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    PUPPY

    HOUSETRA INING:

    THE ULTIMA TE GUIDE

    2ND

    EDITION

    BY NA T H A L I E LA FLEUR

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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

    N a th L a f E n t er p r ise w w w .p u p p y -h o u se t r a in in g .c o mA l l R ig h ts R e se r v e d W o r ld w i d e

    2

    DISCLA IMER

    These warranties exclude all incidental or consequential damages. Our

    company, and its owner, will not be liable for any damages whatsoever,

    including without limitation, veracity, validity, or legality of the information

    contained in this document, any morale issue, pecuniary loss and/or expense.

    Although every precaution has been taken in preparation of this book, thepublisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions.

    Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the

    information contained herein.

    COPYRIGHT NOTE

    This book contains copywrited material, trademarks and other proprietary

    information. You may not modify, publish, transmit, participate in the

    transfer or sale of, create derivative works of, on in any way exploit, in

    whole or in part, any Proprietary or other Material.

    http://www.puppy-housetrain/http://www.puppy-housetrain/
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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

    N a th L a f E n t er p r ise w w w .p u p p y -h o u se t r a in in g .c o mA l l R ig h ts R e se r v e d W o r ld w i d e

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    T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S

    A b o u t t h is B o o k a n d a L i t t le B i t A b ou t M e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5I n t r o d u c t ion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7C h a p t er 1 : E ssen t ia l F a ct s y o u N ee d t o K n o w B ef o r e w e S t a r t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

    What to Expect..........................................................................................................9

    When Will my Puppy Need to Eliminate? ..............................................................9

    How Frequently will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?............................................10

    Where my Puppy should Eliminate? .....................................................................11

    Give Me a Sign ...................................................................................................12

    Puppy or Adult Is There a Difference?..............................................................13

    C h a p t er 2 : T im e f o r E x ec u t iv e D ec is i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4Outdoor or Indoor Training?..................................................................................14

    Getting Prepared .....................................................................................................14

    Choosing an Elimination Zone or Toilet Stop ......................................................15

    C h a p t er 3 : L ea sh a n d C o l l a r T r a in in g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8What Kind of Collar and Leash should I Buy?.....................................................18

    How to Get My Puppy Used to his Leash and Collar?.........................................19

    C h a p t er 4 : C r a t e T r a i n in g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1Den Sweet Den........................................................................................................21

    What Kind of Crate Should I Buy?........................................................................21

    How Big a Crate Should I Buy?.............................................................................22

    Crate Training Step-by-Step...................................................................................23

    Crate Training During the Night............................................................................26

    How Long can I Let my Puppy in her Crate? .......................................................27

    The Surefire Way to Get your Adult Dog Used to Her Crate..............................28

    The Big DONTS during Crate Training...............................................................28

    Sorry, but I just cant do it! ....................................................................................29

    Conclusion...............................................................................................................31

    C h a p t er 5 : W h a t s F o o d G o t t o D o w i t h i t ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2Is it Really Worth the Extra Penny? ......................................................................32

    Regular Feeding Equals Regular Elimination Habits...........................................33

    The Biggest Mistake You Can Make Relating to Food........................................33How Many Times Should I Feed My Dog? ..........................................................34

    How Much Food Is Enough? .................................................................................34

    Label Reading 101 ..................................................................................................35

    Water........................................................................................................................36

    C h a p t er 6 : H o u set r a in in g S t ep -b y - S t ep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7The Original Seven-Step Technique......................................................................37

    In More Details Now ..............................................................................................37

    More Tips and Information on Housetraining ......................................................41

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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

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    Housetraining the Adult Dog .................................................................................43

    The Big DONTS During Housetraining ..............................................................44

    C h a p t er 7 : A S c h ed u le f o r E v er y o n e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6A Housetraining Day in your Puppys Life ..........................................................46Some Pieces of Advice for Full Time Workers ....................................................48

    More Tips ............................................................................................................49

    C h a p t er 8 : A W o r d A b o u t P a p er T r a in i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 1Paper Management in Three Steps ........................................................................52

    Making the Transition.............................................................................................52

    One Last Word ........................................................................................................53

    C h a p t er 9 : W o w , I t s S p o t le ss C le a n in H er e! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Just Tell Me Why....................................................................................................54

    No Time for a Botched Job ....................................................................................54Products to Avoid ...................................................................................................54

    Homemade Products...............................................................................................55

    Commercial Products..............................................................................................55

    Effective Step-by-Step Cleaning Methods ............................................................56

    In More Details Now ..............................................................................................57

    More Cleaning Tips ................................................................................................58

    Its Now a Habit......................................................................................................58

    Conclusion...............................................................................................................59

    C h a p t er 1 0 : T h e S o lu t io n s C o r n er . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0So Many Problems, so Many Solutions ................................................................60

    Supervision: Not Just for Kids ...............................................................................60

    Common Housetraining Problems with Puppies ..................................................61

    But He Was Perfectly Housetrained!.....................................................................64

    Common Housetraining Problems with Adult Dogs ............................................65

    The Solution for Most Housetraining Problems ...................................................67

    F r eq u e n t ly A sk ed Q u est io n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8H o u set r a in in g T i p s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3C o n c l u s io n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5B o n u s 1 : S c h ed u le H e l p er . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

    B o n u s 2 : E q u i p m en t C h e ck l i s t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7

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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

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    A B O U T T H I S B O O K A N D A L I T T L E B I T A B O U T M E

    Ive lived with dogs all my life and I can honestly say that Im a dog

    passionate person. Ive always been fascinated by how much a dog can

    learn if you take the time to teach him. At the moment, I live with a Golden

    Retriever who is a typical book dog. You know the kind of dog you can

    train by following the training principles you can read in most books. I also

    have a Miniature Schnauzer who is completely the opposite! I had to write

    my own book to train her. I had to figure out how her head was working and

    that gave me a whole new perspective on dogs.

    I decided to write this book because there are lots of dogs like my Miniature

    Schnauzer who dont fit completely in traditional training, that are not your

    typical book dog. You have to think of new ways to help them

    understand.

    As for the content of this book, although grammatically-speaking I should

    use it to refer to your dog or puppy, I couldnt bring myself to use it. For

    me a dog is not just a thing. So I used he or she so you could relate more

    easily the information Im providing you with your puppy. Ive also opted

    for the direct style. This book is for you and since I really want to help you

    establish a great relationship with your dog and get through this

    housetraining phase as easily as I can, it made more sense to me to write this

    book as if I was talking to you in person.

    Technically speaking, housetraining is the process of teaching your dog to

    eliminate outside. Since a lot of people arent aware of this, Ive decided to

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    use the term housetraining as a general concept and use the expressions

    outdoor training and indoor training to make the difference between the

    two methods you can choose from.

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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

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    I n t r o d u ct i o n

    First of all, let me thank you for buying my book. You wont be

    disappointed. As I promised you on my web site, I will help you go through

    the housetraining phase of your puppy every step of the way.

    Why a book on housetraining? Because it is the #1 reason why owners give

    up their dog or have him put down. I wrote this guide because I want to

    make a difference. In fact, Ive decided to make it my mission to save asmany dogs as I can by helping people to housetrain their dog. The fact that

    you bought this book proves that you care and thats why I want to help you.

    Ive structured this guide in a very practical manner starting with essential

    facts you need to know to start housetraining your dog. In chapter 2 entitled

    Time for Executive Decisions, I present you with diverse situations and

    decisions you have to make so that housetraining your puppy fits perfectly

    your lifestyle, your schedule and your environment.

    I then talk about two types of training that you should do right away and that

    will facilitate tremendously the housetraining process. Chapter 5 is devoted

    to food and the considerable role it plays in housetraining your puppy. In

    the next chapter, Housetraining Step-by-Step, youll f ind all the details

    you need to teach your dog when and where to eliminate. Chapter 7

    includes a typical schedule that you can easily follow or adapt. In chapter 8,

    I deal with paper training and the reasons why it can only be a temporary

    solution.

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    Although I have no doubt that your puppy is a pure genius, he will make

    some mistakes. Youll find in chapter 9, Wow! Its Spotless Clean in

    Here! all the information pertaining to cleaning, from the household

    products to avoid to the tools available on the market to make your life

    easier.

    Finally, in the last chapter, The Solutions Corner, youll find several

    solutions to housetraining problems that most books dont talk about. I

    really thought it was important to give you as many solutions as possible so

    you would know what to do if you encounter these problems.

    Lets start!

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    P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n

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    C H A P T E R 1 : E S S E N T I A L F A C T S Y O U N E E D T O K N O WB E F O R E W E S T A R T

    What to ExpectFirst of all, you cant expect your puppy to be fully housetrained and fully

    reliable before shes six month of age. That being said, a dog can be

    housetrained between one to six weeks. A lot depends on your puppys size

    and breed and mostly the efforts you put into housetraining her.

    There is also the fact that your puppy wont have adequate bladder and

    bowel controls before shes 16 weeks old. In other words, shes not able to

    hold it for long periods so you must be extra vigilant during that period.

    But that doesnt mean that you cant start housetraining her the minute she

    put her paws into your home. It just means that you have to expect your

    puppy to have a couple of accidents. But dont worry, this Guide contains

    everything youll need to handle these little mishaps, from how to react tohow to clean up.

    When Will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?One of the key to housetraining success is being able to predict when your

    dog will need to eliminate. Your puppy will most likely need to relieve

    herself:

    First thing in the morning

    After meals because the expansion of the stomach will exert pressure

    on the bladder and the colon

    After drinking water

    After waking up from a nap

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    During and/or after playing or exercising

    After chewing on her chew toys

    After any excitement (someone knocking at the door, guests arriving

    for example)

    After a ride in the car (thats why t h e f i r st t h i n g you must do when

    you bring your puppy home is to bring her to her Elimination Zone

    (EZ) or her Toilet Stop (TS) so she can relieve herself)

    During the active periods (between six and ten in the morning and

    five and nine in the evening)

    After smelling another dogs urine or seeing her urinate

    When she leaves her crate

    Last thing at night

    As you can see, your puppy will need to go out quite often. But dont

    despair, as she grows up she will need to be taken outdoor less often.

    How Frequently will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?Heres a table that sums up the frequency of trips to the elimination zone or

    the toilet stop required day and night depending on the age of your puppy.

    Age Frequency Trips during the night6 t o 8 w e ek s E v e r y 3 0 1 , 4 5 2 , 6 0 3 t o

    9 0 m i n u te s41 o r 2

    8 t o 1 2 w e ek s E v e r y t w o h o u r s 11 2 t o 1 6 w e ek s E v e r y th r e e h o u r s 1 1 , N o n e 2 3 4

    1 6 to 2 0 w e ek s E v e r y fo u r h o u r s N o n e2 0 t o 3 0 w e ek s 4 t o 6 t im e s/ d a y N o n e3 0 + w ee k s 3 o r 4 t im es/ d a y N o n e1 2 m o n t h s o l d T h r e e t im e s a d a y N o n e1 F o r th e to y a n d sm a ll b r ee d s (d og s u p to 2 0 p o u n d s)2 F o r th e m e d iu m b r ee d s ( d og s u p to 5 0 p o u n d s)3 F o r th e la r g e b r e e d s ( d o g s f r o m 5 0 t o 8 5 p o u n d s)4 F o r th e g ia n t b r ee d s ( d o g s o v e r 8 5 p o u n d s)

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    Finally, your puppy will usually want to defecate between 1 and 30 minutes

    after eating and to urinate within 20 minutes of drinking a lot of water.

    Of course, these are general estimates. If you use the blank schedule, your

    puppys internal clock wont have any secret for you in no time. Youll be

    able to predict when she needs to go and since dogs learn by repetition,

    every time she goes at the r ig h t place she reinforces a good behavior.

    During the first week, the more the better. Thats why it is a good idea to

    take some time off when you bring your puppy home. By establishing good

    habits from day one, youll be able to spend the rest of your life together

    enjoying each and every moment.

    If you decide to take a week off, dont make the mistake of having the puppy

    with you all the time because you wont be there all the time when you goback to work and youll make it harder for your puppy to adjust. Instead,

    follow the schedule for people at home starting on page 45. That way, youll

    kill two birds with one stone: 1) youll speed up your puppys housetraining

    process by bringing her outdoor or to her designated place indoor more often

    than you could if you were working; and 2) youll help your puppy learn that

    being alone is not the end of the world.

    Where my Puppy should Eliminate?There are only two places your dog can eliminate: outdoor at her

    elimination zone or indoor at her toilet stop. One of the most frequent

    mistake new owners make is to think that paper training is the first step to

    housetraining. It is NOT.

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    Housetraining, or outdoor training, is the process of teaching your puppy to

    eliminate outsideALL the time while indoor training involves teaching your

    dog to eliminate at a designated place, her toilet stop, insideyour house or

    apartment.

    Give Me a SignMost dogs follow a ritual just before eliminating. Your task is to learn to

    read your dog. To help you with this task, here are the signs you shouldpay attention to:

    Your puppy whimpers;

    Her tail is rising;

    She runs around in circle;

    She sniffs intently the floor, carpet, ground in a quest for the right

    spot!

    She paces restlessly;

    She scratches the door that leads to her elimination zone;

    She moves away from the playing area;

    She squats.

    At the moment you see any of these behaviors, stop whatever you are doing,

    put her leash on and take her outside to her elimination zone or inside to her

    toilet stop. If she starts peeing, interrupt her by saying a firm outside or

    toilet and then take her to the EZ or TS.

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    Puppy or Adult Is There a Difference?

    The housetraining method is the same for a puppy or an adult. The only

    difference is that an adult dog can hold it a lot longer than a puppy. So, it

    may seem easier to train an adult dog, but it can also be tricky since your

    adult dog comes with a background and you dont always know how her

    previous owner trained her.

    The crate training part of the method may take a bit longer with an adult dog

    but dont worry I will give you a surefire way to get your adult dog used to

    her crate.

    You now have all the essential information behind housetraining. It is now

    time for you to make some important executive decisions.

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    C H A P T E R 2 : T I M E F O R E X E C U T I V E D E C I S I O N S

    Outdoor or Indoor Training?

    Depending on your situation, you have to decide if you want to train your

    dog to eliminate outside or inside your home.

    I highly recommend you to train your dog to go outside if you have access to

    a backyard, a park or the street.

    If you live in a high-rise or you are a disabled person and its almost

    impossible for you to get outside quickly, you should train your dog to

    eliminate in a specific place inside your house or apartment. Owners of a

    toy breed who live in a region where it gets cold in the winter may also

    decide to train their dog to go inside.

    Getting PreparedIt is always better to get everything prepared before your puppys arrival.

    But dont worry, if you already have your puppy Ill help you get set right

    away. During the housetraining process, well use two kinds of

    confinements: short term and long term. To confine your dog for a short

    period of time, youll use a crate. Youll find in chapter 4: CrateTraining,

    all the information you need to choose the right crate for your dog and how

    to get him used to his crate.

    When youll leave your puppy for more than a couple of hours, youll use

    long term confinement. To this end, youll have to block part of a room in

    your house in which youll put your puppys crate, paper on the floor and a

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    couple of chew toys. Its a good idea to put a plastic sheet under the paper to

    protect the floor even more. Well call this place your puppys domain.

    The kitchen is usually the best choice because it is a busy place. Dogs really

    need to feel that they are part of the family and being in the middle of all the

    action is highly motivating for them. In general, a kitchen floor is also easy

    to clean up which is a must during housetraining.

    To block part of the room, you can use baby gates. They are easy to install

    and to open when its time to get your puppy outside. You can also use a

    play pen to confine your dog. Most pet stores have them. These tools are

    more expensive though. When I was housetraining my dogs, I used a couple

    of plywood boards to block the kitchen entries and they worked just fine.

    So, your puppys domain should be delimitated with gates or board, his crateshould be in one corner and the rest of the floor covered with paper. By the

    way, butcher or brown paper is a lot better than newspaper since it doesnt

    contain ink, therefore it is a lot less messy. Your puppy should have a

    couple of chew toys to play with. One very popular chew toy is a Kong

    because you can fill it with peanut butter, kibbles and other favorite treats to

    your dog to keep him occupied. As your puppy grows, you can expand his

    domain.

    Choosing an Elimination Zone or Toilet StopYou have to decide where you want your puppy to eliminate. For those of

    you who will outdoor train their puppy, choose a place that is easily

    accessible and relatively quiet and that wont get too muddy. For example, I

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    chose a corner of my backyard not too close to the street so my dogs wont

    get distracted when its time to go. We will call this place the Elimination

    Zone (EZ).

    Of course, for the city dog, the elimination zone will probably be the gutter.

    No matter which spot you choose, just follow the seven-step technique

    (p. 37) and everything is going to be fine.

    The reason I want you to choose a spot and always bring your dog there is

    that dogs have a very powerful sense of smell. It only takes one pee and

    poop for your dog to recognize the spot after that. The smell will trigger

    your dogs desire to eliminate and speed up the whole process.

    Dogs also want to refresh their spot or mark another dogs spot with

    their own smell, so unless you want to stop at every telephone posts andevery hydrants you encounter, dont let your dog sniff those when youre

    going on a walk with him.

    The toilet stop is the equivalent of the elimination zone but its inside your

    house. You have to choose a place that wont be in the way, but not too

    isolated so that your puppy will have a hard time finding it. I would

    recommend the bathroom. The floor surface is usually easy to clean up,

    there is generally a fan that makes it easier to get rid of the odor and it is

    usually on the same floor as the one where youll set up your puppys

    domain.

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    The base of a litter box or a low-base plastic box lined with paper would be

    perfect. For those of you who also have a cat, forget the idea of having your

    four-legged friends share the same litter box. Believe me, it wont work and

    youll have more problems to solve that you can think of.

    Some people choose to have their dog eliminate in a low-base storage box

    (like those you can find in hardware stores and that you can slide under your

    bed) lined with grass and put on the balcony. It is certainly a good idea, but

    remember that at one point youll have to replace the grass.

    Ok. So your puppys domain is ready, you know if you want him to

    eliminate inside or outside and you have chosen the perfect spot for him. It

    is now time for you to accomplish your first tasks as a new owner: get your

    puppy used to his leash and collar.

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    C H A P T E R 3 : L E A S H A N D C O L L A R T R A I N I N G

    First things first. You have to train your puppy to accept his collar and

    leash. In the housetraining method Im going to show you, you have to walk

    your puppy to his elimination zone or his toilet stop on leash. Until your

    puppy knows what you expect from him and where hes supposed to

    eliminate, youll have to help him.

    What Kind of Collar and Leash should I Buy?Since your puppy will outgrow his collar a number of times before reaching

    adulthood, I recommend you to buy a simple, inexpensive, nylon buckle

    collar. If you still havent made your trip to the pet store to get everything

    youll need for your new family addition, youll realize once there that the

    choice of collars and leashes is almost unlimited.

    Collars also come in a variety of size, usually from 10 to 24 inches. To

    know which size to buy, measure your dogs neck very loosely with a

    measuring tape and add a couple of inches. For example, if your puppys

    neck is 10 inches, you should buy a 12-inch collar. One very practical collar

    is the adjustable collar. As its name suggests, it allows you to adjust the size

    of the collar as your puppy grows and has the great advantage of saving you

    money and a couple of trips to the pet store!

    As for the leash, I recommend a six-foot leash. It is a lot easier to walk a

    dog on a 6-foot leash than a shorter one. In addition, if you decide to attend

    obedience class with your puppy (which I strongly encourage you to do),

    youll already have the leash most trainers require you to get.

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    Youll find a checklist of everything youll need for your puppys arrival in

    Bonus 2.

    How to Get My Puppy Used to his Leash and Collar?

    T h e co l l a r :

    The first time youll put a collar on your puppy, hell probably scratch it a

    lot. Thats perfectly normal. By the way, once fastened, you should be able

    to slip two fingers under your puppys collar.

    To get your puppy used to his collar, put it on him 10 minutes at a time

    every hour for the first few days. Then let it on for 20 minutes for the next

    couple of days. After that, for half an hour and so on until he wears it all day

    long.

    NOTE: When you are leaving for work or just going out for a couple of

    hours, always take off your puppys collar when you put him in his crate.

    That way, you wont have to worry that your puppys collar gets stuck in the

    bars of the crate. I know what are the chances? One in a million, maybe,

    but why take the risk. Some dogs are real Houdini, dont find out the sad

    way that your dog was one such dog.

    T h e l ea sh :

    A very easy way to get your puppy used to his leash is to let him drag it

    around. Of course, you must be with your puppy and watch him when you

    do that. You dont want him to get stuck somewhere.

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    Once he doesnt seem to notice the leash, try picking it up but without

    pulling on it. Just follow your puppy without putting any pressure on the

    leash. You want your puppy to get used to you being close since hell have

    to learn to eliminate while hes on leash.

    There are lots of reasons why I want you to teach your dog to eliminate on

    leash. First of all, youll be able to control his activities. In other words,

    when its time to eliminate its not the time for him to explore every corner

    of the backyard.

    Puppies forget easily the reason why theyre outside if you let them sniff

    around instead of keeping them in the elimination zone where theyre

    supposed to get down to business. Once he has eliminated, your dog will

    have plenty of time to explore and play. Housetraining your puppy that wayhelps him learn that the sooner he eliminates the sooner he can play. Believe

    me, you will greatly appreciate having trained your dog following this

    method when Mother Nature wont be in a good mood or when youll be

    running late!!!

    Teaching your dog to eliminate on leash will also make your life a lot easier

    when youll be traveling and if you are thinking of getting into dog sport

    activities.

    Its now time to start crate training your dog.

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    C H A P T E R 4 : C R A T E T R A I N I N G

    Den Sweet DenWhat do experts mean by Dogs are denning animals? They mean that

    instinctively your dog wont want to soil the place where she sleeps and eats.

    Thats why a crate is the most useful tool you can use to dramatically speed

    up the housetraining process.

    Since your puppy wont want to soil her crate, she will develop bladder and

    bowel controls and learn to hold it until it is time to go to her elimination

    zone or toilet stop.

    Please dont let your own perceptions of a crate deprive your dog to satisfy

    her most basic needs. A lot of people think that putting a puppy in a crate is

    cruel. It is NOT. On the contrary, your puppys crate will become her own

    cozy place where she can go to rest. Most dogs continue to go in their crate

    even after the housetraining stage is over because it satisfies their profound

    denning instinct.

    Finally, a crate gives you peace of mind when you cant supervise or interact

    with your dog because you know that she is in a safe and comfortable place

    and cant destroy anything precious while shes there.

    What Kind of Crate Should I Buy?Youll find two kinds of crates in pet stores: wire crates and plastic pet

    carriers. The plastic crates are particularly useful if you plan to take your

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    dog on a plane since most of these crates are approved by airlines. They are

    also less heavy than wire crates.

    In addition, they dont allow as much air circulation as the wire crates do.

    On the one hand, it is an advantage in cold or wet climates since it will allow

    your dog to keep her body warm. On the other hand, however, it will be an

    inconvenient in hot or humid weather conditions.

    A lot of people put their dog in a crate when traveling by car. If you dont

    plan to use a crate for your car trips, please buy a dog seatbelt or tie your

    dogs leash on a regular seatbelt so your dog wont end up in the windshield

    if you have an accident. Anyway, a dog loose in a car is a very dangerous

    practice. One last word about dogs and cars: the interior of a car on a sunny

    day can reach 100o

    in less than 10 minutes, so please never let your dog

    unattended in a car.

    For those of you who have a big chewer on their hands, I recommend a wire

    crate. Most of them can be folded flat making them easy to store or carry

    around. Furthermore, puppies usually like the wire crate because it is more

    open and they can see a lot better what is going on.

    How Big a Crate Should I Buy?The most useful advice I can give you on this matter is: buy a crate that will

    be big enough for your dog to use once she has reached her full adult size.

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    Why? First, because it will allow you to save a lot of money and second,

    because it is very easy to reduce the size of the crate with cardboard or wire

    separator to fit your dogs size as she grows up.

    That being said, here are the principles to follow when choosing a crate:

    Height: Your dog must be able to stand without having to duck her head.

    Width: Your dog must be able to comfortably lie on her side and stretch out.

    Length: Your dog must be able to lie down completely stretched without

    having to curl up.

    When you bring your puppy home, all you have to do is to reduce the length

    of the crate by installing a cardboard, plywood board or wire separator. As

    your puppy grow, just move the separator to fit your dogs size.

    Do you really have to reduce the crates length? Yes. If your puppy has toomuch room in her crate she could easily decide to sleep in one end and

    eliminate in the other. That would defeat the whole purpose of using a crate

    to housetrain your puppy.

    Finally, once youve reduced the size of the crate, just look if your dog

    seems comfortable in it. If so, everything is OK!

    Crate Training Step-by-StepDogs learn by association. If something is positive, they will accept it easily

    and will look forward to it. On the other hand, if something is negative, they

    will want to avoid it. What we want here is to teach your puppy that a crate

    is something positive. Heres how to achieve this:

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    Step 1: Block the door open, sit beside your puppys crate, have your puppy

    sniff the treat in your hand and throw the treat in the crate. When

    your puppy goes in the crate to get the treat, praise her. Do this three

    or four times, and stop. Repeat the process as often as you can

    (every 15 minutes to half hour, for example) until your puppy goes in

    and out of the crate willingly. At the beginning, throw the treat in

    the front part of the crate and gradually throw it further and further

    in.

    It is very im p o r t a n t to praise your dog when she goes in and not when

    shes coming out of the crate. In fact, you shouldnt say a word when

    your puppy comes out of her crate. You dont want her to think that

    getting out of the crate is more fun than staying in it.

    Step 2: Still sitting beside the crate, throw the treat in the crate, close the

    door of the crate for 15-30 seconds and continue tossing small treats

    to your puppy during that time. Let your puppy out of the crate

    without saying a word.

    Repeat this step many times until your puppy stays quietly in hercrate about 4-5 minutes. Of course, you wont toss treats in the crate

    for 5 minutes so make sure when you throw the first treat in to also

    put a chew toy in the crate so your puppy has something to keep her

    occupied.

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    It is also a good time to introduce a cue word when your puppy goes

    in her crate easily. I simply use in your crate. Choose a word that

    comes naturally to you and that youll only use for that purpose.

    Crate training is not about beating world records! Dont try to push

    things to see how long your puppy will tolerate her crate. If you do

    that, you may end up with a puppy that will start whining to get out. It

    takes a lot more time to retrain a dog than to teach her correctly the

    first time.

    Step 3: Now, you will start to go about your business around the house while

    leaving your puppy in her crate. Remember to give her a chew toy

    when you put her in her crate. Since she will see or hear you close

    by, she will know that you havent abandoned her!

    Again, dont push things. After five minutes, release her from her

    crate but dont make a fuss about it. Continue practising this step

    and gradually increase the time you let her in her crate.

    Step 4: Finally, you will train your puppy to stay alone in her crate while

    youre not in the house. At the beginning, just leave for 10 to15 minutes. Go get the mail, go run an errand, water your flowers,

    etc. Use your imagination. Dont leave home for more than half an

    hour the first few times. Again, dont forget to let your puppy her

    favorite chew toy when you put her in her crate.

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    If you follow these steps, you should have a puppy going in her crate happily

    in no time. The main idea is to go slowly and gradually and make crate

    training a positive experience for your puppy.

    One last thing: why is the chew toy so important? Because 1) puppies sleep a

    lot during the day and 2) they usually fall asleep after chewing on their toy

    for 10-15 minutes. Crate training your puppy following this method allows

    you to teach your puppy two very valuable things: a) sleeping in her crate is

    the most natural and pleasant activity in the world, and b) she can chew on

    her chew toy only and nothing else; not your shoes, your chair legs, etc.

    To make sure your puppy sees her crate very positively, feed her in the crate.

    When shes finished eating, take her on leash to her elimination zone or her

    toilet stop.

    Crate Training During the NightWeve seen in the section How Frequently will my Puppy Need to

    Eliminate? that you will have to bring your puppy to her elimination zone

    or toilet stop at least once during the night.

    For the night, the crate should be in your bedroom so you can hear your

    puppy cries when she needs to eliminate. It is very IMPORTANT to get up

    and bring your puppy to her designated place so she can eliminate.

    If you dont, your puppy will eliminate in her crate and all your hard work

    crate training her will be in vain. Furthermore, a puppy who learns to soil

    her crate becomes extremely tough to housetrain afterward. So, get up.

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    Dont worry, you wont have to do this for the rest of her life. It is only

    temporary.

    The most important thing to remember when you take your puppy out of her

    crate during the night to have her eliminate is not to say a word. Just bring

    her to the designated place and once her business is done put her back to her

    crate without saying a word to her.

    Why? Because if you start talking to her or worst, play with her, she will

    think that its time to get up and have fun. She will learn to get up more

    often during the night to get play times. Of course, thats not what you want.

    A couple of days before getting your puppy, it is a good idea to wear an old

    t-shirt. Once you have your puppy, put your t-shirt in your puppys crate at

    night. This way, even though she cant see you in the dark, your scent willreassure her. This tip works for a lot of dogs.

    How Long can I Let my Puppy in her Crate?The number of hours you can let your puppy in her crate corresponds to her

    age. In other words, if your puppy is two months old you can let her two

    hours in her crate, if shes three months old, she can stay in her crate for

    three hours.

    When youre housetraining an adult dog, the maximum period of time you

    can crate your dog is four hours at a time. Later, when your dog is fully

    housetrained, you can decide to let her free in the house. Of course, expect

    to find dog hairs on the most comfortable chair or bed in your house!

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    The Surefire Way to Get your Adult Dog Used to HerCrate

    Sometimes an adult dog that has never been crate trained wont want to go in

    her crate. First, follow the method described in the section Crate Training

    Step-by-Step (p. 23).

    If your adult dog still doesnt want to go in, start feeding her in her crate.

    When its time to feed your dog, with her bowl in your hand, tell her go in

    your crate and put the bowl at the far end of the crate. Do this for a weekand I promise you that in no time all youll have to say is go in your crate

    and she will be running there.

    For me, this has become a permanent routine. I also consider this an

    excellent opportunity to practice my dogs sit-stay and down-stay.

    The Big DONTS during Crate Training

    DONT let your puppy in her crate longer than shes supposed to.

    (Remember: two months = two hours, three months = three hours,

    etc.).

    DONT use the crate to punish your dog. It is very important that

    your puppy sees her crate as a positive experience.

    DONT let your puppy out of her crate if shes whining or she starts to

    make a fuss. If that happens, wait for her to calm down before letting

    her out. A good habit to take is to ask your puppy to sit before

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    opening the door. A dog bolting out of a crate is dangerous both for

    you and her.

    DONT put the crate in an isolated room like the garage or the

    basement. It is very important for your puppy to be with you. The

    kitchen or family room is the ideal choice.

    DONT allow your children to go in the puppys crate. It is her place,

    her safe haven in the house.

    DONT crate your puppy until you got her used to her crate.

    DONT force your puppy in the crate and close the door. All youll

    achieve is scare her and it will take you a lot longer afterward to

    reintroduce her to her crate. Remember, every new experience in yourpuppys life must be positive.

    Sorry, but I just cant do it!If, after reading this chapter, you are still not convinced that crate training

    your puppy is the best thing you can do for her and you cant bring yourself

    to use a crate, you have two other options.

    You can use a tie-down or create a physical bond between you and your

    puppy.

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    T i e - d o w n

    A tie-down is simply a 3 or 4-foot leash that you attach to a heavy piece of

    furniture. It is very important, when you hook your puppy to the leash, that

    she wears a buckle collar and that you give her a chew toy to keep her

    occupied.

    Depending on the size of your puppy, you must adjust the length of the

    leash. Your puppy should be able to sit, stand, lie down and stretch while

    shes hooked to the tie-down. Dont let her too much leeway or she could

    decide to do her business at the end of the leash and come back to her post to

    continue playing.

    One last thing, NEVER tie-down your dog if youre not around to supervise

    her. It is extremely dangerous. Her legs can become entangled in the leash

    and she could even hang herself. Believe me, a crate is far more safer.

    P h y si c a l B o n d

    The difference between the tie-down and the physical bond is that the end of

    the leash is attached to you instead of a piece of furniture. It is more

    cumbersome to have a puppy attached to you, but it allows you to watch her

    like a hawk! Usually, a four-foot leash is perfect for this.

    Finally, even if you choose to use a tie-down or a physical bond, your

    puppys elimination needs dont disappear. You have to follow the

    housetraining method as if you were using a crate.

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    ConclusionThere are absolutely no doubts in my mind that crate training your dog is the

    most canine service you can render to your dog. Besides speeding up

    dramatically the housetraining process, a crate provides your dog with a safe

    place to rest. It also makes traveling with your dog by car more secure.

    Furthermore, if you have to let your dog to the vet overnight, you will make

    the separation a lot easier for your dog and help her recovery since she will

    be used to sleeping in a crate. Finally, lots of hotels wont accept dogs if

    they are not crate trained.

    Were almost there One last chapter to deal with and well really get into

    the heart of housetraining. But before we do so, you have to read the next

    chapter since food has a big impact on your puppys ability to get

    housetrained.

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    C H A P T E R 5 : W H A T S F O O D G O T T O D O W I T H I T ?

    Everything! I will show you in this chapter the important role food can play

    in your housetraining success or failure. I will also explain how food can

    impact your dogs health and behavior.

    Is it Really Worth the Extra Penny?Absolutely. Feeding a good quality food to your dog has a HUGE impact on

    housetraining and heres why.

    When you feed a good quality food to your dog, he needs to eat less of it to

    satisfy his hunger and to meet his nutritional needs. Consequently, the

    premium food bag may cost more, but it will last longer.

    A good quality food is also more easily digestible. So if you combine these

    two factors, you end up with a puppy that will eliminate less by-products.

    Furthermore, since the excrement will be smaller and firmer (because most

    of the food will be digested), it will be a lot easier for your puppy to hold it

    and learn to control his bowel movements. Needless to say that during

    housetraining, these are winning conditions!

    Good quality foods are made with nutritional ingredients. Your dog then

    gets everything he needs to keep him happy and healthy. Since a healthy

    dog doesnt have to visit the veterinarian many times a year, youll save an

    amazing amount of money on vet bills. Believe me, the annual cost of a

    premium quality food is a lot less than the cost of cheap food plus the vet

    bills.

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    dog to eat all the food in the world, youll lose all your appeal when it will

    be time for you to train him. Think about it. Why would your dog work for

    food if he can have what he wants, when he wants it!

    How Many Times Should I Feed My Dog?I firmly believe that a dog should be fed twice a day. For puppies, three

    meals are even better. Of course, if you work during the day and cant come

    back during your lunch break to feed your puppy, feed him two meals a day.

    It has been proven that feeding twice a day has a real positive impact onyour dogs behavior. Dog food stays in your dogs stomach between 4 to 8

    hours. Consequently, if you feed your dog only once a day, it means that he

    lives on an empty stomach 16 hours a day. Most behavior problems, like

    chewing and restlessness, originate from dogs who are simply hungry.

    On the other hand, if you feed your puppy twice a day, hell have an empty

    stomach only 8 hours a day which corresponds, if you think about it, to a

    good night sleep!

    How Much Food Is Enough?

    Start by feeding the portion indicated on the food bag depending on your

    puppys age and weight. The easiest way to know if you feed too much or

    not enough is, believe it or not, by counting the number of stools your dogproduces. If your dog defecates more than three times a day, you are giving

    him too much food. All you have to do is adjust the portion of food until

    your dog defecates three times a day.

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    By the way, dont switch to another type of food during housetraining. A

    puppys stomach is easily upset by a change of food and its hard to

    housetrain a puppy who has diarrhea! Once your puppy is housetrained, it

    will be easier for him to adapt to the change.

    Label Reading 101Ive told you how important a good quality food can be in you dogs life.

    However, I still have not told you how to differentiate a good quality food

    from a cheap one. The surefire way to make sure youre feeding your dogappropriately is to read the label to know exactly what is in the bag.

    Dog food is a science in itself and I wont pretend that I know everything

    about it. However, after reading a lot on that subject, I can give you one

    principle to follow that will help you make a good choice. Basically, two of

    the first three ingredients, and preferably the first two ingredients, listed on

    the label should be animal proteins (beef, chicken, lamb, fish). The law

    requires manufacturers to list the ingredients in the order of predominance

    by weight. So, the first ingredient listed on the label is the one found in

    biggest proportion in the food composition.

    Although it is a bit technical, I encourage you to read the article entitled

    Interpreting Pet Food Labels posted on the website of the Center forVeterinary Medicine at the following address:

    http://www.fda.gov/cvm/index/consumer/petlabel.htm.

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    WaterThe same principle for food applies to water. If you dont monitor how

    much goes in, you wont be able to predict how much will get out.

    During the housetraining process, you wont let your dog have access to all

    the water he wants. Youll give him water at specific moments and never

    after 7:00 p.m. if you dont want to get up three times during the night.

    However, if you get your puppy in the middle of a scorching heat, youll

    have to make an exception to the 7 oclock rule. When its very hot, I give

    my dogs ice chips. They love them and it really helps bring down their

    internal temperature.

    Once your dog is housetrained, you will make sure that he always has access

    to a fresh supply of water.

    Finally housetraining step-by-step is next.

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    C H A P T E R 6 : H O U S E T R A I N I N G S T E P - B Y - S T E P

    I firmly believe that every dog can be housetrained. It may sometimes take

    longer than we would like, but with a little bit of patience and consistency

    you will succeed.

    The Original Seven-Step Technique

    S t ep s W h a t to d o

    1 G e t y ou r p u p p y o u t o f h is c r a te o r h is d o m a in a n d p u t h is l ea sho n .

    2 A c c om p a n y h im t o h i s e l i m i n a t i on z on e o r t o i l e t s t o p .

    3 D O N T sa y a w o r d u n t i l h e s t a r t s e l i m in a t in g .4 W h en h e s ge t t in g d o w n t o b u s in ess , sa y y o u r co m m a n d w or d i n

    a so f t v o i ce .5 P r a i se h im l i k e c r a z y f o r e l i m in a t i n g a t t h e r ig h t p l a ce .6 P l a y w i t h y ou r p u p p y a co u p l e o f m in u t e s a t l e a s t .7 B r in g y o u r p u p p y b a ck to h i s c r a t e o r d o m a in .

    Follow these steps every time your puppy needs to eliminate and in no time

    youll have a housetrained dog, guaranteed!

    In More Details Now

    T h e R i g h t P a t h

    It is very important that you always follow the same path, use the same door,when accompanying your puppy to his elimination zone or toilet stop.

    Thats how youll teach your dog to ask you to go out or to go on his own to

    his toilet stop.

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    If your puppy starts eliminating on your way to the EZ or TS, say a firm

    outside or toilet (or whatever word you want to use), pick him up, bring

    him to his EZ or TS and follow the other steps (silence, command word,

    praise and play).

    A cc o m p a n y in g y o u r p u p p y t o h is e l im i n a t i on z o n e or t o i l e t st o p

    Why do I want you to accompany your puppy? First, because since your

    puppy is on leash and you can control his whereabouts, he wont do anything

    else but get down to business.

    Second, it is the only way for you to be sure that your dog has completely

    emptied both reservoirs. Furthermore, since praise is an important step to

    your puppys housetraining success, you MUST be there to praise him when

    he does the right thing.

    Third, youll see whats getting out of there! Some puppy gets diarrhea when

    you bring them home because of all the excitement. In these circumstances,

    it is very important to monitor closely the situation. A dog dehydrates very

    easily, particularly small puppies, dont hesitate to call your vet and ask

    him/her what to do if the diarrhea lasts more than a day.

    Fourth, it is the only way for you to count how many stools your dog

    produces in a day. As Ive mentioned before, your goal is three poops a day.

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    Finally, if you dont go outside with your puppy, theres a good chance that

    all hell want to do is come back inside because he wants to be with you. If

    you let him in thinking he doesnt need to go, I can guarantee you that hell

    probably relieve himselfinsidewithin a couple of minutes!

    S h h h h .. .

    Until your puppy starts to eliminate, you wont say a word. Some of you

    may be thinking: What does it change if I talk to my dog? First, you dont

    want him to get distracted. You brought him out for one purpose:

    eliminating.

    Second, you dont want to make one of the most common mistakes new

    owners make: If you were thinking like a dog, in other words associate an

    action with a consequence, heres the conclusion you would arrive at: when

    we go out I get all the attention, but the minute I relieve myself, no more

    attention and back in the house. Dogs are smart, you know. They like the

    outdoors and would much prefer staying outside then going back in the

    house. The final result would be a dog that holds it as long as he can so he

    can stay outside longer.

    E li m i n a t in g o n C o m m a n d

    For those of you who plan to participate in obedience, agility or any other

    dog activities, teaching your dog to eliminate on command will be very

    useful. And for those of you who dont plan to compete in any of these

    sports, this command will make your life a lot easier. Just think for example

    that you are in a hurry or youre late for an appointment, you certainly dont

    want to spend half an hour outside waiting for you dog to attend to the call

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    of nature! Youll also find this command very useful when its freezing

    outside or raining cats and dogs!

    You first have to choose a command word. Remember that you will only

    use that word for that purpose. A lot of people use hurry up, but dont

    hesitate to be creative. However, dont choose a word that you use regularly

    in casual conversations. For example, for those of you who have kids, I

    wouldnt use lets go! Im sure you can imagine what the result could

    be

    T e a ch i n g y o u r D og t o G o o n C o m m a n d

    1. Bring your dog to his elimination zone or toilet stop.

    2. Dont say a word. Remember, if you talk and pay attention to him,

    hell forget what hes supposed to do.

    3. The moment he starts to urinate or defecate, say your command word

    in a very soft tone of voice.

    4. Once finished, praise your dog lavishly.

    As you can see, its very easy to teach this command. But since dogs learn

    by repetition, it is very important to use it every time you bring your dog to

    his elimination zone or toilet stop. Once your dog has learned the command,

    he will get down to business rapidly and that will allow the both of you to

    spend more quality time together.

    P r a is e , p r a i se , p r a i se

    Praises are extremely important when youre housetraining your dog

    because thats how hell know that he has done the right thing. Dont

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    hesitate to praise your dog with a Goood boy and Goood girl every time

    your puppy does something you like.

    P l a y , a n a t u r a l d o g b eh a v i o r

    Dogs like to play. Nothing makes them more happy than playing with you.

    As Ive told you before, if you play with your dog, even if its only for a

    couple of minutes, AFTER he has eliminated, hell relieve himself a lot

    faster.

    More Tips and Information on Housetraining

    F o r th ose of y ou i n t h e N or t h

    Believe it or not, snow can slow down your puppys housetraining progress.

    How? If you let your puppy walk in the snow where he just relieved himself,

    hell bring snow with urine stuck in his paws back in the house.

    If you dont dry your puppys paws with a towel before putting him back to

    his crate or domain, the snow will melt in the crate or on the floor. Your

    puppy will then smell the urine and it may very well trigger his desire to

    eliminate again. Youll end up with an accident that could have been easily

    avoided.

    Keeping your puppys hair short and clean is important, in particular during

    the housetraining process.

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    I m p o r t a n ce o f p ic k i n g u p a f t e r y o u r d o g

    A t h o m e : As strange as it might seem, a dog wont defecate just beside

    another stool left on the ground. Consequently, if you dont pick up after

    your dog, he will gradually widen his elimination zone. So, if you dont want

    your whole backyard to become a doggy toilet, its better to keep the

    elimination zone clean.

    E v er y w h e r e el se: I cannot stress enough the importance of picking up after

    your dog when you bring him for a walk, in a park, camping, etc. Too many

    people hate dogs because some dog owners leave their dogs waste

    everywhere. Please, poop and scoop. Its the best contribution you can make

    to the improvement of the canine populations reputation.

    H e s n o t e li m i n a t i n g , w h a t sh o u l d I d o ?

    If youve spent 5 minutes with your puppy at his EZ or TS and he has not

    eliminated, put him back in his CRATE, let him there for 10 minutes and try

    again. Im sure that within three attempts your puppy will have relieved

    himself.

    T e a ch in g y o u r d o g t o r esp ec t t h e h o u se

    At one point, you will probably want to let your dog loose in the house. To

    achieve this, you have to teach your dog to respect the whole house. The best

    way is to let your puppy explore one room of the house at a time and alwaysAFTER he has completely emptied both bladder and bowel.

    Dont start the exploration of the house before your dog has learned to keep

    his domain clean and even then, you must watch him like a hawk! I would

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    also recommend to have your dog on leash during your adventure

    together.

    O u t d o o r T r a in i n g a n d I n f ec t io u s D i sea ses

    Most vets will recommend you not to take your puppy out for walks until he

    has been immunized against infectious diseases. For the city dog, this is

    particularly true since your puppy can catch diseases by sniffing the

    excrements of other dogs not immunized.

    Being aware of this, if you want your puppy to eliminate outdoor right away,

    I think the easiest way is to always use the same spot and not to let your dog

    sniff at other dogs excrements.

    Housetraining the Adult DogAs Ive told you previously, the housetraining method doesnt change with

    an adult dog. Its more a question of time than anything else: an adult dog

    can hold it and stay in his crate longer. Therefore, you can eliminate the

    hourly trips outside and plan for three or four trips a day.

    The first thing you have to do when you get an adult dog is to have him

    check by a vet. Once you know that your dog is in perfect health, you can

    start housetraining him. Of course, your dogs previous owner may have

    perfectly housetrained him. If thats the case, all youll have to do his show

    your dog his new elimination zone or toilet stop.

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    The Big DONTS During Housetraining

    DONT put your dogs nose in his mess. It has been proven over and

    over again that all you will accomplish is to make matters worse, scare

    your puppy and destroy any chance of building a strong relationship

    with him.

    DONT reprimand your dog after he has made a mistake. He wont

    remember what he has done. A dogs memory of his actions lasts only

    from 1 to 6 seconds. Thats why reprimanding your dog for his messwhen you arrive from work is absolutely pointless. From your dogs

    point of view, your arrival is something negative that he should be

    afraid of.

    DONT shout at your dog if you catch him in the act. Instead,

    interrupt him by saying a firm outside or toilet, pick him up

    (thats the only time you should pick up your dog to bring him to his

    elimination zone or toilet stop), put his leash on, go to the designatedspot, let him finish what he had started at the wrong place and then

    praise him lavishly for going at the right place. If you scold him, you

    will only teach him to eliminate when youre not around and thats

    exactly the opposite of what we want to accomplish. He may also find

    himself a hidden spot somewhere in your house where he can go

    peacefully! Again, thats not what we want. Calm and vigilance are

    your best allies when housetraining your dog.

    DONT walk your dog to have him eliminated. A walk should be a

    reward for eliminating quickly not the other way around. Believe me,

    your walks will become longer and longer once your dog will have

    figured out that eliminating means the end of the walk. He will

    suddenly be able to hold it for miles!

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    DONT let your dog roam freely in the house until he is completely

    and reliably housetrained. Thats one of the most common mistakes

    new owners make. Remember, a dog wont soil his leaving quarters,

    thats why youll use both types of confinements. Later, once your

    puppy has learned to control his bladder and that the designated place

    (EZ or TS) is the one and only place acceptable to do his business,

    youll be able to let him explore the rest of the house.

    DONT praise your dog for eliminating on the paper unless you are

    among the very few who will need to paper train their dog. The only

    reason I suggest putting paper on the floor is to make it easier for youto pick up the mess. If you dont mind picking up your puppys

    gifts directly from the floor, dont hesitate to forget the paper

    altogether.

    DONT forget that you are dealing with a puppy. He wont

    understand what you want until you have taught him in the simplest

    way. Thats why I use the seven-step technique. Its easy to follow

    and cant be more clear from a dogs point of view.

    In the next chapter, A Schedule for Everyone, Ive provided you with an

    example of what a typical day would be like during the housetraining phase

    of your puppy.

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    C H A P T E R 7 : A S C H E D U L E F O R E V E R Y O N E

    Getting a puppy doesnt mean that you have to change your lifestyle

    completely. What is important for your puppy is consistency. There is no

    doubt that adhering to a strict schedule in the beginning will speed up your

    puppys housetraining progress. If you cant follow a rigid schedule, it will

    take a bit longer, but youll get there dont worry.

    A Housetraining Day in your Puppys LifeLets now see what a day in your puppys life should be like when you are

    housetraining him.

    6:30 Get your puppy out of his crate, put his leash on and walk with him to

    the elimination zone or toilet stop. Dont say a word. When he starts

    peeing, use your command word. Once hes finished, praise him

    lavishly and wait for him to defecate. When he starts to poop use your

    command word again. Once hes finished, praise him as if he just

    found a pot of gold! Play with your dog for a couple of minutes.Bring him back in the house.

    6:45 Let him play in his domain.

    7:15 Feed your dog and give him some water.

    7:30 Bring your puppy to his elimination zone (EZ) or toilet stop (TS).

    Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your dog and bring him

    back in the house.

    7:45 Let your puppy play in his domain.

    8:00 Confine your puppy in his domain if you leave for the day or in his

    crate if you are at home.

    10:00 (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bring him to

    his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your dog.

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    Let him play in his domain for half an hour and confine him to his

    crate.

    Noon (for people at home) Get your puppy out of his crate and bring him to

    his designated place for elimination. Let him play in the kitchen for

    15 to 30 minutes then feed him and give him water.

    12:15 (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bring him to

    his EZ or TS again. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with him.

    Let him play in his domain for half an hour and confine him to his

    crate.

    2:00 p.m. (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bringhim to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play

    with your dog. Let him play in his domain for half an hour and

    confine him to his crate.

    4:00 p.m. (for people at home) Give your dog some water and bring him

    to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with

    your dog. Let him play in his domain for half an hour and

    confine him to his crate.

    6:00 p.m. Hopefully, all of you will be home by now. So, the moment you

    come back home bring your puppy to his elimination zone or

    toilet stop. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your

    dog. Bring him back in the house.

    6:15 p.m. Let your dog play and watch all the action in the kitchen from

    his domain. This is a perfect time to have a training session.

    Your puppy will be hungry and eager to learn. Dont hesitate to

    use a portion of his food ration as rewards. With 15 kibbles, you

    can practice 8 downs and 7 sits, all in less than 5 minutes!

    6:30 p.m. Put your puppy in his crate and give him his meal.

    6:45 p.m. Let your puppy drink and bring him to his EZ or TS. Once he

    has eliminated, play with your dog and bring him back in his

    domain.

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    8:45 p.m. Bring your puppy to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated,

    praise and play with your dog. Put him in his domain.

    11:00 p.m. One last trip to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, play with

    your dog briefly and confine him to his crate for the night.

    This is a general estimate. Keep the lapse of time between activities the

    same and you shouldnt have any problem. Also, use the blank schedule

    provided as Bonus 1 to determine your puppys elimination habits, and

    simply adjust this schedule accordingly.

    As you can see, all you have to do is to be consistent. Your puppy will grow

    up and the trips to the EZ and TS will become less frequent.

    The speed of your puppys housetraining progress depends a lot on the

    number of times you can bring him to his EZ or TS during a day.

    Some Pieces of Advice for Full Time WorkersFirst, try to get up 15 minutes earlier. This will allow you to accomplish two

    things: a) play longer with your puppy so hell sleep probably through the

    morning and b) youll have time to bring him to his EZ or TS one more time

    before leaving for work.

    Second, I encourage you to ask a neighbor to come by at least once duringthe day to bring your puppy to his EZ or TS. You can also hire a pet-sitter.

    If none of these options are possible, its not the end of the world but expect

    to have some cleaning up to do when youll come back home.

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    More Tips

    A l l is i n t h e b on dDont hesitate once your dog has eliminated to use the physical bond

    explained in chapter 4 to keep your puppy close to you. This reinforces the

    bond and helps create a strong relationship between you two.

    For example, you can easily have your puppy play with his chew toy at your

    feet while youre reading a book, responding to your emails or watching TV.

    You dont have to worry that hell make a mistake since hes tied to you.

    Y a h o o ! T h e w eek en d

    You may have noticed that the blank schedule that I gave you as Bonus 1 is

    a seven-day schedule. In other words, the housetraining schedule of your

    puppy wont change because its the weekend. If hes used to get up at

    6 oclock during the week, you can be pretty sure that hell also wake up

    around that time during the weekend.

    T i m in g i s ev er y t h in g

    From the beginning, Ive told you about the importance of predicting when

    your puppy will need to eliminate and Ive provided you with a blank

    schedule to help you with this task.

    Maybe you are asking yourself: why is it so important that I write down my

    puppys elimination habits? Because timing is everything! Some dogs will

    defecate 5 minutes after eating, others 10, 15, 30 minutes later.

    In order for you to know when your puppy will need to defecate, you first

    have to keep a log of his habits. Lets say for example that you have

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