partial band bra
TRANSCRIPT
Making a partial
band bra
Sigrid
Blog: www.sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com
8-12-2008
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Introduction This tutorial is based on my own experience with sewing lingerie. It’s not a copy of
the work of someone else or a translation.
The order of construction for such a bra I found out by taking apart a RTW bra and
by trying. So this is not an official method, but the result of the trials and errors of an
enthousiastic hobby-seamstress who also likes to write a tutorial. For me sewing
lingerie is an addictive hobby, I'm not a professional in the sewing field, but if you
have any questions on construction, please feel free to ask me. My e-mail address
As to questions on fit and adapting patterns, I don't feel qualified to answer those. I
have sewn a lot of lingerie, but mostly for myself and my daughter and no
experience at all in fitting of others.
Though this is not an official publication, I would like to ask to respect copyright
and only use this tutorial for personal use. Of course I can’t control this in any way,
but I do ask not to copy my work for other than personal use. And please do not
publish the content on the internet. A link to the file is always fine, but please do
not copy my text.
What is the difference: full band bra/partial band bra? With a full band bra, the elastic at the bottom is going from center back round
your body, also under the cups and the center part. The channel wire band is
sewed to the cups folded outwards.
A partial band bra has no elastic under the cups or the center part of the bra. The
wire band is sewn to the cups and folded towards the cups.
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What pattern ? For my own partial band bra’s I used the pattern for a full band bra. This is a made
to measure pattern that I use over and over again. Below you see the adaptations
to the pattern, under the assumption that channel wire band is 1cm wide. Seam
allowances are not part of these drawings.
Space is added to the cup, because the cup needs the extra width of the channel
wire band because it’s folded to the inside of the cup instead of to the outside
when making a full band bra.
The space added to the cups, must be subtracted from the center part. With me
the center part is already small, and not much is left of it at the top. Of course this
depends very much on the pattern you’re using.
Important: the total length of the cup that where the wire chanelling is added, is
ideally 0,75-1 cm longer than the length of the wire chanelling, as this gives a bit
more space to get a smooth curving cup at the bottom.
Sewing I cut all my lingerie patterns with a seam allowance of 1 cm, except for the upper
cup, which is usually cut on the scallop of the lace. I advise not to use 1,5 cm (5/8
inch) seam allowances, as this is more difficult to work with because of all the
curves on the pattern parts.
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In the description below not all steps are described in detail. Some techniques I’ve
written about in another file: “Making a full band bra”. This you can find on
http://www.box.net/shared/43oevmk8zv.
Stitch narrow elastic on the scallop of
the upper cup.
Use a not too wide zigzag stitch, and
make sure that the elastic is 10% shorter
than the length of the upper cup
(without seam allowances).
Do this with non-elastic lace too. It will
make sure that the cup will lay close to
the breast and not stand off.
Stitch upper and under cup together
with a straight stitch. Stitch length must
be a little below what you usually do for
a straight stitch.
When the lace is very sheer, I fold the
seam allowance in the direction of the
under cup and only topstitch the under
cup. The blindseam foot is ideal to do
this very accurate.
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The inside of the cup
Calculate the length of elastic needed
for the bottom of the side/back panel.
This is 10-20% shorter than the lycra and
a matter of personal preference and
the stretch of the elastic.
Take the measurements of the pattern
and do not add the seam allowances in
the length!
Often I cut more than a centimeter
extra length at the beginning and end
and mark the start and end on the
elastic with a washable marker (on light
fabrics) or with pins (dark fabrics).
Stitch with a small zigzag on the right
side of the side/back panels. The picot
edge is on the upper side and will be
folded back in the next step.
(My elastic for this bra was wider than
1 cm, thus it's not aligned with the lycra).
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Trim the seam allowance close to the
zigzag stitch (but of course not through
it).
Fold the elastic, and topstitch with a
wide, triple zigzag.
If your machine doesn't have this stitch,
use a normal zigzag to topstitch.
Make the center part that goes
between the cups. It's important that
this part does not stretch. I use tule or
chameuse for this.
The shape of this part can be different:
with or without curve, only a strip of
fabric at top and bottom etc. As long as
it doesn't stretch!
If you want you could add a front
closure here before attaching the cups.
Stitch the side panels and center part to
the cups. Stitch close to the edge, this is
more basting than a permanent stitch.
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This is no centimeter, it's only a few
millimeter
Now the wire channelling is pinned to
the side of the cup. Wrong side of the
wire channel at the right side of the
cup.
Make sure you mark the exact length of
the wire channel, this will ensure that
both cups are the same (and not one
with more space for the wires).
IMPORTANT: do not stretch the lycra of
the cup at the bottom of the curve. If
you do the cup will be too straight and
not go smoothly over your breast (how I
know?).
Stitch the wire channelling as close as
possible to the cups. Be aware that it
has to be topstitched later and the wire
has to go through.
I prefer sewing from center front to the
side. Then stop sewing about 2cm
before the end at the side, as the elastic
at the top still has to be added.
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Stitch elastic at the upper side in the
same way as the on the bottom part.
Pin the wire channeling to the wrong
side of the cup. Topstitch close to the
edge and to the other side of the wire
channeling.
Once again: make sure the wire can go
through afterwards.
Topstitched once
After second topstitching
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Cut the shoulderstrap in two parts.
Stitch each shoulderstrap to the
side/back panel (not cutting yet). Make
sure the back is exactly as wide as your
hook/eye closure.
Attach the ring at the top of the back.
Now you cut off the remaining
shoulderstrap.
Stitch the remaining shoulderstrap to the
slider.
Take the shoulderstrap through the ring
from back to front of the fabric and put
it through the slider.
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Stitch the shoulderstrap to the cup
(mine was a partially split shoulderstrap)
A little decoration, just as you like.
The same on center front
The bra is finished!