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11/2/2014 1 Soils, Fertilizers and Composting Bill Hlubik Professor, Agricultural and Resource Management Agent RCE, Middlesex County EARTH Center Mt. Washington 5

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Page 1: Soils, Fertilizers and Composting · 2014-11-03 · 11/2/2014 1 Soils, Fertilizers and Composting Bill Hlubik Professor, Agricultural and Resource Management Agent RCE, Middlesex

11/2/2014

1

Soils, Fertilizers and Composting

Bill Hlubik

Professor, Agricultural and Resource Management Agent

RCE, Middlesex County

EARTH Center

Mt. Washington

5

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Causes of poor growth

• Compaction,

inadequate soil

aeration

• moisture,

• adverse climate,

• improper pH,

• nutrient toxicity,

deficiencies,

• Disease, insects

7 8

9

Root Shock – Transplants / Construction

• Transplants need to re-establish root

damage for normal growth

• Plants disturbed by construction within

the past 5 to 10 years may be in shock

and produce limited new foliage.

10

What is soil ?

– a natural body on the surface of the earth in

which plants grow; comprised of mineral and

organic materials and living organisms

– Minerals - Sand, Silt, Clay in varying

proportions

– Soil Micro and Macro Organisms

Physical Characteristics -Texture

• Texture

– Fineness or coarseness of the soil

– Based on the amounts of the three different sized

particles that make up the mineral component

• Sand

• Silt

• Clay

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Relative Size of Soil Separates

University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Plant and Soil Sciences eLibrary, 2005

Sand

12 Textural Classes of Soil

• Based on

percentage of sand,

silt and clay

Using Feel Method to Determine Texture

Feel Method

Topsoil

Subsoil

Parent Material

Soil Profile Soil Profile

• Layers in the soil are

called ‘horizons’

• The upper layer is

called ‘topsoil’

• The middle layer is

called the ‘subsoil’

• The parent material or

bedrock is found below

these layers

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Physical Characteristics

• Soils are

comprised of:

– Solids

• Mineral

component

• Organic

component

– Liquids

• water

– Gases

• ex. O2, CO2

• Infiltration

– Movement of water

into the soil surface

Physical Characteristics –Water Movement in Soil

Physical Characteristics - Tilth

• Tilth or structure is affected by several factors,

including:

– Organic matter, limestone, biological activity

• All increase aggregation or flocculation of

particles

– Sodium

• Decreases aggregation or dispersion of particles

• Tilth is primarily a ‘by-product’ of biological activity

Physical Characteristics - Tilth

Feel Method

Rough = sand

Slick, greasy when wet = clay

Smooth when dry = silt

Falls apart = sand

Stays together, extend far

beyond fingers = clay

Some form but crumbles =

silt

Ribbon Method

Compaction

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• Drainage affects

– Soil drying or moisture holding

– Air flow or gas exchange

– Selection of turf grass species

Physical Characteristics -Drainage

Physical Characteristics -Drainage

• Do a mini ‘perc test’ or percolation test

to determine the internal drainage1. Dig a 12 inch deep hole

2. Fill hole with water

3. Let all of water drain out of hole

4. Fill hole again and measure time for

water to drain out

Physical Characteristics -Drainage

• Evaluate the results. If all of the water

drains out of the hole in:

– 15-30 minutes or less = well drained soil

– 30-45 minutes = moderately drained soil

– Greater than 45 minutes = poorly drained soil

Physical Characteristics -Drainage

• Based on internal and surface drainage,

do the following:

– Choose plant materials appropriate for the

site

– Improve water drainage and percolation

– Irrigate when necessary

– Use mulches to conserve moisture

Physical Characteristics –Compaction

• Compaction

– Physical pressure due to

weight on soil squeezes

out the air space, making

the soil more dense

• Bulk Density

– The weight of dry soil per

unit volume including air

space

Physical Characteristics –Compaction

• Reducing Compaction

– Mechanical aeration

– Tillage

– Organic matter

– Chemically

– Prevention

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Physical Characteristics –Compaction

Images from Turf North, Nov 2005

Physical Characteristics –Compaction

Drainage and Puddling

33

Soils Map of New Jersey

• This map shows the major soil series of NJ

• Note the strong association between the bedrock geology and the soil formed

• Soils differ across geographical regions due to many other factors, not just geology

Local Soils Maps

• Soils types can vary

within a small area

due to many factors

• Natural differences,

erosion, replacement,

building

• Web-based copies may

be found at:

http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.

usda.gov/app/

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Biological Characteristics -Organic Matter

• Benefits:

– Enhances biological activity

– Improves tilth and structure

– Increases porosity and infiltration

– Reduces crusting and erosion

– Increases water holding capacity

– Improves nutrient holding and release

• Cation exchange capacity

– Clay and organic matter involved in cation exchange

Biological Characteristics –Nutrient Availability,

TransformationN transformation

impacted by many

factors including:

• Soil

temperatures

• Soil moisture

• C:N ratio of

amendments

• Microbial

populations

Soil Biological CharacteristicsSoil Biological Indicators

• Soil microorganisms

(fungi and bacteria) and

other fauna (e.g.,

earthworms, insects,

arthropods) influence

the availability of

nutrients for crop

growth by decomposing

soil organic matter and

releasing or

immobilizing plant

nutrients.

42

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43

Trichoderma species

Trichoderma species

45 46

Biological Characteristics -Disease Prevention

• Higher levels of

biological activity and

diversity often lead to

higher levels of

suppression through

various mechanisms

– Pythium and

Phytophthora

– Mycorrhizal fungi

– Springtails and mites

Trichoderma harzianum

Rhizoctonia solani

Fertile, properly managed soils are the foundation for healthy plants.

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Proper management of soils can help reduce plant stress and disease problems while protecting the local environment.

Liebig’s concept of the limiting factor

Increasing level of a

non-limiting factor

will not improve

production

*Other factors that can

be limiting are pH,

light, water,

temperature, etc.

Brady & Weil,

1999

Plant production is constrained by the essential element* (or

other factor) that is most limiting

Soil pH affects

the availability of

some nutrients,

availability/toxicity of

aluminum,

and the activity of

microorganisms.

Brady & Weil, 1999.

Selection of Liming Material• Dolomitic lime (high Mg)

– Use when soil test Mg level is low relative to Ca

• Calcitic lime (high Ca)

– Use when soil test Ca level is low relative to Mg

• Gypsum (calcium sulfate)

– Use when soil pH is high but Ca is needed

Limestone Rate Based onSoil pH and Soil Texture

Pounds of Limestone/1000 ft2 to Raise pH to Desired Level

Change in Soil Texture

Soil pH(initial -> desired)

Sand Loam Clay Loam

4.0 –> 6.5

4.5 –> 6.5

5.0 –> 6.5

5.5 –> 6.5

6.0 –> 6.5

60

50

40

28

14

161

133

105

78

41

230

193

152

106

55

Chemical Characteristics - pH• To increase acidity

– Sulfur (S)

• Elemental sulfur

• Iron sulfate

• Aluminum sulfate

– Acidic organic materials

• Pine needles, peat moss

www.atlanticavenuegarden.com

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Sulfur Needed to IncreaseSoil Acidity to pH 6.5

Pounds of Sulfur/1000 ft2 to Lower pH to Desired Level

Change in Soil Texture

Soil pH(initial -> desired)

Sand Loam Clay Loam

8.5 –> 6.5

8.0 –> 6.5

7.5 –> 6.5

7.0 –> 6.5

46

28

12

2.5

58

35

18

3.5

70

46

23

7.0

Relative nutrient level

• Deficient – plant not achieving genetic capacity– deficiency symptoms, or ‘hidden hunger’

– Management strategy: build up soil test level to increase growth

• Adequate level - at 100% growth potential

– not limiting growth

– Management strategy: maintain soil test level

• Excess level - imbalance or toxicity

– growth decreased

– Mangement strategy: draw down soil test level to reduce excess

Improper management of soils can lead to:

• Poor Yields

• Decreased Profits -$$$$$$

• Increase in Diseases and Pests

• Soil Erosion

• Environmental Problems

Soil Testing

Take multiple, randomly

selected sub-samples from

the area to be tested

6-8”

Parameter Soil Test

Interpretation/Recommendation

Soil pH

Lime req. index (LRI) Need for lime or sulfur and rate

Buffer pH

Ca Balance indicates type of lime

Mg

N Not based on soil test

P Based on soil test level

K Based on soil test level

Micronutrients

(Mn, Cu, Zn, B, Fe)

Based on soil test level and soil pH

Soil Sample

• Results will provide information on:

– soil texture

– soil pH

– soil nutrient levels

– fertilizer and limestone/sulfur

recommendations

• Use it, don’t lose it!

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Soil sample depth depends on crop and

management

Dividing by Plant Type and Landscape Management

Area 1a

Area 4

Area 3

Area 2 1 =lawn

2= vegetable garden

3= rose bed

4= acid-loving species bed

Area 1b

1 =lawn

2= vegetable garden

3= rose bed

4= acid-loving species bed

Area 1b

Random subsampling within an area

Final Sample to Lab

Break up cores and mix thoroughly in clean bucket

Submit two cups of soil for testing

Soil Testing

– Indicate whether a new seeding/planting or

established planting

• Send the soil sample and questionnaire

to the laboratory

• Results are usually returned in 1-2

weeks

Soil Testing

• Best results are obtained from properly

collected sample

– Remove any stones, roots and other materials

– Air dry the sample before sending it to the

laboratory

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Evaluate and Implement

• Review and interpret the soil test results

– Existing pH level

• Numerical value

• Verbal description

– Existing nutrient levels and corresponding

fertility category

• Very low, low or medium = Below optimum

• High = Optimum

• Very high = Above optimum

SAMPLE

Determines

amount of

limeSelection of

liming

materials

Need for

phosphorus

and

potassium

fertilizer

Need for

micronutrient

fertilizer

Alkaline (example)

pH 9,

[H+] = 10-9 = 0.000000001

Neutral

pH 7,

[H+] = 10-7 = 0.000000100

Acid (example)

pH 5,

[H+] = 10-5 = 0.000010000

Soil pH:

Degree of Acidity [H+]

or Alkalinity

Why isn’t N analysis included in standard fertility tests?

• Nitrogen exists in many rapidly interchangeable forms in soil;

• Some forms are subject to loss from the soil;

• Therefore…– Amount in soil may

have changed by the time the analysis is completed

– Recommendations are based on seasonal needs (short-term)

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Other tests

Soil

respiration

Soil textural

analysis

Soil organic

matter

And others:

soluble salts

gravel

content

nitrogen tests

etc.

Natural Acidifying Processes in

Soil

• CO2 from respiration + water H2CO3

• Organic acids produced by roots, microbes

• H+ released by roots

• Leaching of basic cations Ca++, K+, Mg++

• Especially in humid (high-rainfall) climate

• Oxidation of ammonium & other compounds

In NJ climate, tendency is for soils to

become more acidic.

Fertilizers and Nutrients

Chemical Characteristics

• Macronutrients:

– Nitrogen (N)

– Phosphorus (P)

– Potassium (K)

– Calcium (Ca)

– Magnesium (Mg)

– Sulfur (S)

• Micronutrients

– Iron (Fe)

– Copper (Cu)

– Boron (B)

– Chlorine (Cl)

– Manganese (Mn)

– Zinc (Zn)

– Molybdenum (Mo)

Fertilization is not a cure all

• Fertilization may be helpful, but only

after you correct other issues that may

be impacting the plant

77

Fertilizers

• Quick release –

water soluble

• Slow release

• Organic or

Natural

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Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients

Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources

Magnesium Mg Aids photosynthesis. Key

element for chlorophyll.

Epsom salts,

dolomitic

limestone

Sulfur S Helps to build proteins. Sulfur,

superphosphate

Calcium Ca Part of cell walls. Part of

enzymes.

Limestone,

gypsum

Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients

Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources

Nitrogen N Gives dark green color to

plant. Increases growth of

leaf and stem.

Manure,

blood meal,

fish emulsion

Phosphorus P Formation and growth of

roots, seed formation.

Superphosphate

, rock

phosphate,

bone meal

Potassium K Increases vigor and disease

resistance. Stimulates

production of sugar,

starches, oils.

Sulfate of

potash,

greensand,

wood ashes,

seaweed

Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients

Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources

Zinc Zn Aids in cell division. In enzymes

and auxins.

Zinc sulfate

Iron Fe A catalyst. In the enzyme

system.

Iron sulfate,

chelated iron

Manganese Mn In enzyme system. Manganese

sulfate

Copper Cu Enzyme activator. Copper sulfate

Molybdenum Mo Helps in the use of N. Sodium

molybdate

Boron B Affects absorption of other

elements. Affects germination of

pollen tube.

Borax

What’s in the bag ?

82

N = Nitrogen: •critical component of proteins,

chlorophyll molecules

•green up•too much and improperly timed N

causes excessive top growth

P = Phosphorus•used in fall for root growth

•component of DNA, RNA,

photosynthesis

K= Potassium

•used all year

• involved in heat/cold

tolerance,

•disease resistance &

other stresses

Fertilizer Ratios

83

Fertilizers come in

Multiple Ratios

Complete Fertilizers

•Contain N-P-K

•2:1:1, 3:1:1, 4:1:2, etc

Balanced Fertilizer

•1:1:1 Ratio or a 10-10-10 Product

Incomplete Fertilizer

•One or more nutrient is not present

High Analysis Fertilizer

•One Nutrient is present in excess of 30%

Nitrogen (N)

• Major component of organic compounds

(amino acids, nucleic acids, chlorophyll)

• Deprived plants - pale green or yellow--a

condition known as chlorosis --due to a lack of

chlorophyll.

• Older leaves affected first then younger leaves

act as nutrient sinks draw nutrients at the

expense of older structures.

84

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Nitrogen Deficient

85

Phosphorus (P)

• New leaves draw from older leaves

• ATP and other nucleotides; phosphorylation of sugars

• Deficiency - stunted growth and sometimes purple

blotches, but not chlorotic. Older leaves are the first to be

affected, P def is fairly uncommon deficiency.)

86

87

Potassium (K)

• Numerous metabolic pathways

• Regulate stomatal opening and closing via moving Cl-

and K+ ions,

• Deficiency - yellowing (followed by browning) of the leaf

margins, which can sometimes be mistaken for wind

burn.

• Protein deficiency, K-starved plants susceptible to

environmental stresses such as frost or pathogens.

88

89

- N

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- P -K

Recycling Nutrients

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Nitrogen SourcesMaterial Analysis

(% dry wt)

Rate of Nutrient

Release

Bat guano 10-4-2 Medium-rapid

Compost 2.5-1-1.5 Slow

Cow manure 2-1-1 Slow

Dried blood 12-1-1 Medium-rapid

Fish meal 10-6-2 Slow

Grass clippings 2-1-2 Medium

Soybean meal 7-1.5-2 Slow-medium

Alfalfa meal 4-0.5-2.5 Medium

Phosphorus and Potassium Sources

Material Analysis

(% dry wt)

Rate of Nutrient Release

Rock phosphate 28-38 0 Slow

Bone meal 15 0 Medium

Wood ash 2 6 Rapid

Potassium sulfate 0 50 Rapid

Greensand 1 5-8 Very to extremely slow

Potential N Fixation of Selected Legumes

Crop Estimated Production

(lb N/A/year)

Alfalfa 160-200

Alsike clover 120-140

Ladino clover 180-200

Sweet clover 140-180

Crown vetch 80-120

Hairy vetch 80-250

Nutrient Sources

Fertilizers

Manures

Nutrient Sources

Compost

Mulches

Nutrient Sources

Legumes

Grass Clippings

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103

Recycle Grass Clippings

• Provides 30% or more of Nitrogen needs of grass. Great slow release source of Nitrogen.

• Lawns green-up earlier and stay green longer in the fall.

• Can help to reduce stress as well as pest and weed problems.

Establishing Clover

• Micro Clovers

• 2 to 8 oz per 1000 sq. ft

• use Dutch white clover

and not the larger,

forage types such as

Ladino white, or Alsike

or Red Clover. White Clover

(Trifolium repens)

104

Composts are not all created equal

105

Manure

Manures % Nitrogen % Phosphate % Potash

Bat 6.0 9.0 3.0

Beef (fresh) 0.6 0.4 0.5

Beef (dry) 1.2 2.0 2.1

Chicken (fresh) 0.9 0.5 0.5

Chicken (dry) 1.6 1.8 2.0

Hog (fresh) 0.6 0.3 0.4

Hog (dry) 2.2 2.1 1.0

Horse (fresh) 0.6 0.3 0.5

Rabbit (fresh) 2.4 1.4 0.6

Turkey (fresh) 1.3 0.7 0.5

106

Bio-Solids

• Not permitted in organic production

systems

• Concern for heavy metals, pathogens

and other contaminants in the waste

stream

107

Blood Meal

• dry powder made from blood &

used as a high nitrogen fertilizer

• N = 13.25%, P = 1.0%, K = 0.6%.

one of the highest non-synthetic

sources of nitrogen. A by- product

from catlle slaugnterhousese

108

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109

Seaweeed / Kelp Products

• 12,000+ var seaweed

• minimal bulk but alginate

binds soil

• Nutrients - 0.3% N, - 0.1%P

, - 1.0% K,

• trace elements & amino

acids & growth regulators

• Salt content , clean source

110

Seaweed / Kelp

J Plant Growth Regul

(2009) 28:386–399111 112

Fertilizing Trees

113

Nutrient Sources

• Nitrogen often comes from fertilizer application and from the air (legumes N from atmosphere)

• Phosphorus often comes from fertilizer, bone meal, and superphosphate.

• Potassium is supplied to plants by soil minerals, organic materials, and fertilizer.

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Nutrient Sources

• Sources of calcium are calcitic and dolomitic limestone, gypsum, and superphosphate.

• Magnesian and dolomitic limestones, soil minerals, organic material, and fertilizers are sources of magnesium for plants.

• Sulfur may be supplied to the soil from rainwater. It is also added in some fertilizers as an impurity, especially the lower grade fertilizers. The use of gypsum also increases soil sulfur levels.

Organic Matter

Organic Matter

• Leaf Compost

– Add 3 to 4 inches on bare ground

– Economical

– Some weeds and other contaminants

– Mix in top 6 to 12 inches of soil

Physical Characteristics - Tilth

• Tilth or structure is affected by several factors,

including:

– Organic matter, limestone, biological activity

• All increase aggregation or flocculation of

particles

– Sodium

• Decreases aggregation or dispersion of

particles

• Tilth is primarily a ‘by-product’ of biological activity

Physical Characteristics - Tilth

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Physical Characteristics - TilthBACKYARD COMPOSTING

Bill Hlubik

Professor - Agricultural and Resource

Management Agent for Rutgers

Cooperative Extension of Middlesex

County

WHY COMPOST YARD ANDKITCHEN WASTE

• National Composting Council estimates the average U.S. household generates 650 lb of compostables every year.

• Limited landfill space should be reserved for materials that cannot be recycled or composted

• Garbage handling is the 4th largest expense for many cities. Composting can reduce those costs

WHY COMPOST

• Saves money and time

• Reduces fertilizer and water use

• Reduces need for soil and plant amendments

• Improves soil structure

• Increases aeration and water holding capacity

• Stimulates healthy root development

• Reduces chemical inputs

• Conserves natural resources

Paper products32.7%(54)

Metals8.2%

Glass5.3%

Plastic12.1%

Other16.4%

Food12.5%(2.6)

Yard12.8%(64)

Total = 254 million tons/yr (4.6 lb/person/day)

Backyard composting can increase recycling of yard and food wastes.

Percent of categorythat was recycled

The overall recycling rate was 33% in 2007

2007 Municipal Solid Waste Production in the U.S.

Composting

• Size of bin

• Carbon to Nitrogen ratios

• Watering

• Aerating

• Adding Soil

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Composting

• Leaves

• Vegetable and Fruit

scraps

• Paper products

• Meat scraps

• Bones

• Oils and Soaps

YES NOComposting

Composting is the transformation of

organic material (plant matter) through

decomposition into a soil-like material

called compost.

Invertebrates (insects and

earthworms),

and microorganisms (bacteria and

fungi)

help in this transformation.

Composting -Speeding up the natural decay process

A compost pile or binallows you to control •Air (oxygen)•Water•Food, and•Temperature

By managing these factors you can speed up the

otherwise slow natural decay process

What do you need to make compost?

• Decomposers – Your composting work crew. These are the microbes (mainly bacteria and fungi) that do all the work for you.

• Food for the decomposersThe organic materials to be composted

• The right amount of air, water, and warmth to keep the work crew happy

Where do the decomposers come from?

If you build it, they will come…

•Soil•Leaves, Chopped twigs,

paper•Food scraps•Manure, and•Finished compost

Each of these will add microorganismsto the compost pile

Composting

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One teaspoon of good garden soil to which compost has been added contains

• 100 million bacteria• 800 feet of fungal threads

Numerous additives and starters are available but arenot needed for good or rapid composting

What is the best food for your decomposers?

All organic materials will compost, but not all should be added to a backyard compost pile

Organic wastes that should be composted include:

Garden trimmings

Kitchen scraps

Also• Used potting soil• Manure• Sawdust• Hair

Grass clippings

Leaves

Materials to avoid…

Avoid organic materials that could cause

problems during or after composting

• Oil, fat, grease, meat, fish or dairy products,

unwashed egg shells (tend to attract pests,

vermin, limit activity of beneficial microbes)

• Hard to kill weeds (bindweed, quackgrass)

and weeds that have gone to seed (could

infest garden area when compost is used).

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Materials to avoid…

Cat or dog waste

(attracts pests, could spread disease)

Diseased or insect ridden plants

(could infect or attack garden plants when compost is used)

Is shredding necessary?

Have greater surface area per unit volume

Allows microbes to get at more of the food

Smaller particles decompose faster

Chipping or

shredding coarse

materials (twigs,

stems) will speed up

the rate at which they

decompose

Decomposition

Your compost workers will thrive if you give them a balanced diet.

• Composting will be most rapid if the decomposers are fed a mix of carbon rich and nitrogen rich materials.

• Carbon rich organic wastes are known as “browns”

• Nitrogen rich organic wastes are known as “greens”

Leaves (30-80:1)

Straw (40-100:1)

Paper (150-200:1)

Sawdust (100-500:1)

Animal bedding mixed with manure (30-80:1)

High carbon materials such as

Vegetable scraps (12-20:1)

Coffee grounds (20:1)

Grass clippings (12-25:1)

Manure

– Cow (20:1)

– Horse (25:1)

– Poultry (10:1), with litter (13-18:1)

– Hog (5-7:1)

High nitrogen materials such as

Browns

• Decay very slowly

• Coarse browns can keep pile aerated

• Tend to accumulate in the fall

• Tie up nitrogen in soil if not fully composted

• May need to stockpile until can mix with greens

Greens

• Decay rapidly

• Poor aeration – may have foul odors if composted alone

• Tend to accumulate in spring and summer

• Supply nitrogen for composting

• Best composting if mixed with browns

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Aerobic composting

• Composting with

decomposers that

need air (oxygen)

• The fastest way to

make high quality

compost

• Produces no foul

odors

• Aerobic decomposers

produce heat

Aerobic composting and temperature

• A thermometer is a nice tool but is not

• essential for good composting

• Active composting occurs in the temperature range of 55oF to 155oF

• Pile temperature may increase above 140oF but this is too hot for most bacteria and decomposition will slow until temperature decreases again.

55 140

155

Does my compost pile have to get

hot?• Good compost can be made in a pile that never

gets hot, but…

– Decay will be slower and it will take longer to make compost

– Not enough air, to little or too much water, or too many browns in the mix could all keep a pile from heating.

• High pile temperature provides the benefits of

– The most rapid composting

– Killing pathogenic (disease causing) organisms

– Killing weed seeds

Getting air to your decomposers

Hot airlowO2

coolair

O2

rich

O2

Warm air rising

through the pile

draws fresh air in

from bottom and

sides

Wind can

stimulate aeration

Pile aerationDepends upon adequate porosity

• Porosity is the air filled space between particles

• “Browns” help to maintain good porosity in the pile

• A compacted pile has lost porosity, can be increased

by turning

• Aeration can be

increased by inserting

sticks, cornstalks, or

perforated pipes into or

under the pile

Pile aerationGetting air to your work force

• Turning the pile mixes

fresh air into the pile• Turning tools can make

the job easier

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Water

• Pile water content should be at 40-60%

• As wet as a squeezed out sponge

• If too dry, add water as you turn the pile

• If too wet, add browns and/or turn the pile

•Rapid decomposition requires optimum water content•If too dry, bacterial activity will slow or cease•If too wet, loss of air in the pile will lead to anaerobic conditions

Making compost the fast way

• Turn the pile every 5 to 7 days,

– move outer material to the pile center

– add water if needed

• During the first few weeks temp should

reach 140oF

• After about 4 weeks less heat will be

produced and compost will maintain lower

temp (100oF)

Making compost the fast way(cont.)

• After about 4 more weeks the pile will no

longer heat after turning and volume will

be about one third of original.

• Allow the pile to cure (stand without

turning) for 4 more weeks before using the

compost

When is compost finished?

Compost is mature when

• The color is dark brown

• It is crumbly, loose,

and humus-like

• It has an earthy smell

• It contains no readily

recognizable feedstock

• The pile has shrunk to

about 1/3 of its original volume

Where should I put my compost pile?

• Shaded area will help prevent drying out in summer

• Avoid areas that will interfere with lawn and garden activities

• Adequate work area around the pile

• Area for storage

• Water available

Considerations for locatingthe compost pile

• Good drainage

• Away from any wells

• Near where finished compost will be used

• Be a good neighbor

– Make your composting area attractive, or

– Keep it out of your neighbors’ view

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Bin/pile construction• Ideal size is approximately a 3

foot cube

– Promotes sufficient aeration

– Retains sufficient heat to maintain warm temps

– Piles larger than 5 x 5 x 5 feet are difficult to turn and tend to become anaerobic in the center

Manufactured bins

The Earth Machine BinSoil Saver Bin

Compost Troubleshooting

Odors

Odors are one of the most frequent but easily avoidable

composting problems.

• Rotten odor

– Putrid smell or rotten egg smell

– Usually results from anaerobic conditions

– Excess moisture, compaction

– Turn pile, add dry porous material (browns), cover kitchen

scraps

• Ammonia odor

– Too much nitrogen (greens)

– Add high carbon material (browns), turn pile

Compost Troubleshooting

Temperature

Low pile temperature

• Pile too small, cold weather, too dry, poor aeration, or lacks nitrogen

• Make pile bigger or insulate sides, add water, turn the pile, add greens or manure

High pile temperature

• Pile too large, insufficient ventilation

• Reduce pile size, turn

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Compost Troubleshooting

Pests: raccoons, rats, insects

• Presence of meat scraps or fatty food

waste, rotten odors

• Remove meats and fatty foods, cover

with sawdust or leaves, turn the pile

• Compost in an animal-proof bin

– Covered bin, trash can bin, cone bin, or

barrel bin

– Wire mesh sides and floor (1/4 – 1/2 in

openings)

• Use worm composting

(vermicomposting) for food scraps

Benefits of compost

Plant nutrients

Compost is not a fertilizer, but does contain plant nutrients

• Nitrogen and phosphorus are mostly in organic forms

– Released slowly to plants– Not readily leached from the

topsoil

• Compost contains many trace nutrients that are essential for plant growth

Using finished compost

• Soil amendment– Be sure that compost is mature, has an earthy

smell (no ammonia or rotten smell), looks dark and crumbly with no recognizable feedstock

– Compost improves soil health when mixed in the top 4 to 6 inches (work in no more than a 2” layer of compost)

• Will improve water and nutrient retention of sandy soils

• Will loosen compacted clay soils and make them more friable

Ecolawn self propelled applicator

copyright 2002,

Hlubik, Rutgers, The

State University of

NJ

166

Using finished compost

• Surface mulch in the garden/landscape– Maximum 3” depth

– Start 3-4” from trunk

– Extend out to dripline

• Mulch provides– Protection from temp

extremes

– Slows moisture loss from soil

– Provides some slow release nutrients

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Using finished compost

• Lawn topdressing– Be sure compost is very mature to avoid harming the

lawn

– Use fine (screened) compost, ¼” depth raked over lawn

– Best if lawn is cored before applying compost

– Retains moisture, supplies slow release nutrients, prevents soil compaction

• Potting mix– Compost must be very mature to avoid injury to plants

– Use fine textured compost

– Mix no more than 1/3 compost by volume

Resources

• www.ifplantscouldtalk.rutgers.edu

• Educational demonstrations at the EARTH center at Davidsons Mill Pond Park in South Brunswick, NJ

• Master Gardener Program