showing off

‘… a store in every aspect, is an extension of the advertising idea, an idea that should permeate the whole building; façade; window; signs; and even down to the garments of the commissionaire and sales people. It should be the union of the architectural and merchandising.’ Joseph Emberton, Art & Industry, 1936

Up to the late 18th century there was little to ‘show off ’ about shopping in London; shops as we know them now hardly existed, let alone stores. What are now the main shopping streets were spawned from ancient highways, some still rough tracks. Oxford Street was part of a former Roman road from East Anglia to the south coast; the King’s Road, a private route for the monarch to Hampton Court; Piccadilly described as no more than a muddy lane; the Brompton Road a mere lane leading to the village of Brompton; and Kensington High Street, a narrow shabby thoroughfare, part of a coaching road to the West Country.

Such shops as did exist were little more ‘show’ worthy than the roads, some still merely the houses of craftsmen making goods for sale. A few of our modern stores, as Selfridges, Austin Reed’s and Simpson’s were built from scratch, but most London stores originated from small shops, mainly drapers or haberdashers, acquired with some optimism by young would-be entrepreneurs. Heal’s started as a workshop selling beds and bedding, moving to Tottenham Heal’s, 1854, architect J. Morant Lockyer.

Previous page Construction of Harrods, 1901 building.

‘… a store in every aspect, is an extension of the advertising idea, an idea that should permeate the whole building; façade; window; signs; and even down to the garments of the commissionaire and sales people. It should be the union of the architectural and merchandising.’ Joseph Emberton, Art & Industry, 1936

Up to the late 18th century there was little to ‘show off ’ about shopping in London; shops as we know them now hardly existed, let alone stores. What are now the main shopping streets were spawned from ancient highways, some still rough tracks. Oxford Street was part of a former Roman road from East Anglia to the south coast; the King’s Road, a private route for the monarch to Hampton Court; Piccadilly described as no more than a muddy lane; the Brompton Road a mere lane leading to the village of Brompton; and Kensington High Street, a narrow shabby thoroughfare, part of a coaching road to the West Country.

Such shops as did exist were little more ‘show’ worthy than the roads, some still merely the houses of craftsmen making goods for sale. A few of our modern stores, as Selfridges, Austin Reed’s and Simpson’s were built from scratch, but most London stores originated from small shops, mainly drapers or haberdashers, acquired with some optimism by young would-be entrepreneurs. Heal’s started as a workshop selling beds and bedding, moving to Tottenham Heal’s, 1854, architect J. Morant Lockyer.

Previous page Construction of Harrods, 1901 building.

Road, was completed in 1905. Trading continued throughout the rebuild. Tim Dale in his history of Harrods described the result as:

… comprehensively, the exuberant spirit of the Edwardian age. Everything – its great dome, its embellished pediment with Britannia receiving the produce of the world, its rich detailing, its pillars and urns and ballustrades – seems to encapsulate this high summer of the British Empire.

Selfridges, planned and built from scratch, by an American entrepreneur and an American architect, epitomised turn of the century store ‘showing off ’. The building, at the start, was some 249 feet long and 150 feet deep, had eight floor levels and five staircases with nine lifts. But it was the store’s façade that made the greatest impact, with its iconic columns stretching over three floors.D.H. Evans building, built 1893.

Selfridge & Co., opened 1909.

Road, was completed in 1905. Trading continued throughout the rebuild. Tim Dale in his history of Harrods described the result as:

… comprehensively, the exuberant spirit of the Edwardian age. Everything – its great dome, its embellished pediment with Britannia receiving the produce of the world, its rich detailing, its pillars and urns and ballustrades – seems to encapsulate this high summer of the British Empire.

Selfridges, planned and built from scratch, by an American entrepreneur and an American architect, epitomised turn of the century store ‘showing off ’. The building, at the start, was some 249 feet long and 150 feet deep, had eight floor levels and five staircases with nine lifts. But it was the store’s façade that made the greatest impact, with its iconic columns stretching over three floors.D.H. Evans building, built 1893.

Selfridge & Co., opened 1909.

During the 1950s the two display giants, Selfridges and Harrods were largely preoccupied with boardroom battles with Charles Clore and Hugh Fraser respectively, so that ‘Miss Selfridge’ and ‘Way In’ were not launched until well into the ’60s; whilst Austin Reeds and Simpsons, not so preoccupied, nevertheless did not launch their ‘Cue’ range and ‘Young Simpson’ mini-shop, again until the late ’60s. Dickins & Jones, however, had understood the potentiality of youthful consumers as early as 1947 when they opened their ‘Young Londoner’ department. And Jaeger, also stole a march on the others when it appointed Jean Muir and her then assistant, David Watts, [still a student at the Royal College of Arts] to design their ‘Boutique’ range, which attracted the younger customer to their windows.

Simpson’s display window, 1952.

Opposite Austin Reed’s display window, 1952.

Selfridges window, McKnight Kauffer, 1925.

During the 1950s the two display giants, Selfridges and Harrods were largely preoccupied with boardroom battles with Charles Clore and Hugh Fraser respectively, so that ‘Miss Selfridge’ and ‘Way In’ were not launched until well into the ’60s; whilst Austin Reeds and Simpsons, not so preoccupied, nevertheless did not launch their ‘Cue’ range and ‘Young Simpson’ mini-shop, again until the late ’60s. Dickins & Jones, however, had understood the potentiality of youthful consumers as early as 1947 when they opened their ‘Young Londoner’ department. And Jaeger, also stole a march on the others when it appointed Jean Muir and her then assistant, David Watts, [still a student at the Royal College of Arts] to design their ‘Boutique’ range, which attracted the younger customer to their windows.

Simpson’s display window, 1952.

Opposite Austin Reed’s display window, 1952.

Selfridges window, McKnight Kauffer, 1925.

Selfridges and Barkers [at Derry & Toms’ roof garden], kept records of royal visitors as well as notables from stage and screen – Selfridges on a panel that it got its visitors to write on, and Barkers in visitors books, later presented to the local archives.

Below Austin Reed’s window display for Ashes series, 1932.

One of Simpson’s annual Christmas Tree of lights by Natasha Kroll, 1950s.

Typical advertisement by supplier for accessories, Coronation of George VI, 1937.

Selfridges and Barkers [at Derry & Toms’ roof garden], kept records of royal visitors as well as notables from stage and screen – Selfridges on a panel that it got its visitors to write on, and Barkers in visitors books, later presented to the local archives.

Below Austin Reed’s window display for Ashes series, 1932.

One of Simpson’s annual Christmas Tree of lights by Natasha Kroll, 1950s.

Typical advertisement by supplier for accessories, Coronation of George VI, 1937.

John Lewis, ‘Summer Gazette’, 1940.Cover, John Lewis, ‘Monthly Special Notices’, 1932. Cover, ‘Harrods News’, 1955.Cover, Harvey Nichols’ Christmas catalogue, 1929.

Jaeger sports clothes, advertisement, 1930.

Heal’s, poster for a furniture exhibition, 1933.

Harvey Nichols, wartime advertisement for dress-making materials.

Harrods, advertisement for Leda brand stockings, Vogue, 1938.

Jaeger sports clothes, advertisement, 1930.

Heal’s, poster for a furniture exhibition, 1933.

Harvey Nichols, wartime advertisement for dress-making materials.

Harrods, advertisement for Leda brand stockings, Vogue, 1938.

showing off

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brompton road

kings road

coaching road

roman road

london stores

london shops

small shops

modern stores