Partial Band Bra

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<ul><li><p>Making a partial </p><p>band bra </p><p> Sigrid </p><p>Blog: www.sigridsewingprojects.blogspot.com </p><p>8-12-2008 </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>2 </p><p>Introduction This tutorial is based on my own experience with sewing lingerie. Its not a copy of </p><p>the work of someone else or a translation. </p><p>The order of construction for such a bra I found out by taking apart a RTW bra and </p><p>by trying. So this is not an official method, but the result of the trials and errors of an </p><p>enthousiastic hobby-seamstress who also likes to write a tutorial. For me sewing </p><p>lingerie is an addictive hobby, I'm not a professional in the sewing field, but if you </p><p>have any questions on construction, please feel free to ask me. My e-mail address </p><p>is isedl@yahoo.com. </p><p>As to questions on fit and adapting patterns, I don't feel qualified to answer those. I </p><p>have sewn a lot of lingerie, but mostly for myself and my daughter and no </p><p>experience at all in fitting of others. </p><p>Though this is not an official publication, I would like to ask to respect copyright </p><p>and only use this tutorial for personal use. Of course I cant control this in any way, </p><p>but I do ask not to copy my work for other than personal use. And please do not </p><p>publish the content on the internet. A link to the file is always fine, but please do </p><p>not copy my text. </p><p>What is the difference: full band bra/partial band bra? With a full band bra, the elastic at the bottom is going from center back round </p><p>your body, also under the cups and the center part. The channel wire band is </p><p>sewed to the cups folded outwards. </p><p>A partial band bra has no elastic under the cups or the center part of the bra. The </p><p>wire band is sewn to the cups and folded towards the cups. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>3 </p><p>What pattern ? For my own partial band bras I used the pattern for a full band bra. This is a made </p><p>to measure pattern that I use over and over again. Below you see the adaptations </p><p>to the pattern, under the assumption that channel wire band is 1cm wide. Seam </p><p>allowances are not part of these drawings. </p><p>Space is added to the cup, because the cup needs the extra width of the channel </p><p>wire band because its folded to the inside of the cup instead of to the outside </p><p>when making a full band bra. </p><p>The space added to the cups, must be subtracted from the center part. With me </p><p>the center part is already small, and not much is left of it at the top. Of course this </p><p>depends very much on the pattern youre using. </p><p>Important: the total length of the cup that where the wire chanelling is added, is </p><p>ideally 0,75-1 cm longer than the length of the wire chanelling, as this gives a bit </p><p>more space to get a smooth curving cup at the bottom. </p><p>Sewing I cut all my lingerie patterns with a seam allowance of 1 cm, except for the upper </p><p>cup, which is usually cut on the scallop of the lace. I advise not to use 1,5 cm (5/8 </p><p>inch) seam allowances, as this is more difficult to work with because of all the </p><p>curves on the pattern parts. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>4 </p><p>In the description below not all steps are described in detail. Some techniques Ive </p><p>written about in another file: Making a full band bra. This you can find on </p><p>http://www.box.net/shared/43oevmk8zv. </p><p>Stitch narrow elastic on the scallop of </p><p>the upper cup. </p><p>Use a not too wide zigzag stitch, and </p><p>make sure that the elastic is 10% shorter </p><p>than the length of the upper cup </p><p>(without seam allowances). </p><p>Do this with non-elastic lace too. It will </p><p>make sure that the cup will lay close to </p><p>the breast and not stand off. </p><p>Stitch upper and under cup together </p><p>with a straight stitch. Stitch length must </p><p>be a little below what you usually do for </p><p>a straight stitch. </p><p>When the lace is very sheer, I fold the </p><p>seam allowance in the direction of the </p><p>under cup and only topstitch the under </p><p>cup. The blindseam foot is ideal to do </p><p>this very accurate. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>5 </p><p>The inside of the cup </p><p>Calculate the length of elastic needed </p><p>for the bottom of the side/back panel. </p><p>This is 10-20% shorter than the lycra and </p><p>a matter of personal preference and </p><p>the stretch of the elastic. </p><p>Take the measurements of the pattern </p><p>and do not add the seam allowances in </p><p>the length! </p><p>Often I cut more than a centimeter </p><p>extra length at the beginning and end </p><p>and mark the start and end on the </p><p>elastic with a washable marker (on light </p><p>fabrics) or with pins (dark fabrics). </p><p>Stitch with a small zigzag on the right </p><p>side of the side/back panels. The picot </p><p>edge is on the upper side and will be </p><p>folded back in the next step. </p><p>(My elastic for this bra was wider than </p><p>1 cm, thus it's not aligned with the lycra). </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>6 </p><p>Trim the seam allowance close to the </p><p>zigzag stitch (but of course not through </p><p>it). </p><p>Fold the elastic, and topstitch with a </p><p>wide, triple zigzag. </p><p>If your machine doesn't have this stitch, </p><p>use a normal zigzag to topstitch. </p><p>Make the center part that goes </p><p>between the cups. It's important that </p><p>this part does not stretch. I use tule or </p><p>chameuse for this. </p><p>The shape of this part can be different: </p><p>with or without curve, only a strip of </p><p>fabric at top and bottom etc. As long as </p><p>it doesn't stretch! </p><p>If you want you could add a front </p><p>closure here before attaching the cups. </p><p>Stitch the side panels and center part to </p><p>the cups. Stitch close to the edge, this is </p><p>more basting than a permanent stitch. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>7 </p><p>This is no centimeter, it's only a few </p><p>millimeter </p><p>Now the wire channelling is pinned to </p><p>the side of the cup. Wrong side of the </p><p>wire channel at the right side of the </p><p>cup. </p><p>Make sure you mark the exact length of </p><p>the wire channel, this will ensure that </p><p>both cups are the same (and not one </p><p>with more space for the wires). </p><p>IMPORTANT: do not stretch the lycra of </p><p>the cup at the bottom of the curve. If </p><p>you do the cup will be too straight and </p><p>not go smoothly over your breast (how I </p><p>know?). </p><p>Stitch the wire channelling as close as </p><p>possible to the cups. Be aware that it </p><p>has to be topstitched later and the wire </p><p>has to go through. </p><p>I prefer sewing from center front to the </p><p>side. Then stop sewing about 2cm </p><p>before the end at the side, as the elastic </p><p>at the top still has to be added. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>8 </p><p>Stitch elastic at the upper side in the </p><p>same way as the on the bottom part. </p><p>Pin the wire channeling to the wrong </p><p>side of the cup. Topstitch close to the </p><p>edge and to the other side of the wire </p><p>channeling. </p><p>Once again: make sure the wire can go </p><p>through afterwards. </p><p>Topstitched once </p><p>After second topstitching </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>9 </p><p>Cut the shoulderstrap in two parts. </p><p>Stitch each shoulderstrap to the </p><p>side/back panel (not cutting yet). Make </p><p>sure the back is exactly as wide as your </p><p>hook/eye closure. </p><p>Attach the ring at the top of the back. </p><p>Now you cut off the remaining </p><p>shoulderstrap. </p><p>Stitch the remaining shoulderstrap to the </p><p>slider. </p><p>Take the shoulderstrap through the ring </p><p>from back to front of the fabric and put </p><p>it through the slider. </p></li><li><p> S</p><p>igri</p><p>d </p><p> on</p><p>ly fo</p><p>r p</p><p>ers</p><p>on</p><p>al u</p><p>se </p><p>10 </p><p>Stitch the shoulderstrap to the cup </p><p>(mine was a partially split shoulderstrap) </p><p>A little decoration, just as you like. </p><p>The same on center front </p><p> The bra is finished! </p></li></ul>