pairing wine & cheese italian style
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Pairing Wine & Cheese Here are a few basic guidelines: Salty with Sweet The salty flavor of blue cheeses, and even some washed rind cheeses, balances out the sweetness of dessert wines, and vice versa. Try Stilton with Port or Epoisses with Sauternes...TRANSCRIPT
Pairing Wine
with Cheese Starring Italy
Vino e Formaggio Italiano "Wine and Cheese - Italian"
What is Cheese Anyway?
Cheese is a rather general term describing curdled milk (or cream). To curdle
milk means to separate the whey from the curds. Milk proteins (casein) are os-
tensibly broken in half. One half precipitates out of the milk, becoming a solid
(the curds). The other half remains liquid (the whey), though it ceases to be
white. The distinction between true cheese and things like cream cheese, sour
cream, mascarpone, creme fraiche, etc. is the way in which the milk is curdled.
Milk can be curdled either by acid and/or by rennet. To be considered a true
cheese (e.g. cheddar, swiss, brie, et. al.), acid AND rennet coagulation (i.e. cur-
dling) is required.
First, a culture is added to the milk (or is already present in the milk in the case
of some raw milk cheeses). This culture "ferments" the milk, slowly lowering the
pH (raising the acidity) of the milk. Then, rennet is added - this is an enzyme de-
rived from the fourth stomach chamber of an unweaned ruminant animal (e.g. a
calf, kid, or lamb). This enzyme literally breaks apart the proteins in the milk, an
action facilitated by the presence of acid (and heat), and separates the milk into
curds and whey. The whey is poured off (either to make ricotta, or to feed to
hogs). The curds are then cut, releasing more whey, drained, and molded (this is
a gross simplification - most of the textural variations in cheese stem from this
process). At this point, the curds have become cheese.
False cheeses like creme fraiche, mascarpone, sour cream, etc. are curdled very
lightly and without the use of rennet. The acid required can be produced by
natural or added bacteria, vinegar, lemon juice, etc. The variations in the acid-
curdled "cheeses" come from the extent of acidification, coagulation, variations
in fat content, types of cultures, etc. For example, creme fraiche is cream (thus,
high in fat) that is lightly coagulated (lower acidity). Sour cream is cream that is
more heavily coagulated. This slight difference in acidity and cultures will cause
sour cream to fully curdle (i.e. turn chunky) when boiled, whereas creme fraiche
will not.
Pairing Wine & Cheese
Here are a few basic guidelines:
Salty with Sweet
The salty flavor of blue cheeses, and even some washed rind cheeses, bal-
ances out the sweetness of dessert wines, and vice versa. Try Stilton with Port
or Epoisses with Sauternes.
Regional
Try pairing cheese and wine produced in the same region. Manchego or
Zamarano with Albariño wine, and Beecher's Flagship Reserve Cheddar with a
Washington state Syrah are examples of regional pairings that work well.
Hard with Tannic
Harder types of cheese such as cheddar or Parmesan can handle more tannic
wines. Although certain tannicy wines pair well with creamier cheeses such as
Brie.
Acidity with Acidity
Repeat after me: Goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc. You will not be disap-
pointed. Why? The acidity in goat cheese gives it a tangy zip that matches
perfectly with the crisp acidity of Sauvignon Blancs. Try French Selles-sur-Cher
with Sancerre.
Rich and Creamy with Bubbles
If the only reason for this pairing is complete decadence, so be it. Champagne
or any sparkling wine paired with a rich, creamy cheese is one of life's great
pleasures. Try it with the Cowgirl Creamery's Mt. Tam or a wedge of rich,
dense Gruyere.
The pairing of cheese and wine is undoubtedly one of life’s greatest pleasures.
Yet, cheese can enhance or ruin a good wine in a heartbeat, and vice versa.
Today, we will focus on REGIONAL with Italy!
Italian cheeses are made mainly from cows milk, but a few are also
made from sheep milk, goats milk and the famous mozzarella cheese is
made from buffalo milk.
The most famous cheeses are produced and marketed under the Pro-
tected Designation of Origin (PDO) system which defines the area
where the cheese is produced and the methods of production used.
The list below shows how most Italian regions have several cheeses. A
few are produced in two or more adjoining regions, for example Cacio-
cavallo Silano is produced in several southern Italian regions.
Aosta Valley Fontina, Valle d’Aosta
Fromadzo
Basilicata Caciocavallo Silano, Pe-
corino di Filiano
Calabria Caciocavallo Silano
Campamia Mozzarella di Bufala Cam-
pana, Caciocavallo Silano, Provo-
lone del Monaco
Emilia-Romagna Formaggio di Fossa
di Sogliano, Grana Padano, Par-
migiano-Reggiano, Provolone Val-
padana
Friuli-Venezia Giulia Montasio
Lazio Mozzarella di Bufala Campana,
Pecorino Romano, Ricotta Ro-
mana
Lombardy Bitto, Formaggella del Lu-
inese, Formai de Mut from Alta
Valle Brembana, Gorgonzola,
Grana Padano, Parmigiano-
Reggiano, Provolone Valpadana,
Quartirolo Lombardo, Taleggio,
Valtellina Casera
Marche Casciotta d'Urbino, Formaggio di Fossa
di Sogliano
Molise Caciocavallo Silano,
Piedmont Bra, Castelmagno, Gorgonzola, Grana
Padano, Murazzano, Raschera, Robiola di
Roccaverano, Taleggio , Toma Piemontese
Puglia Caciocavallo Silano, Canestrato Pugliese
Sardinia Fiore Sardo, Pecorino
Romano,Pecorino Sardo
Sicily Pecorino Siciliano, Piacentinu Ennese , Ra-
gusano, Vastedda della valle del Belìce
Trentino-Alto Aldige Asiago, Grana Padano,
Provolone Valpadana, Spressa delle Giudi-
carie, Stelvio or Stilfser
Tuscany Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Toscano
Veneto Asiago, Casatella Trevigiana, Grana Padano,
Monte Veronese, Piave, Provolone Valpadana,
Taleggio
TODAY’S PAIRINGS
Emotivo Prosecco paired with Asiago Cheese
This sparkling wine is aromatic and fresh with lemon pear and apple flavors. Lively and crisp on the palate with a dry and re-
freshing finish. Asiago (ah-zee-AH-goh) is a cow's milk cheese first made in the northern Veneto region of Italy. It’s crafted in two flavor
and texture profiles. One is Pressato, the fresh Asiago. The other is the big flavored aged Asiago, Asiago d'Allevo. The
fresher version will be a light straw color; with a semi-soft texture plus it will taste mild and a bit sweet. As this cheese
ages, it becomes a darker color and delivers a sharper and nuttier sensation. The texture also becomes harder so you can
grate it on or in your favorite dish. Asiago is a pleasing substitute for Parmesan.
Maretima Pinot Grigio paired with Santa Teresa
The bouquet has scents of sage, lemon verbena, green apple with hints of tropical fruit (banana, and pineapple). The palate is
savory, fresh, medium-bodied with a pleasant acidity. Ideal for aperitifs, pairs well also with vegetables soups, fish and goat
cheese.
Santa Theresa is a young, mild Pecorino Sardo Dolce cheese from Italy that s treasured for its delicate flavor. It s only
aged 30-40 days, so you can taste the gentle hints of green grasses and herbs that the sheep pastured on, along with
lemony aromas and subtle hints of thyme. Smooth, creamy texture and sweet flavor make this a great choice for anti-
pasto, baked pasta dishes and on salads. Milk: Sheep. Origin: Italy.
Emotivo Rosso paired with Taleggio
Deep ruby red with violet highlights. The bouquet is slightly spicy and fruity with hints of tobacco, blackberries, blueberries and
mulberries. Ripe fruity flavors of cherries and plums with rounded tannins.
Taleggio is produced from curds of cow milk, pasteurized or not, which are cut into small pieces and then transferred to 8
inch square molds. They are then washed with brine and transferred to aging rooms, or in the case of the most traditional
producers, caves where air from the original ripening caves circulates. The brining process continues weekly during the
35-40 day aging process and the beneficial mold that develops is continually scraped and pressed back into the cheese
causing it to develop an edible thin, pink-gold colored rind with small dark mold spots. Taleggio, like most washed-rind
cheeses, has a mild, fruity flavor but an extremely pungent aroma, redolent with mushrooms, yeast and earth. It is most
frequently eaten on its own, although it’s creamy texture permits blending into the risotto and polenta dishes of the re-
gion.
Maretima Nero d'Avola paired with Ubriaco del Piave PO-SI
This wine has an intense perfume, with hints of violet, clove, small well-matured red and black fruits with notes of black pepper.
Pairs with grilled, roasted and braised meats.
Ubriaco means drunk or drunken in Italian. It can also be spelled Umbriaco. This cheese originates from ancient times in
the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy when Olive Oil was scarce and expensive. Grape pomace and wine was plentiful
after harvest and was substituted to preserve cheese.
Ubriaco is a hard cheese made from cow's milk, which is soaked in wine and covered with the crushed grape skins (grape
pomace – the remains from pressing) for a period of time (days/weeks). The cheese is then allowed to further mature for
six to ten months. It results in a cheese with a pale yellow-gold color, with a dark purple to light violet rind (depending on
the grapes and age) and firm, slightly crumbly texture and some tiny holes.
Maretima Chianti paired with Fontina val D’Aosta and Fulvi Geniune Pecorino Romano
Bright ruby red in color. On the nose it presents notes of red and black berry fruit. The palate is round and soft with a pleasant
freshness, slightly tannic.
Pecorino Toscano cheese (Tuscan pecorino) is a hard ewe’s milk cheese produced in Tuscany, and is made with full cream
and pasteurized ewe's milk.
Fontina is the symbol of agriculture in Italy's tiny, French speaking Aosta Valley region. The cows that produce the milk for
Fontina Val d'Aosta graze on high-altitude Alpine pastures dotted with wildflowers and native herbs. Fontina is a great
cooking cheese, as it melts evenly without losing any flavor. Extremely aromatic (some might say "stinky"), Fontina is best
noted for its value as a savory and fruity table cheese, its slightly grassy flavor embodies the taste of a true raw milk
cheese. Made from unpasteurized cow's milk, aged 90 days.
Ca del Monte Valpolicella paired with Gorgonzola
Ruby red, with garnet notes. The bouquet is slightly spicy, floral and fruity, with hints of iris, violet, almond and berries. The pal-
ate is silky, warm and elegant, with oak notes in the end.
Gorgonzola is one of the world’s oldest blue-veined cheeses. The Cheese is mainly produced in the northern Italian re-
gions of Piedmont and Lombardy, Gorgonzola. Unskimmed cow’s milk is used while preparing the cheese. Generally it
takes three to four months to attain full ripeness.
This cheese has crumbly and soft texture with nutty aroma. It can have a mild to sharp taste depending on its age. Gor-
gonzola Dolce (also called Sweet Gorgonzola) and Gorgonzola Piccante (also called Gorgonzola Naturale, Gorgonzola
Montagna, or Mountain Gorgonzola) are its two varieties, which vary in their age.
This mini publication is brought to you
by The Wine Cellars, Inc.
Written and Edited by Reneé Rowe Copyright ©2013 Renee’ Rowe.
All rights reserved.