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QUALITY CONTROL TEST FOR COSMETICS

NAME: B.Ravi Shankar (M.Pharmacy)

SUBJECT: Pharmaceutical and cosmetic analysis

Acharya & BM Reddy College of Pharmacy

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

• They are used as cleansing, moisturizing and beautifying agents. They help in enhancing attractiveness of the body, altering the appearance of the body without affecting its functions.

• Sunscreen products are also skin care products which are helpful in protecting the body from U.V rays and treating sunburns.

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CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

Powders &compacts

Face powder

Lipstick

Body powder

Rouges

Prickly heat powder

Face pack

Creams Lotions

Vanishing cream Skin lotion

Cold cream Astringent

All purpose cream Lotions

Colorants

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EVALUATION OF POWDERS

1.Shade test: The variation of colour is determined and controlled.

2.Colour-dispersion test: In this with help of magnifying glass segregation or bleeding of colour is observed.3.Play off test: In this test adhesion property of powder with the puff is checked.4.Flow property test: It is measured by the angle of repose mainly for the body powder.

5.Particle size determination: It is done with the help of microscope and sieve analyser.

6.Moisture content test: In this % moisture content is estimated by using the formula

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EVALUATION OF CREAMS

The evaluation of creams is carried out by two methods:a. In vitro method b. In vivo method

In vitro methodTensile strength tester: For determining the tensile property of the excised stratum corneum of the skin.Haegans gas bearing electro dynamometer: It is helpful in determining the viscoelastic behaviour of skin.Gravimetry analytical method: Helps in establishing relationship between water content present in stratum corneum and relative humidity.

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Thermal analytical method: Various methods like DSC, TMA, TGA are used in order to provide information about the effect of temperature which causes changes in stratum corneum.

In Vivo MethodTranspirometry: Helps in measuring trans epidermal water loss of the skin which helps in providing information on moisturizing potential.Scanning electron microscope: Skin replicas are used in this method to know that effect of topical preparations on the skin condition i.e dry and rough skin.Sensitivity test: These tests are performed in order to measure the irritancy sensitization potential & photo toxicity of skin.

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EVALUATION OF LOTIONS

1.Spectrophotometric evaluation: To evaluate the U.V absorption ability of sunscreen lotion compounds.

2.Erythemal dosage: To determine the erythemally effective radiation , transmitted by suntan preparations.3.In vivo skin testing: This is a direct test on animal skin particularly rabbit, the site used is either abdomen or backside as these sites have minimum sensitivity.

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EVALUATION OF ROUGES

1.Melting point: It is determined by capillary method.

2.Colour dispersion test: It is checked under microscope and no particle above 50μ should be there.3.Aging stability: In this product is kept at over 400 for a one month period noting the changes & comparing with fresh product.4.Container compatibility: Compatibility of the product with plastic has to be checked.

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HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

These includes: •Hair cleansing preparations•Hair tonics•Hair colorants•Hair grooming aids•Hair wavers, curlers, straightners•Hair removers•Shaving preparations

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EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOSShampoos before releasing into the market, must be tested for their safety on application to the eyes, skin. General tests for identification of ingredients and quantity of each ingredient should be carried out by proper analysis. Some of the test include:

1.Various physical properties & performance characteristics are studied these are foam formation and foam stability , rheology of the products, nature of the foam, effect of the shampoo on the hair & its characters.2. Performance and character of the foam are be studied by stirring the foam in a specially designed devices, and by adding selected oil such as lanolin, mineral oil, vegetable oil, diet to foam and studying their effect.3. Effect on the hair can be studied by half head technique. Where half of the hair is shampooed, other half is used as control, comparing the two parts by observation and by combing and other process.

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4. Effect on skin & eyes: This can be done by applying it on the animal skin and observing the irritation effects.

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EVALUATION OF HAIR TONICS

These products are evaluated for the contents estimation and their identification, also some other tests are required which are to be done according to purpose.

1. Antiseptic property: This can be done by in-vitro anti microbiological test against some specific organism using liquid & solid medium.

2. Stability test: Stability of products and the ingredients must be studied, particularly that deals with effects of heat & light etc. It is well known that most of the phenolic materials will discolour on exposure to light & thus make fair hair, dark particularly in the presence of traces of alkali or soap.

3. Sensitivity test: Some of the ingredients like antiseptics may cause irritation, sensitization or photosensitization of the skin. So these should be tested and can be done by patch test, either open or occlusive test.

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EVALUATION OF HAIR REMOVERSAs chemicals used for hair removers can be toxic, it is necessary to perform toxicity test along with other test including identification of ingredients and estimating their quantity.

1. Estimation of hair removing agents: As high concentration of the chemical hair removers may be dangerous, it is necessary to remove the quantity. It can be done by any instrumental chemical analysis.

2. Toxicity test: The test can be done on animal. For this purpose rabbit can be used . Preparation can be applied for hair removal and the effect on the skin can be studied by observation or by microscopic study.

3. Stability: Stability of product is very important . This is done by any normal stability study or accelerated stability study at higher temperature.

4. Rheology: Rheology of the preparation can be studied by using any suitable viscometer.

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EVALUATION OF HAIR COLORANTS

As hair colorants can cause sensitization of skin or can produce toxic effects, it is imperative to do tests for them, apart from normal quantity test for ingredients and their quantity.

1. Sensitization test: This can be done on the animal skin by applying dye stuff or the preparations and observing the effect on the skin. It is necessary , histopathological study of the related tissues or cells can be done when applied.

2. Long term toxic effect: This is also necessary to evaluate the long term effect. This can be done on animal.

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EVALUATION OF HAIR GROOMING AIDS

1. Stability of the ingredients: This is done by normal stability study, of the active ingredient at room temperature or by accelerated study.2. Physical stability: This is particularly important for emulsion type preparations to evaluate the stability of the emulsion creams. This can be done by accelerated test by exposing the preparation alternatively to heat and cold.3. Rheology: Studied by using viscometer to measure the viscosity & effect of storage on it.

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EVALUATION OF HAIR WAIVERS, CURLERS AND STRAIGHTNERS

It is necessary to measure the quantity of chemical agents present in the preparations, as use of higher concentration is toxic and is not permitted by several countries.

1. Toxic or side effect: Several tests are required to evaluate the toxic effects, the effects can be scalp irritation, incompatibility due to cross sensitization leading to dermatitis. This can be done on animal or by patch test.

2. Stability test: To test the stability and usefulness of the product during shelf-life or when several ingredients are present. This can be done by normal stability test or by accelerated stability study.

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REFERENCES:

1. Identification & quality control of cosmetic products by PP. Sharma.

2. INTERNET3. Industrial pharmacy by Lachman

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THANK YOU