research/ patents/ efficacy/ innovation
TRANSCRIPT
RESEARCH/ PATENTS/ EFFICACY/ INNOVATION
Integrating primary research in cosmetics natural products
development
1988: While still a pharmacology student, George Korres starts
working at Athens’ oldest homeopathic pharmacy - owned by Mr.
Tzivanides - where he first begins mixing natural pharmacy
ingredients to create herbal preparations, natural remedies
and, eventually, cosmetic products.
1992: George sets up an exemplary homeopathic laboratory at the
pharmacy, based on international lab standards. Led by the
pharmacy heritage, his deep knowledge and understanding of over
3,000 herbal remedies, and his passion for a more natural
approach, George starts developing formulas that are first
tested on his own friends
1996: KORRES is born.
The brand’s simple philosophy is rooted in the use of natural
and / or certified organic ingredients of the highest quality;
skin and environmentally friendly products with clinically-
tested efficacy; and products that are affordable for everyday
use, yet of interesting aesthetics that can ‘inspire & make us
happy’. The first KORRES product is an aromatic herbal syrup
with honey and aniseed, a recipe inspired by ‘rakomelon’, a
warming spirit-with-honey concoction, which George’s
grandfather used to make in his hometown on the island of
Naxos.
KORRES Wild Rose 24-Hour Cream, the brand’s first global
innovation and first ever skincare product, is launched. It
goes on to become a global best-seller.
1999: An American buyer spots KORRES products in a pharmacy
while on holiday on the island of Crete and calls George Korres
asking to be the first to import them to the US. KORRES
products’ international journey begins
2000: The beauty buyer for Harvey Nichols, London, spots KORRES
in New York, and immediately places an order for the store’s
newly created Beyond Beauty section.
A number of partnerships with the most prestigious department
stores in Britain and France ‘including Selfridges, Harrods,
Liberty’s, Bon Marche and Galleries Lafayette’follow.
Although not part of the original brand strategy, this domino
effect spreads KORRES products to most parts of the world.
At the same time, the portfolio expands with the launch of
face, body and hair care products free of PARABENS, SILICONES,
MINERAL OIL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL.
2001: Inspired by the long-lived tradition of applying yoghurt
to sunburned skin, KORRES Yoghurt Cooling Gel becomes the
brand’s second global innovation. After three years in
development, KORRES Yoghurt Cooling Gel is the first cosmetic
worldwide based on edible yoghurt and becomes an instant
international hit, selling over 1,000 pieces per day that
summer and every summer since.
2002: The first KORRES store opens abroad, in London’s Chelsea
2004: Two new stores open in Barcelona and KORRES goes from
cult brand to breakthrough in the US market thanks to the
Sephora network. In the same year, based on the NOBEL-awarded
discovery of the proteasome [ubiquitin-mediated protein
degradation], the KORRES Research & Development Lab together
with academic partners begins primary research on Proteasome &
Human Ageing, focusing on enhancing the proteasome function
with natural antioxidants
2006: KORRES products hit shelves in Asia, starting in Japan
and China. Later in the year, KORRES COLOUR launches.
KORRES is ranked among Europe’s 500 highest developing
companies
2007: The year kicks off with the team’s relocation to its new
headquarters in Inofita, on the outskirts of Athens.
KORRES stores open in New York, Paris, Shanghai, Madrid, Vienna
and Geneva, while the Greek Association of Pharmacists honours
George Korres for his contribution to Greek trade and business
development.
In March, KORRES is listed on the Athens Stock Exchange and in
November
Fulfilling a long-term vision of exploring and promoting the
beneficial activity of the country’s unique, native plants, a
mapping of the Greek flora is completed in partnership with the
Laboratory of Organic Farming of the Agricultural School of
Athens. The vision also comes to life through scientific
research on the properties of herbs as well as the brand’s
cooperations with local farmers – teaching & supporting them
through contractual farming – and finally developing an
exemplary, first-for-Greece, herbal extraction unit.
Key to the KORRES vision are ethical, environmental and social
programmes that support local communities and endangered
plants, while also promoting the production of Greek, organic
active extracts of superior quality.
PRODUCTION
ISO 9001 CERTIFICATION, ENVIRONMENTAL CERTIFICATION, ECOCERT
CERTIFICATION
2008: KORRES is awarded as the World’s Most Innovative Brand by
International Cosmetic News and the KORRES New York flagship
store in SoHo is awarded first prize at the Retail Renovation
Competition.
The brand launches its Formula Facts initiative to communicate
in an honest, transparent, and easy to comprehend way, the
natural percentage of each formula, as well as the ingredients
that are selected and those that are avoided.
In December, the first ever KORRES fragrance launches. George
Korres works closely with the world best perfume houses ‘in
Tokyo, Geneva and Gras’ on three unique formulations to best
represent the brand’s mood through scent.
2009: After five years of primary research on Proteasome &
Human Ageing, KORRES presents its third global innovation, the
first natural antiageing line to achieve higher scores on all
clinical tests compared to the market’s best-selling
conventional antiageing creams. A brand milestone, the
Quercetin & Oak line blows apart the theory that only
conventional age-defying creams work and proves that nature’s
chemistry can be stronger than man-made.
GLOBAL PRESENCE KORRES AT THE ELITE STORES OF THE WORLD
32 Countries
Greece, UK, Germany, Spain, Portugal, France, Ireland, Austria, Switzerland,
Belgium, Netherlands, Luxemburg, Czech Republic, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Italy,
Romania, Estonia, Russia Cyprus, USA, Canada, Brazil, South Africa, UAE, China,
Korea, Japan, Australia
RND milestones
1 FORMULATION EXCELLENCE
• Without mineral oil, silicones, parabens, propylene glycol, phthalates, aggressive chemicals
• Expertise in handling sensitive natural active ingredients
• We maximize the synergy of our ingredients delivering natural formulations with superior efficacy
RND milestones
2 INNOVATION CULTURE
• Always striving to break through new barriers, Korres has produced 3 global beauty industry innovations
• Consistently strong pipeline across different categories
• 3 Korres patented ingredients
• Pioneering product concepts
RND milestones
3 ACCESS TO UNIQUE NATURAL INGREDIENTS
• A paradise of biodiversity, Greece offers more than 6,000 plants and 1,200 endemic species. Plants that have created extraordinary mechanisms since thousands of years can offer their benefits in beauty products.
• For our Plant Hunters, Researchers and Formulators, this natural treasure is a constant source of inspiration and innovation
RND milestones
4 PRIMARY RESEARCH
Primary Research is our focus; skin biochemistry and natural actives are priorities for our collaborations, we firmly bring together nature and science to achieve clinical efficacy
RND milestones
5 SCIENTIFIC PARTNERSHIPS
• A major player in primary research in the chemistry of natural ingredients, Korres has developed a network of high-profile academic and research partners mainly in Europe
• These collaborations allow for valuable exchange of knowledge and expertise and can result in the production of new advanced ingredients and technologies
RND milestones
6 PROCESSES & PROTOCOLS
We take pride in meticulous product quality; developing with processes and protocols that are strict and solid, extracting plants while maintaining all sensitive actives, producing with ultra high water purity, all lead to exceptional products
A TYPICAL FORMULA/ EMULSIONS
WFP (purified usp grade)
Emollients
Actives
Preservation
Thickening agents
Emulsifiers
Key milestone is the Month we finalize formula/ packaging (M) The timeline is developed based on this key milestone
Idea Generation
M-10 to M-8
Feasibility
M-8 to M
Development
M to M+5
Implementation
M+5 to M+12
1.Ideas gathering/
screening
2.Evaluation of ideas
PDS form submission
to all depts
Month M: final formula and
packaging
Preparing Pilot and Trial
Trial production (M+8)
RND tests
Get approvals from
Management team
Efficacy tests/ protocol
development Form of Release for Sale
Receipt of formula
samples/ panels
execution
Key claims/ texts/
artworks/ cost finalisation
New product presentation
material/ key info to
Commercial & PR
Receipt of packaging
proposals
Pilot Production (M+3)
RND tests
M+12 to M+15
pipeline productions
Formula samples and Lab sample stability
Efficacy related claims/ consumer relevant claims & actives in the beauty industry
Product design criteria need to be matched with product
claims, with R&D requirements, manufacturing engineering
and brand identity
Actives must be chosen to reflect these product design
criteria. Actives must be supported by studies demonstrating
their claims and safety for use in cosmetics.
They must be manufactured in industrial scale and be compatible
with final cosmetics formulations
They must be innovative/ effective/ interesting/ easy to
formulate with-Preferably all of the above!
Formulations are tested for stability during development.
They go through tests for dermatological use [PATCH TESTS],
opthalmic use [OCCULAR TESTS], safety assessment [COMPLETE DOSSIER
OF PRODUCT BY EXPERTS IN SAFETY ASSESSMENTS], efficacy tests [e.g.
MOISTURISING, SPF CLAIMS, WRINKLE MEASUREMENTS etc]
MAJOR KORRES INNOVATIONS
Major Innovations in the beauty industry achieved by Korres:
A beauty-world first communication tool:
•KORRES ADVANCED ANTI-AGEING PLATFORMS BASED ON NOBEL-AWARDED SCIENCE
Natural beauty-industry firsts:
• THE FIRST NATURAL ANTI-AGEING PRODUCT THAT IS CLINICALLY PROVEN TO
OUTPERFORM THE CONVENTIONAL ‘GOLDEN STANDARDS OF ANTI-AGEING’: RETINOL AND
PEPTIDES – Korres Quercetin and Oak line (patented technology)
The sales of the black pine line in 2012 brought 4 times the sales of the
previous antiageing line
In particular sales were 375% higher in terms of value and 254% higher as
compared to items sold
• THE FIRST SILICONE-FREE 99% NATURAL PRIMER – Korres vitamin E make-up
primer
An ingredient first:
• THE FIRST BEAUTY PRODUCT WITH EDIBLE YOGURT – Korres Yogurt cooling gel
with Greek Yogurt
Innovative Beauty concepts:
• INTRODUCING A NEW BEAUTY CATEGORY: KORRES WILD ROSE SLEEPING FACIAL
• FORMULA FACTS– AN HONEST MESSAGE ABOUT SKINCARE
THANK YOU!