sanicapyl: a natural solution for a healthy scalp and beautiful-looking hair

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ASSOCIATED PRODUCTS Builders EU adopts proposed restriction on phosphates in laundry detergents The European Parliament and the Council of the European Union have adopted the European Commission’s proposal [Focus on Surfactants, Jan 11] to amend Regulation (EC) No 648/2004 as regards the use of phosphates and other phosphorus compounds in household laundry detergents. The draft legislative act has already been transmitted to and approved by the national Parliaments of the EU member states. Points (1), (3), (7), (9) and (10) of Article 1 of Regulation (EC) No 648/2004 have been amended such that, from 1 Jan 2013, household laundry detergents shall not be placed on the market if the total content of phosphorus is equal to or greater than 0.5% by weight. This regulation entered into force on the twentieth day following that of its publication in the Official Journal of the European Union (19 Apr 2011). The amended regulation shall be binding in its entirety and directly applicable in all member states. Official Journal of the European Union C Information and Notices, 19 Apr 2011, 54 (C 121), 1-14 (European Communities, website: http://eur- lex.europa.eu) Other Sanicapyl: a natural solution for a healthy scalp and beautiful-looking hair Laboratoires Serobiologiques (LS), the active ingredients business of Cognis, which is now part of the BASF Group, has launched the natural complex Sanicapyl. This active ingredient helps to rebalance the scalp to overcome dandruff conditions, while beautifying the hair. Oily dandruff conditions are mainly caused by an excess production of sebum, which can be aggravated by bacterial proliferation or hyperkeratosis. Closely linked to this is an inflammation of the skin that causes the scalp to itch and leaves hair shafts weakened and looking dull. While conventional synthetic molecules are able to reduce dandruff, they are not very effective at regulating the production of sebum. As a result, the itching persists and the hair remains looking dull and lacklustre. However, new plant-based active ingredient Sanicapyl has been shown to exert a moisturizing as well as an anti-inflammatory activity (in vitro tests), reducing itching sensations and regulating the production of sebum. In addition, it has proven antidandruff properties: in clinical tests, Sanicapyl proved as effective as a benchmark active ingredient. Further tests confirmed it had significant antimicrobial activity on Malassezia furfur and M globosa. Compared to the benchmark active ingredient, the new natural complex was also shown to offer additional hair beauty properties, by enhancing hair radiance and boosting hair softness. It is suitable for all hair types and can be incorporated into shampoo, lotion and conditioner formulations. The product contains sodium lauroyl lactylate, butylene glycol, piper negrum (pepper), fruit extract and Inga Alba bark extract, is preservative free, used at 0.3% to 1%, and is water soluble. Press release from: Cognis GmbH, Postfach 130164, D-40551, Düsseldorf, Germany, website: http://www.cognis.com (31 Mar 2011) Eastman launches first personal care ingredient using GEM technology Eastman Chemical Co has introduced its first commercially available product derived from GEM technology, the proprietary green manufacturing process and winner of the EPA’s Presidential Green Chemical Award in 2009 [Focus on Surfactants, Oct 2009] (Eastman GEM technology was formerly known as the Eastman green biocatalytic process). Eastman GEM 2-ethylhexyl palmitate is a high-quality material ideal for use in skin care and colour cosmetic applications. ‘We created Eastman GEM 2-ethylhexyl palmitate to meet the rising consumers’ and brand desire for sustainably manufactured cosmetic ingredients’, says Marcie Natale, biocatalysis platform manager, Eastman Chemical. ‘Our technology significantly removes waste, reduces energy-use and GHG emissions. The beauty is in the process.’ The GEM process uses enzymatic technology and closely controlled manufacturing conditions to make esters, eliminating the high temperature and strong acids traditionally required in their manufacture. Esters are a vital building block in thousands of products. Eastman’s ‘gentler’ technology consumes less energy while making high-quality products, even when beginning with sensitive starting materials. Press release from: Eastman Chemical Co, PO Box 431, Kingsport, TN 37662, USA, tel: +1 423 229 2000, fax: +1 423 229 2145, website: http://www.eastman.com (29 Mar 2011) New product highlights from the in-cosmetics show A number of companies unveiled new associated products at the in-cosmetics show held in Milan, Italy on 29-31 Mar 2011. AkzoNobel presented its new Structure CEL range of polymers, promoted as sustainable, nonionic rheology modifiers for hair and skin care applications. The polymers are expected to find applications as rheology and texture modifiers in conditioners, foam boosters and rheology modifiers in shampoos, and rheology modifiers for hair styling gels. International Group launched Sebapet as a natural vegetable petrolatum replacement. The material is a mix of vegetable oils with actions similar to those of fatty acids and esters found in natural skin sebum. It is suited for use in creams, lotions, lip care products and body washes. BRB International presented a full line of silicone crosspolymers for personal care applications while Agrana exhibited certified organic biopolymers Agenajel 21.387, Quemina 21.257 and Agenamalt 20.235. An organic waxy corn starch, Agenajel is ideal for hot or cold cream and lotion formulations, as well as a powder base. Quemina is intended as an organic thickener in emulsions while organic maltodextrin Agenamalt functions as a carrier and filler. Finally, Dow Corning unveiled its CE-7080 Smart Style Emulsion. This amino acid silicone elastomer emulsion imparts many styling benefits when used in leave-in 4 JUNE 2011 FOCUS ON SURFACTANTS

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Page 1: Sanicapyl: a natural solution for a healthy scalp and beautiful-looking hair

ASSOCIATEDPRODUCTS

Builders

EU adopts proposed restriction onphosphates in laundry detergents

The European Parliament and theCouncil of the European Union haveadopted the European Commission’sproposal [Focus on Surfactants, Jan11] to amend Regulation (EC) No648/2004 as regards the use ofphosphates and other phosphoruscompounds in household laundrydetergents. The draft legislative acthas already been transmitted to andapproved by the national Parliamentsof the EU member states. Points (1),(3), (7), (9) and (10) of Article 1 ofRegulation (EC) No 648/2004 havebeen amended such that, from 1 Jan2013, household laundry detergentsshall not be placed on the market ifthe total content of phosphorus isequal to or greater than 0.5% byweight. This regulation entered intoforce on the twentieth day followingthat of its publication in the OfficialJournal of the European Union (19Apr 2011). The amended regulationshall be binding in its entirety anddirectly applicable in all memberstates.

Official Journal of the European Union C Informationand Notices, 19 Apr 2011, 54 (C 121), 1-14(European Communities, website: http://eur-lex.europa.eu)

Other

Sanicapyl: a natural solution for ahealthy scalp and beautiful-lookinghair

Laboratoires Serobiologiques (LS),the active ingredients business ofCognis, which is now part of theBASF Group, has launched thenatural complex Sanicapyl. Thisactive ingredient helps to rebalancethe scalp to overcome dandruffconditions, while beautifying the hair.Oily dandruff conditions are mainlycaused by an excess production ofsebum, which can be aggravated bybacterial proliferation orhyperkeratosis. Closely linked to thisis an inflammation of the skin that

causes the scalp to itch and leaveshair shafts weakened and lookingdull. While conventional syntheticmolecules are able to reducedandruff, they are not very effective atregulating the production of sebum.As a result, the itching persists andthe hair remains looking dull andlacklustre. However, new plant-basedactive ingredient Sanicapyl has beenshown to exert a moisturizing as wellas an anti-inflammatory activity (in vitro tests), reducing itchingsensations and regulating theproduction of sebum. In addition, ithas proven antidandruff properties: inclinical tests, Sanicapyl proved aseffective as a benchmark activeingredient. Further tests confirmed ithad significant antimicrobial activityon Malassezia furfur and M globosa.Compared to the benchmark activeingredient, the new natural complexwas also shown to offer additionalhair beauty properties, by enhancinghair radiance and boosting hairsoftness. It is suitable for all hair typesand can be incorporated intoshampoo, lotion and conditionerformulations. The product containssodium lauroyl lactylate, butyleneglycol, piper negrum (pepper), fruitextract and Inga Alba bark extract, ispreservative free, used at 0.3% to1%, and is water soluble.

Press release from: Cognis GmbH, Postfach 130164,D-40551, Düsseldorf, Germany, website:http://www.cognis.com (31 Mar 2011)

Eastman launches first personal careingredient using GEM technology

Eastman Chemical Co has introducedits first commercially available productderived from GEM technology, theproprietary green manufacturingprocess and winner of the EPA’sPresidential Green Chemical Award in2009 [Focus on Surfactants, Oct2009] (Eastman GEM technology wasformerly known as the Eastman greenbiocatalytic process). Eastman GEM2-ethylhexyl palmitate is a high-qualitymaterial ideal for use in skin care andcolour cosmetic applications. ‘Wecreated Eastman GEM 2-ethylhexylpalmitate to meet the risingconsumers’ and brand desire forsustainably manufactured cosmeticingredients’, says Marcie Natale,biocatalysis platform manager,Eastman Chemical. ‘Our technology

significantly removes waste, reducesenergy-use and GHG emissions. Thebeauty is in the process.’ The GEMprocess uses enzymatic technologyand closely controlled manufacturingconditions to make esters, eliminatingthe high temperature and strong acidstraditionally required in theirmanufacture. Esters are a vitalbuilding block in thousands ofproducts. Eastman’s ‘gentler’technology consumes less energywhile making high-quality products,even when beginning with sensitivestarting materials.

Press release from: Eastman Chemical Co, PO Box431, Kingsport, TN 37662, USA, tel: +1 423 2292000, fax: +1 423 229 2145, website:http://www.eastman.com (29 Mar 2011)

New product highlights from the in-cosmetics show

A number of companies unveiled new associated products at the in-cosmetics show held in Milan, Italyon 29-31 Mar 2011. AkzoNobelpresented its new Structure CELrange of polymers, promoted assustainable, nonionic rheologymodifiers for hair and skin careapplications. The polymers areexpected to find applications asrheology and texture modifiers inconditioners, foam boosters andrheology modifiers in shampoos, andrheology modifiers for hair stylinggels. International Group launchedSebapet as a natural vegetablepetrolatum replacement. The materialis a mix of vegetable oils with actionssimilar to those of fatty acids andesters found in natural skin sebum. Itis suited for use in creams, lotions, lipcare products and body washes. BRBInternational presented a full line ofsilicone crosspolymers for personalcare applications while Agranaexhibited certified organicbiopolymers Agenajel 21.387,Quemina 21.257 and Agenamalt20.235. An organic waxy corn starch,Agenajel is ideal for hot or cold creamand lotion formulations, as well as apowder base. Quemina is intended asan organic thickener in emulsionswhile organic maltodextrin Agenamaltfunctions as a carrier and filler.Finally, Dow Corning unveiled its CE-7080 Smart Style Emulsion. Thisamino acid silicone elastomeremulsion imparts many stylingbenefits when used in leave-in

4 JUNE 2011

F O C U S O N S U R F A C T A N T S