EXTERIOR PAINTING RESTORATION

Robert Dufort, ContractorMAGIC BRUSH, INC.

San Francisco

PART TWO

EXTERIOR PAINTING RESTORATION

PART TWO of THREEIncludes another Definition,

EPOXY Consolidating and Filling, and the Continuation of the CURE.

EXTERIOR PAINTING RESTORATION

PART TWO

This being a continuation of what was begun in PART ONE.

If you are interested in a more detailed explanation of the products, techniques, and procedures shown in these presentations, you may wish to also view the complementary (and complimentary) “White Paper” (aka “Abstract”) entitled (take a wild guess) “Exterior Painting Restoration”. It is available at :

www.slideshare.net/rdufort/exterior-painting-restoration-how-to-article

Finally, for those of you who like to see even more photos, you are welcome to visit our Flickr photo heaven, particularly the photo set entitled (take a guess) :

www.flickr.com/photos/magicbrushinc/sets/72157626367625417/

A Tale to Tell – every picture tells a story. You just have to read it.

A Tale to Tell #1 Read the Signs

A Tale to Tell #2 Strip it Down

A Tale to Tell #3 Check it out

A Tale to Tell #4 The Usual Suspects

A Word to the Wise: Bondo Bad

(It’s inflexible and designed for metal, not wood….)

We refer to this as “dry-rot”

Usually is not fungi related – we use the term “generically”.

Generally non-structural (if structural, probably is fungi related).

Prevalent around old rusted nails and heavily exposed, weathered surfaces. (Windows sills, for example.)

Deteriorated Putty/Patches often “signal” the presence of decay.

Punky, decayed Wood incapable of being successfully patched “as is”.

How do you treat this condition?

We refer to this as “dry-rot”

“Dry-Rot” Treatments

“Dry-Rot” TreatmentPhase One

• Prepare Surface – remove deteriorated paint.

• Remove rusted nails, as possible, and resecure.

• Dig out loose, “punky” wood. What comes out easily with a scraper is usually sufficient.

“Dry-Rot” TreatmentPhase Two

• Drill 1/4” holes around all effected areas (but don’t drill completely through the piece of wood).

• Inject Epoxy Consolidant with Turkey Baster (or approved equivalent- e.g. plastic mustard and ketchup bottles).

• Saturate and Repeat.

“Dry-Rot” TreatmentPhase Two

• Drill 1/4” holes around all effected areas (but don’t drill completely through the piece of wood).

• Inject Epoxy Consolidant with Turkey Baster (or approved equivalent- e.g. plastic mustard and ketchup bottles).

• Saturate and Repeat.

What’s an Epoxy Consolidant?

Consolidants have many uses

Consolidants have many uses

Two component Epoxy Consolidants are absorbed through the endgrain of wood, saturating the looser deteriorated wood and then “consolidating” those fibers into the surrounding sound wood. Only then is it possible to effect meaningful repairs.

Wood, of course:

Consolidants have many uses

Plaster as well:

Epoxy Consolidants infiltrate the loose plaster, often deteriorated due to water damage, and solidify into a solid, repairable, surface.

Many plaster elements can be successfully salvaged using these techniques.

Consolidants have many uses

Even Gutters:

The gutters on many older California buildings are made from redwood, and are usually poorly sealed (if at all).

Once cleaned, they can be treated with the epoxy consolidants and then painted. Thus maintained, they will continue to last a very long time.

Consolidants have many uses

In addition to being used to consolidate repair areas, the lower viscosity (watery) consolidants can be used as the initial sealer coat for all stripped wood. Some are highly viscous (thick) and are not as suitable for this use. The consolidant is absorbed into the wood (with virtually no film build) and insures the successful adhesion of paint primers that follow. (FYI - We highly recommend using acrylics for primer and finish coats.)

We also use the consolidant to seal our epoxy fillers prior to priming. (In fact, it is excellent for sealing most patching materials. Highly recommended.)

“Dry-Rot” TreatmentPhase Three

• After consolidating, patch voids with an Epoxy Filler designed to be used with wood. Sand smooth after curing.

• The final step is to seal the filler with another coat of the consolidant.

• NOTE: many fillers are not designed for exterior wood application – generally, they are too “hard” and do not retain the flexibility to move with the substrate as it expands and contracts with the weather.

Fun with Epoxy!

ISSUES:

- Restore vs. Replace

- Permanent?

- Compare Epoxy to Other Fillers

Repair, Rebuild, Restore, Reward

• Wood must have some structural integrity (Totally rotted pieces should be replaced.)

• Epoxy filler is applied with putty knife or whatever tool works best for the given situation. Generally avoid “skimming out” in very thin layers.

• Can use lacquer thinner to “smooth” surface prior to curing. (Will still require sanding in most cases.)

• “Chopsticks” are good for pushing filler into drill holes. Really.

Interesting Epoxy Filler Facts

• Working Life of about 30 minutes.

• Mix 1:1 (most epoxy fillers).

• Thorough mixing (kneading) necessary.

• Can be sanded, shaped and drilled. This allows one to re-create profiles of damaged moldings and ornamental elements that would otherwise be expensive to replicate.

• Curing generates heat which in turn accelerates curing. Since larger masses generate more heat than smaller, it follows that large patches will cure faster than small patches!

More Interesting Epoxy Facts

• Superb bonding to consolidated wood.

• Seal with Consolidant prior to Priming.

• Not Recommended in Seams and Joints unless part of a large void.

• Larger Holes can be Partly Filled with Wood (less expensive, too).

• Near Permanent Repair.

• Other Fillers are “No Comparison” – we have inspected epoxy patches that are over 20 years old and are still holding up wonderfully.

(Save the bondo for your trucks, please...)

More Interesting Facts To Come…

Now that the basics of Epoxy Consolidating and Filling have been mastered covered, it would seem that one is finally ready to undertake the “painting” portion of a “Painting Restoration”.

Sorry, not so fast. There are a couple more components yet to be assimilated.

Please continue on to PART THREE…

PAINTING RESTORATION

Magic Brush, Inc

Interiors, Exteriors, Wood Refinishing

• EPA – RRP “Lead Safe Company”• Winner of 8 National PDCA Awards• Numerous Published Projects

Since 1976

415 641-8622

License #452293

www.magicbrush.net

magic@magicbrush.net

San Francisco, California

Robert DufortFounder, Contractor

• Certified EPA – RRP Renovator• Certified California Lead Inspector• Certified California Lead Supervisor• Member Painting and Decorating

Contractors of America (PDCA)• Member of Artistic License Guild

Speaker at National Conventions for the PDCA and National Trust for Historic Preservation. Plus local gigs.

Published articles in “Fine Homebuilding Magazine” and others.