PCSO MRTTraining

Guidelines

1

Overview

Rappelling Safety Review Rappel Commands Munter Hitch Rescue-8 Pass the knot Change Over

2

Safety Backups and Safety Checks

• Tie a double overhand or figure-8 knot in the end of your rope to prevent rappelling off the end.

• Apply weight to anchors and rappelling equipment slowly.

• Bounding Rappels are prohibited.

• Only walk down rappels are to be used.

3

Rope ManagementThrowing The Rope

1.Tie a knot in the opposite end to prevent rappelling off the end of the rope.

4

Edge Transition

• Have your anchor checked by the safety.

• Have yourself safety checked.

• Weight your anchor before you reach the safety line.

• Begin with your feet shoulder width apart.

• Look for footholds before you transition the edge.

• Check for edge pro that may be needed.

5

At the Top“On BelayOn Belay” (”Belay OnBelay On“) if independent belay is used**“On RappelOn Rappel” (“Rappel OnRappel On”)

** For self-belay, response will be from safety officer

At the Ground“Off RappelOff Rappel” (“Rappel OffRappel Off”)“Off BelayOff Belay” (“Belay OffBelay Off”)

Commands

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Rappel Devices

7

Rappel Devices

Rescue-8 with earsRescue-8 with ears

8

Rigging the Rescue-8

9

Rescue-8 Friction Methods

Single wrap Double wrap

10

Rescue-8 Friction

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How to avoid dropping your rescue-8

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12

Tie off the Rescue-8

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Rappel Devices

Correct IncorrectIncorrect

Why?

Munter Hitch

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Munter Hitch

Brake must be opposite the gate

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Rappel Devices

Tie Off

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Half-hitch

Overhand

Safety Backups and Safety Checks

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Self-belay Active Independent belay

Safety Backups and Safety Checks

Trainee Support and Rescue

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Safety Backups and Safety Checks

Mission

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Passing the Knot

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Rig Rescue-8below knot and Second prusik

Set prusik, tie offAdd second prusik

Passing the Knot

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Step on rope,Ascender, orPrusik with sling

Stuck Prusik

Tie off Rescue-8, remove upper prusik

Passing the Knot

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Stuck Prusik Stuck Prusik

ASCENDINGASCENDINGPCSO MRTTraining

Guidelines

23

Overview

Ascending Safety Review Ascending Commands Ascender Setup Edge Transition Pass the knot Change Over

24

Safety

The Safety Line is independent of the Main Line.

The safety line will not be used for rigging.

Trainees will have a third line with an active belayer.

Ascenders will be connected to the climber with cowstails.

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Maintain two (2) points of contact.

Each ascender counts as ½ point of contact.

An additional prusik will be applied to maintain two points before ascenders are removed.

Cow’s Tail

Right Stirrup

Right Ascender

Safety Line with

Microcender or prusik as Self-belay

Triangularor Half-moonScrew-link

Equipment

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Cow’s Tail

Left Stirrup

Left Ascender

Safety Line

Equipment

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Cows Tail

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Right Ascender

Belay Loop

Left Ascender

Approach the Rope at the Ground1. Adjust each ascender so that you can walk up as smoothly2. Attach the self-belay, “On BelayOn Belay” followed by “ClimbingClimbing”3. Start climbing with short steps and steady pace

At Edge1. Slide self-belay over the edge as far up as possible, by standing

on the top and bottom stirrups2. Move up edge toward anchor as far as possible.3. Move to the safe location away from the edge.4. Remove equipment.5. There may be a minor change in sequence due to the rock face.

At top1. Remove the top and bottom ascender from the main line.2. “Off RopeOff Rope”3. Remove the self belay4. “Off belayOff belay”

Equipment

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At the Ground“On BelayOn Belay” (”Belay OnBelay On"), if independent belay is used“ClimbingClimbing” (“Climb OnClimb On”)

At the Top“Off RopeOff Rope” (“Rope OffRope Off”)“Off BelayOff Belay” (“Belay OffBelay Off”)

Commands

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