sport diver getaways

GreatThe

Getaway

getawaysYour Ticket to adventure and travel Around the Diving World

Cayman Islandsexploring the cayman islands

— little, brac and grand

weightless A branching vase sponge lures a diver to a Cayman wall.

It’s finally here — the week I’ve been waiting for. I have left behind e-mails and meetings and returned to the real reason I work for a dive magazine — the water.

The second I hit the hotel room, swing open the door to the balcony and breathe in the fresh ocean air I feel my feet reject my shoes. All I want to do is dive. By day’s end, I am giant-striding off a swim platform, my eyes on a watercolor horizon. When I’m finally submerged, my gear fits like a fa-vorite pair of jeans and the coral looks brighter and bigger than ever. Sharks, eels, barracudas and rays all come out to say hello. After a few dives, I’ve officially turned “blue.” I have dive fever and if there is a cure for the condition, I don’t want to know about it.

In no time I’m sporting a bronze glow and a lazy stroll. Life would be perfect if we could do this every month. Luck-ily, the three islands that make up this Caribbean nation are a short flight from most U.S. gateways — and in my case, the drive to the airport takes longer than the flight. When I want to make the most of those precious diving days away from work, the Cayman Islands are my go-to destination. And it is always a trip to remember. c

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78 May 2007 sportdiver.com padi.com May 2007 79

story by tara bradley

sportdiver.com80 May 2007

sport diver getaways

Shoeless Shorescayman Brac

when the road ends you’ll find a rocky beach spreading out to the end of

the island,” the sunny lady at the front desk of Brac Reef Beach Resort tells me. “That’s where it is: Shoe Rock.” She then explains the legend of Shoe Rock. Along the shore-line are shoes. If you find one, make a wish and throw it at the rock (which shouldn’t be hard to find as it is covered in shoes). If the shoe sticks, your wish will come true — yet why the shoes actually stick seems to be as much a mystery as why they are there in the first place.

Never one to pass up a chance to make a wish (or to look for shoes), I drive toward the southeast corner of Cayman Brac.

My bare feet stumble on the rocky shore until I find the perfect walking stick — just my size. The sun peeks from behind a cloud and exposes mismatched shoes scat-tered along the beach. I wonder how far they have traveled and whose feet they have adorned. I think how amazed I would be to find the single red flip-flop I lost a few years ago on Grand Cayman. I look up and a few

yards away, decorated like a Christmas tree, is Shoe Rock. Just then, I see it — a lone sun-bleached red flip-flop hidden by the shade of a large rock, and just my size. I gape in disbelief and pick it up. As I make my wish, I throw it to the top of the rock and watch as it tumbles down, joining the pile of rejected aspirations at the bottom. Sadly, its luck must have worn out. It did travel all the way from Grand Cayman, 90 miles away.

Cayman Brac is not the smallest or the largest of the Cayman Islands, but the middle child. It is one of the Sister Islands and less than a five-minute flight from Little Cayman. Like many middle children, it shares the manners of its siblings, having the calm of Little and the lights of Grand. And although the islands may be different, their common thread is the water that surrounds them.

That water is why I’m here. Divers in the know have flocked to the Brac for years — evident from the high rate of return cus-tomers found on the dock of PADI Dive Cen-ter Reef Divers the next morning. We watch as the melon-colored sun climbs up the hori-zon and divemasters Donnie and Chris prep the morning boat. To the sound of clanging tanks, we board their 46-foot Newton called Little Sister and take our places next to our

gear — already set up. Gear is the last of our worries as Reef Divers provides what they call a “valet diving experience” — perfect for divers who don’t like carrying their gear, or cleaning it … or setting it up. Basically they do everything for you but breathe.

At our first dive site, Public Beach, my dive buddy Scott and I have already figured out our dive plan: a deep wall followed by a search for swim-throughs. On our way to the wall, a small purple anemone pulses inside a crevice of the coral, like a wind-snatched scarf. Ahead I see the dark secret of a swim-through and the promise of the wall. As Scott and I fin through the passage, a hermit crab couple slowly moves, giving away their dis-guise. We slip out onto the wall and hover wide-eyed in the open abyss. Making our

way down, we find light at the end of a crev-ice, calling us to shallower water. As we make our way through, holes in the coral give fleet-ing glimpses of fish and sea fans — making me wonder what I’m missing on the other side of the underwater fence.

In a way, I get to find out. A short boat

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A View From the Top From spot Bay, follow the signs to light-house road and take the historic steps to the top of the bluff. note: it takes three hours, but the experience is well worth the walk.

1. Public Beach2. sergeant Major Wall3. Bert Brothers Boulders4. Mv Captain Keith Tibbetts5. Bluff Wall

vanilla sky left: sunrise at Brac Reef Beach Resort. above: tube sponges on the Cayman Mariner.

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ride takes us to Sergeant Major, our second dive site. This time Scott and I have decided to focus strictly on the little stuff … and the swim-throughs. Peterson cleaning shrimp frantically clean an anemone as the first of what will be three stingrays skirt my periph-eral vision. A hogfish rises over the peak of a giant coral head while below a massive lob-ster reaches its antenna out of its small lair. Sponges with the intricate designs of fine linen decorate the sea floor, and nearby a large grouper and a few parrotfish primp at a cleaning station as if preparing for a night on the town. When I stare long enough at the bright yellow tube sponges, their wrinkles

and ripples start to resemble faces like the trees in The Wizard of Oz. And as we ascend, the top of the reef is clouded by a school of horse-eye jacks blissfully circling each other — the perfect safety stop.

Before the sun goes down on my last day, I take a final drive around the island. Caves and flowers line the roads like topside swim-throughs and colorful coral. And like the dark recesses I’ve found so plentiful on the dives here, the caves have the same draw — begging me to enter.

Along the way I stop to see Garlon — a born and bred Bracker — whom I met my first day on-island. He is blessed with a face

drawn by decades of good stories, lots of laughter and Cayman sunshine. As I take a seat next to him, I have the feeling I’m sit-ting next to my grandfather — a man filled with stories from “back when.” Upon talk-ing with a local woman, I have discovered Garlon’s former profession — which he conveniently has repeatedly forgotten to mention. And when I tease him about it, the former district commissioner for the Sister Islands, answers with a feeble smile. As with many Caymanians, boasting is not part of his repertoire.

As the day comes to an end, I say goodbye to Garlon and make my final way

westward toward BRBR. Neighbors visit on front porches as their faithful pets nap at their shoeless feet. As the sun falls, the dust slowly settles on the empty road. A young girl in a pale pink shirt sits alone on the front step of her similarly colored pink house. The shades of dusk emphasize the warm hues as she looks down the road. She notices me in the distance and in Caymanian style gives a friendly wave. Smiling, I wave back — a sim-ple way to end a simple day. As I drive down the road, I can see her in the distance, still waving goodbye — just like an old friend.

the reef has eyes left: stare too long and wrinkling faces appear in the tube sponges. above: An arrow crab sits pretty in its azure-vase-sponge home.

Brac Reef Beach Resortfast facts Five-star padi gold palm dive center >> modern fleet of custom-designed newtons >> “valet” diving >> rinse tank/gear storage area on premises >> snorkeling >> the palms restaurant >> the tipsy turtle pub >> beach and pool access

800-594-0843sportdiver.com/bracreef

foR MoRe infoRMAtion

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padi.com May 2007 85

Wall Magiclittle cayman

it is evening and the beach at Little Cay-man Beach Resort is empty. Lazy palms

sway above empty hammocks. The water laps toward me luring me to jump in for an impromptu night dive. I walk toward the shore, and with each sandy step I anticipate a chill. To my surprise, the water wrapping around my ankles is warm. When I look up, the bright stars shine like a spotlight on the sea. Then I notice I am not alone. From the glow of the occasional torch, I can make out the silhouettes of divers moving up the dock. They have returned from a night dive and from the sound of their laughter, it must have been a good one.

Good dives aren’t hard to come by on Little Cayman. Measuring a mere one by 10 miles, the smallest of the three islands is known for its simple life and dynamic div-ing. Columbus sighted the islands in May 1503 when his ship blew off course on his last trip to the New World. And the island hasn’t strayed far from the way he found

it — people and cars are scarce compared to the iguanas and bikes that make up the small amount of daily traffic.

My first morning I take advantage of the unspoken bike-sharing policy and peddle my way down the main — and only — road, which leads to the local market, museum and Red Footed Booby Bird Sanc-tuary — all of which close at dusk. Along the way, small gravel paths lead from the road to the beach, a reminder of the water just a short walk away. And almost meta-phorically, at the end of the main road is

the sandy doorstep to the airport. Topside I have already discovered Little Cayman’s simplicity. And underwater, I’m looking to discover Bloody Bay Wall.

The story goes that a diver named Lea Lea saw a hammerhead and wanted to return to the same site every day to see it. Sadly, it didn’t give her an encore. But the divemasters ended up naming the site af-ter her. So here we are at Lea Lea’s Lookout on Bloody Bay Wall. As I glide through the swim-through that will throw me into the abyss, I look up — something every diver should do at least a half dozen times on a wall dive. As the sunlight pierces down, the basket sponges and sea fans exude a ghostly glow. A large crab hides in a crevice as his super-sized counterpart takes cover in a dark cove farther down the way. The misun-derstood spotted eel opens his mouth like a playful puppet — mimicking a friendly hel-lo. Barrel sponges stand tall like vases in a grand dining room. Not until we surface do I realize that we never saw a hammerhead, but I don’t mind.

On our next dive, we hit the Mead-ows. Because the wall starts shallow, most of the dive sites have the benefit of the dra-matic views of a wall dive in addition to the extended shallow-diving bottom time.

For divers who enjoy exploring swim-throughs, Bloody Bay Wall is diver heaven. The reefs are “Swiss-cheesed” with every type of swim-through imaginable — from the drive-your-bus-through variety to the take-off-your-BC-and-go kind. As I enter

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Get Rhythmafter dinner, take a bike ride down the road to the hungry iguana — the perfect place to dance the night away to anything from salsa to reggae.

1. Lea Lea’s Lookout2. the Meadows3. Coconut Walk4. fisheye fantasy5. Blacktip tunnels

underwater decor above: A large barrel sponge forms the figurehead on the prowl of a Cayman wall. right: A hawksbill turtle, surface-bound.

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GO TO: http://www.caymanislandsrealty.com/ky?get?kycaymanislandsand click on Grand Cayman for detailed reference map

GO TO: http://www.caymanislandsrealty.com/ky?get?kycaymanislandsand click on Little Cayman and Cayman Brac for detailed map

another dark opening looking cautiously for the light at the end of the tunnel, I notice a flamingo tongue (my favorite) hiding under a fallen sea fan. Its pink and black skin is so smooth, it begs to be touched. But I know better and leave it in its secret spot. Nearby, a fireworm curls on a gorgonian fan like a sassy lady in a fancy fur. I watch as she fluffs her cotton-like trim giving me a spicy warning. And although I’m sure she is soft, I avoid the temptation and the burn that would likely follow from her fi-ery sting. As the boat makes its way back to the resort for lunch, we swap stories and share pictures. On the stern, a group takes their semiannual dive-club photo commemorating their last dive of the trip. When they claim the Meadows as their new favorite site on Little Cayman, the bubbly divemaster Annabelle gives them a laugh and a few teases. They’ve obvi-ously said this after every dive she’s taken them on this week. Jokes then fly about an un-named diver who had a habit of losing things all week long — even his shoes. In typical diver fashion, they’ve turned their dive trip into a friendly affair.

Dining at the Bird of Paradise Restau-rant is an event as well. The home-style setting feels like I’m in my best friend’s familiar kitchen — that is, if she lived on an exotic island and owned a dive boat. As the departing dive club continues teasing one of their members, the Pezze family is excitedly talking about how they are going to celebrate their 16th or 17th anniversary

(depending on whom you’re asking). And amid it all, Denvil, one of the chefs, stands tall in his crisp white chef coat making sure everyone is enjoying the food they have so delicately laid out — the spread includes fresh grilled fish, cold iced tea and carrots so sweet they taste like candy. Off to the side an

Top DivesA few favorite wall-dives, swim-throughs and wrecks

grand cayman1. sand chute2. tarpon alley3. Doc Polson4. main street5. snapper hole

little cayman6. lea lea’s lookout7. the meadows8. coconut walk9. Fisheye Fantasy10. Blacktip tunnels

cayman Brac11. public Beach12. sergeant major wall13. Bert Brothers Boulders14. mv Captain Keith Tibbetts15. Bluff wall

Top Restaurantsthe best in island dining

grand cayman italian casanova restaurant Localmyrtle’s restaurantinternational/Caribbeancafé med grand old houseguy harvey’s island grillseaharvest restaurantthe lobster pot

sushiBamboo

little cayman American/Caribbeanhungry iguana

cayman Brac seafood/Americancaptain’s table

Night Lifedrinking, dancing … relaxing

grand cayman Fidel murphy’scoconut joe’s my Barcafé med

little cayman hungry iguana

cayman Brac the tipsy turtle pub

Beachesfrom snorkeling to sleeping

grand cayman seven mile Beach rum point

little cayman point o sand owen island

cayman Brac public Beach long Beach

Hotels/Dive ResortsYour dive-friendly home awayfrom home

grand cayman sunset house/sunset divers sportdiver.com/sunsethouse

divetech at cobalt coast sportdiver.com/cobaltcoastsportdiver.com/divetech

eden rock sportdiver.com/edenrockdive

red sail sports sportdiver.com/redsailsports

ocean Frontiers sportdiver.com/oceanfrontierssportdiver.com/compasspoint

don Foster’s dive cayman sportdiver.com/donfosters

little cayman little cayman Beach resort sportdiver.com/lcbr

southern cross club sportdiver.com/ southerncrossclub

paradise villas sportdiver.com/paradisevillas

conch club divers sportdiver.com/conchclub

the club at little cayman sportdiver.com/tclc

conch club condominiums sportdiver.com/conchclub

cayman Brac Brac reef Beach resortsportdiver.com/brbr

carib sands & Brac caribbean sportdiver.com/caribsands

Don’t Miss/ Local Secretstaking the less-traveled path

Black pearl skate and surf park(grand cayman)Boatswain’s Beach (grand cayman)sunset on the Jolly Roger (grand cayman)Queen elizabeth ii Botanical park (grand cayman)meat patties at the esso station (grand cayman)Booby pond (little cayman)little cayman’s museum (little cayman)Bat cave (cayman Brac)shoe rock (cayman Brac)

Special Thanks to Cayman Air-ways, Sister Islands Tourism Association, Sunset House, Little Cayman Beach Resort and Cay-man Brac Beach Resort.

day at the sPa A grouper relaxes next to a sea fan as he awaits his daily cleaning.

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AREA OF DETAIL

CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC

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george town

stingray cityWest end

• Jackson point

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owen island

CAYMAN BRAC

LITTLE CAYMAN

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carib sands & brac caribbean

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the cayman islands are 150 miles south of cuba and 178 miles north by north-west of Jamaica. like many islands in the caribbean, cayman’s first inhabit-ants were sea turtles, iguanas and … pirates. today the only buccaneers on island are found during pirates Week, a november celebration of nonstop partying that raises money for charity. the islands are a diver’s dream, filled with sheer walls and colorful corals. but the islands also entice those in search of shopping, picture-postcard beaches, and of course, stingray city — home to schools of affectionate southern stingrays. the weather remains in the 80s throughout the year with warm water temps ranging from 77ºF in the winter to 82ºF in the summer. and with underwater visibility of almost always 100-plus feet, it is no wonder the divers keep coming back.

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Doc Polson

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•lighthouse

•shoe rock

•the bluff

Queen elizabeth ii botanical park•

•starfish beach

•red Footed booby bird sanctuary

brac reef beach resort

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array of fluffy cakes — dark chocolate, Key lime and strawberry — tempt the guests. But I can’t help but give in when my eye catches a small sliver of the brightly col-ored strawberry cake.

The sun is signaling the midday heat, and it is time to get back in the water. Before our dive at Coconut Walk, PADI Divemaster Ron draws the site on the whiteboard. We watch in awe as he draws a mess of squiggles suggesting what he says will be a “lot” of fish. While the rest of the group heads along the wall, I stay behind, and just as Ron predict-

ed, a mass of confusion appears before me. Blue chromis, Bermuda chubs and yellowtail snappers dance around each other as if in a tremendous ballroom. Then for some reason, diver intuition hits — something is going to happen. I watch as a barracuda glides in with his long pointed nose held high, showing off his importance and utter power. The intruder attempts a few nibbles on the frantic fish, but with no success. And then just as quickly as he appeared, the barracuda is gone. I look to my right and at the Pezzes, who are excitedly cheering underwater. The dancing fish don’t miss a beat and calmly return to their rou-tine. Just as the yellowtails seem to breathe a sigh of relief, a reef shark slowly starts to

silver curtain silversides join a diver through one of Cayman’s many swim-throughs. right: A golden zoanthid extends its polyps to feed.

Little Cayman Beach Resort fast facts Five-star padi gold palm dive center >> 57 dive sites within protected marine park Zones >> “valet” diving >> freshwater rinse tanks/gear storage avail-able on site >> pool and ocean access >> the nature spa >> free bike rentals >> the Bird of paradise restaurant

800-327-3835sportdiver.com/lcbr


materialize from the deep blue below. First his outline is fuzzy, and then as he gets shal-lower, he comes into view. The fish disperse. I have to hold myself back from darting down to meet him, but I know it would only scare him away. I watch him slowly swim off as the fish cautiously move back into place and my dive comes to and end.

It is one hour before my departure off Little Cayman, and as I take the two-minute drive from LCBR to the airport I have just beaten the “traffic.” Little Cayman’s annual Mardi Gras parade is about to take place, and

the excitement pulsates through the air. Both locals and vacationers are decorated in Mardi Gras beads, balloons and face paint. One float is even holding a wedding ceremony com-plete with a minister, pews and, of course, the happy couple. It is a big day for the little island. And although I am at the airport, I re-alize I’ve got one of the best seats for the show as the parade continues past the airport and down the runway. With only moments left on Little Cayman, I enjoy the perfect finale as the cast of characters disappears down the run-way and into the horizon.

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Down on Main Streetgrand cayman

rumors of a hammerhead stir the air. Divemasters in every bar down Seven

Mile Beach are talking. I’m skeptical — as they say, “no pictures, no proof.” I have been on-island two weeks, and so far I’ve spotted stingrays, eagles rays and tons of turtles. Apparently the hammerhead isn’t as interested in being seen. So of course, my friends and I are on our way to Main Street — her supposed stomping grounds — to find her.

The water is surprisingly still for the North End. With visions of hammerheads dancing in our heads, we swim down the line. We weave through the coral to a swim-

through that takes us down and out — ul-timately opening into the deep. I stare at the open water for so long that a vision of a shark actually begins to materialize from the empty sea. A few times I almost bang on my tank to alert the others. Deciding it best not to cause any false alarms, I move on and slowly swim behind the rest of the group. Along the way, my eyes still seem to have trouble focusing. I blink a few times to make sure I am not imagining things … again. Then there she is — an 11-foot hammerhead gently gliding below me — a real one. As if coming to meet me, she makes her way up the wall. My heart is pounding so hard I can actually hear it. We get closer. Adrenaline is rushing through my veins almost causing me to shake. My mom would kill me if she saw me right now — chasing a hammerhead.

have it allkids sea camp grand cayman

by carolyn Pascal

let’s be selfish for a moment. you’re the parent. you work hard. your time and

vacation dollars are precious and limited. of course, you want the kids to have

the time of their lives and enjoy a family adventure they will cherish forever. But those dive vacations you so fondly recall are starting to look better and better: care-free diving with like-minded adults, and evening hours filled with nothing more than cocktails, a stunning sunset and dining under a starlit sky.

is it possible to have it all? kids and parents? margo peyton believed it absolutely, positively should be and has dedicated the better part of the last 10 years to ensuring it is. she has hand-picked dive resorts that she feels are best suited to this multi-generational diving-related experience.

one such winning formula is on

grand cayman at cobalt coast resort and divetech. together they have customized daily programs for every age group: padi Bubblemaker programs for kids starting at four years old, junior open water certifi-cations for ages 10 and up, and specialty courses for young teens. programs also include visits to Boatswain’s Beach/cay-man turtle Farm, and the much-anticipated pizza and movie night.

parents can schedule daily activi-ties of their choice, whether they want to maximize their bottom time or dive into the duty-free shopping in george town. either way, in the evenings everyone convenes for casual oceanfront dining with both family and kids’ tables. there are new friends and extended families. after the third day, it’s hard to tell the difference.

cobalt coast resort proprietor arie Barendrecht traveled the world in search of his dream spot, and this is it. From sunup to sundown, he quietly ensures that every need

May i have this dance? Residents at north end’s tarpon Alley perform an underwater waltz.ncit prat numqui bla

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is met. his perpetual smile is never broader than when he is engaged with the kids during the beachside treasure hunt or judging the limbo contest with tambourine in hand.

owners and operators of the on-site padi dive center divetech, nancy and jay easter-brook, are equally committed to the vision that kids sea camp is for kids of all ages. their menu of diving activities includes everything from discover scuba and open water certifica-tions, to nitrox, to deep-diving and free-diving specialties. my personal favorite is scooter diving the west Bay express right off shore … there’s nothing like the sun, sea and a scooter to bring back the kid in all of us. whether it be building pirate ships out of pvc piping in

cobalt coast’s freshwater pool, or escorting the group to the world-famous stingray city for some quality family time, the divetech staff leads the way to safe, educational and exciting experiences.

what stands out most about kids sea camp grand cayman is the ease of it all — a simple snapshot of family time that we can look back on, and look forward to repeating year after year. so for at least one week, we all can be a little selfish and unashamed of admit-ting that, yes, we do wish to have it all.

this year’s kids sea camp grand cay-man dates are from july 14-july 21 and july 21-july 28. For more information, visit kids seacamp.com or call 800-934-3483.

ahoy! Young divers line up to walk the plank at Cobalt Coast Resort with divetech.

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And of course, I continue deeper to meet my new friend.

As we get closer, I have the urge to turn around. How close is too close any-ways? I slowly kick forward and try to make my breaths as few and far between as possible. Suddenly, she sees me. And with the flip of her tail, she darts down the wall and out of sight. Breathless, I look up to see if anyone else saw her. Then — as if to let me know they were with me all along — two eagle rays glide overhead. As I make my way to the boat, I give the camera in my hand an extra squeeze, thankful that I have the video to prove it.

I visit the Cayman Islands every chance I get. And Grand Cayman is usu-ally my first stop. It is the biggest of the three islands, measuring a mere 22 by eight miles long. Also the most devel-oped, Grand Cayman is perfect for those who want the island getaway with lots of topside options. You can find a hidden

romantic restaurant like Papagallo’s, get your salsa on at Café Med, watch a quiet sunset on Seven Mile Beach or do non-stop diving just about anywhere. And if you choose the latter, it is a wall-dive lover’s piece of paradise.

Before I even open my eyes the next morning in my room at PADI Five-Star Gold Palm Dive Center Sunset House, I hear the chipper crow of a rooster parad-ing in the courtyard below — the perfect reminder that yes, I’m in Cayman. As I tumble out of bed I am instantly excited. Today Sunset Divers is going to Sand Chute, a dive site resembling an under-water ski slope — and when I’m there, I always feel like I’m flying over a Colo-rado ski resort (minus the lodge).

high in the sky An aerial view of seven Mile Beach on Grand Cayman from one of the best seats in town — a parasail.

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A New Guy in Towndine at guy harvey’s island grill, just opened in george town. with guy being a marine biologist and respected artist, how could the seafood not be good?

1. sand Chute2. tarpon Alley3. Doc Polson4. Main street5. snapper Hole

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Within minutes of waking up, I have to remind myself that I’m not dreaming as I float over the mountaintop. The peak of the sandy summit slopes endlessly into the darkness of the mysterious waters be-low. And below is the kind of deep water that holds unusual creatures with crazy anatomies — bodies built to withstand intense pressure and constant darkness. Critters with senses so sharp they can pinpoint the exact coordinates of their prey without ever being detected. And similarly, something in the deep below

could be sensing my presence. I silently take in the thrill.

Although I might not know what lurks in the depths, from my view the sand sits like powder, and the sun hits my skin as if I were on an actual ski lift. I want to go down the hill and find out where the run ends. I descend the incline and feel the urge to find the bottom — to meet the mysterious creatures with no eyes and built-in headlamps. They can’t be too far away. The temptation of deep waters always gets me. Just then a school

of horse-eye jacks circles above as a quick reminder of my limits. Thankfully, I slowly rise and join them. And after a motionless moment inside their dancing ring, I make my way back to the surface — even farther away from the unknown depths below.

That evening at My Bar — Sunset House’s answer to Cheers — expats, lo-cals and divers enjoy end-of-day drinks with conch fritters and games of who-saw-what against a background of the blue-green lights of a night dive shining up from the house reef. With unlimited shore diving, it seems someone is always underwater here. And when they do dry

off, they come to My Bar to eat, drink, and of course, brag. As the night starts to dwindle, I make my way to my room. And playing the opposing role to the morning’s rooster, the sound of the sea gently lulls me to sleep.

As on any trip’s last day, I go top-side for my requisite drive around the is-land (and have a love/hate moment with my computer, which won’t let me dive before flying). I have made my way up and down Seven Mile Beach throughout the week, so to slow things down I head to the quiet side of Cayman — the East End. It is only a 45-minute drive from my pink corner at Sunset House, and I take

my time. After a quick stop at Chester’s for their homemade sweet fried bread, I continue eastward. The blowholes on my left are a sure sign I’m close. Their sky-high spurts of seawater always lure me to play a quick game of cat and mouse, but no matter how many times I think I have their timing figured out, I usually end

up going back to the car … drenched. This time is no exception. When I finally dry off and hit Rum Point, I contemplate staying for sunset. Since that particular area of the island wraps around to face the West End, you can watch as the sun falls behind the island. The serene silence of this side feels like a vacation from a vacation. I don’t think it could get any calmer than that, making it one of the best places to watch the sun go down. But then again, there really aren’t any bad places to watch it. So, I opt to head back toward the West End and make a stop at Smith’s Cove — one of my per-sonal favorites. And as the sun starts to disappear, I think back to my new friend, the hammerhead, and wonder where she goes for her sunsets.

more on the web: see the hammerhead for your-self; watch the video at sport diver.com/hammerheads.


blue birds A flock of southern sting-rays beat their way to sandbar.

Sunset House/Sunset Diversfast facts Five-star padi gold palm idc >> unlimited shore diving available >> easy access to sunset reef, the most popular shore dive on grand cayman >> cathy church underwater photo centre located on premises >> oceanside pool >> on-site dive lockers/rinse tanks >> my Bar

800-949-7111sportdiver.com/sunsethouse


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