quality and quantity: are they compatible?

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Quality and quantity: are theycompatible?Angel A. Gargiulo aa Secretaria de Agricultura, Ganadería y Pesca , InstitutoNacíónal de Tecnología Agropecuaria , Estación ExperimentalAgropecuaria Rama Caída, C.C.79, 5600 San Rafael, Mendoza,ArgentinaPublished online: 21 Mar 2007.

To cite this article: Angel A. Gargiulo (1991) Quality and quantity: are they compatible?,Journal of Wine Research, 2:3, 161-181, DOI: 10.1080/09571269108717902

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Journal of Wine Research, 1991, Vol. 2, No. 3, pp. 161-181

The following is the revised text of a paper presented at 'Wine 2000', the Masters ofWine International Symposium held at St John's College, Cambridge, in July 1990. It ispublished here to encourage debate on the issue of the balance between quality andquantity in wine production.

Quality and Quantity: Are They Compatible?

ANGEL A. GARGIULO

Original manuscript received, 19 July 1990Revised manuscript received, 12 August 1991

ABSTRACT The main source of misunderstanding on the subject of the incompatibility ofwine quality and quantity stems from generalisations as to what happens with particulargrape varieties in certain environments. Another cause is the lack of a clear definition ofquality. When we ask the experts what quality is, we receive as many answers as thenumber of experts consulted. The concept of quality is not something constant in time andspace but, on the contrary, something dynamic, whose changes depend on a number offactors, some subjective and others imposed by tradition or commercial promotion. I definequality as organoleptic characteristics that have specific markets at specific times and inspecific places. Quality is based, among other elements, on characteristics that adapt to thecondition of our viticultural areas, trying not to imitate foreign wines but to obtain winesthat are typical of our viticultural regions with different peculiarities at the same time ashigh yields, making them more economical. We must find varieties suited to ourenvironment and not environments suited to the varieties of wines from cooler countries,because even if we select similar areas, the problem of adaptability will remain unresolvedfor almost all our wine grape areas. I have worked for 38 years crossing high yieldvarieties with varieties traditionally considered as being of high quality and backcrossingin both ways, obtaining new varieties with the two characteristics combined. This paperreports on some of the findings of this research.

Introduction

Each grape variety is limited by the environment in its capacity to reach anoptimum level of maturity. This level of maturity is also closely related toorganoleptic characteristics that conform with what we consider to be elements ofquality.

The upper limit of productivity varies greatly in different environments. Hotregions with deep and good soils and abundant water supply from irrigation canbear higher yields than cold regions with shallow soils dependent on rain. It isunderstood that the comparison of the behaviour of a particular variety in two

Angel A. Gargiulo, Secretaria de Agricultura, Ganadería y Pesca, Instituto Nacíónal de TecnologíaAgropecuaria, Estación Experimental Agropecuaria Rama Caída, C.C.79, 5600 San Rafael, Mendoza,Argentina.

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162 ANGEL A. GARGIULO

different environments assumes the same level of grape maturity. Genuinematurity cannot be denned just by sugar and acid levels but must involvecompounds responsible for characteristic flavours, such as the 2-metoxi-3-isobutylpirazine that produces the 'green pepper' flavour of Cabernet Sauvignon. Anexample of a genetic solution to these problems is cited by Olmo (1980):

An example of breeding to correct a deficiency of a premium variety.The identification and 'fingerprinting' of the principal compounds thatcontribute to unique flavouring of varieties, such as linalool and geraniolin some Muscat varieties will be a great aid in the breeding and selectionof new varieties. Rapid and easy methods of analysis to screen largeprogenies for key biochemicals are needed to speed up the selectionprocess.

A similar example is the so-called 'green pepper' aroma of theCabernet group. Although the inheritance of this characteristic is com-plex, it has been possible to isolate a new Cabernet variety, '1882', thatproduces wine in Region V (Fresno), the hottest region where winegrapes are grown in California. Experienced tasters cannot distinguishthis wine from Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Region II. The genea-logy of this variety is as follows:

Derivation of the new Cabernet variety '1882'

CarignaneCabernet Sauvignon

Ruby Cabernet F2-34 „ ,° „' Cabernet Sauvignon

^, Muscat HamburgQueen 6

Sultanina

Beauty Seedless Queen of the VineyardsBlack Kishmish

In this example, the pronounced flavor and aroma of the CabernetSauvignon, hardly noticeable and insufficient in hot regions, has beentransferred to a new variety that expresses these flavors as fully as theparent variety grown under a cool climatic regime.

Two Fl selections of the cross Carignane X Cabernet Sauvignon wereselected for high Cabernet flavor, i.e., F2-7 and F2-34 (Ruby Cabernet).From inter-crossing, the Cabernet flavor was further accentuated in theF2 selection, P27-35. The complexity of the aroma and earlier ripeningwas enhanced by using a derivative of the Beauty Seedless with a spicycharacter, S95-33. Development of seeds was also restricted to decreasethe content of phenols in the wine. The impact of new University ofCalifornia wine varieties has been appreciable. By 1976, 12.7 per cent ofthe acreage of California were new varieties, the first commercial intro-ductions being Ruby Cabernet and Emerald Riesling in 1948. Their roleis even more important because of increased yield. Thus, in 1976,average yield based on state wide winery crush was 5.99 tons per bearingacre for Ruby Cabernet vs 1.65 tons/acre for Cabernet Sauvignon.

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BALANCE BETWEEN QUALITY AND QUANTITY 163

Another example is found in Argentina. Experiments conducted in Mendoza withCarbernet Sauvignon show that the 'green pepper' flavour is perceptible in winewhen the grapes are harvested early, in order to obtain not more than 11°alcohol. Wines with higher maturity lose this flavour.

Table 1. Derivation of CG 175.169

f Gibi ..CG 14.443 { f Carignane

CG 175.169 1 I RubV C a b e r n e t F 2 - 3 4 \ Cabernet SauvignonCG 19.387 / M a l b e c k

1 Cabernet Sauvignon

Table 2. Derivation of CG 146.673

CG 14.443 | R u b y C a b e r n e t F 2 . 3 4 i C a r i g n a n e

CG 146.673 "j "1 Cabernet Sauvignon

CG 14.178 / G ' b i

| Ruby Cabernet F2-34 J Carignane"\ Cabernet Sauvignon

Other varieties obtained by crosses, for example the CG 175.169 (Table 1),maintain this characteristic flavour even with 15° alcohol. A clear example of thegenetic possibilities of wine grapes is the variety CG 146.673 (Table 2). Theoriginal seedling yielded, in 1982,'45 600 kg. Considering that the density ofplanting was 3200 plants per hectare, this yield should be equivalent to 145 920tons per hectare. Even with this huge production and an early harvest (23February 1982) we obtained a wine with 13.52° of alcohol and 6.22 g I"1 ofacidity (expressed in tartaric). In tasting, this wine obtained high ratings. It was awine with intense colour, herbaceous, with Cabernet Sauvignon flavour butsmoother, quicker in evolution and with better acidity. This is clear evidence thatquality and quantity are not incompatible, using the possibilities that genetics givefor each environment.

The genetic improvement of wine grapes carried out at the Rama CaidaExperimental Station (INTA), has as its purpose the search for high yield andoenological quality. Such quality is based on characteristics that are adaptable tothe conditions of our viticultural areas. Effort is made to avoid imitating foreignwines, but to obtain wines that are typical of our viticultural regions, withdifferent peculiarities, and yet with the high yields that make them economicallyattractive.

In recent years, varieties that are high yielding like Criolla and Cereza, butwhich are of unsuitable quality for making fine wines, have spread through ourmain viticultural zones. At the same time good quality wine varieties havedecreased noticeably in the vineyards. The reason for this is that higher pricespaid for better quality have not even remotely compensated for the economicadvantages of the high yields achieved by the prolific varieties.

High yields, in times of overproduction, may have been considered a disadvan-tage if analysed superficially. Excessive production should not be curbed byplanting high quality varieties of low yield, as has been suggested in our country,but rather by diversifying the uses of grapes.

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Among the varieties that could be substituted for high yielding, low qualityvarieties, it would be a mistake to choose those of high quality and low yield, eventhough in some years higher prices are paid for them than for others also of highquality but with higher yields. This may result in an artificial solution which, atfirst glance, may be practicable due to the very small percentage that these highquality and low yielding varieties represent. However, when the growers, attractedby increased prices, increase this percentage considerably, it will be much moredifficult to maintain these differentials. Briefly, high yields coupled with oenologi-cal quality will produce fine wines at low prices, expanding the home market aswell as improving competitiveness in foreign markets.

Another factor, often not taken sufficiently into account, is the choice ofvarieties best adapted to each ecological region. Here, it must be clear that I amreferring to a totally different aspect to that of measuring differences in theoenological quality of an identical variety in different regions. It is true, ingeneral terms, that the climatic characteristics of each region condition but donot determine the type of viticultural production best adapted to it. For example,the warmer zones, in which ripening is earlier, are more adapted to the culture ofvarieties giving full bodied spiritous wines. Cooler regions are preferable forgrowing varieties for the production of high quality wines, because many of thesewould lose the necessary acidity for the harmonious balance of the wine if grownin warmer regions. These and other ecological limitations can, in many cases, beavoided by using appropriate varieties, either by adoption from other viticulturalzones of similar characteristics or by cross-pollination between varieties.

By crossing, varieties have been obtained with an acidity which could beexcessive for wine making if used separately, but which can be used for blendingto correct low acidity in other varieties which may have been chosen for suchfavourable characteristics as high yield and good oenological quality. It must notbe forgotten that famous wines of traditional viticultural regions (principallyEuropean) are generally not made with a single variety, but with several blendedtogether to correct their deficiencies and combine their virtues. For this reason itis a mistake to study the adaptation of varieties for fine wine making separately.Also forgotten is the role played by oenological techniques which allow theproduction of very different wines from the same raw material. Trials at RamaCai'da Experimental Station have shown that the same variety (CG 38.049—Rieslina—a high yielding cross of Rhine Riesling), grown in the same area, andeven on the same plot of land, harvested the same day (that is to say, with thesame degree of ripeness), if it was made by a given method (fermentation at lowtemperatures and in the presence of bentonite, previously settled, etc.), gave agood quality wine with a marked Riesling type flavour, completely different fromothers made by different techniques. The degree of maturity of the grapes isanother factor of great importance in the quality of the wine, and its optimalpoint can be very different in different ecological regions.

Countries where viticulture is relatively new often follow too closely rulessupposedly set down by European viticulture. One of these rules is the alcoholiccontent of wines, where mistakenly a maximum is established which in actual factis the maximum possible for these European regions. What has not been takeninto account is that in other zones, where it is possible to obtain higher levels ofmaturity, products are obtained that have more outstanding organoleptic charac-teristics with higher alcoholic content. This is something we have repeatedlyconfirmed.

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With respect to the local consumption of wines it is not necessary to speculateover the subtleties of flavour and bouquet which sometimes even experts havedifficulty in detecting; besides, these experts are only a very small percentage ofthe consumers. Therefore, wines without defects, of good quality and low price,should be obtained. Costs can be reduced considerably using adequate trainingand management systems, with varieties whose wine making qualities are good inaddition to offering high yields. With reference to wines for export, although it istrue that there are European varieties that produce excellent quality wines (suchas Cabernet, Riesling, etc.), when they are grown in very different ecologicalregions they can also give good wines, although these will not be exactly the sameas in Europe. One of the elements, the climate, is different, as is the product. Themost logical thing is not to try to imitate something which we will not be able toachieve completely, but to produce typical wines of different regions. These canbecome accredited just as others have done from other ecological regions despiteat times having serious limitations. It must not be forgotten that the term 'quality'is quite subjective, not very well-defined, and opinions on the matter do notalways coincide. In fact, it is tradition that has indicated which characteristicsshould be considered as elements of quality for one type of wine produced withone specific variety in one specific zone. Sometimes a type of wine has beenobtained by chance when trying to correct regional climatic deficiencies affectingspecific varieties by adding sugar. This, for example, is the case with Champagne.

The concept of quality is not something constant in time and space but, on thecontrary, something dynamic, whose changes depend on a number of factors,some subjective and others imposed by tradition or commercial activity. To givean example, let us take the case of certain characteristics of fine quality red winessuch as those obtained by ageing in oak casks which produce the well-knownchanges in colour and aroma by means of the oxidising processes. These charac-teristics were considered in the past as indispensable elements of quality for thesetypes of wines. Nowadays, on the contrary, wines with no oxidation, without awoody flavour, fresh and fruity, are preferred; that is to say the antithesis of whatwere considered in the past as elements of quality. These wines can be releasedonto the market earlier, avoiding the immobilisation of capital over many years.Furthermore, the cost of maintenance, and the investment in costly vats, couldgreatly limit the volumes to be produced.

In the light of these circumstances, one might ask whether the qualityrequired by the consumer and the economic advantages obtained by the producerare merely due to chance or are the result of promotion or other commercialactions aimed at changing demand. The effect publicity campaigns can have inthis sense is well known. An obvious example of the effect of massive investmentin publicity is the success of soft drinks which today sell all over the world. Theseare successful commercial firms that would not invest in publicity without tangiblereturns. The change in world preference away from red wine and towards whitewine is an example of how dynamic market requirements can be and of theobjectives we must pursue as a matter of priority.

Summing up what has been said so far, a region must not be consideredinappropriate for the production of quality wines merely because it does notshare the characteristics of 'classic' zones for particular varieties. Other varieties,adaptable to the climatic conditions of that region, blended in correct propor-tions to compensate for defects and combine virtues, with adequate oenologicaltechniques, can produce wines of such good quality that they can become

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internationally famous. If this is done with good varieties, adequate training andmanagement techniques, able to produce yields several times greater than thoseof traditional regions, an undoubted benefit could be expected (Gargiulo, 1971;1972a, b; Hiaring, 1973; Gargiulo and Roldan, 1978; Olmo, 1980).

Materials and Methods

On land belonging to S.A. Bodegas y Vifledos Arizu, a planting was carried outwhich, being increased yearly, now comprises a total of 818 varieties, amongwhich there are wine grapes, table grapes, American rootstocks, direct producerhybrids and other species of the Vitis genera. Systematic observations were madewith the purpose of selecting material which could be used according to thedifferent objectives pursued in the different programmes. Degree Baume mea-surements were made and with some varieties wine was prepared pursuant to theplan for the improvement of varieties for wine making.

The technique used consists principally in crossing chosen parents and select-ing in Fi the individuals with the desired characteristics. At the beginning, wethought of resorting to F2 and F3 generations and backcrossing if necessary, butdue to the great segregation of characters that the material used presents, theappearance of many of the wanted combinations was observed in the Fj.

To judge by the material that is already fruiting it looks as if it will beunnecessary to resort to F2 and F3 although we are resorting, in some cases, tocrossings between the best vines obtained and backcrossing these with CabernetSauvignon and with the best selections of previous years.

The selection of seedlings resulting from the crossing of wine grapes beginswith the harvesting of those marked as the most productive. A minimum limit ofproduction is fixed per seedling, this varying slightly with the yearly variations inproduction; generally it is 10 kg.

After being harvested, those above a minimum of 12° Baume are made intowine. The wine is made in small volumes, using wide mouthed demijohns in thecase of red grapes, so that it is easier to work with the marc, and in ordinarydemijohns in the case of white wines, as these are fermented without marc.

Potassium metabisulphite is added at the rate of 40 g hi"1 (equivalent to 20 ghi"1 of sulphur dioxide) in red varieties. In white varieties, another procedure isfollowed: after being harvested, the grapes are kept at low temperatures (1-2°C)so as to carry out the crushing, separation from the stalks, basket pressing alsobeing used in less oxidising conditions. Sulphur dioxide is then added at the rateof 10 g hi""1, and decanted at 2-3cC over 48 h. The pulp is separated from theclear juice by siphoning, and it is then fermented. Before fermentation 5% ofstarter and 0.5 g I""1 of bentonite are added for purposes of obtaining a morepronounced fruity perfume and clearer colour. Simultaneously, and under identi-cal conditions, wine is made from the well-known varieties which it is our purposeto improve, as well as those cultivated in our region. A year after making thewine, there is a selection by tasting. A scoring table has been devised in which thequalities and defects of the wine corresponding to each seedling are synthetised ina number. We looked for a method that reflected, in the briefest way possible, theverdict of the wine tasters so as to be able to work more easily with a largenumber of samples. In the 1967 harvest, for example, the production from 430seedlings and 27 cultivars used as controls was made into wine (including ninecrossings with muscat studied for their use in making fortified and sparkling

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wines). The scale we use is as follows: excellent, 10; very good, 7, 8, 9; good, 5, 6;fairly good, 3, 4; poor, 1, 2; bad, 0.

For the first selection, by tasting, each sample of wine is given to the winetasters in glasses, together with a sheet of paper on which they must record theirjudgement. The wine tasters must be separated from each other in the room,working alone, so as not to influence each other, not even with facial expressions.The judgement is not limited to the aforementioned scale; they must also makeobservations which establish and explain those qualities or defects embraced bythe selected number. For example, they must say if it is or is not harmonious, andthey must assess characteristics such as perfume, acidity, colour, fruit and flavour.We also try to determine if a defect is due to the variety or to the wine making, soas not to discard it for deficiencies in the latter. Once the score of each sample isrecorded separately, they are collected and compared. This also allows us toevaluate the accuracy of the wine tasters' judgement since in most cases there isalmost total agreement. The wine tasters' scores do not indicate differences ofmore than half to one point on a scale of 10. When there are differences ofopinion the sample is separately tasted another day. As this generally happensafter prolonged sessions of wine tasting, we try not to taste more than 10—12samples in each session.

An average is made of the wine tasters' results, and these are included in ageneral list in which are recorded: (i) cultivar or number of seedling; (ii) type ofgrape; (iii) parents; (iv) production in kilograms per plant; (v) date of harvest; (vi)alcohol content by volume; (vii) total acid in tartaric; (viii) volatile acidity (in aceticacid); (ix) total SO2; (x) reducing sugars; (xi) alcohol to be produced; (xii) colour;(xiii) sex of the flower; (xiv) age of the seedling; (xv) wine tasting score average;(xvi) situation in the vineyard; and (xvii) wine tasting score (individual judgementof each wine taster). In this list are grouped together all the seedlings belongingto one crossing, and they are ranked in decreasing order of production.

The most productive vines, which exceed six points in tasting average, aregrafted the following year on to adult plants. Approximately 40-60 vines aregrafted, with buds taken from each seedling. The first graft is made on seedlingrootstocks that have already been discarded in former selections. In this way, asthere are virtually no viruses of vines transmitted by seed, a first multiplication,practically virus free, can be obtained. The subsequent grafting is carried out intwo or three different vineyards with the object of diminishing the probability oflosses due to climatic accidents (hail or frost) and also to increase the variablesthat may turn up in possible future multiplication.

The purpose of grafting is to increase wine making potential as well as toobtain reasonably rapidly a good number of cuttings so as to be able to carry outcomparative yield analyses with adequate statistical designs. The original seedlingis retained for purposes of indexing possible viruses and, after being certified, itis used as initial virus free material for multiplication.

The seedlings selected are harvested and made into wine over three consecu-tive years, so as to verify the regularity of yields and the differences in the qualityof the wine, which generally presents variations related to alcohol content. Thereis general agreement, at least in our conditions, that a wine is better when itsalcohol content is higher. This is valid not only for comparing two differentyears, but also when in the same year the same variety is harvested on differentdates.

In the trial plots where yields of the most outstanding varieties are compared,

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phenological observations are also carried out. Up to this moment, sprouting andripening have been considered as the phases of most practical importance. Forbud burst, we take 10 plants per variety, and from the beginning of bud swellingthe number of swollen buds (when the green tip of a leaflet appears between thescales) is recorded every 3 days. The number of buds with young unfolded leavesis also recorded. Afterwards an average is made of both daily values, establishingin this way the beginning of bud burst, when the first swollen buds appear; thefully sprouted phase when 50% of the total buds that have unfolded leaflets; andthe end of sprouting when the number of swollen buds reaches zero, leaving onlythe fully sprouted and the unfolded.

The level of maturity is taken on the seedling, on the total of the grapesobtained from the grafts made in the first multiplication, and on the grapescoming from the statistically designed plots. The density in degrees Baume isused, and in some cases the refractive index.

For the ampelographic description, we have adopted the system suggested byVegaetal. (1962).

Results

Over a period of several years trials were made in the field, with statistical designsbeing recorded and commercial behaviour considered. Wine was also made in thelaboratory on a small scale as well as in some wineries of the San Rafael zone ofthe Mendoza region, in industrial volumes. Seven new red varieties were selected:

CG 2.539 (Gibi X Cabernet Sauvignon)CG 4.113 (Lambrusco X Carignane)CG 14.260 (Gibi X Ruby Cabernet)'Caberinta'—CG 14.892 (Gibi X Ruby Cabernet)CG 14.951 (Gibi X Ruby Cabernet)CG 34.047 (FintendoXBarbera d'Asti)CG 26.189 (Gibi X Barbera d'Asti)

and four white varieties:

'Rieslina'—CG 38/049 (Riesling RenanoXCG 377 (Gibi X Sultanina))CG 1.730 (Almeria X Moscato de Hamburgo)CG 45.803 (Gibi X Prosecco)CG 26.879 (AramonX Sultanina)

By way of example, the outstanding characteristics of four red varieties and onewhite are described.

CG 2.539 Gibi X Cabernet Sauvignon

This is a highly productive variety (Figure 1), with little colour; sensitive topowdery mildew, but this is easily controlled with timely treatments. It is latesprouting, with a long cycle, ripening (between 12° and 13° Baume) approxi-mately the second week of April in Rama Caida. As a reference, Malbeck reachesthe same maturity in this area during the first fortnight of March. It shows atendency to overcropping with a resulting deficiency in ripening; because of thisit is advisable not to leave too many buds when pruning.

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700 - i

600-

5 0 0 -

4 0 0 -

3 0 0 "

2 0 0 "

100-

687%

100%

665%

619%

383%

415%

249%

100%

69 70 73 74 74 75

VA SJ VA SJ

69 70 73 74 74 75

VA SJ VA SJ

Figure 1. Yield of CG 2.539 expressed as a percentage, in comparison withCabernet and Cereza, extracted from comparative yield trials with statisticaldesigns. (+ +) Highly significant; (+) significant; (*) very near to the threshold of

significance; (-) not significant; VA, Villa Atuel; SJ, San Juan.

Characteristics of the must. Average analytical data for a series of years, for twozones of San Rafael, are shown in Table 3.

Table 3. Analytical Data for CG 2.539 Must

Average date Degrees Total acidPlace and years of harvest Baume in tartaric pH

Rama Caida 1974/80 4/14 14.02 3.72 3.72Le Guevarina 1974/80 3/24 13.38 4.08 3.77

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Table 4. Analytical Data of CG 2.539 Wine Made in the Suter Winery in 1974

Date of harvest and origin

Acid vol.Total acid in in acetic

Alcohol tartaric (g °/00) (g "/„„)SO2

(mgl-')

Reducingsugar

(mg I"1)

1974 Rama Caida 12.80 4.87 0.49 212 2.37

Table 5. Analytical Data for Wines Made from CG 2.539 Made at Differ-ent Levels of Raw Material Maturity


4/29/76 La Guev.3/9/77 La Guev.3/28/78 La Guev.1974 R. Caida3/31/77 R. Caida4/20/79 R. Caida

Alcohol

14.9013.1315.8015.8511.9716.03

Total acid intartaric (g %)

3.444.124.655.044.803.30

Acid vol.in acetic

(g%>

0.590.320.350.390.300.55

SO2

(gl"')

9011513580

13093

Reducingsugar(g I"')

11.27T

2.36TT

3.41

Vo

400

300

200

100

376%366%

182% 172%

100%

1973 1974 1974 1975

SJ VA SJ

1973 1974 1974 1975

SJ VA SJ

Figure 2. Yield of CG 14.260 expressed as a percentage, in comparison withCabernet and Cereza, extracted from comparative yield trials with statistical

designs. (-) Not significant; VA, Villa Atuel; SJ, San Juan.

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Table 6. Average Analytical Data for CG 14.260 Musts

Place and yearsAverage date

of harvest

Total acidDegrees in tartaricBaume (g %)


Table 7. Analytical Data for Wine Made from CG 14.260 with DifferentDegrees of Raw Material Maturity


4/1/75 R. Caida3/22/76 R. Caida3/7/75 L. Guev.3/16/76 L. Guev.3/15/78 L. Guev.4/5/79 L. Guev.

Alcohol

11.8014.3912.4012.9713.6013.70

Total acid intartaric (g %,)

6.345.476.124.353.453.82

Acid vol.in acetic

(g%)

0.340.230.440.300.210.60

SO2

(mg I"1)

806668

107136115

Reducingsugar(gl-1)

.——

2.23T

1.84

Characteristics of the wine. The wines are light ruby in colour. Wines made withBaume levels above 13° acquire the accentuated organoleptic characteristics ofquality red wine. The product has the herbaceous perfume of Cabernet, but agesmore quickly. Table 4 shows the analytical data of a wine made in the Suterwinery (San Rafael) in 1974, which was given high marks in the wine tasting tests.Table 5 provides analytical data of the wines made at different levels of rawmaterial maturity.

CG 14.260 GibixRuby Cabernet

This is a very high yielding variety (Figure 2) it has an extraordinary capacity foraccumulating sugars, reaching good maturity in the area, in spite of its consider-able load. It shows a loss in its pH at the end of the ripening process, i.e. it agesrapidly, beginning overmaturity before others here considered. It reaches 12° or13° Baume, approximately at the end of March. As a reference, Malbeck reachesmaturity in this area during the first fortnight of March.

Characteristics of the must. Average analytical data, following 2 years of harvests inthe Rama Caida zone, and 5 years in La Guevarina (Villa Atuel, San Rafael,Mendoza), are shown in Table 6.

Characteristics of the wine. CG 14.260 gives an excellent quality wine, with a verygood colour. Table 7 shows analytical data of the wines made at different degreesof maturity of the raw material.

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400(++) Highly significant

1974 1974

V I L L A A T U E L

Figure 3. Yield of 'Caberinta' expressed as a percentage, in comparison withCabernet and Cereza, extracted from comparative yield trials with statistical

designs. (++) Highly significant.

Figure 4. 'Caberinta' vine trained in 'espaldero'

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Figure 5. 'Caberinta' vine trained in 'parral' at 3X3 m. This vineyard wasbudded in 1980 on 8-year-old plants of CG 2.539 (Gibi X Cabernet Sauvignon), by

Woody "I" budding. This year production reached 20.4 tons ha"1.

Table 8. Average Analytical Data of Musts from 'Caberinta' CG14.892 for Two Areas in San Rafael

Place and yearsAverage date

of harvestDegreesBaume

Total acidin tartaric

pH


'Caberinta' CG 14.892 GibiXRuby Cabernet

It has functionally feminine flowers, and requires the interspersion of some of theother red varieties from this list for its pollination. It has very good productivity(Figure 3) and is late sprouting. In Rama Caida it reaches 12—13° Baume in themiddle of March. As a reference, Malbeck reaches the same stage of maturity inthe area in the first fortnight of March.

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1 74 ANGEL A. GARGIULO

Table 9. Analytical Data for Wines Made from 'Caberinta' CG 14.892


3/22/76 R. Caida3/20/79 R. Caida3/24/75 L. Guev.3/16/76 L. Guev.3/8/78 L. Guev.3/29/79 L. Guev.

Alcohol

13.0013.9014.1014.4814.6015.80

Total acid intartaric (g °/J

6.376.376.005.025.105.25

Acid vol.in acetic

(g %)

0.460.300.300.180.300.33

SO2

(mgl-1)

901308056

145131

Reducingsugar

(gl-)

2.33——

2.015.00

Characteristics of the must. Average analytical data of harvests over a series of years,for two areas in San Rafael, are shown in Table 8.

Characteristics of the wine. The wine obtained is of good colour, good acidity, andwith individual characteristics very similar to Cabernet Sauvignon but moreintense in its bouquet and herbaceous taste. Another outstanding characteristic isthe rapid ageing of the wine; after 2 years, it acquires the maturity that CabernetSauvignon reaches only after 5. This is also economically important, as it avoidsimmobilisation of capital. In several wine tasting evaluations made with local andforeign technical experts there is agreement in emphasising the excellent qualityof wine made with this variety. Table 9 shows the analytical data of some winesmade with different levels of maturity at harvesting.

CG 26.189 GibixBarbera d'Asti

This is a highly productive variety (Figure 6), that has functionally feminineflowers. It reaches maturity between 12° and 13° Baume, approximately at theend of March in Rama Caida. As a reference, Malbeck ripens in the same areaduring the first fortnight of March.

Characteristics of the must. Average analytical data of a series of years, and for twocultivated areas of San Rafael, are shown in Table 10. The determination of acidscorresponding to the year 1976 shows a high malic acid content (Table 11). Thequantity greatly exceeds the norm for the zone, and even that specified for colderregions in traditionally acid varieties. The citric content is also high, and theseacids give the wine a nice fruity taste.

Table 10. Average Analytical Data for Musts of CG 26.189 fromTwo Areas of San Rafael

Total acidAverage date Degrees in tartaric

Place and years of harvest Baume (g °/00) pH

Rama Caida 1976/80 4/2 13.00 6.46 3.31LeGuevarina 1974/80 3/26 13.58 7.58 3.37

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BALANCE BETWEEN QUALITY AND QUANTITY 1 75

% <++)

300 -i 283%

200

100100% • 100%

210%

I1974 1974

V I L L A A T U E L

Figure 6. Yield of CG 26.189 expressed as a percentage, in comparison withCabernet and Cereza, extracted from comparative yield trials with statistical

designs. ( + + ) Highly significant; (+) significant.

1974 1976 1977 1974 1976 1977 1974

V I L L A A T U E L

Figure 7. Yield of 'Rieslina' expressed as a percentage, in comparison withCabernet and Cereza and Sultanina (Thompson Seedless), extracted from com-parative yield trials with statistical designs. (+ +) Highly significant; (*) very near

to the threshold of significance; (-) not significant.

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1 76 ANGEL A. GARGIULO

Table 11. Acid Content of Wine Made from CG 26.189

Place and yearDate of Tartaric Malic acid Citric acidharvest acid (g I"1) (g I"1) (g I"1)

Le Guevarina 1976 3/27 3.570 3.293 0.643

Figure 8. 'Rieslina' trained in 'parral'.

Characteristics of the wine. The wine obtained is tannic, and has a very high acidity,which can be used to correct this deficiency in other wines. Analytical data of 3years' harvests in Rama Cafda and 4 in Le Guevarina are shown in Table 12.

'Rieslina' CG 38.049 Riesling RenanoX CG 377 (GibiX Sultanina)

This is a white variety that combines Riesling characteristics with high productivity(Figure 7). It is also seedless, very flexible in its adaptation to soils and veryvigorous (Figures 8-9). In Rama Caida, it reaches 12-13° Baume during the firstweek of April. As a reference, Malbeck reaches the same maturity during the firstfortnight of March.

Characteristics of the must. The quality of the must is good and its great stability tooxidation is noteworthy. Analytical data, averaged for a series of years for twocultivated areas in San Rafael, are shown in Table 13. As can be observed, thismust has a large quantity of tartaric acid and so would be suited to regions

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Table 12. Analytical Data for CG 26.189 Wines


Date of harvest and origin Alcohol

Acid vol.in acetic

(g %„)SO2

(mg I"1)Tartaric

acid(gr ' )Malic

acid (g 1"Citric

acid(gl-')Lactic

acid (g I"1)

4/19/76 R. Caida3/16/77 R. Caida3/27/79 R. Caida4/8/76 L. Guev.3/17/77 L. Guev.3/21/78 L. Guev.4/3/79 L. Guev.

10.9313.2012.4015.2213.1015.1314.93

8.027.205.707.875.250.156.00

0.150.290.550.450.520.400.45

9799

1439243

153112

TT

2.041.5002.139.194.01

4.320 0.643 0.240

2w

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1>>o

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mmmmm

Figure 9. Mother plant (original seedling) of 'Rieslina' trained in 'espaldero'.

Table 13. Average Analytical Data for Musts of 'Riesling'

Place and years

RamaCaida 1974/80Le Guevarina 1974/80

Place and years

Rama Caida 1976Le Guevarina 1976

Average dateof harvest

4/63/24

Date of Tartaricharvest acid (g I"1

4/14 5.0003/29 4.600

DegreesBaume

13.6113.33


(g %)

4.924.42

P H

3.343.40

Malic acid Citric acid') (gl-1) (gl"1)

0.9801.119

0.1090.180

with hot summers, since the acid does not decompose easily at high temperatures.In our region, the problem is a lack of acidity in most of the white winesproduced.

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Table 14. Analytical Data for Wines Made from 'Rieslina'


4/14/76 R. Caida3/25/77 R. Caida4/16/79 R. Caida3/26/76 L. Guev.3/9/77 L. Guev.3/11/78 L. Guev.3/28/79 L. Guev.

Alcohol

13.6012.1015.6714.4013.8214.1014.40


(g %)

6.005.404.504.745.255.623.75

Acidvol. inacetic(g %)

0.450.300.500.490.330.270.50

SO2

(mg I"')

130673990439878

Reducingsugar(g I"1)

7.64

5.632.20T1.81

11.55

P H

2.923.20

3.05

Tartaric acid(g I"1)

3.0002.500

2.390

Malic acid(gl")

0.0700.160

0.680

Lactic acid(g I'1)

0.1700.280

0.280

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LIGHT RED, RUBY,ALCOHOLIC,

WELL-BALANCED, STRONG HERBACEOUS FLAVOUR.SCORE: 8.5 14.5° pHj 3.64

DARK CLARET, PLEASANT ACIDITY,

FRUITY, MELLOW,SCORE: 8.0 13.0° pHj 3.75

CLARET.GOOD ACIDITY, VINOUS.SCORE: 6.5 12.0* p H : 3.40

3.90 4.12 4.30 4.80 ACIDITY °/oa IN TARTARIC

Figure 10, Organoleptic characteristics perceived by the tasters: CG 2.539.

£3 —

24 —

23 —

22 —

21 —

++

337 4.20

+

4.67

++

1 15.17 5,47

+II

5,82 5.85

+

6.87

PLEASANT FLAVOUR, UNBALANCED, FLAT.SCOREi 6.0 13.5° pH:3.50

FRUITY FLAVOUR, OUTSTANDING, BALANCED,

GOOD ACIDITY, FRESH,SCORE: 8.0 12.6° pHi 3,20

FRUITY FLAVOUR, GOOD ACIDITY, LOW ALCOHOL.

SCORE; 7.0 12.0° pH:3.03

6.87 ACIDITY °/o*. IN TARTARIC

Figure 11. Organoleptic characteristics perceived by the tasters: 'Rieslina'

Characteristics of the wine. The wine obtained from this variety is acid, fresh andwith a perfume like Riesling Renano. In our wine tastings it has obtained thehighest marks. Analytical data of wine making over a series of years are shown inTable 14.

Tasting Tests

In order to compare wines made from crosses with those from classic varieties,statistical analyses were made comparing Cabernet Sauvignon wine with CG 2.539wine, using the Mann-Whitney test. The results of five wine tastings werecompared, with no significant differences in four of them, whilst the fifth wassignificantly different in favour of CG 2.539. The varieties already selected fortheir quality and yield were made into wine at different levels of ripeness. Thesewines were evaluated by tasting with a higher number of tasters, in an attempt to

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find differences. If differences are detected, the chemical analysis of the wines'components helps us to identify some of the causes. Figures 10 and 11 illustratethe organoleptic characteristics perceived most frequently by the tasters, themarks being averaged. Each cross corresponds to a different sample.

References

GARGIULO, A.A. (1971) Obtención de nuevas cepas de calidad y alta productión paraelaboratión de vinos finos, IDIA, 280, 47-64.

GARGIULO, A.A. (1972a) Obtención de nuevos cultivares de vid sin semillas, IDIA, 290,37-46.

GARGIULO, A.A. (1972b) Obtención de nuevos cultivares precoces de vid, IDIA, 298,47-54.

GARGIULO, A.A. AND ROLDAN, M.A. (1978) Nuevas variedades de vid. Para vinificar,apirénicas, precoces, Publicatión de tirada internet, 41.

HIARING, P. (1973) Enologists name Olmo merit award winner. Plan Big 73 meeting, Winesand Vines, 3, 24-26.

OLMO, H.P. (1980) La produzione di vini di qualita nei climi caldi, ATTI, 32, 246-253.VEGA, J., ALCALDE, A. AND CINTA, W. (1962) Variedades de vid que se cultivan en la region

de Cuyo, Republica Argentina, Coleccion Agropecuaria del INTA, 8, 267.

Appendix: Characteristics and Progenitors of Two Other Useful Varieties

CG 175.169 is a variety selected for its Cabernet type herbaceous flavour (greenpepper), obtainable even in warm regions. Its progenitors are:

f CG 14.443 { J ? " f _ .CG 175.169 1 Cabernet Sauvignon

I CG 19.387 ( ^feck . .^ Cabernet Sauvignon

CG 146.781 has been selected for its high yield and good quality. Grapes of thisvariety make a full-bodied, strongly coloured wine. Its progenitors are:

, CG 14.443 ( ^ _ .CG 146.781 \ | Cabernet Sauvignon

CG 14.178 ( ^ .| Cabernet Sauvignon

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quality and quantity: are they compatible?

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