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Page 1: SHOP Cologne AW14
Page 2: SHOP Cologne AW14

TOMMY HILFIGER STORESCHILDERGASSE 47KÖLN

Page 3: SHOP Cologne AW14
Page 4: SHOP Cologne AW14

If you are looking for a wide selection

of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,

you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

expertise in the art of making jewellery

and timepieces. We offer a unique

selection of valuable treasures at 28

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

especially proud because for more than

a century we have been privileged to

contribute to the grand feelings that our

customers express when they purchase

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

jewellery uphold international standards

and are born in our own atelier. This is

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

as well as for our diverse assortment

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

links us with the world’s foremost watch

www.wempe.com.sdrac tiderc lla tpecca eW

Page 5: SHOP Cologne AW14

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

showrooms at the loveliest locations

in great European metropolises, New

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

offers service or advice whenever you

require it, so you can be certain that we

will always be available to meet your

individual needs. We cordially invite you

to discover an abundance of interesting

new items and exclusive special models

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

look forward to your visit!

Köln, Hohe Straße 66,

T +49.(0)221.257 04 40

[email protected]

HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Page 6: SHOP Cologne AW14

Beauty and more …visit Europe’s

No. 1 perfumery!

• Schildergasse 39, 0221 - 920860• Hohe Straße 148–150, 0221 - 2575964• Trankgasse 11 (Colonaden, Hbf), 0221 - 1395047

WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO

THE DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN COLOGNE :

Page 7: SHOP Cologne AW14

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Page 8: SHOP Cologne AW14

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN COLOGNE.

Schildergasse 109 · Einkaufszentrum Köln-Arcaden (Kalk) · Hohe Straße 94 ·

Rhein-Center (Weiden) · City-Center (Chorweiler)

CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

&+5,67慤玉ଚ刧�㍤Ѣ㒐偸Ёᖗԡ㕂ˈ

ѻકક䋼ध� 玓Ⅵ餡啳� ┠ℒ�䑥ৡ

­䗝ᢽЄ䔒DŽ刧ݙ偉ጨᅦਬ䗮爇�瀃 䚼‐

Փ�Ё瀃玓ⅥDŽফЁ㊁�㘨ҬDŽ

Page 9: SHOP Cologne AW14

www.christ.de

Passion. Made in Germany.

The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.

Experience diamonds in a whole new way

at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores

throughout Germany.

Only at CHRIST

CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring*

585/- gold with rhodolites and

brilliant cut diamonds, together

approx. 0.15 ct.**

Page 10: SHOP Cologne AW14

Emma Cheevers

Editor’s Letter

10

/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Welcome to Cologne

Even if you’ve visited Cologne before, you may be surprised to discover

the city’s infuence on Germany’s innovative perfume scene – fnd out

more in our feature on page 40. In this edition, we also take an in-depth

look at the country’s immaculately designed winter fashions (page 46)

and discover Porsche Design’s desirable collections (page 52).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,

and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to

tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination:

the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the

essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier

to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is

free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget

to download the Global Blue mobile app!

With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global

Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Cologne has to ofer.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: PIN

G Z

HU

Page 11: SHOP Cologne AW14

Montblanc Star Classiqueand Hugh Jackman

Crafted for New Heights

Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover

Page 12: SHOP Cologne AW14

Enjoy the perfect shopping trip

With 36,000 m², GALERIA Kaufhof in Co-

logne’s Hohe Straße is one of the largest de-

partment stores in Europe which combines

tradition and modernity. Located in the heart

of the cathedral city, where the shopping

precincts Hohe Straße and Schildergasse

meet, it offers customers the ultimate shop-

ping experience. Enjoy top international

brands and latest trends  in our fascinating

fashion, beauty, home, sport  and gourmet

food departments. The traditional depart-

ment store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th

anniversary with special offers and events.

If you come from a country outside the EU,

you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at

GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QR-code with your smart-

phone to get more information about your

GALERIA store Cologne, Hohe Strasse.

COLOGNE

HOHE STRASSE

fashion | lifestyle | beauty

Page 13: SHOP Cologne AW14

GALERIA Kaufhof...

... makes you fall in

love with Germany

www.galeria.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

Page 14: SHOP Cologne AW14
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Contributors

16

globalblue.com

Milkha Lala

Milkha Lala, one of SHOP’s

artworking assistants, has

studied fne art, photography

and flm. An avid follower

of digital arts and cinema,

his interests include Beat

Generation authors, vintage

guitars and Italian food.

Clare Coulson

Journalist Clare Coulson is

the former fashion editor

of the Daily Telegraph and

former fashion director of

Harper’s Bazaar, for which she

is currently contributing editor.

She also writes for publications

from Net-A-Porter to InStyle.

Gwyneth Holland

Journalist and trend consultant

Gwyneth Holland works with

leading brands and agencies

to discover the future, as well

as writing for global fashion

and trend publications. She is

also a founder of fashion trends

service Unique Style Platform.

Nathalie Lees

Illustrator Nathalie Lees

created the cover for this

season’s edition of SHOP

Cologne, inspired by our

feature about the city’s classic

fragrances and Germany’s

innovative perfume producers

on page 40. Nathalie enjoys

conceptualising ideas into

simple, elegant images and

her versatility has allowed her

to work on projects ranging

from window displays to iPad

apps. She gets her inspiration

from flms, old magazines

and a good night’s sleep.

Read more about

our illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

ILL

US

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: NA

Th

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Page 17: SHOP Cologne AW14

Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions

CoLogne am neumarkt Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM

Page 18: SHOP Cologne AW14

Shop Floor

18

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the

information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury

or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Nathalie Lees

Contributors

Clare Coulson, Gwyneth Holland

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Stephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor

Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editor

Dominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editor

Ximena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editors

Hannah Lewis,

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistant

Gemma Latham

Editorial intern

Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,

Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Dorcas Brown

Assistant picture editors

Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistants

Grace Bird, Mónica Goya

Picture intern

Rubi Ali

Artworker

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,

Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Hibba Sayeed

Online editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online editorial assistant

Katie Ramsingh

Online assistants

Marina Nelson,

Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor

Justine Clifton

Commercial artworking assistant

Aaron Carline

Commercial artworking interns

George Trinick,

Ellie Vigors

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,

Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Chinese interns

Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Assistant Russian editor

Kira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistant

Linda Blank

Russian translators

Teena Garnik,

Gary Ramazanov

Arabic editor

Haneen Malaeb

Japanese editor

Kyoko Nishimoto

Digital manager

Eamonn Leacy

Digital production manager

Funmi Paul-Taiwo

Online commercial editor

Sally Ashley-Cound

Project manager

Bina Summan

International digital

marketing executive

Nina Kobalia

Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

Digital production assistant

Paul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership manager

Riccardo Canini

Distribution and partnership manager

Claudia Suárez

Print

Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y

Vice president sales Central Europe

Thorsten Lind

Country manager

Jörg Schönbeck

Marketing sales manager

Michael Mauerhoff

Sales manager

Pino Dufter

Marketing specialist

Mareike Dieckmann

Global Blue Germany,

Vogelsanger Weg 38,

40470 Düsseldorf,

[email protected]

Regional tourist office

Cologne Tourist Board,

Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 346430,

cologne-tourism.de

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,

Route de Crassier 7,

CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923

globalblue.com

[email protected]

Page 19: SHOP Cologne AW14

FO S SIL S TO RES C O LO GNE

H O H E S T R . 14 4 -14 6 · EH R EN S T R . 1-3

W W W.FO S SIL .C O M

Page 20: SHOP Cologne AW14

Contents

20

Above: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15

p.46

52 In Focus: Porsche Design

From luxury luggage to standout

smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible

for a wide range of desirable pieces.

Ruairidh Pritchard visits the German label

Gu i De

57 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of Cologne, plus useful information for

visitors

e sse n t i a l s

70 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving money

on your shopping

t R a nsl at ions

72 Русский Перевод

76 美文翻译

79 日本語翻訳

81

sou v e n i R

82 the essential item to bring home

PRoDuCts

22 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece from

Cologne this season

26 My Favourites

accessories designer Michelle elie reveals

her top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15

28 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion

and footwear to jewellery and accessories

n e ws

34 Shop Window

one store not to be missed in Cologne

36 News

seasonal updates on shops, services

and new products

F e at u R e s

40 Cover Story: Freshness In A Bottle

German perfumers have had a reputation

for innovation since eau de Cologne was

created. today’s modern fragrances are

worthy successors to this classic scent,

reports Gwyneth Holland

46 Form And Function

German manufacture enjoys an

international reputation for precision –

and this extends to its fashion brands,

writes Clare Coulson

Page 21: SHOP Cologne AW14

DIVEMASTERSWISS CHAMP SPECTRA

FRAGRANCEEXPLORER JACKET

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.VICTORINOX.COM

FLAGSHIP STORE DÜSSELDORF I KÖNIGSALLEE 88 I 40212 DÜSSELDORF

BRAND STORE KÖLN I WALLRAFPLATZ 2 I 50667 KÖLN

FUNCTIONALITY IS PARTOF OUR FAMILY.

Page 22: SHOP Cologne AW14

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Check Out

22 | PRODUC TS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

the attention of the most stylish Parisians. Today each scarf is woven from the silk of 250 silkworm cocoons. Each design takes years to create as skilled artists search for the perfect inspirations and motifs before selecting the exact shades to be individually screen-printed. The company is constantly developing to remain at the top of its game and a scarf from Hermès is a piece of heritage made modern. hlHermès Minuit au Faubourg scarf, €250, Hermès, Domkloster 2A,50667 Cologne,+49 (0)221 420 7560,hermes.com

* for map go to page 60

HERITAGE MADE MODERN

A strong contender for the title of the world’s most famous scarf-maker, Parisian fashion house Hermès has been creating beautiful silk squares since 1937. The brand has a rich equestrian heritage, refected in the horse motif of this design, which has been thoroughly modernised with a comic book-style interpretation. The frst Hermès scarves were made with innovative yarn spun from raw Chinese silk, immediately attracting

Page 23: SHOP Cologne AW14

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Made in Germany

Life tastes great.

Grand Gourmet

Knife set 5 pieces

instead of 384,75* 289,–

*sum of the prices

Cookware set 4 pieces

instead of 496,95* 399,–

Premium OneCromargan®

WMF StoresKölnwww.wmf.de/flialen

Schildergasse 106-108, Tel. 0221/2576572

Hohe Straße 134, Tel. 0221/2575888

Page 24: SHOP Cologne AW14

Köln, Breite StraßeKarstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Page 25: SHOP Cologne AW14

Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most

important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and

comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory

service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey

through our store Karstadt Köln.

Fashion, Lifestyle & more

Page 26: SHOP Cologne AW14

26 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

American-Haitian designer and former model

Michelle Elie established accessories label Prim

in 2010. As well as producing unusual and highly

covetable jewellery and handbags, she has worked

as a fashion stylist and as editor of fashion-meets-art

magazine Garage. Elie, who lives in Cologne, shares

her fashion loves and city tips with Hannah Lewis

1. ‘My favourite designer

is Nicolas Ghesquière,

the new creative director

at Louis Vuitton’

Louis Vuitton handbag, €3,800,

Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828,

louisvuitton.com

My Favourites: Michelle elie

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 27

2. ‘Laura Mercier’s Almond

Coconut Milk Soufé Body

Crème is a must-have for a

little personal luxury and self

pampering. I take jars of it

in my suitcase on my travels.

It is also a perfect little gift’

Laura Mercier Soufé Body

Crèmes, 300g, €63 each,

Douglas, Trankgasse 11,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 139 5047,

lauramercier.com

3. ‘This Rabbit bag has

become an icon for me

and Prim because of its

playfulness and poetry.

I love the combination of

gold and silver mixed with

leather, which makes this

bag appropriate for both

day and night’

Prim Rabbit bag, price on request,

Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78,

50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 946 1172,

michelleelie.com

4. ‘I love all the Molecule

perfumes by Geza Schoen.

I always switch between

Molecule 01 and Escentric

01, or sometimes mix the

two together. Somehow

the perfume melds with

the natural pheromones

of the wearer’

Molecule 01 fragrance, 100ml,

€115, Apropos, Mittelstrasse 12,

50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 5190,

escentric.com

5. ‘I fnd that shoes from

Prada and Miu Miu are

always experimental, fnding

new shapes and new materials,

exuding a great sense of fun

and humour while telling

a story’

Miu Miu boots, €690,

miumiu.com

4

2

3

5

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28 | PRODUCTS

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Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

4. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99,

Douglas, Neusser Strasse 252,

50733 Cologne, +49 (0)221 739 3860,

michaelkors.com

3. Cos polo neck, €49,

Cos, Ehrenstrasse 33-35,

50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9057,

cosstores.com

1. Swarovski earrings, €49,

Swarovski, Wallrafplatz 8,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9506,

swarovski.com

2. Roeckl handbag, €679,

Roeckl, Hohe Strasse 160-168,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 0287,

roeckl.com

ORANGE BURST

Clever layering and a mix of

textures and colours will keep

you warm yet streamlined

this winter

1

2

3

4

Page 29: SHOP Cologne AW14

globalblue.com

SHOP | 29

7. Mango skirt, €49.99,

Mango, Hohe Strasse 90,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 920 7630,

mango.com

5. Gina Tricot gilet, €29.95,

Gina Tricot, Schildergasse 52,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2726 0890,

ginatricot.com

6. Louis Vuitton scarf, €595,

Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828,

louisvuitton.com

5

6

7

Page 30: SHOP Cologne AW14

30 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

6. Bang & Olufsen H6 headphones,

€399, Bang & Olufsen,

Apostelnstrasse 9-11, 50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 257 3668,

bang-olufsen.com

7. Victorinox backpack, €110,

Victorinox, Wallrafplatz 2,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 2806 7270,

victorinox.com

4. Rimowa suitcase, €389,

Rimowa, Am Hof 3,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 1681 2079,

rimowa.com

5. Closed shirt, €169,

Closed, Apostelnstrasse 14-17,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 2587 9584,

closed.com

1. Diesel jacket, €750,

Diesel, Ehrenstrasse 69,

50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 4550,

diesel.com

2. AM Shoe Company boots, €99.95,

Rolandschuhe, Schildergasse 49,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 925 3726,

amshoes.de

3. Montblanc watch, €3,490,

Montblanc, Wallrafplatz 7,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 250 9580,

montblanc.com

PEAK PERFORMANCE

Practical clothes needn’t be dull. Padded jackets

and hard-wearing boots can make a style statement

1

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 31

2 5

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3

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shop calvinklein.com

Page 34: SHOP Cologne AW14

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

Shop Window

34 | N E WS

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what really stands out is the service. Years of experience in menswear give the friendly, knowledgeable staf members great insight into just what the discerning male is looking for in terms of style, quality and service. They will fnd out exactly what you need and procure it for you with speed and precision. hlEbinghaus, Glockengasse 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 7390, ebinghaus-koeln.de

* for map go to page 65

STANDOUT SERVICE

Stylish gentlemen should be sure to pay a visit to Ebinghaus while in Cologne. Opened in 1975, the store brings high-quality Italian menswear to Germany, ofering a range of clothing for business, leisure and evening occasions. The selection is impressive, ofering pieces from brands such as Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna and Cerruti 1881, but

Page 35: SHOP Cologne AW14

ecco.com

ECCO Store Cologne – Breite Strasse 42-46 - +49 (0) 221 57164727ECCO Store Düsseldor f – Grabenstrasse 3 - +49 (0) 211 86325086ECCO Store Oberhausen – Centro Oberhausen – Centroal lee 137 - +49 (0) 208 2994658

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN

for EVERYONE

Page 36: SHOP Cologne AW14

36 | NEWS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

LOCAL LEGEND

One of Germany’s fastest-

growing fashion brands, Gerry

Weber ofers high-quality

fashion clothing and accessories

for modern women. The brand

started in 1973 as a small

business and today has grown to

ofer fve separate lines, which

cater to women of all ages, in

all aspects of their lives. In the

spacious Gerry Weber store on

Schildergasse, visitors will fnd

a range of pieces from these

various lines. As well as the

mainline collection, the store

ofers Gerry Weber Edition, a

range of fashion-forward casual

wear, the Samoon line, which

caters for all shapes and sizes

without compromising on style,

and the youthful and trend-led

Taifun and GW lines. hl

Gerry Weber,

Schildergasse 113,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 2589 9934,

gerryweber.com

* for map go to page 65

CONFIDENT STYLE

Fashion boutique

Heimat has always set out

to ofer something unique

to Cologne. The store

initially stocked pieces

from a selection of young

Belgian designers, including

Veronique Branquinho,

Bruno Pieters and Raf

Simons. Today it presents

a broader collection of

menswear and womenswear,

from labels such as

Christophe Lemaire,

Issey Miyake and Comme

des Garçons. The vision

is to ofer a collection of

amazing pieces, relevant

to the current evolution

of fashion, with a focus on

the silhouette. Co-founder

Andreas Hoyer describes the

Heimat customer as a person

with the self-confdence

to express themselves and

who likes to dress as though

every day is an occasion. gl

Heimat,

Mauritiuswall 76-78,

50676 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 946 1172,

heimat-koeln.de

Page 37: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 37

globalblue.com

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app to

help you to plan your trip. The app gives

information on 45 cities in 22 countries

– thousands of stores are listed and

located on maps, with full contact details

and a description of what each store

sells. Our maps guide you right to the

store and can also be downloaded for

offline use enabling you to create your

own itinerary. You can also sign up for

the Global Blue Card and, once you’re

logged in the My Tax Refund wallet

becomes available, allowing you to track

pending refunds. The app is available

in Chinese, English and Russian, and

includes a Tax Refund Calculator to

tell you how much you’ll save on every

purchase you make in every different

country you visit. There are also

instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you

to pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

WONDERFUL WEINGARTEN

Luxury department store

Weingarten is a must-visit

store on any trip to Cologne.

The four-storey boutique

ofers one of the best selections

of menswear, womenswear

and childrenswear in the city.

From Hugo Boss to Ralph

Lauren, many of the world’s

premier fashion labels can

be found here, and alongside

regular sizes, Weingarten

also provides speciality sizes.

Whatever your needs, highly

trained members of staf are

available to make sure you fnd

the ideal clothes and that you

feel great wearing them. hl

Weingarten, Friesenplatz 19,

50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 951 4150,

weingarten-mode.de

* for map go to page 62PH

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38 | NEWS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

MIX AND MATCH

Take 1940s silhouettes and

separates, add a little grunge

with slouchy jumpers, leather

and animal print, throw in

some brightly dyed faux fur,

quirky headwear and statement

necklaces, and you start to

build a picture of the eclectic

vision presented by Marc Cain

this season. The collection,

JEWELS OF GERMANY

The story of Wempe

began over 135 years ago with

a young watchmaker named

Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm

Wempe, whose eye for quality

and skills in marketing

soon got him noticed by

powerful clients. His watch

designs were beautiful and

accomplished, and by 1907

his success had allowed

him to open a fagship in

Hamburg. The core values

of beauty and quality have

remained paramount within

Wempe, which is still a family-

run company to this day. This

striking Wempe necklace

is an absolute showstopper;

purchase it as a gift for another

or a gift for yourself. hl

Wempe,

Hohe Strasse 66,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 257 0440,

wempe.de

* for map go to page 61

which is like a dressing-

up box of mix-and-match

separates, almost shouldn’t

work – but it does. Select pieces

at random and you can have

faith that they will combine

to create that perfect vision

of nonchalance that is usually

so hard to achieve. gl

Marc Cain,

Mittelstrasse 12-14,

50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 250 9383,

marc-cain.com

* for map go to page 64 PH

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Welcome at Deiter jeweler!

In our store you get the original brand watches, gold jewelery,

diamonds and jewelery trend at attractive prices.

Of course, we can advise you in english and chinese too,

please contact us.

Köln � Schildergasse 50 www.juwelier-deiter.de

Page 40: SHOP Cologne AW14

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SHOP | 41

German perfumers have had a reputation for innovation since eau de Cologne was created. Today’s modern fragrances are worthy successors to this classic scent, reports Gwyneth Holland

honour of his adopted home town, and he created a whole new genre of fragrances in the process. Farina’s invention is still in production three centuries later.

Farina’s work went on to infuence the world’s most recognisable eau de Cologne, 4711, which remains hugely popular around the world, both for its classic packaging and its light, zesty scent. Now owned by fragrance company Mäurer & Wirtz, the cologne is still made to its original formula, but the 4711 brand is expanding to reach new audiences, from its breezy new Wunderwasser perfumes for men

Freshness in a bottle

German perfumers’ contributions to the world of fragrance have been characterised by innovation and artistry for centuries. Eau de Cologne has long been Germany’s most famous perfume, created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 and worn by all the royal courts of Europe. Farina said that the fresh scent reminded him of ‘an Italian spring morning, of mountain dafodils and orange blossoms after the rain’ – a world away from the heady, sweet, unsophisticated perfumes of the time. His citrus scent with herbal undertones was named eau de Cologne in

Page 42: SHOP Cologne AW14

42 | FEATURES

Previous page: 4711 eau de Cologne

German ‘fragrance artists’ are creating distinctive scents for the true perfume connoisseur

and women to an Italian twist on eau de Cologne,

through its Acqua Colonia collection.

Germany’s newer perfume houses

may not yet have the global reach of an icon

like 4711, or the cachet of French perfume,

but they are continuing Farina’s pioneering

work by building artistry, innovation and

individuality into their fragrances. ‘Germany

is a country of innovations, where people are

working on their dreams and want to create

something new. We don’t just rethink old ways

and refresh them, we want to establish new

standards,’ says Tamas Tagscherer of niche

perfume brand JF Schwarzlose, a Berlin-based

house that specialises in luxurious perfumes

that epitomise the city’s style. Founded in 1856,

JF Schwarzlose was relaunched in 2012 with

designer Lutz Herrmann, perfumer Véronique

Nyberg and marketer Tamas Tagscherer at the

helm. The brand’s latest fragrance, Zeitgeist,

encapsulates Berlin’s avant-garde spirit, its

changeability and its sensuality through amber,

musk and leatherwood combined with synthetic

notes such as calone and edelonide. ‘The image

of a German perfume brand today is still

something new and unusual for most people

– they fnd it exciting and innovative,’

says Tagscherer.

Projects such as Hamburg’s Biehl

Parfumkunstwerke are enhancing Germany’s

/72 7681

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SHOP | 43

Above (clockwise from lef): JF Schwarzlose perfume production from years gone by; Escentric Molecules 03 fragrance; Zeitgeist and other fragrances by JF Schwarzlose; the brand’s historical advert for the 1A-33 fragrance

reputation for creative, unusual perfumes even

further by elevating fragrance to an art form.

Renowned perfumer Thorsten Biehl works

with some of the perfume industry’s most

respected noses to create singular scents

available only in very limited editions. Free

from commercial pressures, ‘fragrance artists’

such as Mark Buxton, Arturetto Landi,

Patricia Choux, Egon Oelkers and Geza

Schoen are able to create distinctive scents

for the true perfume connoisseur.

Geza Schoen’s own perfume brand,

Escentric Molecules, ofers unexpected

fragrances for perfume purists. ‘For most

of my friends, perfume was always too much,

too sweet, too heavy, too fruity... I thought

it would be nice to wear [scent] more like an

aura rather than a typical perfume, so it had

to be really linear, almost one-dimensional, yet

very sexy,’ says Schoen. The ‘one-dimensional’

perfumes in his Molecules collection are based

on a single ingredient, such as ambroxan,

vertiveryle acetate or Iso E Super, while his

Page 44: SHOP Cologne AW14

44 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): perfumer Thorsten Biehl; Frau Tonis Berlin store; the brand’s fragrances

Escentric collection is more intricate,

‘playing with the molecule in a larger

perfume structure’ by weaving both

classical and ultramodern notes together.

At Frau Tonis in Berlin, the perfumers

take a more personal, but no less inspirational,

approach. The brand evokes the clear, distinct

perfumes of the past through new fragrances

such as the aromatic Aventure, with its notes

of cedar wood, amber and pink pepper, Linde

Berlin, which evokes Berlin’s famously fragrant

linden trees and Violet, based on a perfume

created for Marlene Dietrich in the 1920s.

To create a genuine signature scent, visitors

to the Frau Tonis Berlin store near Checkpoint

Page 45: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 45

German perfumes’ reputation for quality and innovation is as potent as ever

Charlie can compose their own. Now available

at boutiques in New York, Milan, Barcelona

and Madrid, Frau Tonis is an example of

Germany’s continuing infuence on the

perfume world. The brand was founded

by Stefanie Hanssen, who believes that

German perfumes’ reputation for quality

and innovation is as potent as ever. ‘The times

in which perfume had to come from France

or Italy to get recognised are defnitely over.’

m-w.de,

schwarzloseberlin.com,

biehl-parfum.com,

escentric.com,

frau-tonis-parfum.com

Page 46: SHOP Cologne AW14

Form

Function

German manufacture enjoys an international reputation for precision – and this extends to its fashion brands. This winter’s collections from the country’s top labels are all the better for it, says Clare Coulson

46 | F E AT U R E S

Page 47: SHOP Cologne AW14

And

SHOP | 47

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48 | FEATURES

German designers are fusing pragmatism with high fashion – the results are functional yet also super-chic

Fashion is more global than it has ever

been, yet national characteristics prevail.

The Americans excel at luxe sportswear,

no-one produces such beautiful leather as the

Italians and Paris remains the destination for

utterly chic and feminine style. And, while

the idea of German precision is frequently

discussed in relation to everything from

cutting-edge technology to supercars, it can

be applied equally to the country’s fashion labels.

Practical, immaculately designed and

manufactured, always functional: German

brands are starting to celebrate their innate

pragmatism and their timing couldn’t be better.

Fashion is experiencing a dramatic sea-change

as luxury brands everywhere realise that what

women really need in their closets are real

clothes; timeless building blocks that look

good and are easy to wear.

Take, for example, Jason Wu’s debut

collection for Hugo Boss. Wu, who is best

known for his utterly frivolous, incredibly

luxurious cocktailwear, wasn’t perhaps the

most obvious choice for a brand renowned

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Previous page: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15 /73 7781

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SHOP | 49

Above (clockwise from lef): Hugo Boss cashmere coat; Hugo Boss catwalk show; Escada Sport; Escada Sport Manteau jacket, all autumn/winter 2014/15

for its pin-sharp masculine tailoring. Yet the

marriage has only served to highlight the

strengths of the German brand. Ahead of his

autumn/winter debut Wu alluded to the brand’s

studied perfectionism, jokingly referring to

the unapologetically modern Hugo Boss HQ

in Metzingen as ‘the campus’. Yet that sense

of German precision is clear in Wu’s clothes:

the sleekest double-faced cashmere coats,

circled at the waist with a neat black military

belt; the neat trouser suits with immaculately

tailored boyish jackets and gamine tailored

trousers; and the plush knitted capes sitting

high on Wu’s models’ shoulders before

swooping down behind, which look warm

yet eminently practical.

Wu isn’t the only designer rethinking

how to fuse pragmatism with high fashion.

Escada’s latest Escada Sport edition is packed

with equally practical pieces. Fur jackets are

cut close to the body and cinched with belts;

parkas or gilets with fur hoods ofer a cosy

but lightweight way to wrap up in winter; glossy

coats and jackets are insulated with lightweight

quilting and padding. All are paired with fat,

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50 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): Strenesse cross-body envelope bag, autumn/winter 2014/15; Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen; Strenesse ; MCM, both autumn/winter 2014/15

Sportswear offers a particularly potent mix of German precision and tech know-how

boyish shoes designed to be functional yet

super-chic.

At Strenesse it’s a similar story, with

sporty, fur-trimmed lightweight parkas and

jackets providing warmth over sleek day dresses

and leggings. Snug jackets are ofered with

insulating fur across the body and knit on the

sleeves. And, just as at Hugo Boss, the sleek,

modern trouser suit reigns supreme, valued

for its practicality but cut to look super-stylish,

with slouchy trousers in palest dove grey,

charcoal or soft rose beige.

Accessories get the practical treatment

too. Strenesse tops its clean-cut looks with

eminently wearable cross-body envelope bags.

At Munich-based MCM, creative director

Michael Michalsky’s sumptuous totes have

been designed with women’s working lives

at the forefront of the design process; separate

compartments are incorporated for tech

gadgets such as laptops and iPads, while

rucksacks are designed with individual pockets

in which to compartmentalise possessions.

But it’s perhaps in sportswear where

German precision and tech know-how mix

most potently. The country’s world-class

performance sportswear brands, from Adidas

Page 51: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 51

and Bogner to Porsche Design and Schofel,

lead the way when it comes to combining

fashion with extreme sportswear. Adidas was

able to show of all its latest developments when

it dressed the British team at the 2014 Winter

Olympics in Sochi. The brand supplied ‘heat

pants’, self-heating garments that ensure the

optimum temperature for athletes during their

warm-up sessions, and Powerweb suits made

with a thermoplastic polyurethane that stores

and returns elastic energy to reduce muscle

fatigue. This may sound very sci-f, but don’t

be surprised if the very same technology starts

to appear in your wardrobe in the not-too-

distant future. And you can bet it will be

German brands who ofer it frst

hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com,

mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com,

porsche-design.com, schofel.comPH

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SHOP | 53

From luxury luggage to standout smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible for a wide range of desirable pieces. Ruairidh Pritchard

visits the German label

Porsche Design

IN FOCUS:

Fashion and functionality are sometimes mutually exclusive: in many cases, they can be polar opposites. However when it comes to design that is practical as well as beautiful, the Germans are experts. Buying German has been a priority for many car lovers for decades, with Porsche being the go-to sports model for motor enthusiasts the world over.

More recently, Porsche’s line of clothing and accessories has brought fashionable

consumers around to the idea of buying German. The collection was introduced in 1972 by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, the founder of the renowned car. Relaunched in 2003 as Porsche Design, the collection now encompasses luggage, timepieces, homeware and eyewear. Electronic products are also included under the umbrella, such as a range of high-end stainless steel BlackBerry smartphones: the most recent,

Page 54: SHOP Cologne AW14

54 | FEATURES

Speaking about why the engineered

leather range stands out, Dr Juergen Gessler,

Porsche Design’s CEO, says, ‘It creates an

uncompromising link between functionality

and aesthetics and fts seamlessly into our

product portfolio. Our concept remains

unchanged: we don’t follow trends, we

set our own accents. The result is that our

version of casual chic makes our fashion

collections unique.’

Perhaps the best example of the brand’s

seamless combination of functionality and

fashion is its signature handbag, the TwinBag.

Created using the most exclusive leathers

and expertly crafted by artisans in Florence,

the TwinBag’s most distinguishing feature

is its innovative carrying concept – adjustable

handles which allow the bag to be worn either

as a traditional handbag or as a shoulder bag.

Each bag is produced from a single

piece of leather, which is then expertly

stitched by hand. The lining is made from

the softest Alcantara material and the metal

fttings, including chrome, silver, white gold

and rose gold, are fnished using advanced

electroplating procedures. This is the perfect

combination of Italian craftsmanship and

German design.

the P’9982, is available in an array of fnishing

options, including a body which is backed

with Italian leather or with crocodile leather.

In 2010 Porsche Design launched its

selection of engineered leather products,

created through high-quality craftsmanship.

The collection has featured a leather jacket

made from nappa lambskin, which was

so exclusive it was limited to 200 pieces

worldwide. Other items include a duvet

jacket crafted from super-soft kidskin

suede and the Tec Flex leather jacket, which

incorporates covered zip-pockets and loops

for headphone cables.

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Previous page: ferdinand Alexander Porsche /75 7880

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SHOP | 55

The success of the TwinBag led to a

collaboration with the Berlin-based painter

Thierry Noir who took the TwinBag and

incorporated his own signature handpainted

‘heart faces’ to create a special edition which

was presented at the 2013 Art Basel Miami

Beach and then made available to purchase

from selected Porsche Design stores worldwide.

‘The speed of modern life has changed

our perception of the world and the only logical

conclusion is the combination of minimalist

design and functionality,’ says Porsche Design’s

creative director Thomas Steinbrueck.

‘Therefore, we have created a look that works

in harmony with this new living environment.

Structured but not constructed. Casual and

formal at the same time. In particular, we

have used the latest techniques of materials

development for the production of familiar

and yet forward-looking cuts.’

Four decades after its creation, it’s clear

that Porsche Design still follows the design

principles set by its founder, who maintained

that ‘if you analyse the function of an object,

its form often becomes obvious’. In the case

of Porsche Design, the form is not only

functional, and perhaps obvious, but beautiful

porsche-design.com

Above (from lef): Dr Juergen Gessler, CEO of the Porsche Design Group; Porsche Design x Thierry Noir TwinBag installation at Art Basel Miami Beach 2013; Porsche Design menswear autumn/winter 2014/15

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Guide

GUIDE | 57

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Cologne

with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to go for the best

sweet treats in town to a spa with panoramic views of the city. Start with

SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-

travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out

globalblue.com/cologne.

A GlimPSe OF COlOGne

Cologne’s Romanesque Saint Kunibert’s church is known for its rich furnishings,

preserved from the Middle Ages. Note the ornate murals in the chancel, the

original fooring surrounding the high altar and the windows from the early

13th century.

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globalblue.com

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58 | GUIDE

Cologne

HotelTrain StationU-BahnPlace Of Interest

Tourist Information Shopping Centre/Mall

E HRENSTR ASSE

BREITE STR ASSE

RICHARD-WAGNER-STR ASSE

ROONSTRASSE

HO

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BISMARCKSTR ASSE

KYOTOSTRASSE

A ACHENER STR. HAHNENSTR ASSE NEUMARKT

HANS-BÖCKLER-PLATZ/BF. WEST

CHRISTOPHSTR./MEDIAPARK

MOLTKESTR.

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

RUDOLFPLATZ

FRIESENPLATZAPPELLHOFPLATZ

NEUMARKT

MAURITIUSKIRCHE

POSTSTR.

HOME 4711

ST. GEREON CHURCH

ST. APOSTELN CHURCH

Hotel Boulevard

Pullman Hotel

Barcelo Hotel

MercureFriesenstrasse

Hotel imWasser turm

Hopper Et Cetera

Hotel Esplanade

Rennaissance

page

62

page

62

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64

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64

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HO

HE

ST

RA

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AUGUSTINES T R ASSE

MÜHLENBACH

KO

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AU

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DOM/HBF.

COLOGNEMAIN STATION

ST. URSULA CHURCH

Hilton

Excelsior Hotel

Hotel Mondialam Dom

Le MeridienDom Hotel

CM Cit y Class Hotel Europa

Hotel am Augustinerplatz

Senats Hotel

Hotel Lyskirchen

Hotel Königshof

CM Cit y Class Hotel Cipriani

Dorint am Heumarkt

Hotel SonataCM Cit y Class

Residence Hotel

Maritim Hotel

Ar t'otel

Hotel Allegro

LindnerResidence

Hotel

Savoy

Grand Cit y Hotel

Best WesternGrand Cit y Köln

Hotel Domspatz

Hotel Ludwig

Marriot

Breslauer Hof

Central

Domspitzen

Hotel Callas Eden Hotel

Hotel Mauritius

Global Blue Refund Ofce: Reisebank AG inside Cologne’s main station

1 Ebinghaus

Menswear store Ebinghaus offers

an impressive selection, including

pieces by Versace, Ermenegildo

Zegna and Cerruti 1881.

Ebinghaus, Glockengasse 2A,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 257 7390,

ebinghaus-koeln.de

* featured on page 34

2 Strenesse

Discover where fashion meets

functionality with Strenesse’s

sport-luxe collection, available at

the brand’s Mittelstrasse boutique.

Strenesse, Mittelstrasse 12-14,

50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 250 9905,

strenesse.com

* featured on page 47

3 Victorinox

Pick up some new luggage from

Victorinox’s limited-edition Travel

in Colour range.

Victorinox,Wallrafplatz 2,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 2806 7270,

victorinox.com

* featured on page 31

4 Heimat

Browse the latest collections

from Raf Simons, Issey Miyake,

Jil Sander and more at the chic

Heimat boutique.

Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78,

50676 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 946 1172,

heimat-koeln.de

* featured on page 36

SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

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60 | GUIDE

Am Hof, Wallrafplatz, Domkloster, Komödienstrasse & Bahnhofsvorplatz

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BISCHOFSGARTENSTR ASSE

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● TIME SQUARE

APOTHEKEDOM/KOSMETIK ● DOM APOTHEKE ●

TIME SQUARE ●

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ABASONIC● SOUVENIRS

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Café Reichard

Bulgari

The Serpenti collection from luxurious

italian brand Bulgari has the kind of iconic

status that few lines ever achieve. inspired by

the feminine, by the history of italy, and by

the legendary ruler Cleopatra, the collection

of bags and accessories is a favourite among

everyone from fashion editors to Hollywood

actresses. This season Bulgari introduces the

new Serpenti Scales design, which features

a linear frame with a top handle and a

modern, architectural shape. The new style

is available in a range of colours that cannot

fail to brighten any outft.

Bulgari, Wallrafplatz 1, 50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 270 5650, bulgari.com

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

Restaurant

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.62

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Hohe Strasse

LINTGASSE

DR

US

US

GA

SS

E

MA

RT

INS

TR

AS

SE

AM HOF

LU

DW

IGS

TR

AS

SE

AM HOF

MINORITENSTR ASSE

TU

NIS

ST

RA

SS

E

TU

NIS

ST

RA

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GROSSE BUDENGASSE MÜHLENGASSE

UN

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OL

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CH

MIE

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GO

LD

SC

HM

IED

QU

AT

ER

MA

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UN

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AS

CH

EN

MA

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ER

B

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GE

RS

TR

AS

SE

ST

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WE

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MARSPL ATZ

HE

UM

AR

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BRÜCKENSTR ASSE

BE

CH

ER

GA

SS

E

ALT

ER

MA

RK

T

UN

TE

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ÄS

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R

PERLENPFUHL

HE

RZ

OG

ST

RA

SS

E

HO

HE

ST

RA

SS

E

HO

HE

ST

RA

SS

E

SCHILDERGASSE GÜRZENICHSTR ASSE

● ROECKL● ESPRIT● SIX● TAMARIS● TALLY WEIJL● CALZEDONIA● BIBA● H&M UNDERWEAR● DOUGLAS● FOSSIL● PYLONES● KIKO

● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE● YVES ROCHER● R & C MÜLLER● THE BODY SHOP● WMF● ZARA ● BIJOU BRIGITTE● PIMKIE● INTIMISSIMI● KONPLOTT● INTIMISSIMI● ADIDAS NEO ● BIBA● FOOT LOCKER● COOLWAY● H&M MEN● SNIPES ● CADENZA● CHRIST

● S OLIVER● MANGO● SIDESTEP● VANS ● TEZENIS● COTTON ONE● LEGO● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● BOSE● WEMPE● FLIRT FASHION● SCHIESSER● DEPOT

● JACOBI

THOMAS SABO ●HÖGL ●

TOM TAILOR ●GEOX ●

FASHION CLUB ●MEDIA MARKT ●

VERO MODA ●JACK & JONES ●

ACCESSORIZE ●PROMOD ●

VERO MODA ●JACK & JONES ●

REVIEW ●H&M ●

NEW YORKER ●CLAIRES ●SWATCH ●

LUSH ●CLARKS ●

GÖRTZ17 ●HUNKEMÖLLER ●

HALLHUBER ●PANDORA ●

SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ●REVIEW ●

CÖLN - CARRE ●ESPRIT EDC ●

C&A ●TELEFONICA GMBH / O2 ●

● BOGNER

Galeria Kaufof

RIGBY & PELLER ●

FARINA-HAUS

SELECTED

STORES IN

GALERIA

KAUFHOF:

APRIORI

BIBA

SATURN

TISSOT

NeSpreSSo

Nespresso machines combine style and

substance, producing great cofee while

also being a pleasure to look at. The newly

launched inissia machine is available

in a choice of eye-popping colours and

the compact design makes it perfect for

city living. The inissia is equipped with

Nespresso’s expert technology, heats up

in a mere 25 seconds and is the lightest

Nespresso machine to date, weighing only

2.4kg – so you can enjoy perfect cofee any

time and anywhere.

Nespresso, am Hof 1, 50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)211 965 067850,

nespresso.com

Department Store

P.38

Page 62: SHOP Cologne AW14

62 | GUIDE

Department Store Shopping Centre/Mall

Breite Strasse & Apostelnstrasse

SCHILDERGASSE

GEREONSTRASSE

UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN

SCHWALBENGASSE

NE

VE

N-D

UM

ON

T-S

TR

AS

SE

K

RE

BS

GA

SS

E

TU

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ST

RA

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E

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UN

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TR

AS

SE

AP

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LN

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AL

BE

RT

US

ST

RA

SS

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EHRENSTR ASSE

R

ICH

MO

DS

TR

AS

SE

MITTELSTR ASSE NEUMARKT

MAGNUSSTRASSE

BURGMAUER

A P P E L L H OFPLA

TZ

BREITE STR ASSE BREITE STR ASSE

FRIESENSTRASSE

HE

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KO

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ILLER

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& B

OC

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RE

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WE

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OU

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AS

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AN

SE

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DE

SIG

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LED

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CH

WA

NE

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PO

TH

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TH

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OR

TH

FAC

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MA

MM

UT

● C

AY

UN

A

● B

EN

CH

● B

AR

BO

UR

GR

AV

IS ●

● MIA ROMAMARC O'POLO ●● RADIUSCALIDA ●

JUW

ELIE

RZ

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LER

● WELLENSTEIN

DuMont-Carré

OpernPassagen

Ka

rs

ta

dt

WD

R A

RK

AR

DE

N ●

AU

GE

ND

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LER

BR

ILLEN

JUW

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R K

AU

FH

OLD

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EW

E GA

LER

IE ●

● R

ALP

H E

BIN

GH

AU

S

SELECTED STORES IN

DUMONT-CARRÉ :

BETTY BARCLAYBIRKENSTOCKBONPRIXCAMEL ACTIVE

ETERNAKULT J.P. GÖRGENSLLOYDMAX KÜHLPLANETPROMARKTRUNNERS POINT

SELECTED STORES IN

OPERN PASSAGEN:

4711BOSEJANSSEN RASIERER-SERVICEKRASS OPTIKSOVRANOTHOMAS SABO

BE

NE

SIS

ST

RA

SS

E

M AG N USSTR ASSE

AL

BE

RT

US

ST

RA

SS

E

AP

OS

TE

LN

ST

RA

SS

E

EHRENSTR ASSE

PALMSTR ASSE

IKK

S●

AM

ER

ICA

N A

PP

AR

EL

LE

VI’S

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AR

HA

RT

T ●

PE

PE

JEA

NS

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YB

ER

PO

RT

●R

EP

LA

Y ●

WE

EK

DA

Y ●

BU

CH

HA

ND

LU

NG

WA

LTH

ER

NIG

BE

N S

HE

RM

AN

DO

UG

LA

S ●

ZA

RA

AN

OU

K ●

SA

CH

A S

HO

ES

TH

OM

AS

SA

BO

AC

CE

SS

OR

IZE

JUS

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AT

UR

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C ●

LA

PO

RC

EL

AIN

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LA

NC

HE

SC

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CH

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OD

A ●

FR

ED

PE

RR

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AL

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PR

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ST

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AM

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OC

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CR

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NN

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HM

EN

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AR

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H&

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IDE

ST

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IES

EL

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BL

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SC

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BE

RL

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DE

R ●

Ehrenstrasse

Café Reichard

Set opposite Cologne’s majestic cathedral, Café Reichard

is a traditional teahouse. It’s a perfect spot for afternoon

tea and offers an array of delicious pastries.

Café Reichard, Unter Fettenhennen 11, 50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 257 8542, cafe-reichard.de

* for map go to page 60

Salon Schmitz

Frequented by Cologne’s most trend-conscious locals,

Salon Schmitz, with its chic vintage-style interior and

laid-back appeal, is a great coffee and brunch spot.

Salon Schmitz, Aachener Strasse 28, 50674 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 139 5577, salonschmitz.com

Fassbender

The ideal café for those with a sweet tooth, Fassbender

is known for its divine cakes and confectionery.

Fassbender, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 925 9990, fassbender.de

* for map go to page 64

Cologne’S beSt CaFéS

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

P.37

Page 63: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 63

Featured In This Issue

Minoritenstrasse & Gürzenichstrasse

GR

OS

SE

NE

UG

AS

SE

AU

F D

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RU

HR

P

IPIN

STRASSE

HEUMARKT

GLOCKENGASSE

HE

RZ

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RA

SS

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AN

SA

NK

T A

GA

TH

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RÖHRERGASSE

BREITE STR ASSE

MA

RT

INS

TR

AS

SE

ST

EIN

WE

G

TU

NIS

ST

RA

SS

E

TU

NIS

ST

RA

SS

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KRONENGASSE

LU

DW

IGS

TR

AS

SE

L

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WIG

ST

RA

SS

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AN DER RECHTSCHULE

SCHILDERGASSE

MINORITENSTR ASSE

SCHILDERGASSE

LIN

TGASSE

HO

HE

ST

RA

SS

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H

OH

E S

TR

AS

SE

SCHILDERGASSE

MA

RS

PF

OR

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BRÜC KENSTR ASSE MARSPLATZ HE

UM

AR

KT

UN

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CH

MIE

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LIC

HP

LA

TZ

MÜHLENGASSE

GR

OS

SE

NE

UG

AS

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AM HOF GROSSE NEUGASSE

CÄCILIENSTR ASSE

AUGUSTINESTR .

GÜRZENICHSTR ASSE

GE

OR

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TR

AT

HM

AN

N ●

DA

ME

NM

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IA ●

AU

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ST

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RA

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TH

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LA

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RM

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UT

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AX

MA

RA

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PO

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OU

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HU

HH

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KE

NR

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AN

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AU

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EP

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TO

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AL

PH

EB

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HA

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AR

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AN

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KO

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AN

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SE

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● MUSIKHAUS TONGER

● MAHI DEGENRING

MadaMe MiaMMiaM

Madame Miammiam produces sweet

treats that are as pretty look to at as they

are delicious to eat. Run by pastry chef

anne Schulte-Schmitz, the store is popular

with locals for its beautiful celebration

cakes as well its tempting selection of

petits fours, cupcakes and cookies, and

ofers traditional German sweets alongside

seasonal favourites. it’s not easy to leave

Madame Miammiam empty handed.

Madame Miammiam,

antwerpener Strasse 39,

50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 271 9242,

madamemiammiam.de

Page 64: SHOP Cologne AW14

64 | GUIDE

Neumarkt, Richmodstrasse & Zeppelinstrasse

KR

EB

SG

AS

SE

SCHA AFENSTRASSE FL

EIS

CH

ME

NG

ER

GA

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CÄCILIENSTR ASSE PIPINSTR ASSE

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SC

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AR

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MA

YE

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HA

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XX

NeumarktPassage

PINOCCHIO KINDERMODEN ●JUWELIER ANTONIO M.KRINGS ●

JACK WOLFSKIN ●

HA

BITA

T ●P

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IT BA

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AU

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AN

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& F

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● MORE & MORE

Neumarkt Galerie

FOTO GREGOR ●● TCHIBORASIERER STAHLWAREN

JANSSEN ●

● GLOBE-TROTTER

Appelrathcüpper

Karstadt

LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ●

EHRENSTR ASSE

GROSSE BRINKGASSE

AP

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LN

ST

RA

SS

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FR

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CC

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N ●

HA

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CU

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SELECTED STORES IN

NEUMARKT GALERIE:

APOTHEKE AM NEUMARKTELÉGANCEES SIEMENS JUWELIERGANTGOLDKOPF PARFÜMERIEHALLHUBER

LIZ WEINMANNPALMERS LEJABY RE:STOREREFORMHAUS BACHERSOVRANOTCHIBOZEROPRIMARK

SELECTED STORES IN

NEUMARKT PASSAGE:

STIFT + PAPIERSTEIFF

Mittelstrasse

If you’re brave enough, climb the 533 steps to the top of

Cologne cathedral’s south tower, and enjoy the incredible

panoramic views as your reward.

TOP TIP

Department Store Shopping Centre/MallGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

PH

OTO

: KO

ELN

TO

UR

ISM

US

GM

BH

/AN

DR

EAS

LTG

EN

P.82

P.38

P.62

Café Featured In This Issue

Page 65: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 65

Schildergasse

KR

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SG

AS

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FL

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CH

ME

NG

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GA

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KLOSTER

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LU

DW

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RA

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KO

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BREITE STR ASSE BREITE STR ASSE

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SCHILDERGASSE

CÄCILIENSTR ASSE PIPINSTR ASSE

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SC

HU

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SK

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PG

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GaleriaKaufof

Peek &

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● BOGNER

Appelrathcüpper

Karstad

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LEDERWAREN VOEGELS ●

● EBINGHAUS

SELECTED STORES IN

PEEK & CLOPPENBURG:

25 SUNCLASSMANGO

SELECTED STORES IN

GALERIA KAUfhOf:

SATURN

Claudius Therme

a visit to Claudius Therme, Cologne’s

thermal baths and spa, is a novel way to

banish winter chills. Claudius Therme

is located in the rheinpark, overlooking

Cologne’s spectacular cathedral. admire

the panoramic views from the spa’s sauna,

revitalise yourself with a herbal steam bath,

or simply soak up the health benefts of

thermal, mineral spring water. The spa

also ofers an excellent range of beauty

and wellness treatments.

Claudius Therme,

sachsenbergstrasse 1, 50679 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 981440, claudius-therme.dePH

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66 | GUIDE

Designer Outlet Roermond

How to

get tHere

By car

From Cologne, take

either the A57 towards

Düsseldorf or the A61

towards Venlo until

these cross the A52.

From there take the A52

towards roermond, cross

the border and follow

the signs.

By train

Designer outlet

roermond is just a

15-minute walk from

roermond station. when

you leave the station,

cross Stationsplein

and follow the signs

to Designer outlet

roermond. For train

times and ticket prices,

please visit bahn.de.

By shuttle bus

the shuttle bus service

departs every Saturday

and Sunday from the

main railway station

in Cologne, at 9am on

Saturday and 10am on

Sunday. the return

journey costs €15.

Designer Outlet Roermond,

Stadsweide 2, 6041 tD roermond, +31 (0)475 351777,

designer-outlet-roermond.com, mcarthurglen.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm, Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm

PerFeCt DAy

12pm

Stop for lunch at Asia

Cocos where favourful

thai, Chinese and

Vietnamese cuisine is

crafted using the freshest

available ingredients.

3pm

Baldinini ofers high

quality and meticulous

attention to detail in its

range of shoes, leather

goods and accessories.

5pm

Pick up a pair of classic

American jeans at

True Religion. the

US import specialises

in well-ftting, high-

quality denim.

7pm

Alongside its Swiss

Army knife, Victorinox

ofers a range of cutlery,

clothing and fragrances.

globalblue.com

10am

the clothing collections

at Daniel Hechter are

ideal for those with an

active lifestyle. Pieces

are easy to mix and

match, and epitomise

sporty chic.

Page 67: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 67

Essential Information

Use your smartphone’s Qr code reader to link to the helpful websites

below when you’re on the go

1 42 53 6

1. Regional Tourist Ofce

Cologne tourist Board,

Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1,

50667 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 346430,

cologne-tourism.com

2. Federal Foreign Ofce

Switchboard (24-hour

service): +49 (0)30 18170

Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am-

3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

3. Transportation Maps

For public transport timetables

and tickets go to kvb-koeln.de

or scan the Qr code

4. Deutsche Bahn

If you intend to travel by train

go to the bahn.de website or

scan the Qr code for more

information

5. Taxi

to fnd a local taxi, scan

the Qr code or use the

website taxi.de

6. Global Blue Online

For the most up-to-date

information on shops,

museums, galleries and

restaurants in germany,

go to globalblue.com or

scan the Qr code

EMERGENCY SERVICES

Emergency: 112 (ambulance

and fre); 110 (police)

Doctor: +49 (0)116117

(emergency service, weekends

and public holidays)

Lost Or Stolen Cards:

+49 (0)116116

(immediate blocking of lost/

stolen debit/credit cards)

USEFUL PHRASES

Hello ∙ Hallo/guten tag

Thank you ∙ Danke schön

Please ∙ Bitte

I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...

Goodbye ∙ Auf wiedersehen

How much is...? ∙

wieviel kostet...?

Can I have a receipt

please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine

Quittung haben?

INSIDER TIP

For the latest information

on attraction opening times

and special events when you’re

on the move, head to the

ofcial tourism mobile website

koelntourismus.mobi

PH

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DID YOU KNOW ...?

Cologne Cathedral took 632 years to build; work began

in 1248 and wasn’t completed until 1880

Page 68: SHOP Cologne AW14

68 | GUIDE

Explore, See, Do

PH

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Explore

Rheinauhafen, the historic dockland area

of Cologne, has an attractive promenade

with an international feel, adding a

modern edge to the oldest metropolis in

Germany. The dockland quarter is fast

becoming a hub of creativity and at its

centre is the spectacular Kranhäuser.

Cologne Tourist Board is the ofcial

tourism marketing organisation for the city

of Cologne and is the frst port of call for

people from all over the world, whether

business or leisure visitors.

Cologne Tourist Board,

Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430,

cologne-tourism.com

See

Aiming to be a place of refection, the

strikingly modern Kolumba art museum

exhibits sacred art alongside contemporary

works. The building, by renowned architect

Peter Zumthor, is an attraction in itself.

Kolumba, Kolumbastrasse 4,

50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 933 1930,

kolumba.de

Do

In Cologne’s Belgian Quarter, a growing

number of young designers is setting up

in small, individually designed boutiques,

where they are free to sell more unusual

fashion and accessories. Stop at one of the

city’s cosy cafés, bars or restaurants after

visiting the shops.

If you only have a short time to spend in Cologne, the city’s

tourist board has three top recommendations for you

globalblue.com

Page 69: SHOP Cologne AW14

SHOP | 69

Cologne Bonn Airport

After every great holiday comes the

fight home, but that doesn’t mean

your shopping trip should be over when

you reach the airport. At Cologne Bonn

Airport, you’ll fnd the best names

in German fashion and accessories.

If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or

a new pair of sunglasses from a label that

you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s

boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in

your suitcase. Cologne Bonn Airport

also has an enticing variety of food

and drink options.

Marc O’Polo

For of-duty days, look no further than

Marc O’Polo. The brand is known

and loved for its cool, casual range of

men’s and women’s clothing. Founded

in Stockholm, Marc O’Polo focuses on

natural materials, combining classic

preppy style with a nod to the season’s

trends. Visit before your fight to stock

up on the brand’s selection of stylish

and snug winter layers.

Hugo Boss

Hugo Boss’s designs are wardrobe staples

that epitomise modern European style.

The brand has fve distinctive lines. Choose

between the sharp tailoring of Boss Black,

the luxurious fabrics of Boss Selection,

the athletic appeal of Boss Green, Boss

Orange’s urban attitude and the fashion-

forward Hugo line.

Kamps

Kamps bakeries are known and loved

throughout Germany and the airport

branch is the perfect place to pick up a

delicious pre-fight snack. The wide array

of flled bread rolls, pretzels and pastries

available includes the company’s most

popular lines, which include its signature

Kamps Eck, a nutty wholegrain rye loaf

sprinkled with seeds, the Fanblock, a

pastry flled with dried fruit, rolled oats

and seeds, and the sinfully good chocolate

and cinnamon Wuppis. Speciality cofees

and cold drinks are also available.

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70

When you shop the world, shop tax free

Contact: [email protected]+421 232 111 111Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

1. Shop

Page 71: SHOP Cologne AW14

globalblue.com

71

Refund Ofces

Refund Ofce details:

Cologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside) M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)Downtown Cologne Reisebank inside the main station Düsseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters

Gates D

Departure

Arrival

Arrival

Departure

In b

ookshop

Kirschner

In bookshop Kirschner

Gates B

Terminal 1

Terminal 2

Gates C

Gates A

Gates B

KeyCologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside),

M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)

Düsseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1

(beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters)

Partner Refund Ofce

Landside

Check-In Area

Security Control

Global Blue Refund Ofce

Tax Free Mailbox

Airside

Customs stamp

Page 72: SHOP Cologne AW14

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72

Немецкие парфюмеры имеют репутацию новаторов еще со времен появления одеколона. Современные ароматы являются достойным наследием этого классического парфюма, – рассказывает Гвинет Голланд

Вклад немецких парфюмеров в мировую индустрию всегда характеризовался инновационным и творческим подходом. Долгое время одеколон удерживал позиции самого популярного парфюма в Германии. Созданный в 1709 году итальянским парфюмером Джованни Марией Фарина одеколон был фаворитом многих королевских дворов Европы. Свежий аромат напоминал Фарина «весеннее утро в Италии, горные нарциссы и цветы апельсина после дождя», – одним словом одеколон не шел в сравнение ни с одним из хмельных, слащавых и безыскусных ароматов тех времен. Нежный цитрусовый аромат с нотками горных трав был назван «eau de Cologne» в честь города Кельна, ставшего парфюмеру вторым домом. Здесь мастеру удалось создать абсолютно новый вид ароматов, который не утратил своей актуальности даже три столетия спустя.Следующим шагом в развитии парфюма

стало создание знаменитого аромата 4711, который и по сей день сохраняет невероятную популярность благодаря своему классическому флакону и легкому, пикантному букету. Одеколон, правами на который владеет парфюмерная компания Mäurer & Wirtz, все еще производится по оригинальной формуле, однако бренд 4711 активно развивается, покоряя все новые аудитории. Так, недавно была представлен новый освежающий аромат Wunderwasser для мужчин и женщин, а также итальянский вариант одеколона – Acqua Colonia.

Новые парфюмерные дома Германии, возможно, не могут похвастаться столь же нашумевшим ароматом как 4711 или престижем, свойственным французским шедеврам, однако они продолжают нелегкое дело Фарина, стараясь собрать воедино мастерство, инновации и индивидуальность. «Германия это страна инноваций, где люди трудятся ради исполнения своей мечты и стремятся создать нечто новое. Мы не просто переосмысливаем и обновляем старые традиции, мы хотим установить новые стандарты», – говорит Тамаш Тагшерер, рассказывая о парфюмерном бренде JF Schwarzlose. Его компания базируется в Берлине и специализируется на создании роскошных ароматов, воплощающих неповторимый стиль этого города. В 2012 году марка JF Schwarzlose, созданная еще в далеком 1856, увидела второе рождение, когда ее возглавили дизайнер Лутц Герман, парфюмер Вероника Ниберг и маркетолог Тамаш Тагшерер. Последнее детище бренда – аромат Zeitgeist, выражающий авангардный дух Берлина, его изменчивость и чувствительность посредством янтаря, мускуса, эвкрифии в сочетании с синтетическими нотами – колон и эделонид. Образ немецкого парфюмерного бренда для многих людей сегодня все еще кажется чем-то новым и необычным – они находят его интересным и инновационным, говорит Тагшерер.

Translations

40: Freshness In A Bottle

Свежесть В Бутылке

РуССкий ПеРеВод

Page 73: SHOP Cologne AW14

73

Благодаря таким проектам, как Hamburg Biehl Parfumkunstwerke репутация Германии, как страны, где создаются креативные и высокохудожественные парфюмы, резко возрастает. Широко известный парфюмер Торстен Биль трудится совместно с лучшими специалистами индустрии, создавая особые ароматы, доступные лишь в очень ограниченных партиях. Свободные от коммерческого давления парфюмеры, такие как Марк Бакстон, Артуретто Ланди, Патрисия Шу, Эгон Олкерс и Геза Шон способны создать самые невероятные ароматы для истинных ценителей.

Собственный бренд Гезы Шона «Escentric Molecules» предлагает неожиданные ароматы для неискушенных пуристов. «Для большинства моих друзей духи всегда были слишком резкими, слишком сладкими, слишком фруктовыми… Я подумала, что было бы неплохо создать такие духи, которые больше будут похожи на ауру, нежели на типичный парфюм. Для этого они должны быть прямолинейны и даже немного однообразны, но вместе с тем необычайно привлекательны», – говорит Шон. Такие «однообразные» парфюмы из его коллекции Molecules основаны на одном единственном ингредиенте, например, амброксане, вертиверил ацитате или Iso E Super, в то время как букет коллекции Escentric более сложный и сочетает в себе как классические, так и ультрасовременные ноты.

В берлинской лаборатории Frau Tonis парфюмеры используют более индивидуальный, но не менее умелый подход. Бренд возрождает знаменитые парфюмы прошлого за счет ароматов современности, например – Aventure, с его нотками кедра, янтаря и розового перца; Linde Berlin, напоминающий знаменитый берлинский аромат липовых деревьев; Violet, основанный на парфюме, созданном специально для Марлен Дитрих в 1920-х. Чтобы аромат получился абсолютно уникальным, посетителям берлинского бутика Frau Tonis, который расположен возле бывшего контрольно-пропускного

пункта «Чекпойнт Чарли», предоставляется возможность самостоятельно смешать выбранные ингредиенты. Марка Frau Tonis, бутики которой сегодня можно найти в Нью-Йорке, Милане, Барселоне и Мадриде, являет собой пример непрекращающегося влияния Германии на мировую индустрию в целом. Бренд был основан Штефани Гансеном, который полагает, что немецкие парфюмы не уступают своим соперникам ни по качеству, ни по уровню инноваций. «Времена, когда общество ценило лишь французские и итальянские парфюмы, уже давно минули».m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com, biehl-parfum.com, escentric.com, frau-tonis-parfum.com

46: Form And Function

Мода или Практичность?

Немецкие дизайнеры в очередной раз доказывают, что одно другому нисколько не мешает. Клэр Коулсон изучила зимние коллекции лучших немецких брендов

Несмотря на то, что мода – понятие глобальное, определенные страны упорно продолжают сохранять лидерство в тех или иных областях. Так, американцы делают превосходную спортивную одежду, итальянцев сложно превзойти по части изделий из кожи, а французы остаются лидерами шикарных и невероятно женственных нарядов. Что же касается Германии, то пресловутая немецкая точность в равной степени применима как к современным технологиям и автомобилям, так и к модным брендам этой страны.

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Практичный дизайн и неповторимое качество в сочетании с природным прагматизмом стали основой формирования модной индустрии немцев. В последнее время, когда мода переживает кардинальные изменения, роскошные бренды по всему миру начинают осознавать одну простую истину: все что нужно женщинам – так это настоящая одежда, состоящая из элегантных классических элементов, которые хорошо смотрятся и легко носятся.

Взять, к примеру, дебютную коллекцию Джейсона Ву для Hugo Boss. Кому-то такой союз может показаться весьма странным, учитывая, что дизайнер специализируется в основном на легких и роскошных вечерних платьях, в то время как Hugo Boss – на строгих мужских костюмах. И, тем не менее, это сотрудничество позволило подчеркнуть сильные стороны немецкой марки. В преддверии своей дебютной осенне-зимней коллекции Ву решил сослаться на перфекционизм бренда, в шутку назвав ультрасовременную штаб-квартиру Hugo Boss в Метцингене «кампусом». И все же ощущение немецкой точности, безусловно, присутствовало в коллекции Ву: стильные двусторонние кашемировые пальто с аккуратным военным ремнем черного цвета; аккуратные костюмы с безукоризненными мальчишескими пиджаками и брюками; а также плюшевые трикотажные накидки, которые можно носить в сложенном виде на плечах, а затем накинуть на спину – все это смотрится элегантно и в высшей степени практично.

Ву не единственный дизайнер, пытающийся переосмыслить и объединить прагматизм и высокую моду. Последняя коллекция Escada «Escada Sport» буквально изобилует практичными моделями. Меховые куртки слегка приталены и подвязаны поясом; парки и жилетки с меховыми капюшонами почти невесомы и весьма удобны в зимнюю пору; глянцевые пальто и куртки сделаны с использованием легкого и современного утеплителя. Все это сочетается с мальчишеской обувью на плоской подошве, которая, несмотря на свою практичность, выглядит довольно шикарно.

В Strenesse похожая история: легкие спортивные парки и куртки, украшенные мехом, сочетаются с повседневными платьями и леггинсами. Прилегающие жакеты утеплены мехом и трикотажными деталями на рукавах. Как и в случае с Hugo Boss особое место здесь отведено современным костюмам, практичным и в то же время стильным, с брюками свободного покроя серого цвета с голубоватым или розоватым отливом.

Аксессуары также приобрели долю практичности. Strenesse завершает свои привлекательные образы удобными клатчами на длинном ремешке. Мюнхенская марка MCM во главе с креативным директором Михаелем Михальски предлагает роскошные сумки тоут, отвечающие всем потребностям современной женщины. В сумках предусмотрены специальные отделения для электронных гаджетов, таких как ноутбук и iPad, а рюкзаки изобилуют кармашками разных размеров для всевозможных мелочей.

Но особенно выраженно немецкая точность и техническое ноу-хау проявились в области спортивной одежды. Когда дело доходит до умения сочетать моду и одежду для экстремальных видов спорта, то здесь неизменными лидерами остаются такие немецкие марки, как Adidas, Bogner, Porsche Design и Schofel. Бренд Adidas смог показать все свои последние разработки во время экипировки британских спортсменов, участвующих в зимних олимпийских играх в Сочи в 2014 году. Adidas представил свои «теплые штаны», сделанные из самонагревающихся материалов и обеспечивающие оптимальную температуру тела спортсмена во время тренировки, а также костюмы Powerweb из термопластичного полиуретана, который хранит и возвращает эластическую тягу для снижения мышечной усталости. Возможно, это звучит немного из области фантастики, однако не стоит удивляться, если в скором времени подобная технология появится в вашем шкафу. И с большой долей вероятности можно предположить, что это

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52: In Focus: Porsche Design

В фокусе: Porsche Design

Руарид Притчард рассказывает о немецком бренде Porsche Design, на счету которого множество дизайнерских предметов – от роскошных чемоданов до стильных смартфонов

Считается, что мода и функциональность находятся на противоположных полюсах и взаимно исключают друг друга. Однако, когда речь идет о практичном и одновременно красивом дизайне, немецкие бренды неизменно оказываются в лидерах. Выбирать немецкое – это стало правилом для многих поклонников хороших автомобилей, поскольку именно Porsche всегда воплощал идеал спортивной модели в глазах миллионов людей по всему миру.

В 1972 году создатель знаменитого автомобиля Фердинанд Александер Порше представил под брендом Porsche коллекцию одежды и аксессуаров – и тем самым заразил идеей выбирать немецкое и знатоков моды. С 2003 года серия выходит под маркой Porsche Design, и теперь ее дополнили чемоданы, часы, домашняя утварь и оправы для очков. Компания также занимается разработкой дизайна электронных устройств. Особое место среди них занимают технологичные смартфоны BlackBerry из нержавеющей стали: например, новая модель P’9982 доступна в корпусе из итальянской кожи, кожи аллигатора и других роскошных материалов.

В 2010 году бренд Porsche Design открыл собственную серию кожаной одежды и аксессуаров высочайшего качества. Ее вершиной стал жакет из мягкой кожи ягненка, эксклюзивность которого подтверждается тиражом: выпущено всего 200 экземпляров на весь мир. Кроме того, особого внимания в этой коллекции достойны куртка-пуховик из

лайковой замши и кожаный жакет Tec Flex с карманами на молнии и петлями для наушников.

Доктор Юрген Гесслер, исполнительный директор Porsche Design, точно определяет уникальность этой коллекции: «Она создает безусловную связь между функциональностью и эстетикой и органично вплетается в нашу концепцию. Базовая идея остается неизменной: мы не следуем за модными веяниями, а расставляем собственные акценты. И наше понимание повседневной роскоши придает коллекциям одежды уникальность».

Пожалуй, наиболее эффектно стиль и функция слились в фирменной модели TwinBag. Наибольший интерес представляет ее основная конструктивная особенность – регулируемые по длине ручки: закрепленные особым образом, они позволяют носить сумку и в руках, и через плечо. Лучшие мастер Флоренции вкладывают все свои умения в тщательную ручную обработку цельных кусков эксклюзивных видов кожи. Для подкладки используется мягчайшее волокно алькантара, а металлическая гарнитура из хрома, серебра, белого и розового золота обрабатывается с помощью гальванических воздействий. В результате, TwinBag гармонично объединяет итальянское мастерство и немецкий дизайн.

Сумка оказалась востребованной, и следующим этапом стало сотрудничество Porsche Design с берлинским художником Тьерри Нуаром: он вручную расписал TwinBag своими знаменитыми стилизованными сердцами. Обновленная версия легендарной модели была презентована на ярмарке Art Basel Miami Beach в 2013 году, а затем поступила в ассортимент избранных салонов Porsche Design в разных городах.

«Современный ритм жизни изменил наше отношение к миру, и единственной адекватной реакцией на это может быть сочетание минималистского дизайна и функциональности, - размышляет креативный директор Porsche Design Томас Штайнбрюк. – Таким образом, созданный нами образ оказался созвучен

будет вещь одного из немецких брендов.hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com

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76

美文翻译

40: Freshness In A Bottle

瓶中精灵

自香水诞生之日起,德国调香师就享有勇于创新

的美誉。今日的摩登香氛则继承了先辈的经典风

格,Gwyneth Holland报道

几个世纪以来,德国调香师对于香水界的贡献主要

表现在创新性与艺术性等方面。由Giovanni Maria

Farina于1709年调配出的eau de Cologne,素来

是德国最有名的香水,并在当时被欧洲宫廷广泛使

用。Farina表示这股清新的香调让他想起“一个意

大利春天的早晨,雨后的山谷百合与橙花。”——与

当时风头正劲的浓郁、香甜、单调的香氛不尽相同。

他的这款柑橘与草本香味的香水被命名为eau de

Cologne,以纪念调香师的第二故乡,而他也由此开

创了一类全新的香水风格。Farina的作品在三个世

纪以后仍在生产中。

Far ina的杰作还影响了世界上最知名的古龙

水——4711的诞生,经典的包装加上清爽辛香的味

道,使这款古龙水时至今日仍在世界各地广受欢迎。

这款如今所属于Mäurer&Wirtz香水公司的产品,

仍由原配方调制而成,而4711品牌则正在不断壮大

并吸引新的顾客群体。从男女皆可使用、简洁明快的

新Wunderwasser香水,到对于古龙水的意大利式

演绎——Acqua Colonia系列。

德国的新香水品牌或许还不具有标志性的4711

,或是法国香水品牌那样的国际影响力,但他们仍

继承着Far ina的衣钵,将艺术性、创新与个性加

入自己的作品中。“德国是一个倡导创新的国度,

这里的人们追组梦想,想要不断创造新的东西。

我们不仅重新审视与更新旧的方法,还想要建立

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этому новому стилю жизни: понятный, но не искусственный, повседневный и одновременно официальный. В частности, мы применяем новейшие техники обработки материалов, поэтому наши модели кажутся и хорошо знакомыми, и в то же время авангардными».

Вот уже четыре десятилетия Porsche Design по-прежнему следует дизайнерскому принципу своего основателя: «Чтобы создать форму объекта, необходима внимательно рассмотреть его функцию». И эта компания своим опытом последовательно подтверждает: форма должна быть не только функциональной, но и красивой.porsche-design.com

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77

德国制造拥有精密准确的国际声誉——这也适用于

该国的时尚品牌。一批德国顶尖品牌带来的冬季系

列都印证了这点,Clare Coulson报道

时尚正变得比任何时候都全球化,然而民族特色仍

未磨灭。美国人擅长制造奢华运动装,而在皮革制

作上无人能与意大利人比肩,巴黎仍旧是极致时髦

与女性化风格之圣地。此外,德国制造的精密性则

体现在从前沿科技到超级跑车等各行业,其同时适

用于该国的时尚品牌。

实用、纯净的设计与制造,永远兼顾功能性:德国

品牌在这个最佳时机,开始高举自己与生俱来的实

用主义旗帜。时尚界正经历一场剧烈的变革,各地

的奢侈品牌都意识到女人衣橱中真正需要的,是实

穿的服饰;是好看又易穿的不过时的经典款。

以Jason Wu在Hugo Boss品牌发表的首个系列

为例。Wu个人最出名的单品是轻浮放浪、极度奢华

的鸡尾酒会装,这或许与以锋芒锐利的男性化剪裁

出名的Hugo Boss并不匹配。然而二者的联姻却更

彰显了德国品牌的优势。在推出秋/冬系列之前,Wu

深入研究过品牌的完美主义传统,并开玩笑地将

Hugo Boss位于麦琴根的总部成为“校园”。然而那

份德国式的精密在Wu的设计中昭然若揭:时髦的双

面羊绒大衣,腰部装饰着简洁的黑色军用皮带;利落

的西装则搭配以简约的男孩风夹克与剪裁中性的西

装裤;而Wu的模特们肩上搭着的毛绒针织披肩可

以围至背后,看起来温暖又实用。

Wu并不是唯一考虑将实用主义融入高级时装的

设计师。Escada旗下的最新副线Escada Sport,

同样推出了不少实用的作品。毛皮夹克以贴身剪裁

并配以可收紧腰带;皮草领大衣或风衣为冬季带来

轻盈又温暖的包裹;闪光外套与夹克则采用轻质绗

缝线与填充物。以上系列都可搭配平底的男孩风鞋

履,即实穿又时髦。

Strenesse品牌也采取了类似的作法,运动感十足

的皮草装饰轻便风衣及夹克,可搭配时髦连衣裙与

打底裤,为冬日带来暖意。温暖的外套通体装饰着

绝缘皮草并辅以针织袖管,并且与Hugo Boss如出

一辙,时髦摩登的裤装,西装裤是系列中的明星,以

超高实用性以及时尚剪裁而脱颖而出,此外还有极

浅的鸽子灰、木炭色或温和的玫瑰米色宽松裤装可

供选择。

时装配件也变得实用起来。Stgrenesse以耐磨

的斜跨信封手袋,来搭配其简约的服装造型。在慕

尼黑的MCM,创意总监Michael Michalsky在设

计奢华手提包的初期,就以适合女性职业生涯为考

量;包中设有可收纳笔记本电脑、iPad等数码产品

46: Form And Function:

秀外慧中

新的标准,”来自小众香水品牌J F Schwarzlose

的TamasTagscherer表示,这个柏林的香水品

牌致力于制造体现这座城市风貌的奢华香氛。成

立于1856年的JF Schwarzlose,在设计师Lutz

Herrmann、调香师Véronique Nyberg与营销人

TamasTagscherer的带领下于2012年重新出发。品

牌旗下的最新香水Zeitgeist,使用琥珀、麝香和丁

香以及calone、edelonide等化合物调和,将柏林的

前卫、多变与感性封入瓶中。“今日德国香水品牌的形

象对多数人而言还是较为新奇与不同寻常的——他

们令人兴奋且创意十足,”Tagscherer表示。

汉堡的BiehlParfumkunstwerke等项目,通

过将香水提升至一种艺术形式,进一步巩固了德

国香水匠心独具、不同寻常的声誉。知名调香师

Thorsten Biehl与几位香水业内最受尊敬的闻香师

合作,创造出一系列限量版本的单一香调。远离商业

压力的Mark Buxton、ArturettoLandi、Patricia

Choux、Egon Oelkers与Geza Schoen等“香气艺

术家”,得以为真正的香氛鉴赏家们创造出独一无二

的香气。

Geza Schoen自己的香水品牌,Escent r ic

Molecules为香水爱好者们带来了意想不到的味

道。“对我的多数朋友而言,香水的味道总是太过

了,过甜、过重、果味过于浓郁...我觉得可能将香

气当做一顶光环来佩戴会更好,所以不同于传统

的香水,它必须是单调的,几乎是一维,但仍旧非

常性感的,”Schoen表示。他的Molecu les系列

下的“一维”香水都是以单一成分制成,例如龙涎

呋喃、vertiveryle acetate或是龙涎酮,而旗下的

Escentric系列则更为复杂,通过“在更大的香味

结构中把玩分子”来将古典与超现代风格的香调融

合。

在柏林的Frau Tonis,调香师使用更为私人化、

但不失启发性的手法。品牌以新香水勾起人们对过

去那些清冽且特征突出的香水的记忆,例如芳香扑

鼻的Aventure,以雪松木、琥珀、粉红胡椒等为主

香调,而让人联想起柏林著名的香椴树与紫罗兰的

Linde Berlin,则以1920年代为影星马琳黛德丽创

作的一款香水为基础。如果想创造一种真正独特的

招牌香味,不妨前往Checkpoint Charlie附近的

Frau Tonis门店自己调配,在纽约、米兰、巴塞罗那

和马德里的店铺中均有销售的Frau Tonis,是德国

香水仍对世界具有持续影响力的力证。品牌创始人

Stefanie Hanssen始终坚信,德国香水高品质与多

创新的声誉依然强盛。“香水必须来自法国或意大利

才会受到认可的时代已经结束了。”

m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com,

biehl-parfum.com,

escentric.com,

frau-tonis-parfum.com

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70: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球,尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,

环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free

Shopping)为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global

Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝

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从豪华的行李箱到出色的智能手机,保时捷设

计缔造了诸多让人垂涎三尺的单品。我们的编辑

Ruairidh Pritchard拜访了这个德国品牌

时尚和功用性有时候相互排斥:在很多情况下,它们

可以成为对立的两极。然而在谈到既实用又美观的

设计时,德国人就是专家。几十年来,购买德国制造

一直是许多汽车爱好者优先考虑的选择,而保时捷

更是成为了全世界机车狂热者眼中跑车的典范。

最近,保时捷的服装和配饰产品线又让时尚消

费者们开始考虑购买德国制造。该系列是由这个著

名的跑车品牌创始人费迪南德·亚历山大·保时捷

(Ferdinand Alexander Porsche)在1972年推出

的,并在2003年以“保时捷设计”的名义重新发布。

现在,这个系列的产品包括行李箱、腕表、家居用品

和眼镜。电子产品也被囊括在内,比如各种高端不

锈钢的黑莓智能手机:最新推出的P’9982系列有

多款机身饰面可供选择,其中包括意大利皮革和鳄

鱼皮的手机背面。

2010年,保时捷设计推出了其由高品质制造工艺

打造的精选设计皮革产品。该系列的主打产品之一

是一件由纳帕小羊皮制作的皮夹克,这款尊贵独享

的夹克全世界仅限量200件。其他的单品包括了一

款由超软小山羊皮绒面制造的羽绒外套和Tec Flex

皮夹克,后者更是将有盖拉链口袋和耳机线圈结合

在一起。

在谈到为什么设计皮革系列可以脱颖而出的原因

52: In Focus: Porsche Design

聚焦:保时捷设计

时,保时捷设计的CEO于尔根·盖斯勒(Juergen

Gessler)博士说:“它在功用性和美学之间创造了

紧密的联系,可以和我们的产品组合无缝连接。我们

的理念保持不变:我们不追随潮流,我们只创造属于

自己的品味。其结果是,随意潇洒的风格让我们的

服装系列独一无二。”

最能够展示出该品牌将功用性与时尚无缝对接

的例子可能是其招牌手袋——TwinBag。采用最

高档的皮革为原料,经过佛罗伦萨工匠们的精雕

细琢,TwinBag最显著的特点是其创新的携带概

念——可调节式手柄可以让这款包既可以作为传统

的手袋使用,又可以被当作肩包。

每一款包都是由一整块单独的皮革制成的,然后

由娴熟的工匠手工缝制。内衬由最柔软的Alcantara

材料制成,金属配件则包括铬、银、白金及玫瑰金,

并采用先进的电镀工艺抛光。这堪称意大利工艺和

德国设计的完美结合。 

TwinBag的成功促成了保时捷与柏林画家蒂

埃里·比诺(Thierry Noir)的合作。比诺将自己

招牌的手绘“心形脸”融入到TwinBag里,创作出

TwinBag特别版,并在2013年的巴塞尔迈阿密艺术

博览会展出。随后这款特别版的包在全世界选定的

保时捷设计专卖店出售。

“现代生活的速度改变了我们对世界的看法,唯

一合乎逻辑的结论是要将简约的设计与功用性相结

合。”保时捷设计的创意总监托马斯·施泰因布吕克

(Thomas Steinbrueck)说,“因此,我们创立了一

种风格,可以与新的生活环境和谐共存。它有结构但

又不能被定形,可以同时兼具休闲与正式。特别是,

我们运用了最新的材料研发技术,用于生产既让人

熟悉、又具有前瞻性的剪裁。”

在保时捷设计创立后的四十年,很显然它仍然遵

循了其创立者所设定的设计原则,是他主张“如果

分析一个物体的功能,其形式会变得显而易见”。就

保时捷设计来说,其形式不仅仅具有功用性,可能还

很明显,也十分美观。

porsche-design.com

的隔断,而背包的设计中则加入了可以收纳财物的

独立口袋。 

德国式的精准与技术,或许在运动服上结合并

体现地最为淋漓尽致。该国众多的世界顶尖的专业

运动品牌,从Adidas与Bogner到Porsche Design

与Schoffel,都是将时尚与高性能运动服结合的领

导者。Adidas借助2014年索契冬奥会上的英国队,

展现了自己的技术实力。品牌提供的“发热裤”,使用

一种可自身发热的材料,以确保运动员们能在最适

合的温度下进行热身,而使用热塑性聚氨酯制造的

Powerweb西服,则能够吸收并反馈弹力,从而减少

肌肉疲劳。这或许听起来很科幻,但当同样技术制成

的服饰在不久的将来出现在你的衣橱中时,你几乎

可以确信这必然是德国品牌首率先推出的。

hugoboss.com, escada.com,

strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com,

adidas.com, bogner.com,

porsche-design.com,

schofel.com

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79

When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free: 70

عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

التسوق من دون تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة أكث من تسوقك ف لدى الال دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتدخر

العال. التسوق حول مناطق أبرز 270,000 متجر ف

يتسوقون من دون الذين فلم ل تنضم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو Global Blue كل سنة؟ ما

عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلوالسهلة. Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا

1.تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاص

باليصالت. تحتفظ أن بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكر

2.أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة

الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحدمكاتب الستداد الخاصة بنا.

للتصال:[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

ثن أنفق حدا أدن قدره 25€ وادخر حتى %14.5 من مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليهمجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. فبعض الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب

استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.

البيض والزهري الشغول باستخدام تقنيات الطلء الكهربائة والتصميم اللان. ة اليطالي التطورة. إنه الدمج الثال للحرفي

الرسام بعد نجاح حقيبة TwinBag تم التعاون مع برسوماته الحقائب برلي. زخرف Thierry Noir القيم ف

عرضت قلوب” مبتكرا مجموعة خاصة القتبسة من “الوجوه ثم طرحت ف 2013Art Basel Miami Beach ومن

للبيع ف بعض محلت Porsche Design الختارة حولالعال.

يقول Thomas Steinbrueck، مدير التصميم لدىسعة بفعل للعال نظرتنا ت

Porsche Design: “تغي

الحياة العصية حيث بات الستنتاج النطقي الوحيد هو دمجة. لذا، ابتكرنا أسلوبا يتمش مع هذه التصميم البسيط بالعمليالبيئة الجديدة؛ أسلوبا منظملكن غي مركب، عمليا ورسميا فآن واحد. تجدر الشارة إل أننا استخدمنا أحدث تقنيات تطوير

الواد لبتداع قصات مألوفة ومبتكرة.”،Porsche Design بعد مرور أربع سنوات عل تأسيس

من الواضح أنها ما زالت تتبع مبادئ التصميم التي وضعهاسها الذي قال مرة إنه “لو حللت وظيفة قطعة معينة،

مؤسيتضح لك شكلها”. وف حالة Porsche Design، ليس الشكل

. جميل عمليا فحسب، وربا واضحا، بل أيضاporsche-design.com

过程:

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格

 (Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请

他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的

退税点领取您的退税款。

联系方式:

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请

注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管

理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取

现金退税手续费。

70: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

日本語翻訳

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利

用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に

ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に

なります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー

の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。

手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し

ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・

ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを

踏むだけです。

1.お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免

税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってくだ

さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認

印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付

事務所で払い戻しを受けます。

€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5

%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額

は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差

し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ

い。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望

の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され

ます。

Page 80: SHOP Cologne AW14

globalblue.com

80

الرهاق العضل. قد يبدو ذلك غي واقعي، لكن ل تتفاجأإن بدأت هذه التكنولوجيا تتسلل إل خزانتك ف الستقبل

القريب. وعل الرجح أنها ستكون من علمات تجارية ألانية.hugoboss.com ،escada.com ،strenesse.com

،mcmworldwide.com ،adidas.com

bogner.com ،porsche-design.com،schoffel.com

In Focus: Porsche Design : 52

Porsche Design :تحت الجهر

ة الميزة، تصمم من المتعة الفاخرة إل الهواتف الذكيالرغوبة. القطع واسعة من Porsche Design مجموعة

اللانية التجارية يزور Hamish Monk العلمة

ة والعكس صحيح: وف كثي غالبا ما تغيب الوضة بوجود العمليمن الحيان، قد يناقضا بعضهم البعض. لكن عندما نتحدث عنتصميم عمل وجميل ف الن عينه، يسطع نجم اللان. لطالا

Porsche ارات شاء العلمات اللانية وشكلت فضل محبو السية الول بالنسبة إل هواة الحركات حول العال. السيارة الرياضي

باللبس مؤخرا، تكن خط Porsche الخاص والكسسوارات من حمل متتبعي الوضة عل شاء تصاميم

Ferdinand قبل ألانية. أطلقت الجموعة سنة 1972 من Alexander Porsche، مؤسس السيارة الشهية. أعيد

إطلق العلمة سنة 2003 باسم Porsche Design لتشملة ونظارات. كم تضم أجهزة أمتعة وساعات ومستلزمات منزلية من ة مثل تشكيلة من هواتف BlackBerry الذكي إلكتوني

الفولذ العال الجودة القاوم للصدأ: يتوافر التصميم الكثبالجلد تصميم مغلف حداثة P’9982 بأناط مختلفة ومنها

اليطال أو جلد التمساح.سنة 2010، أطلقت Porsche Design مجموعتها منة عالية الجودة. ضمت الجموعة االسلع الجلدية البتكرة بحرفي

ستة جلدية من جلد النابا الدبوغ اقتصت عل 200قطعة حول العال. من القطع الخرى ستة مبطنة من الجلد

جيب ذات السويدي الفائق النعومة وستة Tec Flex جلدية بسحابات مقفلة وحلقات لسلك السمعات.

Porsche مدير ،Juergen Gessler يشح الدكتور: “تربط قائل الجلدية الجموعة ز Design التنفيذي، تي

ة والجمل بإتقان وتتمش مع منتجاتنا بانسيابية. ل يغي العمليذلك من مبدئنا؛ ل نتبع الوضة بل نبتكر أسلوبنا الخاص. بالتال،ة التي نخلقها ف ضمن فرادة مجموعاتنا ف تساهم الناقة العملي

مجال الزياء.”الفضل قد تكون حقيبة اليد الشهية TwinBag الثال ة والوضة. ابتكرت باستخدام عن دمج العلمة النسياب للعملي

أكث أنواع الجلود فرادة ونفذت بإتقان عل يد حرفيي فزت بطريقة حملها البتكرة. تتمتع بحملت قابلة فلورنس وتيللتعديل فتتيح للشخص حملها كحقيبة يد تقليدية أو تعليقها

عل الكتف.تصنع كل حقيبة من قطعة جلد واحدة، تقطب ف ما بعدطانة مصنوعة من مادة Alcantara الفائقة يدويا وبإتقان. البالنعومة وتشمل الكسسوارات العدنية الكروم والفضة والذهب

الفاخرة ف شتى بقاع الدنيا حاجة الرأة إل ملبس حقيقية؛تتمتع بشكل جميل ويسهل ارتداؤها.

لـ خذ عل سبيل الثال مجموعة Jason Wu الول النيقة ة العملي Hugo Boss. نظرا لشهرة Wu باللبس

العابثة بامتياز والفاخرة إل حد كبي، ربا ل يكن الخيار التوقعلعلمة تجارية معروفة بتصاميمها الذكورية الفائقة الدقة. لكنسلط هذا التعاون الضوء عل مكامن قوة العلمة اللانية. قبلالدروسة ة الثالي إطلق مجموعة الخريف/الشتاء، لح Wu إل

Hugo Boss التي تتبعها العلمة وأت ممزحا عل ذكر مقرالعصي ف Metzingen مسميا إياه “الحرم”. بالرغم

ة بوضوح ف ملبس Wu: معاطف من ذلك، تبز الدقة اللانيمزدوجة الوجه من الكشمي، مزودة بحزام عسكري أسود؛

ة منفذة بإتقان وساويل عملية؛ بدلت أنيقة ذات ستات شبابيبالضافة إل أوشحة محبوكة من الخمل الطويل تزين أكتاف

ة بامتياز. العارضات وتبدو دافئة لكن عمليلدمج بطريقة يفكر الذي الوحيد ليس Wu الصمم Escada Sport ة بالزياء الراقية. تشمل مجموعة العملي

ستات ة؛ منها العملي القطع الخية من Escada الكثي من من الفرو ملصقة للجسم مزودة بأحزمة؛ وستات مبطنة أو مندون أكمم مزودة بقبعات من الفرو، تنح الدفء وخفيفة الوزن؛معاطف وستات لاعة معزولة بحشوات وبطانات خفيفة الوزن. ة من دون كعب وقد تم تنسيق كل هذه القطع مع أحذية عملي

مصممة لتكون مريحة وفائقة الناقة. العملية الستات الوضع ممثل لدى Strenesse حيث الخفيفة الوزن ذات حواش من الفرو، تنح الدفء وتلبس معقة قة. ثة أيضا ستات ضي ة مرتبة وساويل ضي فساتي عمليHugo يكسوها الفرو من الداخل وعل الكمم. وعل غرار

Boss، تبقى البدلة العصية الصقولة هي التصميم البرز التميز

ة لكن الصمم ليبدو شديد الناقة، خصوصا مع ساويل بالعمليفضفاضة بأبهت ألوان الرمادي أو الفحمي أو البيج الزهري

الناعم.ة عل الكسسوارات تجدر الشارة إل تطبيق مبدأ العملي

صغية بحقائب التقنة أيضا. تكلل Strenesse تصاميمها MCM مزودة بسلسل لتحمل بشكل قطري. أما لدى علمةMichael Michalsky الواقعة ف ميونخ، فأعطى الصممحياة الرأة العملية الولوية لدى تصميمه حقائب فاخرة؛ ثة

ة مثل جهاز الكمبيوتر أقسام مخصصة للغراض التكنولوجيالحمول والـ iPad، ف حي زودت حقائب الظهر بجيب فردية

لحتواء الغراض الشخصية.ة والدراية التكنولوجية قد يكون الدمج المثل للدقة اللاني

ة العالية ف اللبس الرياضية. تأت العلمات التجارية اللانيBognerو Adidas ة مثل الشهرة الختصة باللبس الرياضيلدى مزج الصدارة وPorsche Design وSchoffel ف

عرض ة العملية. تكنت Adidas من الوضة باللبس الرياضيكافة إنجازاتها الجديدة عندما ألبست الفريق البيطان ف

سوتش. ابتكرت ة الشتوية 2014 ف مدينة اللعاب الولومبية التدفئة لتزويد العلمة “ساويل حرارة” وملبس ذاتي

ي بالحرارة الثالية ف خلل حصص التدريب، بالضافة إل الرياضيThermoplastic مصنوعة من مادة Powerweb بدلتلتقليص الرونة وتعيدها تحفظ طاقة Polyurethane ال

،

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Freshness In A Bottle: 40

إنتعاش ف زجاجة

ترجمة باللغة العربية

Eau ارون اللان بالبتكار منذ إطلق العطر الخفف

اشتهر العطبجدارة هذا الحديثة العطور تخلف de Cologne. واليوم

Gwyneth Holland الشذى الكلسيك، تقرير

اقتنت مساهمة العطارين اللان ف عال العطور بالبتكاروالباعة لقرون. ولطالا شكل Eau de Cologne العطرالشهر ف ألانيا؛ركبه Giovanni Maria Farina سنة

Farina أوروبا. قال الالكة ف الس كافة به 1709 وتعطرت

الشذى النعش ذكره بـ “صباح يوم إيطال ربيعي، حيث إنتفوح رائحة النجس الجبل وبراعم البتقال بعد الطر”، بعيدا

كل البعد عن العطور القوية الحلوة غي العقدة آنذاك. ابتكرEau de ات وبعض العشاب سمي عطرا من شذى الحمضينوعا جديدا تاما من Cologne تيمنا بدينته، وخلق معه

قرون. ثلثة بعد مرور العطور. ما زال ابتكار Farina ينتج تكن من التأثي عل أشهر عطر مخفف ف العال وهو 4711ة وشذاه الذي ما زال مشهورا عاليا لطريقة توضيبه الكلسيكي

Mäurer & اللطيف النعش. تتلكه اليوم شكة العطورتتوسع الصلية، لكن تركيبته بحسب يحض زال Wirtz وما

العلمة لتشمل جمهورا أكب من خلل عطورها الجديدةعل ة اليطالي والنساء ولستها Wunderwasser للرجال

.Acqua Colonia العطر الخفف ف مجموعةة الجديدة بعد النتشار ربا ل تحقق دور العطور اللاني

بعد تتمتع العالي الذي حققه عطر ناجح مثل 4711 ول Farina بطابع العطر الفرنس الميز لكنها تكمل عمل

الرائد من خلل تطعيم شذاها بالباعة والبتكار والفرادة. JF الراقية العطور علمة يقول Tamas Tagscherer من Schwarzlose، الواقعة ف برلي والختصة بالعطور الفاخرة

التي تعكس أسلوب الدينة، يقول: “ألانيا بلد البتكارات، حيثيعمل الناس عل أحلمهم ويطمحون إل خلق شء جديد.”

تأسست JF Schwarzlose سنة 1856 وأعيدLutz Herrmann الصمم إطلقها سنة 2012 بإدارة

Tamas التسويق والعطارة Véronique Nyberg وخبي باسم الشكة أطلقته الذي الخي العطر Tagscherer. يلخص

التغي وطابعها عل البتكرة وقدرتها برلي Zeitgeist روح

الحس من خلل العنب والسك وخشب الصندل المزوج معزالت مادت calone وedelonide. يقول Tagschere: “ما ة مختصة بالعطور جديدة وغي فكرة وجود علمة تجارية ألانيمألوفة بالنسبة إل معظم الناس، لذا يجدونها أمرا مبتكرا ومثيا

للهتمم.”Biehl تجدر الشارة إل أن بعض الشاريع مثل

ألانيا تعزز شهرة Parfumkunstwerke ف هامبورغ

بالعطور البتكرة غي العتيادية من خلل الرتقاء بالعطر إلمستوى الفن. يعمل العطار الشهي Thorsten Biehl معبعض أبرز الخباء ف مجال العطور ليبتكر روائح فريدة من

Mark ات محدودة. يكن “فنانو العطور” أمثال نوعها وبكمي

Buxton وArturetto Landi وPatricia Choux و

Engon Oelkers وGeza Schoen، ومن دون ضغوطات

ي. ي العطور الحقيقي زة لحب تسويقية، أن يبتكروا روائح مميبـ تقدم علمة العطور Escentric Molecules الخاصة

الدقيقي. متوقعة لخباء العطور غي Geza Schoen روائح

أصدقائ اعتب معظم الصدد: “لطالا تقول Schoen ف هذا العطر كثيا جدا، حلوا جدا، قويا جدا، معززا جدا برائحة

الفاكهة... ففكرت أنه من الستحسن استخدام الرائحة كهالةأكث منها كعطر نوذجي، لذا كان ل بد أن يكون طوليا، أحاديالبعد تقريبا، لكن شديد الجاذبية.” تقوم عطورها “الحادية

واحد مثل البعد” ف مجموعة Molecules عل مكون ،Iso E Super أو vertiveryle acetate أو ambroxan

خلل تعقيدا “من ف حي تأت مجموعة Escentric أكث التلعب بالجزيئة ف تركيبة عطر أكب” عب دمج العناص

ة والفائقة الحداثة مع بعضها البعض. الكلسيكيالعطارون برلي، فيعتمد أما لدى علمة Frau Tonis ف

ة ل تقل إلهاما عن غيها. تحيي العلمة مقاربة أكث خصوصيAventure زة من خلل روائح جديدة مثل عطور الاض المي

Lindeالكون من خشب الرز والعنب والفلفل الوردي وبرلي الشهية ف العطرة الزيزفون بأشجار يذكر الذي Berlin

Marlene Dietrich لـ ابتكر عطر وViolet الستوحى من ف العشينات. ولبتكار شذى فريد من نوعه، يكن زوار

Checkpoint بالقرب من برلي متجر Frau Tonis ف اليوم العلمة عطور الخاص. تباع عطرهم Charlie تركيب

ف محلت ف نيويورك وميلنو وبرشلونة ومدريد وهي خيمثال عل أثر ألانيا الستمر عل عال العطور. أسست العلمةاللانية العطور أن شهرة تؤمن Stefanie Hanssen التي

بالجودة والبتكار قوية كم كانت عل الدوام. “من الؤكد أنهول الزمن الذي كان ل بد فيه للعطر أن يأت من فرنسا أو إيطاليا

ليعرف.”،m-w.de ،schwarzloseberlin.com

،biehl-parfum.com ،escentric.com

frau-tonis-parfum.com

Form And Function: 46

الشكل والعملية

ة بالدقة عاليا با ف ذلك العلمات التجارية تشتهر الصناعة اللانية بالزياء. وقد استغنمت هذه الفرصة الجموعات

الختصClare Coulson الشتوية للعلمات البرز ف البلد، تقرير

مض،مع بروز كل بلد ف ة أكث من أي وقت باتت الزياء عالية الفاخرة وما ون باللبس الرياضي مجال معي. يتفوق الميكيمن أحد يضاهي الطليان بالجلود ف حي تبقى باريس مقصدا

للسلوب النيق النثوي. غالبا ما يتم الحديث عن الدقة اللانيةارات خارقة، ويكن ف كل شء من تكنولوجيا متقدمة إل سي

تطبيقها أيضا عل العلمات التجارية الختصة بالزياء.ة بالعملية والحتاف ف التصميم ز العلمات اللاني تتمي

والتصنيع فتفتخر بواقعيتها الفطرية التي تأت ف الوقت الناسبتاما. تشهد الزياء تغيا جذريا نتيجة إدراك العلمات التجارية

Page 82: SHOP Cologne AW14

82 | PRODUCTS

Souvenir

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70

the natural and the hand-painted. Unexpected

materials such as opal glass, ceramics, wood,

stone or rubber are intricately set alongside

luxurious crystal rhinestones. Each piece of

jewellery by Konplott is assembled by hand

in limited numbers, making this necklace

exclusive as well as enchanting. hl

Konplott necklace, €398,

Konplott, Mittelstrasse 29,

50672 Cologne,

+49 (0)221 258 9308,

konplott.com

* for map go to page 64

MIXED MATERIALS

Let German fne jewellery label Konplott

wash away your winter blues with this bright

and beautiful statement necklace. Founded by

designer Miranda Konstantinidou almost two

decades ago, the brand produces eye-catching,

colourful jewellery made from hand-selected

materials. As with this coral-coloured creation,

each piece is crafted from a wide variety of

beads and stones sourced from across the

world, and includes the old and the new,

Page 83: SHOP Cologne AW14

TOM TAILOR STORE KÖLN, HOHE STRASSE 137

Page 84: SHOP Cologne AW14

G o l d e n S w o r d S C l u tC h

Meissen®-Porzellan-shoP Köln · WallrafPlatz 3 · tel: 0221 2585677