shop cologne aw14
DESCRIPTION
ÂTRANSCRIPT
TOMMY HILFIGER STORESCHILDERGASSE 47KÖLN
If you are looking for a wide selection
of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,
you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 135 years, the name
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
expertise in the art of making jewellery
and timepieces. We offer a unique
selection of valuable treasures at 28
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
especially proud because for more than
a century we have been privileged to
contribute to the grand feelings that our
customers express when they purchase
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
jewellery uphold international standards
and are born in our own atelier. This is
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
as well as for our diverse assortment
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
links us with the world’s foremost watch
www.wempe.com.sdrac tiderc lla tpecca eW
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
showrooms at the loveliest locations
in great European metropolises, New
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
offers service or advice whenever you
require it, so you can be certain that we
will always be available to meet your
individual needs. We cordially invite you
to discover an abundance of interesting
new items and exclusive special models
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
look forward to your visit!
Köln, Hohe Straße 66,
T +49.(0)221.257 04 40
HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
Beauty and more …visit Europe’s
No. 1 perfumery!
• Schildergasse 39, 0221 - 920860• Hohe Straße 148–150, 0221 - 2575964• Trankgasse 11 (Colonaden, Hbf), 0221 - 1395047
WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO
THE DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN COLOGNE :
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.
With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN COLOGNE.
Schildergasse 109 · Einkaufszentrum Köln-Arcaden (Kalk) · Hohe Straße 94 ·
Rhein-Center (Weiden) · City-Center (Chorweiler)
CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut
&+5,67慤玉ଚ刧�㍤Ѣ㒐偸Ёᖗԡ㕂ˈ
ѻકક䋼ध� 玓Ⅵ餡啳� ┠ℒ�䑥ৡ
䗝ᢽЄ䔒DŽ刧ݙ偉ጨᅦਬ䗮爇�瀃 䚼‐
Փ�Ё瀃玓ⅥDŽফЁ㊁�㘨ҬDŽ
www.christ.de
Passion. Made in Germany.
The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.
Experience diamonds in a whole new way
at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores
throughout Germany.
Only at CHRIST
CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring*
585/- gold with rhodolites and
brilliant cut diamonds, together
approx. 0.15 ct.**
Emma Cheevers
Editor’s Letter
10
/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
Welcome to Cologne
Even if you’ve visited Cologne before, you may be surprised to discover
the city’s infuence on Germany’s innovative perfume scene – fnd out
more in our feature on page 40. In this edition, we also take an in-depth
look at the country’s immaculately designed winter fashions (page 46)
and discover Porsche Design’s desirable collections (page 52).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,
and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to
tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination:
the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the
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For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier
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With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global
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Montblanc Star Classiqueand Hugh Jackman
Crafted for New Heights
Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover
Enjoy the perfect shopping trip
With 36,000 m², GALERIA Kaufhof in Co-
logne’s Hohe Straße is one of the largest de-
partment stores in Europe which combines
tradition and modernity. Located in the heart
of the cathedral city, where the shopping
precincts Hohe Straße and Schildergasse
meet, it offers customers the ultimate shop-
ping experience. Enjoy top international
brands and latest trends in our fascinating
fashion, beauty, home, sport and gourmet
food departments. The traditional depart-
ment store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th
anniversary with special offers and events.
If you come from a country outside the EU,
you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at
GALERIA Kaufhof!
Please scan the QR-code with your smart-
phone to get more information about your
GALERIA store Cologne, Hohe Strasse.
COLOGNE
HOHE STRASSE
fashion | lifestyle | beauty
GALERIA Kaufhof...
... makes you fall in
love with Germany
www.galeria.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
Contributors
16
globalblue.com
Milkha Lala
Milkha Lala, one of SHOP’s
artworking assistants, has
studied fne art, photography
and flm. An avid follower
of digital arts and cinema,
his interests include Beat
Generation authors, vintage
guitars and Italian food.
Clare Coulson
Journalist Clare Coulson is
the former fashion editor
of the Daily Telegraph and
former fashion director of
Harper’s Bazaar, for which she
is currently contributing editor.
She also writes for publications
from Net-A-Porter to InStyle.
Gwyneth Holland
Journalist and trend consultant
Gwyneth Holland works with
leading brands and agencies
to discover the future, as well
as writing for global fashion
and trend publications. She is
also a founder of fashion trends
service Unique Style Platform.
Nathalie Lees
Illustrator Nathalie Lees
created the cover for this
season’s edition of SHOP
Cologne, inspired by our
feature about the city’s classic
fragrances and Germany’s
innovative perfume producers
on page 40. Nathalie enjoys
conceptualising ideas into
simple, elegant images and
her versatility has allowed her
to work on projects ranging
from window displays to iPad
apps. She gets her inspiration
from flms, old magazines
and a good night’s sleep.
Read more about
our illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
ILL
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Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions
CoLogne am neumarkt Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM
Shop Floor
18
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury
or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Nathalie Lees
Contributors
Clare Coulson, Gwyneth Holland
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
Ximena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editors
Hannah Lewis,
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistant
Gemma Latham
Editorial intern
Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Dorcas Brown
Assistant picture editors
Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Picture assistants
Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Picture intern
Rubi Ali
Artworker
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Hibba Sayeed
Online editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online editorial assistant
Katie Ramsingh
Online assistants
Marina Nelson,
Emily Scrivener
Commercial editor
Justine Clifton
Commercial artworking assistant
Aaron Carline
Commercial artworking interns
George Trinick,
Ellie Vigors
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,
Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Chinese interns
Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Assistant Russian editor
Kira Savchenko
Russian editorial assistant
Linda Blank
Russian translators
Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Japanese editor
Kyoko Nishimoto
Digital manager
Eamonn Leacy
Digital production manager
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Project manager
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marketing executive
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Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital production assistant
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Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnership manager
Claudia Suárez
Dane Consultancy
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Thorsten Lind
Country manager
Jörg Schönbeck
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Michael Mauerhoff
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Mareike Dieckmann
Global Blue Germany,
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40470 Düsseldorf,
Regional tourist office
Cologne Tourist Board,
Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 346430,
cologne-tourism.de
SHOP is published by Global Blue
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FO S SIL S TO RES C O LO GNE
H O H E S T R . 14 4 -14 6 · EH R EN S T R . 1-3
W W W.FO S SIL .C O M
Contents
20
Above: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15
p.46
52 In Focus: Porsche Design
From luxury luggage to standout
smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible
for a wide range of desirable pieces.
Ruairidh Pritchard visits the German label
Gu i De
57 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of Cologne, plus useful information for
visitors
e sse n t i a l s
70 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving money
on your shopping
t R a nsl at ions
72 Русский Перевод
76 美文翻译
79 日本語翻訳
81
sou v e n i R
82 the essential item to bring home
PRoDuCts
22 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece from
Cologne this season
26 My Favourites
accessories designer Michelle elie reveals
her top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15
28 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion
and footwear to jewellery and accessories
n e ws
34 Shop Window
one store not to be missed in Cologne
36 News
seasonal updates on shops, services
and new products
F e at u R e s
40 Cover Story: Freshness In A Bottle
German perfumers have had a reputation
for innovation since eau de Cologne was
created. today’s modern fragrances are
worthy successors to this classic scent,
reports Gwyneth Holland
46 Form And Function
German manufacture enjoys an
international reputation for precision –
and this extends to its fashion brands,
writes Clare Coulson
DIVEMASTERSWISS CHAMP SPECTRA
FRAGRANCEEXPLORER JACKET
SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.VICTORINOX.COM
FLAGSHIP STORE DÜSSELDORF I KÖNIGSALLEE 88 I 40212 DÜSSELDORF
BRAND STORE KÖLN I WALLRAFPLATZ 2 I 50667 KÖLN
FUNCTIONALITY IS PARTOF OUR FAMILY.
PH
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Check Out
22 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
the attention of the most stylish Parisians. Today each scarf is woven from the silk of 250 silkworm cocoons. Each design takes years to create as skilled artists search for the perfect inspirations and motifs before selecting the exact shades to be individually screen-printed. The company is constantly developing to remain at the top of its game and a scarf from Hermès is a piece of heritage made modern. hlHermès Minuit au Faubourg scarf, €250, Hermès, Domkloster 2A,50667 Cologne,+49 (0)221 420 7560,hermes.com
* for map go to page 60
HERITAGE MADE MODERN
A strong contender for the title of the world’s most famous scarf-maker, Parisian fashion house Hermès has been creating beautiful silk squares since 1937. The brand has a rich equestrian heritage, refected in the horse motif of this design, which has been thoroughly modernised with a comic book-style interpretation. The frst Hermès scarves were made with innovative yarn spun from raw Chinese silk, immediately attracting
It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!
Made in Germany
Life tastes great.
Grand Gourmet
Knife set 5 pieces
instead of 384,75* 289,–
*sum of the prices
Cookware set 4 pieces
instead of 496,95* 399,–
Premium OneCromargan®
WMF StoresKölnwww.wmf.de/flialen
Schildergasse 106-108, Tel. 0221/2576572
Hohe Straße 134, Tel. 0221/2575888
Köln, Breite StraßeKarstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen
Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most
important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and
comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.
Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory
service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.
Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey
through our store Karstadt Köln.
Fashion, Lifestyle & more
26 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
American-Haitian designer and former model
Michelle Elie established accessories label Prim
in 2010. As well as producing unusual and highly
covetable jewellery and handbags, she has worked
as a fashion stylist and as editor of fashion-meets-art
magazine Garage. Elie, who lives in Cologne, shares
her fashion loves and city tips with Hannah Lewis
1. ‘My favourite designer
is Nicolas Ghesquière,
the new creative director
at Louis Vuitton’
Louis Vuitton handbag, €3,800,
Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828,
louisvuitton.com
My Favourites: Michelle elie
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SHOP | 27
2. ‘Laura Mercier’s Almond
Coconut Milk Soufé Body
Crème is a must-have for a
little personal luxury and self
pampering. I take jars of it
in my suitcase on my travels.
It is also a perfect little gift’
Laura Mercier Soufé Body
Crèmes, 300g, €63 each,
Douglas, Trankgasse 11,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 139 5047,
lauramercier.com
3. ‘This Rabbit bag has
become an icon for me
and Prim because of its
playfulness and poetry.
I love the combination of
gold and silver mixed with
leather, which makes this
bag appropriate for both
day and night’
Prim Rabbit bag, price on request,
Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78,
50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 946 1172,
michelleelie.com
4. ‘I love all the Molecule
perfumes by Geza Schoen.
I always switch between
Molecule 01 and Escentric
01, or sometimes mix the
two together. Somehow
the perfume melds with
the natural pheromones
of the wearer’
Molecule 01 fragrance, 100ml,
€115, Apropos, Mittelstrasse 12,
50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 5190,
escentric.com
5. ‘I fnd that shoes from
Prada and Miu Miu are
always experimental, fnding
new shapes and new materials,
exuding a great sense of fun
and humour while telling
a story’
Miu Miu boots, €690,
miumiu.com
4
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28 | PRODUCTS
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Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
4. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99,
Douglas, Neusser Strasse 252,
50733 Cologne, +49 (0)221 739 3860,
michaelkors.com
3. Cos polo neck, €49,
Cos, Ehrenstrasse 33-35,
50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9057,
cosstores.com
1. Swarovski earrings, €49,
Swarovski, Wallrafplatz 8,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9506,
swarovski.com
2. Roeckl handbag, €679,
Roeckl, Hohe Strasse 160-168,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 0287,
roeckl.com
ORANGE BURST
Clever layering and a mix of
textures and colours will keep
you warm yet streamlined
this winter
1
2
3
4
globalblue.com
SHOP | 29
7. Mango skirt, €49.99,
Mango, Hohe Strasse 90,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 920 7630,
mango.com
5. Gina Tricot gilet, €29.95,
Gina Tricot, Schildergasse 52,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2726 0890,
ginatricot.com
6. Louis Vuitton scarf, €595,
Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828,
louisvuitton.com
5
6
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30 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
6. Bang & Olufsen H6 headphones,
€399, Bang & Olufsen,
Apostelnstrasse 9-11, 50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 257 3668,
bang-olufsen.com
7. Victorinox backpack, €110,
Victorinox, Wallrafplatz 2,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 2806 7270,
victorinox.com
4. Rimowa suitcase, €389,
Rimowa, Am Hof 3,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 1681 2079,
rimowa.com
5. Closed shirt, €169,
Closed, Apostelnstrasse 14-17,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 2587 9584,
closed.com
1. Diesel jacket, €750,
Diesel, Ehrenstrasse 69,
50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 4550,
diesel.com
2. AM Shoe Company boots, €99.95,
Rolandschuhe, Schildergasse 49,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 925 3726,
amshoes.de
3. Montblanc watch, €3,490,
Montblanc, Wallrafplatz 7,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 250 9580,
montblanc.com
PEAK PERFORMANCE
Practical clothes needn’t be dull. Padded jackets
and hard-wearing boots can make a style statement
1
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SHOP | 31
2 5
6 7
3
4
shop calvinklein.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
Shop Window
34 | N E WS
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what really stands out is the service. Years of experience in menswear give the friendly, knowledgeable staf members great insight into just what the discerning male is looking for in terms of style, quality and service. They will fnd out exactly what you need and procure it for you with speed and precision. hlEbinghaus, Glockengasse 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 7390, ebinghaus-koeln.de
* for map go to page 65
STANDOUT SERVICE
Stylish gentlemen should be sure to pay a visit to Ebinghaus while in Cologne. Opened in 1975, the store brings high-quality Italian menswear to Germany, ofering a range of clothing for business, leisure and evening occasions. The selection is impressive, ofering pieces from brands such as Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna and Cerruti 1881, but
ecco.com
ECCO Store Cologne – Breite Strasse 42-46 - +49 (0) 221 57164727ECCO Store Düsseldor f – Grabenstrasse 3 - +49 (0) 211 86325086ECCO Store Oberhausen – Centro Oberhausen – Centroal lee 137 - +49 (0) 208 2994658
SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN
for EVERYONE
36 | NEWS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
LOCAL LEGEND
One of Germany’s fastest-
growing fashion brands, Gerry
Weber ofers high-quality
fashion clothing and accessories
for modern women. The brand
started in 1973 as a small
business and today has grown to
ofer fve separate lines, which
cater to women of all ages, in
all aspects of their lives. In the
spacious Gerry Weber store on
Schildergasse, visitors will fnd
a range of pieces from these
various lines. As well as the
mainline collection, the store
ofers Gerry Weber Edition, a
range of fashion-forward casual
wear, the Samoon line, which
caters for all shapes and sizes
without compromising on style,
and the youthful and trend-led
Taifun and GW lines. hl
Gerry Weber,
Schildergasse 113,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 2589 9934,
gerryweber.com
* for map go to page 65
CONFIDENT STYLE
Fashion boutique
Heimat has always set out
to ofer something unique
to Cologne. The store
initially stocked pieces
from a selection of young
Belgian designers, including
Veronique Branquinho,
Bruno Pieters and Raf
Simons. Today it presents
a broader collection of
menswear and womenswear,
from labels such as
Christophe Lemaire,
Issey Miyake and Comme
des Garçons. The vision
is to ofer a collection of
amazing pieces, relevant
to the current evolution
of fashion, with a focus on
the silhouette. Co-founder
Andreas Hoyer describes the
Heimat customer as a person
with the self-confdence
to express themselves and
who likes to dress as though
every day is an occasion. gl
Heimat,
Mauritiuswall 76-78,
50676 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 946 1172,
heimat-koeln.de
SHOP | 37
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SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app to
help you to plan your trip. The app gives
information on 45 cities in 22 countries
– thousands of stores are listed and
located on maps, with full contact details
and a description of what each store
sells. Our maps guide you right to the
store and can also be downloaded for
offline use enabling you to create your
own itinerary. You can also sign up for
the Global Blue Card and, once you’re
logged in the My Tax Refund wallet
becomes available, allowing you to track
pending refunds. The app is available
in Chinese, English and Russian, and
includes a Tax Refund Calculator to
tell you how much you’ll save on every
purchase you make in every different
country you visit. There are also
instructions on how to use Currency
Choice, our service that allows you
to pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
WONDERFUL WEINGARTEN
Luxury department store
Weingarten is a must-visit
store on any trip to Cologne.
The four-storey boutique
ofers one of the best selections
of menswear, womenswear
and childrenswear in the city.
From Hugo Boss to Ralph
Lauren, many of the world’s
premier fashion labels can
be found here, and alongside
regular sizes, Weingarten
also provides speciality sizes.
Whatever your needs, highly
trained members of staf are
available to make sure you fnd
the ideal clothes and that you
feel great wearing them. hl
Weingarten, Friesenplatz 19,
50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 951 4150,
weingarten-mode.de
* for map go to page 62PH
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38 | NEWS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
MIX AND MATCH
Take 1940s silhouettes and
separates, add a little grunge
with slouchy jumpers, leather
and animal print, throw in
some brightly dyed faux fur,
quirky headwear and statement
necklaces, and you start to
build a picture of the eclectic
vision presented by Marc Cain
this season. The collection,
JEWELS OF GERMANY
The story of Wempe
began over 135 years ago with
a young watchmaker named
Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm
Wempe, whose eye for quality
and skills in marketing
soon got him noticed by
powerful clients. His watch
designs were beautiful and
accomplished, and by 1907
his success had allowed
him to open a fagship in
Hamburg. The core values
of beauty and quality have
remained paramount within
Wempe, which is still a family-
run company to this day. This
striking Wempe necklace
is an absolute showstopper;
purchase it as a gift for another
or a gift for yourself. hl
Wempe,
Hohe Strasse 66,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 257 0440,
wempe.de
* for map go to page 61
which is like a dressing-
up box of mix-and-match
separates, almost shouldn’t
work – but it does. Select pieces
at random and you can have
faith that they will combine
to create that perfect vision
of nonchalance that is usually
so hard to achieve. gl
Marc Cain,
Mittelstrasse 12-14,
50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 250 9383,
marc-cain.com
* for map go to page 64 PH
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Welcome at Deiter jeweler!
In our store you get the original brand watches, gold jewelery,
diamonds and jewelery trend at attractive prices.
Of course, we can advise you in english and chinese too,
please contact us.
Köln � Schildergasse 50 www.juwelier-deiter.de
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SHOP | 41
German perfumers have had a reputation for innovation since eau de Cologne was created. Today’s modern fragrances are worthy successors to this classic scent, reports Gwyneth Holland
honour of his adopted home town, and he created a whole new genre of fragrances in the process. Farina’s invention is still in production three centuries later.
Farina’s work went on to infuence the world’s most recognisable eau de Cologne, 4711, which remains hugely popular around the world, both for its classic packaging and its light, zesty scent. Now owned by fragrance company Mäurer & Wirtz, the cologne is still made to its original formula, but the 4711 brand is expanding to reach new audiences, from its breezy new Wunderwasser perfumes for men
Freshness in a bottle
German perfumers’ contributions to the world of fragrance have been characterised by innovation and artistry for centuries. Eau de Cologne has long been Germany’s most famous perfume, created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 and worn by all the royal courts of Europe. Farina said that the fresh scent reminded him of ‘an Italian spring morning, of mountain dafodils and orange blossoms after the rain’ – a world away from the heady, sweet, unsophisticated perfumes of the time. His citrus scent with herbal undertones was named eau de Cologne in
42 | FEATURES
Previous page: 4711 eau de Cologne
German ‘fragrance artists’ are creating distinctive scents for the true perfume connoisseur
and women to an Italian twist on eau de Cologne,
through its Acqua Colonia collection.
Germany’s newer perfume houses
may not yet have the global reach of an icon
like 4711, or the cachet of French perfume,
but they are continuing Farina’s pioneering
work by building artistry, innovation and
individuality into their fragrances. ‘Germany
is a country of innovations, where people are
working on their dreams and want to create
something new. We don’t just rethink old ways
and refresh them, we want to establish new
standards,’ says Tamas Tagscherer of niche
perfume brand JF Schwarzlose, a Berlin-based
house that specialises in luxurious perfumes
that epitomise the city’s style. Founded in 1856,
JF Schwarzlose was relaunched in 2012 with
designer Lutz Herrmann, perfumer Véronique
Nyberg and marketer Tamas Tagscherer at the
helm. The brand’s latest fragrance, Zeitgeist,
encapsulates Berlin’s avant-garde spirit, its
changeability and its sensuality through amber,
musk and leatherwood combined with synthetic
notes such as calone and edelonide. ‘The image
of a German perfume brand today is still
something new and unusual for most people
– they fnd it exciting and innovative,’
says Tagscherer.
Projects such as Hamburg’s Biehl
Parfumkunstwerke are enhancing Germany’s
/72 7681
SHOP | 43
Above (clockwise from lef): JF Schwarzlose perfume production from years gone by; Escentric Molecules 03 fragrance; Zeitgeist and other fragrances by JF Schwarzlose; the brand’s historical advert for the 1A-33 fragrance
reputation for creative, unusual perfumes even
further by elevating fragrance to an art form.
Renowned perfumer Thorsten Biehl works
with some of the perfume industry’s most
respected noses to create singular scents
available only in very limited editions. Free
from commercial pressures, ‘fragrance artists’
such as Mark Buxton, Arturetto Landi,
Patricia Choux, Egon Oelkers and Geza
Schoen are able to create distinctive scents
for the true perfume connoisseur.
Geza Schoen’s own perfume brand,
Escentric Molecules, ofers unexpected
fragrances for perfume purists. ‘For most
of my friends, perfume was always too much,
too sweet, too heavy, too fruity... I thought
it would be nice to wear [scent] more like an
aura rather than a typical perfume, so it had
to be really linear, almost one-dimensional, yet
very sexy,’ says Schoen. The ‘one-dimensional’
perfumes in his Molecules collection are based
on a single ingredient, such as ambroxan,
vertiveryle acetate or Iso E Super, while his
44 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from lef): perfumer Thorsten Biehl; Frau Tonis Berlin store; the brand’s fragrances
Escentric collection is more intricate,
‘playing with the molecule in a larger
perfume structure’ by weaving both
classical and ultramodern notes together.
At Frau Tonis in Berlin, the perfumers
take a more personal, but no less inspirational,
approach. The brand evokes the clear, distinct
perfumes of the past through new fragrances
such as the aromatic Aventure, with its notes
of cedar wood, amber and pink pepper, Linde
Berlin, which evokes Berlin’s famously fragrant
linden trees and Violet, based on a perfume
created for Marlene Dietrich in the 1920s.
To create a genuine signature scent, visitors
to the Frau Tonis Berlin store near Checkpoint
SHOP | 45
German perfumes’ reputation for quality and innovation is as potent as ever
Charlie can compose their own. Now available
at boutiques in New York, Milan, Barcelona
and Madrid, Frau Tonis is an example of
Germany’s continuing infuence on the
perfume world. The brand was founded
by Stefanie Hanssen, who believes that
German perfumes’ reputation for quality
and innovation is as potent as ever. ‘The times
in which perfume had to come from France
or Italy to get recognised are defnitely over.’
m-w.de,
schwarzloseberlin.com,
biehl-parfum.com,
escentric.com,
frau-tonis-parfum.com
Form
Function
German manufacture enjoys an international reputation for precision – and this extends to its fashion brands. This winter’s collections from the country’s top labels are all the better for it, says Clare Coulson
46 | F E AT U R E S
And
SHOP | 47
48 | FEATURES
German designers are fusing pragmatism with high fashion – the results are functional yet also super-chic
Fashion is more global than it has ever
been, yet national characteristics prevail.
The Americans excel at luxe sportswear,
no-one produces such beautiful leather as the
Italians and Paris remains the destination for
utterly chic and feminine style. And, while
the idea of German precision is frequently
discussed in relation to everything from
cutting-edge technology to supercars, it can
be applied equally to the country’s fashion labels.
Practical, immaculately designed and
manufactured, always functional: German
brands are starting to celebrate their innate
pragmatism and their timing couldn’t be better.
Fashion is experiencing a dramatic sea-change
as luxury brands everywhere realise that what
women really need in their closets are real
clothes; timeless building blocks that look
good and are easy to wear.
Take, for example, Jason Wu’s debut
collection for Hugo Boss. Wu, who is best
known for his utterly frivolous, incredibly
luxurious cocktailwear, wasn’t perhaps the
most obvious choice for a brand renowned
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Previous page: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15 /73 7781
SHOP | 49
Above (clockwise from lef): Hugo Boss cashmere coat; Hugo Boss catwalk show; Escada Sport; Escada Sport Manteau jacket, all autumn/winter 2014/15
for its pin-sharp masculine tailoring. Yet the
marriage has only served to highlight the
strengths of the German brand. Ahead of his
autumn/winter debut Wu alluded to the brand’s
studied perfectionism, jokingly referring to
the unapologetically modern Hugo Boss HQ
in Metzingen as ‘the campus’. Yet that sense
of German precision is clear in Wu’s clothes:
the sleekest double-faced cashmere coats,
circled at the waist with a neat black military
belt; the neat trouser suits with immaculately
tailored boyish jackets and gamine tailored
trousers; and the plush knitted capes sitting
high on Wu’s models’ shoulders before
swooping down behind, which look warm
yet eminently practical.
Wu isn’t the only designer rethinking
how to fuse pragmatism with high fashion.
Escada’s latest Escada Sport edition is packed
with equally practical pieces. Fur jackets are
cut close to the body and cinched with belts;
parkas or gilets with fur hoods ofer a cosy
but lightweight way to wrap up in winter; glossy
coats and jackets are insulated with lightweight
quilting and padding. All are paired with fat,
PH
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50 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from lef): Strenesse cross-body envelope bag, autumn/winter 2014/15; Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen; Strenesse ; MCM, both autumn/winter 2014/15
Sportswear offers a particularly potent mix of German precision and tech know-how
boyish shoes designed to be functional yet
super-chic.
At Strenesse it’s a similar story, with
sporty, fur-trimmed lightweight parkas and
jackets providing warmth over sleek day dresses
and leggings. Snug jackets are ofered with
insulating fur across the body and knit on the
sleeves. And, just as at Hugo Boss, the sleek,
modern trouser suit reigns supreme, valued
for its practicality but cut to look super-stylish,
with slouchy trousers in palest dove grey,
charcoal or soft rose beige.
Accessories get the practical treatment
too. Strenesse tops its clean-cut looks with
eminently wearable cross-body envelope bags.
At Munich-based MCM, creative director
Michael Michalsky’s sumptuous totes have
been designed with women’s working lives
at the forefront of the design process; separate
compartments are incorporated for tech
gadgets such as laptops and iPads, while
rucksacks are designed with individual pockets
in which to compartmentalise possessions.
But it’s perhaps in sportswear where
German precision and tech know-how mix
most potently. The country’s world-class
performance sportswear brands, from Adidas
SHOP | 51
and Bogner to Porsche Design and Schofel,
lead the way when it comes to combining
fashion with extreme sportswear. Adidas was
able to show of all its latest developments when
it dressed the British team at the 2014 Winter
Olympics in Sochi. The brand supplied ‘heat
pants’, self-heating garments that ensure the
optimum temperature for athletes during their
warm-up sessions, and Powerweb suits made
with a thermoplastic polyurethane that stores
and returns elastic energy to reduce muscle
fatigue. This may sound very sci-f, but don’t
be surprised if the very same technology starts
to appear in your wardrobe in the not-too-
distant future. And you can bet it will be
German brands who ofer it frst
hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com,
mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com,
porsche-design.com, schofel.comPH
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SHOP | 53
From luxury luggage to standout smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible for a wide range of desirable pieces. Ruairidh Pritchard
visits the German label
Porsche Design
IN FOCUS:
Fashion and functionality are sometimes mutually exclusive: in many cases, they can be polar opposites. However when it comes to design that is practical as well as beautiful, the Germans are experts. Buying German has been a priority for many car lovers for decades, with Porsche being the go-to sports model for motor enthusiasts the world over.
More recently, Porsche’s line of clothing and accessories has brought fashionable
consumers around to the idea of buying German. The collection was introduced in 1972 by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, the founder of the renowned car. Relaunched in 2003 as Porsche Design, the collection now encompasses luggage, timepieces, homeware and eyewear. Electronic products are also included under the umbrella, such as a range of high-end stainless steel BlackBerry smartphones: the most recent,
54 | FEATURES
Speaking about why the engineered
leather range stands out, Dr Juergen Gessler,
Porsche Design’s CEO, says, ‘It creates an
uncompromising link between functionality
and aesthetics and fts seamlessly into our
product portfolio. Our concept remains
unchanged: we don’t follow trends, we
set our own accents. The result is that our
version of casual chic makes our fashion
collections unique.’
Perhaps the best example of the brand’s
seamless combination of functionality and
fashion is its signature handbag, the TwinBag.
Created using the most exclusive leathers
and expertly crafted by artisans in Florence,
the TwinBag’s most distinguishing feature
is its innovative carrying concept – adjustable
handles which allow the bag to be worn either
as a traditional handbag or as a shoulder bag.
Each bag is produced from a single
piece of leather, which is then expertly
stitched by hand. The lining is made from
the softest Alcantara material and the metal
fttings, including chrome, silver, white gold
and rose gold, are fnished using advanced
electroplating procedures. This is the perfect
combination of Italian craftsmanship and
German design.
the P’9982, is available in an array of fnishing
options, including a body which is backed
with Italian leather or with crocodile leather.
In 2010 Porsche Design launched its
selection of engineered leather products,
created through high-quality craftsmanship.
The collection has featured a leather jacket
made from nappa lambskin, which was
so exclusive it was limited to 200 pieces
worldwide. Other items include a duvet
jacket crafted from super-soft kidskin
suede and the Tec Flex leather jacket, which
incorporates covered zip-pockets and loops
for headphone cables.
PH
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Previous page: ferdinand Alexander Porsche /75 7880
SHOP | 55
The success of the TwinBag led to a
collaboration with the Berlin-based painter
Thierry Noir who took the TwinBag and
incorporated his own signature handpainted
‘heart faces’ to create a special edition which
was presented at the 2013 Art Basel Miami
Beach and then made available to purchase
from selected Porsche Design stores worldwide.
‘The speed of modern life has changed
our perception of the world and the only logical
conclusion is the combination of minimalist
design and functionality,’ says Porsche Design’s
creative director Thomas Steinbrueck.
‘Therefore, we have created a look that works
in harmony with this new living environment.
Structured but not constructed. Casual and
formal at the same time. In particular, we
have used the latest techniques of materials
development for the production of familiar
and yet forward-looking cuts.’
Four decades after its creation, it’s clear
that Porsche Design still follows the design
principles set by its founder, who maintained
that ‘if you analyse the function of an object,
its form often becomes obvious’. In the case
of Porsche Design, the form is not only
functional, and perhaps obvious, but beautiful
porsche-design.com
Above (from lef): Dr Juergen Gessler, CEO of the Porsche Design Group; Porsche Design x Thierry Noir TwinBag installation at Art Basel Miami Beach 2013; Porsche Design menswear autumn/winter 2014/15
PH
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Guide
GUIDE | 57
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Cologne
with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to go for the best
sweet treats in town to a spa with panoramic views of the city. Start with
SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-
travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out
globalblue.com/cologne.
A GlimPSe OF COlOGne
Cologne’s Romanesque Saint Kunibert’s church is known for its rich furnishings,
preserved from the Middle Ages. Note the ornate murals in the chancel, the
original fooring surrounding the high altar and the windows from the early
13th century.
PH
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globalblue.com
58 | GUIDE
Cologne
HotelTrain StationU-BahnPlace Of Interest
Tourist Information Shopping Centre/Mall
E HRENSTR ASSE
BREITE STR ASSE
RICHARD-WAGNER-STR ASSE
ROONSTRASSE
HO
HE
NS
TAU
FE
NR
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HO
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NZ
OL
LE
RN
RIN
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BISMARCKSTR ASSE
KYOTOSTRASSE
A ACHENER STR. HAHNENSTR ASSE NEUMARKT
HANS-BÖCKLER-PLATZ/BF. WEST
CHRISTOPHSTR./MEDIAPARK
MOLTKESTR.
ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
RUDOLFPLATZ
FRIESENPLATZAPPELLHOFPLATZ
NEUMARKT
MAURITIUSKIRCHE
POSTSTR.
HOME 4711
ST. GEREON CHURCH
ST. APOSTELN CHURCH
Hotel Boulevard
Pullman Hotel
Barcelo Hotel
MercureFriesenstrasse
Hotel imWasser turm
Hopper Et Cetera
Hotel Esplanade
Rennaissance
page
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SHOP | 59
HO
HE
ST
RA
SS
E
AUGUSTINES T R ASSE
MÜHLENBACH
KO
NR
AD
-AD
EN
AU
ER
-UF
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AM
LE
YS
TAP
EL
H
OL
ZM
AR
KT
HEUMARKT
DOM/HBF.
COLOGNEMAIN STATION
ST. URSULA CHURCH
Hilton
Excelsior Hotel
Hotel Mondialam Dom
Le MeridienDom Hotel
CM Cit y Class Hotel Europa
Hotel am Augustinerplatz
Senats Hotel
Hotel Lyskirchen
Hotel Königshof
CM Cit y Class Hotel Cipriani
Dorint am Heumarkt
Hotel SonataCM Cit y Class
Residence Hotel
Maritim Hotel
Ar t'otel
Hotel Allegro
LindnerResidence
Hotel
Savoy
Grand Cit y Hotel
Best WesternGrand Cit y Köln
Hotel Domspatz
Hotel Ludwig
Marriot
Breslauer Hof
Central
Domspitzen
Hotel Callas Eden Hotel
Hotel Mauritius
Global Blue Refund Ofce: Reisebank AG inside Cologne’s main station
1 Ebinghaus
Menswear store Ebinghaus offers
an impressive selection, including
pieces by Versace, Ermenegildo
Zegna and Cerruti 1881.
Ebinghaus, Glockengasse 2A,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 257 7390,
ebinghaus-koeln.de
* featured on page 34
2 Strenesse
Discover where fashion meets
functionality with Strenesse’s
sport-luxe collection, available at
the brand’s Mittelstrasse boutique.
Strenesse, Mittelstrasse 12-14,
50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 250 9905,
strenesse.com
* featured on page 47
3 Victorinox
Pick up some new luggage from
Victorinox’s limited-edition Travel
in Colour range.
Victorinox,Wallrafplatz 2,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 2806 7270,
victorinox.com
* featured on page 31
4 Heimat
Browse the latest collections
from Raf Simons, Issey Miyake,
Jil Sander and more at the chic
Heimat boutique.
Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78,
50676 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 946 1172,
heimat-koeln.de
* featured on page 36
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
page
60
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63
page
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1
3
60 | GUIDE
Am Hof, Wallrafplatz, Domkloster, Komödienstrasse & Bahnhofsvorplatz
AU
F D
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RU
HR
MÜHLENGASSE
BISCHOFSGARTENSTR ASSE
AM
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LINTGASSE
BURGMAUER
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UN
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BREITE STR ASSE
TU
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TU
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TU
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KOMÖDIENSTR ASSE
TR ANKGASSE
L
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WIG
ST
RA
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E
RIC
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ZS
TR
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AM HOF
UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN
AM HOF GROSSE NEUGASSE
SALOMONSGASSE
U
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ER
TA
SC
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NM
AC
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R ENGGASSE
HO
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● TIME SQUARE
APOTHEKEDOM/KOSMETIK ● DOM APOTHEKE ●
TIME SQUARE ●
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● AIGNER● RÜSCHENBECK/ROLEX● ZWILLING
● SWAROVSKI
● RIMOWA
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GE
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KÖ
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GESCHENKE AM DOM ●
HEALTH & SCIENCE ●
MY TIME COLOGNE ●
KÖ
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Bahnhofsvorplatz
Domkloster
WallrafplatzRoncalliplatz
ABASONIC● SOUVENIRS
HE
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● XIANG SHOP
● BABYLON
COLOGNE PHILHARMONIE
● DOUGLAS
COLOGNE CATHEDRAL
Taku
VITO HERRENMODE ●
RO
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KL ●
● MILLENIA
Café Reichard
Bulgari
The Serpenti collection from luxurious
italian brand Bulgari has the kind of iconic
status that few lines ever achieve. inspired by
the feminine, by the history of italy, and by
the legendary ruler Cleopatra, the collection
of bags and accessories is a favourite among
everyone from fashion editors to Hollywood
actresses. This season Bulgari introduces the
new Serpenti Scales design, which features
a linear frame with a top handle and a
modern, architectural shape. The new style
is available in a range of colours that cannot
fail to brighten any outft.
Bulgari, Wallrafplatz 1, 50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 270 5650, bulgari.com
Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
Restaurant
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Tu
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
P.62
P.2
2
Café
SHOP | 61
Hohe Strasse
LINTGASSE
DR
US
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GA
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INS
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AM HOF
LU
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AM HOF
MINORITENSTR ASSE
TU
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TU
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GROSSE BUDENGASSE MÜHLENGASSE
UN
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PERLENPFUHL
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HO
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SCHILDERGASSE GÜRZENICHSTR ASSE
● ROECKL● ESPRIT● SIX● TAMARIS● TALLY WEIJL● CALZEDONIA● BIBA● H&M UNDERWEAR● DOUGLAS● FOSSIL● PYLONES● KIKO
● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE● YVES ROCHER● R & C MÜLLER● THE BODY SHOP● WMF● ZARA ● BIJOU BRIGITTE● PIMKIE● INTIMISSIMI● KONPLOTT● INTIMISSIMI● ADIDAS NEO ● BIBA● FOOT LOCKER● COOLWAY● H&M MEN● SNIPES ● CADENZA● CHRIST
● S OLIVER● MANGO● SIDESTEP● VANS ● TEZENIS● COTTON ONE● LEGO● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● BOSE● WEMPE● FLIRT FASHION● SCHIESSER● DEPOT
● JACOBI
THOMAS SABO ●HÖGL ●
TOM TAILOR ●GEOX ●
FASHION CLUB ●MEDIA MARKT ●
VERO MODA ●JACK & JONES ●
ACCESSORIZE ●PROMOD ●
VERO MODA ●JACK & JONES ●
REVIEW ●H&M ●
NEW YORKER ●CLAIRES ●SWATCH ●
LUSH ●CLARKS ●
GÖRTZ17 ●HUNKEMÖLLER ●
HALLHUBER ●PANDORA ●
SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ●REVIEW ●
CÖLN - CARRE ●ESPRIT EDC ●
C&A ●TELEFONICA GMBH / O2 ●
● BOGNER
Galeria Kaufof
RIGBY & PELLER ●
FARINA-HAUS
SELECTED
STORES IN
GALERIA
KAUFHOF:
APRIORI
BIBA
SATURN
TISSOT
NeSpreSSo
Nespresso machines combine style and
substance, producing great cofee while
also being a pleasure to look at. The newly
launched inissia machine is available
in a choice of eye-popping colours and
the compact design makes it perfect for
city living. The inissia is equipped with
Nespresso’s expert technology, heats up
in a mere 25 seconds and is the lightest
Nespresso machine to date, weighing only
2.4kg – so you can enjoy perfect cofee any
time and anywhere.
Nespresso, am Hof 1, 50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)211 965 067850,
nespresso.com
Department Store
P.38
62 | GUIDE
Department Store Shopping Centre/Mall
Breite Strasse & Apostelnstrasse
SCHILDERGASSE
GEREONSTRASSE
UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN
SCHWALBENGASSE
NE
VE
N-D
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ON
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TR
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MITTELSTR ASSE NEUMARKT
MAGNUSSTRASSE
BURGMAUER
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FRIESENSTRASSE
HE
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GR
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OLD
KO
PF P
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● V
ILLER
OY
& B
OC
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● B
RE
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● JU
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P. GÜ
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● D
OU
GL
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● H
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SE
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DE
SIG
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● G
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LED
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WA
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● S
CH
WA
NE
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PO
TH
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TH
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OR
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FAC
E●
MA
MM
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AY
UN
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● B
EN
CH
● B
AR
BO
UR
GR
AV
IS ●
● MIA ROMAMARC O'POLO ●● RADIUSCALIDA ●
JUW
ELIE
RZ
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LER
●
● WELLENSTEIN
DuMont-Carré
OpernPassagen
Ka
rs
ta
dt
WD
R A
RK
AR
DE
N ●
AU
GE
ND
ÜB
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BR
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●
JUW
ELIE
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AU
FH
OLD
●LO
EW
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LER
IE ●
● R
ALP
H E
BIN
GH
AU
S
SELECTED STORES IN
DUMONT-CARRÉ :
BETTY BARCLAYBIRKENSTOCKBONPRIXCAMEL ACTIVE
ETERNAKULT J.P. GÖRGENSLLOYDMAX KÜHLPLANETPROMARKTRUNNERS POINT
SELECTED STORES IN
OPERN PASSAGEN:
4711BOSEJANSSEN RASIERER-SERVICEKRASS OPTIKSOVRANOTHOMAS SABO
BE
NE
SIS
ST
RA
SS
E
M AG N USSTR ASSE
AL
BE
RT
US
ST
RA
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AP
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LN
ST
RA
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PALMSTR ASSE
IKK
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AM
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●
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HA
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PE
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PO
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LA
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WE
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DA
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BU
CH
HA
ND
LU
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●
WA
LTH
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KÖ
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●
BE
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RM
AN
●
DO
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LA
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ZA
RA
●
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SA
CH
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HO
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●
TH
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SA
BO
●
AC
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OR
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●
JUS
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MA
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LA
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●
SC
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FR
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Ehrenstrasse
Café Reichard
Set opposite Cologne’s majestic cathedral, Café Reichard
is a traditional teahouse. It’s a perfect spot for afternoon
tea and offers an array of delicious pastries.
Café Reichard, Unter Fettenhennen 11, 50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 257 8542, cafe-reichard.de
* for map go to page 60
Salon Schmitz
Frequented by Cologne’s most trend-conscious locals,
Salon Schmitz, with its chic vintage-style interior and
laid-back appeal, is a great coffee and brunch spot.
Salon Schmitz, Aachener Strasse 28, 50674 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 139 5577, salonschmitz.com
Fassbender
The ideal café for those with a sweet tooth, Fassbender
is known for its divine cakes and confectionery.
Fassbender, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 925 9990, fassbender.de
* for map go to page 64
Cologne’S beSt CaFéS
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
P.37
SHOP | 63
Featured In This Issue
Minoritenstrasse & Gürzenichstrasse
GR
OS
SE
NE
UG
AS
SE
AU
F D
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RU
HR
P
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STRASSE
HEUMARKT
GLOCKENGASSE
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MA
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TR
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RA
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TU
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LU
DW
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TR
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L
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WIG
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RA
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AN DER RECHTSCHULE
SCHILDERGASSE
MINORITENSTR ASSE
SCHILDERGASSE
LIN
TGASSE
HO
HE
ST
RA
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OH
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TR
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SCHILDERGASSE
MA
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PF
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AM HOF GROSSE NEUGASSE
CÄCILIENSTR ASSE
AUGUSTINESTR .
GÜRZENICHSTR ASSE
GE
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TR
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AN
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DA
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HU
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NR
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FR
AN
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TO
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PH
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HA
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AR
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JAC
K W
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KO
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● MAHI DEGENRING
MadaMe MiaMMiaM
Madame Miammiam produces sweet
treats that are as pretty look to at as they
are delicious to eat. Run by pastry chef
anne Schulte-Schmitz, the store is popular
with locals for its beautiful celebration
cakes as well its tempting selection of
petits fours, cupcakes and cookies, and
ofers traditional German sweets alongside
seasonal favourites. it’s not easy to leave
Madame Miammiam empty handed.
Madame Miammiam,
antwerpener Strasse 39,
50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 271 9242,
madamemiammiam.de
64 | GUIDE
Neumarkt, Richmodstrasse & Zeppelinstrasse
KR
EB
SG
AS
SE
SCHA AFENSTRASSE FL
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CH
ME
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HO
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XX
NeumarktPassage
PINOCCHIO KINDERMODEN ●JUWELIER ANTONIO M.KRINGS ●
JACK WOLFSKIN ●
HA
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● GÖRTZ● ERICH ORTLOFF
● MORE & MORE
Neumarkt Galerie
FOTO GREGOR ●● TCHIBORASIERER STAHLWAREN
JANSSEN ●
● GLOBE-TROTTER
Appelrathcüpper
Karstadt
LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ●
EHRENSTR ASSE
GROSSE BRINKGASSE
AP
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LN
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FR
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CL
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HA
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Fa
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SELECTED STORES IN
NEUMARKT GALERIE:
APOTHEKE AM NEUMARKTELÉGANCEES SIEMENS JUWELIERGANTGOLDKOPF PARFÜMERIEHALLHUBER
LIZ WEINMANNPALMERS LEJABY RE:STOREREFORMHAUS BACHERSOVRANOTCHIBOZEROPRIMARK
SELECTED STORES IN
NEUMARKT PASSAGE:
STIFT + PAPIERSTEIFF
Mittelstrasse
If you’re brave enough, climb the 533 steps to the top of
Cologne cathedral’s south tower, and enjoy the incredible
panoramic views as your reward.
TOP TIP
Department Store Shopping Centre/MallGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
PH
OTO
: KO
ELN
TO
UR
ISM
US
GM
BH
/AN
DR
EAS
Mö
LTG
EN
P.82
P.38
P.62
Café Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 65
Schildergasse
KR
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SG
AS
SE
FL
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CH
ME
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GA
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LEONHARD-TIETZ-STRASSE STERNENGASSE
BRÜCKENSTRASSE
GR
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GaleriaKaufof
Peek &
Clo
pp
enburg
● BOGNER
Appelrathcüpper
Karstad
t Sp
ort HIRMER ●
LEDERWAREN VOEGELS ●
● EBINGHAUS
SELECTED STORES IN
PEEK & CLOPPENBURG:
25 SUNCLASSMANGO
SELECTED STORES IN
GALERIA KAUfhOf:
SATURN
Claudius Therme
a visit to Claudius Therme, Cologne’s
thermal baths and spa, is a novel way to
banish winter chills. Claudius Therme
is located in the rheinpark, overlooking
Cologne’s spectacular cathedral. admire
the panoramic views from the spa’s sauna,
revitalise yourself with a herbal steam bath,
or simply soak up the health benefts of
thermal, mineral spring water. The spa
also ofers an excellent range of beauty
and wellness treatments.
Claudius Therme,
sachsenbergstrasse 1, 50679 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 981440, claudius-therme.dePH
OTO
: CLA
UD
IUS
TH
ERM
E S
PA
P.36
P.34
globalblue.com
66 | GUIDE
Designer Outlet Roermond
How to
get tHere
By car
From Cologne, take
either the A57 towards
Düsseldorf or the A61
towards Venlo until
these cross the A52.
From there take the A52
towards roermond, cross
the border and follow
the signs.
By train
Designer outlet
roermond is just a
15-minute walk from
roermond station. when
you leave the station,
cross Stationsplein
and follow the signs
to Designer outlet
roermond. For train
times and ticket prices,
please visit bahn.de.
By shuttle bus
the shuttle bus service
departs every Saturday
and Sunday from the
main railway station
in Cologne, at 9am on
Saturday and 10am on
Sunday. the return
journey costs €15.
Designer Outlet Roermond,
Stadsweide 2, 6041 tD roermond, +31 (0)475 351777,
designer-outlet-roermond.com, mcarthurglen.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm, Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm
PerFeCt DAy
12pm
Stop for lunch at Asia
Cocos where favourful
thai, Chinese and
Vietnamese cuisine is
crafted using the freshest
available ingredients.
3pm
Baldinini ofers high
quality and meticulous
attention to detail in its
range of shoes, leather
goods and accessories.
5pm
Pick up a pair of classic
American jeans at
True Religion. the
US import specialises
in well-ftting, high-
quality denim.
7pm
Alongside its Swiss
Army knife, Victorinox
ofers a range of cutlery,
clothing and fragrances.
globalblue.com
10am
the clothing collections
at Daniel Hechter are
ideal for those with an
active lifestyle. Pieces
are easy to mix and
match, and epitomise
sporty chic.
SHOP | 67
Essential Information
Use your smartphone’s Qr code reader to link to the helpful websites
below when you’re on the go
1 42 53 6
1. Regional Tourist Ofce
Cologne tourist Board,
Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1,
50667 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 346430,
cologne-tourism.com
2. Federal Foreign Ofce
Switchboard (24-hour
service): +49 (0)30 18170
Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am-
3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000
3. Transportation Maps
For public transport timetables
and tickets go to kvb-koeln.de
or scan the Qr code
4. Deutsche Bahn
If you intend to travel by train
go to the bahn.de website or
scan the Qr code for more
information
5. Taxi
to fnd a local taxi, scan
the Qr code or use the
website taxi.de
6. Global Blue Online
For the most up-to-date
information on shops,
museums, galleries and
restaurants in germany,
go to globalblue.com or
scan the Qr code
EMERGENCY SERVICES
Emergency: 112 (ambulance
and fre); 110 (police)
Doctor: +49 (0)116117
(emergency service, weekends
and public holidays)
Lost Or Stolen Cards:
+49 (0)116116
(immediate blocking of lost/
stolen debit/credit cards)
USEFUL PHRASES
Hello ∙ Hallo/guten tag
Thank you ∙ Danke schön
Please ∙ Bitte
I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...
Goodbye ∙ Auf wiedersehen
How much is...? ∙
wieviel kostet...?
Can I have a receipt
please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine
Quittung haben?
INSIDER TIP
For the latest information
on attraction opening times
and special events when you’re
on the move, head to the
ofcial tourism mobile website
koelntourismus.mobi
PH
OTO
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DID YOU KNOW ...?
Cologne Cathedral took 632 years to build; work began
in 1248 and wasn’t completed until 1880
68 | GUIDE
Explore, See, Do
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Explore
Rheinauhafen, the historic dockland area
of Cologne, has an attractive promenade
with an international feel, adding a
modern edge to the oldest metropolis in
Germany. The dockland quarter is fast
becoming a hub of creativity and at its
centre is the spectacular Kranhäuser.
Cologne Tourist Board is the ofcial
tourism marketing organisation for the city
of Cologne and is the frst port of call for
people from all over the world, whether
business or leisure visitors.
Cologne Tourist Board,
Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430,
cologne-tourism.com
See
Aiming to be a place of refection, the
strikingly modern Kolumba art museum
exhibits sacred art alongside contemporary
works. The building, by renowned architect
Peter Zumthor, is an attraction in itself.
Kolumba, Kolumbastrasse 4,
50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 933 1930,
kolumba.de
Do
In Cologne’s Belgian Quarter, a growing
number of young designers is setting up
in small, individually designed boutiques,
where they are free to sell more unusual
fashion and accessories. Stop at one of the
city’s cosy cafés, bars or restaurants after
visiting the shops.
If you only have a short time to spend in Cologne, the city’s
tourist board has three top recommendations for you
globalblue.com
SHOP | 69
Cologne Bonn Airport
After every great holiday comes the
fight home, but that doesn’t mean
your shopping trip should be over when
you reach the airport. At Cologne Bonn
Airport, you’ll fnd the best names
in German fashion and accessories.
If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or
a new pair of sunglasses from a label that
you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s
boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in
your suitcase. Cologne Bonn Airport
also has an enticing variety of food
and drink options.
Marc O’Polo
For of-duty days, look no further than
Marc O’Polo. The brand is known
and loved for its cool, casual range of
men’s and women’s clothing. Founded
in Stockholm, Marc O’Polo focuses on
natural materials, combining classic
preppy style with a nod to the season’s
trends. Visit before your fight to stock
up on the brand’s selection of stylish
and snug winter layers.
Hugo Boss
Hugo Boss’s designs are wardrobe staples
that epitomise modern European style.
The brand has fve distinctive lines. Choose
between the sharp tailoring of Boss Black,
the luxurious fabrics of Boss Selection,
the athletic appeal of Boss Green, Boss
Orange’s urban attitude and the fashion-
forward Hugo line.
Kamps
Kamps bakeries are known and loved
throughout Germany and the airport
branch is the perfect place to pick up a
delicious pre-fight snack. The wide array
of flled bread rolls, pretzels and pastries
available includes the company’s most
popular lines, which include its signature
Kamps Eck, a nutty wholegrain rye loaf
sprinkled with seeds, the Fanblock, a
pastry flled with dried fruit, rolled oats
and seeds, and the sinfully good chocolate
and cinnamon Wuppis. Speciality cofees
and cold drinks are also available.
/
/79 79
7876
70
When you shop the world, shop tax free
Contact: [email protected]+421 232 111 111Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.
So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
1. Shop
globalblue.com
71
Refund Ofces
Refund Ofce details:
Cologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside) M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)Downtown Cologne Reisebank inside the main station Düsseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters
Gates D
Departure
Arrival
Arrival
Departure
In b
ookshop
Kirschner
In bookshop Kirschner
Gates B
Terminal 1
Terminal 2
Gates C
Gates A
Gates B
KeyCologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside),
M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)
Düsseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1
(beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters)
Partner Refund Ofce
Landside
Check-In Area
Security Control
Global Blue Refund Ofce
Tax Free Mailbox
Airside
Customs stamp
globalblue.com
72
Немецкие парфюмеры имеют репутацию новаторов еще со времен появления одеколона. Современные ароматы являются достойным наследием этого классического парфюма, – рассказывает Гвинет Голланд
Вклад немецких парфюмеров в мировую индустрию всегда характеризовался инновационным и творческим подходом. Долгое время одеколон удерживал позиции самого популярного парфюма в Германии. Созданный в 1709 году итальянским парфюмером Джованни Марией Фарина одеколон был фаворитом многих королевских дворов Европы. Свежий аромат напоминал Фарина «весеннее утро в Италии, горные нарциссы и цветы апельсина после дождя», – одним словом одеколон не шел в сравнение ни с одним из хмельных, слащавых и безыскусных ароматов тех времен. Нежный цитрусовый аромат с нотками горных трав был назван «eau de Cologne» в честь города Кельна, ставшего парфюмеру вторым домом. Здесь мастеру удалось создать абсолютно новый вид ароматов, который не утратил своей актуальности даже три столетия спустя.Следующим шагом в развитии парфюма
стало создание знаменитого аромата 4711, который и по сей день сохраняет невероятную популярность благодаря своему классическому флакону и легкому, пикантному букету. Одеколон, правами на который владеет парфюмерная компания Mäurer & Wirtz, все еще производится по оригинальной формуле, однако бренд 4711 активно развивается, покоряя все новые аудитории. Так, недавно была представлен новый освежающий аромат Wunderwasser для мужчин и женщин, а также итальянский вариант одеколона – Acqua Colonia.
Новые парфюмерные дома Германии, возможно, не могут похвастаться столь же нашумевшим ароматом как 4711 или престижем, свойственным французским шедеврам, однако они продолжают нелегкое дело Фарина, стараясь собрать воедино мастерство, инновации и индивидуальность. «Германия это страна инноваций, где люди трудятся ради исполнения своей мечты и стремятся создать нечто новое. Мы не просто переосмысливаем и обновляем старые традиции, мы хотим установить новые стандарты», – говорит Тамаш Тагшерер, рассказывая о парфюмерном бренде JF Schwarzlose. Его компания базируется в Берлине и специализируется на создании роскошных ароматов, воплощающих неповторимый стиль этого города. В 2012 году марка JF Schwarzlose, созданная еще в далеком 1856, увидела второе рождение, когда ее возглавили дизайнер Лутц Герман, парфюмер Вероника Ниберг и маркетолог Тамаш Тагшерер. Последнее детище бренда – аромат Zeitgeist, выражающий авангардный дух Берлина, его изменчивость и чувствительность посредством янтаря, мускуса, эвкрифии в сочетании с синтетическими нотами – колон и эделонид. Образ немецкого парфюмерного бренда для многих людей сегодня все еще кажется чем-то новым и необычным – они находят его интересным и инновационным, говорит Тагшерер.
Translations
40: Freshness In A Bottle
Свежесть В Бутылке
РуССкий ПеРеВод
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Благодаря таким проектам, как Hamburg Biehl Parfumkunstwerke репутация Германии, как страны, где создаются креативные и высокохудожественные парфюмы, резко возрастает. Широко известный парфюмер Торстен Биль трудится совместно с лучшими специалистами индустрии, создавая особые ароматы, доступные лишь в очень ограниченных партиях. Свободные от коммерческого давления парфюмеры, такие как Марк Бакстон, Артуретто Ланди, Патрисия Шу, Эгон Олкерс и Геза Шон способны создать самые невероятные ароматы для истинных ценителей.
Собственный бренд Гезы Шона «Escentric Molecules» предлагает неожиданные ароматы для неискушенных пуристов. «Для большинства моих друзей духи всегда были слишком резкими, слишком сладкими, слишком фруктовыми… Я подумала, что было бы неплохо создать такие духи, которые больше будут похожи на ауру, нежели на типичный парфюм. Для этого они должны быть прямолинейны и даже немного однообразны, но вместе с тем необычайно привлекательны», – говорит Шон. Такие «однообразные» парфюмы из его коллекции Molecules основаны на одном единственном ингредиенте, например, амброксане, вертиверил ацитате или Iso E Super, в то время как букет коллекции Escentric более сложный и сочетает в себе как классические, так и ультрасовременные ноты.
В берлинской лаборатории Frau Tonis парфюмеры используют более индивидуальный, но не менее умелый подход. Бренд возрождает знаменитые парфюмы прошлого за счет ароматов современности, например – Aventure, с его нотками кедра, янтаря и розового перца; Linde Berlin, напоминающий знаменитый берлинский аромат липовых деревьев; Violet, основанный на парфюме, созданном специально для Марлен Дитрих в 1920-х. Чтобы аромат получился абсолютно уникальным, посетителям берлинского бутика Frau Tonis, который расположен возле бывшего контрольно-пропускного
пункта «Чекпойнт Чарли», предоставляется возможность самостоятельно смешать выбранные ингредиенты. Марка Frau Tonis, бутики которой сегодня можно найти в Нью-Йорке, Милане, Барселоне и Мадриде, являет собой пример непрекращающегося влияния Германии на мировую индустрию в целом. Бренд был основан Штефани Гансеном, который полагает, что немецкие парфюмы не уступают своим соперникам ни по качеству, ни по уровню инноваций. «Времена, когда общество ценило лишь французские и итальянские парфюмы, уже давно минули».m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com, biehl-parfum.com, escentric.com, frau-tonis-parfum.com
46: Form And Function
Мода или Практичность?
Немецкие дизайнеры в очередной раз доказывают, что одно другому нисколько не мешает. Клэр Коулсон изучила зимние коллекции лучших немецких брендов
Несмотря на то, что мода – понятие глобальное, определенные страны упорно продолжают сохранять лидерство в тех или иных областях. Так, американцы делают превосходную спортивную одежду, итальянцев сложно превзойти по части изделий из кожи, а французы остаются лидерами шикарных и невероятно женственных нарядов. Что же касается Германии, то пресловутая немецкая точность в равной степени применима как к современным технологиям и автомобилям, так и к модным брендам этой страны.
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Практичный дизайн и неповторимое качество в сочетании с природным прагматизмом стали основой формирования модной индустрии немцев. В последнее время, когда мода переживает кардинальные изменения, роскошные бренды по всему миру начинают осознавать одну простую истину: все что нужно женщинам – так это настоящая одежда, состоящая из элегантных классических элементов, которые хорошо смотрятся и легко носятся.
Взять, к примеру, дебютную коллекцию Джейсона Ву для Hugo Boss. Кому-то такой союз может показаться весьма странным, учитывая, что дизайнер специализируется в основном на легких и роскошных вечерних платьях, в то время как Hugo Boss – на строгих мужских костюмах. И, тем не менее, это сотрудничество позволило подчеркнуть сильные стороны немецкой марки. В преддверии своей дебютной осенне-зимней коллекции Ву решил сослаться на перфекционизм бренда, в шутку назвав ультрасовременную штаб-квартиру Hugo Boss в Метцингене «кампусом». И все же ощущение немецкой точности, безусловно, присутствовало в коллекции Ву: стильные двусторонние кашемировые пальто с аккуратным военным ремнем черного цвета; аккуратные костюмы с безукоризненными мальчишескими пиджаками и брюками; а также плюшевые трикотажные накидки, которые можно носить в сложенном виде на плечах, а затем накинуть на спину – все это смотрится элегантно и в высшей степени практично.
Ву не единственный дизайнер, пытающийся переосмыслить и объединить прагматизм и высокую моду. Последняя коллекция Escada «Escada Sport» буквально изобилует практичными моделями. Меховые куртки слегка приталены и подвязаны поясом; парки и жилетки с меховыми капюшонами почти невесомы и весьма удобны в зимнюю пору; глянцевые пальто и куртки сделаны с использованием легкого и современного утеплителя. Все это сочетается с мальчишеской обувью на плоской подошве, которая, несмотря на свою практичность, выглядит довольно шикарно.
В Strenesse похожая история: легкие спортивные парки и куртки, украшенные мехом, сочетаются с повседневными платьями и леггинсами. Прилегающие жакеты утеплены мехом и трикотажными деталями на рукавах. Как и в случае с Hugo Boss особое место здесь отведено современным костюмам, практичным и в то же время стильным, с брюками свободного покроя серого цвета с голубоватым или розоватым отливом.
Аксессуары также приобрели долю практичности. Strenesse завершает свои привлекательные образы удобными клатчами на длинном ремешке. Мюнхенская марка MCM во главе с креативным директором Михаелем Михальски предлагает роскошные сумки тоут, отвечающие всем потребностям современной женщины. В сумках предусмотрены специальные отделения для электронных гаджетов, таких как ноутбук и iPad, а рюкзаки изобилуют кармашками разных размеров для всевозможных мелочей.
Но особенно выраженно немецкая точность и техническое ноу-хау проявились в области спортивной одежды. Когда дело доходит до умения сочетать моду и одежду для экстремальных видов спорта, то здесь неизменными лидерами остаются такие немецкие марки, как Adidas, Bogner, Porsche Design и Schofel. Бренд Adidas смог показать все свои последние разработки во время экипировки британских спортсменов, участвующих в зимних олимпийских играх в Сочи в 2014 году. Adidas представил свои «теплые штаны», сделанные из самонагревающихся материалов и обеспечивающие оптимальную температуру тела спортсмена во время тренировки, а также костюмы Powerweb из термопластичного полиуретана, который хранит и возвращает эластическую тягу для снижения мышечной усталости. Возможно, это звучит немного из области фантастики, однако не стоит удивляться, если в скором времени подобная технология появится в вашем шкафу. И с большой долей вероятности можно предположить, что это
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52: In Focus: Porsche Design
В фокусе: Porsche Design
Руарид Притчард рассказывает о немецком бренде Porsche Design, на счету которого множество дизайнерских предметов – от роскошных чемоданов до стильных смартфонов
Считается, что мода и функциональность находятся на противоположных полюсах и взаимно исключают друг друга. Однако, когда речь идет о практичном и одновременно красивом дизайне, немецкие бренды неизменно оказываются в лидерах. Выбирать немецкое – это стало правилом для многих поклонников хороших автомобилей, поскольку именно Porsche всегда воплощал идеал спортивной модели в глазах миллионов людей по всему миру.
В 1972 году создатель знаменитого автомобиля Фердинанд Александер Порше представил под брендом Porsche коллекцию одежды и аксессуаров – и тем самым заразил идеей выбирать немецкое и знатоков моды. С 2003 года серия выходит под маркой Porsche Design, и теперь ее дополнили чемоданы, часы, домашняя утварь и оправы для очков. Компания также занимается разработкой дизайна электронных устройств. Особое место среди них занимают технологичные смартфоны BlackBerry из нержавеющей стали: например, новая модель P’9982 доступна в корпусе из итальянской кожи, кожи аллигатора и других роскошных материалов.
В 2010 году бренд Porsche Design открыл собственную серию кожаной одежды и аксессуаров высочайшего качества. Ее вершиной стал жакет из мягкой кожи ягненка, эксклюзивность которого подтверждается тиражом: выпущено всего 200 экземпляров на весь мир. Кроме того, особого внимания в этой коллекции достойны куртка-пуховик из
лайковой замши и кожаный жакет Tec Flex с карманами на молнии и петлями для наушников.
Доктор Юрген Гесслер, исполнительный директор Porsche Design, точно определяет уникальность этой коллекции: «Она создает безусловную связь между функциональностью и эстетикой и органично вплетается в нашу концепцию. Базовая идея остается неизменной: мы не следуем за модными веяниями, а расставляем собственные акценты. И наше понимание повседневной роскоши придает коллекциям одежды уникальность».
Пожалуй, наиболее эффектно стиль и функция слились в фирменной модели TwinBag. Наибольший интерес представляет ее основная конструктивная особенность – регулируемые по длине ручки: закрепленные особым образом, они позволяют носить сумку и в руках, и через плечо. Лучшие мастер Флоренции вкладывают все свои умения в тщательную ручную обработку цельных кусков эксклюзивных видов кожи. Для подкладки используется мягчайшее волокно алькантара, а металлическая гарнитура из хрома, серебра, белого и розового золота обрабатывается с помощью гальванических воздействий. В результате, TwinBag гармонично объединяет итальянское мастерство и немецкий дизайн.
Сумка оказалась востребованной, и следующим этапом стало сотрудничество Porsche Design с берлинским художником Тьерри Нуаром: он вручную расписал TwinBag своими знаменитыми стилизованными сердцами. Обновленная версия легендарной модели была презентована на ярмарке Art Basel Miami Beach в 2013 году, а затем поступила в ассортимент избранных салонов Porsche Design в разных городах.
«Современный ритм жизни изменил наше отношение к миру, и единственной адекватной реакцией на это может быть сочетание минималистского дизайна и функциональности, - размышляет креативный директор Porsche Design Томас Штайнбрюк. – Таким образом, созданный нами образ оказался созвучен
будет вещь одного из немецких брендов.hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com
globalblue.com
76
美文翻译
40: Freshness In A Bottle
瓶中精灵
自香水诞生之日起,德国调香师就享有勇于创新
的美誉。今日的摩登香氛则继承了先辈的经典风
格,Gwyneth Holland报道
几个世纪以来,德国调香师对于香水界的贡献主要
表现在创新性与艺术性等方面。由Giovanni Maria
Farina于1709年调配出的eau de Cologne,素来
是德国最有名的香水,并在当时被欧洲宫廷广泛使
用。Farina表示这股清新的香调让他想起“一个意
大利春天的早晨,雨后的山谷百合与橙花。”——与
当时风头正劲的浓郁、香甜、单调的香氛不尽相同。
他的这款柑橘与草本香味的香水被命名为eau de
Cologne,以纪念调香师的第二故乡,而他也由此开
创了一类全新的香水风格。Farina的作品在三个世
纪以后仍在生产中。
Far ina的杰作还影响了世界上最知名的古龙
水——4711的诞生,经典的包装加上清爽辛香的味
道,使这款古龙水时至今日仍在世界各地广受欢迎。
这款如今所属于Mäurer&Wirtz香水公司的产品,
仍由原配方调制而成,而4711品牌则正在不断壮大
并吸引新的顾客群体。从男女皆可使用、简洁明快的
新Wunderwasser香水,到对于古龙水的意大利式
演绎——Acqua Colonia系列。
德国的新香水品牌或许还不具有标志性的4711
,或是法国香水品牌那样的国际影响力,但他们仍
继承着Far ina的衣钵,将艺术性、创新与个性加
入自己的作品中。“德国是一个倡导创新的国度,
这里的人们追组梦想,想要不断创造新的东西。
我们不仅重新审视与更新旧的方法,还想要建立
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этому новому стилю жизни: понятный, но не искусственный, повседневный и одновременно официальный. В частности, мы применяем новейшие техники обработки материалов, поэтому наши модели кажутся и хорошо знакомыми, и в то же время авангардными».
Вот уже четыре десятилетия Porsche Design по-прежнему следует дизайнерскому принципу своего основателя: «Чтобы создать форму объекта, необходима внимательно рассмотреть его функцию». И эта компания своим опытом последовательно подтверждает: форма должна быть не только функциональной, но и красивой.porsche-design.com
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77
德国制造拥有精密准确的国际声誉——这也适用于
该国的时尚品牌。一批德国顶尖品牌带来的冬季系
列都印证了这点,Clare Coulson报道
时尚正变得比任何时候都全球化,然而民族特色仍
未磨灭。美国人擅长制造奢华运动装,而在皮革制
作上无人能与意大利人比肩,巴黎仍旧是极致时髦
与女性化风格之圣地。此外,德国制造的精密性则
体现在从前沿科技到超级跑车等各行业,其同时适
用于该国的时尚品牌。
实用、纯净的设计与制造,永远兼顾功能性:德国
品牌在这个最佳时机,开始高举自己与生俱来的实
用主义旗帜。时尚界正经历一场剧烈的变革,各地
的奢侈品牌都意识到女人衣橱中真正需要的,是实
穿的服饰;是好看又易穿的不过时的经典款。
以Jason Wu在Hugo Boss品牌发表的首个系列
为例。Wu个人最出名的单品是轻浮放浪、极度奢华
的鸡尾酒会装,这或许与以锋芒锐利的男性化剪裁
出名的Hugo Boss并不匹配。然而二者的联姻却更
彰显了德国品牌的优势。在推出秋/冬系列之前,Wu
深入研究过品牌的完美主义传统,并开玩笑地将
Hugo Boss位于麦琴根的总部成为“校园”。然而那
份德国式的精密在Wu的设计中昭然若揭:时髦的双
面羊绒大衣,腰部装饰着简洁的黑色军用皮带;利落
的西装则搭配以简约的男孩风夹克与剪裁中性的西
装裤;而Wu的模特们肩上搭着的毛绒针织披肩可
以围至背后,看起来温暖又实用。
Wu并不是唯一考虑将实用主义融入高级时装的
设计师。Escada旗下的最新副线Escada Sport,
同样推出了不少实用的作品。毛皮夹克以贴身剪裁
并配以可收紧腰带;皮草领大衣或风衣为冬季带来
轻盈又温暖的包裹;闪光外套与夹克则采用轻质绗
缝线与填充物。以上系列都可搭配平底的男孩风鞋
履,即实穿又时髦。
Strenesse品牌也采取了类似的作法,运动感十足
的皮草装饰轻便风衣及夹克,可搭配时髦连衣裙与
打底裤,为冬日带来暖意。温暖的外套通体装饰着
绝缘皮草并辅以针织袖管,并且与Hugo Boss如出
一辙,时髦摩登的裤装,西装裤是系列中的明星,以
超高实用性以及时尚剪裁而脱颖而出,此外还有极
浅的鸽子灰、木炭色或温和的玫瑰米色宽松裤装可
供选择。
时装配件也变得实用起来。Stgrenesse以耐磨
的斜跨信封手袋,来搭配其简约的服装造型。在慕
尼黑的MCM,创意总监Michael Michalsky在设
计奢华手提包的初期,就以适合女性职业生涯为考
量;包中设有可收纳笔记本电脑、iPad等数码产品
46: Form And Function:
秀外慧中
新的标准,”来自小众香水品牌J F Schwarzlose
的TamasTagscherer表示,这个柏林的香水品
牌致力于制造体现这座城市风貌的奢华香氛。成
立于1856年的JF Schwarzlose,在设计师Lutz
Herrmann、调香师Véronique Nyberg与营销人
TamasTagscherer的带领下于2012年重新出发。品
牌旗下的最新香水Zeitgeist,使用琥珀、麝香和丁
香以及calone、edelonide等化合物调和,将柏林的
前卫、多变与感性封入瓶中。“今日德国香水品牌的形
象对多数人而言还是较为新奇与不同寻常的——他
们令人兴奋且创意十足,”Tagscherer表示。
汉堡的BiehlParfumkunstwerke等项目,通
过将香水提升至一种艺术形式,进一步巩固了德
国香水匠心独具、不同寻常的声誉。知名调香师
Thorsten Biehl与几位香水业内最受尊敬的闻香师
合作,创造出一系列限量版本的单一香调。远离商业
压力的Mark Buxton、ArturettoLandi、Patricia
Choux、Egon Oelkers与Geza Schoen等“香气艺
术家”,得以为真正的香氛鉴赏家们创造出独一无二
的香气。
Geza Schoen自己的香水品牌,Escent r ic
Molecules为香水爱好者们带来了意想不到的味
道。“对我的多数朋友而言,香水的味道总是太过
了,过甜、过重、果味过于浓郁...我觉得可能将香
气当做一顶光环来佩戴会更好,所以不同于传统
的香水,它必须是单调的,几乎是一维,但仍旧非
常性感的,”Schoen表示。他的Molecu les系列
下的“一维”香水都是以单一成分制成,例如龙涎
呋喃、vertiveryle acetate或是龙涎酮,而旗下的
Escentric系列则更为复杂,通过“在更大的香味
结构中把玩分子”来将古典与超现代风格的香调融
合。
在柏林的Frau Tonis,调香师使用更为私人化、
但不失启发性的手法。品牌以新香水勾起人们对过
去那些清冽且特征突出的香水的记忆,例如芳香扑
鼻的Aventure,以雪松木、琥珀、粉红胡椒等为主
香调,而让人联想起柏林著名的香椴树与紫罗兰的
Linde Berlin,则以1920年代为影星马琳黛德丽创
作的一款香水为基础。如果想创造一种真正独特的
招牌香味,不妨前往Checkpoint Charlie附近的
Frau Tonis门店自己调配,在纽约、米兰、巴塞罗那
和马德里的店铺中均有销售的Frau Tonis,是德国
香水仍对世界具有持续影响力的力证。品牌创始人
Stefanie Hanssen始终坚信,德国香水高品质与多
创新的声誉依然强盛。“香水必须来自法国或意大利
才会受到认可的时代已经结束了。”
m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com,
biehl-parfum.com,
escentric.com,
frau-tonis-parfum.com
globalblue.com
78
70: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,
环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
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Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只
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从豪华的行李箱到出色的智能手机,保时捷设
计缔造了诸多让人垂涎三尺的单品。我们的编辑
Ruairidh Pritchard拜访了这个德国品牌
时尚和功用性有时候相互排斥:在很多情况下,它们
可以成为对立的两极。然而在谈到既实用又美观的
设计时,德国人就是专家。几十年来,购买德国制造
一直是许多汽车爱好者优先考虑的选择,而保时捷
更是成为了全世界机车狂热者眼中跑车的典范。
最近,保时捷的服装和配饰产品线又让时尚消
费者们开始考虑购买德国制造。该系列是由这个著
名的跑车品牌创始人费迪南德·亚历山大·保时捷
(Ferdinand Alexander Porsche)在1972年推出
的,并在2003年以“保时捷设计”的名义重新发布。
现在,这个系列的产品包括行李箱、腕表、家居用品
和眼镜。电子产品也被囊括在内,比如各种高端不
锈钢的黑莓智能手机:最新推出的P’9982系列有
多款机身饰面可供选择,其中包括意大利皮革和鳄
鱼皮的手机背面。
2010年,保时捷设计推出了其由高品质制造工艺
打造的精选设计皮革产品。该系列的主打产品之一
是一件由纳帕小羊皮制作的皮夹克,这款尊贵独享
的夹克全世界仅限量200件。其他的单品包括了一
款由超软小山羊皮绒面制造的羽绒外套和Tec Flex
皮夹克,后者更是将有盖拉链口袋和耳机线圈结合
在一起。
在谈到为什么设计皮革系列可以脱颖而出的原因
52: In Focus: Porsche Design
聚焦:保时捷设计
时,保时捷设计的CEO于尔根·盖斯勒(Juergen
Gessler)博士说:“它在功用性和美学之间创造了
紧密的联系,可以和我们的产品组合无缝连接。我们
的理念保持不变:我们不追随潮流,我们只创造属于
自己的品味。其结果是,随意潇洒的风格让我们的
服装系列独一无二。”
最能够展示出该品牌将功用性与时尚无缝对接
的例子可能是其招牌手袋——TwinBag。采用最
高档的皮革为原料,经过佛罗伦萨工匠们的精雕
细琢,TwinBag最显著的特点是其创新的携带概
念——可调节式手柄可以让这款包既可以作为传统
的手袋使用,又可以被当作肩包。
每一款包都是由一整块单独的皮革制成的,然后
由娴熟的工匠手工缝制。内衬由最柔软的Alcantara
材料制成,金属配件则包括铬、银、白金及玫瑰金,
并采用先进的电镀工艺抛光。这堪称意大利工艺和
德国设计的完美结合。
TwinBag的成功促成了保时捷与柏林画家蒂
埃里·比诺(Thierry Noir)的合作。比诺将自己
招牌的手绘“心形脸”融入到TwinBag里,创作出
TwinBag特别版,并在2013年的巴塞尔迈阿密艺术
博览会展出。随后这款特别版的包在全世界选定的
保时捷设计专卖店出售。
“现代生活的速度改变了我们对世界的看法,唯
一合乎逻辑的结论是要将简约的设计与功用性相结
合。”保时捷设计的创意总监托马斯·施泰因布吕克
(Thomas Steinbrueck)说,“因此,我们创立了一
种风格,可以与新的生活环境和谐共存。它有结构但
又不能被定形,可以同时兼具休闲与正式。特别是,
我们运用了最新的材料研发技术,用于生产既让人
熟悉、又具有前瞻性的剪裁。”
在保时捷设计创立后的四十年,很显然它仍然遵
循了其创立者所设定的设计原则,是他主张“如果
分析一个物体的功能,其形式会变得显而易见”。就
保时捷设计来说,其形式不仅仅具有功用性,可能还
很明显,也十分美观。
porsche-design.com
的隔断,而背包的设计中则加入了可以收纳财物的
独立口袋。
德国式的精准与技术,或许在运动服上结合并
体现地最为淋漓尽致。该国众多的世界顶尖的专业
运动品牌,从Adidas与Bogner到Porsche Design
与Schoffel,都是将时尚与高性能运动服结合的领
导者。Adidas借助2014年索契冬奥会上的英国队,
展现了自己的技术实力。品牌提供的“发热裤”,使用
一种可自身发热的材料,以确保运动员们能在最适
合的温度下进行热身,而使用热塑性聚氨酯制造的
Powerweb西服,则能够吸收并反馈弹力,从而减少
肌肉疲劳。这或许听起来很科幻,但当同样技术制成
的服饰在不久的将来出现在你的衣橱中时,你几乎
可以确信这必然是德国品牌首率先推出的。
hugoboss.com, escada.com,
strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com,
adidas.com, bogner.com,
porsche-design.com,
schofel.com
79
When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free: 70
عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة
التسوق من دون تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة أكث من تسوقك ف لدى الال دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتدخر
العال. التسوق حول مناطق أبرز 270,000 متجر ف
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عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلوالسهلة. Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا
1.تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاص
باليصالت. تحتفظ أن بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكر
2.أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة
الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحدمكاتب الستداد الخاصة بنا.
للتصال:[email protected]
+421 232 111 111
ثن أنفق حدا أدن قدره 25€ وادخر حتى %14.5 من مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليهمجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. فبعض الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب
استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
البيض والزهري الشغول باستخدام تقنيات الطلء الكهربائة والتصميم اللان. ة اليطالي التطورة. إنه الدمج الثال للحرفي
الرسام بعد نجاح حقيبة TwinBag تم التعاون مع برسوماته الحقائب برلي. زخرف Thierry Noir القيم ف
عرضت قلوب” مبتكرا مجموعة خاصة القتبسة من “الوجوه ثم طرحت ف 2013Art Basel Miami Beach ومن
للبيع ف بعض محلت Porsche Design الختارة حولالعال.
يقول Thomas Steinbrueck، مدير التصميم لدىسعة بفعل للعال نظرتنا ت
Porsche Design: “تغي
الحياة العصية حيث بات الستنتاج النطقي الوحيد هو دمجة. لذا، ابتكرنا أسلوبا يتمش مع هذه التصميم البسيط بالعمليالبيئة الجديدة؛ أسلوبا منظملكن غي مركب، عمليا ورسميا فآن واحد. تجدر الشارة إل أننا استخدمنا أحدث تقنيات تطوير
الواد لبتداع قصات مألوفة ومبتكرة.”،Porsche Design بعد مرور أربع سنوات عل تأسيس
من الواضح أنها ما زالت تتبع مبادئ التصميم التي وضعهاسها الذي قال مرة إنه “لو حللت وظيفة قطعة معينة،
مؤسيتضح لك شكلها”. وف حالة Porsche Design، ليس الشكل
. جميل عمليا فحسب، وربا واضحا، بل أيضاporsche-design.com
过程:
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格
(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小票。
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他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的
退税点领取您的退税款。
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€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5
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80
الرهاق العضل. قد يبدو ذلك غي واقعي، لكن ل تتفاجأإن بدأت هذه التكنولوجيا تتسلل إل خزانتك ف الستقبل
القريب. وعل الرجح أنها ستكون من علمات تجارية ألانية.hugoboss.com ،escada.com ،strenesse.com
،mcmworldwide.com ،adidas.com
bogner.com ،porsche-design.com،schoffel.com
In Focus: Porsche Design : 52
Porsche Design :تحت الجهر
ة الميزة، تصمم من المتعة الفاخرة إل الهواتف الذكيالرغوبة. القطع واسعة من Porsche Design مجموعة
اللانية التجارية يزور Hamish Monk العلمة
ة والعكس صحيح: وف كثي غالبا ما تغيب الوضة بوجود العمليمن الحيان، قد يناقضا بعضهم البعض. لكن عندما نتحدث عنتصميم عمل وجميل ف الن عينه، يسطع نجم اللان. لطالا
Porsche ارات شاء العلمات اللانية وشكلت فضل محبو السية الول بالنسبة إل هواة الحركات حول العال. السيارة الرياضي
باللبس مؤخرا، تكن خط Porsche الخاص والكسسوارات من حمل متتبعي الوضة عل شاء تصاميم
Ferdinand قبل ألانية. أطلقت الجموعة سنة 1972 من Alexander Porsche، مؤسس السيارة الشهية. أعيد
إطلق العلمة سنة 2003 باسم Porsche Design لتشملة ونظارات. كم تضم أجهزة أمتعة وساعات ومستلزمات منزلية من ة مثل تشكيلة من هواتف BlackBerry الذكي إلكتوني
الفولذ العال الجودة القاوم للصدأ: يتوافر التصميم الكثبالجلد تصميم مغلف حداثة P’9982 بأناط مختلفة ومنها
اليطال أو جلد التمساح.سنة 2010، أطلقت Porsche Design مجموعتها منة عالية الجودة. ضمت الجموعة االسلع الجلدية البتكرة بحرفي
ستة جلدية من جلد النابا الدبوغ اقتصت عل 200قطعة حول العال. من القطع الخرى ستة مبطنة من الجلد
جيب ذات السويدي الفائق النعومة وستة Tec Flex جلدية بسحابات مقفلة وحلقات لسلك السمعات.
Porsche مدير ،Juergen Gessler يشح الدكتور: “تربط قائل الجلدية الجموعة ز Design التنفيذي، تي
ة والجمل بإتقان وتتمش مع منتجاتنا بانسيابية. ل يغي العمليذلك من مبدئنا؛ ل نتبع الوضة بل نبتكر أسلوبنا الخاص. بالتال،ة التي نخلقها ف ضمن فرادة مجموعاتنا ف تساهم الناقة العملي
مجال الزياء.”الفضل قد تكون حقيبة اليد الشهية TwinBag الثال ة والوضة. ابتكرت باستخدام عن دمج العلمة النسياب للعملي
أكث أنواع الجلود فرادة ونفذت بإتقان عل يد حرفيي فزت بطريقة حملها البتكرة. تتمتع بحملت قابلة فلورنس وتيللتعديل فتتيح للشخص حملها كحقيبة يد تقليدية أو تعليقها
عل الكتف.تصنع كل حقيبة من قطعة جلد واحدة، تقطب ف ما بعدطانة مصنوعة من مادة Alcantara الفائقة يدويا وبإتقان. البالنعومة وتشمل الكسسوارات العدنية الكروم والفضة والذهب
الفاخرة ف شتى بقاع الدنيا حاجة الرأة إل ملبس حقيقية؛تتمتع بشكل جميل ويسهل ارتداؤها.
لـ خذ عل سبيل الثال مجموعة Jason Wu الول النيقة ة العملي Hugo Boss. نظرا لشهرة Wu باللبس
العابثة بامتياز والفاخرة إل حد كبي، ربا ل يكن الخيار التوقعلعلمة تجارية معروفة بتصاميمها الذكورية الفائقة الدقة. لكنسلط هذا التعاون الضوء عل مكامن قوة العلمة اللانية. قبلالدروسة ة الثالي إطلق مجموعة الخريف/الشتاء، لح Wu إل
Hugo Boss التي تتبعها العلمة وأت ممزحا عل ذكر مقرالعصي ف Metzingen مسميا إياه “الحرم”. بالرغم
ة بوضوح ف ملبس Wu: معاطف من ذلك، تبز الدقة اللانيمزدوجة الوجه من الكشمي، مزودة بحزام عسكري أسود؛
ة منفذة بإتقان وساويل عملية؛ بدلت أنيقة ذات ستات شبابيبالضافة إل أوشحة محبوكة من الخمل الطويل تزين أكتاف
ة بامتياز. العارضات وتبدو دافئة لكن عمليلدمج بطريقة يفكر الذي الوحيد ليس Wu الصمم Escada Sport ة بالزياء الراقية. تشمل مجموعة العملي
ستات ة؛ منها العملي القطع الخية من Escada الكثي من من الفرو ملصقة للجسم مزودة بأحزمة؛ وستات مبطنة أو مندون أكمم مزودة بقبعات من الفرو، تنح الدفء وخفيفة الوزن؛معاطف وستات لاعة معزولة بحشوات وبطانات خفيفة الوزن. ة من دون كعب وقد تم تنسيق كل هذه القطع مع أحذية عملي
مصممة لتكون مريحة وفائقة الناقة. العملية الستات الوضع ممثل لدى Strenesse حيث الخفيفة الوزن ذات حواش من الفرو، تنح الدفء وتلبس معقة قة. ثة أيضا ستات ضي ة مرتبة وساويل ضي فساتي عمليHugo يكسوها الفرو من الداخل وعل الكمم. وعل غرار
Boss، تبقى البدلة العصية الصقولة هي التصميم البرز التميز
ة لكن الصمم ليبدو شديد الناقة، خصوصا مع ساويل بالعمليفضفاضة بأبهت ألوان الرمادي أو الفحمي أو البيج الزهري
الناعم.ة عل الكسسوارات تجدر الشارة إل تطبيق مبدأ العملي
صغية بحقائب التقنة أيضا. تكلل Strenesse تصاميمها MCM مزودة بسلسل لتحمل بشكل قطري. أما لدى علمةMichael Michalsky الواقعة ف ميونخ، فأعطى الصممحياة الرأة العملية الولوية لدى تصميمه حقائب فاخرة؛ ثة
ة مثل جهاز الكمبيوتر أقسام مخصصة للغراض التكنولوجيالحمول والـ iPad، ف حي زودت حقائب الظهر بجيب فردية
لحتواء الغراض الشخصية.ة والدراية التكنولوجية قد يكون الدمج المثل للدقة اللاني
ة العالية ف اللبس الرياضية. تأت العلمات التجارية اللانيBognerو Adidas ة مثل الشهرة الختصة باللبس الرياضيلدى مزج الصدارة وPorsche Design وSchoffel ف
عرض ة العملية. تكنت Adidas من الوضة باللبس الرياضيكافة إنجازاتها الجديدة عندما ألبست الفريق البيطان ف
سوتش. ابتكرت ة الشتوية 2014 ف مدينة اللعاب الولومبية التدفئة لتزويد العلمة “ساويل حرارة” وملبس ذاتي
ي بالحرارة الثالية ف خلل حصص التدريب، بالضافة إل الرياضيThermoplastic مصنوعة من مادة Powerweb بدلتلتقليص الرونة وتعيدها تحفظ طاقة Polyurethane ال
،
81
Freshness In A Bottle: 40
إنتعاش ف زجاجة
ترجمة باللغة العربية
Eau ارون اللان بالبتكار منذ إطلق العطر الخفف
اشتهر العطبجدارة هذا الحديثة العطور تخلف de Cologne. واليوم
Gwyneth Holland الشذى الكلسيك، تقرير
اقتنت مساهمة العطارين اللان ف عال العطور بالبتكاروالباعة لقرون. ولطالا شكل Eau de Cologne العطرالشهر ف ألانيا؛ركبه Giovanni Maria Farina سنة
Farina أوروبا. قال الالكة ف الس كافة به 1709 وتعطرت
الشذى النعش ذكره بـ “صباح يوم إيطال ربيعي، حيث إنتفوح رائحة النجس الجبل وبراعم البتقال بعد الطر”، بعيدا
كل البعد عن العطور القوية الحلوة غي العقدة آنذاك. ابتكرEau de ات وبعض العشاب سمي عطرا من شذى الحمضينوعا جديدا تاما من Cologne تيمنا بدينته، وخلق معه
قرون. ثلثة بعد مرور العطور. ما زال ابتكار Farina ينتج تكن من التأثي عل أشهر عطر مخفف ف العال وهو 4711ة وشذاه الذي ما زال مشهورا عاليا لطريقة توضيبه الكلسيكي
Mäurer & اللطيف النعش. تتلكه اليوم شكة العطورتتوسع الصلية، لكن تركيبته بحسب يحض زال Wirtz وما
العلمة لتشمل جمهورا أكب من خلل عطورها الجديدةعل ة اليطالي والنساء ولستها Wunderwasser للرجال
.Acqua Colonia العطر الخفف ف مجموعةة الجديدة بعد النتشار ربا ل تحقق دور العطور اللاني
بعد تتمتع العالي الذي حققه عطر ناجح مثل 4711 ول Farina بطابع العطر الفرنس الميز لكنها تكمل عمل
الرائد من خلل تطعيم شذاها بالباعة والبتكار والفرادة. JF الراقية العطور علمة يقول Tamas Tagscherer من Schwarzlose، الواقعة ف برلي والختصة بالعطور الفاخرة
التي تعكس أسلوب الدينة، يقول: “ألانيا بلد البتكارات، حيثيعمل الناس عل أحلمهم ويطمحون إل خلق شء جديد.”
تأسست JF Schwarzlose سنة 1856 وأعيدLutz Herrmann الصمم إطلقها سنة 2012 بإدارة
Tamas التسويق والعطارة Véronique Nyberg وخبي باسم الشكة أطلقته الذي الخي العطر Tagscherer. يلخص
التغي وطابعها عل البتكرة وقدرتها برلي Zeitgeist روح
الحس من خلل العنب والسك وخشب الصندل المزوج معزالت مادت calone وedelonide. يقول Tagschere: “ما ة مختصة بالعطور جديدة وغي فكرة وجود علمة تجارية ألانيمألوفة بالنسبة إل معظم الناس، لذا يجدونها أمرا مبتكرا ومثيا
للهتمم.”Biehl تجدر الشارة إل أن بعض الشاريع مثل
ألانيا تعزز شهرة Parfumkunstwerke ف هامبورغ
بالعطور البتكرة غي العتيادية من خلل الرتقاء بالعطر إلمستوى الفن. يعمل العطار الشهي Thorsten Biehl معبعض أبرز الخباء ف مجال العطور ليبتكر روائح فريدة من
Mark ات محدودة. يكن “فنانو العطور” أمثال نوعها وبكمي
Buxton وArturetto Landi وPatricia Choux و
Engon Oelkers وGeza Schoen، ومن دون ضغوطات
ي. ي العطور الحقيقي زة لحب تسويقية، أن يبتكروا روائح مميبـ تقدم علمة العطور Escentric Molecules الخاصة
الدقيقي. متوقعة لخباء العطور غي Geza Schoen روائح
أصدقائ اعتب معظم الصدد: “لطالا تقول Schoen ف هذا العطر كثيا جدا، حلوا جدا، قويا جدا، معززا جدا برائحة
الفاكهة... ففكرت أنه من الستحسن استخدام الرائحة كهالةأكث منها كعطر نوذجي، لذا كان ل بد أن يكون طوليا، أحاديالبعد تقريبا، لكن شديد الجاذبية.” تقوم عطورها “الحادية
واحد مثل البعد” ف مجموعة Molecules عل مكون ،Iso E Super أو vertiveryle acetate أو ambroxan
خلل تعقيدا “من ف حي تأت مجموعة Escentric أكث التلعب بالجزيئة ف تركيبة عطر أكب” عب دمج العناص
ة والفائقة الحداثة مع بعضها البعض. الكلسيكيالعطارون برلي، فيعتمد أما لدى علمة Frau Tonis ف
ة ل تقل إلهاما عن غيها. تحيي العلمة مقاربة أكث خصوصيAventure زة من خلل روائح جديدة مثل عطور الاض المي
Lindeالكون من خشب الرز والعنب والفلفل الوردي وبرلي الشهية ف العطرة الزيزفون بأشجار يذكر الذي Berlin
Marlene Dietrich لـ ابتكر عطر وViolet الستوحى من ف العشينات. ولبتكار شذى فريد من نوعه، يكن زوار
Checkpoint بالقرب من برلي متجر Frau Tonis ف اليوم العلمة عطور الخاص. تباع عطرهم Charlie تركيب
ف محلت ف نيويورك وميلنو وبرشلونة ومدريد وهي خيمثال عل أثر ألانيا الستمر عل عال العطور. أسست العلمةاللانية العطور أن شهرة تؤمن Stefanie Hanssen التي
بالجودة والبتكار قوية كم كانت عل الدوام. “من الؤكد أنهول الزمن الذي كان ل بد فيه للعطر أن يأت من فرنسا أو إيطاليا
ليعرف.”،m-w.de ،schwarzloseberlin.com
،biehl-parfum.com ،escentric.com
frau-tonis-parfum.com
Form And Function: 46
الشكل والعملية
ة بالدقة عاليا با ف ذلك العلمات التجارية تشتهر الصناعة اللانية بالزياء. وقد استغنمت هذه الفرصة الجموعات
الختصClare Coulson الشتوية للعلمات البرز ف البلد، تقرير
مض،مع بروز كل بلد ف ة أكث من أي وقت باتت الزياء عالية الفاخرة وما ون باللبس الرياضي مجال معي. يتفوق الميكيمن أحد يضاهي الطليان بالجلود ف حي تبقى باريس مقصدا
للسلوب النيق النثوي. غالبا ما يتم الحديث عن الدقة اللانيةارات خارقة، ويكن ف كل شء من تكنولوجيا متقدمة إل سي
تطبيقها أيضا عل العلمات التجارية الختصة بالزياء.ة بالعملية والحتاف ف التصميم ز العلمات اللاني تتمي
والتصنيع فتفتخر بواقعيتها الفطرية التي تأت ف الوقت الناسبتاما. تشهد الزياء تغيا جذريا نتيجة إدراك العلمات التجارية
82 | PRODUCTS
Souvenir
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
the natural and the hand-painted. Unexpected
materials such as opal glass, ceramics, wood,
stone or rubber are intricately set alongside
luxurious crystal rhinestones. Each piece of
jewellery by Konplott is assembled by hand
in limited numbers, making this necklace
exclusive as well as enchanting. hl
Konplott necklace, €398,
Konplott, Mittelstrasse 29,
50672 Cologne,
+49 (0)221 258 9308,
konplott.com
* for map go to page 64
MIXED MATERIALS
Let German fne jewellery label Konplott
wash away your winter blues with this bright
and beautiful statement necklace. Founded by
designer Miranda Konstantinidou almost two
decades ago, the brand produces eye-catching,
colourful jewellery made from hand-selected
materials. As with this coral-coloured creation,
each piece is crafted from a wide variety of
beads and stones sourced from across the
world, and includes the old and the new,
TOM TAILOR STORE KÖLN, HOHE STRASSE 137
G o l d e n S w o r d S C l u tC h
Meissen®-Porzellan-shoP Köln · WallrafPlatz 3 · tel: 0221 2585677