Rajasthani jewellery

BY: Neeru

Jain

RAJASTHANThe land of Rajasthanis, is

the largest state of the Republic of India by area. Rajasthan was inhabited

long before 2500 BC and the Indus Valley Civilisation had its foundation

here in north Rajasthan itself. The Bhil and the Mina tribes were the earliest

dwellers of this area.Rajasthan is the hub for all kind of

jewellery including: Gemstones

Traditional Gold Jewellery Antique Silver Jewellery

Contemporary Diamond Jewellery Indian Costume Jewellery

Thewa Jewellery

Jaipur is the capital and the largest city of the state.

JaipurPink city Jaipur glitters with the fascinating and fine jewellery. The gems and Jewellery of Jaipur are

famous all over the world. When it comes to traditional Indian

jewellery not only national but also International buyers prefer Jaipur.

Rajasthani Jewellery:Some of the most attractive Indian jewelry

comes from the land of Rajasthan. Rajasthan is

considered to be the crafts paradise of India. In colors, concepts and workmanship – the

handicrafts of Rajasthan are incomparable. Their ethnic aura makes them absolute collector's

delight. Rajasthani jewelry has a vast and varied tradition. Each area in Rajasthan actually has its own unique style of making jewelry. While the rural Rajasthani women prefer to adorn

themselves with chunky silver jewelry, the urban ladies generally go for gold jewelry.

Rajasthan is also famous for its precious and semi-precious jewelry traditions. Exquisite

ornaments are made in Jaipur and Jodhpur using emerald, diamond, pearl, garnet, agate and lapis

lazuli. Rajasthan specializes in meenakari. Meenakari is the art of enameling on gold or

silver. In Jaipur, craftsmen use the champleve or raised-field style. In Nathdwara, enameling is done on silver and other metals. Pratapgarh meena or theva work in gold on green or red

enamel is widely appreciated for its beauty and appeal.

Kundan is the art of setting precious stones in gold.Kundan jewelry is exclusive both in terms of design and perfection. Often, a combination

of meenakari and kundan is used to give the jewelry two equally beautiful surfaces – enamel at the back and kundan-set gems in the front.

Jewellery For Women The women take pride in their traditional

jewellery and Rajasthani womenfolk cherish their heritage. The pieces of jewellery are often

heirlooms and passed down in families. The Rakhri, Bindi and Borla are the main head

ornaments of the women of the state. Besides these, they use an assortment of jeweled pins,

clips and hair brooches. The Nath is a nose ring that holds a very important place in the woman’s

adornments. It is considered auspicious and worn on every joyous occasion.

The Karanphool Jhumka (a bell shaped earring), Toti (parrot shaped earring), Lathan (grape) and Pipal Patti (heart shaped ornament) are the most common earrings worn by Rajasthani women. Necklaces are of varied types but the favorites are the Chandan Haar, the Mohanmala, the Champakali, the Adah, the Mohrun, the Tussi, the Jugnu and the Hansli. Rajasthani women adorn their arms with a bewildering range of amulets, bracelets, bangles and rings. Baju Bandh, Gokhru, Bala, Kada, Chuda and Hathpol are common bangles and bracelets while the Arsi, a ring is considered a must have for the newly wed bride. Toe rings such as Anvat and anklets such as Jhanjhar or Pajeb are owned by almost every woman. Other favored ornaments include the Timaniyan, Gajra and Jod. 

Jewellery for Men Jewelry is not the forte of Rajasthani women

alone. Men adorn themselves with a variety of jewels and jewelry. The ornaments men of this state prefer include a host of necklaces and chains, rings, armlets, anklets and earrings. The maharajas and royal and tribal men alike displayed a fondness for opulent adornments and their rich aesthetic sense reveals itself in the many ornaments fashioned out for the men of the state. The turbans of the royals were heavily beset with precious and semi precious stones and precious metal ornamentations such as pins such as Kalangis and Aigrettes.

Tribal Jewellery The vast desert state of Rajasthan

is home to the culturally rich tribes such as the Banjaras, the Bhils and theGayaris . These tribes deck up in a vast array of jewelry. The Banjaras are gypsies and nomads by nature. They fashion out their jewelry from beads, sequins, cowries and colorful threads. Glass beads and brass ornaments are part of their daily attire. The ornaments are made up of gold, silver and mainly brass. Animal bones and ivory are used too. The gypsy tradition demands that a prospective groom gift the bride huge quantities (about 25 kg) of ornaments before the wedding. Tribal jewelry of Rajasthan forms part of the rich handicraft heritage of the state.

Types Of Jewellery Kundan Work:

Kundan is a special style of jewelry making specially practiced in Rajasthan. The precious and semiprecious gems are set in gold and silver. The surface of the jewelry is crafted skillfully and meticulously leaving holes for the gems. The gems are then set with a lac base at the back of the ornament. kundan is the local word for gold which forms the interface between the lac and the gemstones. The pieces are often enameled giving them a bright look. 

Meenakari Jewelry:Meenakari Jewelry is another specialty of the states’ artisans. Precious and semiprecious gems are embellished into gold or silver jewelry and the meal itself is enameled with bright colors. Introduced to the state’s jewelers by Raja Mansingh of Amer, this style of jewelry crafting was originally discovered by the skilled workmen of Lahore. Honed to perfection by the jewelry makers of the state, Meenakari jewelry now bears the unmistakable stamp of Rajasthani expertise. Jaipur is the hub of this skill.

Thewa:Thewa work is the famous art of creating golden patterns on glass. Chittorgarh is famed for such Thewa jewelry. The universal appeal of the intricate designs and the raging colors reflects in the popularity of Thewa pendants not only in India but all over the world. Brilliant greens, blues and reds and floral patterns of gold cast a spell over every woman’s heart. In Rajasthan, unique ornaments are created by combining Kundan and Meenakari styles of jewelry crafting. The embedded stones stand out in the enameled pieces and their brilliance is set off by the intricate designs and superior craftsmanship.

Precious And Semiprecious Gems:Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Jade, Garnets, Agate, Amethyst, Pearl, Blue Sapphire, Tourmaline Topaz, Lapis lazuli, Carnelian...the kaleidoscopic hues of the precious and semiprecious stones used in Rajasthani ornaments flash and the brilliance of these are only rivaled by the beauty of the women who wear the ornaments. Rajasthan is one of the largest centers of hand-cutting of precious and semiprecious gems around the entire world This forms the basis of the kundan ornaments of the state. Jaipur and Jodhpur are especially famed for their accomplished artisans and the glittering markets of sparkling and splendid jewelry. Johari Bazar of Jaipur showcases the exclusive creations in semiprecious, precious .

Women Ornaments Big, colorful and traditional necklaces,

armlets, anklets, earrings and rings are the part of Rajasthan culture. With advent of mughal empire, Rajasthan became the main center for production of finest and intricate kind of jewellery.

Waist Ornaments Kardhani It is the major ornament worn on waist.

It covers from all sides. There are small bells attached to it. It is also known as kandora or Mekhala.

The other ornament is Kankati.

Legs Ornaments All the ornaments worn on legs are made

up of silver. They are Paijeb, Payal, Kade, chale, Naveri, Bichuae that are worn on legs.

Paijeb It is chain of silver in which small bells

are tied.

Payal It is similar to paijeb. It is solid ring

shaped wire. When it is worn it makes melodious sound.

Kada & Langar They are hollow from inside. Langar

is worn beneath kada which is made by joinig thick wires of silver together.

AwlaNevta It is worn with kada. It is made up of

solid silver. Nevta is also worn with kada.

Jhanzar & Noopur The bells are there in them which

make sound when worn. Anguda & Bichuae

The anguda is worn on thumbs of toes while bichuae is worn on fingers of toes.

PungpanIt is similar to haathphool. The rings of toes are joined with payal through hooks. It is worn on marriage ceremonies.The other ornaments are todhe, tinke, lache which adorn the legs of Rajasthani women.

NECK ORNAMENTS

MUKTHMALAIt is mostly worn by rich class. It is nath of pearls and also known as Surmargi in which there is a beads of gold.

MANIKMALA It is made of red, pink jewel

which looks attractive.

TABEEZThe shape is square, rounded and triangular. It is worn for protection against evil spirits.

WRIST ORNAMENTS

The ornaments covers the wrist from all sides are made of gold. These are hollow from inside and from a silken thread they are tied to wrist

GHOOKROIt is sharp edged ornament.

GAJREThese are twisted ornament which are in shape of flower-leaf and made of gold.

BAJUBANDIt is worn on arms and also known as Bahuband.

KADAIt is springular. It is also known as tada.

HAATHPHOOLIt is in the shape of paan. It is joined with bangles of handon on one side and joined with chains of rings on other side. It is made of simple metal and jewelled.

FOREHEAD ORNAMENTS

SHISHPHOOLIt is ornament which worn on hairs. The intricate work is done artistically on this ornament.

SUMMANGIt is the cluster of pearls which is worn in the middle of hair parting.

TIKAIt is in shape of  medal whose lower part is made of pearls. It is tied with summang and hang down the forehead. It is worn mostly by Oswal, Porwal and Agarwal class.

RAKDRIIt is rounded and heavy ornament.

Tika and Rakdri are symbolic ornament of married women in Rajasthan.

EAR ORNAMENTS

KARNPHOOLIt is in shape of flower in which pearls hangs downwards .

JHALEIt is ornament which sticks to ear and fixed in memandh which is a single jewellery.

JHOOTEIt is also known as tops.

Men’s Ornaments Rajasthan has rich deposits of precious

and semi-precious stones such as emerald, garnet, agate, topaz and lapiz lazulli. Each gem is believed to have inherent powers and some of them are even worn as rings and other jewllery as lucky charms.

SHER-NAKH-JANTRSilver amulets are curved like a tiger’s claw. The amulets depicts many folklore heroes. They are featured geometrical shapes and these shapes represents different identities.Square, rectangles and pentagons are representative of a house, six sided amulets are known as Patri and symbolizes temple. The circular amulets are called as mandala are believed to ward off spirits. The amulets denotes wearer clan or community.

GAJJALUThey are casted brass ankle bells that are sewn on to a strip of leather and worn by male dancers when they perform.

TAZIMIt is crafted in gold or silver and is hereditary chain anklet that shows the sign of recognition. It used to be worn on right ankle either as necklace or bracelets.

BALEORAIt is gold necklace  that consists of seven chains that are further adorned with seven clasp units which are set with gemstones. A screw is built into back clasp to fasten the entire piece. The necklace has central pendant called as Jugni decorated with gemstones.Another neck ornament is GOP and Jagwali. When a circular torque is introduced in this stunning pendant, it is called as Jugavali.Motimala or manak mela is one beautiful necklace which is made of pearls, emerald and rubies.

HANSLIIt is rest on collar bone and its basic form is a rigid circular torque with a hollow or solid construction.

JHELA OR  MURKHIThey are small earring that are worn on earlobes and are often shaped like six petaled flower.

KHAG OR KANDHE-KA GAHNAIt is made of gold, its facade side set with gemstones and emerald  on reverse. It is worn either on one shoulder or on both.

Market and Specialised Centres of Jewellery in Rajasthan

GemstonesRajasthan excels in wide range of precious and semi-

precious jewellery. Exquisite ornaments are made in Jaipur and Jodhpur using emerald, diamond, pearl, garnet, agate and lapiz lazulli. As oposed to the modern equipments used by European lapidaries, Jaipur workers use simple tools, inspite of which their dexterity and skill is remarkable.

A piece of very popular jewellery in Rajasthan is the navratna, a collection of nine gems set together in a single piece of jewellery, either a pendant or a ring. Pearls were considered extremely lucky and emerors even ate ground pearls as medicine. Traditional designs are still popular in modern India, though the colored glass or semi-precious stones have taken place of precious stones as in traditional Rajasthan.

JaipurCentre for gold kundan work and also renowned for diamond and emrald cutting. Johari Bazar (jeweller’s market) offers the most varied collection of the region.

NathdwaraTemple market in here is the best place to buy silver kundan andmeenakari work.

Udaipur and BikanerA spillover of the kundan work can be purchased at Udaipur and exquisite pieces of gold and silver jewellery incorporated on lac for youngsters can be purchased at the Sunaron-ki-Suwad market in Bikaner.

JaisalmerOld silver jewellery can be bought at an affordable prices from the markets of jaisalmer.

Pratapgarh in ChittaurgarhThis district is famous for thewa jewellery, in which red, green or blue colored stones are beautifully crafted in the gold plated silver. Small boxes and jewel cases are also designed in this fashion.

THANK YOU