A Nepali will usually not say “No”.

Nepalese are very polite and are inspired by the motto “Atithi Devo Vaba” or “Guests are gods”. And who would dare say no to the gods. Jokes aside, don’t expect something to happen just because somebody has said so. They might just have been ‘kind’. Understand this and act accordingly.

Everybody is one time in Nepal, give or take half an hour.

Just don’t get mad over it.

How much more time to Place X? will inevitably result in timings that are way less than what it will actually take.

Do not take issue at it as it mostly results from good intentions. It could either be that the one you put the question to can walk much faster or simply doesn’t want to demoralize you with a 3hr estimate when a polite “15 minute” could send you running off all upbeat.

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Dress modestly?

Yes you have heard this a zillion times but it is perhaps one of the most important tidbits about Nepal, well at least in the rural areas. Dressing modestly shows cultural sensitivity and you will hence receive warmer treatment, everything else being equal that is.

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Nepalese hate India.

But love Indian music, food, goods, cars, movies, TV series, actresses and actors. Just don’t call a Nepali, Indian or say how similar Nepal is to India.

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Everybody is related to everybody else in Nepal.

That is why even when two people who have just met hit it off with Dai (Elder Brother) and Bhai (Younger Brother) dynamics. Also popular are Aama (Mother), Buwa (Father) Didi (Elder Sister), Bahini (Younger Sister), Baaje (Grandfather), Bajai (Grandmother), Mama (Maternal Uncle) and also more recently Uncle and Aunty. Feel free to join the one big happy family. Just don’t say Swasni or Budi (wife).

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Public Display of Affection will garner a lot of Public Display of Attention.

While the younger generation are getting more comfortable with this mode of affection you will raise a few eyebrows and some cameras if you indulge in such activities.

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The world is my urinal.

During a trek it is okay to pee in the open and it applies equally to the fairer sex too. Wearing a long skirt kinda comes in handy for this purpose. Just make sure you are a good distance from any kind of water source.

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Travel Expectations- I feel like Indiana Jones, going on a trek in Nepal. This will be the ultimate wilderness.

Such expectations would have been correct in the more popular regions of Everest and Annapurna about 50 years ago and is still true in a lot of less popular treks.

Reality- Starbucks, Seven Eleven, Margarita, Sex on the Beach are all available.

It has been more than half a century since commercial trekking started in Nepal. During this period Nepal has made a transition from a forbidden and enchanted Shangri La to a hashish haven for hippies to a budget destination for backpackers to now an upcoming mid-range destination. A lot of facilities has come up and even in the once remote hinterlands of Everest there is internet connectivity and chilled beer.http://nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/trekking-in-Nepal-turns-50,2658

Travel Expectations-It will kind of be like a picnic on the beach but with the beautiful mountain views.

Most first timers wish to see the mountains they have been seeing in travel magazines and social media. Very few realize that it takes a certain amount of effort to get up there. And the effort required is proportionate to the altitude. Certain degree of mental calmness, physical fitness will help, but above everything else an open and accepting mind will do wonders.

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Reality- Why am I breathless all the time??

Air pressure goes down with altitude. That means the amount of oxygen available at a higher altitude is much less than what is available at sea level. To put it in perspective at about 5,000 meters there is about half the oxygen than at sea level. Hence the breathlessness and increased labor at high altitudes. Add to it the fact that the Himalayas is not only the highest but also the steepest mountain range on earth. This is a vacation that is not bought, this is a vacation that is earned.http://honeyguideapps.com/blog/trekking/trekking-nepal-0

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Travel Expectations-I am going to try all sorts of local delicacies.

For such a small country, Nepal has an incredible variety of ethnic groups. And more ethnic groups mean a varied menu. The Newars of the Kathmandu Valley make amazing delicacies from buffalo while Brahmins are great at dairy products. Higher up potato, yak and barley figure prominently in the menu. The local brews can also be somewhat of a dare.

Reality- I think I have been to all restrooms in this country.

Delhi Belly. Montezuma’s Revenge. Kathmandu Quickstep!!About two-thirds of all visitors coming into Nepal face some sort of stomach upsets. While most of such upsets will usually pass in a few days as a lot of well meaning people will tell you, it is equally likely that your runs will last weeks. Be well informed:http://ciwec-clinic.com/travelers-diarrhea/

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Travel Expectations- I will meet a lot of people dressed in traditional clothing and steeped in ‘authentic’ local culture.

Yes there are still a lot of areas that have seen little cultural infiltration from abroad and generally the older generation still hold on to their roots.

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Reality- Priests zoom past you in dirt bikes putting many a dirt bike champions to shame.

While Nepal is still backward in many respects and overall the country is a work in progress, the amount of foreign exposure in Nepal is considerable. This is due in large part to an open media and the fact that about 10 percent of the population of Nepal work overseas. People, is Nepal’s biggest export.http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/may/24/qatar-denies-nepalese-world-cup-workers-leave-after-earthquakes

Murphy’s Law- Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.

Travel by its very nature is unpredictable and the only way to take care of this is to have an open mind. This is especially important in Nepal as the whole country is a work in progress. While you battle hard to follow the exact itinerary that you originally had, it might turn out that there isn’t much you can do about the unpredictable Himalaya weather or a landslide that blocks off the road or for that matter a political strike. You will perhaps see some wisdom in the fatalistic Nepali catch line, “K Garne?” or “Nothing can be done”.

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It is a eat where you stay deal at the lodges.

While it sounds weird to most first time visitors, this practice is the norm in the trekking regions. Most lodges give out their rooms for a paltry sum and make up the difference from the food and drinks. If you dine someplace else it might turn out that the lodge owner will charge you a rather hefty sum for the accommodation. No such restrictions exist in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

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Usually your guide will choose the lodges for you. If you wish to choose lodges to your own liking, make this clear beforehand.

The reason for this weird arrangement is that both large trekking companies and guides have arrangements with select lodges, whereby lodge owners get a steady business and companies and guides are guaranteed rooms and discounts.

How fit does one need to be in order to trek in Nepal? How should one prepare?

Nepal has treks of varied levels of difficulty and most reasonably fit people can accomplish the treks. As for preparing for a trek while a good cardio regimen would help a lot, the most important exercise perhaps is- squat.

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Squats

Yes most toilets in Nepal are little more than a hole in the ground. Attempting bowel motions in such a posture will test muscles that you probably haven’t used since you were a toddler. Good luck and God Bless!!

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Kathmandu- Gear and Medicine Shopping

Please go to http://honeyguideapps.com/blog/pre-departure/infographic-gear-checklist-trekking-nepal for a list. If you want a more detailed treatment, may we refer you to one of our apps, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.honeyguide.abc . Perhaps, the only thing to remember is that harem pants and flip-flops were not created for the mountains. And mountain weather can be unpredictable and unforgiving. Remember 10.14.2014?? Respect the mountains, it is no folklore than there are demons up there.

Kathmandu- Permits Required

TIMS Permit (USD 20 for Independent Trekkers, USD 10 for Organized Group Trekkers) and ACAP Permit (NPR 2000 approx. USD 20). Make sure to take your passport and four passport size pictures. Both can be obtained at Nepal Tourism Board, Bhrikuti Mandap, Tel: +977-1-4256909, Website: http://welcomenepal.com/

Logistics- Weather

January and February are the coldest months in Nepal. Weather is generally clear but westerly disturbances will bring in a couple of bouts of snow and rainfall.See http://oiswww.eumetsat.org/IPPS/html/latestImages/EUMETSAT_MTP_IR115Color-southernAsia.jpg for latest satellite imagery.See http://www.mountain-forecast.com/maps/India for more maps. Accuweather is generally good too.

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Logistics- Telecommunication

There are two major telecom operators in Nepal: the semi-government Nepal Telecom Corporation and the privately owned Ncell. While there are some Ncell towers in the circuit it is Nepal Telecom which is more preferred. NTC has got nice coverages throughout the circuit except for in the Thorung-la and the surrounding high places before the pass. There you might need a satellite phone or use landlines available in the lodges.

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Place Mode of Transport

Location Time Cost*

Kathmandu-Besisahar Local Bus Kalanki Bus Stop Daily/6 AM – 10 Am

$7 – 9

Kathmandu-Besisahar Bus/Minibus/Jeep

Syndicated Rentals

Hire at Convenience

$200/140/160

Kathmandu-Humde Flight Tribhuvan Airport

Once A Week $88

Besisahar-Chyamche Jeep Syndicated Rentals

Hire at Convenience

$120

Jomsom-Pokhara Flight Jomsom Airport Early Morning/Daily

$111

Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu

Local Bus Local Bus Stop Hire at Convenience

$12.00

Jomsom-Tatopani Local Bus Local Bus Stop Daily/Starts at 6 AM

$ 4.50

Tatopani-Beni Local Bus Local Bus Stop Daily/Starts at 6 AM

$ 4.70

Pokhara-Kathmandu Flight Pokhara Airport Daily $ 147

Disclaimer: Prices are subject to change in view of the on-going national fuel crisis.

Safety- Beetroot Juice

One sign of successful acclimatization to altitude is that the blood vessels are able to deliver enough oxygen throughout the body. But normal blood vessel function depends on the body's ability to naturally produce a compound called nitric oxide. Drinking nitrate-rich beet juice helps improve blood vessel function at altitude by giving the body alternative building blocks to make nitric oxide.http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/10/151012083808.htm

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Safety- HRA talk

The HRA has come a long way from its humble beginnings in 1973 to a fully equipped and efficiently run organization. The one thing that hasn’t changed is its mission to reduce casualties in the Nepal Himalayan. Go say Hi during their daily 3 pm lectures given by volunteer doctors. More than the facilities, the volunteers who man the post have got to be the biggest asset of the HRA. They come from all around the world to help the HRA and trekkers during the high season in Manang. (Sep-Dec; Mar-May).

Safety- Sunburn

At 5,000 meters above sea level the level of UV radiation goes up by about 70 percent. Also consider that 90 percent of UV can penetrate light cloud cover. Don’t skip on the sunscreen regimen: Half an hour before exposure in the morning and one again at lunch. SPF 30+ with UVA and UVB protection. Sun Hat.http://www.who.int/uv/uv_and_health/en/

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Safety- Snow Blindness

Snow and UV rays are a very bad combination and will take its toll. Make sure you wear sunglasses at high altitudes, even when it is cloudy. If you lost one because you didn’t buy a strap for it consider using your bag strap or yak hair to improvise. If that don’t work out either smear black paint like in the picture above.

Caravan- Eric Valli

Post Earthquake Information- Miyamoto Report, July 2015

All Green!!!

Post Earthquake Information- HoneyGuide Annapurna Circuit Trek, August 2015

While no experts at post-earthquake geo-hazard assessment, we too found very little damage during our August 2015 Annapurna Circuit Trek.

Tourist Flow Data for Annapurna Circuit from August to mid-November

While the numbers are much lower than usual, they are still healthy. Compared to 2013 data which are, Aug: 498, Sept: 2,522, Oct: 5,742 and November: 3,117. And these people enjoyed less crowded trails and much better hospitality.

But is it really safe?

Trekking by its very nature is a risky activity and is never safe. The thing is there are no increased risk due to the earthquake in the Annapurna Circuit. However, always be prepared and alert. Read up on the Annapurna Blizzard 10.14.2014.

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With the road, is the Annapurna Circuit dead?

It sure has lost part of its charm, but there are a lot of ways to out do the road. ACAP is working on creating a New Annapurna Trekking Trail and some sections are already operational. Here is a link to a document: http://www.nepal-dia.de/Trekking_the_Annapurna_Circuit_with_the_new_NATT_trails_111017.pdfBuy the updated the information if you like the book.Also we will show ways to avoid the road and make the most out of the trek. Also there are reports of some guides discouraging these alternate trails, as they involve extra effort.

The Red and White main Trail Markers

This sign is your best friends to avoid the road. Also great for reassurance.

Blue and White Secondary Trail Marker

These will be useful for the side trips you will make.

Besishahar

This place will remind you of all the things that you want to get away from. Hop off the bus and off you go!!

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Siurung- Homestay

Stay off the road and also off the red and white trail if you wish to visit this village. Call Nanda Ghale +977-9849661226; +977-9746013149 in advance will be helpful and will help the community prepare for your group.

Siurung- Homestay

They might also send somebody down to show you the way. However, note that the trail will involve extra up and down. On the flip side you will be fitter faster. Also the authentic hospitality and mountain views more than makes up for it.

Siurung- Homestay

This trail not only avoids the road but also the hydro electric project.

Syange- Plunge Pool

The homestay trail will bring you to this amazing plunge pool. Even though very few people use this trail, no skinny dipping please!

Syange- Himalaya Cliff Honey Bee

World’s largest honey bee. The honey is intoxicating and highly potent. Can cause failure of motor coordination. But is still very much sought after. It is very close to the plunge pool and locals from Syange extract honey from here if there are enough of active nests.

Syange- Honey Hunting

If you wish to see the honey hunting daredevilry it usually happens around May/June. The best person to call is Nar Bahadur Gurung +977-9856045309. He will be able to advise you on the dates set if there are any. However, a word of caution, such honey can be very intoxicating and proper caution has to be exercised before ingesting it. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_b2i_FvYPw

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Odar- Homestay Village

As you exit Dharapani look out for the sign above which directs you to a short but worthwhile detour to Odar Village. The views from a spot above the village is amazing and chances are you will see the national bird of Nepal, Himalaya Monal.

Chame- Recheck your gear checklist. Also stock up on candy bars.

Chame is the administrative center of Manang district. It is a good idea to see if you have anything missing here so you can buy stuffs here. Also prices of Snickers is directly proportional to the square of the altitude you are in. Hence, it is a good idea to stock up on candies here.

Chame- Take care of your banking transactions here.

One of the trekking advice is,: Carry half the stuffs you think you need and double the money. IN case you find yourself short, Chame is where you will see the last bank before Thorung Pass.

Chame- No Hot spring here

Also a lot of guidebooks that get updated every 5 year note that there is a natural hot spring at Chame. We went about looking for it and this is what we found. Simply don’t bother.

Dhikur Pokhari- Birch forest begins

Dhikur Pokhari is where you will start to see the dry forest of Himalaya inner valleys. This is also roughly the place where you will see your first Birch. While interesting in its own right, this tree is interesting because it signals that now you are entering the territory of an interesting animal.

Dhikur Pokhari- Musk Deer

Musk deer aka Sabre-toothed Deer, is a critically endangered deer seldom found far from birch forest. As the name suggests these guys have been the traditional source of musk, used in perfumes. This is the single most reason why these guys are now critically endangered. Musk sells for USD 45,000 per kilo which is a nifty 10,000 more than the price of gold.

Dhikur Pokhari- High Trail Vs. Low Road

This sign will dictate whether you have a great walk or will regret the path you took. Dhikur Pokhari is where the high trail to Manang forks to the right. Take it if you like to see mountains and wildlife up close. Also take it if you like old villages rather than new tourist settlements. Also take it if you want to be great shape for the Thorung La. Else just keep to the road and take the lower trail.Also a word of caution, a lot of guides will actively try to take you through the low route which takes up much less effort. Do not fall for it.

Humde- The Airport Town

A small town that has developed around the airport there also serves as the main spot for the lucrative Yarshagumba (Ophiocordyceps sinesis) trade. These caterpillar-fungus is much sought after in the Chinese market for its purported aphrodisiac and tonic properties. They sell for up to USD 76,000 per kilo for the largest pieces. In Nepal the ones from Dolpo command the highest price with the ones from Nar in Manang coming a close second.

Gyaru- Blue Sheep

You will be amazed at the number of Blue Sheep you see and also at how tame they are. AN interesting thing about Blue Sheep is that they are neither blue, nor are they really a sheep. But they are definitely the preferred quarry of the Snow Leopard.

Nawal- Ne Guru Cave

Nawal is one of the oldest villages you will pass by on the Manang side. Very few people know about the Ne Guru Cave an hour above the village. Apparently some Korean group came in once to explore the cave and after one hour of spelunking, came back up. They promised to be back with more gear and guts to fully explore the cave. If you want to explore this cave, make sure you bring a really powerful flash light and a really long rope. Local legend states that this cave is connected to the Gurusampo cave on the Mustang side.

Nawal- Himalayan Griffon

While you will most definitely see this vulture way before Nawal, it is a good place to look at it carefully. While the most common, there is another vulture that you might see during your trek and in order to tell one from another you need to look at this guy carefully.

Nawal- Lammergeier

Now look at this guy. This is a Lammergeier or Bearded Vulture. Its wingspan is up to 9 feet and it has the weird habit of dropping bones from carcass on rocks to get at the bone marrow. It is also said to have a weird habit of helping little goats fall off cliffs and more than once has this guy given me a close pass. Fact or myth, I do check my foothold when one of these guys approach.

Bhraka-Quieter Alternative to Manang

Rest Day are important. But Rest Days aren’t really rest days. They are better called Acclimatization Stop. Since Acclimatization Stop is something of a mouthful, Rest days are popular. They are days in which you sleep at the same altitude two nights in a row after a 1000m ascent. In the free day you stay active and climb higher to come back down to sleep at the same altitude. And Bhraka is amazing for that purpose. It is quiet, calm and quaint.

Bhraka-Sidetrips

It is also closer to two of the most popular sidetrips this side of Thorung La- Ice Lake and Milarepa Cave.

Bhraka- Hotel New Yak

If you do wish to stay here may we recommend the friendly New Yak.

Manang!!

Well Manang is the most popular spot for a rest day. With varied choices of accommodation, well stocked shops, HRA Clinic, movie theaters, bakeries, pool houses and pubs, it is sure a very happening place.

Manang- Tilicho Lake

It is also a good place to store your stuffs for a trip to Tilicho Lake. However, please note that it is not a sidetrip that can be done in a day. It will require you at least 3 additional days to visit the lake and come back to Manang. So plan accordingly if you wish to visit this gem. And again No it is not the highest lake in the world, but it comes pretty close.

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Manang- HRA Lectures

Boring as hell, but potentially life saving. These are also the guys you go to if you are not feeling well or need to be rescued. Also remember the regimen, Do not climb more than 500 meters in a day and take a rest day every third day or after 1000 meters worth of climb. Drink plenty of water and have proper clothing. Also Sea Buckthorn Juice you will find along the trail helps thin blood and Beetroot juice has recently been shown to aid in acclimatization.

Manang- Hotel Mountain Lake

Run by a quiet lodge owner who happens to be a photographer who has presented his work a few times in Europe. Also happens to be a citizen scientist who took the first picture of a Snow Leopard in Nepal and also discovered the Pallas’ Cat in Nepal. If you don’t ask, you would probably have no idea of his stature or his passion. Runs a lot of Camera Traps in the area.

Manang- Hotel Nilgiri Bakery

Have it!!!

Thorung Phedi

Most popular option as it is a good 300 meters lower than Thorung high Camp and there are very few people who do not feel the altitude here.

Thorung High Camp

Gets you to Thorung La and Muktinath faster. Much better views.

Thorung La 5416 meters

Sorry not the highest pass in the world, but no small feat either. Literally and figuratively the high point of the trek.

Muktinath/ Chumig Gyatsa

The more recent of the temples in the Muktinath premise, it was initiated by Queen Subarna Prabha in the 18th century. The Muktinath region is particularly famous for this pagoda styled Hindu cum Buddhist temple even though this is not the oldest temple in the vicinity. Both the Hindus and Buddhists pay homage to this temple; Hindus worship it as Vishnu and Buddhists worship it as Avalokitesvara.

Dolamebar gompa/ Jwala Mai

The temple of the miraculous fire. The flames of natural gas burn in little caves at floor level. One does indeed burn from earth; one burns just beside a little spring (from water) ; the one 'from stone' exhausted itself two years ago and so burns no longer.

108 water spouts

A bath under these water spouts is considered to be holy which will erase all your sins, so they say. A bath at over 3700 m, out in the open would definitely be an experience to share if not for the erasing of the sins. Also, take a closer look at the water spouts. They are one of the avatars of Lord Vishnu, Boar.

Ammonite Fossil

Many Shaligrams, or fossils dating back to when these valleys were not yet valleys and were still deep under the sea, dot the valley floors. Also worshipped as a form of Lord Vishnu by the Hindus and as Gawa Jogpa, the serpent deity by the Buddhists.

Yartung Festival

4 days of debauchery and daredevilry. Held in the Muktinath area and is characterized by drinking, merrymaking, archery contest and horse races. Upcoming dates 18 August, 2016; 6 September, 2017; 26 August 2018; 15 August 2019 and 2 September, 2020. Dates might differ by a day or two, but you will not find this information anywhere else.

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Bob Marley lodge

Amongst the many places Bob Marley has succeeded to leave his impression is this lodge in Ranipauwa.

Colored houses at Chhyongur

Jhong

Instead of taking the dusty motor road from Muktinath to Kagbeni the alternate route from Jhong to Kagbeni should help you avoid the road.

Crane Migration

One of the few events from Nepal to be chronicled in the amazing Planet Earth series created by the BBC. Thousands and thousands of Demoiselle cranes use the Kali Gandaki corridor to escape the Central Asian winter for warmer climes of South Asia. The migration occurs from the October to November peaking about mid-October. If the weather takes a turn for the worse, these birds fly much lower, sometimes even settling in on the fields for the night.

Image Courtesy: Mr Rajendra N. Suwal, NepalNature

Petroglyphs at Eklebhatti (Old Kagbeni)

Thousands of years old rock arts are left completely abandoned at Eklebhatti. Many will surely miss this site as even with much concentration and time one might not see these rock arts. A proper lighting might do the trick.

Yac Donalds restaurant and lodge

One of the most famous restaurants of the entire circuit is Yac Donalds. Its name got famous so far and wide that Mc Donalds itself sent a letter to the owners of Yac Donalds asking them to change the logo. Its not just the name, there are delicious foods awaiting too.

Dhumba Lake

Just a little far away from Thini this lake could act as a escape from the dusty Jomsom.

Jomsom- Thini Bonpo Monastery.

Bonpo is a pre-Buddhist religion.

Marpha- The Crown Jewel

Apples at Marpha

Marpha is the land of apples to put it more dramatically. Apple cider is the one lesser known way to enjoy the fresh apples of Marpha.

Marpha- Apple Blossoms

During spring Apple blossoms create a beautiful sight at Marpha.

Marpha- Neeru Guest House

Amazing Apple Cider and Ghinti. Order one to find what Ghinti is. Very friendly lodge owner.

Larjung- Naurikot Sidetrip

Dhaulagiri or Muligang, one of the holiest mountain in the area and also one of the toughest to climb. There is a remains of a pilatus porter somewhere above that icefall. Emil Wick would land planes and drop chickens for the benefit of mountaineering parties in the Icefall.

Larjung-Gurusampo Caves

One of the holiest of the caves in Mustang. Amazing views. Right below the imposing Dhaulagiri Icefall.

Larjung-Weird shapes at Gurusampo

Inside the smaller of the caves at Gurusampo you will see forms like this and much more.

Larjung- Parnassia wightiana

Larjung- Allium humile

Larjung- Maharanga emod

Larjung- Roscoea alpina

Larjung- Senecio diversifolius

Larjung- Potentilla cuneata

Larjung- Lilium nepalense

Ghasa- Himalaya Monal

Ghasa is one of the few spots along the Himalayas where all six species of pheasants are found. A short walk into the forests surrounding Ghasa will be a worthwhile trip. The owner of Eagle Nest Lodge will be arrange a knowledgeable guide. +977-9857650101, +977-9746702209 and +977-984767048.

Ghasa- Blood Pheasant

Ghasa- Kalij Pheasant

Ghasa- Koklass Pheasanthttps://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/59/PucrasiaXanthospilaWolf.jpg

Ghasa- Cheer PheasantImage Courtesy: Gunjan Arora, Bird Conservation Nepal

Ghasa- Satyr Tragopan

Has one of the weirdest morning call.

Image Courtesy: Bird Conservation Nepal

Tatopani the Hot Spring

Best way to end your trek.