SHOES AND PATTENS

MEDIEVOBITTARY

]largrethe de Neersadd, Fn Hr

Virye$e de Neelqad dred n ,^@i 19s7, dtbe hd.:iy ear\ 4e or 34, ju* as $s bo.k

il ror sev.ral yeds, and n h r dbdei. her bnvery, dekhiidloi rd sheer

4ihusi$m lor the sbjEd thd dApire pati,rdr$birity she Ms,ble ro bhns $ose sections

for {hi.h she sas ctue0y respons'ble -shamtiw ard Cat,ttn4

ai Shu: in An atu Lit rdLutu -

ST

\

c

MEDIEVAL FINDS FROMEXCAVATIONS IN LONDON: 2

SHOES AND PATTENSFrancis Grew and Mar$ethe de Neergaard

lllustrations bI Susan Mitford

THE BOYDELL PRISS

@ rt33,200r urcurolLondon

,1/ R(r' -erdl.r. ff,dp, r P.rmiticd ddd flff. l.gillanon

no p of rhn work nrl be phoo@picn, noRd in a ttijeval tdcEptr6LL5hcd, pdlomrd i'rpubli. rdaFtd, brcad@i

msmiftcd, (did€d or (Pioduced in uv rdm or bv nf nsnq

{irhotr, ilrpriorPcmrsion of thc !oP)iigbI ow!&

Fn$ puunhed lt33Hd Maie5.I s Sbdon.ry Ofll<

Nsv <dnion 2001Repin(d 2002, 2004

Th. Bolde[ r(s, Voodbridse

rsBN o 35rr5 333 2

A Nlu$uD ofL o! rubln onNtuRum of London, I ondor Vtll.

l , ! dd ,ECI tHNw.mNunoflondon olg uk

'r]t Bovdcll lre$ n in iDpi'n ol Boldrll & Brew{ LtdPO Bo\ 9, \Uoodbidgq Sullolk lP r 2 3DF. UK

,t oiBoldcll & Bre$fhtPO Box 41026, Ro.hen(, NY 14604-4126, USA

wwboticll.o uk

AdRloguc rt.od aorrh; 6ook i anil,hlearon dr Brni5h Lihflry

Libdry of Corgr.$ Crhlog card NuDbo, 20010i2'r20

Ths pubkrtioo ir princdon a.id liee PiP.f

lrinad in Ct{ BiGin bySr Edmundstu4 P'e!5 Lihnrd. Btr.ySt Edmund5, Sufiolk

Contents

i'3 netho&, archiv€ and conEntions

&!n Lo.don sites, 1100_1450..'t lzhtdtlry - kbr 12k dntua 'a t/n1de'i: flid t4k drtn4

*Lott, .h@,oL 4c litlsd am airadn dttnc l1u?a db - b r . n ' a a t i F t d t F d . a 4 n H . h a v d " ^ b ' r ' a 1 4 P i r h o ' d;n* i,,-'dr10'w.d to' lurts tb) rtdn Edd\ ' '$ai'ond4u'

att'rtot,4 . t ' lt t. r.. ,r^ h"hq Nr'| ,lJtt-trth 'atu'.

and w€r prkems: so.irlinler€n.eBaa wa'ttu. onn a4anira ol thr kd

and lit'fta t nlkts lata - tuh,t : t"d .hlvtd\ sh6

of tu!.€s a.d.dn.oidance

o) c,agn ri,, (by Kdhdine sbniq)

lsh dnt@ - ldt. 13k ond .ub l,lh

Darie 'n French rd Geman

Acknowledgements

i ] u ] r ] snd } |q rudcn .conm* id ' )

r:.1, ii '1,. ro d, I nim hsuime C'ouP

:: ! :1..t trord{,lJdEc lrlmJoniidrl'e\i.,:,, i,. sdrLrts Conitrsor llrLLh$4r!''

:i r' ltsL!tr Cmirn

i i.{\trD L:bor,t.rr: b tL liddf (Brir\[

I J . r r l , r r r{rrrd f.rd.s Ren:dr aio.i!'rID' Etr'i-:

,id lirir,lL{L.l'e ilron{r1trprolidirgnLmrrii'n ll'eid, mi C.rmD r+edi!.lv to J.tr Brle!T*for rl!6r and Jii sdrier of 1rr. IIU+um s

!, Jol 'lui! tm'lhrk. ro$ ri,!i. CeoJi Esrn oLlr Corrirz\nlm \lrcr!o,.PIi,l,rtd llksrh tsDisFr.er Jum S{xirRo, lrrrL;$ lLr \nr. rnd11ilv Cnr'n'n

md rontnldbi\ t, tltr kn 1rd. iirllr r' fild

second editionInrroductionto

..in{5ioruLobt(rt. f u{i.riq ur q {

. i r r r i 5 1 f o u d r L J u d : p , ! . ; . . o a , h !

.: ]qq r ofl.tr! i tf iqri ir(, !h !F qq {: : ] u . l b @ k . l j q l m d , | W } l L s h r @ t h c

: 0 { ( r l P u b r i j h d $ { 4 , \ r t h q 6 h F f ' o | h q

d L E n L a l c . { u d ! P o i d e ] c q n . ! . . . . ] t q j l j

. j i ! tu{rqlabrr.u L ptrn !f *! o{ 500,ha!

(ri l i n! ronj Gfrrt, Po L,f(oNF94r r0$rc

<trucr rod GliLdhrLiclle:, hc Lh rc i21han r!f ru,| n! ! odi ! +! sbi.. d i

@ras i rrir; i. i ,{urd rin! Llqi i in(k

Tl\t i*$( FqLPs{ft &k<d lTibLcrri ms,

rq lfd Lr$,hq(

d.irrrnid r4(h (NrrorbLc t.+p.s,i d!

lEi Dtr!( &c4b a l'!0,72,,lJb l. o?$ 1'7)'

rc\ ufnillrL r,! 4 ' n' i |lcrc rpr ns bca$.

r 5 1 N * 6 L 1 u . r , L J i ! d ! r { s e r t n t ) r t r i o d d

P o $ j b c t | $ u g h n g i | h

&qk, nr{ $rih. vi,h r,hd'qhi. ircud

iraNto' .oi,hc cos dissed 4 PP eHm'orsh6 Fi{& h1E6ef prctccl'Lc, rod br dde

o i c r o i ( F h i f . . r . " q n , 1 4 . + . f t r l '

L u @ . . + ( d r - @ $ l cfie a6coid. qqhod Jectcd i! Fk' I t. iod Fis5

l 0 ] . ] s h r y . h { + d ! n d P . f t { d J h d l dtbft $.daoidrotri( iall, h rh.clo$!riP r25),

bodon 6id! \ 'rhin , , &r rcdor d bo' ir

ibou nqdiq! iho.6\hiD, bu . va {rnGi oo

-.;*-,r E***'.b.r"" md.d*hutr," resGmd eos (fd {rl;r $rk, {c srL .k re!r. '1 r7)

,- -,i-"r.bi; 6',h

s*;6-s rc;-^- *' vi*.i)sc re$)

v 4 r 4 e % ! n i

roDsRr? 1s(boi.k r994) iid ror tbr N<hd0odrOl1f 6oubLE! d.f ie qorr $rr rPPdr soo(crcennin u, vh*<irg., qn D&lMuqr &c ! ! 6 n r h P G $ )

roosq tr ,L{ hnr dtlv b{s ilun $ tu in binodepqi6 Pr&ul rLoidoD&bN6qbigr,hGrcNhiqrnNrcibe

kncc (c&swo En vinahsc r%a tG nhm+

oL;ciDs,lt dn(ibuioi or knovD dDJ!, cknriin.i.r,-.i h. l'.|..d.h" i.trjg.hs 'r.-rt*.h*

ont no,Ly sed *6nsdi n I iJui 5 frr cN s\oirqod bi B(\ qi or \.hl.vtg 6chm.[leer, r11l) b nq.nc! ( ma/hr! ud 6e.

diffG"a! i dntjbdn! takc sliP o, sh4s. -_{'

d r o , ! ( T r b . : r ' h f l r n o r f r o m ( h . n h-;*, Gi6rr.w&r$hcqFdryduhq,h! n!r4rh ;d inh <doia 'Lip-4s -q! high E5hio!$oe, dh u do!!s( hfl rnd EoP 6rr<kr994,20i FDqqLir r99t r6r 4) o!?nll. oo.i{irL

c, idx. rc" p3nE u rc {!lrkrh.;disribuio

,orurtdraookn' [! Gosoiscd thc lhoid

sho.mrtr5 q.6 T qo n u n < ! i 4 . h f n , l i r d e m L o r d i h m " ) ' l hcrary 6i,,h rsj4, !r5xi rc- jn.lE Britkhr,{Ln4o), for the q(od &NidQbLrrhc drg! o}

BAA\(ASsER, \{ &COLTBITZ. O,1990 Ledo llor en rexiele lbndsrcD, i! H dfln & Ivl 5n4

vn$aLr k rtil: ntt'tukgtrtb un&t tu Kl\Pd t37t )925 YrnP'r io'"

EGAN C& PruTCri$D,F,1991 Drs,4rs'r;{ Mcdila'l Finds 'rcD h'xv on5 i! t'ndon'

IINGERjrN, r. rggt Der hdenhAll, r M UntlEmr (.di Di' Ltn "/'t

A's'r'x?ffin1'

Kkn?s j, Fribrr! i,t B4gn!, ae irlh.lic zuf tu hiologn h BrdclvinEDb$g, 3 1 (stutrgxn)

GROENldAr.i VAN vAATENNGE, V t 3! Di Lkl.tfae u' Hr'('! Bei'hre iib( dr€

Auig b(ne.n!, Hanhebu. zl (NqDtste4

GROENI{AN !A\ \1,A,:!IF.RINCL,.$I'1E L 'tufad M.'lttt/ sa'l"{. Thc Arlhiolog)

oiMcJn!,I S\€ndbdig. D.om{k, 5 (Odensunreriq PruJ

L i r " \ N \ ' \ r L A c r . , L . \ \ . \ ' \ \ D o . t v p t , t , a u . B i t / , O . n r r' t a a t 3 . L , o - - , , . / o r , . , h , . r s , , o . , , , r

I r\lBErfr, F, rtzr Sometr.or Fxardonsin L.DJon. Axtr4rtrSi4Tt,5i \12

:_iRsF:N,^.199t,%,krz4.fheBrJ,gg.nprpr6,4(unive(i(oaBqx.i.s.hd{ivixnUntve6i*

. n T t M p D I l " I t o o a . " , ' \ . . . o . o - h , . , h a . t , . , j' ' d f , a . e o o B i o P ^ ! . . L 1 " . : . t r 0

.,:r{NAC.C,1192 Di nrnktttih,, Sthi. ta sitrb,uig A,,snb!,U S.ttjtA j 97t 197r, Aan:::btrnBen !' schlsNig, Bdnhr und Sndi.n. l0 (Neu,itr(;

rf i;oroer.m srder witrrmbss lc/t!trarrr

..:lTH,CR, r35,t C4 c!1r 'ftlE M$an af bnbn Artir,ri, ']an,Jor)

i{)\'L{S, C, 5t OANE B & PHILTPOTTS. C, l9t7 Eaura$ i,ttt, tritll ont H^rifut,}.Sl.!:. stid! r.and'\ MaL\s \Ionac(fh sri.s, I (Mu$um oi London)

: r!!J,r rd hm ben pcdtrtc io Nrnr thi5 tnrcdudo, *nLout lhe gricrcus r!$n.e ofohiL O . . . \ ' o u t J

- .

1 - , - , D . j . . " . 5 R r d . . , d / o . . . . o v , , T "

: . irdo inaonudon ,6ou rhc5ire5trndlhcnd ng, se Egtrr & prir.hxJd 1991,l-12 The t6!e- . " r o u p a r i r i , T . b k . " . n o , o . " . e d , D o s . * r o n r , r d , o ( o t r o

. d 5 e , d , - , o o 0 . t h " p " . n r o , B t r B o . d " ; , . c . r c . . , . o :, . . . , p o , . q o p F . d . . " . i t , " .

- . r o l t o . . . . , -l rhe coNo(la(<, pp 129 r0 *trh Egin & rlnchrid 199r,6 s)

: :,r( bu.kls. $c at$ EFn & prndDa r9,l,66_/ s67

Key

Fe nnld spleadon of d. cc wd e clNry, pp. r2].5

Grain/flesh stitching

Edge/flesh stitchirg

Birding-stitch

Tmel-stitching

Introduction

: r\lde^ e iri d 'he cvoLution or dlrter!'r { fle:

l-.dhff dn!ni* riJ iiru.'obn.ondL.oDi

.. :Ls dr pr!dudoiinun,rr rh,llLo.oponri

rLL\ bd$e.n rlre q, dll]LL rid rltr Lordon

abloqEs lCuiLdhiLL'lr.r 191)3; l-.ddor \lusdm l93a: re10) n

l l9) bLr i ' hi! blsl

:ildr lf,e .o,n.ded

-. q, r,c tuilj, brnrt oJ the lrime\ (rar.

r.ndu?r mr.mL (for

nerrrod. Sixo \omnfidrer. trl, trm,r,.

des.nbediorn)n0..lurtr!lone!oIallLotrdorrird. rr lhn d!! lrnr.lrfd fotl'.oitrtrsi {lji.

p l ob :b l ! b .LncL |dednr iuLL t r4 .o thaTudo l

pFLensi!. rni e[|1o hi]eni foilDjd:Ll..ie

pmisrnorniior r,ndiorsrM dd:ilr rbef m

pErd ,irm the b.eil l ig d.Ni . i 11[

ruturaseie.rioN ltrthrfirt.bsoter.slAt,i

ffiIt t'

+I

' . .

FI

h1l-

u,=tEo=

E'oa

='GI

iottE|(oo

U'ct-o-oto(DCL

-!1

o

-oooCL

t-oo(D

@co(D

tr0r I inerubl! to r0..rhnt s$r(.!. btrl

(l) rlr. heighr or tl '. quncn +o.i beDg

drrrer or lrctng k.

(3) rh. fd r nrp,tdl rr. tu iniD.e.

or dr b!*L! r., {ef51i n!riin! +r: f.on

ihnugh the r.ltb .cffuc

nu\t hi!e heei iLm,n

rodi!. The Lrrer nrLes \rcrt qft!i rlr! nds riarvrLk donffiDs dtr slft l+drLr,,3er ot1h.n

r'rtrli eiiolld I brer losue

lhith \.re popu f d di. b.ghms or rlp rrli.em'ry :|d trstrh. p*bi0! fd mo seientions d

d! nde lred boor.

r sone is$ mrde plsLbLe b! th. r.rrnriLdrrdDrrnrs thrt re d'$trsad ii rhe se.ond.bipter. srr,,!,l,{.r/ ,rrri,r (rr 11 90).

h $ *rii.rLsaNe tu rc.hDque or !wtn*i

rhoserbdm:da:hoesnorerde4niof ;.n r

(ould te y\i inh the Arisimq ro*:lrlie

?endd !d r r ! r , r rDd( r r r rL6L r y n l ( i n

brmfr irn, i iii ! r! drdl ig rhe upDer rrom i

cDmpai!. ndsed, h:d ..,& into beiis rry t2i? ir

rh? cred Fire !rtdude: rnr d&r!d .r!nigx.

or de.ontion s.r inro

eignred rdrte morfs ts.r blLdr $ tqi6)id, ,s :hofn n ihe loLLo iN .hrpr. Parotr

t ] f N ' ! l b d ' B n [ L l l t r . i t r L ) l n h 1 , d N

T l ] ! | ] d f o l | l [ p i ' t r t r m d d $ t n n g

' ] n . d j . ! l r . ' t s A \ j L [ n r t r r l | u ] i t r g | i U e:. .m rro0 lk d'Pt{ d si/i 0rr df &r

| ' - n ! [ r l . . d * ! ' - " . h . r . . " . , h . " '

.j i, i. r Ldsif dirla\ rh6 ri b

r'fi rehjY. rhtrs n) m! ind f'r m trtr

, . : , i { 2 0 1 3 ! & T ? r r b : 2 ) 1 ! r t r l r e n u e

:, rhe\ Dl! IIQ rfrd$ I'on sDoi iid.r

:!!! rrri Ei? ft +!dd mtLlo: om$ids'il,! &hfolo4(nrttu.d Fsq\ ne m6'-rn 0i $r,.h i.e ltreb Lods md lrkns

'!Do{r l !{nfds

f h t r l 6 b u t l l n t b r i i t r ! t l d k j | | ! k l e

r 4 i L d t h p , . ! r . . d

n r , i j l c u l ] d n l . i { | [ 0 L o g ] i L l i i d l \ m t d

!.;;. {i s -, i ': .Qr{

rhi.{ Ddidl d'd+t id's ir moDrrndmdift nlLri+Likd.r rNsibrelrdminn'

, : i . A l h i ) t i

| j t r d ' ] . f d e ] { v h d !

uhlitrm ?r ro(5, \hd' Pre\firbtr Nde nor

rrly r.de ii the lms tr vilass vhm theyweE sold .rd !sed, ; r idther indistid of s.hl!fuiioBl cll'mtd oJ mrtLwest Europ. hmdi*altim*'pnendr.fieexch,'georidesat€venthe hnhlestlcv.lvas hcljued lry Fide,s$dbiE snd @ass !wel. h thir f.r, d€srudy otfoo!{€d in L\e lre&nt olldidn 6 b.resarrled 6 a snhluiim nd o.ly b ilE iistoryofLndd bur b tne bi*ory olEnrope s a whole.

Recording methods, archive andconventions used in thereport

r,,rtrds c*lLr ui Trig Lrie *4e eilo:cd n

m d t e h L g e t l l m e n t { i l h d . b j ] s ' i i ? $ e n D g '

Ra(i*{.d Frds : ue

]ibe]hd {j$ trr mn|,* ,,1 'ht iidnsben;

r t I ' \ . i r h i i u t T ! L l i F r r n B m s _ - n ii r s ? F . . J r n . F . . p i . t o l J i r

N.re r.rifl lri l! {trrixnr. Th. {,rb{ oa

.i+,,:-*{r;i*:ruh;tsll'ur*+t*tff*ffi

s,'@r dri Pd'ta_

{herc. s nih$ thev mav l'c e\:mred bv pnor

rlr:.l**,:l*' +l,rri"ttil"''ft''Illti;1;il"iffi;:jir ii,,i.'.;rrk,i ;""'"

--n'f,;ruti';ffi:; slrlt i,;n *;lli[l

SI

Shoes from London sites, 1100-1450

I rrtrs d'iprer n,oe h$jo^s jn i_o on Dytr a

l!.{saso.i]td{iiljt[!nlesjlrDseNesf

1 J' d'. d.posns ! rlhjfh the! \ere jou and

id Ln ihe jnu*Etions ro d.mre hn ind nshl

Egi*otion iu,bG {d;dividnLddes, aie to6e ian\dnnhe L tnI/t$q odn,ard'"attp.126 30) iod.,"\pLoded dn\unesotn yshoes,

frrNnB.h.prripp. 51 71).

lhe eaitinid 121h.elrury ([ig 3)

rb. Lzth .enn'n rnd rlert lound ln jui ts!drpor6. { Scr Ho$e xnd tsilljngsgde Tlre

respedLvPl' ) bf !i

kom rhe $yles ?nd t.hiiquei of the Dre&ding

oi rhe one h?nd G.cPnrhd r.{hdDins) 10 those ol the hter 12th

oDe ot lbe sboes trom Billi.gsFte is r in*nc

indii'on mcoaoDting man] or the.hr4tensticrcdurcs or London rootsetr or rhe rxh .enlury(rig. 4). rt \€s :r,io{ cetuidt ?n anue shoe,onri:llr rulju$.boye the ankLe bone, ed the

r refr tmt.r Irn,tu shoeGeeberow p 47) andlo$iblr usins {ool n(her

noh,L ? q-mz4in on the eper aid , ro{ olruiner $jr.hes on rhe sole, nset srishdy fron theedge Gee also FE.3, e p. s1).'fhe s.le nirrghr sided s yet wirho4 the ruif rharrypilies m/Ly :l r:rer nediev, ?nd noder.sboes,aidhasakpeniB,Finledheel*hi.hnses

shaped cm-om Ln tlrl qurde^. Trre upper is .r

, sroup ot seven dosety

deposib $se$ Norld have.ontaned: paf olshod inteNoyen thones (Parhed forh.oniq)These rhongs wert prGun:bry onuneibr - ord no* helped to hold rhe loper in +ape rt theqftteG - :id ii h tr r kD.$n hos rhe shoe itselt

All the other items in the e t lzi]]reiturt

respeds. The nod obviors is rhd the sotes,aL$ough sr qdte suaigr,r,sided fe invarobltrlar dd rouided a! the heel. The qnden $eresone!fusdrenlthenedonlhensde$1tnati

'r,eer $iffen8r' {hose rom my id tad hare

sole (F. Pnthad, pns. .omm.). At rhe srmetina the bsic .onsh.tion of shoes *At?.slomed by dis.eding

$nps or oids ware fomd in rhe presenr deposirsno0e oI these ath.hed to a shoe - rnd the fact

thdthehnlgmginsnonanyhaveverysnddoselyapaced eithes Gee belov o. ,13) is a

Edly l2th.centdry shoes sen either to hayebeen poft .s slip.ons or to haye been hiened{ilhaleatherthoq- dnwnriq' suppofredin

heisht betveei $ose cut di.bht on the lne ofthe,nlde la g Ft. 6) .id those nsing t oi 2 inches(25-50 m) abore it (e{. Fus. 5 & 3), w{e byrar the mon pop'nr s$le. Th8re ee ody $ohe shoes (FiF. 7 & l1), and only oie booi: &ish of a distincrie type ro be described i, rhe n,axtse.rion (pp. r!r5&Fi$. t5-16) $hereby the

Ilo{ shoes {er poinr.d d rhe roe, bu1 nieLr{n rhF hzre been so essse red .s on ls!a.ue sho4 ron sear Hruse (Fts 5 6). The

tr4mlr hile been *ufed to Eiain thcn sMpe,dnsr,.o $jde^.e ror rhn suniyes This {as anle sblrh fldier Londor 6nds md hinondl$urcs sho{ !, ru! o.rdod D ihe hr rxhrd(! (Parclrrd ronh.ominsr, Lu! \'hi.h istund od, nrery in dep.sirs Do{.ddi0s.ll50|dhshmsac la 'geso l l u t l h {Ne Iepmb?b l !

niudiod {nh i i14,.:t main seam otr rlE iin45de One G.omplcr. bui lor a sdlLi.5e( d rhelunp ihro* aDd {s rareied b! quire r brorddnrEtrne ({id$ oa rqtre$jd 6 mm) pasingrhtuughasinsrarovotslor(Ft 5) As on mtr)lhocs or d'is 'he (ql Figs. 7, 3) :.d larer, ibeie

edle From the lar8 13$ .eitufy o.eads rhi:i mon inva.ablr sc. b n{k rhe lomer presen.e or? ledher ed!ru $np. or topbmd , bd

Ior the r? i aid early l3rh.enruncs, {hei ve!.'low slth ioob:.ds have suflved, olner exp]?fr

rt .ortd hrE been osed roserre a fabn. tr tur rhins shi.h is nov misine orit may bp &t tbe edge s:s meieh boDd {irhtbread The,tu4emen6 d th. froar oI the sr,oem uideu, but rbe posiron or $e sifubiljl (Fi333) sqsens thd d'c i'isi's i.sen an nshtfr$ lbe in$ep dd mtry elen h?!r orertappedrhe siun fl:p oa lje olhs side. ln this ':y the

dros esyLnrdnolthe ao.i aid rhei.losed rorolm a snug doubleahnkies se,l. The kcondiikre shoe requned io insers ?nd zppem robzrt beei ., sriFn IFe Mh .o adduioiallzneut OB 0) ln ilns ssc, th. ,bsei.e olniidios Gis. 34)openq d lbe ump trmar, add, A oi n.$ shoesd rhn dde, $e leainer hrs been.urand se?medrms ,r idcp t, p(ryide fleibitih * the point{hfte ir baids slrarpry ftom the hoazonbr ro irE

Mey of the fedurts des.nhed re.ur on o$cr3hoes { thi\ pcnod, thoud the toes de odlsliEhtLy pninted A r:rge nmber, hostver Fde.onted vlrh eFbrdide.) iormally {ith adnpcrmingdomthe.e re ofihe vamp, btri inoie iiid.e also uth ? b?nd oi rle qndcA Gc.helos, i ?5 9. nns is a lom ol orabeii$b.h r 6r* re.oided in Loidon deposiis oI iheLre 11th cenrury - thoush dsawl'u. pcrhaps

popuh Ior .bo!t , .eitury, brely odlrws the12thanttrq.Shoes di vanp {npcs *ere mrdeii . rrso ofsizcs (tbe lour thd are 'io* .ompretene*Ure ..177 (Fig. 3)(Fis 7), .orcspoMing to the moded stes l0(.hiro r1 Gbird) I (aduu) ad. probably, 3 (xdtrLt)respedllely) and asixunntiom Gee belo{ p. l13l mun bave beenlon by both mei lnd woner, droueh thet

re{aded to those o( high {,ixlshr$ li'.om'Frisoi *iri rho larscr boo6 ind ankk r,oes lcr.Fis.5) sboes ol rlis knd seem q relsht!!ndErnd jt is po$ible thd ilq rer. inrended mriDly

o'rly one ol rbe embrojdered pie.es in th.presed groups r cedai'nr troD a d'oe ntl'.r tha

an an*le shoe (F,g. 7). In mrny ftspecG it is rery

olese]:]]Ioigpie.e.oistructiod:]beil*'i 'ha shU d;! insen (Do{ ni$ing) toig lbe dpperedse on the inner side - ind h i.s r smal vediul

tened *lrh drapsrid8s vhich Dds tkoush asiisle, or in one cAe i double. tus oI slotusuany o.e sLot on eitber side ol the rrep. Theillu*Eted exmpb (r,g. s) hd a *npe made up oI

\

:irt. nr$ rr e'iLr.ldefl, rarher rlun : rqle: \ r A o , i l , e + o e

lhe rll]; sho,"rotlh 5d,e.xnle i'mmrised

uJe : $:ll rnaqulaL i$str ("o'y trrsiig) r rhe

-iBju m rhe iiier sida ([( 9) rbjsrs 'he jlai

-.relshof teredh on,"ndr uliiredrhida

.-imr t) lrve lr.,d ., i le tii^{!lu rtir(o(.

rhr rin shoe n, be dlsru*ed i\ qrne d ieieit

. rri thnil\?srr{flred[]rdirnni!ormf

' , edmvhr r Geere ro r , | ) 0 r6 - r7?ndF i ! :

::r.\ sl[4, oie tom IIlk streer (3 re{isfrq! ser House o0

' tssered,<hr$). As rn th.6r$ hall ol the.en

..i{ diotr. bd tr'.i oi rhe iLes rme ol

s i b h | s m p l . J ' d q b l e i n . s | [ 6 6 F . n r r '

l ifrlr lse [!Ldr, duiebi.rdsijlhl po,r6 i./Frs r2), Frn uy rrri kb rrhi eerequitebtu:dmd tumded (liss.13.16)

rnie\ d Seil l loule. $ggeiln! Ibd iher h?d

trbsaft lro.i nnre,ipodfl irruri:riois (seebelo\. ! r,r)ii l 1lr mfre nqa:ln! - bnr rhe,e

fu d!t.e]r!r} ceelelo{ p 13) :'dfud:;adi! u\e rrr.tun!r !nir rhe lerl ed '( ihe medLeyrllenod AF D! ,e iri$$rnD! +ori rlremelres.

rrt \iDp, h{e(d b! i dn\diD! rni.h rNed

slot (rI FE J) 'flr{e m d LeFr Iir eii DL.s

ir{ lnrc beei N),, Lf; Fr! !.uns.hiLi Il is

iin+ md lord rr't uo! jm b! joiiiag 'rr

r. dre sme de!.sirs, bo*eyer, ft ar teAttwelve lrasnen$ ot . ftther diterent siyle, a bx'Dkle{hoe or tun boot The mo{ compreie (fi813) is a nn\ boot, ecry romded d i[e im, qhilhorisin:ny smd ro a heishi of . 200 nn ind thusrcached nea y ro uid olt rr G oI,{np{rcundconstd.tiodBth:sm,ntda4rnainsgdalihe

sboes nd booc of ihh pe,iod - .nd rso moreiisens $e top ind.bove rhe indep. rhere sato $ilchiq doq the DFr edse, lor binding or a

ove r theopedng f lapsa ldE 'on l i Jd ' s i (esti.bnu ms ashi acro* $e insrer. .lmod ce.biilytheress a torsle 6oush rbs itselihm notsudlved and ns fom is un.enain. The boot hA

susivtug fragneft wheiner &is was a stnstestiq sound .ortinmusly rouid $e l* or serensepute srints lied tosether at the liont On as.ond, sbdler .id mu.h more iragmenbl_r boot

remins in prz.. (Fig. 11). irere re &ree ri.s of

har been delrtsately ivlsred, perhaps forde.ontve ared, is kioned d the rd{en sbt onthe outer side; this s@eis thd n wA then{ound ontinuousiy uprrds i. concenric cides

on $e exmpres :lready dennbed rhe dw-*dngs pAsed droush slob cut in the upper but

aftangenentvheftbytheypasgddYotrghloops

upvrds. -fhes $ongs nere themsehes

L\readed l@*ly 6rou$ paiF or slob, ud erhhad a spad.shzped lemin:l {hi.h vas mchorcdagainn tne bve{ slot on the jislde T}e mo$complet! booi ol il'is rypa co@s lron a deposn oIthe 13th cenrury but is bes .onsidered here in rhe$ieal dh.6sion ol the sb'le (F,s. r5). ft is ol

zo'dal insen on $e im{ side, a ropbod add a loigtmrqxh edsinc $np $hi.h w6 se{n to therdp thro.t at the b.se and lorned m overlappinga.! ro! opening. The boot hs only one veni.:lthoq on (he outer sde over inc anlde, vhere ii

rd &ree senes oI

heel, io suppon $e dia{striig, The slring itseuisoily Dafrly in ph.e, but n seems posible thd itstr se.ured by a knot tied 4ainn the inside oithe

o.iirudslyupwaldsdtrdgljth€sldshdtbdg'nre purpose of the snalL sudivins knot ii theot[er end oi the dfts$nns is uncleai.

) \ i . " t f l t ' 4 r ' , r t t ) u rn

oder exanphs ol lnis !'pe bad nore !b& onereni.?l thons. Tne moi .omprele of these hmrhree remaining one on either side and the thnd in$. middle or $e in{ep (Fis 16). Ii n an:nue.hoe .nd robibly sFivas io ih oridMr height,dthough eren this is not .ediii becadse n h6

0I tle sida tlonss hG lor. L@ps bul rhe .edtrJh..s oily Lliee it h likelr thd 6i boot rlso s^hled.onunuously with r jde dn{fing

Th€ erlr/nid r3.h cenrq (Fig l7)h is b the 6rd h? oIthe13thcentu4rbattlre

r Sd flo$e (t{o strresive deposiis.oiraininsr1 dd s redsbied sho$ respe.liveL, ,idsillligsgac (hree deposits, 3, ti, and 24 rc&$rred shoes) These ue smmadsed in Tables

dlrerei.e ii rrie ryDes topleseded.li k lmmediately obrious thd the Sel House

{d B iqscare asemblages m very sinil,rlables t 2). flic

:

b3en d$,nbred {Ir @ds, rd rhe sotes hayequiie. prond!rced s?isted shipe geneElly {ithi tuund or oul sh?ped toe Gee, ror ex,mplc,nLss 21,24) As w.s;lindly the pncti.e n ther2th .entuo, the upp*s m mostiy oronc pie.e'vcp.areund .onsddion, uth insers dded*hcrc nc.cs4 but incr m ror rle fi6r timesever:r exafpks ol shoes rode in rro mainse.riods - vrD ai{i qude^ - {ith seznx onboth sides ol the foo( (r'ts. 25, ?3). This B a typ!ol.onnnd'onloundspondrdxydYotrghofiine

be.ome ,i&spread und rhe se.ond hatf ot rhe1,1$.eniuryG3ebelos, pp 3r-3). De.ontion is

passd otrt or fashioi though shotrtd iot belor$trei rhd the concendc l,.ing .irdes on otL

may have had someotumenhl, N *ellas tundional !:he

@ by lir the no{.onmon ro.n or foorwer, :..o!iting ior over h:tfine tobl iumber of i0diliduany regi*ered 6ndsrTxbras r-2)'fbere aft !d sn shoes.ur betow0re ankre, ?nd three or i]jese nay h:ve been aspehl type oI ndoor slrpper siellar to rhd foundin one of the eady r?th.enry lrodps (F!qs.

13) The t{o vlnch aremos comprete wer. bdh irde f.D singte pncesor r€r) thin, soit rearher \ith ? 6nely nitch.d b&seam joining 'he sdLa td the upper, 3t'nos .er-ir,ny {ithour ftnds. There sas bndiis or x ror-b,id (noL strrtjling) bd no ree ot dJl fa{eningone (Ft. 13) n conve.iionaly {yred, hjsh ar ihcin*ep. {hereA tho odpr (Fis 19) G .ul rery lo$

Ig!=-

.

;;

rJ:l in thd it h.s . lois $rip iisen round th...ss pd ot rhe quafrers, lo$lblt destDed ror$sy rcpla.ement in ihe event ol selere wetr io

as in d'e 12ii c.nrury thc mo{ comon sii.rs the low boot or:nue sl'oe f,*emd wnn aia{sting vound onc. or t{j.e rtuDd t$ leg,:.imallyju( below ihe rnlle fl.bles 1-2; Fts.10 23). lrpre$'oc md the sue olthe sloG sho{

roro r 5 nnaro$ T[e 13$.enIu4 eianples:.ndtonsemu.hhuherur 6e h3th,ithe[ 12r]!

:Jdtrded at th. toe, but again then ?pperan.e

:he imrft$jor $ar rlris was a style lavored

:ii. tun booG and side li.ed shoes (descabed?low) :Inoi al rem Io h?!e been {om by nc..

ad..n.:nl'sSnnniMslldinsen*inebaf

di,,!!eD.e frdo ertei erdpres js lne absen.e of

e olen?pping firp optnjns (4 Figs 5, 3) ln

but mat h.ve retuined oped at the top. This

da fp j csddcd inF igeiii|e|yhthelzih.enfu4'ilmerJdeveihA

'}ose id Figs, 21-23ftpb.nds and other reinrorcefterlple.es de not

.hird\ shft illu*Eted (Fig. 23), rhe presen.e or a

The tull boot ldamd wiil' a drtrsstrids soundmt tines roudd rhe les h tr lurher *yle Fhlchcodinuedinuse inio 6e edly r3th.enhry. Theelab.nte tFe, in rhi.h the $tug pNsed Lbroush

(.1 Fiss. 15 1O, n

4asp|4olt}esinplereren,The|lNtledbool (Ft 24) h very si'iil:. ro ore found li theedlier srolps (Ft t3) - eeei to the extent ol

dnrub$$d2 6marcs l! h,lso refr(kableIor the iumbn ,n,i compbrny ol lhe iisens onthe nner side, a ledure +ded {iih one oI theanue shoes desnbed bero{ (Fu. 27) and

of suff.ienr sDe rd quariiy d ds be Gee

ft those laed d $e side. This style oI lasten-

Asenblases od, .o eftelt, has beer found o'nyspoddi.all! iD litr ones belor enelqi.s as the

lsu cc.tury Geebelo{, o. 43).There m slx eMnples ii all, of

vlnch LLyee afe shoes cui belos the anl]e dd rvoee,nue{boes (T.bles I 2). All saeh !o h.!ebeen h.ed on the mer sde. Anois the shoes,ue .v0 *hi.h m mo* complere de ahon iden-licar in rom, beins qune high d rhe innep bui verrlo{ at L\e heeli bo$ roy orytrxy hale had rop.buds(./.Fiss.27&e0) thoush irese io loilerstrruive - rnd ftinforcnenrpie.o oyer the laceboles on the mde. om €t 25) h?s elabordeopen{ork de.orarioi b:*d on tun*e, cnc'rtd,rectag d dd cfrdlom moliis. ed n or ivo-

inbd but . smzll infni whi.h loned rre vanp onlie hrer side ed .mied oia ser of lace.holes, isiow mising rhe o$er shoe (Ft. 26) is mdeentnely in one piece, aid on the yrmp ihrod h ,rough k,,ire .dt wilh I pan ot holes on erher side,vhich po$iblr was made by the vee.r to relieve

one ol thr r le-+oas

tbre spmt inseis (Fi! ,t) o.e L:4e p'e.e

..ideds ii to tu h.el4d.onhiis jtr{ tr si"sl.l:.e roh, rd a d'ird (.'isrd n.p pe ips m,ory $e ep dse 1o iorn a lap ope@ !m]I rothGe setr on some rzdi.e u4:hos (d Fis.t) ln this sse (he lr.e irselr ramiix in postjon. ItrA knot.d tuhind otre d rhe Lonon hoLes. $6dmadcd upwds od pres mrbLr, eas knod.d d

held the shoa v.ry tidd! on the ldi Th. sc.ond.omdete aDhe shre n ndi.:ny didered i" mn

mh joined by jdeDli., sds n the $me posilonoi bod, sidc ol the loot o.jg 231 There {as itopbdd, a he.l stilieier ?Dd . rtinrorcmcnLp'eceowibel,.ehoks,shichdehlgeddMgft''1he hoLes de ueven n number (lblec on onesde, iou oi the o$d) rd scn io have been rhEt palily de.ofttive, ror inpresions shos 6ddiey h,ve b.en puled od or rh.pe b! a snrll romd|.&aL\eriheaboadthmg-pfubablyasDg|e]..elkeadedupwdsinthemneri||lstdedin

The lere renaniig sho.s n Lhs soup de aLL ortypes disdsed ekevhere rd meni odt bnei

onglmlly l:r.ned *irb a buckle. bd h seneDl

t;3,; ;

;i

;; ;

:ppeu?n.e ?ni unuri{D I n ..nrhbl!n.il,rto r.ommonedy l5th.enlury trle (./,ioi esnpla Fis 63) z alnion.enajnly shourd

nriejhoes $nh a rossle fanems. , iobllr..{nrLe vhi.h reff k)hiFoniMrd iltrm.l13$ .cntury ad beume in reNi.slt hshioi.ble,i ns s.ond h3lr Tbe nion .omplete oI rhese

d[koftrhe{y|4!ldPgivmedf€lFriodrpinNu,thedilNnaisr:{eiiis totl'oscolrh.late medrrl. croups kofr r.f *es, s{:rLane (10 regin.Fd shoes; 'f^ble 3). Rlliosssr.16 shoct Trig Lane (rTshoen rnd,-udgre (26

:bocs: Table'1) ilrnrare rrrese derdf 0med5

nyb n sertr kr, rorilimrle Ft :I) rh! rrll boot ..iiinfd to b.T!du.ed, bur it seems thd $e l.v b.or or bnrkl. shoe $brb{rsooooulreelier. ne.dl y

.lioeor ![oe. Thn lad E .ot immedirtelr obriots

r shouLd be rtn€dLered rln E a'lJr:ho.siuntd in the former & xLhcr iLL or llie lo{rggLe ranened type uia(ed jn Fjts :l-3rb.reas rhose in the lrrq tre miinry ol lhe hlfr4vsrins rype dennb.d abor€ (pp. 17 13 &

rrrE {s me mijor m dion in nmuradorrs ecbnique h thee^rua., $cuseol?$out.ordsathedDsinside

: r{ ed3e ,o reiiorce ole ig nros add oihftr.as ol pdeitial{c,knes (seetuther, pp 22,n,. ,\hon \liihod e\.eption shles ol lk;ds

;nh i irn scam on the iider rde. but t aooeirs:id no* ilEs {m murh sreds unifo.mjr! ir

:trdruhr, by iie avodmce of iresrhny sbapedr+ns d Ihe sjdes :.d iniep 3nd ibar u.

:.nurt This .oin.ided anrL a srat.r nse oi

.L15 f the l2rhrd edy 13th redqn.: rndn

---4 L<=-- ..-'

m:!b.flBiihcsuppriesofiileno.krotheLondonnErkd were ieorsdsed .onsidenbly d thn iime

& Tibles 3 nnd a sho'v fasl'ionsind'elate13$ind.a y l4th.edones sere doniided by il'erosgle hnenjng (Fts ,9 3r) Ii is rena*rblethd this $a &e ody Iype or tuneniu definirelt

33 ie&neied shoes. r'd the rgures ror Bilinss3{e re broadLr.oF!n?[le (9 slioes *irl' lo]qrlcsind rEt 4 .ciaiDl! Ii{ened in.iotha 'va}, .{t

Tft Lue $ere is aseakr mge or hdedis. but roggtas $inaccout ror vel .!er hril rhe ttpes e.orded.Ther {ae trsd oi booh ud sboes rude in ?vmeiy ol $yles. The simple*, hv.ri.bty a shoeor mue+hoe .ut klow or oi the line oiih3 anlle.hG a Dan oi identi€l raps, e(h *ih a 'buroi.hole' foi hne.ing to a silsle los1e in $e cefte

The &st inu*nied exampte(Fu. 29) is nde anurely in one pie.e - 6oudrery oft€n (r'. ril. 31 and F1g. 36 nom asubsequeii sioupl one of the fl,ps w6 made as asep,nre iised - md ihere n a Lois seni.ncuhrion&e {hi.h nG nght acro$ rhe vamp $rod ioprovide ne$ iiy over ihe inieD *hite d $esme hme covems be op€i rcm b€hiM rhefl?ps. The rroii ot rhe shoe is atmo{ .onpletetylod, ed onshany dere Ms a topbad sriiched toalllne uppnetues exceor irle toigle rreroggte,dso iov brsry. MUtd h,ve been tomed lion areather k.e {hose end *x tuled back on itse[p66ed though a slr rd pulled righr; dre oderend rA then thrsd-ad lnrolsh ihe p.rroraiioi inthe vamp rhroat dd ifuhed down otr rhe

on ai ha{ ode sh@ ol this iype ine lahp hAbeen llashed rh{ugh viih a knife. -fhe

toe oi iheillu*frtd exrmple hA b.etr sli.ed o( and r]]esl6hes, {hi.h hks $e lom oI etongatedlozeqes, seem onsbd] ro have been rmsedrousHy D t{o brds doss the foot (Fia. 30).This {A prob:bry done toi decontive or pra.ti.dpurposes, ro (ede r tum of opa sidd, but itmighr posib! be .ompmd $iih &e proce$ orntuar deh.ement {hereby shoes are phed as agdod.lu.k offerins in the .hinney or dtic oI a nc{bundiq. rn her discssidn of . simitarlr-stAbed

Itom rhe ^usiin Fna(,l-ci.end, clare Allln (Menor & Fede 193t,

l55i lolosiis svm) h.s tE.ed this pn.ti.ewerr dGned n edry noden times b4! into therTrh ceDbry bd io! deinirety inb $e medieEl

aj'ue sho6 nsi4 sltndy Nsher over the:.ue

(Fiss. 32-3). They reE very simih in stie;nd.onshdiod to the shoes xlftad! desnbed, e\..ept trrar on the im.r side Fs m insen whichdmedasjnsle bftoiliole and ei$er one or rHoiosres pasins $rorgh sloh ad sdched doMoi the m'de. To dose rhe sho., ihe ltaps *ere6rn ssred iidependen y to die rode on ihe

ts,r be tush{ Fns of dre i\hD (Fii 32r Insome .a*s $e etues ot &e laos yeE sre.s1h.med w'u. .od; nomly uis ian aton! the iisidesd(e and {m h3ld in pla.e bv a se.otrd. 6nerdread stjrched doss ir kee ftniner p 5r ddFie 31r, bd oi one of,he 'nu.hred e$mDles|Fls.IJJ nqemi lhd th€.ordnalr !x shhhcilbroqh &e redher, b{ause tnere n ? rov orshod bui brdad $irh impresiois tumiq in $e

-

.i.dy up rhe mer sider on ihe.der:'dc $tr rr.spodins sct of sloted uss {l'i.h 'v.re

.:{rudolerthctogg|esdihe|roiLolll joboot'. :. mo{ .ohpleie eimple ol ttus rtDe (Ft 3,1)

.\r.ndLngtoihe tuLLheisl'rarih. &ont. lt ropeds, I'ychdnotonee,bulvhereih.yn'eetdthe

rlp $c sides {ere ed3ed {ith Lirq naps. one

..n iLbeit id much Les exaggeuted tishioi: : boot fom,D erkr dcpcr (Fig. l3J ?n1l mal

'.,. b.en rtnnded to bods oI L\s genecl rom

r?ni slarciis, not kan beause iL +ems to:'. been iFlosible ro adjun the Lensth oi rhe

. {lehgslo6ltheitrd'!'du,lroot.lnmoncAas.:.k ir susiye! c! bs n !o big thd the flxrsj d h | E d c e d t i g h i l y o t r t h e i n * { m d

:uns of fas@nirg shoes ihe roggle hffi r-: srr iirelmjtkd I'isto4, d lca* in London' ,: i6r ?ppem on a hre sdotr :nue shoe in $e

::.le?l ukun coLLe,lidi (PritclHd lodh_iis ,f lkccr*or 1982, Fig 72No.62710r

an emmple rom Inero su.din?!i?n York) Here

arlea{200ra*,'*or.o*lderblesisiijidi.e' $e derelopmenr rl medje{l sho. hshion

shoe eros the iniep by meam 0l tso oovable

l'4eidrtrn$iredtor,*e#g $i{ia*$.i^g.rNilh lrces d tie side. Tossk hnened shoes indi*Lejhoes appear to hare beer mrde in a cnge

drndren T[e sm:le* ii irF co]recrioi (Fis. 31) E

ror$e and bpbind ?n insen {hj.h.anled therco0d bdtonhole is also mj$ing from the liner

clild s ste 3 The orher 6!ee !,F!ler solcs?10 ?nd ?46 mm (noden

a

i.

'*:'l_it_llroD Tac La. (6 r.rqi*c'.d shmt. the se.ond rlron Dorsra (9 regsteied shoes) ad ue Lbnd rtruD cu{oF House (1r.$l.rod sr'o.s)

Th.,B:liJds.is!!. Asenl]L4eisolespe.h|neier, Le-ur il sbo$ i tudh* n?ce inthedelerq,Fed oi rhe reDdr fiFr d ni.prbed in

Flinsio.bersei.ontheoneh d,belordie

,Dd, on $e od,er rtrLLbooc asi.g to ieftr mid.:rriershi $hi.r, a:(rud for i ri(h Gee Table t.Lor boos rhindi.s jun aboye the :nuc, so

!oLe! $rr nom r30 r!245nn io leu1h. md ihe fou.omprere boor

lni! beisht {orLd b! $ibbre roflro* and oddoor. fupa t i d r ,wh ! re ] s l l * s ] iAn i l b t l tmue

:iJ erl! 13rh enrurl rrede.erdA Neurt rr lbe rhoes we f:*ened

id. Eoors *irh loggle lanemss ol ihe type

|i!e been glrn no loiger, lrcept b! yer:/ sn'$tdren (.r: Fis. 33i, r'd d€sinlsr rqD 10haF dieppe red codDLe,etr

Th6e ;Iern.es itum rhe B?tnads Cmtle

i:. :M .oihdin 10 those mrde in rhe edt:lthtedu.y (./ Fts.20-23) b ir seems rhat

.,d urrDi,se,bre. The oiry akh.rrroe ot rhG

:ble l) ue ol similr drm.nsioN. The Ludgda

lrr booh.r xike{hoes Nnh dh€inns lrs:rg5: n possible tht rhese {ere yeq old

rlcd irLes laned srjdnL) rrom one !1aa rord, id n.o.d.n.e $i.h $e dem?nds ?od

':r/jrs ollhe ( inhdi(mG.

fte mid l.lrh cenrury (Fig 35)_:: p$oJ i5 Fony rtpresenred b! 6nds fiom

:roo 'rhere is i0rr one rarse grotrp llom: .i D. 5 cmfle , but iorlundel! ii n .x.epron-; \et r.s.acd t4l

-rD' rldll siD.e rhe! tome ftum three qdo. r:lisqDntdsiiesunbeeipeded to orovida

bei{eetr toggk.fsrening lor shoes and sidelacing for bmG tu ioi so prt.Ge: lmni borhcusom H.'sc ud Dowaate, lor ex?Dpre, bcrede lragnenury renrins 'i sidc laced shoes A

at .ll tliee sites, as d'B?t!rds C?sde. tlE bAi. Jodns rc sinnld

rond neih.dofcoi*ndion vth.mdseanoi rhc imer side ad Irom rhe soles i! s chd ihdthe oval roe shapc rehned io lashion.lier ih.bner vope ol a nor. poi.ted siyLe d the end orthe 13th .enluci some ol the tossle raseredshoes. in odnuLd,roMded ioes but quite pronou.ed \r:idJ d llre

Table 5 sho$s Lrrat, d BaYruds CGde dlea$. tr.d! rlliltr togsleJAcned shoes re ol$e lwe sith r siigL. togg|e ni lha in(ep .,singl; '[ftonbo]e' oi &e [rp d erh side (hefnrce|abolatcy*sjoi'wL$addnion.|ioggleSonone oI the laps had avidlndt pssad Mion.ofplelelt od ol lashion br thn dde. The sl'oes

an.a to ihoseofihe lare l3(h.eiiury, but one dihe inuinred evnples lFis 3ri) G mmu:l n thd

abole tbe oder {irb. saa at the heel A ropbandH i , lmg $e rPFr ed* \ rd q? ;nde m ' " .

d iu lea (he f o lded do lbe to s i \ € i r oobedse wheretr the {ront sedion is or sotrl sindesi.knEs leather {l'i.h olfered. mu.h rougheranish, irdisriisishrble rrom &e mderial !l rheulDcrifll Ttu. slro? \^ rppFn rJ m!!hu' dbr Losna ror: ruuph.ewr iir hBl to '

mrjor grotrps oI incisions krt made n rhe um!,

i..ome badry slo en or d.fomed cee belov.

A siFi6..nt deklopmert in the dsign orr ! ! ! l e f an . i . J \ 4c ; s ;ho \nbJ t ro tu n lesb; Dowr*e rnd i{o hom E!/'r d' cstLe1he fo* .omDlere ol thce is ilLtrstded (Fu.37) odL) inc mer side n lhollr 0cseflcd, but

neds on borh sides ol the sboe {cre veo smlLdTh€ im{ side ihell .onhins n iiseted sedioi'md. up of three sran pie.es ol harhcr, one oI{1tr.h hs ? 'bnonhole , .d and slthed ioledrer in such ? n(y rhd the krge* p€ct [espitlr bebId the other tvo (Fig. 37; ./, Fig s5)The purpose or thjs Ns to provide a vdenrghtsei hehind , novable buto"ole'fla!. ed ileiabLd the Jlap ihelJ ro be t.nsleiied lrom thetop edse or the shoe to a position loser do*n iheside This in ttrm {ouLd probably have proyLded ,mu.n dshrer and nore .onronable 61. snce !'eflaps Nould have acted 6 a continuous b.nd,excndins lrod rhc mh ol de loot md '3h1

lhiLd lri.*mr$*r09ni'dd'esole equ,ulenr h the iodar chird s i* 2 lalLo{Lng lorshiik?se rr r0 pft.cn0. ?nd s i r0$ boot thd

(

gsh@\ Itun Lrn10, sits ||aa utu

ryles iornally lon by adulh (FE. 33) ln.on

dn{{nng ankLe shoe, hanns r horizonkl sean!i de innep and : tianslar in*d ier &e bseo dr. inn{ side Gl FiF. 2r & 23l but it {*nnlded by rhree logsLes The bu&iholeJ rcor diredlv in the llao on &e outer !de, rather$an beiig on sepdde uss and the edge or iherrao wd reiiJored either iith d appled band or,more orobabLy. {ith plain dit.bins.

rhe nde hled booE m all ol sinihr relaave

Ilre! aie roqNy A klLr thel ft lons, ind plobabLv re.ched about a third or the dnhn.e .. thekn;e (Fiss. 39 .40). The upper were invan?b! ortrrap round rype (./ Fig 97), and on the 'nner

r.fl i]]esoletothebodompanolh.e holes this*aE, shi.b held the vhole boot in sh.pe, fldJ$x s h,!e beei: pdeid:lpoini or weaki$5,rd serer u i,s! !r orkn be +ei h€re lFia539 ,10) The onLy rddrtionalpje.e {A mrdt aloig recbnsh insen $hnb exteidad the tull

33'39,40Erly]ddld{eitrq

heiqhr from the in$epi the honzonbl *am whichloinid it to the vamp *ould h,vs pmvided lenbllity d m abnpt chanse or ansle, snce mostb.os ol $k ryp. sem b have litted the loot quEdoselv and $e staighr vedM! se,n nav tuvegilganther.igftrappeamnceo!e!ttresMesDe.ialy sin.e tle bmi {s gene4lly a ltdeklier d $e liont th.i d $e brk. 0n ved l2rsehoos a dip wA olten used to mse &e tdp ed8e,ju* tr on b.o6 ol the lzth ard l3in cenrunes (./Fig. 131, and oi one ekmple thcre s r ennre$Er sedion shi.b en.nded the qu.nere udheishtened the boot by A nrh as 30 mn (Fis40).T opbadsseenbhavebeenprovidedns.'?bh, md lhe suniving ex.nplas re Lrir stips 0,leather lolded double over the edge. Tl]e lace'holes rcre Einlorced urh ledher fa.iigs on &einside (.1 Fig e7), bur rhe.e sere no eisneielei tlnrqh the holes leached dno* !o ih!rund; resretably, the la.es dcmselves havenot remained ii place on ay of $e b..h in rhe

Th. 'Bayn.rds c*tle

0, ,Jr ro:. r srs.( r

d;de]!iih rrr B mrds ciiL! ririds1: {n b. r.i ir.d Tirr ri 8,r\n.ds

.'dtiL rkr: drrre:h!!: rNUn niun riEr

rrt.e rnNtl! bnaNd xturr rre iin.r ! rlr.r

5:r 1) bft Jtirns rP

;,,i,i l: ' i l, L.l ' .,". l r

; .j

't:].I" ,"',. ',illl,, '*

'

. r , n f v m r D r n r r r c d L ! l r : l i g s ; f

] . n n r ! 1 . | T i L l ! ! 5 m d l l ]

' lr drt.D en,,rt,:r,.d trdd, ofi.r Lon(oi!lF\8i,i,wd, rtrtre s.Le,,\ r,rnN. ri,h ir

rniFr ri bDb o! r ' l iLe rxt' D N U Dr1,. d(!n.i\e Dr deorll,!F{nrhl?scl: aq,r,l. !J{LLLru'|trrrrvrlt nd drr vrflleNotrhe. r!!h,'r b*irp:fti

: i l,. Lonion !n)u|x tr

:i rl[ iorth fl thr 'Dr!n,,nr Ci{le \itr

nL,nLe:. rorLd h:f. been ?r(trdeJ qrLr L! (h.

26) N nrld b'.rd

, 0 . n . , . r ' \ , e d : r u l r r h r r s l r g h r L t

LeJtl)!th! haso l,rl.rrlr iod rhent.ntabur t d r i r n . , n ( 4 n i r t h r b e f . r n s D r s r l p 6

Ioot L!iqrl,s ..i lenei h 1r,et ncdcn srrt !2

ide ri.ed bob {d rronr li.rd :hr* o' aMe

lftl d,. LDsen (Trb ! sr)

]n{.iur.ajd LLL[tdifis (see bllN pp ll; ')

.hLLd.ar: shos hll(ur oronofic.d o.d: (.1F,!, 3l ,. n ,ough. h Di(l'r bee$eded, tb.

0f0nl,ltl

A( l

FrontLecel

F.ontLatch

i

;

;

i

;

i;

1 l

;

. r l i 'Tibe 3t oc.sioia|| lhe Douih. L,i

Fronl-Laced

,idtrrruuem JDdMs $rhA,+d;bisrb

t3

t-

] ,

l,l.,| '.

l,

Side.taced

Front -Latchel

EuckleLatche

side -Lalchot

Toggle

-,

rioiai ,{,p.uoud Fdhqr r, he ?b?idoned ror

ad qudm sm sprdc mic joii.d bI !m-

one prte. md thd n for ? very sni,n chird (!iq.53) AnkLe shoes and booc, horerer, c.niiued

rdioi {* the idditioi ol r tonee sin rtothd

']j|dt. rhs \us Nurry ${, rLoil jd{ me eds(., Fig 93),,,dd uourd (r oL' hive m?de rtreu00er nore $hrrroot bur $ourd h?!e prereDrdthe la.e IFm .hafing on tlre Lnnep. As d :llp.riods, dcmntion n a!. ntrre n t!{ meerrnple or opetr{ork demmiod - rb. quinen ofa Lov.li ditu GlE ricro{, F 30-r ind Fig115.) - L{ Irofr BirDdds Ch e there m

(FLgs s0 slr belowso * io prored shoes LLr! rhey thd \Dden

senen oseceeberor!. pp 91 6)

ShN: t d ?ttu":

('fabGs 6 7) .id lere yery sinllr in {y!ng{Figs.12 17: i9,5r).',rhet were inydrbrr ol

exFpr ror one oI $. Larchct rypcs (the side.

alegadt .urre belo$ lhe rdkle o. rhe outer rdehdlefihonbnt on the intr{. Fo'&nyenieile

&nnndio.rl deuis ,so th.y {de vntu:lltiden..:l ihe! hzd no topband or heel.rtlnforce.

Y inos Iu6 |he t r l s iDdder l . j ' . kd$eledher from skt.hing md chdng d the weake$poinc kt Fis. 10? l0'1). As TabLe 9 sho{s.

order d'irdren ard aduh. nnd b,udse rroo rhe

ud tu meirremeil. it saefrs rhI lMkhd sboes

-

Lr.liershoes ilirLir4eridulrs?$ Fron rhf il

L r abre 3r) xnd tlj. jid5r e\rmDles oi deonrioiF;$ 50 5l) }e r5o aso.iardlrlit sbo.! ot

The adulr b!.kted sh.os \+i.h r. rtLun(rd

tsd|'l[t.ruLILdki6oftinPdilo^{hiimr.Ld D pt?ce by tuldjng or.r ilr tedrr{ $np .i

ifh.b pAser oy{ rh. iinqr ir a s.rrr. i^!.roi. srrc (Flg.12) tn oiLf: n.d!\j r{ xin<

Lrr orher. hs bEen dr do*i lerh:os N l

b?reLy.ore( the ro.r i] Frgs ,t9 r) one or

r onrt u sdon lrulanc_ (Fr! la) th. bjturded

ir d' rhe n desoondrrq Fir ot troL.s tr ,hide D oa!( is 0a siste rhi.kiesr but

riedh.r :dtrh rmr laidPr shG (r'is 16J n dt

rre,n..uFDc 'riou n. umJj I ihuesirirr md r ioin ihe yrnp ind qkr.n oi rhr

r fL , d.d dorrk lnLr ktrn ro!rLh.. rr dr!r!e- Th€ eiLl i

juFlsiosthmugh the hoLe iD iljg n'nf oJ;

the i]lnnkd sd. h[h.l +oer eDml$ise+i hsli f:s|ion *so.i,kd }nh $s nr[ iFj^rs n) Al]redr {d!loi {rcs dr r;s m;d

!r Tric Lrrlhd snp nrlt\m mari:Ll! m:d.rFnrery. rnd br:u\e ol tlje leigrh or rhe shoe

.:ie (r.rs. c9)r,is oneotrhe o0Fr.oolLrin.a Ln

.hed !ir r reD?n: lllssen\r!! d h?!ebeen

.on[.son 'rth d]e.y{?llsn. olr|t +re The

one (F f.:0)is slighdr dnlFddrtre qm'lfls rd

:rdrhee.dorrre lu xine hs bc$.uloti Both

rnd zrc.( \h{c tu sf(r! hr rrc.n smp.d

lie,4reds re lrry difiird or {Fig 50J ir

dher rFLg n) i: dnided LJ jurdr'trnd\nba*aes or dirl iedrsu.{ pine 5 retieEd oilr bf

r i . r yd the lmd p rov i i i ng r f imer6 to f { r l r e

Mr r.rlhe hr! h iefrrii li\ed.i..e sid!.rlheyrmpDpe0inFmd ro be rhrtaded rhroqh rrores n

hdE b!5 pr.!rd.,r (d bero" ,id F,s 3n bd;

the ri.e ras I sinqrc nrroN *np ot Gith.r

rd!d, : toque \€: seNn edge to edse:lois d'e

en oped rhe \hoe ot th! lidedde ro the

upper. Thn rc.ounb lo. rhe nth{ nnusurl

sh?pl.solthe quii{s h thl5 ase belo{ bo$

torhose\om bidoeleihxdd adulc.,hhors!

ei,ggnde d poulaincJ l.t Table sb). Or re 19..Dphleso|es'vl'nr|'eadfilfooile.!ihcanbeeniFded n hs dai t70 nn (miomlr equn!

belongtobeLowihe{nkleshoes,6to,ikle dioes:M ? to inddeniinde iyFs Eur 6 is eideir

diieied 10 the ere'r t|a alnos i"varobh lney\ere lanened bt l,.ios d rr'e ltu 'flieie is,

thd /, dto,dM it, u00 har

single rront lithet shoe (Fi!. 47) {hi.h apperreio h:ve been repaned d thc qudreG arrer it hrdbeen {om bt r.brrd {ho wA plsed.hed mdpbose ioot ptrshed n abnomdl! outrurds Gee

107-3) - and: sqle shoetu$ened*ithabu.kle (Fig. 11). Thebuckie, nownostl] ro$, h or re.d aloy rarher rra noi, bur in

!(e 0f rhe adrft lersiotrs. The nonrta.ed shfts

shoes discused above (.1 Figs. 5?-,1), althotrs[none or lne suflrv;s e'imples seem ro hava badloi$es. one ol those ituinred (Fig 53) hhL'iue Ln lrre Eesent cofe.bon n $ar ir is of on.pie.e.on{rudiotr. The La.e, which G knoned aterh end, pases froh ibole rhrcush rhe hotes onr]le side wr,efe it h L*ened, not hom betow as

:E

rhe ie.oid illu$rtrred ex,i'ph lFig. i,ll hA a titryDouhine {uffed Niih hi;

hi thn in*a..e the li.e is or the bild.ted

[.ds \rlrli re : sm:lkr d ud' L.s dnlindile 0e1 d lcAl oI ie Balmds cArlr'

verysmallnmb*s (TibLe6)?0daredernrred jndftnbebr{p. 41),sin.etbeyanh.ipde?Lshion

0r ibe other t{o o,inmdhods or ri+eiiis sde La.iig appean io h:!ebes negii.rr! rls .otrtrioi ('f,bles 6 l) ridibe exrmples ol rhi: d& ue 50 slmllir ln cofr

htd tiiB ei.ept i.sof:. d they may bzre

rlrd frcnth. ru *ens t.st to hale deveLoped is:. nponani method ror l6tnios rkle+hoes:M A wiib h.nt laced shoes, a modifiution oi rbeli that prii.ipla {A :dopied.'fhe illu*rtd ,ikLeilioe (Fis. 5s) rd rhc lo\rbool (Fig 53) shde i slmllrr one rece \*aDsiound'con$ndion, \!irh r dglrd mrin seio on

the h.e hohs 0i the boor ths €i Le sean odLl

rainfoftmenb oadnLLy suflilt in ph.e kl !jg.

rbe sr,oe had beei ̂ sembL?d bul rhe orhq nmu.b 'nore s$*addr ,id n :D inreFiLDdt oithe

biturcded laichet rype hgs \r bl.h remrin ii kd 0.tl'e md side: rhe bq!!, $hj.h ro\e i0lhe fun[e4ht orllre 5hoe, {s seM edee ro edge:]o.srhis ide ilyi (Flg. 55). The fas?ms :nrye

erenry soard. Tr,. s.:Id,jrd's nkh.shoe (Ft.56) ad rhe .hLLd r [oor (Ft 57)rcrrmo$idetr

'r-'.;1

: h e € & J } I s l h G n h 4 ! T s ' 5 0 |,m hEd iks bom the tmdoi qderemrErcig rc h€ 0r blr or L\e Lrh csr6 andlerc rcbd r bre€ dlFsnr 'Ihe

odrdon ot rhe

sm. ur bqe re r& rels mnprete ,hF. ihar

sefliq dr m,ny r.re at,e:d) r pi{slnoughrct ap,'endJ deltqde]J atuJ whe' 'n.;iw,) uie d dre srouF ,om (vr Lde r5Bm'y eekr hj th. ode^ and ̂ bfn ^.sds€d rp:Ekh I' r lts br rr i,\e snrl*t

,€rr hae udd md roar,ry oi,ehDnt.-.

s..s be obq, LomTrBLim rsg trs*e*d

lhse ' ti lt le perc€pdh djqsa n.oop.\ lor b€L$c€i rhe err,er ot rh€ ssd ldeqtui pftcded tr Gs

"bde @.2B %) Tie

5 9 F } l J | 5 d e n d ^ b e t d d a f u ' s i & s o m

Fer rrt hd bdbn id. qai&d,r dE+d o q | [ M E + N ! s ' o r i @ | l y n [ d i r e r 9 h .

{ilh quite ex,sgeEtod pnulams I lo\r cu shoesou.'unb( akr. shols .Dd h(ns; a^d hrrheband bckles re lhe oilr linenins types derDit.Ly

a rarce ankre sboe $itr, , b:sgr" no$ $unedpouraii. (Fq. 60) rr has m hpbiDd or heet-

'tr*op tu di ode side $ thr dher 'frrG lotrr ol

$as {onj as: s|jp otr ,||'e nd,] fit;gs' one ofron, rbe orher .r r.dr a)o!, Nhi.h rc nleredttuougl' the rerher, re b?dtr .orcded brt fenro hlve beei omimenld

Dunq &e iseny or dMl Ien rh ahp*d

deporiloi or lhe hEr Ss?n Lde rnd '1 .ie hne

every kiid ,rhough mo$ {uf6'B w?s some-

rjmes sin nsed r, gie ? mok eyen pn,ii e ,nd i o

md SNm LrDe brk ed orlarhe!finenql nres

6 0 E { L y s 6 e d u c d | e $ e l d e

'Bricl

FronLac(

Sidelacl

FronLatc

Sid€L!tc

; ;'

B{clLrtc

IotXno,

;

::,- i.ed in pd bv a neN rlpe or:ll r.dher paren.inrh.rEsugg.(cdkl bdo*. p. 101 x Figs.:r3 10) {{e mr ron A ora^boes bui sifrpLf

I nirce js m?de lor the rzrge numb.r of uncff

oie, the side ]]ced.:lkls srrr.rLoi (h({s re!.hiDs ?bonr i $nd ot

,onoo hshion) {m a nrk {hih hd a lons

an.esty' :]bei| ii a les sbD{j,trdised |0F rDd{iL\ slighr dileieoces ir con*rudio.. Tbe other.i]]e fron!qHlns buckled ankre shoe or ro{ boo(.$s an eniirel! neq slleshouLd be resd.d A a repLa.eDEd lor dE ftonr

*hi.h n sh&d nii! Iedures ol deslsn iid cod

Bur it {m the re.bni.aL deleropmenb oi ihe

Front -Laced

Side'Laced

Fronl -Latchet

SideLatche

l''l''] '.

l'.l'.l',l'.

EuckleLatchet

llot

(rrher so rhar the quae^ {ere hide n tro

the nroden seNe - ,id joined {ith a rrlcalfanat rhc r,eeL(F35 67 ind 107) Thjs:dded

impona.. of tlf heer-{ilietr{, F?kiis ( ?n ntesnl .onsh.tionaLeremeni, ind mti.rpdcs 'I. (Dhisiiftted .onnndion or ]?th cenu!- and hr{ shoes rt rnobc.abl. rhd vheD &mpred nth 13rh aid

rr f.*u eady lsrh.,!duw upen have be.n .ut up Ior subsequenrreuse (..10 p.r.ent,.otriprld {ilh 20-45 per.entinedieisroupsr.l, beroN, Table 16). z.d

mqor?dvancesDsoremudacrui!,rrhoushihe

ge*s rhat tr'e d'r'ses Nare hriq DLa.e d jus

beiq deposiied. oae dv?n.e. *eoptifi.d b!od}5ollbe359legl*{edsho.sfron'T4l-neand.one from S*an Lane,

"F trra trddir,.i Dt a

sepmte nsob to ttu mrn,r run sboe sore Thei6oLelarsnin lidewN,idsrodmuih:EaddedmNideiblyblhe.omlonolrheshoe Th.orlF.adlaice {s the introduction 0I &e tlrn Nelrmelhod ot co.*nchoD (for ru[.r dr$us].D, see

74) ThG invoLved the

ove^aiLed the edse ol the shoe ad could b. swd

sedry rbe durabrrity or ire shore shoe aid irs

iun {ch r[oes ,nonl rhe jndividu?\ relrsered[nds :] iorsh*lrialrnpsortum weLi t,rJersiry ru..snned b! the doubte row ot nilch.bores. Nere ro.a(ed in the bulk ndani $.henround sepmt.lr'. $e iower sohs m?r be di6.uuro drsrjnpish fton ren,nnde ,dumps it drey aretuiie L s tjt.hed and Itom the boton conp..eisor murllr?yer pattens Gee below, ras r3q-10Jjl

Deconiion is spme oi London shoes of rhs

le.rfe ,D{i merLt*o* ot $e dna ([ig ]tridToo Liure or rhe upp..sunrves ror.eruin re.onshd'on, bur it see4s r ery rh il {n ? lor .ursr,o. wi j btr kLe or L{.ber tajeoine Disurllerou.hes eere somehoes added ro x shor It

elrends np{ads of.r lne in{ep (Fis 61). nnorh{ !?np has b! roys of tonBirudLmt iuiml

ms'ng be enp ro ftare z :lrghdy *epped,rarher lrn nNided. pror'te (Fig 6e ResrerhbLrliltle orlhG shoe suFres. but rlieie de kodsor i (np pAlng llrough i pe.fonrion d ibeqmo ihnd : l | ' i s Jggen \ i | r d i ' hadab$ le

I so ir NouLd be rhe .Dr!.oiillr lo$ndiis

-J

!..n $orn bul rtrfar) ii th! fint hrLJ ot dr lsrtr.amy (T.Lres r0-rr). r rhen odr by v4y

.o rr .hirdren t,t lrbk rr

Lupres dr$us.d abov. (!. 36 rflr F,s. 56).\u.h oo,t popuh, , :id d,{enD8 sisni[mndr o'ny

lrltL aikLe.+oe rTibl* l0 11) r\! T,i|e 12

This srsgers rh{ il

iune.brldren pfthaps be-se orits esea.allr

sofaud,.s. si4te !te.eri hader ws suriLiedr (Fig 63), but moie olien. ni,ll ins.d vrs requned b nise the inner sideL (s lun heuht (Figs 6.1 5) Therc s6 rqcncr:Iy

topband. The tonsestudy strivile, ld rrr6e rhd do (.1 Fig n{) seento hale been rit.hed io one side ody or thc m)pq*D;s; on the other lde {s probablr a renIotement cord Th. bu.klc, whid, vas li{ed ti xledher tho.s, dd iis .oirespotrdrt nnp p6seddnoush sLo6 di lir,er sjde d rhe r.mp openjngaid $ee se.urtd nsde Gee tunbcr, p. ?5) InrheLile l4rh.e ury bu.kres had mady an beei ofrmed mn bd m$ rhcy *ort :rm.sl ts,r ,fLead ad noie otuneiut. sone {ere de.ontedwi$ baading r rhe etue. rnd spedrle,bu.ktestude thetr 6rn ?pperece G.. bcro{, pp. 7s 6nrFt L r 0). rvhertas the chrrtuen s sdne shoes*ld0mhzdmorcL\aasngl.bu.kle'dje:dtrlilt6ion IA oIt.n prorided wn|': pair (Fig (joi\n unusuar i.arur. oa iltr R'led eximDle rsrhd r dd nd liarr a ddrn'l1di3!e, bur inierd, to

edges or tu vanp .pe ! (q/ Fig.106), thertvas e insen se{i iru+ h m,rke the shoe enrrelyeidosed aid {deoroof

oD, rre courd gather r iishdy over rrf [,nep wnh

)

.aa"./

69'dyr5m*furyalrlld€'s6leL3

8rt rsrh{nbry bob, Ssb 1,3 Dd.

:l

shk: tnh Loda, :it5, tLn u50

4 n,nher tJ F of b! rded fodqer, rtu rne :o{ 000r hs 50 rrrblen tomd onlr h rhe dddf:tr4 N.ne o h. aruiviq e. impr6 has d !,mpere $F dr |re qppts dll.4n rr h:\e bem

rtro qu:dec ioiicd d rhe h{rhd Mdr 5\nftrnd 0n n3 $,ms m 4dre !d. LF{.;71r i e €

" a : h € € r . { t f l s q r d d i 4 b 4 d .

" M bevrtuuy.oibued dostr fllh ?dpc ̂ f th€frlntopems n 3i d dre innlp {d rhseafts o,J!dong MP dge d irrr olkr de d Fp rmirddbrhe mssd.,:.hofrd {mc m;de rhe

. . { h m d b e b p o f r h e b o d 4 i s r u l r r k ent dod 0rh\ sne E 'he prc\,.bnoIo,J! uie

nerrodrions ror ra{cmpni:ps d rr poini lh€re ,he rrm0 L "ndcisnrp I hm rh€ honrcd: bderedatrh.e\

ene( or ,.8n4 se b.or ,tsh!! r ure inkte

byEse mo.rtunrnin form.rrod\nrr Lrr?

fe deotr p. it3& F,s t5cr To udpe b, rh.d:md€. n re prt.qr ote{rn rhi\ tre.noh mry dJom bJ reo )u!ic lhrtdrei budFru fw&ep lod f rd ' } I uushod theshoh

t ra< { :be 12 ) The he ' sh ' ! v ,D .o i l d€nb j ,

r.f quF to4 anlJe +c\ G!. 6rr h M, kn''ng l . ,, ' mh - nd.:l h.uht but .;;rmea.Fjotuqs \ mrarb,hordij€rllu.tra.! Dmr tr q r0r 5arm hlrlebeei dF Do{

spr4 hnud n3 mora thr r0 pjFm die blh4r

, N m r b . q 4 r d r r r q , h e ) u + , a n e i e d

mflbd ss: a rr. i i+n d dre m{s (f !.63r, u m o n d h . r e m i i d c r s h 4 _ : I n s r ; r a lth rtrree pr. _ rnoo,e p€( qu?ners ed jnsen d rF tmit {E;

L ! ( e J . * d b y y l i n 4 n ! ? h p l ] r d ' e a n . o lo F { ! d e , i d n u , i n j ! ! . \ h € F i i r e i e r " , :

" 3 ib I h_F L' m bip. b.",{ rha .

t c ' h o b . T | e s d e ! p m 4 l * r r n 6 f n { , <Dveb@n: piii ' if .4trc {etna_5 belrlf I

rrr riir hrdD rnf .ide {ed bods f rr"yres.hdip.uM\ed roirpr?re &d mry n.o hn€

rh bcr Lsrhrd r6rh4dh_s. r $eLrri:;;.meir!. m, as. $hlhftp^u j relA{reLt;l

Shoemaking andcobbling I

It

;

I

tn n6t utbps .liht ph k4. n stu eaq { w^s4 t4tu,bdk ttu srtg rl'ut 6 bw Nt, tb.624 k 't rf Md it N4 sdttu^

'D,eE {ere seveiaLlong prdesks {hi.h had tobc sonc thrcush bcrorc a shoeiEker .ou!d besin

buicher wlh hooves Id h.ns sln ilk.hgd, ,rhesklis were ihetr $Ahed, rin@d, hid lhe h?nremoy.d .dd, lintly. {ere kDned (or tulle.ounh oI the pro.es.$lzman l9z3). lf,ather identf.ation lby tjlyNEdweds of ir,e An.eii MoimeiG L,borabry),whhh h,s bee dom m N6 si{y sh€s spimiqthe tull dde Rnse of the .ole.tion (Table 13), as{e[ ?s le$ paise visua] rnd Iactile ffirion,i i . des thd ihe le *A ,ch&ge in the i yp€so fhides ukd for d,e upprs prob:hry d sore tift

rtrscrd .t .:rite hide. thebiised tvdds sheep/god

(.ord*ain) - alihouh ii should be nored tlutEd{rlds ndes in h* rcpon (1936) rhd tone .lrhose de{nbed as sh€elgod nay h,ve beeu

de!, bui {e ae not yet atuii ol L\e dhsiosii.pdien ol $e lafrel (.1 Reen 1972, 235 Lrsimibrnjes beiween sheep/gct ud deet. C.lJ

l t l h j l y u s d i o r d 5 p u @ f 6 : l ] s c o ' c ! a { ] b

d s l a s h l r p F F b b ' o & t r ( o n l h e h 5 t i 4n{p d Meq rn &nddd a nirdr G N|LE

bil(bfushadlJysndeds|]GIis@$bhd e 5 F i l g a Y 4 6 e F ! 3 [ d e s o l l b e L l s h gr u ' i o A F t r o ' k l s | F s h i n & o o 6 e v d |rFen '& M.iderHq*bd (Nueeed, '5'h

; i.

;

:-::

=--:

:_

eAi\' predon'inds amoic$ lne saopled uppec

oaNloit exanohs oI sheep/soat vere lound inarr soups. Tosre rnd ra(het thoA+ *i ui

coftan4 {jth Goubitz s sqse$ion rhr lheseverc norc rikery ro be sr,eep/god beftuse oI rhesrensrh ,id fleribiriry or lhd tedh{ (o. coubrz,pers. .omm.) Heel- ffenen kre both dll andsheep/go*, the latel not ortUrring afier lhe nidlrth cenrury. ̂ t lea{ t{o s[oes (Ft 13, t.te

mid 1,lrh..eirury) myhrve had dllskii upp.6 md sheep or sodskitrheel.stlffenen - rn indsin! .ommenb!- on a.kuse in some ordimnces or i]je r-otrdo.cordvaine^ conipany (dded 1303 Maider1931 33 4) ihd eipre$ry torbade shoerokec

One theory thd hm been advanced lor thechange in the 6'!es or Intus trred is ihd rhemethod of tuse had been chansed: bu! RoyTho,npsoi, hinslrabiier. betieyeslhdhnningre@ined hrsely un.h.ised tdm the Sdonpenod b the r6rh o.rith.entunes. dth bmesn nny usnu Gr (thourqh srrppnu n vbarever eLsefl,e) thotrshr they ourd ser trwl) wi.h). The indeased use oI calf may, on the one hand hr€

o(6be[Yhldedgdle$strkk5eev6ekI

&lLds, btri, otr ihe other, nay have been the res'itoiade(e6e inthermuitolin'ponedcodsbn,or.ordMin from Spaln lollowiry.he expulsion olt hevoo is ' I i g l i sh

(he impoded.ord\ai. $th.:lfhide $hih ilFydr€d a reddish coLour dlie S{ain, pec cofrn)

ductioi in rhe late l4&.entq olorsmsd dnvesof cdde !o rl'e London rolk.b rhis Mll hr€ensEd a con$.nt sllply ol cadLe hides in ihecity vhereas preiouslt the Loidoi shoem.kes

(PhilipAinitaga,pere.com.) Thelsrh{entqma@n ii the preseii .olledion shows , deftaf both in the tumber oI uppers th:t havebeen repaned Oabb r5) and h tbe nufrbei rhdh,ve been deribeEtely cut op lor rcuf fl rble 16),rads th* night be dhbutable to bete.qualjt

able 10 shoetukere rd mbbles.

The tmed hides oI pd, deer or call shjch hidb-"en puchAed by the shoemakq sould be laid

number {ith the njllmuf {Abse. fhere reridence fom Ssedei dit dtring patens wefauscd to pide the knile thrcush the thi.knes ofihe lea$er oune Swm, peB com) :lthough it

pedom rhe hsk teehand certniily rhe quotjty

.r rong mro$ tri,.l l i ig pieles thd hzre been

.br a Nooded r.rm rtu fncdr: i qle ,Jrhe:coi 1.r Fig rlt: for dlo.rmrte\ rron yo*.+e IJ,.Ckeor 1932 114 5.nd Fjg il) Ttr

saLaft!r!fro. r,11 t nrrcr ituldtn! rnd iirch

r v s l h o t u D e d n g h ' s d e d t : l t r m | d t r D D errrn!ho. Irrho,3h

rid 20) rideedrrdi0:m* F$.dr r:i: rr.bddrrs .onr$,itneE ohnLr .rrd nDDers todrke $oes npry itu frie ,rrb{s ot itre .{tk]no{edthe$holepr..l$Ihl eblrombmiigrhe lndc r.nariisini sLingrbe nroer rMrider1931, ls-30). Desorc a setrrt, iheRi.e ro

eirs Ln t..hriquas rrl Fdres bei{e.tr om

th. r,me kompae r0r

Throush.trl rhe pen.d

shoertmaied:ehrivdl.rn:istenr {iib dr. m: I

Leaving:ide ihe eden !lio. (Fir 3l). Nhjfh

l:*lis mgin $d fto! he nre edge Gee turtrr{, Parl'rd tudh.rmins)rr'ri riw +ri hd 'hr ir. rd upperjo;ed

nrdiiis a snrLL tnr nsk otrr ot t.dtr, ! abuaei the rvo main eL.'nem (fis i3). ti rbed'ddre or ihe 15rh .. ! llt mdh ol .Dnnnr.on {A irered \nh the i.rodudion or rh.nD 'ydr rr ji F$rhre thd rhE onginftd rirr

;o1., 0. . uqi Gee

rhluBh. F.om bffr n NouLd be L( x rrlt de'dui'p to d,js. nrr rbe sboe h:d boer rumld.ndi.r'6m rorhe soreor!pp.f(Fis i{J rD ihi!kDin,onal*as. tuimr*(riirs mjlhr nL hryebeei Ned 0i rl'e oulr sola (showi in fE. i.1) asinde.d sflispfi rerb!dterr one 1'th.eniuq

afoh the Cjrv or Londor Bo]J SdriLlne (err/vired Ln 1936. ro. hre ior olb (rion h.'e)FULLy dcrcroped rtrh.,y.rshoes ho*ey( sem

sradflesh nrt.hes, ln the n:iier or thc boronunirs ol conportc soled pdrens Gee, tor

1930, 3 ad Fif 2 Not7rr13/9, orobabty e'l! r6th.ertufy).

Tl'e ro$ impotr,ii *,m $s that ot rhe t.$insnesii. Fmc rhe sole to thc !p!.r Du6 (FiF.72 3) The n le $?s arrhed r. lbe k*.d uppeusns a etue/fl.sh slrh (F]$ 2 3), whi.h

o(er sain s|lr. or irre sole. subjed ro rhe mo{ner.'l*o tkeirls {ere rob,bv Ned. fiolessourd b€ made {ith ,n atr1 lFts 7rb) &d $ei thethrsds, dosc ends seem ro have been 4h.hedh i bndk s drq Jr bd,.

".utd hF pi. €d

h ro !3hh0m. | fus i j es ides IJo ! | ! d iqh l I JF3 .7 r : nd : + ! rm ,ks . \ t d rhe l :nok re rolth! r51h.enrury Gvrtrtr re36 5) vhi;hlnsbnslesc@1ofhnkD Il hA.ot beei po$tblero dentify thl $n.hiu md{i,t oi ihe ealiershoes. butoi rhe lare l4rh{edr!^ shoes r vAiound to be plied, *ded itix (F p;rh,rd. Deij..onh ). The {,xing.l rhe tkead 'nade !h; ioinnoe{ *edgb l ' i nd3 ]some | t thd tbeupp . rand sore herd ro&ther, erci r oi[ bne0y, Nh€r

da t ih" !o@r \L\ rclhed rt5o sfc sm;Lldrolr sdse/flesh *ir.bes ! mn xpafr ?nJ 2 nnft om rhe edqe of rhe learher The sh?norles oathe seam .onpled *idi rha eirem..loseie$ oithe stircnes, nakes I untikety ihar rhese se.ms.onhined a rand (see .bo!e) This trpe of se,.ro(uE oi onlt a res e*nples, aid. since iio-m in the same Broups 6 shoes $ith ihe n reconl€ntionar Frn/resh ri$ing mgin (.1 Fis.33), shourd prob.bLr be reFded s ransiriomlbetveen rhe earrier $onged.'d the later sesihdnjons. Ar this time , gari/flesh lastu! haqi.alsotendedro be on the sh:xow sida -.2 5 mmrron rhe edge ot the teather with sman .ncular.!trh€s r\eEging 6 nm !p!d 4 gfune\hn rh on rhe upper medni thr 'h..€,m lortd bedeeper and $e ihreds thi.keri lado4 Nhi.h ?tsofacirihred rhe indusion or nids bet*een L\euppe Dd the sole.lr the llrh{enrury smtrps.ex.mDres $ere norcd or sdrch.holes 3 nm :&Fs

Thc hsd,s,n4in atso seied to echor

smrrer rebroren.ni pieres t. pbce. Tnanqutarp,cc( or ierrrer sere *nn inio rlf rreer se.irorp/ticlrady i. dE hisher toins oI too$ed. b

. r a - ; r l * e . r I h € ! : a d d D p P i , h 4 en .nen ymed rlhendousty Gonrmt rorcramrle, Figs. 93lorer edg. or rlie rrirngte *?s serr inro ihe h$,ns.magtr Mh FD/IEb (ii.lres dr .rher t{oedcs lere ?icrrred to rhe fiesh rde of rhe uDDerNnn a sh:ltov bindins.jirch {hi.h dtd nor pene.ra@ rhe full thi.kde* ot rhe tedher (ne 75).rbe use or diis iir.tr on the heel*ifiei;. md

reDror.emeirs. E evidedr ftom the f$en.e ot:slighdy $aloped edxe where the r]riead hA beeDpuned !e4 tighr L{e hole reintorenetu are

on de ealier side.Lmedshoes oig! 39 90), and .lmon imli,btv on thaber vnFs Frg. 103r {! n rh€ lEe ;d Fr{5r(hFd rtoihc 6i nsnrgn:id thei itnhedn pb.e otr the uDer {irh bindiry{tilch:loig borh

a 6ne, sh:Ios ldse/flesh biidiig $itdr ispr$eni on mtr:/ shoes riom $e eaLy/.id t2!b( f l un onk rds r longdreopeds?o 'h€ lopFr]n.on e qVs lb' nly \ m!l\ h}r beei l! reiniorce lbe edge (Nhcc.*or 1932 140) sterasii oth{s it sefied io se.ur. , i.do{ nir oIrerher of ropband,. Tbese toDba.ds. {trhh $ertsome.mes single thi.kne$ 0.i9. 97) bui moreo kr of rrr i $,her futded dolbe (Fss s9 90o1 j * r | r J \€c i ve ' lmore [n+ . r rTDsn i l e r

6e i,r 6*rts d de sd$ ed $ {e ; sibh d

rhe sboe. A third oprl.i, sugseied by tudndsoir19t9.l0t) |rhr 'h rit l, os 'ay luv! besl

bItr rc.oded a .onhini^s lbe iemaiis.l$1[rirv posibl! be 3 Linmg (Che Thorrs rrr

The lie \ns r'0.11!

s l t l ) e n e d F / l l e s h m f g o i l o j h e d ] e T ] r

rnd mr b:!e t{l itld repa;s Gee LeloN. p39i..oiried of r heerx^d i'crtrr..id r\(.j,ftdarttu Nrisr $rb ar edger0erh bu! se,h

l li l

c L * b h e & l i o D g d d e

,l

sl'o. otr. .I dr r3'llrdtrn dr{rnq boo6

r.d', re md eloh.d 'do roiser co lnuor$.5 r$ered ,!md rb.

emne .f.ufrreiefu. rr th! Lhiing mrp.

:nd ihrn lfrhed olr (nor tb. sni:rr dlref o,n r.hei oD .irher !de]. It ryA rhei runed nshrsid. our rnd Ih. {{rqr irlqr Fr\t1- (rom

'fhe slde *amsjolnln!rhe +0e q{,er otei[(eere*ose{nrNetbeshoeusinsideoul The

m:ii so:ms, nd iddo.d r Io{ Njor shoc pie.es.

nrei r$ i one-ple.e t;r r.uid wii[ ioaddrtjons or major m0di6.ition: io t.onfr.dtrrethe faieoie. and me mjor fam d rhe lde

.diiq ldrem5 beaoe nLghd! i 'ofe co'nplrcrcd\rrh ihe jnrodudlo. ff (he to(gl. IidaiLig

(p 43r , rhes. slde jolis {ers rulrcrablc, :nd I her

(Fs rr As 'vtrb i[eL a n n g D I ? ' h [ t h E a d s w e F o b ? b L s e d '

ovenapped seam {Fig. 73) ed a b t sem sxmhicvcdby.UtMlrheed]qesoI$elaa$eronIansre (ric. 7e) ro obt,in a .roser fi 'rhesa sems{k mff,ly sed bioin the ni; Pds.r ce4per, bu. snaller pie.es, su.h 6 Ia.ings tlFi33 37,93) ortonses (,' Figs.91, r07) {ereoJten {h.hed fith a binding seam (Fig 30) This

pos,bly trsiu a ieedra ,rher rhd .! awr ind

ALdoqh n {6 @sibre to make a drawsringsboe kom one p'ece oI learher {Fig. 33) there

{0[e4oi{hm,ddiiio!:rfuighlwArearredroon anrde shoe or lo{ booi (.t Fiss 23aid40).The eianple sho{i ii Fig. 23 olleis 3 possibleexpladiioi lor rhe suonslru .bsen.e of hnerbods Gee below. pp. ll3-9), additoml pieces,

ud.ould have beed e6ilr reused Fig 40 shoxa lo{ boo. b6ed round . one pie.e .uiq

extEhe'ght'Erendththgdtap'ms.thdeee n o.! tuc edrqe/lesl' but sam joiin'c

Figs 39 :id 90 rep6ent some oI the ediesleisiom ol the side-lmed foot{er *hich, drh

edy/mid l5th.ertry sroes ar r.s L,m (4Ft. 103) one ot them G u'usu?ly.u1. qirh bothseG .l lrce.holes in the quafteE (Iig. 39). Thera

hNins the lacins on a sepante inset (., Iis. e0),

srensrhei iha deas or ue shoe mo$ subjed io{e&,id {e,kne$ Ms i' oblious impturemeni.whikt some of the Lrler shoes *ir shov eviden.e0r beng bmed on sinsre p'e.e ottins parens ({.!is.9D, Fis. ros hA: septrma vafrp and q!.i.res, urh a hrle re.Lisular imen covenq therrod oI rhe root and hking moi or the la.e hoksdown one side. The ra€ hores have fiirore.ment pie.3s :rong ther tun kn&h, a iecessirypci ineir doseias ,id $e righhe$ wirh sb.hrhe boot Ms evidenuy hced to 6t the werers

;hoes dDt oie sees shoemkeis besrnnins to

)

deliLest (as ooposed ro raidon) $eds to bk.enhrt rossles or'bunodoles (F€5 9t 2) Th.

rcns 10 h.ve beed a re$JoremeDt cord !lnr.gihen the edser 'fhis i\ irrkcd b! a brorddesp dunncl *nddled b! liiel stithes, and a!h.etom'B,ynds CFiLe. on {hif}' ihe ilirad

ra$ened shoes i rr'i.k iltraad or .ord ol rlns tlpe{A oltm nrhedju( jiside iie dcr edrqe orthe

ieribillN A ihe shoe s?s beins pd o, (Fig 92) It

one pie.e .utiis p en {A zbandon.d ii r.wuol a t{o.ple.e shoerprdc qrde6. These bad rso min lo$ flibdt krN on.ith{ sde o,lhe r..r {nh th.n,lDeDb e Latli.i or brtJc inps beld E phftNirh a but *an aid reLntorme .ord (Fjss

r e j ] f o ( 0 e t o i g 0 { 6 P d i u h i ! o l d d b

33 oGt@ dnrelns slic,fth Fid b(dd/qdd r?rh4Nry, TlF be sds. d rhe qts.h36ftdcd!i6'b'di4{tjd'd!ard

edlexrBr bub dbn. a sdl Ed4uL. id.rl,.fu ri6 a e4e/&!r hd @, wddir6tued de lnrui @ 1h 3ol! 0oG, 4hr! ade,,rt !F, 0e,b !td. 4idr) E ynbrlr d4hr{id.d;

G{Yod r2rlr{.iuryr oie rictu vrp

aig]edcdgdlesh6d|eandde,deol

ssom.Pjecshc(edy/ddr,h.eni4) vi'h u e4de$ hr s'n d rhe

(rusiad frd { edse/nsh bu( lam

snio slde (,., $o's sdth8 6! u

16 Nlah Fl or I eBd4,ir]}she (.a:t/niduib€tod, ritl' a bi'd4.dbh &is d. rFedse&denge/dahbutsmdlhe!trordthot',ftelhc@igi'[yhidhofud-1ti4fuiceddthesideofefuL'idrsdlEdryur'iN.d d th. tk€t held h rLe V d €d!e/04h bln3m'Tdmkb''.hj4rulcdaF.i'oddi'Hjddr kbdllin tiiKiq), Th! sli !;de(rrt) Bbo% r enb@dded @ *i!. seb r:3.

,#33 Dcesd3 a&r shoe Gnry u6 edqt

b'4.ru1!i iud]rcL{Dlhcvihali j lcLudh!slith,Th.qFIonpbEdfidain'gu{4rn

/I

I

L

l

.r

39 Sn .bed ur. d@ (at l3s-@bry).Trelile.@fu'Bdi'3.bolk&tn!'aftd h . ] a R b r b ' t h e q ! 8 f u ' I t e E i 9 .6iodi4..t'ttd4hod'edFdebfohEibleldl oit ! r.2l sd@ ortu dDbd(Ede 6@ di! stio, loldld dabk 3!d *.md dG. bhdnedbi) t ltuhnld. sek 13,

eo sid.-la.ed de she Gdv l3s mtqladoush m&oFno dn tu. 3e d ot d'e eftM,tstyLe$hshcisoE!;{erj!\debchobs

l lr4dedddasiigl..ojn@WleAenotr'@tollhe!4bed;il l$nEdsdht:3'

53

sr i4lAh@d lor drd*ne Gtd r3sc6tur). nD dh rie is -M.n d m. tube rft'r hiidiiFd, 3!d r riaubr dw, (!.tritr M!d,s.tl.h€djolgiLAcdisnri!'!nd'n: rnbhoL dd M bsd€ (d. Fa. 12) h di.!i.36 ! n t h . o @ ! i 4 @ , i 4 , S d . .

|\

$s

9:! Tordea.idd LT rfl!{ne oft $d'tu), Ie !h. d.b,te*d @td !!'r.hd dqth. .d& or 6. @&!tet! ,nd tr. Vd b th! labba*pud''gd!6hes'sgLlj'

oyn" ue lnp ed,. rrc @osdom;6:r. rq 3r reF herdh pr&. qria bud;s 5u(;

d F ! h $ l b ] n d 4 $ t i s ! * | 3

ilru/ \ *

9,t Tqde.€*!d lhe Gnd Ln{.dql fiisi !t[ h|sd o . litrd. dEitr rice. but fid k r,ddidodal.o@od ( q!ft4 e6dia frm fi.

3@ d dE h..l i! a !@/!dh hd @ ndr'.r€fu3t}u.dbylh!ovllF*nqorrhekd'.E'rn .d3Bifl. h.a eulib rbi"dia{bbn and

rlED, rNiua tr d (o!ry ' 3d *did ihshd).A14ti4!h14!l,di6sdh|Eb*ndodg e tublsrhof 6e €4 ft d (d.Fi4 el) ie d3r;q8. Nd rE EF pi@ 6rdE shiidEr,id.lv.!'@d@el{6bl's.selel:3'

s ' I d g l . 6 9 b . d g i @ t g i d u d @ ) ' m d eEoseB|evaD3!dqll:4'oI6emg5id.

o@o turoor d bbkehoru€ M';|x.u!@sfubi d dE dtl de pI ift &;

DE hh @eEddd qi,i s rld4.dd. h;hbor l 'oDbd' rhe bs H, nade 'n th;!'o FnoiD 3wit4) rr{h uRi@du$:

\

flflfl

I)

r\l! :)\ it 1

e6 cdds bsd. bn mdb6t(fnl4rh+dis).Tb.!E!i4hFrro!.dft601,!i6'died!:|.&e/f.si bu @ Tnh B I rd $r'ifhd 4 tne hdqr@hbn se p bardE6 !d. Tb€ boot l'ld r sidepin *. NoGeoddourusti'dfd's.:1.1:3'

e? sd'bad bmi (nid r1d{ob4). rb nturcPeoudlidea'ddec*@kfsdv.rtoied Eddy , rhe btep, FrA {i$ aied3e/re,h bdt $u dd ea{r ffi a bbdb8*am.rk r2c bh vde oriqiiany sftqered Ms aniiJdcnor pise (Dissind, vhich ts dhddfuBhotheds6dsbidbsstithes'ThebPbod36*s'bdasmlti4fub*{'iebs6&m4b n Dv nistu. sere li.

t( (

$

0U

s Frerhed sie (bid llrldns), d heope'cofutded4drfuq!i@Tiule d adu ddae &\o8, {.i s riq. es, ddr9E d !u?i4br '@s d! hid ot fi. i.el hhrhq ft {dr d e hdr 6d d0 ts 4 dds sid..rn shc had ' shdc bc d a r4r auci.d drl'hhdnq{.dbo'y@adeold!lup@es

99 Frdt-rdd 6pic trc &E l!rh{4br),Th@ftbcjd[.3edsdbnd|o]!dtlelzeiok.'Allloqhth€qd.cad]4ew.d6urupi66oflalj.l 'ftqJfutlht!.blcl'plonedftheeld'i.h'a!d!do|n.F€wrs r4ia do. (Irs. s6). &:j. 1:3.

10 Frcdhd:nldeshe 0n! 14nie!bd).T!€ @tsr B oisii'ny iad! j! m liF (fosin'tu eriig-Ftu se nq, 16), hur die rhe tubhdgfty.ditnwhm&etlbbM'T}.|,*niiJoMFbhdeiE'idei!

mi rave b.!n 'dded 4/t rr. erFc m3 b€ed ('| eftd{,!.34Dr d !h. o@ side @b.dr rr5) bure t i t m s j i c l d e d d $ e l u h @ o I t h . d evabiq3eh*!erauinbdon2jdo'the@tird .dhcd' d s r mjdr &prn. Ile dueffi !tr d3! Gd3e 'irh hiidqFdb! otr rh.h*sieod''N@tlE':jrdhftbl.d'|abhd'

u#

1o1 rrc hed &Hrsh@ (|ab !16.edq).ntre i oe @h pke, ht a s@[ i*fr (oo]mrsid q"s *wn in, Fnt vih bjnd 4{rithesFirygj.Iblt*it.h.s'enekeuPdeheqhd6e

jhpesioosroud'eedesol$eunD'|ad'

14s.eiinry). TYlpd oNrru.loi

lhd io4 s" "d3e,dde 'tuu' .+

(

sedlenglholbo|ibigdgs'aditysldhd,te4deEdbybeidi4deeldoqatrdnithinet

---=E

--==

=

=.

r04 s,bo. vid sdernchd i^bids &r 1{iLetu4' Tre hd6 & rLn by e c@6 adniirord srt! i ard rtu tdrd w siqiDie dh pLe ffi n c&e/r!si bfti€n oirheii@cdermols!1c!iol..ud'dql}.u@.&e, d,. -diM or l biidnq*4n vhich d drch*plegcdsoEf4dIF&4ine*{@ @b'bt dded aEg'iE 'nd, h€@!. rh4.bnyrlq.r|l '6Eiii),r.md@d'@mlbu. b e oricn'd pd oI dE e,T hq @b!h@DltitdEdinblhdctt$tleside3fu-tsd,P,de!tlesheh'dgpfteFd'sdH'

I

1os oiepiec dh*hc (ary sd.etrhryl

lhed6elolco.lheshFi4akryesp:d.'sfuFjtfu.opreftdnslDpiqMsn$.dil 'bd

t6 o!!.pi!4 zln$be G'nt $$€bry)lb!€dbyMh.tI.| 'si'd]tr@,fudmbns. ms, derr d'n a.&elf!i hus @ nrhafut'ldsdMg'.tr99*tlqtdEbsDh5.uNiblI.r4@nq.st.l.hA!'ltleid, td rboYe nE bsEq @h, 3ro' tur Esho.hadrend.'saLB'

ro7 !@r (e!ny bd.e^ruB)

sl] ' leE.'Thelolsomssev!tl

v4eBJdteft9IabDbod

[-lt /\ - /

fli i$

1

103 sile.Led td (edr rtudtry). Thfup:d'fi.i!&*!trdeos|l'e@fu"d$0ede/iBbhhe$dth'6\eq4adqlfu joiled ritr' 4 c&erlsh bdt *e. rlrbel'ob Eiihft.mt (dsily losD w *vD iiri$hndi4sdbhodbothsns'NdlilE$rirr.ftdtr'fudy{p'dd'bks'sd.1|3'

June s!a0n 09$rl ti.ei the inponri.e oldE

Dut 00 bu.kl* hmrsho!i lz2DdJiDuiq. r00i);rd Ldhim & vdther$ rcTi)-33, i2rir The

FnL)',5,I.:djoihth.au{.ti iroll l ' .PujjhtrComnrn\exrlh. bd rhis s i.r ro strJ lbr he'll.d rhoe bLrkle\d..omnk tr the bu.kles Lnris.ll0 espenrllt

ahemral $d tens (rry

Irb. r.n) Lndrmt. rl*t allrbe ht. l1th.eiiu[

oltinning(Txbbr{J

snply not detded bI rlre m llflLre.hnlqF:

Naie arso ioud r rb.lsd, rdr{ groQs (6n

rhl5penod L! rar tli! rrio.rr/ *em to l':ve bpe.or kid illr \irh noo iDs 12: c\r^|,Les) 1l'n!n

rlrough a sln r he[ to ftde : se.uF loop (ILg

edr,nd lsrh{rdu^ lu.lild nrc\ Thcy dcves similir The oDe iiru{nki io Fis r jdnsn6 oI rn und{onled iediis'h p{e ol

end o, rhe nnp 'rrll I'r€ pased thmurqh : slir (.i

' - - . /

Z,Jri,id,a rbr Fnn s Pnt.hrdlTli. .ol!.iLm .onbins nedl! :10 sh.es dri {cre

h*on! /nd Sroii:1, A 'vel s a.lftoLoF.,isomesoirhelruhnrf or.i'broid(cdshles oJ

\l:rr lboes do merted $ b.iis enblLlthcd

eirmoe5 iDois vbrb m those ol n!, iirbnhops oI crndlrlrti, llub.n \rrlter (d lr0t)zid hdmlid Ri.h tl r:11) rcMni.1933. CdNos 16 ad 29) frt{rl!.tembiord.nsilrdten d rtr: n,lL.nrrd Nnh lj'ds bart

ivishLf enl,eln$d oi ft ronhneir )u1 ns

RL. q

@ @ @- . E r

f f i @.-:- d

@ @ mtc? I

dd6k brdtr q ft @deG ju{ betow L\e :itb.

..mp!i-, trr fn !d

+ u q ! e l d k E 4 8 i | d c d * n F { r f ] e d & . r o l -

i , o r F m u < d h , d n t r r h . s r J ? d 0 ; , m d r

. h l o | n l o l | r , f u ' i l ^

. \ F i d 4 r c d f l r ! t i i " I e f l t j h " ' I n

r.1 hr or flre 12'h ! tu^ T a !d\ ollLq

n f r e d J e | l b . i 4 ' r r e h e n o p l i 4 o n J i k

d:!A ,!um ,h. r0rlr 4 !rrj Id {t!. +uI z ) i e . l m e k | r f r q l e q A ̂ | b t r l d M ? | i ;

mrp.nr4berrm Biting.sre Fs rl, Anrn . s fM hc uL he ts { t re r r ,her {h l€ ihe ,hoe

h o " , h € e J k t u o r o $ ! !

spred 3 nr aDid mF*edo. rhe shoe frcn s,qn Lrne.I de.obLre rtu€d rqs ne( swi lrom side ro stde 0;*i r i h rc l rh heh $ bu Fs re ruh r i , ne ; r !h€

A{ ' i | d | | I e i ] r udo id€ |n l . i ' l obeveomr$^ r{dnpr \hoe. tmm Lhe ihbe\ atrlrddFDus o he \tiid ur\litlharen, $nh une harft. agoid inpes 3lo{ thc siis A ven A d4n rh;-n t - o h " , " ! iHendnr . re r j r n? -n ,

a.d !'e F.s.i.e of rooi{.} qdr simihr {..)p

,,enb,! ,nkle !ho. Ln Li. nlh or e.nrf r$

bero{hede.orrh.rhnrr f.iry nor v{e sub

n r , L h . ' h r ! p . h r , h r f l L J j s

. l q ] b ! h i . ' l n l h e d g e \ b g d ] € I q h j r e t h

l; mj\ ! hcrr Llred;.0dltr jt ]m! JJr mI 'h{ amD L!6 |oll @;

r . e " n e d l ! , L i r h ! G ; r- ; . 6 7 q n d e o r T h .

nq ! 'n pdr.n rt'- L.nbelr.hu \hoe Dnrb

nrir rm!'t hN tron Lvndd \r. b rq rLfr r n d d r r i f t r r o l g ' h r q ! i o r r t s , r 4

J l ! . . J b i u q ] r . l r d m ! . J u ! ( U r v n ] | | 1 0 ! r d

.edrB depos$ (Fis rLz. sr As : conse

ie nbd rh re . t dsn rhsydp r r r , r t ; .

rieh sohe olrhe stir.ries reiuin inrad Tbee

rhe 4 rhd r l r o icalrng uirue {hin:M $outd h.!e rlibmeredh f . ru r r cL \ , , r r {I i € { l h P m p ] o l d

or rhe rb4d cmi.s usibG m i& $rJ,c {tiL

[ine rrrrs Th€ inpes{ekimbrordekdr\irk. rh. be* re.en.dr \ imr . - r o ' \ e i t r {o f ! h . \ na jh r . . . hD6o l

oar & corn*ei lri Gl es: yaip nnps

s6F$*|igh]'.soEdi.loricigfMscje

l14)i ro$er, ton Swan Line, lras red and white

shoes from Be4e0. Nosay has : iurber oInore elabociely embroidered shoes and rheseshow rhd dirfernr bro.ks or.orour veie sometines preseit dong a single nripe (Inge. R.Pedenei hd Ane L.Gen, pers. com.). ThereFdotre oI nitches ,]so emb€.ed d.ss.$jt.hand *tu sbrch. Irus &e tul nnge of pdrems onthe Lddon shoes sn odr be .oijeduftd in ievor the decay of ho$ ot rhe embrcidery rhread.

The iechniqF ofdrii-$irh i:lls inro a dtesoryol enbmidery knoM ffi onym work, sonetims.aned ,r'a 4r,rz,r' in rhe 13th cenrury bease I wtu a FNlar nsm ol desndnscushions (chn{te 1933, 33). a.ushjoi rrom rhegove oI d.hbishop Nauer de Gny (d [t5),who wx! r re&nt or Engrad dunry rne minonryol Henq u, *tr couched in cord dread on asround {orked n plaii sotch iid tros{tirch(King 1971, 129), {hire the p4tefr of rhe dshionlion the sped&ulir bmb ot Femando de lacerda (d. 1275), in 6e mausoreum oiihe cdrirmroy:l famiLy d the mmeni or Las HFIgA in

entnely in ptiit{rikh(c6me7[Ioreno 1946, 36, Ph. d.iii-.rxiv). Thed.le of u.nbishop Hubed walter is an edierembroidery n praii,siihh btri rike rhe de Gny.ushion it n in a fr.snenkiy .ondjtion since ihe.av*rlike hdenal used lor rhe roundation h:s

(ctuistie 1933, 50, Cat. No. 1&. Tne L.ndonshoes mde rron redher, a nore res ied mtenal

:g

-€

M I = - ' B P h . . h , h .:.q+ =

L5!n.dEs, tnus ei,bre a Fp ro be 6led in $etunon.ar re.ord of this foh or embroidery, iidi.stins thai ir vtr nounshing on a coNide{btesde 'n be lzth century a *€ll as in su(eedingye.is. The lide exrd or rha pacrice cm per

broidered shoes, ,rbeit matnlr ta.L4r in anysewing thread have been eravated in Encl,nd inDurham York, Lin.oln, coEitry, OxJord,wo(e*er, cro&asrer .nd wincheder.

AJter embroideed yamp fipes, rhis is rhe honconnon rom of de.ontion on the sbo6 in rhe.olle.tion. Al 6e upF^ virh this son or de.orail.i tuy be seen in Iirqs. 115 11? The de.oErion seems to have b.en sfieded afiei rh3 shoep'e.es had been cul out aid tdore &e sh@ *xs$itd'ed rocether 'fhe {ork s*ms ro have be.ndoie fleehand, {ithout the ssisbn.e ol gllde

fith some sod ol .uttiqpden.}lthoqhsonciimeslhedasignscoddb€.ombined $rr sed skil dd efed, mosdy tneshmos {ere i,npressd in $r4hi tines, cdetulyspmed ro miiinj* the possibility ol reas be.

The edtst evmple, Ft. l1sa, dares ro theft* baLI of rhe r3th .entnrr. conpded pirh lakreximpres, the {o.k *cm vary &trijous, *.irh av,nett or 4 snd roffs ,ven8id8 3 by 2 mm

-:-

--:

=-:-

==

-=

=-

4&wr&

lhe !,rrme or Ft

rlbp i!, ir,€ lluseun.r Loddoi .oLL.diiJn (r\lor_1674) *hi.h afu/Lly !0mbin6 opeNork snhcnsaecd hrice {ork)

Frsio viftor mvLrcsLlar.dFs Trp dFniqs

eeLyimid L3d, tdu!.. sroe i i.ding ihd $ernestr:rlhtLynoi.dE\dqedi l iarq.adur rr,c sr,oadkeD rr.e mort tanJrrt sntr die

limihrj.Ds lmFrd br thn iyo. otdelondon

dosery spred The snitkr moirs $Li.h remor {idet !,,ft{i, bord rhe shao. ot rltr ii.

b\rured(he {rhqro*rerchrddsrorthffeTlre shoe r Fre. n5. r* $drsr ,6 lbe

qn?rten oiry ths rine de.oiled \i1b elongdcd

b€en plred venj.ally d 6e lwow eqes to u]tbe spre fore evedy. As in $e oiner exanrDles,theie is no iidietion ollhe use orsudelnes. Theshoes ii Fu!. 117, b oiiy h.ye opeo{ortdeoErion einmins $en bw.4r vmp L\r@ts.Fis. ii7: h:sRooi.enrri. to*sof o!,tpdon.ho6, vhisr 11?b ha fou prns ot lons iam,

The hs exmpre b $is sedion (Fis. x6d is:lso rhe 6nen, ad is refiiisent oitbe fne open.work ,tecomrioi oi lhe sh@s depicted h a paiit.ing bon sr. sbphei\ chaFl, wesl,Thster (FL.ns). The p.tten k both .ompfsbd od liasit€.T],e strrt ce ot ihe v,mp n divided ine ,zm{ddd pjder panels by the ditreent rotiG dd conbiiatioft oI mbls The widest ro{s ft 6lmdby semred lozenses edsed {ior plain riusuta!sraps. Besids dlese aft naaof rmverse rossof snall dosesL $ well as *ids pmeh of dte.-mrios ri:nstes. The sbmps h,rc been @e6rlymd.rosely spa@d -4 m apd buritnprcbable that $e ?Ieaating nmow b*s of smanssbmps heb fte {jds pdels rer.in then shap..

sde hftd $tr Garry 13d cetu$ for E@6rru.dm$e Fig. ,9. Fhsh sid. (iisideJ $oh. rhe isd bbk'bopsiBl{e|iohsisdsbg'fu.em

cnb sid. (dcder. r aurt{s dbrrde dhri€rra$4cd shoe (]ft !$.adury). cai Me. $&

tr'..::i:

FE'S

/"::tEiqEzzi_""--;#:;;::g

F4ord n.h $oe d !tumu ryF cdrdd 1nn iz?!3P3;t

Tbe fngiri!.f nrch {ork is dtei.d t,, rhe:trwd or rhis !"mp in sc$ t oie.es $irh sone,Jthe rcauPr iom b{\reen o.c opentng

"d rhe

rig rtga, drkble to rhe lah r.tih.eituo rr\eEd qrh shaLLowLf r'ld. clo$Lf sD:.edrfti.c No.k. rhe p.ners or io. sd deordj;i {es4e4ed by phjD nrips edsed b! o?m$ ines'tr.re rhe r(rrer surhe hs been $rap€d bak

F ' m e t . h o i h 5 r ] m g i l f l b i ] | U t | ' F^ r l he d \s un i n .d " t h ! . , r u n {e^

.rrc.d ro rbe cryined de.onrjon (Mrh a bh,nrrNnftdr 'rirr tr,rs so pop*ron orher formsor Lerrenork (cN&ll. d. Nrdqerd & cnfltrlB1937, 40 and 13) Thc ji.jjed \ork Nh;h h!b.ei .e.orded 0n ledtE srrrbrd\ ot rhe enrpeno'r is fam! .nd. f re dron b rhe NOiL od rhisshoe dlNdr it {iI be not.d rhd rhe lDes $ed

t ] r ] n l l l l N . d l o lsdbtud ard rhN req#ed a sfar. de*4 of

colL..ri.D s hcli de de.on r-ad tn this vi y;r d,p

d ihe rqnh side oa rha redber b rac : dffert*

n:bLltrds rr.,i ,Baytrrds cfnk. or I sligtrdrs r r j e r dac i e .0 ,Ao@$dbha i l i t ,cedrry (c.\rgin, de Neeqard & cd6ths 19374r) tu ir {A tror Dosibteb rhose rr,rrs hder.n.De {hdher rhe toaat difterei.e vd i. radrh. rttuLr oa $rpiis brk ihe sd:e. or otbs(nqabolimpL.m. bnefl! or rhe learhor 11

r{r trhFr d! te,Lrr.! h:. b.ei oleLt L^r

osor, Dnor o rhc dr.ler jnosoi ol rhe htrrtArF IhE.llk mder edst0s yns N{e or btk

:\N , ,

)

lt

ftLl.r,isbeeid$rt{edN$"rsdu,q The nes

pre$ r on * qrher':rl'crdn L! the shzrp

nor : rrii\ i5 etucd by rs! 0 dh rins and b), rltree

dshhei fbol.. Th! {rres d .rh side have

rD4i?rcd dors ihe sLoo'trs hms. \irh linet! ?r8'red pm e tnes scr.rs $ ,i uler tor thrr.D rgemprrsp:.e(s?.Fig t2L.ddrlt,fhe

on slmmetn.dh.prr.ed rhrterealdesigns qhi.h

outidr bire tlblei deLideted Nnb eigrljig,

il*!bdst?entD*ingb:ckgdidOlo['Tbe shoc in Frs.

:ltrio{ geooetniN ibnid

0

Fig l2ld h?s been de.onted aith a.oi$in

niii ee6 ot de.oiationbsedonade{gnorsrfrrrehn.eohieterts themuling our oI de.oDtive mas in advan.e is

gnled, i. $ould hir been po$ibLe to rdjun rheliia.I dre birder b fir rhe leaftip, nther thzD

l1o$ rrom lnnl al difleEni stras {A exnmned. :id n is .Gr rhd one spr.ias, ?rdifu,rl 4d l4 .4 ld { ' \ b j r? ' t | r emo . tP ' ru I ' bF rc

ibtrds or rrre nmpl.s 123 er:o et tr n : pio,

'!ry5mir FprnG! krve. $ hnh n at€ r!pnisrd dez l ro r ! . e , . : r , r l Fs t22 l d I rrour,r have, besrdes. sisili.er :bs.beot propen'cs tr poleirnny duabre dinbure ror rlEnu6is of i shoe ody ts. oiher noses,Rhliniu&bhf tnqtdn5n^rrot, o(uf ii :i!- DunbeE (rj :M 7 eimplesiesp{bfln. rhey hde Ethc'$jfi, si.r rems

rooscry b rh. soil, and genenny soN in .onsider,

eten$r or rued NoodLanddon.dcd oo neurrtto bsn soG ln oedicvrl

'i:;,ia,;i i:iJ;;;:"r;'t,'itl,ii**ry

1 ; i:i:::i;;,#r; :i:;,1;:;qil1;i;ii,:'

;;i

it*:1:fr5f]r:*r,:ffi

ffiU-i:1*;;ttri$ftil$ud',rffi

: , ;

i

ihe fttreoad orrt..r^, k Hmpo$rble h deFtit eith .aitairr' a! shoes h rr'c .oLlc.ton thd

.Lsrcn or iiLhes:lotrg the linios'trrsiN ol

soLes 0f the irp. ibat shoLrld 4!ded:i be tunbded odr t! .obbler. These thLmDs '. rtrrkinesula y shrped ieles oI hr$er rnd reredM.hed vtrL tunneLjtilchins (Iig 123) NoF

srflxltogeiher(FLss 91,93)bulmo&otetrr'c,ir evdeme rhir a dn has been douled sprolidld by nith mdks. a$er on rhe soLe (Fl333i or Lo{ dou on the uDDer (fla\. s,l 106). As

Sha: uut Pdtt^

irrt orviers l,elorc tlry rtre 6n:lh disardcdEquxiry *.king rr rha kry ro,! !4oirion 1l4srad 10 ler.en() in tlie latc l4llte ury st-

ir,ls cisd.'qrouD sji.e, theoreiiftl\ at lcmit h i s S b N | d j f p l y l h d ' h . l o l m r d F d s d h en6h+ dn.nhd Ln ihe iile!.ouid xttud r.{

Derhxrs,bdd,eyhidrlienr.panedbf rdediied.ord{;ds. rlm agrid Gee above. r 23) km j g h l { e s h t t h d l h r s e p o J t i e F e a c m

seeh to l,ave been r.p,n.d 0rb1e 15) o(d'on'ally, addiri.ial *ii.h ii$resions s,gs€s dDt a

tvoe ofteDiir is : Dd.h seNn in on the 'nside or ntr5i;e {i&bi iisjrii.h (i. the 'idmer olr heelstitientr or lr.e lmle ianloi.ened) to corer INornneaorbole. o.e orthecleuer 4amplesolrlns is sboM n Fig. 10r, here 610 su-e$"e

iltr side ;fr, Fd@s dtr die slrce b?d srlir

4:n Reoans or rltrs |rd seen iot ro ba'e been

siLLhire \rorn ihroqgh lois betort the Dpp.n

-i ;r \qe dri r ddw{d dd rresh \ft '

:;.'

Pattens

Jr"lr';Xii,T,,ilJi,.:iJ:J;.i:Ti:l,,il;1 :' l:"ili::* i:,JlJl:,"i,.::: ;"; ; i'flil',;:..i x",i+::liii:,i;'i,jl l,1l, P l ! D q l g s ] ! . 3 9 ! ! j I J L h e s

::-iJr,lrr rl'lr':l*llT:fi:T jrri:iT:li1i;i,:.'i[".r,,1:

ffi#nffiffiiliilfirrj[f]#l,[

ffir-riillr l

J s l ' e | J t r h e ' J c \ r r r n n ^ ] ' i J ' r l l i [ ! i

u r s . 3 r ? d r d . L a n . L T i h , r r l l , ! , . \

$ e n h r d € F T . ' s 4 H ! u _ e - \ f L p r ! h i uJ . ' e ; l p e J f r o m o r e h l o 4 ! s t r ! d ! $ i , . ,tr hrch oir rhe grouid diE rri. yd ir is trrhmor di!(rLf ritrhed r ro jldre n m lhe

$ L q o r ! h a F e n f l d c d o t o a ] . r y p o u | # e ' t .

ms, mdo trom t{o p r€s or Gdhefj#ed d rhecitie aid dc.o'r,"d {irli idnpal itortb. burioo. D eN or rhb dd! rer pr.lidcdr h ro.Bnds thd {rte iijL j:bL! rFrs: 123 13rr.TlN

h . " ! b y r h ' ! h m r o i , r T h _ " , r r p h , ;

rded D Fr3s. 126 i br ro&in! rrori on. radle

, r ro^s r ! aFs m; rNrs rreb:Ll! s rbd ther srtd b. \sn bde

ro!.d,ar ThE ]!i hzrr rltoftdihe od,qL roaoi

d f h v a r . pw,ri$,poDhr. nar h:* h?d a c.opleta ledhcfsdem@! rsrs lb. tFetmdroFFn hd * 'tunse md r lbe eme tinr, b n:ke r bqe

F-@*l;"/

123 Pzb t-4ldr (bjdr'r. r4i'+dq). TnI.:s.rsu@!md4hkfuiddklmoflldvldaocEdrit]'.Ed.Fid€d56Pe(mrr.n N h dd.d lh*): !'.F vr robrbry Dbidiis d ii! .deJ, haup i\. 'Eils ck:rt Fg@! dr srldida (l])4M It. 1zr. Ttuhsbt4 *s eft*d si@t lirl a Lon ia[. soL

u7 1/.rO er@den Frh! (ddrte !6 .sb4r.

oon s! 5lnfrebaj pisrs toid , 6c c(e (ore

-

sm]x {ere oroded fo. rhe tu* tim. Th. rr4.

d redber one oI $ln.h is no{ n0nl! b$sevn ioscder ions rhe .dges Lrilh : bDdi4

To protcd rlr ledh{ from duftr! uid{ thc .ar

Dicp a.d rlm ta*ened \rnh: bu.h., as o, i

BoyJ Schoolsite litr rs36 roo larc ro be;dudei

Hiryed {oodei D.trens $rh 1l,r !o es.oniinuedrobe {on' the6i{hrtofttf151h.e ury Trjerype Dred .i wedsG is vo,isingty able.t tromborh r.3 Lme and swa Lae, thd]lh ns en

porary 'nun Etions and { Niying llahrles in ihee*abr(hed .onedions 0Irtre }rusam.r t_oiiii(& belov, p. nO Eadr lsitr &nbry pdr..shd exrlr.el! Misted sotas ind nthor btu^1

:

4t

--.'{"i

t:t''

.tz.l

: '

lit t r o ] g h u t ' d t r ( d h } ! d . i l . , i ( $ { l l ] " l d j .

l r r e r ree m i rhe roe ( ! i gsNlr rlre broad brds.onmoi r llD r4rh anrun

n r:l siniLd b thr:e lsei $ith the contempd;dlerhd niredpdtensGe.bdo{r.adi[e

0a flE r.or xid rt hre dufd les iE$ oyer

rdge orth.:oh behiid rh. ixirh?,ds 0de(ed

t.d r! Ro\em(nlc. vhorc.mlllons k {,.miNd m Tabb ri T[sshoNslli]r i|!r liomthe b.dr i:4tun detrioNd.rhde. jun N,Foupr rP definile r Feseir dd{ (.r,6 s ):id (o,,r! orrhr i.rrilt srrnrftl TLr hrn irr Mer rrorlr rLoq rj,rn {.) ind p.d' O,l(llJ

rl

;

sp r bul th. ceiem oDnot be diirflhhed anaron.iny Ahe. n sofr ed tishr, *1,i a smoorhF! tht s easity sorked Resitienr rnd c!_rehdy duuble whe. wr, it h6 bccn rheh\olrEma.rrforlros mikfs I F4t:id rirhrup ,o rc rFse i ,d I 0 r l eon lq r : ) . r imodem

soe\ rclstor rhln ih, {md n sbll sFfl roP ,veho jod ryou ' Jd l ] r t f , ' o l omoere th<

dj ;init shrinkre b.tro!.u red A 'mrrr meiloLl ! as probib !;sed rn

'.tred trdm rhe duiErjn ii rhe MendejHo!y

m8h tr $ ' rbre rorpr Fn m!Mc.srr a/ia4d,,r! 'uer,i re igrr,{ergj rd riush, hrh lre!n,n!e ro sprirenr]t. \/rtr0uah nor seier:x!an rnd€ $q uil hi:lndr dehtuFlj tr

mor. re.endy to nake paddtes ror rdeRheel\ed {eaneft. P't,r6 'id, now fai.t, rre bur

:1'\.:7

red eitensirelr by medievd r,|trnetr is hrdbd penshibLe Yet mther

rhe |reseii iieds rc ol asp.r, ,,r ,J iu,,raIn moden Fiai& n hd Leetr usad lor sabds, buiLn medield Englind il \6 !H 6{ aLly r.r,iLiiad

Law ol 1416 (,! ,'l, , ...1. The puDose or ihrs

lor nd{a arc{s add to lreen (be pnce or,rowsdoM, sin.e l*l the bundred-slrir|;s jire lelied .i

F ] e t h e 6 N { | l y f i f r ! P | a t e r ' n 1 4 6 1 5 .

roker $ho dained !tu Asp tinb{ be i[e benand lthti Tjmber, rh{eor h m.re Pdie :id

6 0 , d i E m o p s d i i l i i r d r i ! f u ' ( o :

is iot:p! sufi.ient, ior codreilento be midej^h (rFoNshilb) (r t.l! t.9

hlde ind on m.t kte r4tb .entury pat.ns mrofdoubreihi.\nes(Figs.123 9) The two pFcA

resh fa.es togdhe id sonedhes, i rhtn teilheredris tr sive 3 re\s D3sed ipF{ince rn the

tor embellishned Nerl!:ll.rdri some decocrior r,otr4erJ3r,1. one (Fi3 123)hA,nrm{\ertj.rl *noe. on.e piin(ed in bdlliint Ed. fh.p,@ed n:ed \A lermnrn Gentified by s.Dmar. Britsh ilu:eum) nlnch {s v.l kioLvtr

pnndoaLoLe orrhe Nblnerury othes hiye

(frs r2l :nd .B:!iids c$de (nor iihncrd),

I

rnidenij.:r,l.oyerfiomlpdren Themotitibex,.onssMt or tour r4cr pdets beseer pj6 orsdh. peids, vas :pp& ty nadc wiill x sirylepun hdrnp!dr rin,i m for4!eprnrhredpcs

bm,; o!d,! The third,omped tl@ert (Fa

or wxvredsed squres, btrr it is roo mrn rd dis.

fte mon &,nmon mees ot de.oftion s4 bysbkhine, bn sii.e ler ot rhe drreds h?!e su!nved tr is i.r.enain ho$ the se.ms motd h'velooked o4in:nv. it is p.$ibte rbd 3 sinplenmig.sbrh {A used bu. nore Drobabb 6d ir{A a type or bak*ii!.hing (Fig. 133), Ior ttusvodd h?!e Drodu.-ad a.ontinuous raitrer rhai {nrem .ft rne 'fhe $itch hotes .ie reety cir.

ric P6E ons, r d e'y naN G. Fis rljn,re drtE ed turod{'thd du qrcdir s

cur&r norn:rry .het m st,nri!. redansurai stjls;o rDr be rhre:d sould

" ' h?je &i,n! 5rlistrr

bc blr { trtd h}€ beei pulled npht r d dqre

il,e nexl - a lom oI semi or.deitaL serm comionr! used today b! hames make 6 ind saddle4(saran,otr 1936, ?73 4 ud nis 9.61) v:nosrmpre pfums $eE devned to ft inro rhe d!k.{trd shape ol the inrs: Enidl or honzonblllies (Fis:.123 30), enher singl) or:nrcssadp?rhap.oi!ehshrshiedb] rhreld!otronGsMr.oro!E, ro$+ Fg. jrTbr {d tori.€! oiIeaves {irhn arcaded ni.hes (Fjgs. 137c d)More .ohpl.ared sries oI nfth holes tFiss.137e-0 roy be in€ refrianr or rcry elabor;i."dessns, nov hcaoabG of reconsrrtlon.

\____ -))

sortucs or ibe 14, rflr bdrim r,iters resFdlrelt(!iss 139 40). ]\tr :ddiiiomL lald $I 'JkD

:. r ro aie ir hklrd oft{ri. srouid. rhe {aD! wie mrre rior siidepGcs ol plxin Ledher. 5ometimes biturded rt'he!frFis 110J xni {ere ind{i.h.d be$er

and a rlthlLr Fi ed roe.

been rry litlle rcom u.dq rhe roe *mps, vould

e\psed !o drmp on rhe unde^ide oI the soLe ?nd

!.r.r:l o(a!.'s. om llig 112), {hi.li h e!

ri:!e h.d ,, uflhclie n,irei o! rs r riid rcFir.

l l ir afflh * oi,!(oDr{eldrro. Tlre solesrr,e'isahr!eernrdeitumLry{sorrh.k.at .

togerber {iih, patr 0trhfads lfig r4L), ehirh

Il l

L ,

Sizesand wear patterns: social inferences

Fmhrer G$mbtagEs m ltuse A lhof &on

rblur 'rtr iri !( medifldl .hu6 and lni?nsThn dr,. d rlm !r ' ir, n Do., be n !.:{som! .oict0sions abod lhe nse of ro.rNer tn rheciiy hd, ro so'ne erenr, ?bout rhe physi.at dD.4&nnics oI $e poDddroD. TtE prernr *ud! n,fesetably, .orlined 10 &e .onseFed resisieredsboes. The unconsesed bulk araem€m *ould

dinoned jor m.urare

appmiiy be.ause liey bad stnik d diiteEri

.T:ble t9, vrncr ern dE toli tirsst smps

Ldt th,A mrnum oyeran bi31h of the shoe sores

Eqll hShlnsuesole.(Table lsr lD'heo-.dshoes $rh 'po'raines

, rhe ,podaine iis.lt redsouded and d'a &ehureneir hken ro a poi.totr or !s beyodd rhe estinr@d exrenity o( rheba roe Gee ibove pp ?9-31 3nd T:bre 3).Ntodern shoe stcs eDreseit lhe i,s,i,r,meAurenenr ot 'e shoe $ithin r]tr !,Der. ra$erL\d ihe teqrh or rtre sole ba sinc;ium dft

esFa:lly at rlre heel, meAlreme.t or itp soje iskely to prodtr.e rn onder. qrher rh,i in oyere$'mab .i lhe equfttent sne.'fhe pu@f or lbe .onvesion to modcnj

tudiry inierisl[h ed pd]t io ta.itiiaG ..mran

(Fsp.Ne) or, rortss:t *Gk wirh!* $tfi.

cdomer to sared a s&bte pajr by tn.r ?;de&r. Th4e is no re*on to suppose rhd rheyohened sPe.if. sDe $mdrds, ,id the ft:sneda.y ft.ords or rhe Loidon cordsaiE6LonDiny make io menhoi or {ch Nor, io jud.e

Irom neAuremenb b*e. .(oss rhe (orepd,*rn iid heel ol shors ir.,i S$?n t-mo rd TirL:ie, does it seen rhd shos kre 'mde ii;nnse or {idrh 1i!t4s: rhe $drh ot rhe shoenornr:lly la.ied in dned pmpoftion ro irs tensrh,a[boug[ s obsesed *ith ih? shoes trcm ]rngsrym (clde & cder19??,3ra) r aDDers itutbeNeenihe 12$adirre rsrh.entunei$e\uisrle(me qoglesirery 4ros.r.

simpleno5urtmenbaeunf0dliate]'o.r'a'.ug[ arronroton to ilie orisinrt size of an

been diiodld by rhe tons peaod ot buril]. blr irm?t :rso have sh4ik sin.e r..oy!ry, borh dunnged drer rhe pm.e$es ot cotr*nition. Snc!ft e n s. hr kno*n about i€ |olenrialchaqes n

rdNime h$ been nDde for rhis, bur shn k3gedoq beimed hA beei qriftiied ad c& n)some e$enr. be prednied: keezedned terhd

:ier trt tn, tunn:: !.dr nthr\ $

*rE.es soLleDl.dryiq - rhe otder method GidNatrredrdionorupto..t0pcr.c.i(pp. 133 Iand'fal,Le 22) To predu.e Table 19, rhererore,

oerhod used tor erh bddr Gee Trbre rl)lu remrins quii! inoo$ibLe ho!e!er. io

{.ouni ror atrr sbri,,k4r rhi.h m?! hav.onred6t aIonfmlioi. Ntren ihe objed $3ssbl buned J.lii rbofrron bes:n a cxpemeri nr1959, irNhi.hhebnnedin{ersoil:sene!oroakbiied lenh{ srips rhd.ourd b! tuboyed ntr

md 123 ycm Gee Rhodrs 1030, r0r-r. Thn

rap'dly d firn bul1hd the nte decres.s tbcrc:tui (l'e n;ps sh nk by ..7 @r .cd sler 1

.ed:ftr 16teas), pdhaps lmt xi.!ed re.dudion ol .10 p.rre.endr, ho{ev4, crot lin DneL.illurny h?s

'.!.h less dun4 burirr lban tter re.orcryG4n6thtt.tt Lot|t cto|t Nuttun, 2winrer 193617). : hypotbesis rhn seens 10 beiecenins rqepr:r trceohi(e od rhd rcrtd

the 6sres ilreadr adjNed for po$ ercrvd'ons brinkage n ri'uLd laad r. rlF ne\pedad m'tr|uson thd medieval shoes $eie litlle dirtereii li

Yer lr*clcr muclr rbe sh.s mry hrve sbrunkin /rrrlt rms, tr pems dMt thctr /dd'y stes

ciden€l thd the three Larsen tfoups sl'oM nTable 19 (froo 'E.yirds cArla . sMi L e mdTne Lane) shre a disinbuio0 of stes thd tu {

Lo$rr d ddli ste\ I

mon popuh sizes or:drLr nei's:rd $orai s

male popuLrrion vem shoes rmsins lrom sDes ljro I l and me tentlrs ol rh. xdurl remxre !h.rid shoes m.FDg lrom 4 to 3 (Clarks Ltd 1972,rits 12 131. Fisures fron' moden Im.e m

nejirrednilhstesri 9 a.d. 60 @r.efi of aduLr

Tabreaux 1 5: rJorn,tion rrom chra s) honds).,\I these ftiisti.s, b.rr, imdrc,ir iDd moden.*ourd thus be comhreit in iididlidt . di(ere..eor2or3srosbeiwe.dirr oireandfemitepeaks.

ff this E so, it na] be possibte to Foeed turili!.;.dt,usehisronslddrtoslibEiemediev,l

ducred by clarks Ltd oyerrho9a{r,o redre?rs

Ete orone sre eve.t20 re,s or so (iitormarionfrom NeiL M:cD..lrd)20rh .enknes 5tes 2-7

wrdrh or rhe lod h?s inneakd in proporiotr. soF Lvere no$ immon in

s,s B r itr 1929 (Chrk Lrd 1972 Tabte D,{itr' addtrioit rliese figues rom hle vdonanEislrd nrrespo btudy h ihose imm nediev,l Loidon as {ded in TabLe 19. and represent

ejLmate :s :ny ol d'. *fula ol lhl nediev,popuraloi dd or r o.igiiit ste ol lhe shoes

sd4, ol omboRdle evidence. ir is ioposrbre toordrook the infom{io. eom rhe late lstied!3rd-.edun Roman rods and drirn s.tlenatrsd s,rbuiq, zusnnnel ad Kreiner retdburs(Table l9r ,ftd cmrm,i'v ludennge t974.FiA. rr; li$res.onyened h modem stes byM.Rhodrs ,id ;djunad L! r0 per .eni ror presumedsoLqed.dsing). nhe.e r yery simirrr nnge or

Ar'housh ii ma! be posibre ro idedi! die!,trral r:4qe or sr6 befirDs nedGaL men 3nd

dlldratr s n !e Gee [?loN) mrkes n mu.h moredirfi.uh r0 ddeloiDe rlherhd .n uril idlal shoerusNohby?mino r rsomrn ' th i sm iumrns ,

rhe sida la.ed shoe !?s

$,n s rikre sh.e $trs rrie otren \ om by somendd'iLdreiGeexbore. D. r7) burihesroup:m

ddr nies {h,.h.m retromblr ba de ifi?d is

.--

=-:

=

. l 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 l r 1 2 ' 3 . 1 2 3 4 v 5 6 7 O

r t i 1 r , t a r 1 ) \ r t 1 r 1 t :

!ur dcspir. r pr)rtleFs oriire@f EtiotrdE:e

'rrr roe! 0r (be 210 sbo.s iro'n rrrird!

2e Frred or rh. 65 ton Tng Lrie lTibte t9).

ed,rnd 13ln &dGer m.! ir*lJ, it.onobor

\ur i, e I'n.hidrei 'ydp baiig dereLoped In ihe

i!r.; orhdr, hoNers, $eE to{ r.uc shors

l h &en : shoes rl'ougl' tro{ f:Jaied \ri.h i

bery..i.hrrdie.:sre:3id ! afrrrle l2)a0d:o

Elen so ib! soanai dr lb! dimFlire sotedpdt.rs ,..:\rie5 rn r'8 mm (nLghty equiva

$r mn Lo.s(.rjirdr.i sr! rr PnGs\u.h,j5

110 / ?14 Dn Lol'g. noddl]d!Ll \k '), Nlri.h

rrur the nmpLe (lun :.1'.gsttud &(ros Nth tompLete sol.t is io.

iv.ar panems and deldmitics ofrbe fccr'fhe poibirlr' dr reint4 rhour the lrefLrh otL..d.r \ oelierr ojiul?ron ltuo rhe *!ar pd

B,i!,ri\ CAle :rsem

!r -fh!se, tr sbrurd be nored,3eFnlf bN: th.

d r.st b judge bl

:durlt, 'ylFru the:dJt nr dirnblrjd^ orrr

nuddd m,Lle ud lemLe peaks. ? miro6 rh.

rlrbLe 12) soo?r hd06 codd b. b.rd ar ha{

\eri, id rM' n r .il! anoit lhe shoe5 ol lbe

rhildren s shoer ft: siliLiihr ..r,potr.d oi

lidlrd. (fur|o ns rd rh. oodem .lr dren sizer I -3 l'f ,Leio moDly nrd. todrr & or dtrLdrer s sne 5 and6r rlildtn ?!ed ?bour L nortis (cLllls.Lrd1972 ['g ]4) Ih,i d,nrpx^q oj aLod { iz.s

iul.n ndrul sho.: see simih r qrm tr

Doin' {ber. h jnur b} nmlln, {rn'nr, d.

rinire5 rhe ll[.lih.od or c'oe; b.Ds h:ndeddoNn Ni(hin rie ruoiLl

Moden Child Snes

th! shocs rouM srt\equently hr€ beei !u{6oenrr' sen prtfdtd to provid. der,ted eld.nc.. ar tsrn oi pdhologicl$iditions; bui ir

vef sorn not odLl t! ?dtr s bur b! luhs.tritdie0. voden reseu.h $8cens dd i.nr of rb.dnordcr Nhi.h rr..om! .di.e:bte oit! m oLd or

j!!r s nor runy roi,rcd betor rhe rge lJ ibonr

q rhod caNiig ohilus dr$ohturt (cta*s Ltd

The Get * c.frrlei teyns, mide up ot nmrsndr mNis rrds $hrli :fa subrded 10 hfl$rmds For di]s reEon Diryr.:.oisiDFnee

\ /

f-- -l

1 i ^ r[ i i ] ,

fi l . l i r )

t 4

= 2

Modem adtrll snes

Ii iohil Nrfins ih. drn p.d t ((h ihe

ide, inrbe stDdu.orrli.rre.{dresjoliris

lnsre of ?boui 5 dsstues b rhe diFdion or q:lkmg d tbe besin trc.l ach nep (fl]l. 1.13r. Fr.rL

'r!rsln vpiel! rros rr. n.iab6t heads rlreLi!r| d rhe r0d: :.d.mu:desrrltrcrLildiilhe roor (sellpmpehilil

o i n t sn r re L r - I r h r ,o . - rd p e . ! i a ,he roI tde loes .d. llre Found, Thf !\]| is theN-.r @otrns lnrbb on Dur:/ sores (Fic. 141i

l.

, )

i 1

){

:-'tl

-,!r

s

5t4 dtut 4 ?.t tut h:: :tddt it.tu :

r ' 6 M l t i , g 4 ( ' I E ^ ] T e { ! E h L | i

l ] I i o a ! u n t n ' m o | j ! d F j l D l i i ] !

:,a:an utl,tr,r\ tr\ i i i tr,h,

lon is a sri in th. umo rbrort t!_,gs.25.50).In

ji{ep\ $ou|d ljtr'l nbLad ujdil.4ibL' esF.i

Oth{ delibei te nirs ii the ,mp f0d ib0omrl

is rb. butrion turJrr L?n ThE.od'riotr ofrl'eFd !,! (,',rr:i) o(trs sb.i 11i. iddrJ jr

.{p.rjojrl h rrL* .,rqr,rs r,,rirr se.i !r

vrD,4rmererenoy{r.urjDs'her (Fl! llri) The

onLr bliuse then lld ft iloropodrmt.lr

on the nier side oI uDri !,.h b rhd jnnrmed14 !is. !{e) \'ere

(mes imFiLlln , !{.,1r thtush I iirm oi6Qoflind\ rrerru n$rls) 'fhi! o,ry eilber

o(ur ndurary {i$ ace .r be the rcsun ot ftuiu,rpcd.d*ubb[( dihe r]e, tor exmple a!

joint irsLfnay bEd,e !i nled aid I svdLn*

rrqn rr,j\ uirjon, bemNe rh.! lnp I i.l l

l ie ini Dosir,oD ro.orspoM,rnh rhe rb !frbcFext to. (Fis 1J?]. Orlltr itlrrtrd eMftples

rvhrrh oroyLd* nsunddn d{r [o dri!'s rri

Onc rtrre n.n.Niitrs rrsuL\.Irr,e drnrd{r5I F i f i i , d d r r , . , . + d n k 4 r ] { 9 . / j , i n '

literaturein art andShoes

n feN uilikt|| rhd r\er rhe poo'a! oeillr

ro {af th!. shlri rt|po iltr nilt h ns trd soneIr !r nrs {.re Nom tlrdu{h (Fq rr0rr{'0e i{e!q,tr nsht go b?reri ur 0 LsiDr

m.dpfr ni0rF{rDr\ f. {ays+d The 13d,.}riuif Frendr po4 crnfuncdeLdis. r*ose

or i.ei, rook i i lDn

] rn \ r ' ' r ta t4are t tc \

clrlter hinE.Ur!\ i \ido{e $ithoLr sti!\,rs

tr L!!r 4 ltnt i,rtu tirtr4 ja

r$ Iadtu t l.rb. Bihk,exr xtnknn)

\trn rJlrre rrLrr.edL.! r.xilsip$ Eigh'd

,r,ilnri(a.,r r^r LLI !],:cLirrnd g?i \ii

I uinritr fnerims srrtr r!!*. Lo\r btuL.

r. ;diid on |r!

\ \ . . c f c i i t ' r r I d

o z.tron.r 1ia r98{, iiN. i\o.llriJ

{n!! Th. \trsn 11,^ :o \err s)o.: \irlr

r LLd .F r n r l L r z rh . . i t r r \ D r i dg . r j r Ln rhe

ri drs i,trsrir! tdrp o1rhr unp. n.u r|[

! rh. dtedim Gpe

o.trloirL .rF oi e.d.sianidl Lf*!5 lnriL

l{.1?, \hldedr,\rd$Lrlrrdrlo*id.139t)

h i n g J o r r b o n a N i , $ n

T , b l $ L & ! f h .

This! b..r \da rr

tu tr.ri b the oursid! or|l]! rree dd li..r.d orL u r k [ d d o l n r ] b r o r J 6 d ' f t r e ! d r l , r i i D ? r rcor. rx4 rdr. i! Jen.rr.d s tn$r rrJ r,r, ja(td ,nh 4i ttt:i i!t!!rnr') (.d skert

rLrrilsh rb! rrc! Lllunrrd A Nfined are

n .ut bd nrher n

:.d n s Fiirbr! m roiriden.. rhd br d rh. 'r$ii',\\

D s0 i) Theerisf

l- -:.1'- l - '

, - \

n!d r0ldn ri Li tr,nrii r33i). jhds Ni. of t]L rv!!p*s \ih Nhrr

ri,qJlh f,{i,, p,ilio\ tid. (.!mi.!h &

ir rlf d,JdL nln,r lr I

n { r d q , , l , n ! ! ! ( , L ! t : u L i , r , . i , i r e ! . r

i : r -'

-ta

i . .i

; ' , ,l

Ft ,

I1r..h^a\ hotu h,,s \ r nn: !i 0? ;,: l {.i n!r?r 11.,e dare

163 Nos 6:l-1). Thomron rc.on{tuded i +op

di.es fion LoDdon, but rsxin it f ftnher a'ooulaine nor eyen poiiad (Thornton ]e{i I !.8.! 'P.!r,iies

, sone elabonteh de.o.at.d.doswiverromcoleds (ThoDsr$0). bdredabbreonlyby$)le. Dor by mkxi-rhe

fhroDid?r y,ho .ompiled the ,rr,4r,,

.eil!ry spe.ijlftu! dtnbukd rh. fist rDreaFad !f some orhar equaur

'c4hov\ to@ir\t: tutr; ltrarv a4d(

6d. alttu trytnrnhb\4n @eh iad'

c|lhou|'h||ot||l!|dtu e trt 446 t &'rs Eh- rtu tu ,qrri4\ ll

'fhee*kritude{ith$hnh$lsddeissiven mme-

dErer! a.olses s$phror, especislty sin.e ii rhe$me )ads EngLmd Qs shake. 4 a sdrnsre.ureme df rhe Bla.k rearh Deademe a.d

in the cbronidors friid, iu( A ii Frace ti 1374

tueled by the feeling thardemon. presen.es sere ponoiiig s..teiy Nothns po'nbd nore surelv to $e Devtt hrdi*orkthe pourriet vrricb aI h:d beed denomced soofien by de crers lTuchhan 1979, 260).

sro$, on tbe othe' h,id, in his dh.usloi .t thecordw#en Han h Rrcad st.d *ard, traesn'e nrftdudion ol pouhjnet to 1332, $.tiry ihd

altt.! dtrdu46, ! tu tut :ia h. lttl alRih-dtu2 tek, h. be. b d, ass doqhbl'/ r^dots K;4 't h6) tr hq unrh tulLEkr ErrI i,lld tM !!tu6, n d b tltnr,€s uth rkq k4', t .rw t:ttt 4.t

,^noa oJ th. cLn,nr: lt E4b^1 trsB)

But siice ihe tarcrresardins the iyitra oI rikes io rhe knees urh.besorla.cs istnoscetui'Jyiditio'sceoLelo{), t n,y be rhd dre tr{;ad shoLld be

souce bll more tjkety, perh.ps rhar ii $s 3neducted sues, nade tn rhe knowledce rhd thenpon{ r ,d ru r l ed rao rKn to$ !h4$e

lri a hundred 6lles

whdever rhe pre.jsc dde ot rhe intodudm or'poLrrain4 , irch?eolosict :id hi*on.:r sources

ft .ois$enr r denoinrahng thd popllanry@$iblr rhe 1370s. Then

hret ro. an)oF or sober b{€s $th rn de rolnnd ad in the yees arohi ihe PeAaG'Revoh theie werendyofrhese. wini:n L:i!.l d, Ior innaa, us ierer more rh,i r Do;r.hanrry pne* itr rh! cir! oflondor Here he mun

"hose monAt.nA {ee

bekr!re. r]]rre + trdde..nbe prold!nr{s rbe .ompa.r' or se xnr chrd s neiingrr*d:ra e{ Ptourhna,r33rj, i590)r dd. even if h! did nor sriic rr,eDA sase himsetf he vould tro d.ubt h?!e agreed in.ond.rnDs rhe Fnn.isons in rbe toltowin!

Fe4x4 tu tu btkt4.tund b utlht!r( i1ttht!i{d&ntu k,bb,yr.,lj!{rtus

tanan, Itoq Phrttnu adt 24 3nr

'Ponra.cJ rhiayed su.h ioi.ne$, ind $.fthe bur or so much ddi.utc, rhd ir i5 otren diti.trLr

rhd drcy rrad kr be red to rG rnee tor *aj{) s ri

r.rod b srnrt 1312 jj236 nore 3) aDDdenrLf0 r r e r r ! f J i m 4

r6lrrierl! r7ib..enrury ari@dins. stow Gee?rroyc) ad aanden o614,23? 3). sto*sjyesDo

lr.ri.dtf arnb&t tus

the Eutosith Htbntfl,t evei rhough {h.rjo.p:r Gn (reproducd

rbole)tus inDsldlon oithesrhepE c. mtr lp

inrcrp.hriors. lr m:! be rhd hjs c.s 0r rhe

bdditilthctaudrnrrai be.o t.ned ir s.m\

'pouhriei Ircm di. sho4lhemselvcs tioi. dtbe shoes jn rbe pfAed.onedion a*.nd mDrerhai3-1mhes l?5-r00 mm) beroid rhe bq toeGee aboye -r:Lre

3). brt evai rht \!uld aopaf.

h$. ntr'oitn rhe 1,1d' cedury shoes poi edroes re commoi, il ior !ni!en3l butlhe rmemtud be srid lor rhe rryer renior .r !hi5 n!L.'Potrrdes hid pEsed our or fishjon r' 1100 rf

s..itr k, hrye beome poputar B! the middlc oflne I trh .enrufl ho*ocr. tr,.y asxin reruned ro

sumpluq'lccislaljol"}Fjedtopmlnbittheil

rnd (o .otr.irira rhe lniom.', d a lrft rlherrh. kiig ndralr rv, no* needed rhen supponInn, rhen i. t403 itHs.irFd rh{,r{,ktttn,ttth, sftkal. La Lsttlrrt,G,nk,tah

"tRd: h.n4 !1ra tdswt th L'"e1h at ru)/,./trs (3 rrir n. r r, the use oa .p.uhtneJ

rh.i. r$s. eyrn rhnlrbeny{A $irhdn{n sorhd r[ lnrdrnin{s rnd.obblon !nhin rhe c r! ofLoidf tr rs sufoundLqs l,ere io$iddcn ro

rite llin.eriu4 bn$er or afllu!d dienheE ot

nnpped - either inp,id brkre or larchctThjs imFssion r.ms

Gee aboy. T:Lre6andpo.23 9), butr.onra$s

raced sboer a is! p:ns oI holes. :id lrcnth.ed .nue{hoes wirh fi: paA 0r hoteslcroenoa yan lY?denq. pe6 .om.)

orhod ra.ed shoes is siniLxr kt FEs. s6 Tsirb& rcit 1975, t03

Abb 5 4 a). fhe frod .nd side hced shoes in $eLondon .on.diotr ex.ept $hore there is .oronuous radis hlve p?ired holes $hib .oujd [ecLofd b! rtrrhes (.t Frs. 5t); rhen tre feNcianpras \rh uneyen Dben ortz.e tDe5 ktF,s 53 withi6id, rbb.5 3) Fir.27 dded to rbeeurt r3rh .edu!-., doflf resebbtes ? lc$.e ur rurh shoe (r,t . Abb. s 2) boihueoto0e pie.e aiapirou.d' .otr{tudlon, v(h tii

By iie eady rrdj cedud, ho$6er r s ovsde-Lrced inkre boor lbd doDintu boih rhenbieolog.:l ^reotlases a.d rhe bra$es. InddrndLng exanpre of lsthced!ry too$r&r.!m o. rhebo$ot\icbohsc:ders (d 143rJn Nrargd!. cr eys {eac lo* inkie-booh wiilj trioobmd, embroidered decomioi i .onlnlousru.ng up dE srde rbrour+ sae4 pins othe.holeslFig 159) Di.eor Io. rhe de.raroi, the silte is1rr) sfrLLd to rhe \boes ircn Tng L:ie jnustr&d in Fjgs.69 70, rhe doruair-pe in soupst h 1tu dare. The bns 0r Thon* EokeihiD(d r,i60) ,trsr sreDhen s ctrmch, Nonrnh,:lso

{ddseehsrobeapatrof siiltu.kles (Fjq. 100:.l Fls 66J The sfred nvl.! is sifriLr.drho!8b the:ho.s orrhe bras, pod dding the

Finred and relred rhe Etun io frshto. ot ibePour,De ii rhe mid l5rh.e.turyxe[] rid s.b]€be o9?2, 32) $4e$ dd n

$as dthistime ibar b.orlripi (aded io b! .ut

rrP boor rtnfu predomi

oon unrrr the lrrrrnk r5th cenrur! sroups rrom'tus L:ie There rre .cnaiiry numbes or toNbooG a elen boo$ raehins lldr $?! bdveen

r . r l f D $ J d ! c h r d r r h q r c [ . d H e

rhe nnkle,id rhe knee, pnofto rhe t5th.ertury,bnt rbe iobr ,hsen.e of deiliiabte trrgmcft olhEh.r boo( ts norable, .ver fhenthefteq!er.,orreabe!rur n bkei inlo rcou.t. P.otuslrGroeihin-ve Warnige hA sussesred (pec.

.aydion m! be fr.o booc n !hi.h the vrv d

the boot lec $crc seprde Dieces. Ho*everL themdea,r fton ,Baymrds crd. , lnere ll,e.e

quaran, conrndrcb ns th.ory, ifte on rhh sire

Tter remains $eF$LbrL[t lrrd brod rear]E $rips {tu.h h:Fbeen ro* of re'sedheishten ankre.shes rhd oth.Nhe appear ro be.ofplete (.1 Fis 23 and dirusroi, p. r0), bur,ths isie, the absei.e .r ruu boo6 reroins

Pttens $oodetrf?*ened ro rhe rooi wnh redher cm${inps

becme ldu:ry i daDLe etemenl in lsrb .eni4Engrand Gee aboR. pp.91 101).Ni A onthacotrbeii nifteenlh{enluryirhnmtiotrs,su.brrhr reprodu.ad hek {!is. 161) or rhe ran '5paintiis br qi E .k celebDtins dF Aidol[i]m:ia:ce (iov D ih. \atjon,r c:rrerr London)

'vetues (./ F!q. 127), i $yte ihsent trcm ?ll rh.L,.don Foups or riis perjod The panens n rhevan Eyck D.inliry. dted 1,131, drady h:ve loigpikes, ailher be.ause tne Low coundesin.lciFred Engrand r its rcadoprroi or trris *yle inde rfth.enruryor, perh,ps, besuse in turope

po'JaineJ rfon the end oi rlre lrth cenrury

ex.ard,ons in baE rounded toas, ro fn.h rhebui sevenl in rbe

e$rbrished nusum 0f Loidon .onedion n,vbelons to rhe tihe of the piket reium io raror iiE.ehndiidier:!er450sor1460s. oiahA.iiI-ledher com@site sole lcuildhaLlMuseun 1s03,Fl lxivi?;.L ligs.139 40), b!! anorhq hasrhiised Eoden sole whi.h sho{s ,n ihprovenHtn rrre prain buradjoiil rourd d .Brynds cA eand Trig 1,.. (Fis. 133) ri !hd one se.hon ot ihesole E lapped oy{ the oth{ to .Bke dre joiirmorc sdenighr (;iid, Pl Ldri.s).

'flie hsue of natus B d iiing ngone,?nd.ould

inu*mions hd the pdren sho*i bv mren:lfh{hTo|ogic|sitA

i, rlre C rj d Londo' de!,ite er"F\" nudy.

ro dis.trs if the +oes de ,$ocided rvilh specii.d$ellngs Yet.ontmponrl inunntions seem to

diferen.es both n idus aid .ole. F.equently on

undecomied, uidyed ankh.shoes Yer ihe hishprcpotion ol shms $ith srcb de.onrior in thepreseit .oLledloi niks n nnllkelt thd mu.bsignilidnce shourd be rkched (o rhe prcsen.e orrrrese shoes ii rhe Loidon soups Manusnp6

simpleshp onsl'oes.utenheriior ju$beLo$ rheanlde. Giei lne l4rh{edrury re&tion ro rhepre$hpllous rlito ot rhe middte d?s it is vie

li Fis 43 {r ?n indicdio. of some natus. $ith

tefl A pan of uide.onted side-h.ed shoeseiovded in $e Lcm sble churh in Noraf anddftd ro rhe hte 12rh or edy r3th .enrq hav.been identiied b! S.lna (1977, lls) as the

sr,oes m vea" srfrihr o ihof show0 tn Figs.27 23 $hi.h, simDLr oi the b6G or sr]le ed

ensid{ed obFds of pdcurft *ds

Inm'ces ind inknionca !i!e !,me idea or {lhihe v erLth'er n'-.mbes.I so.ieiy scrc No,n.c 6NeLl r {hd tlE} sere payi4lor then shoes. lor

T! Robn h Fwt rNb.ttu at Fbbtr!, tt,r, tar al bh rtt b\d' ot 5& @td r/D: tl,hvEin, bP at dd ,n, j|| :rtrq: h4nth'fuxng':]6.nrnn1tlt'21ir|}'a!'

0310 r)i !rr@?r44 sri o83dj s-51

The shoes oithe .ommon peopt! do nor seem tohrc beei expensre r.nB ro nile. $lzmrrh$ed ,he ori.es lor pFcerolk l. Bnnd in 1364 rsdreepence ror nukiis a p.n ot booh i' theirentuety: $d n, i penny lor .utiis :id nvopence

wA rhe Drymenr Ior

uppe6 .nd a pen'y fof the soles , Nlh : tufherpenn! Ior hnDs 6rr2tun1923, ?s6). ri ihe r3rhadd l4rh.e uries rhe ayeDge pa.e or i rxn ot$oes, su.h A hrtbt be disribuied dinhb|y bythe kqq to rhe poor, seem! ro have been ?bouiilEpei.e or si\pen.e (yand{ 1931, 5-7) -rotrgdr equi$leni to a day\ wages lor I skjled

The Roy:r wdrobe rcolrG .onrai0 a numberor sho.n,nes, 4ch presm.bty ideDtifabte ro

prolde an ider ol the vaidion thd s:s posstble.A requisition br Ed{Id Ivn 1130 Io!lns.n.e,

ra Pttt nnd ad\\nt 6, 4 pan ri :t!4rtuut.drt !td6 hd( rd tid tn( | r: . hlt tiM lttu" lt stqltr L&t dd. lkt ! d 4.r!rn: /!' \j tatr iatlqk^rd b4 , ta^ ttr ,!nj d hrhur Hdtt. kt tur ut,^tbr{s rn4 at finujt .(.PesHenaa\ 1$ lj tt, fir,t tltdt, tntt ih. tun \jd ht a tw./ Raft$ ljb!n4 st ys:r hht ht 'rt k' ln EdRd.4 ald@ n& at I h rnQ b4 th||r Nn

Armon .efraiJy sone of rhef. such s itE\hoon ine botewJ (btr. no( the boob rea.hiisaboE the kiee) iid the ledher'pdyns , will hxve

brd rry sin d b ftems in rhe F6d one.-&( hrt othei\ - r p?d'cuh, rhe ![DD.is ard'doppes trre id so rcadity ientjfied rrn*odbnorDg rhd by lrre end oa$e r5th..ilury it *Apcsbk !o sodn .douLte sote. plesunzblri u | i . $ e r i ' o l w e l l e d s h o s a i J t h d A f u g h l

noad mh.B,toe.:t Asenb .ge

. L r ! . . i r i r o r t r l j l t r . h ! d b . i D r d e r e d , n r en!d! oI m.dioyal lodrlea lrca(ms n rhero{ns orDordfechr ind s fieflosenbonh ti th.riethcn&dsholhyGLdedrheemetlposorrhoes,

{are de.orated and b&l! {om Ntri dis.alded,{hLLe in th.larrt les iifluem to{n rhef {erepiinzndhe:d! r.m (0 Gotrbirz Dec..ond.)cdbiiz ii44F6lhe enis6 ofa e$ oir n!er. er 4 repreyrtiig ihe footwer or an

*e& tound ii sizes

dong $rhother shoes ii the rme sres $ith tbeq'iden rur otr \0 rhd rher .outd be eon 6

ftu:?d b\ the rinLr '?rajid\ (0. coubrz Fc.rhe 5ho* in rhe oresetri

medon ue lrear r Mh md di trp for ieNeat a lree pmpodbi erhrbn rps ol reDanespea:n! i0 the $hs Gee abor?. po 39 90,idTrbles ls 16) The d.$nprjoi gEn b! rhe

roe ,id heel Nih e\tu rhi.knssas ot ledh.r(crhlnglon & cuininsron 1973 Il) ac.ords$el $nh sho.s su.r is rhese Nhirhhzreiepan

r! E Rrel! po$Lbh \hen eraniiinq shoes !odifieEniid. be.rlei tho* wom r\ romei andthose$onbrmenexceprbrsne Geedstusbn,bove, rip r03 5). \romen are genrt,lt! shoryn Dontmpon( rllunniois either {nh rhen so*isvmp{err !o'enig 'her f€rof \nh nse! rhe

ds.abes ihe \Iiie ol Brh in ?r. cdn tln

h7 t6u wtr tt I," {hht tt t.Fd!/eb!qtt q'd 4'N.ltd ulth hd Nt!

Trre cn4enrer's r! e itr The illiller s Tat. trb.eshoes radd

" ,,t i s. ]ir led. sked 1912,

rt sems lkely rhd in the 12i[ aid r31h.entu..s*ont!dkDruebooGperb:FtheIngbakle shoes Iound so fr.qu.iiL! t, &:lrieotosmldeFsilsorrhFpe.od.rn1200,liinsJohnorder.dIour pin: olbooh for lii\ !jfe, oDe olvlnch sA tob. rjnetrn\ {ey tu le|utw t 4itl btta4u,,ai lenin iqotunl u,., b0ltrl,4u, desi:: Lit,nb Rrtk,2loha cd H;idr1344,9)'id x FEn.h {nrr oI simird dre ${es thd iieDuns t Ilontmaftrc *.r. illdrlel bods lined wirbI'tr is i coicesion io lne $Ld (sind 13,12,19)rmood 0979 32) r,,is n,ssened dBr $.oen

huMlo.s rhd lbis *as ind..d {r The rrns ofLadrde,Pole(.1330),fo..irDDre srro{slons'pour,nnei peekre I' on uidar her dres (ch{or106r. PL 7), rr r!!r, r]€ J,r,rrtems ot wlrtrs Ldrhem oun h:ve d{rlioLGd *hcn oie I'd rrm.?s. a irLLr.Dsih sktd 6 {en. T[e vrlprurefrom rhe hht oi liin.h! d! ta Torr td 1310)$bdi shos mr! rhe radyt bs r.(ndi4 trd)

der h{ skds (F,g. 162). js lrpi.itot rotry ot

soures, tr be.on!! o{$$q h look d lvidei.e

Irom the corii.ed, {.h s the ilusdion ro.Febdaq i L^ r,i: RihA H'xfls t! t?a,, Dt../, r,4 Hetr i shephedes Lvfmjng hcr tccr

anu.s and feei d:d ii frodenh shao.d Lti.k(pre$mibl! und!.d) r,kts.*oes her mte,idlcndeQmpanions*erbuskDs. rb.;ili.rr21h.

dcnlcar i. each orh.r (coiiin 1976 r.is t 1)Do.umeikrysourc\ ndimrhd yotrtrs.hild.

wo|elbemdsoefr!4ageas$ee.h:eo|ogi.zl!o& rmpry Gee:bove, Do 101 s) 'fhe hoNebold a(ounE 0rPdn.e H.nn,30r or Ed{ard t.listthesh@s induding ino!. vJn d rhe nDs s

fienryhimf Lr torhf \ nerEreanor, atrdror$enn!!n lohn or Bflrxny 0ohn{om rq22_3

dennbld as r44r (odtups used herc as agen{,r reh nth.r dm srllin.dt tor beto{rbe .ikre \ho* ) r'd exceDr for th. iifonidi(rlnn some races N4e Frchased sepmrel| iorEt anot s \rne: tL n ttr dmt i trt nttta|:brtu Atidv. j

run or* rro .edu..s hr!!. rn t473 I, sns rtri sldoor {r seila h Lbf brs shoa.:ke!

.tr b n\ ka) attd4t.44 rae. rft 4 dl

The Lq. N er!tshocs rhr ry{e pmhasodon a lqqre o(nri ror jun ror .hirdrc. ,4

sortrom Lrdy El?r[4h ! 6rn lltrr& remsJa- IerinoD Lolh r rhe f:rrN daiedievaffootrv{r :d io di! r{djr $rh \rrit.h .hildEr gro$our or i,oas ArchreoLogLcat e!,ydio.s hrrelErdcd d,irdri ! sLoes ii .r, sidenbk nutr$lArre abore. lable t9

Dven vbe. tu :ll.ru.ces '.:de ro. th.dtrbnionuNedbytrhlth nte ornrd mo'lalii) rhere m ma.! oo*ibte Dn.timl

rbout btr.ehor csp..:lty ;r the suDnei: thd

undesad ledh( thi.r, w,uld EieL), suF.il otrmh;edosiulsitA dan Lrarfr Dcrs &nm.) dnr

d'drti to rhe lounger; or s'q, I Ihat rhe dj]]d

?ere rt&frty hsucd Nirh shoe! alld. orhine. ti

{ere ftcor.rd. no de.orred shoes tud hrdty0y pdre's Hol$.r cunirtun ard tuciro965 23) r)d;ey. dui clltd.en drd $eaf r,ireisIndthesingLedild.s|,enjntb.p:sdl&[cc

M,nnrn rlsfdions ad L'55es dier.onodrtidy ririe ristshi or $n subr.r. r r ,.

b:crNred clytrr.htds

poprLtjrn E r Nli.l!. l oneol e i!* titetjk.

rlth c.itu{ i-(trelt Psltor rFi! 163r d.f1'B:yrtrdr C?nk (Figs 53 1) x mebs ltket!rd sere {6 n p. ( oldrtsiq rhe.hid s l

abs(f oI sho.s ri rhe rmltd \tes rirtr ex

i[ nn tjons ol d'iuren $eai4 rdrinei s..rBh iDdid. ilil .hildren $ef !\.mDrd r0'. rhe

!drrbcage.f reD(oNrlr. td!NeeE:ard1935)Pr$uiubry, \hen MoNr.ler qrorc r{67 rbol5 lea.ing 'poura;e! ,, .r/ , r,ri' (l..anh.llr335. r.r31). be ,ss kter.ins ro older rhtdrei or

laslrioN r.?.rred ovr rrk D6t hudrei lcaisllw rrcen btr.d oi 4idei.3 fio oinm;ipc

q&nunit! to.dorm ihis sdli rirb suftrtnrdd rb |em| ' } . Lo f ] c f i nds ' i 61no tbc . rqrooLed The e!iden..0fitr sho$ Ln rbe rr*enisrcdioi !{e{s dui hin, orib. d{i!!ms

nrurd bc inldi6ed, or

nandad foollttu otrh.l,re t4rh Fdrrt bur E

tro, Iednrc ir trrru!.ft and Ie ih{.t0..u4d! orcnooked b! cmtun. r,jnl;?is o(f

exiensiycLy id i_ond ff

I " h J p . L m d o m , . $ e - m q " 1 ! e p r l - r h ;d r \ ' haner i, 5lor li lhLon n.ir rhe i'snrins seems ro rrie teen ab:idoied herc soir

rhe dose ddjns sequ.ft.s l]f rhe Londor vrer

mg! rl hieh booG nrM jn nunurn$s ir robltr

relred upor lrr I(Fr.y {nh $hjth thcy {eie{om.,nd upo, rhosenbo 'yo.e rhem. The Erpeo.d{trrd,kr*mcd rlie&rkdmisnl;e

srsren ihotd be dE dse, md this i!:iD rrnigsb : t k m e i s n r o l l l t r d J F o f t h e { € * A n d l h l

tonr Tli.o\e oiolnor.sla.jrlrtcs E$

$ or nshr rre p

Glossary

IreD or rodtrer Nhid erlends to jtr{ itrk rhe:.Le

Lti ' jAlnlLi] l i iglelo.s

orF*r,i". rde rdi -dc i;"

leruLrrrDF (rrq r'

oddlrrrmirlr,r ntLd qlmLLf bma,q fe

I-q,s uoo! nn!. nonDll! ol lerlpr, ilraadad rbrollh @irs ot hokN ert'jshj rir rbriirg

sri0 or srher nirhed onto th.llesh sde ol rlp lpper Ir nrtn!1heidie hehores (., !iF.100, r03)

d mu.d ttu tr$. rxoodEibrr.{

Tb. p:{ .r rre uDo{ Nhi.h N pulledI rt'.ulirer,rrre !re 'rhe *?m

nru?lr! lnd|des a md, drousri.o! iiq;tr[Lr b!fort rbe ]3th.cnrury

d !, dlnote. tnrnslrr spht thons{h.h is irn.ad.d iltroush a pa; !r hi,re\ lltrhnenry.Iifi h{e E ? gen.r:r rem ior ri it

.. ur!.s ! rorm ol open sidrlrroh i sdpooledty Polishongin, or.pk| .

Eitoi'aly trrrdf 0, ded be sdled Nith nor or han ro hold rlrltth.eiiury ad in rhe mtddre oI

hiriroir rh. ffD on eilher sjde or

hc.r. bur n rhe,edie Pnod mor

zDd the sor. r '.ake rhe hnin!.mdgin moE {denishiR€i.for.€,eDr .ord cord k.ured by Liidii( nit.ht,{L

prot.dLotr. ror ertrhrre on Lnenings ?nd ?lors th. yrnp ituod (FLs

r,r!/, Joh nade br bunin! rogelen Fr:id dojBthem q(h m edse/aesh seaD lFie.7?).o,jn,tu.d au tnr nadeb\ aE

rh srai res[ s!rh6 (FLg 7ii)Itan ofr0o$?d$hi.h does mt exief.derpan olsr'oe usurrrr rrihi.k{ledher rhm rhe upper. r!mo*Ntrnbly hxde rir h rhe sn Ln sid. do{n{3rd:

lred con(rudom lq.y ). Usuall!

.a,r,,i,k r mph d! sl! ped pj!.e {, I rhjlr hdher iit.hed by ioo!rumel *irchtru ro dE mLn sol! tFt. u3). somctim.s kno{n A :cLrmp solc, whi.hisFn,05 r, te pretened, sin.e ii dp 15rh .eniurysu.h soles o.ctrsiotuLllr seem 10 hrv. b.e. an onsii:lrrt1.r rhe shoe

,(.r.{dttu'g Sd.hing dorc lnh a !ryr. rhiear rhrrr0trsrd5 h!r hdes rnd brk oF, !o rhd i tonrinuou:Er.i the roD surrec l!'s.133),irllrs-n dr4 arsled nil.hiq:rlusedrorpthria (fr! 75), rff rjningrqo oe.n cdae h edF (!.is 30)o ls imp l ' r oe j i r o ie th . .dg |

srhd hs,?n\ rlk nrsr, sjdo

tre q, , r ;!ide lFrlr ir :,r)

\r ' l ' '1,! *i;!!d'u\u!r J{Ed i

rrrt rr{r c.rhr p.ni.l orrhe r

L n / , , ' l x s . s o f l l ] ! \ i i ! | \ | n ''ht trr,.{ b j0itr ,rF dJPr

orroNnd0i (q.r I is rl dr

Lrst ol lrsures ano concoroance

[x..pirorr]|krsrrds*N.inris 1r6 :]l1heillunnrd !ho$ m nlii rcun c\ iri ioi. Ar

thd ihrcc ii.l.r oa iirirFdion a.e requned r.Ldf,tit a Frei.Ljed rhe 5ir.,r, (TL ?4. Blrl

r\ppo ix 11, thea I r d r I y I t a,t 6 t,t tt t t t.n\ qr/r e \nt keis)

erh !(.) Tr'e d d e: ! p e n d e d t o. a b. tu l jr. icfry.a\!. rrad,ier qhr.h rb. tayei roieini0s$n .Ljed is thotrgbt to h?f. hen deDosiredr\r,e i\r) l hDse nod Nr,nh $rrt rrbnft.d

rlr Nooi or Ledher are

mr or '! turrr Funher inrormrrlr rbld rhe

l[dvrds 1936). Nhtrh s peiai!(]! n{.d Ln

i63rl rrli Pqod vlr r .1tr5

r l f t i ! 44 ) Pen t r rn r? . !N ;

ss r lr$l is8). 0l

5hf!,a,r Brcy rirll5i3r P!d( \ru 3,

ieprar !! ru l5fl i4i). trr'rrurr r.

l r l i r u ) r f , ( rq i r . 1 !0Adul ; +i( L:lA.: J4dt@ EIG 3, 4&jl

rel(s0) o( \'aknut nr oe. urM!n\ irktr$4. Brr r, I616t 1r?0t

Iric i? liorr 1118.)

l1rllori) lvr..tror ni . rlo

lrulcos) s;!rtorr rr . r2r0

aeeplo, srr $6)i*r) rrde{ilir!.

s! z l4!t or3)

tr ^di' s h!. Brc r ft271 (|sr) Peo.i

Jr ( fs r ' BrCu l red

l i . . r i&d EJC! t i$ r c r f t ) .Pdodtx ,

tr6n (]r),\riretro^rfir r.[D

sH ir lr&l cs) lrde6o^t nJ . rr0.

!@pk4' sH i,li&lc16). $nenffrrlt.

if sL\ s c!$

rq ( ' f ! ! 1e 12011( r$e ) . r r l e .18c a r sH z 1316 l

r5 J.ft rrd!{b ldr tutru^ +fs \,-; ris:

s { .d re f r : . { . ! c 2 l ! 11 (3 r t i r ) . ( i n

lr:01 (3303) i'd

ntr ilri :5h!+r!'r B. 2 erlt c[3),do.r

2 rrslr36e3) dod-rj)rdotr L3o i

l!$l i3rir) d!.( nd.

mtr tsc7:J]jo l3jqt odDi!

4 D ror \[h r] p' !c 2 Fn (rr!r)

l!31 1.r0!D d.[ntu 13ii rro

sorqli Fs6Lr a I BC 2 soli3i0).6{

f chLdt rh Bc z ffiJ orn). d{( trl

{lcc| olj l,dlhd sors: d[ Bc 2 Ii5]

.io Adi' snp! sde:Qne lp*ca[ Bc2t33t

ar ^ddfs $oe !m.i !rehbLa nLr Bc 2 tzl

!c 2 ptol (4Ge). d{k.orslrucrN r3! 50.

$4prsnr r.fu.;Q[ Bc2lLstc$t drr

Lc s[ DC 2 ttg

BC z tat (r!!) do*

t l l t i 3 ! i ) G i ! ! pc1 r . . r3 {

2@i !e0) bur tu Lhe rse se fj! m.

n[. s\r.l & lr]!n {c0) .r@

l34 t i * rn c@4cr i , r l i t

a t r5 r iF ro ) c ro@cr5 . r j& .

!xH. 4ir I rLr ndi rn pb rL ir [r6t

uo{i .dr TL a a68l

Ladr6 i (! rh u rb j\rA & cu2l

t3FJ i r23 ) . . r41 r5 r l r 4 l

' tL 7! 275) <!i)

a et5l cmt

!i TL ru ],75]

]k4e[rq ht lrbnd.6hnas 4t Niftb{l.

BC 2 n i011372) ,&*nd . r3? i L io- r , cu thgFkn .he ld ( { t r I $4 ' s le l {

i r r . xd r r i ! ! { i r r ' i r ( r ! i r .TLaLr [ l ( 16 :3 ) .

L: radrio JLr \ n(tu rr-r 13631(r60t

, P o u r 6 e $ e . { ! t r i i g j i ! f u u , 6 e l e B c

2 nsl ir66e). dotkfir, [?5-!00

. I nd .qn s\\r3t tr, c!0).1 !00

,: tsadrsd6rq6@rpu rLr lrin lrur),

!; Lair'hrbr {irlL i^pr TL r 13$ (3ar),

6 bdlndL,-{tr6,q!h siv:3i trDlislD

\ i n r u ] s { ( D . ] { o h , ' R s n * . t p y o g h t .

& r P i h , - l i r r r I I r . r | ] 6 8 1 1 : r I )

t301t G36s). mdiire rnh rfun

d BG M Ltoftt l$r9) Peni Jri. rl.

i: vl4 Bc ', 33]

I ri4 3c 2 rsl

.! osd{\ .i r Bc 7r lre ca3i) d!*fir

1 r a n r t s c j r Bc7179€$r ) .M& i r r l

Dr: '4rieh h thldd{tu z(nolia{

sp s! n lrel (sr)

,r Pn€n sirDdJurl (3i) 160 !00.3rR 33 l15ut ct

l3il cu6t e& M,

l30l rror) d,!k iit

D P ' i e r 31vB$ lo l l s ) . r . 6 ! ! ! !

( 5s ) i Bc 2 l5 t imor ) & cde ) & r

ri R(i e rTmrt (si) Pend r!,. h€

gi sqns l3o1t G32) @d]re12ftrru^

sHt4 rlsrtcor r;'qionr J , rll

1: !ar![d]e^tu($G s< Fiq ,i

'. aui(ds cri Bc rr rrur(I33), d* ni

. ! : vao r cdJ rLa e75 l i [ ! ) . c r cupc rs

r: vi D crr Ec ? l33l (r55;) iel 0i

B .2 r i e t c$3 ) & r l

130

115{e{penddsbdi0trhdby'a[d4g

Pz6. S4ri&e. TL 71 E53l €m6), C@e

P,na &rizu. rL 7r Basl {2M), crcut

Bc ?2 lrsl G2a), dd hf[, 13?+l,r0o.Tr 74 Ela (1O9), CGs mr, ..rs0,BIyB $ t10€t (s), 1360 uno.TL 7r 806l (w), C@ c[, ,13s0.aqrB B I@l {25$), 136.-140.BWB $ eet €0r), BG1{0o.

Prb. rL 74 t?r16t (979), crdp e2, arz?o.Ped. swa e Pr0rt (168), Fe.1{3n.

Prtu. rL 71 ts3t o2r3), c@ c1s, ar4o.TsiElfideoFtdishehionDl*lll j4'

@rdsdbyI'(dmeiq'Fde*@'

shA dnn Palkns

l5tD.deonBLRqJM6zA'flI'

$6 Dd non bnh of',oln otErde. wsdsb

o l fub lnB fumhe 's r '

Me&acaci@h'I{na,,Lym'N.fu.se Delr f64 ees of rrdEts cokF. st Jorn 3

s'.plq!cnnd,Nwid'ftr Deei sho"iisDdc6 hd,pootaimJ. BL Msjut

Add Ms 4130 fl96b. (D.M rdh Mnh! 1932,

165 PLoof rhsOrrdktrdotr, lh@tusd!bdmof

D.ii3e b lhe @€d by [,/& 'ttdr&'.

h^4HdEbedbJds'scdeo6s'35'

APPENDIX I

The excavations

ri{il,rjundddlun ^ r'tri r.srDtion or

ir ernDie tlui tlk. ro ,.L '!L\ L" rtrLr

lidnld rYat.hriB b.ieJ.

lDr.'i otr i,{!d ilre 5te or ?rd' s'.trp t'

rs.rnt.d dd:b r .br$G (.oms pdrerf 0 Lsii '

summinsad belo{, bur lor i, Ldarih d'. r.ad{ s

::-_:Jf'\r

p@uyep@dnoMefu,(m'l.tmt@'

oHt

t2

_ .

rereiied ro vince 0935). Funher L.Jorhation:boui de siles rhensetves is ?latable f rtre DLrrlrl{tid c'aial,4. (Mrseum or lo|doi, r$6] orn the sepa*e publiilrions as lsred Tne siterode. appendcd ii !. renrheses :aer .he tun mne{ eeh n., r r*d in th. ,ai o/ a@zr ,d

t 6 otd Bdilq/12-6 Lunsak Hi , Ec1, t932(LH 7{rl|r 32; Fis. l6s 1)

sevei;L sedions {ere .r ridss rhe ciiy dtr.hd Ltrdl{e, shosing r ro liale been E.ut svenlrnes in llre Late $xor nd nedle!?l peiods. The,6 reenered shoes. r€ether N h a very l:rse

or rhe drrhes, *hich h?d ?pparendy beei hveuedwlrh nbbnh h a s;ste opeotion .ert?tntv b!1340, shen 2 ro$ oIhouses *A btriLr onrop,,id

*A L* $hei treshry nified

Ba)tui, Auy, akb, vnbno srx!, Ec!,

The ex.avarioi .onmonl! knovn as Bamadscaire .olercd an enonous aea over rm n{ide to ine sodh oi upper ,fb.mes stie-4ovebscr& chefyrgft,162 3&Fig 60) Thtsn .oisldenbLf to the !oud, ol the onginat B?v.mrds cx{re, shi.h vas buitl bv wini:n r .Dd,ppeen0y deiroyed in the hte r3th.eitury. Nolft.e ol thI or aiy olher royal srtrdure *€sround. The pai.ip, su.iying reniins vere ofr{rh.enturrd?c: on lbe $e$, asens orlmLer

dock leading 10 a publi Mre4de and, oi rheeAr. the {:n5 or.m ddioinms p reprEd\.

1931 Gee belos) $"s sub{anti:lly rtblih in thel5$ centu!-, aM i*li be.de kio{n ton thrhme oiwdds 6 .Brynrds &sde.

The rootrlef de{ribed ti this volunc wA arlfouid ii lhe li.inity or rhe tlrh-.enruq varercteiilet.nd may be divLded i.to hyo sroups(i) A sm:rL group or 4t reeieed shoes w3s

round n dunps deposited d rhe iine s,hsn lneinlei rsell NG .onnnded Tlis is dded bvporery and jerons Fob:Lr! 10 the $dl

(r) a lery k4e group (4r7 resi*eied sboes andr2 pdtens) *A round aong dE enomousquatiles otrubbjsh \lnnh {ere used to rtillthe dock b Dreprnrion Ior lne southwd

pot.ry, lnree coins lourretoA atrd seEnlpirsam s.ulenin sugge* $:r llh {m donc inrhe b$ q!.ner ot thc l,!it' lrdury Tre presmdioi of redheNork $A beser herc n,f

oi deporG in th€ do.k and rhe Dresei.e ofex.eptomlly hrl]e quanriries orpurelr orsani.mdenar. Differert p:ns ot rhe litLiis Nereeianined ii ditferent *,!s, bui id rhose ecs{r,i.h ser mo* neti.uLorny ersvdedpedaPs A mucb * h:[ $e tokl r is tikelrthit very .edr/ all rhe shoes on4n:lly Dre.

Rntmd: cnthlcit aJ r,rdo, Ba$ srlhot,r]tkt ThdDcs shat Ec1, t93t tB\D 31: F)!.

I1-urlon erposed seyer:t su.tesile hmber

A !e4 .m , r i s ; ! p d i treanered shoes and 5 pdreis Ms tound jn hre4derosited rlhen rheHGtonftl and do.umei kd somes sr spes thellns *?s Drcbab|v bedreo 14,3 trd !h2-3 TtiE 1,,t, Urrtt Thrrs s*x, Ec1. 1974

Tbe er.rdion eiteided oy* a ver- larce maor..430{mrdrereredammd* ;N;aorEvelients (cl cl5) nnging rrofr rhe nrd 13rhIo the nd lsth.edunes| bebj]qs a $lies .'as.ciaied buirdinss (MiLn! & r{itne 1932) Four

n€d dtrhps rhar {de pai o( ihs tou nain n4e

(') Ille edie* Foup. .sso.iated dh rhe C2lc3revelmenb .onhins jrn 17 registared

!"red qu(e exrmtre\, hd lalqe qu,ntiries

3ithe.he drnps wee.onposed ot soil Nhnh.onuhed tev tedher obieds or rhd th. coidLlons otpresrudlo. rere so poor rhar reN

nen6 *ere erecred soon arrer..1270.(ii) The ardup Aso.i:rad with the se..id main

rev4menr (c7) is sihtady snau and @on!praenrd 16 rerinered stra) In rhe absence oI d.ndichronolosi:l eiden.. atrd .l

-

-

nt.mnll! drhble objcds a iid.oI..1310

. sr o|er{$

(jn Tlt [NdhsrnDsbyhrrhebe*preser-.d.

forunaaxdked 'rn plil ibr\ tr er!r rdrerrrloirr! lJ'he Fe.edlis d'ns ? iob oi

dmosrlrflrerr$.onr.rd jcrotrs:trd.oiir

l 6Jfiasfi r, rcz J9r6(uLK i6r Fig 165 5)

r ! d p i l 5 r f 3 i n N i ^ d n , " i o r r h r q l h o r r ( " h b l r r e

ds \r Lk sreernsen(Rosk1ms * s.ho[eld ]9i3)Theonry6idsd$mbed iih s\oruncr.xeroup

otrr (rtsl) hcdded br p.rtfl t rr,e *.o.d

Ptrtit ctb^nq L..lt, LVpt rh,t^ sttxj.

11r Lbrook nrouih nerrhenedle\ii srerirduilubrt rlrrloll)ow*te. r di! n!er b,ik. Drorl

dunp5 behind ihe rr[e.]Qs re.o\ekd in rLqge

rhe Dddre or(he 1{rh ftntr[ (..13J0 6o.Su, Ltn{ tilttr 1h,Dr\

l smrLl codrclled evrvdlo. erorsed i Lrl!

1,000 sq 0. dunD{

ri) Ih. .xdiei.onsis6 ofru! lile 'tan.r.d

the *me depor 6?r$rfkii: 4enLnbn

(rr Tli. s.rord soe (r0 'tFi.'td sho.t crnl

rhen Nse od l,rr re.rrnr The shoes

L setul o kmN I rllt honqenery on(jnrr\

iron lnrh'se (l2ii1 r. Lrt.) ?nd seremL

riry or ThoDA Be.kd\ nny oD (iI70) brng tu i',,,rs tdr q,r,, .oi,vrr,

l r )The th ;d g 'p i ! i s i i i * r l { . i L06 .ag i ! .t.Ed shos) rnd ..me tom red.mdon

been dded [r da'drodroiologv ro r:ra orrder. F,!jd;Lg i rdrglL &,rtlr !^i 4?4

1

( rrt JitriL snir tr br tu lt, L{en r1rr9

D d e | ] ! . i d t h d . : r ! \ $ f e \ l n p l { a

sf.: I i,r[r: r'!,xh i ]rP rr Laise

riit |h. rbrd grotrli i:.ia 1)r'he mon mponin

'tr...ertsif er i r2errtArrnotrif 1r$.

L i ' T l l | i e { g n l p l 9 F e i j l e d J ] . . n u n .

E C ] , t 9 3 2 . 8 1 C

E\.arroi ordnns 550 so n shov.d rrnr il,e

rrnr! $nh th. buidiry ii x \rdetoded di!

NE fiurbfltrlr freor trrr\ Th{.atr.f h.d

dln!(r(d [e l2th.nd L3rb.rrun6. lur thenc d orosre$ so'..iirtrs ytrr.d iotrronhirt

J uirennrfr ii(r rhe rlub ot ! Borotrih r^d

r.!f.r.d 11\lniofund. rb.rior! llnrNnhi

lqli,r rhet vnr p.o.LL rerned md se.D

drld.d ,.rsr,rr i^h (ou souFit Ti,r !traj.n (Penoi v|) run 13 fegrft.ed

nr!\. Foblrrt! ddcs to . nai dr,r titehPr reidm{hron.L.$ I's+drDlhdrbreeInob{s nlD dr ss..nred relerme.r {.r

brd:dr! rl rhe midrht. l2ihcPdrn(iir Tha:etond smup (r.riod!nl !Di*5'fr

krgm..rary ,\ dre uf. ns5tssoggenedbythe 6ndDs.ri( n otHenq n {1130 9r rdb! tri. dlk orlhe roLLo$rg rcrerNd (q y J

(rr The rhtd srcnp, b.ordLy dd:blc b llr 6rnhiilrrf rhe L3tb Eru4...o ii0s. robl ot33

I sens ot tlrce

lnh jl5.onnrudion (Penods f,\, x, xr) Adde oi. 1210 .r bc proposed ror rh! brjldjDsol rhe revetn'en rseil ,id tor the pnmirydcposirs (Penqjs x, xJ; dendrc.hmmlosy

iinLe^ md this seems.onsntent nth a.oii

issueorJohn (120i 11j) A.oin of Heq- Ill0223 a3), holger, sires r slighdy larerdde 1t the deposibollcnodxl, p.obably in

(iv)1h. 6ml gr.trp {16 rsi$ered shoen

.ro$ Fnns Flt a tfl,rr &s 4!d of

or vri.li rriere we 94 examples in rhe

During subsequld {ork br buitdtn! .onrndonrfter rhe fomarerallioi hid been.ompLeredmds lEn0 l ! l ]m i l ed

aM g.o!05 ot findsr.isienl .hronoroF.dry $eft srnsld ,i s"! m

* devribe d 'tr rhis volu'ne (pp 93 100), bn lne

\iere re.ov*ed $hen Nndq s?s ilieadr hr

c,!a- Iate, nhrtQ/q, Ltu-1hd ^stt{t,lcl ?r7JlCLIS i3; Fjg. 165.10)

Dxftlation in 6frce. sm:I dispeised beatH14rh en.lry rimber

.cvdneft a,d. behiid them,lhe lounddions otrhe hr ]4th.€ tr,,a cu$om lonse (TdronBroNn r9.4 rgit The sboes haF be.n publsbed lreiously Uons lgis) and iosdher $nhnon or the oth{ 6.ds, cane rrom red.bitioidu,nps aso.iard hili!ieletmenr ont! one

res{ered shoes Nhi.h

ro .ome rrom depcns (croDps c11c2) $hich{er. .oi&hp.nry rlnh a relelme.t dded by

APPE\DIX II

Conser-vation

Tmning hee ?rrof. p

l f t r q D l l k o i 3 ] t r + i .

pros.ri some ii l l i. ririir$ ad fic v Lhileb!s, r.in d dr;r! bL,'i , orh{s maf li:fe

aos.nnirn ( mide m(ed,rin rr! di. s.s

'lible:t) som. pi.c.s

{ . l I i J L | t i o n o l r r e . o m f t e n d e d h ' n g i . i ' l e;odiu' oli 'dplil i l l pb.d. (.0fl) mcpsar.r

brg rrur \irh onLf . smrr inrounr ot er { ind no

(r5ii{Jt!Le:ssD(e Free,ln{dtr5 ndipo{r

rLs.bnr irrod s rsendh.objedr rorcd {.iIL6n:Pne.elI'xdutnnybedailc.dllmt

tu.snG oI dni@ ii 1,,methois shcr, re& r fl.rLh e. nrcns ard noi

!:rir ind finishes 1.hcrolo,yiq rido^ ra8 coisidertd nh.r ev rd

thev m:ke {udr rnd hrndhir ou.h eiier d

ind rrl 'elbd llF !\iyrled !r {A :5 \henbuacd or \* enh{ $lollen or sltruikei s;e:

!fl! 'he5e dlmensions as dGEl\ r oosibL.

Dhntrises ba.khs

dyes and iitrsr,A sj\e dr(ere efieds ot bolh

rt$Lr D a slde nige ofr0 0E mcLtrdLtrsbls&

ror{ ire. 5h?0. .o10tr rid ile bm .lso i.r

The m€dlods cbos.o iTi])le,I)

(L) sr,/0i 14,{ (Redor r97J)

sunft rlDnrD (i..tone or rl.ohol) {hi.h M!

coisDiig The;ili nlirrtoud?! \Hs snaltbri

too rqS0 freeTe-d ng rs ritrrAiryLv trld.

12) F{u. d4,,! rDayid 1$rr n:6.D re31)ThLis? ge repro.es. hhAbeaiiisrDde^.usLf n manr rabon.nA i. ltu rin 12 lem lts

h rrso pu6 njnjmrlnnitrotrdeLdr obirdi. Trirts sho$.d drr rhe

dunos sollenr dnis rlabLe 22) li rhis rdhodthe ledh {s ' i u . t r : i dpLEd ; ja \& !um, |h ]5au$s i[e ne aomed 10 subtime , rhd is, the{dd n rtdorad 'iihoui goi.e ttuough a L([dphAe The iiiliiLeoit.r odrar ro' treez. dryLnq

ndhod sin.e 1933 rl'e vuseun o{Loidon h6

L'rher reated b! rtmoul orv&r itoie un{ LLbe nth.,rifsid lbrr':id rheieDx! ijn be

slriir,ge rr0 ro.1930 idrsirg {A:ririli.d ro

\hie:pntr(RedorleTn ].hl5ksrLt.d 0lieiLbLe

\ : l h . 1 d f t i n { n i I h p l A ' j | J d J r t

sc l i . r , r s i

n P i j ] h ' ' i D ] F j t D } d l , 3 l : q ' { n D ' ! ! r j ridDlnril ind rj,drr ,:j jDh rrr;.l]i i

r " L r q i ' o r L l n e

rrsze Dr ed -rA*bm Dred

12%

Bibliography

s.i

BrAir, J, d ar, r97 Owdng., k aMnB^ca,I l, rsdt Lit kwtid EEM

BMs, J, 1399 Dtr Pameibser a cskrs.sia Die Pon'if,dsdei !!d Mi@o, z'ad"iatucra d.E 8t,1o,2eL3a

t d r 7 t u t u .

cAxoE|'w')614fu;M@MieR|ibifl:b|lsteiatt Et4ttu, od f. i1h'hNbtu t!'.Eat,

cmNd, M (€o, 1969-30

EwtiMldNrnea'

x i4 \ I ,wM- fu ,

cu6bD, re12 Et .dtM cMs L6 h tuMw cMiittu,6!e, tuitud

csr+oN, M, D63 cddrzu ol d:F ,l,',gJ

cMN, M P, le76 .ar,rMla6, Loiddicosc4 J, DF NrDrcdb, M, & Cflmrs, N,

l 3 a ? M d n v t r e l h w t u d t u t :

1em EahdtNr ol tebh aed @tu,2 eit'

F rceadq i4 |e4 l ' dd tbztyd, Mtw l./8, 3r, rB4

cfu^.bE4M:d',fu,a/ dB b tQ dd alrq ,4M Mtu4,3 ena.2

Etrbickl,q der scrur,mde h 9500 Jaini, ,t

196sfuboei4ibnMifuHb,ru&udAbbitusen, zrd;, ,it Mriorqi' d$

ctutqwolth.d di.,qlLtuaMt yr6 ktu cdidr'n MeM N.B.Ddsbad$ drneG in 2 .dr r9$)

Hrifl,rD(d),1st'4dtt @d, htar,,, 1^d6

BRR'S, J, 1937 ',Tr'js*, Irfbr ud sdr*nq

r^Ybr, F s (d), 1a E!@ n E*bnN ,3

Kftri4nlh{|cje|uitrrjdderbua, ii J A rric Bry, Eenddreidludg draet in de Ah4 h Middt b4i r , B a t u M d . R i j k t i t u t u h datudtlodb boc. Md.tu, 11, n2-r6

E8$LD, J, r9Sr iM;se? tu' a /&t

J@ms, H,1922 3atE.q,saa.t wtdt, Btn J&r Rtttu Ib,1,

roNB, J, reh Med ha$.r, i,, Tdroi Btuw

reLry, F M, 6! scm B!, R, le31 I enriturol

(d6eRD,cLGd) ,1919M.6 @ ta,hd6,2tu

,rs7r l.+rstu, A tu@ ol Lo'dd

hrr^M' R, & MA]rrEm, w, 1970 33 I/e,!rry,1

1s40Mq1iful@d@

)4Lsn,dra4,i|tfuh] r ' d \ ' a h ' P l | . | | , I

Nli t h (,ut lt coeai.^ n r, cilt li

Eti4bh lt fqr qtu nlttar: 4 u\r ,1i Etoi

E \ a ! ^ a , ; d B l l | ' . p h R 1 f u , 4 1 4 4 4 1 |

rdk i ^ r (d / .116 I x rJ. !tu \ik sr*r

Rtrs{". J r*e Jisr I

r,.ttnr ,6tn$ Ith. rttuh

s!ts.rrr' J !fi sa

tet fb uDd r&:,r cqlt).i'Kw.

sra$ q/l,r ruu r: !r5 r3r! $!sri,n. J, rs, I !,4ri

hbl:l||t4jtrL|ll!\i ' jn,|r|1|d11,|1!r' ri 5h{r u ,rhl. : d^ ke! J R Prirr.

s r h . ' | . l F 3 l . } ' I l 4 { ' i @ 4 ' , & r h r | 6 ' l

D i o l q & J 1 B { ! i r

rtdt{ru zaltrrd ^tilr4.4 \vrtu\ zyr -

vNcE,Ac '1$5Thesqsamd jedFe 'o f

naw,l,1w En'tih4bt d|g.d a979) rlte.dryke k.hniqa b tu|bgtd tdt*tu'

Sho*a Pattt s

wB@r, L E, & OaR, J, rsB idild Bnb!'

Y^R{000, D, r97S tdnt.ntorc, s ed, Lo'doi

Summaries

R6sumE

5 . s o ] ! L t r r j ] . i e n . n l d . l l J f l ' o g i i .

r50 L: pLlprli eirr..n.: Nu ! cr

rr,i..r,rrirtdlirr rr, Jidolf,r rofl ur a

lar r. q! trnarnr . rrnF. r{ ^ I

oranr\.e ce.ii.rs rmr.t d. d|rns{ daN ..nitns rr .s nrLlr de

rn.s. rir L$ dii.niita:d.: p

Ure des plus importates.omlu ns dtrdedier.h.pite, Crl$yuid,,s

illu$fttions de mmu{nGm,iditiv x, ie sdd Fs roujouG un pide sr t.qrl d ped mnprd o e quicoiceme res .hausures mddiivres. Parfoh, come pa exemple das tc osde h node des b.uh poinhs a h 6n dcdh6orogiqu.s ct brsbriqres do tes utunmrions .on.odent ms t. ptus

sur h .ontinent et cn crudc Biebsne, roi Fd fri. que des modes d-A.hausurcs senbl,bbs Jarrteni ftp?Ddues da: lrmope dtr iofd.o!e$. Lamle.ti.D londmieme e{ $s d:t

coi*irue ue des prus impotunre\ ..nedlons

Toures reschisarsd€.riresdz.s.evolune sod au nus6e de Londres..i dres peuven( itre eEmies sf dem.nde €.nre.

zusammeluassung

{uden kiir[.h beinahe 1500 Schub. und Lb.n.huhe zus der Zen vonungeEltr 1100 1450 leluiden Die freisten hgei io schichtn. die zurLedgesimutrg a Nordde der Thlultdlchte, {dsetomrlioseie L4enq hd die Funde ru$*oidenfu.h pl

D* e6t Kapilel. S.rrr.Z,d,,?r An:Enb{uu, u, Ilaa-u,1 e\t\e tmls dae eig datiene, breite Eidfihdis ii die le6.hiedeied AnedBkher w kein verglenhbues NiaiSchuhe in GroBblihnniei lorhanden (T?iel l) Der se$mte Zeihum htmbnelt n seben Phapn m. F{eirs uiserahr 5oJrven nr die die jeveilisenModete der ren bes.hrieben itrden. Die am be*en erh:uenen Beispiele sind

ihre Gruppe abgebildd, d* Re* ci Ln T,belei

DN u{eite xapltel, s.rilrtu.r,, rrl s.t!r&tu', satr shh fli denwe $ofien auseinander: dem l-ed{, dem ;uebl dfl s.lrnanen undRiehmeneidei, dem Moos ,um Au$t?f6eren. Konshktionsmelhoden und dieHaupden dd N:il e siid nii debllliwddei sii.keElen Lo.homente trnd Ccrienngetr gezetl. Seit der Mttede3 1,!. Jdlhhdeds *lrden s.huhe ii Nla*trprodu]|oi unter vaN-endunseiief rel.tiv kreinen Auzm von shdr

I m driten K:pneL Ur^rrlrir, nird gerej31, dajl in r 2 J,hnimJen, weitrr{oda kmei. rn rrdhen 15. Jatuhunded

vude eine gai, neue An S.huh mt einer zusmme4esetlei Lede(ohh

ijb.Hhuhesehi lordhi, sie Nurder [be, den St.iimrreo rL5 ortutr sddden

Dm riere K4)ikr. c,&n od ?'q.rrtrt, e.i(h Rthvhliise,zeigl.nidgli.h iJ, die sen&a, oasiMl.n s.huhgrdBei

leszu$enen, dxll dle arr'rrn crdrleu lEuennilen uitesd'i.den wden

Iucffdemeb-ies si.h, d?ium iie N{irft des 15 J:Irhmdens eine besoidereIn S$uh fir l{LeinkLidrt e

"rkrLtla$en auf Deloffijefliser von Fiillen, !'sEEntiinduosder sojls, TehE.d.r.in{ads eca.btete Zehei $}ljeile..

lm dd {nhtignen S.hlu$olgenngen ir\ leurei Kaotch. Sr,,,r ,truni !,tt Lit hn ist, daB figulrclF

musknpdlu{ndoiei, dre !:drtioFLreFseH :ls Quelen mitelrllerLirher I(1sind in Bezus alr Schrbz$s

BeGpieLrre J{ Mode dd Latrg.trSdl:hrlMdcns. drter hingegei Kun(ler no.h \LdeidrFteulen, die im (idi.hr d raba, Latrse $crholt vtrei \ eqLei.ha d( Fmde

' " l " r p J T " ' n u o o r i .da( :ihih.he S.hrhmoden sich iLer srz Nord*!s Etrropa rusdebnretr, sodardie Loidon* cole.iion nt ihr.n genaoen Daten md l|ren Erh:ltungvushid:i cnc der repriisenhriv*en und bede aid$ei Samnrluqen enclrei

Ale bief b.nhriebeneD S.hohe $erdend kiime. n&h *hnftLicher nimeld