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RX Wildlife

Wildlife sites fromHastings to Romney Marsh

www.RXwildlife.org.ukRX is the fishing boat registration used at Dungeness, Rye and Hastings

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Numbers on map refer to the page number for that site

Reproduced from the Ordnance Survey Mapping with the permission of the Controller ofHM Stationery Office.

Crown Copyright. East Sussex County Council. 2005. 100019601.14

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Contents Introduction

Within 20km of Rye there is a variety and quality ofcountryside that is hard to beat.

This booklet describes sites you can visit to see some of thespecial plants and animals, but of course some wildlife can befound anywhere in the area – you just have to start looking.

Some of the sites listed have leaflets, web sites, informationcentres and birdwatching hides to help you get the most out ofyour visit. Furthermore, there is a range of activities to help youlearn more, from guided walks, to family events, illustrated talksand organisations to join – see page 47 for further details.

Tucked away in this little corner of East Sussex and Kent, theclimate is generally mild and sunny with a low rainfall. It rarelysnows, but it is often windy. This benign climate andgeographical position means that some species just reach usfrom the continent – we are on the edge of their range.

Introduction

Introduction 3Wildlife highlights month by month 6

Coastal sitesCombe Haven Valley & Glyne Gap Beach 12Hastings Country Park 14Pett Level 17Rye Harbour Nature Reserve 19Rye Harbour Farm and gravel pits 22Rye Saltings 24Camber Road Pits 25Camber Sands & Scotney Gravel Pits 26Lydd Ranges 27Dungeness National Nature Reserve 28RSPB Dungeness Nature Reserve 31Dungeness Bird Observatory 33Lade Pit 34

Inland sitesBrede Valley 35Brede High Woods 36Beauport Park, Hastings 37Guestling Wood 38Flatropers Wood 39Winchelsea 40Tillingham Valley 41

Footpaths 42Cycle routes 45Shingle extraction 46Further information 47

Contents

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There is a mosaic of many different habitats. Some, likevegetated shingle, saltmarsh, saline lagoons andreedbeds, are rare and declining in Britain and Europe,so we have special responsibility to protect andmanage them for their wildlife.

The coast ranges from the sandstone cliffs at Hastings with itswooded gills and cliff top heathland, through the ancientsubmerged forest of Pett Level, then the shingle beaches ofRye Harbour, to the muddy estuary of the river Rother, and thesandy beach and dunes at Camber to the great mass ofshingle pebbles that forms the Dungeness peninsula.Throughout the area vast expanses of open water have beencreated by the extraction of shingle. This has created valuablewetland habitats, including saline lagoons and reedbed.

Inland there are the five river valleys of the Marsham, Pannel,Brede, Tillingham and Rother, plus the expanse of wetgrassland of Pett Level and Romney Marsh, the 45km of theRoyal Military Canal and hundreds of kilometres of ditches. Onthe higher ground there is heathland at Hastings Country Parkand several great woods at Brede, Guestling and Beckley.Farming is a significant influence in this landscape with sheepstill dominating, but arable crops and orchards add to themosaic of habitats.

This wildlife-rich countryside is also full of history, withdefences against invasion – castles, Martello towers, listeningmirrors and blockhouses – and defences against the sea.There are harbours that have silted up and tales of smuggling.It has a rich maritime history, including a tragic lifeboat disaster

Wildlife designationsThere are several national and international designations forwildlife sites in the area and in the text they are abbreviated.SSSI Site of Special Scientific Interest, a national

designation for wildlife and/or geology interest.SPA Special Protection Area, a European designation

under the Bird Directive.SAC Special Area for Conservation, a European

designation under the Habitats Directive.LNR Local Nature Reserve.NNR National Nature Reserve.AONB Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

AreaIn this guide we have chosen to use hectares (ha.) but youcan mutiply by 2.5 to convert to acres.

Introduction Introduction

Introduction Introduction

at Rye Harbour, with the loss of 17 men with the MaryStanford in 1928.

This is an area to enjoy all year round: every season has itswildlife highlights. During winter storms the coast can be anexciting place, with waves crashing on to the beaches bringingall sorts of flotsam and jetsam. Cold weather may bring manybirds from the continent, seeking our milder climate. Springand autumn are the main periods of bird migration when it iseasy to find many species, sometimes over a hundred! Finesummer weekends can make the coast, especially at Camber,very busy, but even at these times it is possible to find solitudeand wildlife along the network of footpaths inland.

Wildlife highlights month by month Wildlife highlights month by month

MarchEarly in the month the first returning summer birds such asChiffchaff, Wheatear and Sandwich Tern can be seen, then afew Sand Martins and Swallows.Offshore there may be a spectacular migration of Brent Geeseand other wildfowl.The first butterflies and bumblebees are busy feeding on earlyflowers such as willow.By the end of March, birds such as Grey Heron, Cormorantand Mistle Thrush will have young.

AprilThis is the main month when lambs are born on the marsh,where their bleating forms a nocturnal chorus with the MarshFrogs, which start calling (or laughing) by the end of the month.Our outstanding seabird colonies, at Dungeness and RyeHarbour are soon established and the wetlands echo to theircalls too. Common, Sandwich and Little Tern all findstrongholds here, but our gull colonies should not be ignored.The northward passage of waders is well under way, withWhimbrel numbers peaking at over 300 in the last days of themonth.Bushes near the coast are sometimes covered with whitewebs of the hairy caterpillars of the Brown-tail Moth – do nottouch as they may irritate your skin. Leave them for theCuckoos to eat!Many woodlands are carpeted by spectacular displays ofBluebells and Wood Anemones and a few have Early PurpleOrchids.Look out for Yellow Archangel in hedgerows.

January and FebruaryWinter brings ducks, including Smew to the larger pits.Mute Swan and Bewick’s Swan numbers peak on oil-seedrape fields.Bittern and Water Rail frequent the reedbeds and Cetti’sWarblers often call from deep inside the thickets.Offshore rafts of Red-throated Diver, Great Crested Grebe,Common Scoter and auks can be found all along the coast.On the cliffs at Hastings and Pett, Fulmar return to theirledges.On warm days Skylark and Ringed Plover are often seendisplaying and rookeries are noisy with nest building. But, evenon cold and windy days, woodlands can be pleasantlysheltered and you may find wintering Chiffchaff, Firecrest andBlackcap.

6 7Wildlife highlights Wildlife highlights

Skylark Ringed Plover

MayWith Swift and Spotted Flycatcher arriving in the first few days,all of the summer migrants are back, and bird breeding is in fullswing. Everywhere is full of the sounds of birds, especially atdawn. Chiffchaff, Skylark and Cuckoo are the easy ones torecognise. But Nightingale, Blackcap, Whitethroat and GardenWarbler are also singing away. Young waders, such asLapwings and Redshank, appear in the wetlands and on theshingle and Ringed Plover and Oystercatcher chicks can beseen. With hungry young to feed Barn Owls are often outhunting in the evening light.Many moths are on the wing, including the day-flying Silver Y,Burnet and Cinnabar moths. Hairy Dragonfly is the first toappear on the wing. Sea Kale is bursting into flower creatinggreat white domes on the coastal shingle and the hedgerowsare full of flowering Hawthorn.Medicinal Leeches are actively searching vertebrate blood inthe ditches and gravel pits, including frogs and geese.

JuneBreeding Black Redstart, Peregrine, Rock Pipit and DartfordWarbler are on the cliffs and cliff-top areas of HastingsCountry Park.The seabirds will have chicks now and the endless toing andfroing of the adult birds adds to the already noisy colonies.Numbers of Lapwing and Curlew increasing as birds alreadyreturn from their northern breeding grounds.This is a special month for flowers and many orchids will be inflower, including Bee and Pyramidal.

JulyOften regarded as a leanmonth for birds, but ingood years there may bemany young seabirds.There are many flowers outand its is a good time forMedicinal Leeches andWater Voles.

AugustThis is the best time to look for migrant waders as they travelfrom the Arctic to Africa. This is the month when all manner ofoff-course migrants turn up, though many are in confusingyoung or transitional plumage. Ducks too are moulting andthus in a drab plumage of browns and buffs. Late floweringplants include the very rare Least Lettuce at Rye Harbour andthe more common Viper’s Bugloss.Bumble bee colonies are large and active with lots of honey,often dug up and raided by Badgers.


Barn Owl


Bee Orchid

SeptemberMany summer birds are departing. They sometimes occur inhuge numbers, with martins and swallows gathering on wiresand the reedbeds full of warblers.A time of plenty, with fruits and berries – try tasting some ofthe wild Blackberries, or the orange fruits of Sea Buckthorn onthe sand dunes.The striking Wasp Spiders are at their largest, swollen witheggs and gorging themselves on grasshoppers and bush-crickets amongst rough grassland and roadside verges.

OctoberOn some mornings, thousands of birds migrate over theheadlands. Large diurnal migration of finches, Meadow Pipits,and wagtails especially noticeable from high ground atHastings Country Park and Pett. The nocturnal migration ofRedwing can be heard by their high-pitched calls. The seedsproduced by flowers on the shingle attract large flocks offinches, especially Greenfinch, Linnet and Goldfinch. Look along the shore after storms to find all sorts of strangeanimals washed up, such as Sea Mouse and Sea Potato. Onthe saltmarsh Rock Pipits return for the winter. This is a goodtime to see Short-eared Owls.Hornbeam woodlands can be a spectacular yellow as theleaves change. Sweet Chestnuts can be gathered from theforest floor.This can be a good time for fungi, but don’t be tempted to trythe field mushrooms unless you know exactly what you arepicking.

November and DecemberLakes begin to fill with wildfowl and flocks of grebes, scotersand divers gather in Rye Bay. Huge flocks of plovers roost onthe levels, rising in amazing unison at the sight of a passingPeregrine or Harrier. Wild geese and swans gather on RomneyMarsh.Migrant thrushes arrive from the sea. Spectacular migration ofWoodpigeons overhead, thousands sometimes tens ofthousands seen flying overhead in large flocks on cold crispmornings in early November.Now that the woods are bare, it is easier to spot birds in thetreetops and Fallow Deer running through the coppices.After the first frosts, you can gather sloes from the hedgerowsto make sloe gin.



Wigeon and Canada Geese

Combe Haven Valley & Glyne Gap Beach Combe Haven Valley & Glyne Gap Beach

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A stunning floodplain valley between Hastings andBexhill.

Filsham Reedbed is one of the largest reedbeds in Sussexand sits within the Combe Haven Valley SSSI. It is a reserve ofthe Sussex Wildlife Trust.Nearby at Glyne Gap there is another small reedbed, lowsandstone cliffs, a vegetated shingle beach and a largeintertidal area.For watching wildlife offshore Galley Hill is an ideal viewpoint.

Habitat, species and seasonsThe valley is a mosaic ofreedbed, fen, grazing marsh,freshwater ditches, willow scruband woodland. In spring andautumn the valley is alive withmigrant birds and rarities such asWoodchat Shrike, Radde’s andDusky Warblers have turned upin recent years. Bearded Tits,Cetti’s Warblers, Water Rail and Little Grebes breed withinFilsham Reedbed. Ruddy Darters, Hairy Dragonflies andVariable Damselflies can be found within the valley duringsummer and later, Migrant and Southern Hawkers can be foundin large numbers. In winter Bitterns can be seen using thereedbed and large flocks of Pied Wagtails roost there at night.At Glyne Gap it is easy to find Purple Sandpipers amongst theTurnstone flock using the intertidal rock to feed. In spring thesandstone cliffs are alive with literally thousands of solitary beesand wasps, and Green Tiger Beetles. Galley Hill is an idealvantage point for watching Harbour Porpoise and BottlenoseDolphin, seabirds and visible migration throughout the year.

Access and facilitiesCar park at Bulverhythe Recreation Ground, bus stop near theentrance to the car park along Bexhill Road. Nearest trainstation West St Leonards (1.5km to the east of BulverhytheRecreation Ground car park). Boardwalk and viewing screenswithin reedbed. Car park at Glyne Gap along Bexhill Road onHastings/Bexhill boundary. Public toilets within car park andcafé on the beach.

Filsham Reedbed

Coastal sites Coastal sites

Cetti’s Warbler

A picturesque area of ancient gill woodland, sandstonecliffs, heathland and farmland, sitting within the HighWeald AONB and the Hastings Cliffs SAC. Spectacularviews from the cliffs overlooking the coastline from Fairlight toDungeness, with views of Folkestone and France on cleardays. This stunning landscape has inspired many artists, mostfamously the Pre-Raphaelites. The cliffs here are rich in fossilsand have produced many specimens of dinosaurs, pterosaurs,turtles, crocodiles and plesiosaurs and is one of only a handfulof sites in the world to have produced early mammal fossils.

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Hastings Country Park Hastings Country Park

Species and seasonsGill woodlands in spring are carpeted in Bluebells, Anemonesand Ramsons. Violet Helleborines and Bird-nest Orchids canalso be found amongst the woodland flora during summer. Thegill woodlands support a healthy population of the decliningDormouse and are part of the national monitoring scheme forthis tree dwelling mammal. In spring and summer the cliffs andcliff-tops are alive with bees, wasps and beetles including theconspicuous Lesser Bloody-nose Beetles, Green Tiger Beetlesand Cerceris wasps. Autumn diurnal migration of MeadowPipits, wagtails and finches is a conspicuous feature on thecliff tops and high ground with hundreds of birds passingoverhead during early morning. Occasionally tens of thousandsof Swallows, House Martins and Sand Martins can be seenflying through, and the site has many excellent vantage pointsfor watching migrating raptors. The scrub and gill woodlandwithin the glens provides excellent habitat to look for scarceand rare migrants during spring and autumn. This is a veryunder-watched site and there is huge potential for discoveringyour own rarities during migration periods.


Green Tiger Beetle Thrift

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Access and facilitiesThere is a bus route from Hastings to Rye that stops at theHelipad Picnic Site and the Firehills entrance to HastingsCountry Park (ask for Fairlight Church). The East Hill lift alongRock-a-Nore road takes you up to the East Hill entrance toHastings Country Park. Car parks along Barley Lane, HelipadPicnic Site along Fairlight Road, and at Horseshoe Quarry andFirehills (entrance along Fairlight Road). There is a small visitorcentre at the Firehills car park. There are two “access for all”trails near the Firehills car park. Toilets are located at the top ofthe East Hill lift, at the Helipad Picnic Site and at HorseshoeQuarry (Firehills). Café near the Firehills car park. Nearest trainstation is Hastings about 1.5km from the East Hill lift.

Ancient wetland protected by a shingle bank for morethan six thousand years, but flooded during World WarII to deter invasion. It is now protected from the sea by alarge man made wall, but it remains a wild expanse full ofsheep and winter waders. From the top of the sea wall youhave a panoramic view of …Pett Shore A beach of sand, rock-pools, prehistoric forest,leading to sandstone cliffs with fossils of shark teeth anddinosaurs.Pett Pools These four pools were excavated in 1947 for clayto build the sea wall and now they provide a safe home forgrebes, ducks, rails, warblers and waders.Pannel Valley (access along Royal Military Canal) Publicfootpaths and bird hides give views over some scrapes. Thereare three public hides. A reserve of the Wetland Trust.

Hastings Country Park Pett Level

Firecrest Pett Level

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Pett Level

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Habitat, species and seasonsWet grassland in winter attracts large flocks of wildfowl,feeding waders, birds of prey and evening roosts of starlings.The ditches that drain the levels are also “wet fences” tocontrol sheep and cattle and are home to Water Voles andMarsh Frogs with plants like Arrowhead and Flowering Rush.The reedbeds are extensive around the pools and in thePannel Valley and are frequented by specialities such asBearded Tit and Cetti’s Warbler, Water Rail, Barn Owl andharriers. In autumn the levels attract great flocks of wagtails,martins and swallows that feed on the abundant insect life,then roost safely in the reedbeds at night.

Access and facilities Excellent views of the pools and level from the roadside, butfrom the top of the sea wall you get to see the shore, cliffs andsea. A good network of public footpaths, so please don’t betempted to explore through other farm gates – it will disturbthe birds and livestock. Toilets and pub are in Pett Levelvillage. General store at Winchelsea Beach.

A mosaic of shingle, shore, saltmarsh, gravel pits andsheep grazing dissected by ditches, with a bit of historyand geography thrown in. The shingle ridges are only 500years old, compared with the 5,000 year old ridges atDungeness. Large areas were excavated for shingle and thishas left a network of gravel pits ranging from the saline lagoonof Ternery Pool to the freshwater of Castle Water.

Rye Harbour Nature Reserve


Wigeon Curlew

Castle Water

Beach Reserve A large shingle beach full of birds andflowers with a level private roadway giving good easy accesson foot. Two birdwatching hides overlook Ternery Pool andanother overlooks the Wader Pool – all accessible to somewheelchairs. Owned by the Environment Agency.

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Rye Harbour Nature Reserve Rye Harbour Nature Reserve

Castle Farm and Water Around Henry VIII’s Camber Castleare ancient shingle ridges and a large gravel pit, home to manywater birds and buzzing with insect life in the warmer months.Castle Water is owned by Sussex Wildlife Trust and the farm isprivately owned.

Habitat, species and seasonsSuch a choice … with more than430 species of flowering plants and270 species of bird. Some are veryrare species that you are unlikely toencounter, but many amazingflowers and birds are easy to find,identify and watch. The greatshingle ridges are home to a wealthof specialised flowers that varieswith distance from the sea. Near

the shore are expanses of bare shingle with Sea Kale and SeaPea, but further inland there is a thin soil that enablesnumerous tiny plants, like Subterranean and Hare’s FootClovers to survive, and in places scrub of gorse and brambleto establish. Great birdwatching all year round, but breedingbirds are exceptional with three species of tern, six ducks, fivewaders, and declining species such as Yellow Wagtail andTurtle Dove. In winter Smew and Bittern are reliable at CastleWater and large flocks of Lapwing, Golden Plover andOystercatcher at the Beach Reserve. Spring and autumn aregood for migrating birds, especially waders. The first few daysof May can be the best, with large flocks of Whimbrel andgodwits and perhaps Black Tern and Little Gull – with someeffort you could find a hundred species in a day.

Access and facilitiesFree introductory booklet available. There is a good network ofpublic and permissive paths, giving good access from Rye,Rye Harbour, Winchelsea Beach and Winchelsea. Manyoptions for circular routes.There is a private road through the Beach Reserve that is goodfor cycles, pushchairs and wheelchairs, but the road is usedby heavy vehicles for sea defence work, mainly onweekdays from October to February.

A large free car park at Rye Harbour village with a shop, café,two pubs and toilet with disabled facilities. Regular bus servicefrom Rye. Information Centre 400m from the car park isopened by volunteers on most days from 10am to 5pm (4pmwinter). Four birdwatching hides, including the one at CastleWater, are accessible to some wheelchairs. The Crittall Hide isfully accessible. Sound loops in two hides and at InformationCentre. Electric wheelchairs and audio tours can be hired, butmust be booked in advance. Contact 01797 227784.

Sea Kale

Bittern Black-headed Gull


A walk along the footpaths provides all year roundinterest. Not part of the Nature Reserve, but full of interest, thegravel pits are stricly private, but good for ducks and grebes,and can be viewed from the public footpath. The fields to thesouth are mostly owned by the Environment Agency and it willbe interesting as they are converted from arable farmland to anew sea defence to protect two villages and industrial areas.This will also enable habitat improvements on a large scale withrestoration of vegetated shingle, re-creation of saltmarsh andcreation of saline lagoons and brackish marsh.

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Rye Harbour Farm and gravel pits Rye Harbour Farm and gravel pits

Habitat, species and seasonsWinter flocks of Corn Buntings, four species of owl, Kestrel,coveys of Grey Partridge and on the large pits flocks of divingduck, mostly Pochard and Tufted Duck, but usually a fewGoldeneye. Bittern are also seen regularly in the fringing reedof the pits. In the spring the first Sedge Warblers, thenCuckoo, Yellow Wagtail, Whitethroat and Reed Warbler are allcommon here and later there can be large flocks of Swift,especially during cool weather in May. Flowers along the trackinclude the tall yellow spikes of Twiggy Mullein, the blue spikesof Viper’s Bugloss and usually a few plants of the poisonousHenbane and Hemlock. In the autumn there is a good crop ofBlackberries and Elderberries. Rye Harbour Farm is the site ofa major sea defence project that will provide improvedprotection for local villages.

Access and facilitiesPlease park in the large car park in Rye Harbour village andkeep to the footpaths. Public footpath extends along the lengthof these two areas and there are several paths leading downto the shore.

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Tufted Duck Yellow Wagtail

Rye Harbour Farm and pits

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Rye Saltings

Very close to Rye, this intertidal area is grazed bysheep that keep the vegetation short – ideal for geese,gulls, ducks and especially waders. At low water thewaders disperse along the rich mud of the Harbour of Rye, butas the tide rises they are forced up on to the saltings whereyou can get a clear view of them. A telescope is especiallyuseful here where you cannot get close views.

Habitat, species and seasonsAutumn and winter are the best times to see large numbers ofbirds here. Lapwings dominate, but there are also many Dunlin,Redshank and more uncommon species like Ruff. It can be thebest place to find rare wintering waders such as CommonSandpiper and Spotted Redshank.

Access and facilitiesWithin easy walking distance of Rye, but you must cross theriver first, then follow the public footpaths – do not venture onto the saltmarsh, it will scare the birds! This route naturallyleads on to Northpoint Pit.

Camber Road Pits

Along the roadside from Rye to Camber there are sixgravel pits with some convenient parking areas and acycle track. The largest is Northpoint Pit, but don’t overlookthe other five if you are looking for ducks, grebes and waders.Northpoint Pit is used for windsurfing, but some wildfowl aretolerant and find quiet places.

Habitat, species and seasonsThe open water is good for diving ducks and grebes,especially in the winter. The margins are good for migrantwaders, especially Greenshank and Common Sandpipers.

Access and facilitiesRoad and cycle track pass close to all pits and it is possible tofollow circular routes using footpath and the cycle track. Thereis roadside parking adjacent to the larger pits.


Curlew at Northpoint Pit

LapwingRedshank

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Camber Sands & Scotney Gravel Pits Lydd Ranges

Camber dunes and shoreA sandy beach with tall dunes behind is bound to attractmany visitors on sunny days and it has all the typical seasideattractions. But if you avoid these busy times you may find aquiet place to watch waders on the beach or insects andflowers in the dunes.

Access and facilitiesSeveral large car parks with options for circular walks taking inthe shore, dunes, pits or even the Rother estuary.


Habitat, species and seasonsIn winter several thousand birds can be present includingWhite-fronted and Bean Geese. It has played host to animpressive list of rarities such as Lesser Scaup and White-headed Duck. The county boundary cuts the pit in half, so becareful when reporting rare birds!

Access and facilitiesBest viewed from the public road and is accessible at alltimes. Parking at several sites off the main road – but takecare. National Cycle Route 2 runs along the south side of thepit and provides good birdwatching access.

Lydd RangesSeawards off the road is the vast expanse of the oldestshingle in the area – 2,000 years since the sea left. It isMinistry of Defence land, so out of bounds to the public, but ispart of the Dungeness SSSI and has some amazing wildlife,including the dark hummocks of the Holmestone Holly wood. Itcan be viewed from the road.

Habitat, species and seasonsThe turf in this area is rich in lichens, but in the early summer themost obvious species is Thrift which turns the shingle pink. Onthe shingle there are patches of low-growing Blackthorn bushes.This is normally a small tree, but at Dungeness the bushes staylow, hugging the shingle. This plant has an alkaline bark and thebushes support numerous lichen species, including some that arerare elsewhere in Kent due to air pollution. Further into theRanges Holly bushes form an unusual type of woodland that isfound nowhere else in the world and is thought to date back toAnglo-Saxon times.

Scotney Gravel PitsA huge gravel pit lying on the border of Kent and EastSussex is well worth a visit especially during the winter monthsfor large numbers of wildlfowl. Areas immediately to the east ofScotney are currently being worked and areas to the west andnorth will be worked in the next few years.

Cerceris wasp Large-flowered Evening Primrose

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Dungeness National Nature Reserve Dungeness National Nature Reserve

Part of the largest area of vegetated shingle in Britain.This is a rare habitat that supports many rare species. Itis of international conservation importance for itsgeomorphology, plant and invertebrate communities and birdlife.This is recognised and protected in large part through itsconservation designations – NNR, SPA and SAC. The NatureReserve is 1031 ha. and includes the RSPB reserve that isdescribed separately. The shingle has a distinctive ridgedappearance, with each ridge being a former shoreline. Viewedfrom above these ridges show you how this site has been builtover the past few centuries by the sea, and the coastline is stillevolving, trying to erode on its southern coast, and build up tothe east. The area has a unique aesthetic appeal and characterthat is attractive to an increasing number of visitors. As part ofthe NNR, the Romney Marsh Countryside Project manages, inagreement with English Nature, land owned by DungenessEstate and Shepway District Council.

Habitat, species and seasonsThis is the youngest area of shingle on the Dungeness peninsulaand has different plants to those found further inland. By theshore, Sea Kale and Babbington’s Orache can be abundant. Aridge or two inland they are replaced by grasses, and furtherinland the grasses are replaced by Broom bushes, which atDungeness grow in a low “spiky” form. Further inland on oldershingle the Brooms die out and are replaced by a mix of low-growing flowering plants, lichens and mosses. Foxgloves may benumerous in this area. Each of these different types ofvegetation supports a different array of insects and spiders,many of them rare. This makes Dungeness one of the best sitesfor these animals in the UK. As an example, the NottinghamCatchfly plants that grow near the old lighthouse are themselvesan uncommon plant, but feeding on them are two even rarermoths, one of which, the White Spot, has its largest Britishpopulation at Dungeness. During the early summer watch out forthe distinctive Wheatear which nests on the shingle beach.The best time to see the vegetation is in May and June when thesite is covered in a succession of flowers – yellow Birds FootTrefoil, blue Viper’s Bugloss, white Sea Kale and red Valerian.Later in the summer dry conditions tend to brown-off thevegetation.


Shingle ridges at Dungeness

Broom bushes

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Access and facilitiesDungeness is a private estate with 90 houses, some havegardens that are not defined by fences. To avoid disturbing theresidents please keep away from these properties and usemarked tracks. The habitat is incredibly fragile and suffers fromtremendous visitor pressure, so please park only in thedesignated places and do not drive or ride across the shingle.There are car parks at Lade, and near the Old Lighthouse atDungeness. The NNR may be approached from Lydd or NewRomney and is found on the road between Lydd andDungeness. Bus service 12 from Folkestone or Lydd stops atthe RSPB reserve entrance on request. Dungeness Point canalso be accessed by the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch LightRailway.

RSPB Dungeness Reserve occupies some 984 ha. ofthe Dungeness peninsula, the largest shingle formationof its kind in Europe. The RSPB manages the restoredgravel pits for the large number of wildfowl that visit in winter,such as Smew, Goldeneye and Pochard and for nestingseabirds such as Common Terns and Black-headed Gulls.Many other species, including waders and warblers, may beseen on their spring and autumn migrations. Some 450species of plant occur here along with a fascinating array ofinsects and other invertebrates (including the MedicinalLeech). The great variety of wildlife at Dungeness and itsstrangely beautiful landscape make it worth a visit at any timeof year.

RSPB Dungeness Nature Reserve


Dungeness National Nature Reserve

Sea Kale Viper’s Bugloss

Shingle pits and vegetation at Dungeness

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Habitat, species and seasonsShingle, restored gravel pits, reedbed, neutral grassland,natural pits/fen. Spring and autumn – Sandwich Tern, Black Tern, Common,Green and Wood Sandpipers, Whimbrel, Wheatear, Whinchat.Summer – Garganey, Common Gull, Common Tern, YellowWagtail, Reed and Sedge Warblers, Whitethroat, Hobby.Winter – Black-necked, Slavonian and Red-necked Grebe,Bittern, Bewick’s Swan, Whooper Swan, Pintail, Goldeneye,Long-tailed Duck, Smew, Kingfisher. Resident – Shoveler,Bearded Tit, Cetti’s Warbler.

Access and facilitiesThe reserve is open from 9am to 9pm (or sunset if earlier).The reserve and centre are closed on December 25 and 26.Reserve entry fees: RSPB and RSPB Wildlife Explorermembers free. There is a charge for non-members using thenature trail. Entry to the Hanson ARC site is free to all. Disabled visitors can drive to four hides on the main site andcan gain access to the Hanson ARC hide via a radar gate. Allhides have wheelchairaccessible windows.Suggested routes: There is acircular walk of two milesstarting at and returning to theVisitor Centre. At the HansonARC site two short linearwalks lead to a hide andviewing screen.

Dungeness Bird Observatory

In the shadow of the Nuclear Power Stations theobservatory is a centre to record birds, especiallyduring migration. Bird ringing and sea watching have beencarried out here since 1952. The Observatory’s main recordingarea is the south-eastern corner of the Dungeness shinglepeninsular. Historically, bird migration studies formed the focusof the work of the observatory but in recent years interestshave extended to include insects and plants of the area. Adaily record is kept of all birds in the area and visitors areencouraged to help in this work. An ongoing ringingprogramme forms an integral part of these studies and ringersare welcome. Special emphasis is given to helping traineeringers widen their ringing experience.

Access and facilitiesThe seawatch hide is really for “Friends of DBO” however inreality no-one is ever turned away. Several locals have keysand there is a key kept for general availability at theObservatory. The key needs to be returned after use. There isinexpensive accommodation available.

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RSPB Dungeness Nature Reserve

Gannets and gulls at “The Patch”Smew

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Lade Pit Brede Valley

Frequented by good numbers of wildfowl, especially inwinter. The pits are also home of the Listening Mirrors,massive and bizarre concrete structures, precursors of radar,that are now scheduled ancient monuments and wereconstructed as part of inter-war experiments to detect aircraft.The Romney Marsh Countryside Project manages the NNR onbehalf of English Nature.

Habitat, species and seasonsDuring the migration seasons Little Gulls and Black Terns arefrequent visitors. The pit supports a particularly largepopulation of the rare and specially protected Medicinal Leech.These animals can feed on human blood but also feed on thelarge numbers of Marsh Frogs and Smooth Newts that occurin this pit. Between Taylor Road and Lade Pit you cross anarea of shingle vegetation where the ridges, denoting formershorelines, are very obvious. The vegetation in this areachanges from coastal grassland into broom scrub.

Access and facilitiesNearest car park is onCoast Drive, Lade, fromwhere visitors shouldwalk along Taylor Roadand walk across thepublic footpath to viewthe South Lake from thecauseway running alongthe edge of the lake.

This valley is a mix of grazing and arable farmland. Thelower reaches towards Winchelsea are wide open greensheep pastures, frequented by Rooks and Lapwing, butthe market garden at Snailham Crossing (TQ 861179) attractsa variety of small birds in winter, when Kingfisher and GreenSandpiper are typical along the ditches. Large corvid roost atGreat Park Wood. Managed wetlands at Road End (TQ 890183) and either side of Brede Bridge attract wildfowland waders. In summer, the hedgerows hold a variety of typicalfarmland birds eg Linnet, Whitethroat, Yellowhammer and TreeSparrow. In spring and autumn, migrants can be found alongCadborough Cliff, and it’s good for blackberries!

Access and facilitiesFrom Rye, Winchelsea, Winchelsea Station, Udimore Church,Brede Bridge, Doleham Halt, Icklesham. The 1066 CountryWalk runs along the south side of the valley, passing theQueen’s Head pub, while Farm Conservation permissivefootpaths give circular walks to include The Plough pub atCock Marling (TQ 884187).

Coastal sites Inland sites

Flowering Rush Brede Valley

3736

A large tract of mixed woodland owned by SouthernWater to protect the catchment of Powdermill Reservoir.Evidence of an industrial past is present in the numerous bell-pits, from which iron-ore was mined, and the hornbeamcoppice, which supplied charcoal for the furnaces. In the late18th and early 19th centuries, gunpowder was manufacturedhere, entailing some spectacular accidents. The reservoir wasbuilt in the 1930s to supply an expanding Hastings withdrinking water. Former farmland is planted with conifers.Woodland to the north of the reservoir is managed for wildlife,with rides and clearings cut and blocks of heathland recreated.

Habitat, species and seasonsA good variety of woodland birds including all threewoodpeckers, Nuthatch, Treecreeper, Marsh Tit, Hobby.Crossbill, Siskin and Redpoll are often present and sometimesnest and it is one of the few sites in the area where Tree Pipitbreeds. Mandarin Ducks nest in trees. Wonderful Bluebellsand Early Purple Orchid in April/May. The scarce Wild ServiceTree grows in the woods and in some nearby lanes. Fallowdeer can often be seen. An excellent variety of fungi can befound in autumn. Butterflies include Silver-washed Fritillary.

Access and facilitiesCar park at TQ 804206. Thenearby Footlands Wood issimilar and has a car park at TQ 764203.

Until the late 18th century, much of this large tract offorest was agricultural land. What we see now is a mosaicof ancient and secondary woodland, cut by steep, iron-stainedgills running north towards the River Brede. Hidden at its heartare the remains of the second largest ironworks in the RomanEmpire, where an industrial bath-house was buried beneath amountain of cinders. But this is not the only secret of this little-known wood. In the mid-19th century, an ambitious arboretumwas planted, comprising many unusual trees. Some of theseremain as prodigious specimens, others are sick, while fallengiants rot among the undergrowth.

Habitat, species and seasonsA good range of woodland birds and fungi, but it is theextraordinary environment that makes this place special.

Access and facilitiesA single public footpath runs through the wood. Look out forwaymarkers and be careful when crossing the golf course.Park on the verge of the A2100 at Telham. The Black Horsepub is nearby.

Brede High Woods Beauport Park, Hastings

Inland sites Inland sites

Comma Deathcap Mushroom Chicken of the Woods

3938

The Woodland Trust owns and permits open access tothe northern half of this typical Sussex woodland, whichis popular with families and dog-walkers. Mature Oaksstand above Sweet Chestnut coppice, which supplied fencingand poles to the hop industry which was once widespread inthe region.

Habitat, species and seasonsThe best bird habitat is along the northern fringe, wherestreams meet at an old reedbed. There are beautiful shows ofWood Anemone and Bluebell in April/May. Sometimes goodcrops of chestnuts in October.

Access and facilitiesCar park in Watermill Lane TQ 864145, or walk fromGuestling Church TQ 856145.

Mixed woodland of old coppiced Hazel, Birch andChestnut with Oak standards. There is also a streamrunning through the site with an associated pond, and an openheathy area under the powerlines. It is part of a largerwoodland block, and the whole area is popular with locals fordog walking. A Sussex Wildlife Trust Reserve.

Habitat, species and seasonsSpring is the best time for woodland flowers including WoodAnemones and Bluebells, while the pond is a good place tosee Palmate Newts. Later in the year Green Tiger Beetles canbe seen in the sandy patches underneath the electricity pylons.Signs of Wild Boar are often seen, though the animalsthemselves are much more elusive. Good for woodland birdsthroughout the year.

Access and facilitiesThere are several lay-bys suitable for parking on Bixley Lane, asmall unsurfaced road which joins the A268 on a bend twokilometres west of Peasmarsh. There are gates at the entrance tothe reserve, and the many paths through the wood are fairly flat.

Guestling Wood Flatropers Wood


Bluebells Wood Anemone

Coppice at Guestling Wood

4140

A 13th-century “new town”, with a distinctive grid streetplan. Once a great port, now stranded as a wooded island farfrom the sea. Much of the land around the town is farmedorganically by the National Trust. Enjoy a wonderful view up theBrede Valley from the old windmill site at TQ 901175.

Habitat, species and seasonsJackdaws and Swifts nest in the old stonework, while the matureparkland trees hold the biggest rookery in Sussex plus StockDove, Woodpigeon, Nuthatch, Treecreeper, woodpeckers, Jays,Kestrel, Tawny Owl and even Grey Heron. Skylark, Yellow Wagtailand Corn Bunting can be found on the farmland in summer.

Access and facilitiesSeveral footpaths lead down to Pett Level or the Brede Valley.On-street parking, public toilets, pubs, tea-shop, excellentbutchers and village shop can be found in the town.

A beautiful, remote, silent area of typical oldcountryside, grazed by sheep, flanked by woods full ofrookeries. The nearest place to the coast to see Buzzards.Feral Wild Boar live in the woods – their tracks are often to beseen in the fields.

Habitat, species and seasonsRook, Jackdaw, Buzzard, Kingfisher. All three woodpeckers andMarsh Tit can be found in the woods. Large flocks of CommonGulls on the pastures in spring.

Access and facilitiesConsult the OS map for walks in this area – the gate toBeckley Woods (TQ 855215) is a good starting point.

Winchelsea Tillingham Valley


Roadside verge at Winchelsea

Footpaths

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With 250 miles of footpaths and bridleways in the area it iseasy to explore the countryside around Rye. Several longdistance promoted routes focus in on Rye and areexcellent for walkers wishing to enjoy the beautifulcountryside and its wildlife.

1066 Country Walk – 31 milesThe 1066 Country walk meanders through stunningcountryside between Pevensey and Rye, via the town of Battle.The trail follows in the footsteps of William the Conqueror whodefeated King Harold at the Battle of Hastings, which in facttook place at Battle. The Rye to Battle section takes youthrough ancient towns, such as Winchelsea, past windmillsand oast houses at Icklesham and along the Brede Valley intoBattle Great Wood. Highlights on route include the fantasticview across the bay from Hoggs Hill windmill and DolehamDitch for watching Banded Demoiselles during the summermonths. There are many good country pubs on route, inparticular the Queens Head, at Ickelsham, which has afantastic view down the Brede Valley towards Rye.

There are also established links off the main walk to Hastings,Sedlescombe and Bexhill-on-Sea. The Hastings link path offersa good opportunity to visit Hastings Country Park and itscoastal cliffs.

Train stations are located along the route and it is possible to walk from Rye to Battle (15 miles) in a day and catch a train back.

Footpaths Footpaths

Footpaths

Royal Military Canal Path – 28 milesThe canal path follows the Royal Military Canal from Cliff End toHythe on the edge of the Romney Marsh. The canal wasconstructed between 1804 and 1809 during the NapoleonicWars as a defensive line along the edge of the Romney Marsh.During the early 1940s it was also re-fortified with pillboxes due toa further threat of invasion. The canal path offers a pleasant way toexplore Pett Levels and the Romney and Walland Marshes. It is anexcellent corridor for wildlife and you can often catch a glimpse ofa Kingfisher as it darts along above the water. Mute Swans canalso be found along the canal, with Pett Level being a particularlygood place to see them gliding along the canal.

It is well worth stopping at the Pannel Valley Nature Reserve,which is just off the canal path as it crosses Pett Level. The birdhides there allow good bird watching all year round. Also, whynot stop at Camber Castle and learn about this landlockedcastle, which once protected the approaches to Rye.

Canada Geese near Camber Castle

Cycle Routes

High Weald Landscape Trail – 90 milesThis trail crosses the counties of West Sussex, East Sussexand Kent and provides an excellent way to explore the HighWeald AONB. The route crosses from Rye to Horsham andgives walkers a chance to experience constantly changingterrain and views. As you walk out from Rye, to thesurrounding orchards, there are fantastic views back along theTillingham Valley and of Rye Church standing proud againstthe skyline. The route can take a week to complete and thereare several public transport points on route allowing you toexplore sections, without retracing your steps.

The Saxon Shore Way – 163 milesThe Saxon Shore Way runs from Hastings round the coast toGravesend in Kent. The route follows along the coastline priorto the creation of the Romney and North Kent Marshes. As aresult the route does not always follow the coastline you seetoday. The route is also rich in historical sites and follows theline of fortifications set up to protect the shore from Saxonraiding parties. There are panoramic views over the RomneyMarsh from the escarpment that marks the ancient coastlinebetween Folkestone and Rye. The route partly follows theRoyal Military Canal from Ryebefore crossing up to the Isleof Oxney. Walking along thissection you may hear the noisymating call of the Marsh Frog,which escaped into the canaland surrounding ditches froma garden pond in Stone-in-Oxney in 1935.

4544 Footpaths Cycle Routes

Footpaths

National Cycle Network Route 2 runs from Folkestone in theeast to Hastings in the west, and continues as far as Cornwallin the south west. For more information about the NationalCycle Route visit www.nationalcyclenetwork.org.uk

There are some excellent locations for birdwatching along thecycle track which runs from Rye to Lydd and is part of NCNRoute 2.

The Romney Marsh Countryside Project produces a pack ofcycle routes – Romney Marsh Meanders. For a copy send acheque for £3.95 (payable to Dover District Council) to theRomney Marsh Countryside Project, Romney Marsh Day Centre,Rolfe Lane, New Romney, Kent TN28 8JR. 01797 367934.

The Rye Bay Countryside Office produces a free booklet ofon- and off-road cycle routes – Rye Rides – which is availablefrom visitor information centres or the Countryside Office 01797 226488.

National Cycle Network Route 2 near Camber

Marsh Frog

Further information

47

Shingle Extraction

Website linkswww.RXwildlife.org.ukLatest sightings and events in the whole area, with up-to-datelinks to local websites, tides and travel details.

Information centresVisits by school and other groups are encouraged at thesesites. Please book well in advance to avoid disappointment.

RSPB Dungeness Visitor Centre The visitor centre andshop are open from 10am to 5pm (4pm November toFebruary). Map reference: TR 084173.

Romney Marsh Visitor Centre Situated adjacent to theA259, just east of New Romney. Map reference: TR 077261.Open Saturday and Sunday, 11am – 4pm (or dusk if earlier,please call 01797 369487 to check).

Rye Harbour Nature Reserve Information Centre LimeKiln Cottage, just a few minutes walk south of the large carpark at the Martello Tower in Rye Harbour. Map reference: TQ 945 816. Open every day when volunteers available 10-5pm (4pm in winter, please call 01797 227784 to check).

Hastings Country Park Visitor Centre can be reached bycar via the entrance off Fairlight Road. It is on the 344 busroute between Hastings and Pett. Open most weekendsbetween 10am and 4pm in the winter and between 10am and5pm in summer. It is also open most weekdays exceptThursdays throughout the year and is staffed by VolunteerRangers. Contact the Rangers on 01424 813225 to checkopening times. Map reference: TQ 861116.

The extraction of shingle has a major impact on the landscapesouth and east of Rye. This has destroyed the original wildlifevalue of the great shingle ridges, but it has also createdwetland areas for plants and animals. The old workings werenot dug out with wildlife in mind – but many areas have sincebeen enhanced for that purpose. Work by several conservationgroups has improved the pits by creating islands, re-profilingthe steep margins and reducing disturbance.

The only current large scale extraction is taking place to theeast of Scotney Pit by Brett Aggregates Ltd and by RMC justinland of The Pilot. The amount and range of habitats in thisarea will increase and improve over the next few years, andbirdwatching is likely to get even better. Whilst the pitscurrently being dug have not been designed for wildlife orconservation, it is now agreed that this must be built in tofuture excavations and that some of these pits must bemanaged for conservation in the long run. The pits will helpcreate ecological links with the nature reserves across the areaand contribute to the re-creation of some of the wetlands thathave historically been lost. Covering such a large area, it islikely that the complex of pits will include fishing and quietwater sports as well as conservation.

Recent work has been carried out at Dungeness and RyeHarbour under an EU Life-Nature project, led by the RSPB,called “Reedbeds for Bitterns”. Further enhancement, research,promotion and management of shingle habitat at Rye Harbourwas funded by English Nature through Defra’s Aggregates LevySustainability Fund (ALSF). Access improvements acrossRomney Marsh have been funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund.

Shingle Extraction Further information46

Rye Tourist Information CentreFor general visitor information including accommodation andpublic transport. 01797 226696. www.visitrye.co.uk

Public transportTrainsThere is a train service between Hastings and Ashford withstations at Rye, Winchelsea, Appledore, Three Oaks, Dolehamand Ore. Traveline – 0870 608 2 608. www.traveline.org.ukThe Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Light Railway runsbetween Dungeness and Hythe. www.rhdr.org.ukBusesThe local bus service is good and provides a wide coverage.www.stagecoachbus.com Traveline – 0870 608 2 608. www.traveline.org.uk

Ordnance Survey mapsExplorer 125 Romney Marsh, Rye and Winchelsea coversmost of the area at 1:25,000 Explorer 124 Hastings and Bexhill covers the rest.

Local organisations to joinWildlife Trusts – Kent and SussexOrnithological Societies – Kent and SussexRSPB – members groups in Hastings, Battle and FolkestoneFriends of Rye Harbour Nature ReserveFriends of Dungeness Bird ObservatoryPett NaturalistsRye Natural History SocietyHastings and East Sussex Natural History Society

Further information48

Further information

Acknowledgements 49

Aggregates Levy Sustainability Fund. English Naturesupports projects that aim to increase biodiversity and/or conserveand enhance the geological and geomorphological features inareas affected by aggregate extraction. The funding comes fromDefra, through a project at Rye Harbour Nature Reserve calledRye Bay – enhancing and promoting a shingleenvironment and includes the production of this booklet.

The following organisations have been involved in theproduction of this booklet:

Dungeness Bird ObservatoryEast Sussex County CouncilEnglish NatureEnvironment AgencyHastings Borough CouncilRomney Marsh Countryside ProjectRSPB DungenessRye Bay Countryside OfficeRye Harbour Nature ReserveSussex Wildlife TrustWetland TrustWoodland Trust

Supported through Defra’sAggregates Levy Sustainability Fund

Acknowledgements

Sea Kale at Rye Harbour

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