SKASKASKASKASKAGIT COUNTGIT COUNTGIT COUNTGIT COUNTGIT COUNTYYYYY, , , , , WWWWWAAAAAIf their Maple Street homein Hamilton, Washingtonwas not elevated, theThrams family would nothave moved into it last June.And if the home had notbeen elevated, it would beas flooded and unlivable asthe house next door.

Mike and Velda Thramsare glad they bought ahouse that was elevated byits previous owner followingthe 1995 flood. OnOctober 20, the PugetSound area suffered theworst single-day rainfall thestate had seen in more than100 years.

“I’m very happy aboutour home,” said Mrs.Thrams. “We wouldn’t havebought this house if itwasn’t this high. We mayhave lost a motorcycle andthe back deck was dislodged,but our belongings and our house are fine.” The Thramshad closed on the home only a few weeks before theflood invaded the town of Hamilton.

According to Mrs. Thrams, the elevated townmuseum (formally the city hall) across the street also“looks good.” The museum had been part of a FEMAelevation project. Owing to the elevation of the museumand the Thrams’ home, both structures stayed dry.

In addition, the land now used for the city park acrossthe street from the museum used to be occupied byseveral flood-prone homes. Another mitigation project,funded by FEMA and administered by the State of

FloodSafeFloodSafe is published by the Mitigation Divisionat FEMA Region 10. If you have any questions orconcerns please contact us at 425.487.4600

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What NextThe Problem with Mold .............................. 2

Protecting Your Home From Backflow ...... 3

NFIP ExplainedDo You Need Flood Insurance? ................... 4

How Do I File A Flood Insurance Claim? .... 5

Myths & Facts About the NFIP .................... 6

Manufactured HomesElevate & Anchor Manufactured Homes .... 6

Repairing Your Manufactured Home .......... 7

Flood MitigationIs It Possible To Relocate My House? .......... 8

Home Elevation: Where Do I Start ............ 8

How Do I Hire a Contractor? ...................... 9

Landslide HazardsLook Out for Landslides .............................. 10

Stabilizing Your Property ............................. 10

Urban FloodingWhat is Urban Stormwater ......................... 11

Preventing Flooding Around Your Home .... 11

Mitigation PlanningJust in Time Planning in Skagit County ....... 12

Hazard Mitigation Plans ............................... 12

Elevated Buildings Stay Dry

On-line Education for HomeownersFEMA continues to develop new multimedia tutorials toprovide in-depth training in different facets of theNational Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) and tosupport FEMA’s public education and outreach efforts.Recent improvements to the FEMA web page providean array of training opportunities for anyone interestedin learning more about the NFIP and related topics. Ifyou are in need of a Letter of Map Amendment to showyour house is outside of the floodplain, or are required to

get an Elevation Certificate that will cost you money,visit these tutorials to learn more about what you shouldknow and how to get it done. Additional on-linetutorials walk you through reading Flood Insurance RateMaps (FIRM’s), understanding GIS, Elevation Certifi-cates, and much more. For a more detailed explanationof all these services, visit FEMA on-line at:

www.fema.gov/fima/education.shtm

Washington, allowed for the purchase and destruction ofthese homes and the formation of the existing park. Thistoo avoided a great deal of damage from the recentflooding that would have occurred to those homes hadthey not been removed.

The rental house next door to the Thrams wasflooded and unoccupied, said Mrs. Thrams. That wasthe fate of many other homes in the Thrams’ neighbor-hood – a view from their elevated home that makes itspoint.

Public Information OfficeFEMA Region 10425.487.4610

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Washington Military DepartmentEmergency Management Divisionwww.emd.wa.gov

National Flood Insurance Programwww.fema.gov/fima/nfip.shtml

DisasterHelp Websitewww.disasterhelp.gov

SafeInformation about future flood damage prevention

A publication of FEMA Mitigation & the Washington Military Department – Emergency Management Division

Washington Military Department

Emergency Management Division

The Thrams’ elevated home remains dry.

The museum and park that were part of a FEMAfunded, and state administered mitigation projects.

Mike Thram points out the high-water mark on the sideof his home.

JEFFREY M

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JEFFREY M

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JEFFREY M

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Pumping Out a Flooded Basement

Cleaning Up & Drying Out Your Home

The Problem withMoldOne problem that often occurs after a flood is thedevelopment of mold. Mold growths, or colonies, canstart to grow on a damp surface within 24 to 48 hours.Molds digest organic material, eventually destroying thematerial they grow on. In addition to the damage moldscan cause in your home they can also cause mild tosevere health problems.

If your home has water damage due to flooding,sewage backup, plumbing or roof leaks, damp basement,overflows from sinks or bathtub, or high humidity, moldand mildew will develop within 24-48 hours of waterexposure. Even worse, it will continue to grow untilsteps are taken to eliminate the source of moisture andeffectively deal with the mold problem. FEMA nowoffers a publication called “Dealing with Mold andMildew in Your Flood Damaged Home.” This bookletwill help you determine the severity of your moldproblem. It will also provide steps you can take to makeyour house normal again. This booklet is available in aprintable Adobe Acrobat (PDF format) document on-line at this address:

www.fema.gov/pdf/reg-x/mold_mildew.pdf

If your basement is flooded, don’t rush to pump it out.Water in the ground outside your house is pushing hardagainst the outside of your basement walls, and thewater inside your basement is pushing right back (FigureA). If you drain your basement faster than the wateroutside drains out of the ground, the outside pressurewill be greater than the inside pressure. This unequalpressure may cause the floor to crack then buckle andthe walls to crack and possibly collapse (Figure B).

How to Safely Pump Water Out ofYour Basement

• Never go into a flooded basement unless you are surethe electricity is off.

• Start pumping the water out of the basement whenfloodwaters no longer cover the ground around theoutside perimeter of the house.

• Gasoline engines create deadly carbon monoxideexhaust fumes, so don’t use them indoors.

• Pump the water level down 2 to 3 feet. Mark thelevel, and wait overnight.

• Check the water level the next day. If the water levelwent back up over your mark, it is still too early todrain your basement.

• Wait 24 hours, then pump the water down 2 to 3feet again. Mark the level and check it the next day.

• When the water stops rising, pump down another 2to 3 feet and wait overnight. Repeat steps 4 and 5until all water is pumped out of the basement.

What to Do After Draining YourBasement

• Disinfect the floors and walls to remove bacteria leftfrom the floodwaters.

• Before turning the power back on, check anyelectrical service that may have been damaged.Replace any wiring, switches, and/or outlets that weresubmerged or got wet during the flood.

• Remove heating and air conditioning vents orregisters as soon as possible and hose out theductwork. Flooded ducts contain mud and bacteria.Ductwork comprised of flexible hose cannot be hosedout; you mustreplace it.

• Check your water system for loose pipes and leaks.

• Check your water supply to be certain it is notcontaminated.

• Check all drains and other utilities for damage fromthe floodwaters.

If your house or its understructure have been underwater from the recent flooding, you will need to takeimportant steps to clean out bacteria and mold, and drythe building out thoroughly.

Steps for drying out the house• Turn off the main power.

• Open up the house to allow moist air to escape.

• Remove all wet furniture, contents and carpets orrugs. If you decide to keep some of these itemsthey must be cleaned and disinfected.

• Discard all contaminated foodproducts.

Interior Walls: Interiorplaster walls will need tobe drained if they are stillholding water. Remove thebaseboard trim and drillholes about 2” above thefloor to let the water out. Theholes can be hidden behind thereinstalled baseboards. Flood soaked sectionsof wallboard will usually have to be removed andthrown away. Paneled walls can usually be dried out byprying out the bottom corner of the paneling andpropping it out away from the wall studs.

Exterior Walls: Insulation in exterior walls will holdmoisture and bacteria. It is important to remove anyflood soaked insulation as soon as possible so the otherbuilding materials can dry out properly. Batt insulation

and blown-in insulation cannot be reused in your repairsand must by thrown away. Rigid foam insulation can beremoved and disinfected. Once it is completely dry itcan be reinstalled in the wall cavity. Once the insulationis removed the wall must be disinfected and thoroughlydried. Dehumidifiers and portable heaters can speed thisprocess up.

Floor Framing: If the flood waters got into your floorframing but not into your house you will need to checkfor wet floor insulation. Wet floor insulation must beremoved and the framing disinfected and dried out inthe same manner as the walls.

Disinfecting: Disinfect all surfaces thatwere soaked by flood waters with

“disinfecting” or “sanitizing”products. An alterna-tive is to use a mixtureof ¼ cup liquidchlorine bleach mixedinto one gallon ofwater. Remove mildewusing householdmildew removers or

fungicides.

Reconstruction: Reconstruction materialsshould be water resistant. Instead of regular

wallboard or plaster, use water resistant or waterproofwallboard for interior wall surfaces. Install wallboardhorizontally. Use rigid foam insulation instead of batt orblown-in insulation. Use galvanized or stainless steelhardware. Use indoor-outdoor carpeting. Use exteriorgrade plywood for sub-floor reconstruction.

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Figure A Figure B

This booklet on mold is available on-line.

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Install FloatingFloor Drain Plug

Install a floating floor drain plug at the lowest point ofthe lowest finished floor. This will allow the water todrain. When the floor drain pipe backs up, the float risesand plugs the drain, preventing sewer backup.

Protecting Your Home From BackflowThe sewage/septic system is designed to remove sewagefrom a house. If flood water enters the system, thesewage can backup and enter your home. To helpprevent this, install a backflow valve in the sewer line.The backflow valve is opened by the flow of sewageexiting your home, but closes when the flow reversespreventing sewage from backing up into your home.Keep these points in mind when considering installing abackflow valve:

• For your own safety, changes to the plumbing in yourhouse must be done by a licensed plumber orcontractor, who will ensure that the work is donecorrectly and according to all applicable codes.

• Some valves incorporate the advantages of both flapand gate valves into a single design. Your plumber orcontractor can advise you on the advantages anddisadvantages of the various types of backflow valves.

• Valves should be installed on all pipes that leave thehouse or that are connected to equipment that isbelow the potential flood level. Such valves may beneeded on washing machine drain lines, laundrysinks, fuel oil lines, rain downspouts, and sumppumps, as well as sewer/septic connections.

• If you have a sump pump, it may be connected tounderground drain lines, which may be difficult toseal off.

Relocating YourElectrical BoxElevate the electrical box to a recommended 12" safetymargin above 100-year flood elevation (Fig. A) orrelocate the electrical box to an upper floor (Fig. B).

Figure A

Figure B

Exterior Backflow Valve

Pit

WARNING: Does your home have clay pipes?Backflow valves can cause problems in claysewage pipes. Contact your licensed contractorfor more information!

Interior Backflow Valve

If your home is not in the regulatory floodway, aninnovative technique for safegarding your home againstthe onslaught of floodwaters is the floodwall. Expertsrecommend that the floodwall not exceed two feet inheight; it could however be incorporated into a standardchain-link or wooden fence. The floodwall pictured

below forms a perimeter around the property of a housein Seattle. Notice the photo of the driveway at right.Under normal conditions, the driveway portion of thefloodwall remains open, as shown in the photo. Whenfloodwaters begin to threaten the home, the ownersimply installs a floodgate that seals off the open space.

Floodwalls

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How Do I File AFlood InsuranceClaim?If you experienced flood damage and are covered by floodinsurance, these important steps will help you when filingyour flood insurance claim.

1. Save as many damaged articles as possible. If you mustthrow items out, take pictures to document your losses.

2. Contact your insurance agent right away.

Once your insurance agent has your claim:

1. The agent will file a Notice of Loss.

2. An adjuster will be assigned to your case.

3. Once the loss has been adjusted, a Proof of Loss will besubmitted, and payment can be made. Partial paymentcan be made to claimants upon submission of a partialProof of Loss.

4. If you have any problems with your insurance claimcall the Office of the Insurance Commissioner’sConsumer Hotline at (800) 562-6900.

Do I Still Need to Make anApplication to FEMA ?All property owners who had flood damages caused by afederally declared disaster should make an application fordisaster assistance. The applications are routed throughthe different disaster programs and homeowners arenotified if they are eligible for assistance beyond theirflood insurance claim.

How do I know ifI’m in the Floodplain?The floodplain is identified as “Special Flood HazardAreas” in your community’s Flood Insurance Study andthe accompanying Flood Insurance Rate Maps (FIRMs).The flood level shown for these Special Flood HazardAreas has a 1% chance of being equaled or exceeded inany one year. That translates into a 26% chance offlooding over a typical 30-year mortgage period ascompared to a 1% chance of fire damage over the sameperiod. The building permit officials in your communityhave these documents available for you to see.

What isSubstantial Damage?Substantial Damage is damage, of any origin, to astructure where the cost of restoring the structure to itsbefore-damage condition would equal or exceed fiftypercent (50%) of its pre-damage value.

Do you need Flood Insurance?

Counterpoint

What is theNational FloodInsuranceProgram?The National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) is a federalprogram enabling property owners to purchase floodinsurance. It is based on an agreement between yourcommunity and the federal government. The agreementstates that if your community adopts and enforcesfloodplain management regulations that at least meetminimum federal requirements, the federal governmentwill make flood insurance and flood disaster assistanceavailable in your community.

How Do IPurchase FloodInsurance?Flood Insurance is not available everywhere. It is availableonly to residents of communities participating in theNational Flood Insurance Program (NFIP). For moreinformation and to find out if your community partici-pates in the NFIP, call 1-800-427-4661.

If your community is participating in the NationalFlood Insurance Program you can purchase insurance foryour property. There are no restrictions. All insuranceagents can sell flood insurance policies. If your agent is notaware of the procedures for selling flood insurancepolicies, please call 1-800-720-1093 for a referral to aninsurance agent in your area who writes NFIP policies.

When does the NFIP affect me?The NFIP requires participating communities to regulate,with permits, any new or substantially improvedstructures during non-disaster periods and to monitor andidentify any substantially damaged structures as a result ofa disaster within the community’s floodplain areas.Participating communities adopt an ordinance thatrequires any new buildings to be elevated above theprojected flood level within the identified floodplain.Nonresidential buildings have the additional option ofbeing dry flood proofed. Existing buildings that aresubstantially damaged or improved (50% or more) mustbe elevated or flood proofed to meet the same construc-tion code standards as new construction. When you applyfor a local building permit you will be informed if you arein a floodplain and what further steps are required torepair or reconstruct your building. If your building wasflooded but not substantially damaged there is a widerange of inexpensive measures described in this bookletthat can help you reduce future flood damage.

Why go through all this trouble?First, typical homeowner and business insurance doesnot cover damage caused by a flood. Second, as aparticipating community in the National FloodInsurance Program (NFIP), your community isrequired to enforce its floodplain regulations. Third,structures located in the floodplain, that are notelevated or flood-proofed, are a threat to the healthand safety of the occupants. Fourth, structures thatdo not take into consideration the flood risks willrepeatedly need to be bailed out by the government(usually through the NFIP or various disasterassistance programs) when flooding reoccurs.

What happens if Irefuse to comply?If you do not obtain a permit and do not elevate orflood proof, then your community could take legalaction against you. This could include haltingdevelopment, revoking the permit, imposing a fine,or withholding a certificate of occupancy. If the

structure is in violation of the regulations, floodinsurance premiums could be extremely costly,possibly making the structure difficult to sell. Also,your community could be placed in jeopardy forcontinued participation in the NFIP.

What if I have more questions?Your building permit and floodplain managementofficials are responsible for implementing the require-ments of the local floodplain management ordinance,including the substantial damage provisions. Follow-ing a disaster declaration, the requirements pertainingto substantial damage will be presented to yourcommunity officials in detail at meetings held invarious locations throughout the state. FEMA willwork with building officials to help them identifystructures which may qualify as substantially damaged.In addition, FEMA will provide technical assistance tolocal building officials concerning the repair orreconstruction of substantially damaged structures.

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This collapsed foundation wall, caused by heavy floodwaters, constitutes “substantial damage.”

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Myths and Facts about the NationalFlood Insurance Program (NFIP)

CommunityRating System(CRS)You may be eligible for reduced flood insurancepremiums if your community is involved in FEMA’sCommunity Rating System (CRS). The CRS is avoluntary program that rewards community membersfor the proactive work taken by local officials to reduceflooding and encourage the purchase of flood insurance.For every activity that your community takes to reduceflood damages, restore river habitat, and increase publicawareness, points are awarded. There are ten CRS classes.For each class improvement, community members in thefloodplain receive an additional 5% reduction in theirinsurance premium. As your community advances in theCRS, so will the savings. Beginning at a class 10, thesecommunities are at the entry level. Although there are nosavings at this level, it is the first commitment towardsimproved flood hazard reduction and flood awareness.Some communities will eventually achieve Class 1 status,meaning, they have the most credit points and receivethe maximum 45% discount.

To find out if your community participates in theCRS, contact your local floodplain administrator or visitFEMA’s website at:

www.fema.gov/nfip/crs.shtm

Who needs to buy flood insurance?Everyone in a participating community in the NationalFlood Insurance Program (NFIP). To clear up somemisconceptions about National Flood Insurance, theNFIP has compiled the following list of common mythsabout the program, and the real facts behind them, togive you the full story about this valuable protection.

Myth: Homeowner’s insurance policies cover flooding.

Fact: Unfortunately, many homeowners do not findout until it is too late that their homeownerpolicies do not cover flood damages. OnlyNational Flood Insurance covers damage toyour home and belongings caused by flooding.

Myth: Federal flood insurance can only be purchasedthrough the NFIP (FEMA) directly.

Fact: NFIP flood insurance is sold through privateinsurance companies and agents and is backedby the federal government.

Myth: Only residents of high-risk flood zones need toinsure their property.

Fact: Even if you live in an area that is not flood-prone, it’s advisable to have flood insurance.Over 25 percent of the NFIP’s claims comefrom outside high-flood-risk areas. If you live inan area not shown as a floodplain, not only canyou buy insurance, but the rates you pay willbe less than if you lived in a mapped floodplain.

Myth: You can’t buy flood insurance if you are locatedin a high-flood-risk area.

Fact: You can buy federal flood insurance no matterwhere you live – as long as your communityparticipates in the NFIP. The NFIP providesaffordable flood insurance coverage for anywalled and roofed building whether it is in amapped floodplain area, or in areas where nofloodplain map exists.

Myth: The NFIP does not offer basement coverage.

Fact: Yes, it does. While flood insurance does notcover basement improvements, such as finishedwalls, floors or ceilings, or personal belongingsthat may be kept in a basement, such asfurniture or other contents, it does coverstructural elements, essential equipment andother basic items normally located in a base-ment. The following items are covered in abasement, as long as they are connected to apower source and used as intended:

• Sump pumps

• Well water tanks and pumps

• Oil tanks and the oil in them

• Gas tanks and the gas in them

• Furnaces, water heaters, air conditioners, andheat pumps

• Electrical junction and circuit breaker boxes,and required utility connections

• Foundation elements

• Stairways, staircases, and elevators

• Unpainted drywall and sheet rock walls andceilings and fiberglass insulation

• Cleanup

• Clothes washers and dryers and food freezers(with contents coverage only)

Myth: Federal disaster assistance will pay for anyflood damage.

Fact: Before a community is eligible for disasterassistance, it must be declared a Federal disasterarea. Federal disasters are only declared with arequest from the governor following widespreadand devastating flooding. The premium for anNFIP policy, averaging $360 a year nationally,is less expensive than the annual interest paidon a federal disaster loan

CoveringCompliance CostsIf your home or business is damaged by a flood, youmay be required to meet certain building requirementsin your community to reduce future flood damagebefore you repair or rebuild. To help you cover the costsof meeting those requirements, the national FloodInsurance Program includes additional coverage knownas IncreasedIncreasedIncreasedIncreasedIncreased CosCosCosCosCosttttt ofofofofof Compliance Compliance Compliance Compliance Compliance (ICC)(ICC)(ICC)(ICC)(ICC) coverage.

How Much Coverage is AvailableFlood insurance policyholders in high-risk areas, alsoknown as special flood hazard areas, can get up to$30,000 to help pay the costs to bring their home orbusiness into compliance with floodplain ordinances.

Four Options CoveredThere are four options you can take to comply with yourcommunity’s floodplain management ordinance andhelp you reduce future flood damage. You may decidewhich of these options is best for you:

Elevation – This raises your home or business to a pointat or above the base flood elevation level adopted byyour community.

Relocation – – – – – This moves your home or business out ofthe floodplain, and thus out of harm’s way.

Demolition – This tears down and removes flood-damaged buildings.

Floodproofing – Primarily available for nonresidentialbuildings, this involves making a building watertight.

Are You Eligible To File an ICC Claim?You are eligible to file for ICC if the floodplain adminis-trator determines one of the following:

• Your property is “substantially damaged.” This termmeans that your community determines that the costto repair your flooded structure is 50% or more of itspre-disaster market value.

• Your property sustained “repetitive damage.” Thisterm applies to homes or businesses that weredamaged by flooding twice in the past 10 years,where the cost of repairing the flood damage, equaledor exceeded 25% of the property market value at thetime of each flood. Also, there must have been floodinsurance claim payments for each of the two floodlosses and the community’s floodplain managementordinance must have a repetitive loss provision.

Insurance Rating ExampleThe charts below give an example of typical rates onecan expect to pay for flood insurance. The cost ofinsurance is proportional to the flood risk. This isdetermined by comparing the flood zone, as shown on aFEMA Flood Insurance Rate Map (FIRM) with thestructure’s elevation above the Base Flood Elevation(BFE). In other words, the higher the structure abovethe base flood, the lower the rate!

The chart on the left, “Post FIRM Construction,”shows average rates for $100,000 of coverage on a single

family home built after the community’s FIRM wasadopted. For example, if your home was built in 2000,your premium will reflect your home’s flood zone and itselevation above the “BFE” as depicted on the maps ineffect in 2000.

Similarly, the chart on the right, “Manufactured(Mobile) Homes,” shows the rates for a typical manufac-tured home (valued at $60,000) in an existing manufac-tured home park.

3 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . $196

2 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . $231

1 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . $351

0 ft. at BFE . . . . . . . . . . $521

1 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $1601

2 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $1790

3 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $2140

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3 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . NA

2 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . $194

1 ft. above BFE . . . . . . . $345

0 ft. at BFE . . . . . . . . . . $735

1 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $1036

2 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $1276

3 ft. below BFE . . . . . . $1662

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Post FIRM Construction Manufactured (Mobile) Homes

Premiums a s of September 2003 **Can be higher depending on how risk exposure is reviewed by FEM A.

The proper elevating and anchoring of a mobile ormanufactured home incorporates a total foundationsystem. The three basic components of the system arefoundations (footings and piers), anchors, and lateralbracing. All three are essential in creating a safe and securemanufactured home installation that can resist extremeloading conditions, such as those that occur duringnatural disasters.

FoundationsFootingA poured concrete footing,reinforced with rebar, givesmaximum stability. Inaccordance with theWashington

State standards the footing must be 30" deep, orto the depth of the frost line, whichever is deeper.Additionally, the repair that will connect the footing tothe pier must be cast into the footing at the time it ispoured. This rebar must be located such that it will be inthe center of the pier when it is constructed.

PiersThe use of 8" X 16" concrete blocks stacked verticallywithout any reinforcement or concrete grouting, inconjunction with a proper tie-down system is permissiblefor units elevated up to 3 blocks high if they are stacked asa single row. You can go up to 5 blocks high if they arestacked as a double row. In all cases the blocks must bestacked with the solid outside walls facing out and theopen cells facing up. This is commonly referred to as dry-stacked block.

Piers that will be from 5 blocks high (40") to 9 blockshigh (72") must have a #5 size reinforcing bar (rebar) ineach block cell for a total of four bars. Each cell must thenbe filled solid with cement mortar with a stated strengthof 2000psi. This is commonly referred to asreinforced block. If 20% of the piers aregoing to be higher than 40" WashingtonState law requires that the piers be designedby a licensed structural engineer or architect.

Piers over 72" high are required byWashington State law to be designed by alicensed structural engineer or architect.

Anchoring & Lateral BracingAnchoring is the structural function ofholding the dwelling unit down to keep itfrom floating. Lateral bracing is thestructural function that resists horizontalforces such as flowing floodwaters,earthquakes and high winds. In manymanufactured home foundationdesigns the anchoring system actsas both the anchoring and lateralbracing system.

It is important that the proper anchoring system is usedfor your site conditions. Begin by determining the type ofsoil on your property. Use the appropriate anchor for thetype of soil present.

Elevate & Anchor Manufactured Homes

Double Headed Rock Anchors withDrive RodsUse these for your anchors if you haverock or very dense, cemented clay soil.A small hole must be pre-prilled intothe rock and the rod is hammeredin with as many blows as it takesso that the top of the rodmushrooms to a size that istoo large to fit through thetube top of the anchor.

Double-Headed Double HelixEarth AnchorUse this anchor in coarse gravel andcobble soils or medium dense coarsesands, sandy gravels, or very stiff siltsand clays. (Class II & III soils)

Slab AnchorsA Double-Headed Slab Anchor is used when an anchorneeds to be installed into poured concrete. The hook atthe base of the anchor is wrapped around the horizontalrebar in the poured concrete slab. The concrete is pouredaround the anchor with the top exposed for attachmentof the tie-down straps.

Tie-down StrapsTie-down straps are used at the base of the manufacturedhome and can be tied over the top. The most commonfailure is “pullout” of the ground anchor. To avoid this,cast the anchor into a concrete “deadman.”

Double HeadedRock Anchor

Double HeadedDouble HelixEarth Anchor

NFIP RegulationsIn order for manufactured homeowners

located in Special Flood Hazard Areas(SFHA) to be eligible for NFIP flood

insurance, their home must have the lowestfloor elevated to or above the Base Flood

Elevation (BFE). It must also be able to resistfloatation, collapse, or lateral movement by means of

one of the following methods:

1. Use of over the top or frame ties to ground anchors.

2. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations forsecuring your home.

3. Be in compliance with the community’s floodplainmanagement requirements.

The only time when these rules don’t apply is when amanufactured home on a permanent foundation hasbeen continuously insured by the NFIP on the samesite since September 30, 1982.

JEFF

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JEFFREY MARKHAM – FEMA

Slab Anchor

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If your manufactured home had flood waters inside thestructure for a short period of time, it may be possible tominimize the amount of structural damage by quicklyremoving the wet materials and drying out the structure.If the insulation under your manufactured home gotwet from flood waters, it’s important that the structure isthoroughly dried. Wet insulation can wick moisture intothe flooring, causing warping and structural problems.

The following is a list of suggested actions to takeimmediately after flooding has occurred. Note thatrepairs to manufactured homes in Washington mustcomply with building codes and certifications asestablished by the Washington State Department ofLabor and Industries (L&I).

• Have gas line systems re-tested for leakage.

• Remove skirting around home to allow drying.

• Have a registered installer check soils around footingsfor washout or scouring, check shims and piers forstability, check anchors (if installed) for stability fromsoil withdrawal.

• Check drain/waste lines for proper slope and leaks.

• Remove bottom board (belly paper) to allow dryingof insulation, decking, structural lumber. If necessary,replace damaged insulation and belly paper withsimilar material.

• Loosen siding or sheathing to allow for drying ofconstruction materials and insulation in order to avoiddecay and bacterial growth.

• Check for water in ductwork and remove.

• Have an electrical contractor check all affectedelectrical system items for damage.

• Check and clean water lines.

• Check furnace.

• Check water heater.

In some cases, if water did not touch the bottom of themanufactured home proper, only footings, piers, andanchors may require inspection for damages. If manufac-tured home owners have questions concerning itemsthey should have checked, they may contactWashington State L&I at the website listed below; thenclick on “Factory Assembled Structures.”

www.lni.wa.gov/scs

Minimizing Flood Damage to Manufactured Homes

Do I Need to Elevate as Part of theRepair Work?Just like a stick frame house, a manufactured home mayneed to be elevated so that the lowest floor of the unit isat or above the 100-year flood level. This applies if thehome has been “substantially damaged” and is located ina designated floodplain. “Substantial damage” meansthat it will cost more than 50% of the pre-disastermarket value of the structure to make the necessaryrepairs to the unit. The Washington State Department ofLabor and Industries (L&I) has the responsibility to helpyou determine if your manufactured home meets the“substantial damage” criteria.

Do I Need A Permit to Make Repairs?If your foundation was damaged, or water got into theunderside of the housing unit (or higher), you must getan inspection for repairs made to your property.

Call your local building department if you areresetting the foundation or re-anchoring your dwellingunit to the ground.

If you are making repairs to the prefabricated dwellingunit you must call Washington State L&I for permitsand necessary inspections.

Repairing Your Manufactured Home

Any electricalwire exposed toflood watersshould betested by alicensedelectricianbefore the mainpower can bereconnected

If walls are wet, remove interioror exterior wall covering andremove wet insulation up to onefoot above the high water mark.

Remove all wet floor coverings(carpets and Pads)

Remove enoughskirting to allowaccess andadequateventilation

Disconnect main powerbefore attempting anywork on the structure orelectrical system.

Cut awaymaterial coveringthe insulation.Remove all wetinsulation fromthe undersideof the Structure.

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Figure 2: Lifting beams are placed under bearing walls andposts. The house is uniformly lifted usinghydraulic jacks.

Figure 1: I-beams are placed under lifting points perpen-

dicular to floor joists with a second set beneath

for uniform lifting.

Is It Possible toRelocate MyHouse?Yes! Whether you relocate just your family and belong-ings or you choose to move your entire house structure,relocation out of the floodplain is the retrofittingtechnique that can offer the greatest security from futureflooding. Moving the whole building away from dangercan also assure that another family will not be in adisastrous situation in the future. Relocation relieves thehomeowner from future anxiety about flooding,eliminates flood insurance payments, and assurescontinuity in people’s lives during future flood events.

The first stages of relocation are similar to those usedfor elevation. Once the house is elevated, instead ofputting it back down on a raised foundation, it is placedon a heavy duty truck bed, transported to a new site outof the floodplain, and set down on a new conventionalfoundation.

ConsiderationsIf your present lot has a good building location onhigher ground, you can plan to put the structure at thatlocation. You may need to purchase a new lot if yourexisting site is completely in the floodplain. Be certainthe site is accessible and the pathway is clear to move theexisting structure. Also, make sure utilities are availableand proper permits have been obtained. A house mustalso be in sound structural condition in order to bemoved. A house in poor condition will need so muchbracing that moving it may become financially impracti-cal. Consult a building professional if you are uncertainabout the condition of your structure. Single-story framehouses over a crawlspace or basement are the easiest torelocate, while homes that are slab-on-grade or multi-story are more difficult. It is feasible to move even theheaviest houses, such as those of brick or block, or verylarge ones, though this will generally be more expensive.

Moving a house is a complex operation that must bedone by a professional. There are professional contractorswho specialize in house moving. They understand theissues involved and know how to coordinate the project.Obtain bids from several house movers and contractors.

Basic Steps in Elevating a Building:

1. Have appropriate professionals disconnect all utilities.

2. Hire a professional house mover to disconnect yourhouse from the existing foundation, jack it up to thenew height and provide a temporary foundation.

3. Have the utilitiestemporarily reconnectedso the house is livablewhile foundation work isdone.

4. Build a temporary accessstair to meet the newheight.

5. Build a new, permanentfoundation.

6. Have the house moverlower the house onto thenew foundation andconnect the anchor bolts.

7. Have the utilitiespermanently recon-nected.

8. Build a new, permanentaccess stair and landing.

Home Elevation: Where Do I Start ?help you design your new foundation and obtain apermit from your building department. Because the newfoundation will be in the floodwaters, it is extremelyimportant that it be structurally designed to withstandlateral (sideways) forces such as fast-flowing currents andthe impact of waterborne debris.

How high should I elevate my home?It depends on your reason for raising it. If the localagency responsible for zoning and issuing buildingpermits for your property is participating in the NFIP,the lowest acceptable elevation for your house will bethat equal to the elevation of the 100-year flood (a floodthat has a probability of occurrence in any year equal toone percent). You will need to obtain the services of aprofessional surveyor to locate and certify the elevationof the 100-year flood at your house.

Some local zoning agencies have elevation require-ments that exceed those for the 100-year flood. Forinstance, they may require an elevation equal to the100-year flood plus one foot (or some other value) or anelevation equal to that observed for an historical flood. Ifyour local agency requires this, the procedure fordetermining the acceptable elevation for your house isthe same as given above. If your local agency requiresyour house to be elevated to a height equal to that of ahistorical flood, they will have to provide that elevation

to you. You will then need to obtain the services of aprofessional surveyor to locate and certify that elevationat your house.

Finally, you may desire to elevate your house to somelevel above that required by your local zoning agency.You should be aware that any flood elevation given foryour house may be exceeded by a particular flood forseveral reasons. First, the magnitude (amount of waterflowing) of the 100-year flood may increase as moreyears of data are collected and statistical analyses of floodevents are revised. Second, the analysis of the 100-yearflood elevations shown for the river responsible forflooding of your property is based on channel conditionsat the time of the analysis. If the channel conditions havechanged since the analysis, the elevation of the 100-yearflood given for your house may also have changed byseveral inches. Third, the analysis of the 100-year floodfor the river is based on an inexact science, and theelevations given for your house may not be precise.Fourth, flood levels at your house may rise above thelevels required by your local zoning agency due to log,debris, or ice jams downstream from your house.

Because of all the reasons cited above, you may wantto elevate your house using a “factor of safety” equal toone or more feet above the elevation required by yourlocal zoning agency. It is worth noting that in manyinstances, the difference between the 100-year flood andthe 500-year flood (a flood having a probability ofoccurrence in any year of 0.2 percent) is less than onefoot. Furthermore the savings on flood insurance canexceed 60 percent through elevation. Adding this “factorof safety” may protect your house against floods withextreme probabilities of occurrence, provided log, debris,or ice jams don’t occur.

Most types of homes can be elevated above floodwaters,including wood frame, brick, slab-on-grade, crawlspace orhomes with basements. Elevation is an extremely reliableflood proofing method and requires little humanintervention to prepare for a flood event. The floorelevation height should be set at a recommended safetymargin above the 100-year flood level. Some buildingsmay be elevated over 9 feet above their existing floorlevels. In such an extreme case the new lower level wouldprobably be used as a garage. In all cases, a new entry stairand front porch is built to meet the new height. Elevatinga home requires use of professional plumbers, electricians,house movers, contractors, and structural engineers to

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Moving your home is one way to avoid flooding.

Coastal home elevated to avoid future flooding.

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How Do I Hire a Contractor?SleuthingIf you have been satisfied with work done before by alocal licensed contractor, you may want to use that firm.If you haven’t used a contractor before, or if you wereunhappy with a previous experience, you may have todo some investigating to increase your chances of gettinga reliable professional.

• Contact the Washington Department of Labor andIndustries. You can ask them if a particular contractoris registered to do business in Washington State. Theycan also inform you of local and state law regardingcontracting and construction. For more informationvisit their contractors website at:

www.lni.wa.gov/scs/contractors

• Ask the contractor for proof of insurance. Insurance isusually required by the state and should include acompletion bond, disability and worker’s compensa-tion insurance. Otherwise, you may be liable foraccidents occurring on your property.

• Check on the firm’s reputation. Ask the local BetterBusiness Bureau, home builders association, orbuilding trades council. They may be able to tell youif the firm has had unanswered complaints filedagainst it. Also, ask for references. Reputable contrac-tors should be willing to provide names of previouscustomers. Contact some of them and ask how wellthey were satisfied with the job done.

Get it in writingNo matter how well you know thecontractor or how much you trusthim/her, get everything relatedto the job in writing.

• Get a written estimate. You will need to give thecontractor a written scope of work. This shouldinclude everything you expect the contractor to do.Be sure to be very thorough with your work requestand have plans and materials specified. The contractorwill need to know exactly what materials he will beexpected to purchase on your behalf and specificallyhow much of the labor you expect him to complete.Some contractors may charge a fee for an estimate.

• Get more than one contractor to give you an estimatefor the job. Even with the same work description youwill find that every contractor will give you a differentprice. When comparing estimates look at them closelyand be sure each contractor is pricing out the samework and materials for you.

• Obtain a contract. The contract should be completeand clearly state all the work, costs, and paymentschedule. Never sign a blank contract or one withblank spaces. It may be worthwhile to have yourattorney look it over if a lot of money is involved.

• Ask for guarantees. Any guarantees from the contrac-tor should be written into the contract. It shouldinclude what is guaranteed, who is responsible for theguarantee (dealer, contractor, manufacturer), and thelength of time the guarantee is valid.

• Get a final contract. A signedcontract is binding on bothyou and the contractor. Don’tsign completion papers ormake the final payment untilthe work is completed to yoursatisfaction and approved byyour local building inspector.

• Beware if you are asked to pay cash on the spotinstead of a check made out to the contractingcompany. A reasonable down payment is up to 30%of the total project cost.

• Your contractor should call you or a qualified observerto inspect hidden work (e.g., sewers or basement wall)before it is covered over. Most building departmentsmust inspect electrical and plumbing lines before thewalls are covered with wallboard or paneling.

• To register a complaint about a contractor, call theWashington State Attorney General’s ConsumerProtection Hotline at (800) 551-4636.

Beware of Disreputable Activities

Building PermitsLocal codes generally require a building permit beforeyou make repairs or flood proofing upgrades to yourstructure. Usually you need to get a permit for electricalwork, plumbing, and repairs for structural damage (suchas foundations and exterior walls).

Because your property may be located in a designatedfloodplain you will also want to check with the permitdepartment before constructing any floodwalls or bermsin your landscaping. Your permits department will havemaps called Flood Insurance Rate Maps (FIRMs) thatwill show the floodplain in your community. This floodarea is known as the Special Flood Hazard Area (SFHA).

The National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), andmost local and state building codes require that abuilding in the floodplain that is substantially damagedor substantially improved be treated as new construc-tion. The lowest floor must be elevated to or above thebase flood (100-year flood protection) elevation.

Substantial damage means that the cost to restore yourhouse to its “before damaged” condition would equal orexceed fifty percent (50%) of the market value of yourhouse before the damage occurred. Substantial improve-ment means any reconstruction, rehabilitation, addition,or other improvement of a structure, the cost of whichequals or exceeds fifty percent (50%) of the market valueof the structure before the start of construction of theimprovement.

Combining a repair with an improvement where thetotal cost equals or exceeds fifty percent (50%) of themarket value of your house before the damage occurredwill also trigger the requirement to elevate.

Areas recovering from floods are often prime targetsfor less-than-honest business activities. Here are somepoints to help safeguard against such practices.

• Beware of “special deals” offered after a disaster bycontractors you don’t know.

• Beware of unknown contractors wanting to useyour house as a “model home.”

• Do not sign any contract under pressure by asalesperson. Federal law requires a three daycooling-off period for unsolicited door-to-doorsales of more than $25. If you choose to cancelsuch a contract within three business days ofsigning it, send your cancellation by registeredmail.

SuccessfulFlood Fight

Historically, Washington communities have successfullyrallied together to save their town and protect theirhomes and businesses from washing away. This recentflood was a perfect example of this community spirit.Sand bagging is an important tool in our “flood fight”strategies, but it is only one of many tools for reducingthe threat of floods. Every community at risk fromfloods also needs to include other more permanentmitigation measures for protecting their homes.

We have all heard of sand bag structures failing orbeing overtopped by floodwaters. As well as being adangerous operation, there are also unintended conse-quences of building floodwalls with sandbags. Divertingwater from one point along a river affects other areasupstream and downstream. Unfortunately, thesechanges in the flow of water created by flood fightingwalls often cause tragic consequences in other communi-ties. Like a pinball machine, deflected water moveselsewhere until it enters a new area causing damage tohomes and businesses that were previously safe.

For example, a permanent solution for protectingyour community could be open space that can safelystore the excess floodwaters or relocating structures thatare habitually flooded. Whether you live in a floodplainor live on city streets that flood, incorporating saferbuilding standards, relocating, elevating, and purchasingflood insurance can avoid damages. These permanentsteps will reduce your risk and protect your property. Nomatter what protective measure your community uses tofight floods, protect yourself by purchasing andmaintaining flood insurance.

Sandbag wall in Mount Vernon, Washington

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Lookout forLandslidesBesides flooding, rainy weather can induce anotherdisastrous problem: landslides. By looking for commonindicators you can determine if your property is prone tosliding. Find where the water is coming from. Get out inthe rain and check areas like hill slopes, gullies, drivewayand street drainage, roof gutters and downspouts. Next,see where the flow originates and where it goes. Concen-trated flow can cause great damage.

Wet, Weak, & Steep – Slope failure problems are causedby any combination of water saturation and flow, weak,heavy earth materials, and steep slopes. Remember, wateris the most common trigger of slope failure!

Drainage – Channels, streams, gullying, ponding, anderosion on hills all indicate potential slope problems.Road and driveway drains, gutters, down spouts andother drainage can concentrate and accelerate flow.Ground saturation and concentrated velocity flow are amajor cause of slope problems and landslide triggering.

Debris – Deposition of soils and vegetation at the baseof slopes indicate possible erosion, flow, and creep fromground cover above.

Vegetation – Vegetation can indicate slope conditions.Bare slopes may show erosion and sliding. Trees thatbend downhill show creep of upper soils. Trees tiltinguphill may show deep rotational landsliding. Patches ofyounger vegetation may show former slope failure.Horsetail ferns or other moisture craving plants oftenindicate saturated ground and springs.

Deformed Structures – Foundation cracks; doors andwindows out of line or sticking; tilted floors; sagging

decks; cracks in masonry; cracks in driveways androads; gaps between floors and walls;

failing retaining walls; tilted powerpoles. These are all signs of slope

instability.

Loose Fill – Loose fill at the topof a slope due to yard waste,

“cut & fill,” land grading,or other process can

aggravate slopeinstability.

Bank StabilizationBanks that are steep and susceptible to landslides, or arealready sloughing off and encroaching upon a structure,are in need of a bank stabilization effort. Many differentlevels of protection are possible and it is best to consultwith a geotechnical or structural engineer if you are in ahazardous area.

Interceptor DrainInterceptor drains are installed horizontally along a slide-prone hillside. They effectively “intercept” the waterflowing down the hillside and divert it away from theweakest part of the hill. Interceptor drains are createdusing the following steps:

1. Excavate trench into impermeable soil layer.

2. Lay geotexile into trench. (Geotextile is a syntheticfabric designed to retain soil while allowing water toflow through it.)

3. Place gravel into trench and extend gravel height tothe maximum anticipated water level.

4. Overlap geotexile on top of gravel.

5. Backfill with excavated soil.

VegetationOn geotechnical or slope areas where there is no threat tolife or structures, a vegetation planting plan may be themost reasonable approach. The different types of rootsystems that plants have can strengthen the cohesion ofsoils and bind the soil structure together into a largerunit. This can add resistance to potential landslide areas.Shallow roots can stabilize the top layer of soil, whiledeep tap or lateral root networks can strengthen thelower base layers. Many plants are particularly useful forbank stabilization. Your local nursery will be able torecommend plants that grow well in your climate andparticular soils conditions.

Concrete Retaining WallsConcrete retaining walls can be constructed to withstanda large variety of structural loading conditions. They areparticularly useful in steep situations where protection isneeded close to the top or base of a slope. The strengthof the retaining wall is highly dependent upon thestrength of the materials it is made of and the manner inwhich they are put together. Because of the design detailrequired for each situation, a structural or geotechnicalengineer should be consulted when a concrete retainingwall is going to be used.

Rock WallsRock walls are essentially gravity walls made of stackedlarge rock. They primarily provide erosion protectionand limited earth support. Slope, rock depth and wallheight are critical to the stability of rock walls. Therefore,they should generally be limited to 15 feet or less inheight and should be installed by professional rockerylandscape installers. Any rock walls higher than 15 feetshould be designed by engineers.

Stabilizing Your Property

Concrete Retaining Wall

Geotextile

Interceptor Drain

Permeable Soil

RelativelyImpermeable Soil

PerforatedDrainage Pipe

Backfill

Geotextile

Gravel

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Recent flooding in the Northwest was not limited to themajor rivers and floodplains. In fact, urban flooding alsoposed a significant hazard and caused damage. In cities,paved streets, and other impervious surfaces preventnatural absorption into the ground. Storm water runsfrom hard surfaces such as rooftops, paved streets,highways, and parking lots directly into sewer systemsthat quickly become inundated causing them to backup.As development increases, more of the natural absorp-tion process of the ground is diminished. The result ismore water being channeled into sewer lines than can beprocessed causing an urban flood.

Innovation in urban flood mitigation is most evidentin the form of Low Impact Development (LID). LIDattempts to restore the natural drainage function byencouraging localized treatment of water on site at bothresidential and nonresidential structures. Instead ofchanneling rain/storm runoff directly into municipaldrains, Low Impact Development uses natural absorp-tion by way of vegetated swales, smaller retention ponds,and efficient use of non-impervious ground on a site bysite basis. It has been described as “rain water harvesting”because it uses the water on site (either through rainbarrel storage, rain gardens, or natural ground filtrationto intended locations away from the foundation). Byreducing the amount of water to be handled by thesewer system, and reducing the amount of non-treatedrunoff that enters natural waterways, LID promotes localflood mitigation.

There are many benefits of LID. It mitigates urbanflooding, preserves natural landscape features byminimizing environmental disturbance; reduces theeffect of hard surfaces, and facilitates localized retentionand infiltration opportunities. It is also recognized by thestate of Washington (RCW 35.67.020 (3)) as means of

PreventingFlooding AroundYour HomeThere are a wide range of steps you can take aroundyour property to reduce the impact of stormwater andeven reduce the chances of floodwaters entering yourhome.

Storm DrainsTake time to clean out the storm drains along your street.Keep sticks, lawn clippings, leaves and other debris awayfrom creeks. Take advantage of yard waste collectionservices offered in your community.

Depression GardeningWhen possible, use the lowest point on your propertyfor planting a garden. Let gravity help you to keep yourgarden green.

Rain BarrelsRain barrels collect rain from your roof. It is free waterthat you can use in the summer months around youryard. It also helps keep the ground around your homefrom getting oversaturated.

reducing building costs while protecting natural habitatalong streams and local waterways. In conjunction withNational Flood Insurance Program’s, Community RatingSystem (CRS) as well as FEMA Region 10’s, HigherRegulatory Standards, local homeowners and electedofficials can further reduce the cost of flood insurancecommunity wide while improving the environment. Formore information about LID practices, visit:

http://www.psat.wa.gov/Programs/LID.htm

Despite being inundated with more water than it wasbuilt to accommodate, Meadowbrook Pond, functionedas designed during the October 2003 flooding in theCity of Seattle. Located at NE 107th and 35th NE, nearthe confluence of the north and south branches ofThornton Creek, Meadowbrook Pond is a Seattle PublicUtility urban flood control project completed in 1998.It resembles a natural functioning wetland that reducesneighborhood flooding near the mouth of Seattle’slargest watershed (19 square miles). By capturingincreased creek flow partially resulting from increasedimpervious or “hard surface” runoff, it mitigates urbanflooding while providing a scenic, natural environmentfor neighborhood residents. Similar to a naturallyfunctioning floodplain, this city run facility improves

Efforts at Meadowbrook PondReduce Flooding

local fish and wildlife habitat and provides storagespace for natural flooding. It also serves as aneducational tool for local students and communitymembers interested in watershed ecology.

Projects like Meadowbrook Pond reduceflooding. They highlight the success of newinnovations in local flood mitigation. Locatedwithin major cities, these micro-man-madefloodplains incorporate natural riverineprocesses, education, and flood control intothe overall function of the site. For moreinformation about Meadowbrook visit:

http://www.seattle.gov/util/planning/meadowbrook/index.htm

If you are a residentof Seattle andsuffered flooddamage, floodinsurance anddisaster assistance areavailable. To receiveSeattle EmergencyManagement’sbrochure “A PracticalGuide to DisasterRecovery Assistance”please call (206) 233-5076 or view it online at:

www.seattle.gov/emergency_mgt/pdf/DisasterRecoverybrochureSeattle.pdf

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What is Urban Flooding?

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Meadowbrook Pond was created by Seattle Public Utilities to reduce flooding andeducate the public.

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Description of hazards

Vulnerability to assets

Impacts to assets

Estimate potential losses

Analyze development trends

� LocationExtentPrevious occurencesHazard event probability

(optional)

(optional)

Risk Assessment201.6 c[ ][2]

Identify mitigation goals

Identify objectives

Propose mitigation actions & projects

Prioritization process

Cost/benefit analysis utilization

Implementation options

Administration process

(optional)

� Actions for existing buildings, infrastructure& critical facilitiesActions for future buildings, infrastructure& critical facilities

Mitigation Strategy201.6 c[ ][3]

Description of monitoring, evaluating,and updating process

Schedule for plan maintenance

Continued public involvement

Incorporation process with other plans

Plan Maintenance201.6 c[ ][4]

Plan adoption

Adoption documentation

Adoption201.6 c[ ][5]

Submit plan to for review

Pre-adoption review

Resubmit plan every 5 years

SHMO

FEMA (optional)

Plan Review201.6 [d]

Planning ProcessDescription of Process

Contributors

Public Involvement

201.6 c[ ]

Plan Development& ApprovalChecklistThis checklist identifies the required and optionalcontent of a local hazard mitigation plan, as outlined in44 CFR Part 201.6. Utilize the checklist to develop ahazard mitigation plan and/or to verify the requiredcontent is included in the plan prior to submitting it forreview and approval.

Hazard mitigation planning benefits communities byreducing the potential for future disaster-relateddamages. Reducing damages improves life safety,economic security, and quality of life.

Communities must have a FEMA-approved hazardmitigation plan in place before applying for FEMAmitigation project grants. There are two mitigation grantprograms available through FEMA:

The Pre-Disaster Mitigation Grant Program,authorized by the Disaster Mitigation Act of 2000.Under this program, communities compete nationwidefor grants to fund pre-identified mitigation projects.

Hazard Mitigation PlansThe Hazard Mitigation Grant Program (HMGP) usesfunding from federally declared disaster dollars formitigation projects identified by the state. In order to beeligible for HMGP funding after November 1, 2004,states and local entities will be required to have anapproved mitigation plan.

To receive FEMA approval, a plan must contain aplanning process, risk assessment, mitigation strategy,and plan maintenance. It must be adopted by the localgoverning body and be submitted through the statehazard mitigation office for FEMA review and approval.

For more information on hazard mitigation planningin Washington State, contact Marty Best, State HazardMitigation Programs Manager, at M.Best@emd.gov.

Planning ResourcesThe Federal Emergency Management Agency hasdeveloped a series of “how-to” guides on developingstate and local hazard mitigation plans:

• Getting Started

• Understanding Your Community’s Risk

• Developing the Mitigation Plan

• Integrating Human-Caused Hazards Into MitigationPlanning

Copies of the guides may be downloaded from FEMA’swebsite at www.fema.gov/fima/planhowto.shtm, or toobtain paper copies or electronic copies on CD, call(800) 480-2520.

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The Skagit Natural Hazard Mitigation SteeringCommittee began developing the plan in May 2002.The committee received funding from a grant providedby Washington Emergency Management Division andFEMA. In a little over a year, the committee broughttogether participating stakeholders and citizens todevelop an extensive plan addressing fifty-four jurisdic-tions in Skagit County

The spirit of the plan is captured in this excerpt: “It ishoped that the spirit of inter-jurisdictional cooperationthat has begun with this planning effort will continue inthe years to come, thereby providing further benefits toall jurisdictions and agencies within the county, as well asthe citizens these jurisdictions and agencies serve.”

Just-in-Time Planning in SkagitWith near-perfect timing, Skagit County adopted aNatural Hazard Mitigation Plan just a month prior tothe record flooding that took place there in October.This plan provides risk information, strategies, andmitigation measures that will aid in the recovery andreduce the risk of future damages.

Skagit County’s Natural Hazard Mitigation Plan wasthe culmination of a process that began with thecounty’s Emergency management Plan. The EmergencyManagement Plan coordinates the efforts of countyagencies in preparing for and responding to natural andman-made hazards. The Natural Hazard Mitigation Planidentifies the risks and makes recommendations thatwould reduce future disaster damages.

Developing theMitigation Plan: One ofseveral “how-to” guideson mitigation planningavailable from FEMA.