2 and go up to Euro 4.

The company started kidswear manufacturing with four machines in 2006 and has seen good growth over the years.

India: RB Knits Exports looking to explore South American market

mong the well-Aknown companiesof Ludhiana, RB Knit Exports is exploring newer markets like South America and upgrading its infrastructure also.The company is buying new machinery in knitting/CMT. Currently it has more than 100 computerized flat knitmachines and 1,600 hand flats as well.“We wantto expand our buyer base and for that we are adding new styles.The company is working mainly with European buyers in countries like Germany and Italy, and now it is planning to explore South America and few other markets too,” informed Harsh Bhatia, Merchandiser Manager of the company.

who took over the four decades old family business in 2005, says, “Our wholesaler

buyers of UK, Sweden and France are appreciating our designs and creativity so

The Indian garment manufacturing industry has never been a ‘hot bed’ for investment by foreign enterprises and there are very few success stories to emulate. Yet, Aquarelle – the casual shirts division of the Mauritius-based CIEL Textile Group (Apparel Division), which has 20 factories located in four countries – Mauritius, Madagascar, India and Bangladesh, is a growing company which is proud to be Indian by team but international in its functioning. Team StitchWorld visited their factory on the outskirts of Bangalore and was impressed with the professionalism that they observe. While in conversation with the top management of Nagesh Badida, Executive Director and Parameswar Chopparapu, Global Manufacturing Director, Aquarelle Group, the strategy and manufacturing competency behind the success were decoded…

Aquarelle standardizing systems across the globe

Marketing‘Aquarelle’, not a ‘country’…When the marketing team at Aquarelle meets any customer, they do not talk on Indian, Madagascar or Mauritius lines. They introduce Aquarelle, as a global company that can produce the same product from any country; be it in Madagascar or Mauritius or India with

basis then the prices vary. For example, if denim or any hand- working job is required and if it turns out to be a common product in 100% cotton, then we give the customers the liberty to choose their preference locations from where they want to pick up the products…; if it is India, you get India prices,” explains Nagesh.

Having operations in many countries has its advantages, which

Global Standardisation Process (GSP), ensuring that no matter where it is produced the goods remain the same. Interestingly there are some blur areas in this very straightjacket approach, mostly in terms of pricing.“If the shirts are 100% cotton then they are produced in the same price bracket at all the threemanufacturing destinations, but if something is made on regional

Lays spreading process at Aquarelle factoryNagesh Badida, Executive Director (extreme left), and Parameswar Chopparapu, Global Manufacturing Director, Aquarelle Group (standing next to him) with their senior team at Aquarelle factory that manufactures casual shirts

the buyers also recognize. “Mauritius is duty-free to the US and I will not even try to compete with Mauritius in this market. Our flagship customer,J.Crew predominantly has their business done in Mauritius, even though they know we are in India too and the country isrelatively cheaper, but after the duty-free advantage, we lose out hands down, so there is no competition. Again for production in Madagascar, though it is more expensive than India the proximity advantage itenjoys attracts buyers looking for quick turnarounds,”avers Parameswar.

Standardization of processes…There are lots of processes– cutting, sewing, finishing, and general operations or hard core manufacturing which are similar everywhere. So for every single product the clarity of operations is there.“We have a uniqueGSP (Global Standardisation Process) which we are driving in for the last three years. We have a team working on the system to make all factories uniform. Therefore, what runs here for casual shirts runsthe same at the other two factories in other countries. The local team manages the product nuances according to the customers’ needsas per their resources. A sewing automation process happens as long as it makes cost sense in the country,” says Parameswar.

The company has even standardized the machines used on the production floor across all factory locations along with their model numbers and brands, according to the operations.

Thoroughpre-production systems for smooth production…“We have a very strong pre- production culture here; it starts with the discussion of the feasibility of the stylealong with the costing. We also share the concern we have regarding stitching, washing, embroidery or anything we feel may cause a problemor can be done in a better way,” explains Ashok Kumar, Global Head – IE.

Once an order is confirmed, the finer points are discussed with the sampling, technical and marketing teams. Another set of meetings is held withall the departmental heads to discuss the confirmed styles every 15 days, of which the feasibility study is done every day. In these planning meetings, the teams sit toplan production strategies for coming two months, discuss the orders, while at factory capacity meeting the order quantities are analysed and the requirements in termsof machinery, equipment, skills or any other needs for the upcoming orders are discussed. The factory keeps a 3-month visibility period where analysis of the kind ofskill required for the upcoming styles are to be procured.

Sampling, the 2nd phase of pre-production is done in four stages… It depends on the buyers’ requirementsas to how many samples he requires. First there’s a stage sample, followed by a fit sample, then the size- set sample and then the proto sample. Following the sampling process, the production department conducts a pilot run at the factory, which is the

Sections for each process are defined at the factory, such as the depicted ‘Bundling Area’

Aquarelle handles line balancing by separating preparatory operations from the production line

Quality checks are embedded in the production processes, cut parts are checked before assembly

3rd phase of the pre- production process. The pilot run starts in the production line itself, about 10-12 days before the production needs to begin, depending on the kind of wash that is required in the garment. On an average, there are 1 or 2 pilot stylesin the line. Any problems that are encountered in the pilot run are reviewed and discussed so that it does not occur in the production line and cause machine breakdown or downtime.Along with the raw materials for the garment, the right machines are also placedin line. In case, any special machines have to be rented or leased for final production, the same are arranged for in advance so that there is no delay during production.

“At every stage in our production process, we have a champion, who is the best in that field. We have a pre- production engineer, who coordinates with the people and gets the tasks done,” avers Ashok.

Cutting room…Since 80 per cent of fabrics used in casual shirts are checks, which is Aquarelle’s

forte, the factory does not use automatic cutters. In shirts that use checkered or striped fabric, matching is requiredat the pocket and sometimes even the sleeve plackets need to be matched along with front placket and collar top down.

In terms of automation, factory engineers have manufactured pintables for use in the cutting room,which is customized to their requirements. The company believes in performing their own experiments, rather than making huge investment.“In case we put in automated cutters, we would need to run two shifts to get the ROI, so we are still figuring it out. Because this is a small unit, and you need to cut at least 10,000 to 12,000 pieces with an automatic cutter per day to make it viable. We have plans to save money from such experiments and thenuse it to further automate our processes,” states Ashok.

The company is working on the end-bits management and its optimization.Although, there are quite a few software’s in the market for the same, Aquarelle is trying to come up with their

own and have succeeded to a level where they are able to save up almost 0.5 per cent fabric from their algorithm.

“Our main focus is always to keep the system in place so that not everybody is required to be involved in the day-to-day ongoings of the factory. If the systems don’t deviate, there will not be many anomaliesto handle. Before we implement any solutions and invest in it, we experiment in our own way and then check if theavailable technology can be used in our organization,” says Ashok.

Part preparations in cutting room…After cutting, there is a group of operators in the cutting room to perform three basic preparatory operationsfor the entire 500-5,000 pieces – buttonholing, placket attaching and sleeve attachment to ease the skill balancing in the production line. There are even operators that work on two machines at once, made possible due to the folder and other working aids that are attached inthe machines.

To handle correct placement of checks, critical parts are re-bundled and cut using band knife

The Kanban Supermarket works well for the factory in managing WIP of the production lines

Since 80 per cent of fabrics usedin casual shirts are checks, the factory does not use automatic cutters. Since matching is required at the pocket, and sometimes even the sleeve plackets need to be matched,these small parts are cut using band knife.

Innovative ways to monitor workflow and support efficiency...Maintenance, IE and technical departments all work together to make attachments and machines that are needed inline, in the factory itself.There are trial runs for folders and attachments made in- house to ensure they fit to the production requirements.Once a machine made in-house, works well andaccepted by the operators, it is replicated for wider use. Such synthesized machines are made in a way that they are easy to handle and maintain, so that the operator can self- maintain the machine rather than wait for a technician to come. This reduces downtime and gives the operatora sense of responsibility and ownership.

The pocket making/pressing machine at Aquarelle has been fabricated in-house and are extremely flexible. The die-sets are very simple tomake as compared to the die- sets in European or Chinese machines, which are costly.A die for any pocket size can be made in Rs. 4 and so are

easily created according to the types and sizes of pockets.It gives more productivity and also uses less energy. Since it is easy to handle, operators do not require much training and hence it is a de-skilling machine.The company has fabricated five machines and are in the process of fabricating 10 more. It has a suction system and a stacking system that aid the whole process.

The innovations in the factory are done wherever thereare any problems and even though they are not named as ‘lean tools’, they work in the same manner. The factory has a clear visual system, where the ‘Δ’ sigh is for efficiency, and the ‘’ is for quality. These are also colour codes, where green stands for above75 per cent efficiency, yellow is to depict under 60-75 per cent efficiency, and red is for people working at efficiency below 60 per cent.“By justa glance, we can figure out the status of both the worker and the production level. Our Visual Management providesassistance to the management teams and is standardized across all our factories, anywhere in the world like

Mauritius and Madagascar,” says Ashok.

The production floor maintains productivity and quality sheet, which displays operator’s performanceand hung in front of the operator’s workstation. It shows the daily performance of the operators on top and the quality performance is displayed at the bottom. This is an indicator of the level of work done by‘RFT’ – RightFirst Time method. If it is green, it means that the operatoris working at 97 per cent or above level, if it is orange, the work is at the 93-97 per cent level, and if the level is below that, it would be indicated by red. The list also indicates the number of operations that the operator knows and their absenteeism records.

Factory layout…The Aquarelle factory has been set-up in a U-shaped layout, which provides easy- flow of material throughout the production system.There are on an average 380 machines running at any point of time in the factory, which have a manual hanger system in place for material handling. The factory maintains 3 days’

Aquarelle aces Visual Management by using visual aids in production lines The pocket making/pressing machine at the factory has been fabricated in-house and has an easy and flexible mechanism to cater to all sizes and styles of pockets

The innovations in Aquarelle are done wherever there are any problems and even though they are not named as ‘lean tools’, they work in the same manner.The factory has a clear visual system, where the ‘Δ’ sign is for efficiency, and the ‘o’ is for quality, colour coded to depictthe efficiency of the operator in line.

machines, which are claimed to be the best in this segment. Recently the company bought 19 Brother 7300 DigiFlex machines for oneof their smaller units. Such a choice has been made as the machine allows the user to store the setting done on one machine for a specific fabric and set the other machines in the line all at once. Since the settings or parameters are stored, they can be easily recalled, whenever the samefabric is used. This reduces the time taken in machine setting during style changeover. The machine also comes with a thread-sensor, which informs the operator, when their bobbin thread is empty. It even has a feeding system that takes care of the uneven thickness of the fabric at seams and joints. Currently, there is a lot of training in progress for the machineand it may take up to a year to get the optimal usageof the machine and use all the parameters.

The production room has UHS (Unit Handling Solution), which is a manual hanger system that goes on from loading the cut parts until finishing. The system has

worked well for Aquarelle and has aided in managing production in their lines. UHS has also reduced the number of helpers required in the line and also the time taken in bundle opening and picking out the piece to be worked on, which facilitate increase in operator productivity, along with saving space in the factory.

Aquarelle also uses VAS (Visual Analysis System) to aid the IndustrialEngineering Department. Praising the system, Ashok states,“VAS is a very good IE tool for training operators, calculating SMV and standard operations. We can seemajor improvement in the efficiency. The system is a very useful tool to create SMV database along with standard videos, operational breakdowns of styles, maintaining skill matrix, deskilling IE team’s work toestablish a common database and ease the communication across the factory.”

Commenting on the time taken for any style, Ashok avers,“Our SAM varies from 18 minutes to 35 minutes, depending on the sleeve length, number of pockets,

worth of fabric and has a centralized warehouse, which is located 5 kilometres away from the manufacturing location. 10 per cent of the fabric used is inspected for quality assurance.

Production floor…“We have Kanban cards, which take care of our WIP.In case we plan 1,000-piece production for a day, we keep 400-500 pieces’ worth of WIP. Our Kanban Supermarket is stocked according to the daily production planning and all cut parts are stored at one end

of the productionfloor,” shares Ashok.

Aquarelle uses many machines from Brother and states that the machines have worked well for them… It is also easier to maintain the spare parts inventory for one brand of machines, rather than for various brands.They have Juki machines too, for example, the buttonholing

Aquarelle rigorously follows preventive maintenance for its machines by updating its Preventive Maintenance Board that keeps track of the status of each machine in production line

Aquarelle uses ‘Unit Handling Solutions’ from ISSS to maintain their production lines and reduce manpower

The company has a studiously maintained ‘maintenance room’ where anyone can find any tool or spare part in less than 10 seconds

Any tool, spare parts, folder or equipment required in the factory is stored in the ‘maintenance room’, managedto the level thatanyone can fetch whatever is required within 10 seconds.The 5S systemworks well for the company and even helps in handling the inventory of all parts required.

season and customer. Templates are used in production of collars and cuffs to ease the operation and attain fixed quality in each piece which also leads to de-skilling any operator,” declares Ashok.

Each floor of the factory has alarms that set off when any abnormal situation takes place. In case the boiler starts acting up, any personnel on the floor, who notices the alarm light can act on it.

Maintenance room…The well-stocked and innovatively managed maintenance room at Aquarelle is benchmarked, as per 5S practices.“Wecompete at a Japanese factory competition – ‘ABK AOTS – CUMI“5S” Award Competition

of Best 5S Practices’ – with external competition, which are not just from the apparel industries, but from many industries; and our factory received the ‘Excellence Award’ last year and the ‘Sustenance Award’ this year. We have even applied for the tag of ‘model factory’, which is the toughest tag to receive,” shares Ashok.

Any tool, spare part, folder or equipment required in the factory is stored in themaintenance room, managed to the level that anyone can fetch whatever is required within 10 seconds. The 5S system works well for the company and even helps in handling the inventory ofall parts required. If in case there is a breakdown, and any spare part is required to restore the machine, there

need not be a commotion in the whole line for the same as the maintenance team is trained sufficient enough to handle the anomaly. Also, if any mechanic or technicianremoves a tool from the board, they leave a chip at its place which bears their name and photograph. This method ensures that the tool is never lost and is traceable anywhere in the factory. The cupboards and drawers are all marked and labelled, guaranteeing that even if the maintenance team is absent, whoever requires any tool can locateit with the help of labels and markers.

The maintenance room has a wall of matrix, which is to keep track of themaintenance of the machine in each line of the sewing floor. The company follows

preventive maintenance and uses the matrix to ensureall machines are serviced at the correct time. It also benefits in keeping note of the machines that needmaintenance or are currently broken-down. All the lines are colour coded, where greenis to depict the machines that have been recently serviced, for which files are also maintained tracking the dates when the machine was calibrated, or when it had a part changed. Yellow is used to depict the machines that need to be serviced and the red ones are to show the machines that are currently not in use due to break- down. This wall-matrix aids in visually keeping track of the maintenance plans for the whole year. There arein total 14 people in the maintenance team.

Efficiency grows in tandem with involvement of people at managerial positions...

It is a well-known fact that majority of the apparel manufacturing facilities in India are unable to drive efficiency and it hovers around at the 40-60 per cent level. Most of the investors/ profit centre heads are unable to crack the nut, forced to settle at this level and accept it as the “norm”. The situation forces them to go for new investment/facilities to execute orders, which could have been avoided if the efficiency of existing facilities is improved. Jayapal Nair– Apparel Manufacturing Expert, Consultant and Author, briefly discusses an approach towards achieving the efficiency goal...

or the past couple ofdecades, every popularFmanufacturing system

in other industries around the globe have been tailored to suit apparel manufacturing – be it in productivity improvement, WIP control, quality management, planning tools, production monitoring tools, etc. – and have widely been accepted in India’s apparel manufacturing sector despite their premium. Even after these investments, in real terms, production efficiency has not even reached to 70 per cent or 80 per cent level consistently, thanks to the old Pandora box of worries such as low-volume orders, unskilled labour, heavy absenteeism, de-motivated workforce, etc. However, there are fully compliant facilities, whichuse the same Asian workforce and consistently hit the high level of efficiencies. Hence, this attainability warrants different management tactics in the current Indian context.

The IE Bulletin – General Myths and in-built CushionsIn order to achieve higher efficiency, it is very important to

line is using excess manpower than budgeted.

b) Another culprit is balancing loss while allocating operators in the bulletin. IEs tend to allocate excess operators to round off the fractions to the next whole

number. Besides, the factory feels that their workers are at say maximum 75 per cent efficiency only and hence

the SMV will be extrapolated accordingly. Together with ‘balancing the whole number game’, the actual bulletin efficiency will be at around 65 per cent. After negotiating with production team the target will be set at 60 per cent; say for example, 1,000 pieces in 8 hours. The same figure will be considered down the line by production team as 100 per cent target. The line may achieve 800 pieces at their peak, which

is actually just 48 per cent efficiency (0.6 x 0.8). Further, if there are few more days for the shipment to execute, the production tends to crawl, further adding to loss

have a stringent and well spelt IE Bulletin without giving room for diluting the target. When there are known cushions, a higher target can never be achieved. Generally, IE Bulletins have the following weaknesses:

a) Most of the companies’ IEs follow a system to allocate SMV to machine operations only and not to help operations such

as in-line marking, trimming, turning, ironing, etc. considering they are low paid.

Strategy: All direct operations including helper operations must be allocated with SMV and manned accordingly, which should be the garment SMV. On a better note, the number of direct helpers should be limited to a maximum of 10-15 per cent of direct machine operators’ count. The requirement of indirect workers such as supervisors, monitor, quality controller, quality checkers are to be placed just sufficiently and the count to be frozen. The assembly line should look trim, slim and focused. A “combing operation” to be performed daily to see and control if the

Adorning the clothes with a number of accessories and finishes not only intensifies its aesthetic appeal but also adds value to the garment. Be it eye-catchy print designs, attractive thread work, use of embellishments such as sequins, or various types of embroideries like flock printing, there is a compelling need among apparel manufacturers to differentiate their products from others by adding value to the garments. Jeans is mostly enhanced by various finishes, both dry finish and wet finish, to modify the appearance and comfortability of jeans. One such technology that is currently in use is laser finishing, usually known as denim fading technique. In this edition of Tech Value Addition comeback, Team StitchWorld discusses the various techniques of denim fading and advantages of laser finishing.

Fading Denims the Sustainable Way

rabbing eyeballs since thebeginning, with its multi-G faceted use from casual daily

wear fabric to trendy high fashion garment, denim has the ability of fitting into any social or professional setting. Basic denims can take on new appeal with an innovative concoction of chemicals, scrappers, laser beams, pumice stones, etc.and there are various methods to achieve that natural faded streak in denim, which is much sought-after by masses and classes alike.

Team SW explores on how your favourite pair of denim jeans undergoes that ‘washed’ look and which conventional method various denim players in the industry acknowledge to achieve that finish…

Arvind Denim achieves denim fading look by manually scraping with emery paper of different grades and strokes depending on the intensity and look desired, or by using handheld rotary device with emery paper attached on the desired area with the required number of strokes. The company also does denim fading via laser by creating the desired area andburning them on the denim, along with robots to do the scraping

Production Director, Sai-Tex. Additionally, the company also uses the sustainable way of denim fading through the help of laser machines by Jeanologia.

Fading denims with laser technology...The phase of fading of denim by sandblasting is losing itsmomentum as the new technology of laser finishing is coming into play. Also known as spray painting in denims, laser finishing is used exclusively on the surface of the denim and are considered a more sustainable process comparedto other traditional methods of finishing such as acid washing, sandblasting or PP spray. In laser finishing, a computer inputted with design, drives the laser beam to the material where fadingis required. The laser works by creating extensive heat. The laser beam decomposes the dye and the resulting vapours vent away. The material fades only where the beam impacts on the fabric. Commercially, two types of lasers are being used: solid-based (wavelength of 1 μm) and gas-based (wavelength of 10 μm). The desired degree of fading depends upon the wavelength,

part. Ashish Kumar, CEO, Arvind Exports states,“Levi's, one of our customers, asks for denim fading by laser. It is a sustainable technology and the future of denim fading.”

Catering to Benetton Jeans, Spykar Jeans and Pepe Jeans, RC Apparels use conventional method of denim fading such as manual scraping by sandpaper. The process of fading of jeans at RC Apparels requires the air dummies onto which the jeans is fitted and the air is blown up. The company uses rubber templates of different sizes as reference areas where the fading effect is to be created. PP spraying on jeans is another technique used to create that effect. Manvendra Singh, GM– Operations, RC Apparels states, “Laser fading is still not popular in India due to its high investment.”

A well-known jeans manufacturer in Vietnam, Sai-Tex does various types of finishing on jeans including the fading effect. The company achieves the look by doing PP spray on jeans and then leaving it to dry.“From next year onwards we will start using an indigenously developed eco-friendly alternative to PP spray for G-Star products. G-Star is one of the most renowned buyers of the company,” mentions Md. Ifthikar,

power density, and pulse width of the laser beam.

Advantages of laser finishingThis computer-controlled process of laser finishing uses zero water and therefore is an ecological and economical process. This technique can create not only local abrasion and fabric breaks, used look effect but also lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures as well. Itnot only consumes less time and less space but also offers high consistency of production and excellent reproducibility and high productivity. Possibilities of human error are absent being an automatic system with 0 per cent rejection rate compared with around 5 per cent in manual system. The ratioof manpower required in laser and manual is approximately 1:3.Moreover, the effect quality and hand feel is comparatively finer in laser system as against manual denim fading. The machine is extremely safe, simple to operate and compact. It therefore necessitates very low maintenance and cleaning.

Disadvantages of laser finishingThe biggest setback of this technique is its relatively high cost. Skilled operators are required to handlethe machine which proves out to be a hindrance at times. Also, powerrequirement is higher in laser system (approximately 7.5 kilowatt per hour). Creation of a natural looking effect on denim through laser finishing might be a problematic concern. The fumes produced during the process are hazardous to health and laser radiation has harmful effects oneyes and skin.

Machinery for laser finishingTonello’s new development multicolour Laser is capable of

furnishing different colours on a denim (or any other fabric) substrate by homogeneously applying aresin (developed by Zaitex) onto the garments. The resin is then permanently imprinted on the fabric through a special setting of Tonello Laser.

Jeanologia, the Spanish innovator of denim finishing technologies, lays emphasis on sustainable denim finishing technologies with TwinHS– a machine utilizing laser light for the creating wash effects on denim. Equipped with two laser resonators of maximum power and designed for mass production volumes, TwinHSis touted to be amongst the most productive and fastest laser in the market with an output of 4,0005-pocket jeans per operator per day. Each operation is controlled by an artificial vision camera so as to ensure no time is wasted on secondary operations and the operator can keep a tab on the progress of a design. The rotation speed of its dummy and its easy placement for the garment help speed up the process. Its dual marking

system and an exclusive digital power control allow working on both jeans legs at the same time.

Jeanologia Flexi E laser technology incorporates the ultimate electronic features and Jeanologia’s patented technology UFS (Ultra-Fast Scan) that increases marking speed while reducing electrical consumptionon each garment. Its reference element system offers easy garment placement. Rotating head and optical system that allow working either on horizontal or vertical mode can deliver multiple marking combinations.

In the realm of eco-sustainability, another company encouraging environment-friendly denim finishing practices is Sei Laser, the leading Italian manufacturer of industrial laser systems, with its Flexi Denim, a digital laser machine that replaces traditional, manual methods for discoloration, abrasion, decoration, marking, engraving and cutting of jeans and other finished garments. Flexi Denim safeguards the environment by reducing water consumption by80 per cent and eliminating the use of toxic chemicals. It can be custom configured to meet the needs of customer at the time of purchase and upgradeable later with additional options. Jeans can be processed horizontally on the tables or vertically on the mannequin.

Jeans Laser Engraving Machine ZJ(3D)-9090LD by Golden Laser, equipped with 500W CO2 RF metal laser and triaxial dynamic large-format galvanometer control system, is an energy-saving,eco-friendly solution. This low- maintenance-cost machine can engrave a variety of personalized designs such as cat whiskers, monkey wash, PP spray, hanging rub, ripped, sandblasting, snow, portrait and other effects with clear texture and never fade.

Denim fading process through Jeanologia’s laser technology

These conventional techniques largely fail on sustainability grounds and call for a more sustainable and environment- friendly option.

Whiskering

Whiskers, also known as cat’s whiskers, are the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearingon hips and front thigh area. This is being done manually with help of sharp edge emery paper rubbed on denim. DemcoVina mechanically scrapes the denim with sand paper on the areas to be faded. The areas to be faded are referenced by the templates under the denim, which serve as a guide for areas that must be scraped and abraded.

Grinding/Scraping

The‘destructed’ denim look is most popular among teens and the youth.The certain look is achieved using blades and other rough or sharp tools to nick and tear denim surface at desired places.

SandblastingThe technique, purely a mechanical and water- free process, is based onscrubbing of the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated, to givethe desired distressed/abraded/ used look. Though it provides uniformity in natural abraded effect, it is a hazardous technique and has been banned.

Stone WashingFreshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded orworn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans removing some dye particles from the surfaces ofthe yarn. However, quality of the process is difficult to control as the outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform and requires high capital investment as well. It damages the machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion.

Tonello has designed NoStone® to overcome economic, mechanical and environmental limitations of existing stone- wash processes. The NoStone® system eliminates the use of pumice stone, replacing itwith a stainless-steel abrasive drum, fastened to the washing machine. This drum can create a variety of finishes through flexible abrasion adjustments to create the look and styles. Due to the mechanical – ratherthan chemical – nature of the process, the NoStone® effect is the same as that of stone-wash and reduces the carbon footprint created by using pumice stones.

Potassium Permanganate Spray (PP Spray)

To achieve a bright effect on denim, PP Spray is done with the help of normal spray gun with each jean installed on rubber dummies. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the full fit of thegarment is exposed. The garment is hanged in the open to dry after PP Spray and it turns its colour completely to brown, followed by neutralization process to remove any chemicals which can oxidize or irritate the skin of the wearer and prevent yellowing and bad smell from garment. The most common neutralizer used is sodium metabisulfite (Na2S2O5) which is used as an antioxidant. This process is extremely dangerous to health as micro- particles absorbed by works performing this technique results in lung problems.

Another offering by Tonello to overcome harmful effects of PP Spray is The Water Brush that uses water for whitening.Interestingly, the Water Brush runs on water but consumes none asa large tank beneath the spray robot collects the water used for whitening the garment, filters it, and sends it back to the robot through a recirculation system. The highlight again is reduced consumption of resources, and zero impact on environment and operators.

Conventional Methods of Denim Fading

Whiskers being developed manually

Mechanical scraping of denim

PP Spray process on denim

Mattresses of today have traversed a long journey – from just comfort to fitness and now to even ‘appeal’... However, in all cases, the outer covering is invariably quilted with a backing material to give it a decorative look and fluffy feel. The US $ 24.70 billion market for mattress is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.5 per cent in the period 2016-2024, and Asia-Pacific mattress market, in particular, is expected to witness the fastest CAGR of10.7 per cent during 2015-2020 period. This is an opportunity area for the sewn product industry that not many are looking at.

Making mattress production easier with automation...

mattress consists of twoparts: a cover and a supportA system. The support

system may be made of springs, visco elastic foam or latex to act as a foundation for the mattress. But it is the cover or cushioning layers which serves as an exterior decorative cover and alsodetermines the feel and comfort of the final product.

The cover, along with a backing material, is made on a giant quilting machine, which holds together a multitude of needles that stitch the layers together. The stitch chosen serves both useful and ornamental purposes, as it must prevent the mattress cover from slipping or creeping over the layers of cushioning in addition to creating a visually pleasing stitch pattern.

Once the fabric is quilted, it is cut into panels that will fit the top and bottom of the mattress. The side panels are often cut from this same composite or made separately on a border machine.If side handles or vents are to be added, they are attached to

Matramatic QuilterThe Matramatic Quilter is suitable to stitch not only mattress, but also the quilt covers and mattress toppers. The machine offers the advantage of high-speed, heavy- duty stitching; coupled with computer control that ensures its precision and easy operation. The latest addition to the Matramatic Quilting range offers one additional key main advantage over many of its rivals – the ability to quilt many natural fibres suchas latex, wool, horse hair, cashmere, etc. which can’t be quilted on traditional through-feed quilters.

the side panels before these are applied to the mattress.

There are many quilting machine manufacturing companies, among them is England-based MPT Group, which produces and supplies automated and stand- alone mattress machinery that are exported to over 80 countries and stand out for its features. Its latest launch – Matramatic Quilter, is a lock-stitch computer-controlledquilting machine. Team StitchWorld reviews the technology, along with iQuilt, a multi-needle chain stitch quilting machine by the same company.

Matramatic Quilter, a lockstitch mattress quilter by MPT Group

The machine has a floating beam technology, similar to the technology usedin computerized cutting machines, which facilitates multiple pattern designs. These patterns can be stored in the embedded computer of the machine, with the provision of pattern selection via a touchscreen display. The machine bed (dimensions13.45 ft. x 13.77 ft.) is wholly covered by the floating beam, which hosts the sewing machine head over it. This beam can support up to two sewing heads, with an option of including a Duerkopp sewing head as is mentioned in the key features. Placement of two sewing headsin a beam aids in faster production as they both work on the same mattress frame at once, thereby doubling the productivity.

Matramatic Quilter comes with twin loading frames, which allow the operators to prepare the mattress to be quilted while the quilting on another mattress is in process, which saves on critical time. Fit for even the size of a king- sized mattress, the standard machine has a clamping area of 8.8 ft. x 8.8 ft., providinga clear quilting area of8.6 ft. x 8.6 ft. – which can easily accommodate two of the largest size mattresses commonly used by people and the hospitability industry.

The two thread lockstitch sewing machine on the

beam incorporated with a lifting presser foot and a thread trimmer comes with a thread breakage detection mechanism that alerts the operator when there is a thread breakage during sewing so that it can be rectified. The machine stopsoperating, giving the operator the time to mend the broken thread. The sewing head has a variable speed of up to 1,250 stitches per minute, for a stitch length ranging from2 mm to 10 mm, that is, 2½ to 12 S.P.I. at the linear speed of 25 metres per minute (82 feet per minute).

iQuiltPutting to use their quilting experience of 50 years, the MPT Group has another ace in its portfolio – the iQuilt, part of the Matramatic Quilting range. The machine, which can quilt together rolls of fabric using multi-needle chain stitch, is ideal for Mattress Panels, Bedspreads, Comforters, Sleeping Bags and Upholstery.

iQuilt can be integrated with an optional, fully-automated, panel-cutting system forthe production of finished panels and preparing multi- slit borders, which produces strips used to cover the edges of the mattress. Unique features like an air mandrel, an apparatus that aids ineasy unloading of finished products and full thread breakage detection for top

and bottom threads with LED lighting in threading areas make the machine easyto work.

The machine comes witha three-roll in-feed system, which allows feeding of three different rolls in one set, offering manufacturers the ability to combine a variety of fillings such as foam, visco memory foam and polyester in their mattress. A servo- driven cloth in-feed ensures minimal stretch during the process, while the access for bottom threading is made simple with a powered door opening to the rear, the front threads are easy to control and simple to access.

The iQuilt has a three needle bar configuration, with a needle space of 25.4 mm and a variable sewing speed ranging from 850 RPM to1200 RPM. These bars provide stitching sizes of 2-7 mm and an overall production speed of 80-230 metres per hour.The machine has a maximum horizontal movement of up to 450 mm and has the provision of quilting a mattress of width

iQuilt, multi-needle chain-stitch mattress quilter by MPT Group

8 feet and thickness up to0.2 feet.

Powered with a Panasonic brand servo control, iQuilt offers a wide variety of pattern effects. Also included in the machine, the iDesign software assists in creation of self- designed range of designs for continuous quilting, in addition to more than 200 pre-loaded jump & tack design options which have been grouped together based on fixed needle positions to make pattern selection simple. These pre- installed designs can be further expanded by adjustments to needle spacing. An on-screen display shows any changes to pattern effects giving the user further pattern choice.

The major companies operating in the global mattress marketin India include Sleepwell, Kurl- On, Spring Air, India Mattress Company, J & J Enterprises, Prestige Coir, Nataraj Insulation,M. H. Polymers Pvt. Ltd., Sant Mattresses and more; whereas the international players include Select Comfort,Sealy Corporation, Spring Air, Comfortaire among others.

The major companies operating in the global mattress market in India include Sleepwell, Kurl-On, Spring Air, India Mattress Company, J & J Enterprises, Prestige Coir, Nataraj Insulation, M. H. Polymers Pvt. Ltd., Sant Mattresses and more.

USA: Gerber Technology debuts AutoMatch at IFAI Expo 2016

erber Technology, worldGleader in integratedsoftware and automation solutions for apparel and industrial markets, debuted its revolutionary layout and cutting solution for furniture manufacturers – AutoMatch at the Industrial FabricsAssociation International (IFAI) Expo 2016, which took place from 18-21 October 2016,in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Gerber’s AutoMatch utilizes advanced digital imaging technology to ensure that patterns such as stripes, plaids and other complex designs continue seamlessly fromone cut piece to the next. The system increases throughput by up to 75 per cent and helps furniture manufacturers reduce labour costs by as

much as 50 per cent as it eliminates the conventional matching methods that rely on teams of operators to manually align patterns before cutting.

In addition to ensure greater accuracy, AutoMatch utilizes a single operator and does not require extensive training or labour skilled in furniture design and pattern matching.

“Pattern continuity is the hallmark of quality upholstered furniture.However, ensuring continuity can be extremely time- consuming and prone to errors, adding significant time and cost with wasted materials and labour associatedwith re-cutting,” said Tom Gordon, Director – Product Management at Gerber Technology.

USA: AATCC, SGIA to hold conference on ‘Digital Textile Printing’

ATCC (AmericanAAssociation of Textile Chemists and Colorists) andSGIA (Specialty Graphic Imaging Association), an international association for specialty imaging, are jointly organizing an educational conference on Digital Textile Printing:The Future isNow, which is slated to be held on 6th-7th December at Durham, NC, USA.“Thepartnership between AATCC and SGIA for this conference dovetails nicely with both organization’s mission and purpose,” said Johnny Shell, VP – Technical Services, SGIA.

The two-day event will feature the industry experts presenting topics on technology, colour management, product performance, testing, design, and more. The first day will have presentations on colour management for digital textiles, finishing, meeting your customer’s sustainability objectives, product testing for qualityassurance, and research findings from North Carolina State University College of Textiles. The second day includes designing for digital printing of textiles, fabric factors impacting digital printing, digital print inspiration and design, web-to-print, digital manufacturing.

AATCC is the world’s leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals which provides test method development, quality control materials, and professional networking for thousands of members in 60 countries throughout the world.

Gerber’s AutoMatch utilizes advanced digital imaging technology to ensure that patterns continue seamlessly from one cut piece to the next

In the period of January-August 2016, global apparel imports by the US plunged (-) 4.46per cent in terms of value. Additionally, it faced a decline of (-) 1.08 per cent in terms of volume.

TRADE STATISTICS

Bangladesh’s quantity of apparel exportsto the US in the first 7 months of the year proved fruitful with 1.69 per cent increase and amarginal increase of0.85 per cent value wise.

China faced a major down surge of (-) 2.26 per cent in quantity of totalapparel exports to the US in the period of January-August 2016 and it dived (-) 7.73 per cent value wise.

Vietnam witnessed a surge of 6.41 per cent and 3.04per cent in terms of quantity and value, respectively of total apparel exportsto US in January- August 2016 period.

France: Lectra launches Modaris V8

Modaris V8 ensures the smooth exchange of quality data throughout the supply chain. In today’s fashion industry, close co-ordination is required to respect tightdelays and to rapidly get high- quality products to market.Improving product approval processes and digital file

he latest version ofTModaris® V8 launchedby Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles, and more, will facilitate collaboration during the fashion industry’s product development process.

Modaris is one of the widely used 2D/3D patternmaking and grading solutions worldwide, adopted by well- known brands in fashion and apparel. The solution handles complexities such as extended product development processes along with the constant pressure for new, high-quality products to reach the market quickly.

exchange, Modaris V8 speeds up creation, accelerates sampling, and facilitates teamwork – all of which are required by widely spread product development teams these days.

Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and

China: Karl Mayer’s tricot machine enables one-piece seamless bra

demand for this innovative, high-speed tricot machine is also increasing,” whileadding that the machine was premiered at ITMA 2015 in Milan, and has been selling well ever since. Over the last six months, there has beena huge increase in demand from China.

The HKS 2-SE operates in a machine gauge of E 36 to produce the lingerie fabric for the one-piece bra. This high-speed tricot machine specializes in producing stretch knit goods, and is designed to operate at a high level of efficiency to produce high-quality fabrics.Also, specific changes to the machine design have enabled energy consumption to be reduced by as much as 13 per cent, the company reports.

warp-knitted charmeuseA fabric, produced on KarlMayer’s HKS 2-SE machine, has been used to develop a one-piece seamlessbra, which is now gaining traction in the Chinese lingerie business, reports the company.

According to the manufacturer, this popular lingerie item owes its success to its special design as it is produced with virtually no seams, claims to be practically invisible and comfortable under clothing, and has no friction points. The fabric produced on Karl Mayer HKS 2-SE machine lends it a soft and cool feel.

Rainer Mueller, Sales Manager,Karl Mayer averred,“With the hype surrounding thisfashionable, seamless bra, the

The smooth, high-quality fabric can be processed into a complete bra in just a few stages. The entire bra with its cups and side wings is styled in a single piece, and combined with a single layeror several layers. The assembly is laminated and the straps and fastening are added.

The cutting/sealing process produces clean fabric edges without any seams, and the

multi-layered construction ensures the flexibility of the product. Foam inserts can also be incorporated to create push-up effects, and bras having differently coloured inner and outer sectionscan also be produced. The variety and efficiency of the production process are said to enable manufacturers to achieve rapid delivery times and to react quickly to rapidly changing fashion trends.

Modaris V8 has the ability to create and fine-tune products more easily for faster approval in the pre-production process

Communications Officer, Lectra avers,“Modaris has been a flagship solution in the fashion industry for decades.With this newest version our customers, across theentire product development ecosystem, will benefit from the ability to drive a state-of- the-art collaborative process, ensuring data consistency, end-product quality and finally faster time to market.”

Benefits of the latest version of Modaris V8 include the ability to create and fine- tune products more easily for faster approval in the pre-production process, toindustrialize patterns faster for a smoother assembly process, and to position and grade logos and graphics in 2D and 3D simultaneously.

Karl Mayer’s HKS 2-SE machine operates in a machine gauge of E 36 to produce the lingerie fabric for the one-piece bra

USA: Google files patent for its ‘gesture control system’ in garments

This interactive textile can process the touch-input to generate touch data that is useable to initiate functionality at various remote devices–smartphones, tablets, smartwatches, eyewear, and far beyond – that are wirelessly coupled with the interactive textile.

The concept of Project Jacquard is simple enough–weaving touch-sensitive components into fabrics using conventional textile manufacturing processes. It took 10 months of intensive research by engineers at Google to design custom yarn that could withstand the pulling and heating of the weaving process. They hadto develop touch-sensitive threads that could detect the

oogle has filed a patentGapplication with the USPatent & Trademark Office for one of its latest inventions which relates to an all-new ‘gesture control system’ designed specifically to work with future smart garments like an office or ski jacket, sporting cap or jersey, shirts, pursesand other bits of clothing able to recognize touch- based gestures, under Project Jacquard, a Google’s platform for embedding sensors and feedback devices in fabrics and clothing.

According to Google, an interactive textile includes a grid of conductive thread woven into the interactive textile to form a capacitivetouch sensor that is configured to detect touch-input.

swipes, strokes, and taps of multiple fingers at once, and that could be woven into a patch by a loom and even settle on a means of producing them at scale.

The invention is focused on interactive textiles and the gestures that could be used to assist consumers interact with devices that are currently in their purse, jacket or jean pocket.The user will only have to tap their garmentin a particular manner and the smartphone would react immediately saving the user time scrambling to pull out their device just to execute a single function.

By partnering with Levi’s, Google was able to produce a denim jacket called ‘Levi’s Commuter Trucker Jacket’ in

a year in the form of a Project Jacquard garment to be sold in stores from 2017. Google’s technology is infused in theform of a cuff strap, which, once strapped firmly to the jacket, can be used by the wearer to swipe across or tap to perform actions like pinning a location to Google Maps, answeringa phone call, or dismissing text message.

Paul Dillinger, Vice President– Global Product Innovation, Levi’s averred,“We committed to introducing a product this year and we’re excited to have working production samples that developers can use to help build our initial prototypes.This is invisible technology and discrete, intuitive gestures that have the potential to change our relationship with clothing.”

USA: Gerber Technology’s YuniquePLM scores high in WhichPLM evaluation

creative design for CAM in the evaluation, giving homage to its integration with industry-leadingsoftware AccuMark® pattern design, marker making, grading and production planning software.

Additionally, the overall rating for YuniquePLM was

Gerber Technology has announced that WhichPLM, an independent digital magazine dedicated to product development for the fashion industry which evaluates supplier software, has completed an evaluation on its YuniquePLM®,product lifecycle management software.

The evaluation conducted analysed distinct criteria including supplier competencies and industry knowledge, PLM solution technical benchmark, roadmap and development, executive vision and customer feedback.

YuniquePLM garnered two 4-star ratings in creative design for CAD and

3 out of 5 stars, which is clearly above average for the industry. The star rating is calculated by averaging more than 40 individual technical competencies.

Complementing the solution and its score, Mark Harrop, CEO – WhichPLM averred, “Gerber Technology and its

YuniquePLM solution scored well, meeting or exceeding the industry average in most process areas. But WhichPLM was most excited by the work that Gerber are currently undertaking in connecting the extended supply-chain and delivering value from a total digital solution perspective.”

The overall rating for YuniquePLM was 3 out of 5 stars, which is clearly above average for the industry

USA: Tukatech launches Enterprise Edition of TUKA3D system

adopt virtual sample-making programs like TUKA3D that just don’t have the capital.I’ve always believed that companies of all sizes should have the same access to advanced technology. SinceI have seen the industry in California transform due to affordability and availability of TUKAcad, I can only imagine

ukatech Inc. has launchedTthe Enterprise Editionof its TUKA3D system for virtual product development. This edition will include the same high-functioning 3D development capabilities but at a more affordable price.

TUKA3D EE (Enterprise Edition) will not only integrate modules of TUKA3D for virtual product development, TUKAcloud for digital collaboration, but also TUKAdesign EE (Enterprise Edition), which is used to prepare the 2Dpattern for 3D development, as well as make adjustments in patterns. Similar to any TUKA system, unlimited training, implementation, and consulting are also included for the first year with TUKA3D EE subscription.

Ram Sareen, Founder and CEO, Tukatech Inc. averred, “We know there are companies who want to

what will happen to the apparel industry globally with more attainable 3D product development and collaboration technology,” while adding that the company has dozensof vendors, brands, and retailers worldwide who have reported great results with the implementation

Japan: First-ever laundry sorting and folding ‘bot’ is here!

that it knows the correct way to fold it.

During a demonstration at the show, Laundroid took about 10 minutes to pick out one garment, identify it and fold it. The manufacturer states that some garments will take longer. The folded laundry is then placed onto one of several shelves that are about halfway up the Laundroid machine. The laundry can also be sortedbased on the type of garment or according to articles of family members.

Pre-orders for Laundroid will begin in March 2017 and be

okyo-based SevenTDreamers has developedLaundroid – the world’s first laundry sorting and folding robot which will go on sale next year, announced the manufacturer at the Ceatec Electronics Show held near Tokyo, Japan.

Laundroid is of the size of a large refrigerator and has a pull-out drawer near itsbase where unsorted clothes can be thrown in. A robot inside the device picks up each item of clothing and analyses image with artificial intelligence to figure out what kind of clothing it is, so

restricted to Japan only. The first units will be delivered later in the year and wider availability of a commercial version is planned for2018, said Shin Sakane,

President and CEO of Seven Dreamers, while adding that although initial sales will be concentrated on Japan, the company expects to sell a limited number in USA too.

TUKA3D Enterprise Edition includes the same high-functioning 3D development capabilities but at a more affordable price

Laundroid is of the size of a large refrigerator and has a pull-out drawer near its base where unsorted clothes can be thrown in

of TUKA3D in their product development process.

There has even been a case where ‘going virtual’ allowed a vendor of Tukatech to reduce product development time from 90 days to only 7 days.Another increased theirfirst-sample acceptance rate from about 93 per cent to99.8 per cent.

A promising and successful future equipped with required knowledge and perspectives is what one expects from technical and commercial job training courses, which would also create an ideal condition for a successful future by providing the know-how of thetextile value chain. Groz-Beckert is one such name that offers its customers and partners an all-round support and knowledge about the entire textile value chain through its numerous, comprehensive training programmes, covering the complete gamut of textile production and joining methods...

Groz-Beckert AcademyShaping the future along textile value chain

arking a globalM presence in over 150countries, Groz-Beckert combines numerous competencies in knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, and sewing through the Groz-Beckert Academy, Germany. The practice-focused training courses offered by the institute aims at sharing the know- how, communicating experience, and making expertise accessible through Technology and Development Centre (TEZ). The centre is equipped with machines and technology related to production, whether for process experiments or prototypes, and special series production.TEZ thus facilitates maximumhands-on practical training for every single course.

The training courses are segregated into three categories– basic, advanced and special, thereby creating the foundation for shaping the future of the textile industry. Basic training courses render a general overview of the textile value chain andof the current business fields of Groz-Beckert; advanced training courses are aimed to enhance and extend the knowledge of thebasics with specialist know-how in certain areas of technology; whereas special training courses are aimed to equip one with expert knowledgein certain special areas of the textile value chain.

The courses offered inGroz-Beckert training academythus helps to enhance the knowledge of entrepreneurial and managerial- level professionals in the textilevalue chain. The academy also offers discounts for group trainings (for those enrolling together).Additionally, it also has the facility of company-specific custom-based courses wherein Groz-Beckert Academy arranges special courses customized in line with clients’ needs and requirements to train the managerial staff.

Details of some ofthe courses offered by Groz-Beckert:

BASIC COURSE

Course Name: Technical TextilesDuration: 4-5 hoursLanguages: German/English/ChinesePrice: Euro 250Frequency: Twice a year

(English/German)On request (Chinese)

This course gives a general overview of technical textiles such as basics of structure, production and function of technical textiles. The syllabus of this course includes definition of technical textiles, fields of application and functions of technical textiles, processes for the

production of technical textiles and particularities on joining technical textiles sector.

Course Name: Manual Flat Knitting and Fault Analysis – IDuration: 1 day (7 hours) Languages: German/English/Chinese Price: Euro 450Frequency: Six times a year

(English/German) On request (Chinese)

This first phase of the course provides a general overview of warp knitting technologies and resulting fault analysis. The content basics of knitting technology and faultanalysis include history of knitting and knitting machines, introduction to machine and needle technology, basic types of fabric structures, areas of application and products, machine design, technical features and functions of knitting machines. Practical exercises will also be undertaken on the manual flat knitting machine.

Course Name: Theory of Fabric Structures Duration: 4 days (7 hours/day) Languages: German/English/

Spanish/ChinesePrice: Euro 1,800Frequency: Once a year

(German/English/Spanish) On request (Spanish)

A special knowledge of the theory of fabric structures can be gained by

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