summer 2013 enchantment

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Angel Fire Eagle Nest Red River Cimarron Taos Taos Ski Valley Raton Mora Las Vegas Sipapu Questa Trinidad A publication of the Sangre de Cristo Chronicle

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A Visitors Guide to Northern New Mexico

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    Angel FireEagle NestRed River CimarronTaosTaos Ski ValleyRaton Mora Las Vegas SipapuQuesta Trinidad

    A publication of the Sangre de Cristo Chronicle

  • 2 USummer Enchantment 2013

    [email protected]/www.aboutnorthcountry.com

    LandtHomestCondostVacation Rentals

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    www.aboutnorthcountry.com15 Halo Pines , PO Box 122Angel Fire, NM 87710

    Samuels Construction CoBuild-To-Suit/Remodel

    Serving the Valley since 1978

    Stanley R. Samuels, Qualifying Broker

  • 10 USummer Enchantment 2013

    In the Northern New Mexico mountain communities of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas, Music from Angel Fire will celebrate its 30th Anniversary Season with Chick Corea as the 2013 composer-in-residence.

    The festival will delight audiences with enchanting chamber music from Aug. 16 through Sept. 1 in 15 concerts featuring works from the Baroque to the Contemporary periods. Included among the 2013 artists will be Artistic Director Ida Kavafian on violin, Ani Kavafian on violin, Anne-Marie McDermott on piano, Peter Wiley on cello, Tara Helen OConnor on flute, Richard Stoltzman on clarinet, Susanne Mentzer with her mezzo soprano, the Harlem Quartet and Imani Winds.

    The second annual Music Walk will be held in Angel Fire on July 6. The first year of this fun, outdoors event to benefit the festival was so well received that it will be expanded this year to include a walk, a 5K run and 30-mile bike race.

    Robertson and Sons Violin Shop in Albuquerque will host Ida Kavafian and friends on Aug. 10. This pre-season event will be a perfect occasion to mingle with select festival artists in an intimate setting for a special performance to benefit Music from Angel Fire followed by a reception with the artists.

    To celebrate the 30th anniversary, Ida Kavafian will be programming 30 favorites from chamber music repertoire and past festival seasons. Music from Angel Fire will commence its season with opening night in Angel Fire on Aug. 16. Closer Encounters on Aug. 16 and 21 will provide the public with an insiders view of rehearsals up close and personal. They will be informal, fun, educational and free. Ida Kavafian will host two enlightening evenings of Musical Conversations at the United Church of Angel Fire on Aug. 18 and 29. The beautiful and historic Shuler Theater in Raton will once again be the setting for the Complimentary Community Concert on Aug. 20, and the Las Vegas concert will be

    held in the Ilfeld Auditorium on the campus of New Mexico Highlands University on Aug. 23. Four exciting concerts will be performed at the Taos Center for the Arts on Aug. 17, 24, 28 and 31. The festivals Salon Concert in Angel Fire will provide experiences from the sublime to the ridiculous. In addition to time-honored musical selections, hilarity will ensue in this crowd-pleasing event, which will be followed by the annual Southwestern Art Auction at the Lodge at Angel Fire Resort on Aug. 25. Music from Angel

    Fire will host a Gala Dinner and Dance Aug. 30 as a part of the 30th anniversary festivities.

    The festival will present a world premiere by the 2013 Composer-in-Residence Chick Corea in Angel Fire, commissioned by Music from Angel Fire and funded in part by the Bruce E. Howden, Jr. American Composers Project. An NEA Jazz Master, 20-time Grammy winner, prolific composer and undisputed keyboard virtuoso Chick Corea has attained living-legend status after four decades of unparalleled creativity and an artistic output that is simply staggering. From straight ahead to avant-garde, bebop to fusion, childrens songs to chamber music, along with some far-reaching forays into symphonic works, Corea has touched an astonishing number of musical bases in his illustrious career while maintaining a standard of excellence that is awe-inspiring.

    Exceptionally talented young artists from the famed Curtis Institute of Music in Philadelphia will broaden their concert experience and repertoire by performing in festival concerts as a part of the Young Artist Program, celebrating its 15th anniversary. The talent of these young artists will also be shared with schoolchildren in more than 30 classroom concerts, demonstrations and interactive lectures in communities across Northern New Mexico though the festivals Music in Our Schools program.

    For more information and updates on Music from Angel Fire events, visit www.musicfromangelfire.org.

    Music from Angel Fire commissions Chick Corea

    A string ensemble performs at a past Music from Angel Fire event.

  • Summer Enchantment 2013 U 11

  • 12 USummer Enchantment 2013

    Angel Fire Resort is offering more summer activities this year than ever before. Along with new trails at Angel Fire Bike Park, the Resort provides the Zipline Adventure Tour, high-altitude golfing, tennis, stocked fishing lakes, scenic hiking trails, a disc golf course, outdoor movie nights, festivals, fine and al fresco dining establishments and live entertainment for summer guests.

    Zipline tourBack for its second summer, the Angel Fire Zipline

    Adventure Tour is one of the highest-elevation zipline tours in the United States and the first of its kind in New Mexico. The tour connects six multiple ziplines of varying lengths and descents. The adventure begins with an introductory zipline of only 100 feet and works up to the Super Zipline, which carries guests on a 1,600-foot cable 200 feet above the forest floor. The side-by-side cables on the Super Zipline give participants the chance to race each other down the mountain.

    While Angel Fire Resort offers thrill seekers the high-elevation segments that start at the 10,600-foot

    summit, it also offers milder courses for younger families or anyone looking to zipline for the very first time. While there are no age restrictions, participants must weigh 100 to 270 pounds to participate. Pricing starts at $105 per rider. Reservations began in April, with the zipline scheduled to open May 17.

    Bike parkAngel Fire Resort now offers 50 miles of new and

    enhanced trails for riders of all abilities. In an effort to appeal to the beginner and intermediate rider, the Angel Fire Bike Park has expanded and reworked the trails so beginners will have a safe and controlled environment to learn the sport, improve their basic skills and fine-tune the right technique for difficult sections. The bike park also boasts the longest season in the Rockies with all trails open from May 17 to Oct. 27, offering riders 108 days of riding, weather permitting.

    This year, riders will experience the expansion along the backside of the mountain with the new Enduro Trails. Simply take the lift up and enjoy the scenic surroundings and biking opportunities on the

    Angel Fire Resort offers more summer funPictured from left are the Angel Fire Bike Park, Angel Fire Resort tennis courts and Angel Fire Zipline Adventure Tour.

    SEE RESORT ON PAGE 14

    Photo courtesy of Atmosphere Photos

  • 14 USummer Enchantment 2013

    backside and either download or choose a plethora of trails to descend down the front. Daily passes start at $30, and a Summer Gravity Pass that allows unlimited lift access all summer long is available for $250. The bike park also offers full rentals and lessons for those trying out the sport for the first time. For more information go to www.angelfirebikepark.com.

    Golf course Situated at 8,600 feet in elevation, Angel Fire

    Resorts high-altitude, 18-hole PGA Championship golf course offers affordable play to guests and its members. Widely regarded as one of the most stunning in the West, the course is tucked beneath the imposing Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The course has undergone some recent renovations, including improvements to the 10th green complex and the driving range.

    Don Willingham, from Granbury, Texas will observe his second year at Angel Fire Resort as the director of golf. Willingham has been a PGA member since 1980 and brings on a wealth of experience from several clubs over the years as the director of golf and director of instruction.

    This summer, Willingham will manage the golf operation and is starting a new golf school at Angel Fire Country Club for all types of players. It will be geared to grow the game with two to four-day golf packages for golfers new to the game as well as those highly skilled players who want to take their game to the next level.

    In addition, the high elevation provides golfers relief from the summer heat and some serious extra distance on their drives, and all starting for $59 a round, including shared cart. The course was scheduled to open May 10, weather permitting.

    TennisLocated at Olympic Park just

    south of the Lodge at Angel Fire Resort on U.S. 434, the Angel Fire Resort Tennis Center includes six hard courts for use by Resort members, guests and visitors to the Moreno Valley. The Tennis Center is open May 1 through Oct. 31, from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Clinics, lessons, tournaments and weekly play are all available. Youth Tennis Camps will also be offered July 8-11, July 22-25 and Aug. 5-8. Adult Camps will be offered June 29-30 and July 27-28.

    Fine diningWith views of Wheeler Peak,

    the tallest point in New Mexico, the clubhouse provides state-

    of-the-art golf and membership amenities. The many features of the Angel Fire Resort Golf and Country Club include a full-service golf shop with an on-staff PGA pro instructor, a modern fitness center with yoga room, a private wine room with storage for more than 2,000 bottles, an upscale fine dining restaurant, an elegant and lively bar, an outside summer dining patio, the downstairs Par & Grill Caf offering lighter fare and patio dining, a 5,200 square-foot Grand Hall for large meetings and events, an indoor swimming pool, concierge services and more.

    Outdoor moviesAngel Fire Resort offers a wide range of special

    summer events, including the popular Movies Under the Stars taking place every Friday night through the month of July. The movie, parking and popcorn are all free. Movies start at dusk and are weather contingent. For a complete list of the movies, go to www.angelfireresort.com.

    Summer specialsThe Lodge at Angel Fire Resort is located at the base of

    the mountain and has undergone an extensive makeover, now offering 121 rooms and 24 family-style suites with updated amenities. The Lodge also offers free Wi-Fi, an indoor pool, hot tub and a fitness center.s:IPLINE0ACKAGE4WOPEOPLEONENIGHTSLODGINGTWO

    zipline tours for $132.50 per person per night, plus taxes and fees.s3TAY2IDE4WOPEOPLEONENIGHTSLODGINGTWO

    one-day lift passes for $69 per person, plus taxes and fees.s'OLF3TAYAND0LAY0ACKAGE4WOPEOPLEONENIGHTS

    lodging, two rounds of golf and one complimentary golf cart for $199 per night, plus taxes and fees.s&ORINFORMATIONONTHESEANDALLOTHEREVENTSAND

    summer activities, contact Angel Fire Resort at 800-633-7463 or visit www.angelfireresort.com.

    RESORT FROM PAGE 12

    Boating on Monte Verde Lake.

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    6 Plate and place beans, rice guacamole and toppings around the dish. Let sit for a few minutes and enjoy.

    5 Place back in pre-heated oven until top cheese is melted.

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  • 18 USummer Enchantment 2013

    Constructed in 1971, the Vietnam memorial north of Angel Fire was the first monument of its kind built in the United States. The staff at the Angel Fire memorial says it even inspired The Wall in Washington, D.C.

    Its founder Dr. Victor Westphall was buried with full military honors yards away from the memorial on a parcel of the Val Verde Ranch that was his home for 35 years.

    Westphall died July 22, 2003, three months shy of his 90th birthday. But his vision lives on at the memorial he and his family created to honor his son Victor David Westphall, 28, who was killed along with 12 of his U.S. Marine comrades May 22, 1968 in Vietnam.

    Westphall and his wife, Jeanne, were discussing what to do with Davids insurance policy when she thought of the Vietnam Veterans Peace and Brotherhood Chapel.

    Santa Fe architect Ted Luna designed the chapel. Westphall then proceeded to build much of it himself while living in a homemade pickup camper on site.

    Three years later, the Westphalls chapel was dedicated May

    22, 1971, 11 years prior to The Wall. Until 1977, the Westphall family relied on their own funds and donations to keep it going.

    The Disabled American Veterans managed the facility from 1982 to 1998, when the DAV relinquished the memorial back to Westphall. Today, it is operated by the New Mexico State Parks with help from the nonprofit David Westphall Veterans Foundation, which relies on fund-raising and the publics generosity for its operating budget.

    In the final moments of the 2004 New Mexico legislative session, legislators approved state acquisition of the memorial a dream Dr. Westphall had pursued in hopes of securing the memorials future. Continuing the dream since its beginning, and through Dr. Westphalls dogged leadership, the memorial

    Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park

    Left: Volunteers help preserve the UH-1 Huey helicopter on display at the memorial. Right: The chapel at the memorial is visible from miles away.

  • Summer Enchantment 2013 U 19

    expanded in the past two decades to include an impressive visitor center added in 1986, a Huey helicopter donated by the Army National Guard in 1999, and the bronze sculpture Dear Mom and Dad by Doug Scott added in 2003 on memorial grounds.

    The memorial now hosts thousands of visiting veterans of all wars, their families, as well as visitors who have never known combat nor loss.

    Inside the chapel, heavily-textured walls curve toward a cross surrounded by flowers. Photographs of slain soldiers line

    the walls, including David Westphall and 12 soldiers (rotated monthly from memorial files).

    Next door, the visitor center features pictorial displays, art, sculpture, photos and biographies (written by Dr. Westphall) of killed Vietnam soldiers, a media room running continuous videos on a loop, an upgraded multimedia computer information system with data on all the killed-in-action personnel, video footage and still photos, and an exhibit honoring women killed during the Vietnam War, as well as resource files for getting in touch with comrades and family.

    Left: Volunteers help preserve the UH-1 Huey helicopter on display at the memorial. Right: The chapel at the memorial is visible from miles away.

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  • Enchanted Circle Gateway MuseumAfter years of work and planning, Enchanted Circle Gateway Museum in Eagle Nest opened its doors in April 2010. The museum is full of donated items from around the Enchanted Circle area, from mining lunch pails to gold-panning scales, a burro sawbuck used to load and carry supplies and Native American medicine

    bags and flint arrows. The mission of the volunteer-operated museum is to

    provide educational opportunities and related services by preserving and displaying items reflecting the historical heritage of the mountain towns and villages in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of north central New Mexico. The

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    Summer Enchantment 2013 U 23

    museum also strives to provide interactive educational programs for residents and visitors, as well as a unique destination point of interest and value to visitors.

    Gateway Museum is located at 580 East Therma Drive in Eagle Nest. For information, call 575-377-5978.

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  • 24 USummer Enchantment 2013

    BY ERIC FINCHER

    If you are looking for places to get out and enjoy the outdoors in the Cimarron area, there are a wide range of opportunities in nearby Cimarron Canyon State Park.

    The park lies within the narrow canyon between the villages of Eagle Nest and Cimarron. If you plan to do some hiking in the canyon, there is a $5 day use fee that must be paid if you drive your vehicle into the park. Theres no charge if you walk in.

    There are several trails to chose from, depending

    on how long of a hike you want to take. One of the more popular trails in the park is the Clear Creek Trail. The trail head is about midway through the park. The hike itself is moderate and roughly three miles one way, but the scenery is great, and there are

    several waterfalls along the way. Its very well worth the trek into the forest.

    The trail follows Clear Creek, which meanders up a narrow side canyon. Theres also ample opportunities to view some of the local deer and elk populations, but its wise not to get too close to the wildlife. Also, keep in mind that there are bears and mountain lions in the area. In most cases, they wont bother hikers, but its better to be safe than sorry. Park staff at the park visitor center usually has up-to-date information about bear activity in the park.

    Explore nature on foot inscenic Cimarron Canyon

    Hikers stand at the top of the first waterfall on the Clear Creek Trail.

  • Summer Enchantment 2013 U 25

    The Tolby Creek and Tolby Meadows trails are longer than the Clear Creek Trail (about 14 miles round trip), but theyre also scenic. Basically, Tolby Creek Trail is an old logging road, so its pretty rocky. But if youre looking for something to do on a Sunday, Tolby Creek Trail is an excellent way to do spend some time in the outdoors. The trail follows Tolby Creek, and like Clear Creek, I suggest setting a half day aside for this hike. The trail head is located across from the Tolby Campgrounds in Cimarron Canyon State Park.

    Would-be hikers should know and understand their limits before venturing into the back-country. Spend a little time planing your hike, and make sure you carry plenty of water when go on your hikes. There are several other trails to explore in Cimarron Canyon State Park. Trail maps are available in the visitor center, which is located at the Tolby Campground.

    Camping in the parkThere are five classes of camps

    within Cimarron Canyon State Park. The first is a primitive campsite.

    Primitive basically means that you set up your tent and thats it. The site has no amenities at all. A primitive site will run you $8 per night.

    The next kind of camp is a developed campsite, which means there are usually rest rooms, grills and picnic tables nearby. A developed campsite will run about $10 per night.

    There are also developed campsites with electric or sewage connections. Those sites are $14 per night.

    The classiest of the campsites are the developed sites with sewage and electric hookups, for those who camp in luxury or in 45-foot motor homes with satellite TV. A developed campsite with sewer and electric connections will cost you $18 per night. But thats much cheaper than a hotel nights stay in most cases. Some sites also have water hookups.

    Hikers cross one of the wooden plank bridges on Clear Creek Trail.

    The Clear Creek Trail head is marked by a log with water flowing through it.

  • 28 USummer Enchantment 2013

    BY ERIC HEINZ

    Theres a reason the hiking trails around Red River are some of the most popular in New Mexico. You can find many of the trails on your own, though the Red River Community House also offers free guided hiking tours every day. The hikes vary from easy to more challenging routes.

    Kaye Wendell, organizer with the Community House, said the organization has planned more treks for this summer season.

    We do a hike every day, and so on Sunday we do a history hike, which is a walk around town where we tell about the historic sites around town, and thats about one and a half to two hours, Wendell said. Monday we do a nature hike, and thats about two hours, and we just go out and explore the flowers and the rocks and the land formations, which is also on

    the nature trail that starts at the ski area and runs along the river.

    Certain trails are for more experienced hikers. Tuesday is Middle Fork, and thats a more

    advanced hike two miles up and two miles back, Wendell said. On Wednesday we do a geocaching

    Experts oer free guided hike tours

    Hikers travel some of the trails in the Red River area.

  • Hikers travel some of the trails in the Red River area.

    Photo by Geraint Smith

    Summer Enchantment 2013 U 29

    hike. That lasts about two hours as well, and they learn how to use geocahce navigation to find four to five caches around town.

    Conservation also is an important aspect of the hikes, Wendell said. Thursday is a leave-no-trace hike in which Community House personnel teach how to leave as little mark as possible in the forest areas.

    There is a flower hike on Friday around the area, but the Saturday and weekend hikes are really where the physical challenges begin.

    We throw in other hikes, and it really just depends on the person leading the hike and where they want to go, Wendell said, adding that the weekend hikes can take about three to five hours. The Saturday hikes are little more advanced.

    Most prominent on the hikes are the beautiful and different types of trees and the wildlife, Wendell said, as well as the scenery, beautiful lakes and rivers, not to mention the people you can meet in the group.

    They need to bring water, they need to wear sunscreen, sturdy shoes, rain gear and a hat is always good. Some people will bring walking sticks and snacks, Wendell said.

    The size of the group can vary from two or three people to 40. The groups usually have about 15-20 people, Wendell said.

    I kind of like going up to Flagg Mountain, just right above Red River, she said. Its a pretty steep hike, but the views are incredible, and its very short. I love the Columbine and Middle Fork trails. When you get there (Middle Fork), theres a beautiful lake.

    Wendell said bighorn sheep are abundant in the Latir Peak region, where there are many trails to explore.

    For more information about hiking in the area, visit www.fs.usda.gov/main/carson/home or visit www.redrivercommunityhouse.org.

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  • BY ERIC HEINZ

    Popular with many people who frequent the area, the trails and roads around Carson National Forest in the Questa Ranger District adjacent to Red River have been a tourism fixture for years.

    Since most of the off-road trails are under U.S. National Forest Service jurisdiction, it is important to know which roads are accessible for the appropriate vehicles.

    Many of the all-terrain vehicle (ATV) and motorized vehicle access trails can be found at the Carson National Forest website at www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MEDIA/stelprdb5380827.pdf. Some of the trails are open to highway-legal vehicles only, vehicles with a 50-inch width or less, and some are open only to motorcycles, according to the forest services documents. Seasonal operation of the trails also can be found on the website.

    Within Red River, there are a few tour guide businesses that offer jeep, ATV or both kinds of experiences through the intravenous forest thoroughfares.

    Tennessee Garner, Sitzmark Sports assistant manager, said he does the booking for some of the off-road businesses in the area. Garner said he has experienced many of the popular trails in the Red River area.

    The main jeep tour and four-wheeler trails are up to Greene Peak and Midnight Meadows, Garner said. Some tours will go up Pioneer Canyon, and Goose Lake is one of the more popular visits.

    Garner said Bobcat Pass Wilderness Adventures provides ATV tours during the season over Bobcat Pass and the old

    Red River Pass. The company also does tours through Fourth of July Canyon, and then theres a motorcycle loop that connects Goose Lake Trail to Pioneer Road. Then theres Mallette Canyon and a lot of other trails Like Elephant Rock and Cabresto Canyon, he added.

    Garner said its possible to see many beautiful views and old mines as well as local wildlife such as wild turkey, elk, deer, and even bears and mountain lions.

    Gary Swinford, manager of and driver with Red River Offroad,

    30 USummer Enchantment 2013

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    works for the companys owner James Woodruff. Swinford said when traveling some of the roads in the area alone, it is best to have a vehicle that can withstand the arduous grades and undulations.

    The older Jeeps dont make it up there (Goose Lake) that well, Swinford said. The best thing going is to have something thats fuel-injected with an electronic ignition, which we take so for granted. The electronics will adjust themselves when theyre going up.

    Another factor is to have good clearance or lift on an off-road vehicle so damage isnt done to the body or the frame.

    The biggest thing is to have something thats elevated, Swinford said. When you bounce down onto something, that can really screw things up.

    Swinford said some of the major attractions on the trails include being able to see mountains as far as Santa Fe, and the company recites the history of the old mining buildings and historic remains from the early settling days.

    We take our time, and its about four hours all the way to goose, Swinford said. I stop at the mining camp, just to talk to (the visitors) and guide them. People go out and look at the buildings, asking What is it exactly? I spend a good 7-8 minutes on each site talking about the context and history of the trails.

    There are also businesses in the Red River area that offer off-road vehicle rentals. Most of the time, people need to be 25 years or older in order to rent.

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  • 36 USummer Enchantment 2013

    BY JESSE CHANEY

    Striking as it may be, the view of the Wheeler Peak Mountain Range from my living room window isnt enough for me. After watching the blood-red sunsets above the highest point in New Mexico every day during the year after I moved to Eagle Nest, I had to get up there.

    An experienced backpacker from Pagosa Springs, Colo., my brother Jarrett planned the June 2012 hike up the 13,161-foot peak.

    After considering that I spend most of my time in an office chair and outweigh him by a good 30 pounds or so, Jarrett decided we ought to take Wheeler Peak Trail 90 up the mountain. This is not the only way to get to Wheeler Peak, but it spreads the 3,760-foot elevation gain over 7.3 miles for a less steep hike.

    We started at the Twinning Campground parking lot at Taos Ski Valley. To get there from Taos, drive north on U.S. Highway 64, turn east on N.M. Highway 150 toward Taos Ski Valley and proceed to the upper parking lot.

    We got to the trail head at about 1 p.m., though starting that late in the day was probably a bad idea. Had an afternoon thunder storm rolled in that day, we would have had a horrifically long run from the ridge back down to treeline to avoid being struck by lightning.

    The first portion of the trail follows a rocky road along the Carson National Forest boundary to the Bull-of-the-Woods pasture, where the trail intersects with Gold Hill Trail. That trail leads to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain and then dips back down into the La Cal Basin, where we came across several people camping along the creek.

    The initial ascent was relatively steep and fairly crowded, but wide enough to easily walk by other hikers or allow them to pass. The crowd tapered

    Be the tallest thing in New Mexico:

    Hike Wheeler Peak

    Jarrett Chaney starts his ascent up Mount Walter.

    Bighorn sheep graze near the summit of Mount Walter.

    A marmot begs for scraps at the summit of Wheeler Peak.

  • Summer Enchantment 2013 U 37

    off after a mile or two, and much of the hike was at or above timberline after we hit Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

    This portion of the trail offers panoramic views of Taos Ski Valley to the west and Red Rivers Upper Valley to the east, with Horseshoe Lake in clear sight below.

    From the La Cal Basin, we started our final ascent up Wheeler Peak. Much of this portion of the trail followed the ridge of the mountain range, where we came across several bighorn sheep and other wildlife. By this point, the trail was much less populated than before.

    If you decide to take this route, dont let the rock pile and other markers at the top of Mount Walter throw you off. Its still another half mile uphill to Wheeler Peak.

    In The Hikers Guide to the Enchanted Circle, former Angel Fire resident Kathy Kalen describes Trail 90 as long but only moderately steep.

    The views of the whole wide world are magnificent! she wrote in the book.

    When we finally reached the summit, I sprawled out on a rock pile arranged in a semicircle, which was surprisingly comfortable after walking seven miles uphill. We spent about a half hour at the top, where I signed the guest book and downed several Honey Buns as I caught my breath. We were accompanied by a large colony of marmots begging for scraps and the few other hikers who made it to the top.

    When I had the strength to stand again, I was the tallest thing in New Mexico.

    We opted to take Williams Lake Trail 62 back down the mountain. This route was less than half as long but more than twice as steep as the way we came up.

    From the parking lot below, this trail officially ends at Williams Lake. But it connects to a series of

    switchbacks that took us from the summit straight down the face of the mountain above the lake.

    We encountered a few people coming up the same trail, but most of them looked like they regretted it. If you have bad knees, I would recommend a different route.

    Kalen describes Trail 62 as a killer, with much of it

    through loose scree fields as it ascends steeply up into a saddle just north of Wheeler Peak. Jarrett also noted that a giant rock slide could have cut lose on that thing at any time.

    The trail did offer a quick way down the mountain, however, and we had the opportunity to see more sheep and a variety of wildflowers along the way.

    SEE WHEELER ON PAGE 40

    Jesse Chaney at the summit of Wheeler Peak.

    A panoramic view from the top of Wheeler Peak.

  • The Williams Lake Trail ends at the Bavarian Lodge, which was convenient for us because we reached the bottom at about 6 p.m. Most of the restaurants menu was a little pricey for our taste, though a $12 plate of sptzle (Bavarian pasta) and a $6.50 mug of Spaten lager hit the spot after a long days hike.

    Jarrett left his mountain bike at the Bavarian so he

    could ride back down to the Twinning Campground parking lot to retrieve the car.

    Kalen recommends that all hikers go with a partner, get a weather report, bring good rain pants, a rain jacket, a wool sweater, gloves and a cap, and allow one hour for every two miles plus one hour for every 1,000-foot elevation gain on any hike. She also wrote that hikers should stay off exposed ridges and peaks during storms, take a compass and maps and refrain from

    drinking water from lakes, rivers and streams. Of course, hikers will also need plenty of food and

    water. For more information on hiking Wheeler Peak or

    other parts of Northern New Mexico, visit the Moreno Valley Trekkers website at http://home.earthlink.net/~mvtrekkers/Index.htm or pick up a copy of Kalens book at Mudd-N-Flood Mountain Shop or Moby Dickens book store in Taos.

    WHEELER FROM PAGE 37

    40 USummer Enchantment 2013

    Jarrett Chaney hikes down the switchbacks on the unofficial extension of the Williams Lake Trail, which connects the lake to Wheeler Peak.

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    Weve made many improvements over the past 12 years since we assumed the position as stewards and ambassadors of Ojo in 2000, said Andy Scott, Ojos owner and general manger. These improvements are ongoing as is our commitment to preserving, honoring and enriching the unique character and essence of this very special place.

    Scott also said Ojo is making every effort to schedule these projects during less-busy times to

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    Summer Enchantment 2013 U 41

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    The private kiva pool at Ojo Caliente. (Photo courtesy of Ojo Caliente)

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    in order to maintain the tranquil setting many of its guests enjoy. In an effort to accommodate guests who are inclined to be more social within Ojos calm environment, there will be a separate area with a more relaxed noise policy around the large pool and new mud area. This area will include new landscaping, which will aid in creating a sound barrier. Whisper zones will be maintained throughout the remainder of the springs and spa areas for guests who prefer to be undisturbed in the relaxing, peaceful and quiet setting that this sacred place is known to provide. The whisper zone includes the iron and soda pools, cliffside pools, new lithia pool, private outdoor pools and the kiva pool available to guests lodging in the resorts suites.

    The expansion of the historic bathhouse will enlarge the mens changing area, creating space for the addition of more lockers and mens swimsuit spinners. The original bathhouse was first built in 1868 and is one of three buildings at Ojo (including the historic hotel built in 1916 and the adobe Round Barn built in 1924) listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.

    A new mud area is being created in front of the main bathhouse near the large pool, with the intention of it being open year-round. The mud area will be heated geothermally, which will make the clay more soothing to the skin. The new location will also receive more sun exposure, allowing the Ojo blend of clay to dry better on the skin.

    Ojo has received overwhelming feedback from guests to bring its sacred lithia water back into use after the lithia pump stopped working in 2011. To that end, the existing mud pool will be converted

    OJO CALIENTE FROM PAGE 41

    Rock cliffs tower above one of the pools at Ojo Caliente. (Photo courtesy of Ojo Caliente)

  • Summer Enchantment 2013 U 47

    into a lithia pool enhanced with patio ramadas, additional hammocks and expanded seating.

    A remodel of the main bathhouse is scheduled for winter 2013-14, with plans to add new mens and womens spa guest changing facilities with a waiting area, plus a new steam room and sauna for all guests, and 12 newly remodeled treatment rooms.

    The resort is located off U.S. 285 about 40 miles west of Taos. For information or directions, call 800-222-9162 or visit www.ojospa.com.

    Rock cliffs tower above one of the pools at Ojo Caliente. (Photo courtesy of Ojo Caliente)

  • BY ERIC FINCHER

    There are many fabulous areas to hike in the Land of Enchantment, but the Wild Rivers Recreation Area near Cerro is one that must be experienced to be appreciated. The primary geologic feature of the recreation area is the upper

    Rio Grande Gorge, which looks like a giant tear in the Earths crust, exposing the layers beneath. The recreation area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and is public land. But before venturing into the area, visitors should be aware that there are certain rules that need to be observed.

    If you plan to do some camping, you have to get a day-use permit, and they can be purchased at the visitors center in the recreation area. Also, camping is only permitted in designated camping areas. Also, according to the BLM, fires must be contained in grills or fire pans. Keep in mind this is the case if there are no fire restrictions in place. If restrictions are in place, fires will most likely be prohibited. The motto leave it how you found it is the rule of thumb. So everything you brought with you when you arrived needs to leave when you go.

    Hiking in the recreation area is very popular. Just be aware that there are things to consider before starting your trek.

    There are several trails of varying difficulty that are located within the recreation area. But would-be hikers should be aware of their abilities and their level of fitness. Some of the trails are on level ground while others are steep and strewn with large, loose rocks. Most of the trails that go down into the gorge are of the latter variety.

    However, if an adventure suits your fancy, a trek into the gorge might be what youre looking for. Trails into the gorge are christened with names like, Little Arsenic Springs, Sheep Crossing, Miners Trail, and Chiflo Trail.

    Views while descending into the gorge are spectacular to say the least. Your senses are flooded with pure air, abundant flora and fauna,

    as well as the tranquility of the subtle sounds courtesy of the surrounding wilderness.

    The 800-foot-deep gorge creates a unique environment, teeming with diversity in plant and animal life, so keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. The area is full of everything from small snakes and lizards to small mammals to mountain lions. I have to admit, Ive hiked in the area many times and am yet to see any large predatory animals such as mountain lions, but that certainly doesnt mean they arent roaming the area. Wildlife-viewing opportunities include mule deer, red-tailed hawk, mountain blue-bird, and the ever present prairie dog. Some of the ancient pinyon and juniper forests are home to 500-year-old trees.

    There are some 22 developed campsites along the gorge rim, and there are four trails that access 16 designated primitive river campsites.

    Although there are many hiking options to get to the canyon floor, Im going to keep it limited to day hikes. Most importantly, hikers should also make sure they plan accordingly as to how long the hike may take. If its getting late in the day and you dont plan on doing any camping, it might be wise to postpone your hike until the following day. That way you can get an early start.

    On my adventure into the gorge, I ventured down Little Arsenic Springs Trail, which is a little less than one mile, one way. The BLM rates the trail moderate to difficult, and it drops about 760 feet from rim to river. But if you dont want to expend that kind of energy, there are several trails that are more level. The River Trail is a little over 2.5 miles long one way, and theres only a slight change in elevation. The BLM rates the trail moderate to easy. The Amigos Bravos Trail is also rated as easy and is about a quarter of a mile one way, and it is level.

    If you dont want to venture into the gorge, the Guadalupe Mountain Trail might be the one for you. Theres an increase in elevation of about 1,000 feet, and the trail is two miles one way. The BLM rates the trail as moderate, but it offers breathtaking views of the Taos Plateau. All of the trails have makers that mark the trail head, so finding them is simple.

    Hikers should make sure they keep a close eye on the weather, because conditions can change quickly. Its wise to have rain gear in your daypack, and I think its also a good idea to dress in layers because temperatures on the gorge floor can be a few degrees warmer than at the rim in the summer. Since the Rio Grande is supplied by snow melt, the water can be very cold, even in the warmer summer months.

    The hike down into the gorge is an excellent way to burn off some calories in a pristine environment. Plant life ranges from small cacti and grasses to towering ponderosa pines. The trails are just that: trails. And in some spots they are very steep not so steep that one

    Wild Rivers Recreation Area

    48 USummer Enchantment 2013

    SEE WILD RIVERS ON PAGE 51 Mail to: The Chronicle, P.O. Drawer 209, Angel Fire, New Mexico 87710,call: 575-377-2358 (visa/mc), fax: 575-377-2679 or e-mail: [email protected]

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    Beautiful scenery abounds in the Wild Rivers Recreation Area.

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    would need climbing gear, but in some spots I wished I had brought my rock-climbing gear. Additionally, I recommend a good, sturdy pair of high-top hiking boots. I, for one, have weak ankles, so stepping on a loose rock that shifts because of weight being applied can easily cause me injury. High-top hiking boots lessen the risk of ankle injures. But you still have to watch where you step, as many of the rocks are large and loose. Its best to take your time. The gorge is beautiful and theres so much to see.

    Once you make it down to the river, there are several springs along the river, some hot and some cold. None of the springs are hot in the recreation area. But the BLM doesnt recommend swimming or tubing because of swift currents and cold water temperatures. Public nudity is not allowed in the recreation areas. Sorry, folks.

    Anglers will have it a bit easier, as fishing is permitted throughout the gorge. But anglers age 12 and older must have a valid license as well as a habitat stamp. New Mexicos state fish, the Rio Grande cutthroat trout, is found in some stretches of the Rio Grande. The non-native species are the German brown and rainbow trout, as well as the northern pike. Fishing regulations are available in the visitor centers.

    If birding is more your fancy, there are many spices of birds that travel though the Rio Grande Gorge. Migratory birds pass through the area, moving from their breeding grounds and their wintering grounds. But the in the summer, visitors can view mallards, as well as great blue herons that are in the area.

    GeologyThe Rio Grande meanders some 1,885 miles from the mountains of

    southern Colorado and north-central New Mexico in the north to the Gulf of Mexico in the south. In Northern New Mexico, the river flows through Taos volcanic plateau, which lies just west of the town of Taos. The recreation area is open year-round, but facilities are limited in the winter months.

    The gorge is the result of volcanic activity in the area and was formed by movement between the North American and Pacific tectonic plates. For you geologists, there are all kinds of volcanic rocks in the area. Many of the black rocks that line the river are basalt, which was deposited by basaltic magma. Technically, the gorge isnt a gorge at all its a rift. Its worth it to slow down and look at some of the rocks along the river and the trails. The Taos Volcanic Field is the largest volcanic field within the Rio Grande Rift and is geologically diverse. According to the New Mexico Natural History Museum, geologic compositions range from tholeiite to rhyolite, as well as volcanic vents to cinder cones and steep-sided dome-like volcanoes.

    VisitingThere is a $3 day-use fee per vehicle to use the area for 30 minutes

    or more. But an annual day-use pass, good for the calendar year, is available for $20. There is a $7 per night pass per vehicle, and a $10 fee for two. The max is two vehicles per site and 10 people per site. Additional vehicles can park in day-use parking areas at $3 per day. Park hours are from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. An overnight camping fee will be required for anyone choosing to remain in the recreation area after day-use hours. Park staff asks that visitors observe quiet hours from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., and that noise levels on radios should be kept to minimum to not disturb others. For more information on activities and geology of the gorge, visit http://www.blm.gov., or call 575-586-1150. The Wild Rivers Recreation Area is located 35 miles north of Taos: take Highway 522 to NM 378.

    WILD RIVERS FROM PAGE 48

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