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1. IntroductionNanotechnology is the science concerned with the studyof the phenomena and functions of matters within thedimensional range of 0.1-100 nm.

A nanometer, abbreviated as nm, is a unit for lengththat measures one billionth of a meter. (1 nm= 10-3?m = 10-6 mm = 10-7 cm = 10-9 m) [1, 2]. Unusualand unique properties of nanoscale materials arise fromtheir exhibited profile compared to macromaterials.Novel properties exhibited by these materials instigatefrom their minute dimensions which converted intounusual mechanical, thermal, biological, optical, mag-netic, and electrical properties [3].

Nano materials is currently under investigation in dif-ferent fields such as self assembly and thin films,quantum dots, nanofibers, nanorods, nanotubes,nanowires, nanocrystals and nanofoams [4].

Nanofiber technology incorporated in different appli-cations area such as batteries and fuel cells, capaci-tors, transistors and diodes, systems for energy trans-fer, composites for aerospace structures, drug deliveryand tissue engineering.

2. Definition of nanofibersIn definition of nanofiber, the term can split into twoparts, namely "nano" and "fiber". The textile industrydefines fibers as a filament, natural or synthetic ascotton or nylon, capable of being spun into yarn. A"fiber" is defined from a geometrical standpoint as aslender, elongated, threadlike object or structure [5].The term "nano" is technically referred to the scale ofa billionth of the unit. Generally, nanofiber is a termused for fibers with a diameter between 50 and 300nanometers [6].

3. Manufacturing techniques of nanofibersThere are a number of techniques capable of fabricat-ing nanofibers. These techniques include bicomponentextrusion, phase separation, template synthesis, draw-ing, meltblowing, electrospinning and centrifugal spin-ning.

3.1. Bicomponent extrusion (Island- in- the-sea)Bicomponent fibers can be defined as extruding twopolymers together in the same fiber from the samespinneret [7]. Some examples of bicomponent fibersinclude sheath-core, eccentric, islands-in-the-sea andsegmented pie fibers, as shown in Figure 1 [8]. Is-lands-in-the-sea form fibers are also called matrix-fila-ment fibers because in cross section, they appear asone polymer is inserted into a matrix of a secondpolymer. Islands-in-the-sea fibers may have a uniformor nonuniform diameter of the island portion.

Technology of Nano-Fibers: Production Techniques andProperties - Critical Review

Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally1*, M. El-Sakhawy2, M. H. Elshakankery1 & M. H. Kasem1

1Textile Engineering Department, National Research Centre.2Cellulose and Paper Department, National Research Centre.

AbstractDifferent methods can be used for nanofibers fabrication such as bicomponent extrusion, template synthesis,self assembly, phase separation, meltblowing, drawing, electrospinning and centrifugal spinning. Thesefibers have numerous applications such as reinforcement fibers in composites, protective clothing, filtration,biomedical devices, electrical and optical applications, and nanosensors. This review paper sheds light uponproduction techniques of nanofibers, their physical properties and production parameters affecting theseproperties. Since electrospinning is still the most well known and widely used method for producingnanofibers, the effect of its parameters on nanofiber properties were also reviewed extensively.

KeywordsNano-fibers, electrospinning, centrifugal spinning, fabrication, bicomponent fibers, meltblown technology,fiber properties

*All correspondence should be addressed to,Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally,Textile Engineering Department, National Research Centre,33 Bohouth St. Dokki. Giza. Egypt.Email: : saaa_2510@yahoo.com & saaa2510@gmail.com

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Figure 3.1 Cross-sections of bicomponent fibers [8]

Essentially, these filaments are spun from the blend oftwo polymers in the required ratio; where one polymeris suspended as drops in the second's melt. Fast cool-ing of the fiber beneath the spinneret holes is an im-portant feature in fibers production. The differences inspinnability between the two polymers would almosthinder the spinnability of its blend, with the exceptionat lower mixtures concentration (#20%). One of thefiber components can be removed by the use of heat,a solvent or a chemical; or using mechanical devices[7, 9].

In bicomponent extrusion two polymers are deliveredto a simple spinneret hole, split by a blade edge orseptum, which feeds the two segments into side byside arrangements [8, 9].

The pipe in pipe method is one of most used methodsto manufacture bicomponent fibers where one of thestreams constituent envelopes the other stream compo-nent at the end of the tube. Nakata et al. [10] preparedcontinuous PET nanofibers with a 39 nm diameter bysea-island-type from the flow-drawn fiber with furtherdrawing and exclusion of the sea component.

3.2. Phase SeparationIn phase separation, a polymer is initially blended witha solvent before suffering gelation. The major mecha-nism in this system is the separation of phases owingto physical inconsistency. The solvent phase is thenextracted, leaving the other residual phase. A detailedmethod for poly(L-lactic) acid (PLLA) nanofibrousproducing has been explained by Ma and Zhang [11]in a five main steps, polymer dissolution, gelation,solvent extraction, freezing and freeze-drying.

3.3. Template SynthesisTemplate synthesis is another commonly used approachmostly to produce inorganic nanofibers e.g. carbonnanotubes and nanofibers [12] or conductivepolyaniline (PANI) [13], polypyrrole (PPy) [14] etc.Template synthesis involves the use of a template ormold to get a preferred material or structure. Thus thecasting technique and DNA replication can be believedas template-based synthesis. For the instance ofnanofiber creation by Feng et al. [15], the templatementions to a metal oxide membrane with nano-scalediameter thickness pores. By the use of water pressurealong with the porous membrane control causes ex-trusion of the polymer which, by contacting with asolidifying solution, provides a nanofibers whose di-ameters are managed by the pores.

3.4. DrawingThe drawing process can be characterized as dry spin-ning at a molecular level. The process can only beapplied to viscoelastic materials that can experience ahigh degree of deformations, but remaining sufficientlysolid to hold up the developed stress during pulling. Atypical drawing method requires a SiO

2 surface; a

micropipette and a micromanipulator to producenanofibers. However, this process produced nanofibersin a laboratory-scale one by one which prevents itfrom being scaled up to industrial level [16].

A micropipette with a few micrometer diameters wasdipped into the droplet near the contact line via amicromanipulator. The micropipette was then removedfrom the liquor at a speed around 1 x 10-4 ms-1 to pulla nanofiber. The pulled fiber was dumped on the sur-face by touching it with the micropipette end. Thenanofiber drawing was frequently repeated on everydroplet. The material viscosity at the edge of the drop-let increased with evaporation. So, drawing a fiberinvolves a viscoelastic material which able to undergostrong deformations even as being adequate cohesiveto maintain the developed stress during pulling [17].

3.5. Meltblown technologyMeltblown technology involves a single step produc-tion of fibers by a polymer melt extruding through anorifice die and drawing down the extrudate with a hotair, usually at similar temperature as the molten poly-mer. The air exerts the drag force to attenuate the meltextrudate into fibers, which are then gathered in theform of a nonwoven mat. This technique provides theutilization of thermoplastic polymers in a fairly eco-nomic spinning process Figure 2 [18].

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Figure 3.2 Detailed schematic ofmeltblowing process [18]

3.6 ElectrospinningElectrospinning is a famous procedure for the electro-static production of polymer nanofibers [19, 20].Formhals published the first patent for preparing arti-ficial threads by electrospinning in 1934 [21].Electrospinning is a smart method to attain nanofibersas it is simple to use and it produces non-woven matswith a wonderful volume/area ratio.

In the electrospinning technique, a jet of polymer so-lution is ejected from the tip of a droplet under elec-trostatic forces action [22-25]. The produced nanofibersusually form a nonwoven mat. Individual nanofiberfragment of lengths up to several centimeters can bearranged and collected [26]. The polymer solutionswere located in a plastic syringe tip of inner diameter0.6 mm. A pendant droplet of polymer solution wascontinued at the syringe tip [27].

Figure 3.3 Schematic of Electrospinning Setup [22]

The jet issued downs from the tip of the pendant dropof polymer solution and was attracted to the sharpframe of a collector disk revolving around a horizontalaxis. The frame is placed at a distance of 200 mmbelow the droplet. The aluminum disk of 200 mmdiameter had a pointed frame with a 26.60 half-angle,to create a stronger converging electrostatic field.Therefore an electric potential variation around (15-

40) KV was formed between the liquid drop surfaceand the rotating disk collector. A basic electrospinningapparatus is shown in Figure 3.

3.7. Centrifugal spinningElectrospinning is definitely the preferred method fornanofibers fabrication; nevertheless it faces some draw-backs for instance high electric field necessities, solu-tions with superior dielectric properties, low produc-tion rate, high production cost and many other safetycorrelated topics, electrospinning could not be suitablefor mass production of certain materials [28-31].

Centrifugal spinning, or Forcespinning, is a recentlydeveloped nanofiber forming method and it drawsextensive interest mainly due to its high productionrate, which is 500 times faster than traditionalelectrospinning [32]. Rather than using electrostaticforce, centrifugal spinning develops centrifugal forceto realize the high-rate production of nanofibers [33].Centrifugal spinning can be used to fabricate nanofibersby using polymer solutions or polymer melts, withoutthe dielectric constant restrictions and the involvementof high voltage electric field. Besides, carbon, ceramicand metal fibers can also be fabricated by centrifugalspinning [34-35].

It is meaningful to note that the centrifugal spinningprocess was initially developed in 1924 by Hooper toproduce artificial silk fiber from viscose by applyingcentrifugal forces to a viscous material [36]. There-fore, this method has been used for fiber productionsince it was established by Hooper.

The fiber formation process of centrifugal spinningrelies upon the competition between centrifugal forceand Laplace force (arise from surface curvature) [37].During centrifugal spinning, the nanofiber formationprocess can be divided into three stages: (i) jet-initia-tion to force the polymer solution stream through theorifice, (ii) jet-extension to enhance surface area ofthe forced polymer stream, and (iii) solvent evapora-tion to harden and shrink the polymer jet Figure 4[38].

Texttreasure

Knowledge is nothing but finding unity in themidst of diversity

- Swami Vivekananda

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Figure 3.4 Schematic drawing ofcentrifugal spinning system [38]

In the initial step, combinations of centrifugal andhydrostatic pressure at the capillary end exceeds theflow-resistant capillary forces and force the liquidpolymer through the nozzle capillary as a jet [39]. Theexternal radial centrifugal force stretch the polymer jetas it is anticipated toward the collector wall, but thejet moves in a warped curve owing to rotation-depen-dent inertia. Stretching of the extruded polymer jet issignificant in jet diameter reduction over the distancefrom the nozzle to the collector. At the same time thesolvent in the polymer solution evaporate, solidify andcontract the jet. The solvent evaporation rate dependson its stability. For highly volatile solvent the jets formthicker fiber as the fast evaporating potentiates fastsolidification which hinders the jet extension [40]. Withrespect to centrifugal spinning, parameters that impactthe spinning process and the structure of the resultantnanofibers include spinneret angular velocity, orificeradius, polymer viscoelasticity, solution surface ten-sion, solvent evaporation rate, temperature and thenozzle-collector distance [41].

4. Factors affecting electrospinning processThere are numerous parameters that can affect theconversion of polymer solutions into nanofibers dur-ing electrospinning. These parameters include (a) gov-erning variables for instance applied voltage at thespinneret, the tip-to-ground distance, the hydrostaticpressure in the capillary tube, (b) surrounding condi-tion for instance solution air flow, temperature, andhumidity in the electrospinning chamber, and (c) thesolution (spinning dope) properties such as viscosity,conductivity, surface tension and elasticity [42].Spinnability of various polymers has been widely in-

vestigated. Fong et al. found that electrospinning ofPEO solutions (using the co-solvents of water andethanol) that have viscosities between 1-20 poises anda surface tension in the range of 35-55 dynes/cm wasfiber-formable [43]. However, cellulose acetateelectrospinning in acetone/DMAc (2:1), viscositiesrange 1.2-10.2 poises, were fiber-formable [44]. Thesetwo cases show that the spinnable set of conditions fordifferent polymer solutions is unique. In the followingsections, the processing parameters of theelectrospinning process are discussed in greater detail.

4.1. Spinning solution concentration and viscosityViscosity is one of the most important parameters thatinfluence the fiber diameter is the spinning dope.Higher viscosities produce a larger fiber diameter [42,43 and 45]. It is to be noted that the spinning dopeviscosity is directly comparative to the polymer con-centration. Thus, an increase in polymer concentrationwill also mean an increase in fiber diameter consistentwith a power law relationship [46]. Demir et al. afterthat confirmed that the fiber diameter was compara-tive to the cube of the polymer concentration [47].Fong et al. prove that the fiber morphology was influ-enced by the polymer concentration, thus by the vis-cosity as well. It was observed that many beads format low viscosity, resulting in a "beads-on-the-strings"morphology. At high viscosity, beadless fibers wereobtained [43]. Figure 4.1 shows that the average diam-eter of polyurethane fibers is proportional to the cubeof the polymer concentration

Figure 4.1 Average fiber diameter of polyurethanefibers is proportional to the cube

of the polymer concentration

4.2. Applied voltageApplied voltage is another parameter that affects thefiber diameter. Generally, a higher applied voltage leadsto a higher volume of spinning dope ejection, resultingin a larger fiber diameter. The jet diameter increaseswith increasing applied voltage [47]. Figure 4.2 shows

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that the jet diameter increases with increasing appliedvoltage.

Figure 4.2 Jet diameter as a function of appliedvoltage

4.3. Spinning solution temperature

Uniformity of the fiber diameter is also a challengeposed by the electrospinning process. Demir et al.reported that polyurethane fiber diameters were moreuniform when electrospinning was conducted at a hightemperature (700C) compared to room temperature. Itwas also noted that the spinnability of the fibers in-creased with increasing spinning dope temperature. Atroom temperature the highest polymer concentrationthat could be electrospun was 12.8 wt% (weight per-cent), whereas a 21.2 wt% polyurethane polymer so-lution could be electrospun at a high temperature of700C [47]. Clearly, the spinnability of the polymer so-lution increases with decreasing viscosity of the solu-tion

4.4. Surface tensionIt was observed by Doshi and Reneker that beadlessfibers could be obtained by reducing the surface ten-sion of a polymer solution [42]. However, this gener-alization is not always true, as shown by Liu and Hsiehin their work producing cellulose fibers byelectrospinning of cellulose acetate usingdimethylacetamide (DMAc) and acetone as the sol-vents. Acetone has a surface tension of 23.7 dyne/cm,whereas DMAc has a surface tension of 32.4 dyne/cm.When using either DMAc or acetone alone as thesolvent, beads or beaded fibers were obtained. Whena co-solvent of DMAc and acetone was used, the sur-face tension ranging between 23.7 and 32.4 dyne/cm,beadless fibers were observed [44].

4.5. Electrical conductivityThe addition of salts into a polymer solution can resultin fewer beads and finer fibers. It is clarifying thatwith the salts addition, a higher charge density on the

jet surface was attained, bringing additional electricalcharge to the jet. An increase in the jet charge leads tohigher elongation forces on the jet under the electricfield, resulting in fewer beads and finer fibers. Zong etal. reported that, as the salt content in a polymer so-lution increased, fewer beads and finer fibers wereobserved [48]. Lee et al. also found that using a sol-vent with a higher electrical conductivity would resultin polycaprolactone (PCL) fibers with smaller diam-eters [49].

4.6 Molecular weight of polymerAs molecular weight (MW) is proportional to thepolymer chain length, a high MW implies a high de-gree of polymer chain entanglement. The Berry num-ber, an indication of the degree of polymer chain en-tanglement, is a product of the intrinsic viscosity andpolymer concentration. A high Berry number indicatesa high degree of polymer chain entanglement.

The Berry number has been found to correlate posi-tively with the fiber morphology and diameter, imply-ing that a higher MW would result in a larger fiberdiameter and fewer beads. Koski et al. reported thatPVA fiber diameter increases with MW and Berrynumber. At low MW and Berry number (<9), the beadedmorphology and circular cross-section are evident. Athigh MW and Berry number (>9), flat fibers with largediameters were obtained [50]. The relation betweenfiber morphology with different molecular weights waspresented in figure7.

Figure 4.3 PVA fiber morphology of 25 wt% polymerconcentration with a molecular weight

of 9000-50 000 g/mol.

4.7 Spinning distanceThe further the distance between the spinneret and thegrounded metal screen, the finer the fiber diameterwill be, as the fibers have more time and distance toelongate themselves in the instable zone.

Doshi and Reneker [42] verified that the jet diameterdecreases with increasing the distance from the apexof the Taylor cone, suggesting that the fiber diameterwould decrease with increasing distance from the spin-

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neret.4.8 Spinning angleMany spinning angles have been previously studied,with 0o, 45o and 90o being the most common. Thereis little experimental evidence that spinning angle af-fects fiber diameter. However, uniformity of theelectrospun fibers increased at 45o because the flowrate was often lower and gravity did not allow forformation of as many beads [51].

4.9 Orifice diameterThe smaller the orifice diameter, the smaller the fiberstend to be. Katti et al. demonstrated that a smallerorifice diameter results in PLAGA nanofibers withsmaller diameter [52].

4.10 Solvent boiling pointA low boiling point is a preferred feature inelectrospinning process because it allows the solventevaporation under usual atmospheric conditions. Thisproperty supports the polymer fibers deposition in anessentially dry state [53]. However, a solvent with anexceedingly low boiling point leads to frequent clog-ging of the spinneret, due to quick evaporation of thesolvent.

Wannatong et al. reported that polystyrene fiber diam-eter decreases with increasing solvent boiling point[54].

4.11 HumidityKim et al. found that the average polystyrene fiberdiameter increases with increasing relative humidityin the air contained by the electrospinning chamber[55]. The higher relative humidity composes a thickerfiber because the higher electrostatic charge densityon the fiber surface is capable to split the fibers more.High humidity affects the evaporation rate of solventin the jet. When a fiber reaches the receiver, somesolvent remains inside, which subsequently evaporatesand leaves the fiber a porous structure. Duringelectrospun of poly(L-lactide-co-D, llactide) (PLDLA)Jeun et al. reported that with rising humidity the num-ber of pores on the fiber surface increases, it alsoinfluence the pore diameter and the pore size distribu-tion [56].

4.12 Dielectric constantThe dielectric constant is a material property that de-scribes a material's ability to store charge when usedas a capacitor dielectric. An increase in the dielectricconstant means an increase in the charge storage ca-

pacity of the material. Methylene chloride (MC) has adielectric constant of 9.1, whereas the dielectric con-stant of dimethyl formamide (DMF) is 36.7. By in-creasing the composition of DMF in the solvent, thedielectric constant of the solvent increases as a result.The fiber diameter of polycaprolactone (PCL) wasfound to decrease as the solvent's dielectric constantincreases [49].

4.13. Feeding rateZong et al. reported that a lower solution feeding speedyielded lesser fibers with spindle-like beads. At a higherfeeding rate, larger fibers and beads were observed.Since the droplet suspended at the spinneret tip is largerwith a higher feeding rate, the jet carries the fluidaway at a higher velocity. As a result, the electrospunfibers are harder to dry before they reach the groundedtarget. Consequently, a higher feeding rate results inlarge beads and junctions in the final membrane mor-phology [48]. Figure 4.4 shows the SEM images offibers at a feeding rate of 20 ml/min and 75 ml/min,where (a) shows smaller beads and finer fibers and (b)shows bigger beads and larger fibers

Figure 4.4 SEM images showing the variation ofbeaded fibers at different feeding rates: (a) 20 ml/min

and (b) 75 ml/min.

5. Properties of electrospun nanofibers5.1- Nanofiber morphologyNanofibers formed by electrospinning have gainedmuch research concern owing to their morphologicalcharacteristics. These fibers have high surface areas,small pore sizes and could be produced in three di-mensional forms. By adjusting the process parameters,the above mentioned characteristics can be adapted tosuit specific applications and needs [57].

5.2 Physical properties of electrospun nanofibersElectrospun nanofibers have exceptional propertieswhich add values to the product functionality. Theseproperties comprise high surface area, small fiber di-ameter, low basis weight, filtration properties, feasi-bility to incorporate active chemistry, layer thinness

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and high permeability [58].It was reported that a little percent of nanofibers onthe meltblown fabrics surface greatly decreases watercontact angle and improves liquid retention [59].Nanofibers are characterized by high axial strengthbeside extreme flexibility. The nanofiber assembliesacquire exceptional structural mechanical propertiesas a result of its excessive open porosity together withsignificant specific surface area [60].

The meltblown microfiber and the electrospunnanofiber webs have comparable strength properties,but both were lower compared with other nonwovenfabrics. Some applications such as protective garmentsrequire higher strength electrospun webs, but theirlower strength is acceptable for some purposes such asfilter media in which electrospun web can be sup-ported with other fabrics by lamination to acquirehigher strength [61].

Electrospun filter media characterized by the largesurface area and small pore size coupled with theirfine fibers [62, 63]. The possibility of using electrospunpolyurethane, due to its elasticity, for protective gar-ments has been investigated, however its strength isabout half that of polyurethane cast film [64].Meltblown and electrospun nylon fabrics have beentreatrd by one atmosphere Uniform Glow DischargePlasma (OAUGDP) [64]. It was found that fabricsexposure to OAUGDP for 10 seconds increase surfaceenergy and wetability very much in all cases.Electrospun nanofiber webs have a number of smartproperty as a good strength per unit area, very softhand and high surface energy which indicates a possi-bility of good moisture vapour transmission rate [64].

6. ConclusionDue to their small diameter and high surface area,nanofibers have shown a great promise in engineeringand biomedical applications. In this review paper,definition, production techniques, and properties ofnanofibers were illustrated in details. Nanofibers couldbe fabricated using different methods for instancebicomponent extrusion, self assembly, template syn-thesis, phase separation, meltblowing, drawing,electrospinning and centrifugal spinning. These pro-duction techniques were explained in detail. As theelectrospinning is still the most widely used method ofproducing nanofiber, their parameters affecting fiberproperties were extensively reviewed. The criticalparameter of electrospinning were concentration andviscosity of spinning solution, applied voltage, surface

tension, electrical conductivity, molecular weight ofthe polymer, spinning distance and angle, orifice di-ameter, feeding rate and relative humidity. These pa-rameters were found to have a huge significant influ-ence on nanofiber properties and morphology.

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1. IntroductionTextiles are always valued for their colours, shades,prints etc. Though in the past this value addition ofcoloration to textiles was done by effective use ofvarious natural resources, it declined rapidly after theinvention of synthetic dyes in mid 19th century. Syn-thetic dyes soon became popular because of their readyavailability, ease of application, wide range of shadesand better color fastness. However, during the last fewdecades, the use of synthetic dyes is gradually reced-ing due to an increased environmental awareness andharmful effects, of either toxic degraded products ortheir non biodegradable nature [1].

Today's consumer too is much aware about strict en-vironmental regulations worldwide, interested in buy-ing more and more eco-friendly products. Thereforetextile industry has many challenges in meetingconsumer's demand for providing 'EnvironmentallyImproved Textile Products (EITP).' Such products havea growing demand for export market too.

Natural dyes are the dyes or colourants derived fromplants and minerals. The majority of natural dyes arevegetable dyes from plant sources such as roots, ber-ries, bark, leaves and wood, other organic sources suchas fungi and lichens. It is estimated that, in India thereare some 500 varieties of plants that can yield naturalcolors [2]. Natural dyes are non-toxic, organic in na-ture, obtained from renewable resources, non allergic,no health hazards, biodegradable, therefore eco-friendly.Some of them act as health care products.Since agesmany naturally occurring dye plants were regarded topossess 'magical properties' with the power to heal,example indigo blue is believed to be giving coolingsensation and turmeric is considered a powerful anti-septic [3,4]. Thus natural dyes are recovering their lostimportance apart from giving safe colouration prop-erty; some of them have proven to be giving func-tional properties too, such as anti-microbial, healingand UV protection etc.

Indigo is one of the oldest natural substances used fortextile dyeing and printing. It is an organic compoundwith a distinctive blue color. Economical as well asecofriendly Indigo can be applied to fibres such ascotton, silk wool etc. with no requirement of mordant.Unlike many other natural dyes that require a hightemperature, indigo works at low temperatures. It works

Development of Compound Shades of Indigo andMarigold using Natural Mordants on Cotton

and Cotton/Viscose Blend

Prof M. D. Teli1* & Mrs. Pradnya Ambre2

1Professor, Department of Fiber and Textile Processing Technology, ICT2Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design,

Dr. B. M. N. College of Home Science &Ph.D. Student of S.N.D.T. Women's University.

AbstractConsumers today are becoming more and more aware about the environmental issues related to the use ofsynthetic colourants and on other hand natural dyes are reviving their way rapidly by giving safe colourationproperty. As environmentally improved textile products have a great demand in the global market, there isa wide scope for the use of natural colourants for colouration of textiles. Both natural dyes and naturalmordants are studied by many researchers but very fewer studies have been reported on mixed or compoundshades of natural dyes. Therefore in the present study attempt has been made to develop compound shadesby using Natural Indigo and Marigold on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose woven fabric bypremordantingtechnique.

Key wordMarigold, indigo, compound shades, natural mordants

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Prof M. D. TeliProfessor,Department of Fiber and Textile Processing Technology,Institute of Chemical Technology, MumbaiEmail: mdt9pub@gmail.com

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so quickly that you can get blue fabric after just 10minutes in the indigo vat.[5]

Fig 1.Indican

Fig.2 Lutein (Carotenoid)

Marigold or Calendula officinalis is a plant in the genusCalendula of the family Asteraceae. Marigold is widelycultivated and can be grown easily in sunny locationsin most kinds of soils. [6] The main colour givingcomponents present in marigold are flavonoids andcarotenoid. Lutein (carotenoid) is the constituent usedas a yellow colour pigment for dyeing of fabrics.Marigold is also been proved to be giving antimicro-bial property. [7, 8,]

Mixing of two or more dyes for achieving variousshades with synthetic dyes is a common practice; butthe studies of natural dyes for obtaining compound ormixed shades are still scarce. Among few such studiesreported , Indigo dyed wool fabric over dyed withmarigold which gave beautiful shades of green andwide range of shade gamut was obtained when cottonand silk fabrics were dyed by mixing cutch and heenausing harda as mordant [9, 10].

As the sustainable solutions for the textiles processingare urgently needed, the studies that provide a con-crete data on compound shades of natural dyes usingnatural mordants along with their fastness propertieswould help to satisfy consumers' demand for environ-mentally improved textile products. Therefore in thisstudy effort is done to develop compound shades byusing Natural Indigo on 100% cotton and cotton/vis-cose woven fabric and then top dyed with Marigoldusing premordanting technique.

2. Materials and Methods2.1 Materials2.1.1 Natural dyes usedNatural Indigo in powdered form was sourced fromK.M.A. Exports, Tamilnadu, India.

Marigold flowers were collected from household andtemple worship as waste, dried in shade, grinded andused for extraction.

Table 1. Natural dyes and mordants used for the studyNatural Mordant

AmlaEmblicaOfficinails

HardaTerminaliaChebula

AnarPunicaGranatumL.

Natural DyesNeel/ Indigo - IndigoferaTinctoriaMarigold- TagetesErecta

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2.1.2 Natural mordants usedNatural mordants such as Amla, Harda and Pomegran-ate Rind were sourced by ShitalAyurvedic, Mumbai,were used for the study.

2.1.3 Substrates100% cotton woven fabric of 126 GSM and cotton/viscose blend woven fabric of 108 GSM was purchasedfrom local market, Mumbai, India and used for thestudy.

2.2 Methods2.2.1Extraction of marigold5% stock was prepared by boiling 5 grams of driedmarigold flowers in 100 ml of water for 1 hour byreflux method; extract was filtered, centrifuged andmade to original volume and used for dyeing.

2.2.2 Extraction of natural mordant (Amla, Harda andPomegranate Rind)5% stock was prepared by boiling 5 grams of mordantpowder in 100 ml of water for 1 hour by reflux method;extract was filtered, centrifuged and made to originalvolume and used for mordanting.

2.2.3 Preparation of Indigo DyeIndigo is a dark blue crystalline powder and is notreadily soluble in water. Dye is soluble in an alkalinevatsolution. Blank vat solution is prepared by using20gpl of 40% NaOH and 10gpl hydrose at 500C.Required amount of Indigo dye is pasted using TurkeyRed Oil and the volume is made to 100ml by addingblank vat solution to the paste which becomes green incolour. This solution is filtered and used for dyeing.

2.2.4 Dyeing ProcessStep I - Dyeing of Indigo : Thecotton and cotton/viscose fabrics were dipped in the blank vat solutionfor 10 min and then were taken out and squeezed. Theindigodyeing solution was prepared for different shades1%, 2% and 4% (to be used for over dyeing withmarigold). The fabric was dipped inthe indigo solu-tion for 10 min at room temperature. Thesoluble in-digo thus dyes the fiber. Fabrics were then removedfrom the dye bath and were exposed to oxygen.Onoxidation,it was observed that the colourof the fabricchanges from greenish yellow to blue. Fabrics werethen neutralizedwith acetic acid and then washed withsoapsolution for 10 min, squeezed anddried (9).

Step 2- Top dyeing with marigold : Indigo dyed cot-ton and cotton/viscose blend fabrics (1%, 2%, and 4%)

weremordanted with natural mordant extracts in Rotadyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari® Labtech, Mumbai)keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30. The fab-rics were introduced into the mordant solution at roomtemperature and slowly the temperature was raised to950C. The mordanting was continued at this tempera-ture for 60 min.

Mordant % used - Amla - 20%, Harda - 15% andPomegranate Rind - 20%

After mordanting, the fabrics were squeezed and dyedusing marigold flowers extract as a dye (30% Shade)for developing compound shades of Indigo topped withMarigold. The mordanted fabrics were introduced intodye bath keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30and dyeing was continued at 950C for 1h. After dye-ing, the fabrics were squeezed and washed with coldwater and dried.

3. Testing and Analysis3.1 Colour value by reflectance method:The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth ofcolor by reflectance method using 10 degree observer.The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured onRayscanSpectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectanceaccessories. The K/S values were determined usingexpression-

(1-R) ²K /S = ----------

2R

Where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K isthe Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef-ficient. Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated interms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) valuesusing the RayscanSpectrascan 5100+. In general, higherthe K/S value, higher is the depth of colour on thefabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100- white,0- black), a* corresponds to the red-green coordinate(positive- red, negative -green) and b* corresponds tothe yellow-blue coordinate (positive -yellow, negative-blue). As a whole, a combination of these entire co-ordinates enables one to understand the tonal varia-tions.

3.2 Wash FastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to washing was carriedout using ISO105 II method (11). The test sampleswere subjected to 5g/l of soap solution for 45 min at500C temperature using liquor to material ratio of 50:1in launderometer. After rinsing and drying, samples

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were evaluated for the change in shade using respec-tive standard rating scales (rating 1-5, where 1 - poor,2- fair, 3 -good, 4 - very good and 5 - excellent).

3.3 Light FastnessTest method AS 2001.4.21.2006 was used for determi-nation of colour fastness to light (12). An artificiallight source (mercury vapour, tungsten filament, inter-nally phosphor-coated lamp) was used for assessmentof light fastness. Assessment was done using blue woolscale (Ratings, 1-8, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3-moder-ate, 4 - good, 5 - better, 6 - very good, 7 - best and 8-excellent)

3.4 Rub FastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to rubbing (dry and wet)was carried out byAATCC 8:2005 Crock-meterMethod, (Crock meter consisting of acircul arrubbingsurface finger measuring 16 mm india meterex ertingadown ward force of 9N when moving back and forthe along astraight line track of 100 mm on the speci-men). Standard rubbing cloth is rubbed against thedyed test specimen with 10 strokes (back and forth) in10seconds (13). Assessment is done by giving the rat-ing for staining as per standard rating scale. (Rating 1-5, where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 - very good and5 - excellent).

4. Results and discussions:100 % cotton and cotton/viscose fabric first dyed withnatural indigo, the K/S values for same are reported inTable 2. The same fabrics were then mordanted with3 natural mordants (amla, hardaandpomegranate rind)and top dyed with 30% shade of marigold to obtaincompound shades, K/S values and the fastness ratingsfor the same are given in Table 2 and 3. The resultsclearly indicate the increase in K/S values as the con-centration of indigo is increased, the depth of blue ishigher as far as single shades of indigo are concerned.

Negative a* and b* values indicate that the shadesobtained are greener and bluer. In the case of cotton/viscose blend fabric, the K/S values werehigher thanthose in cotton. This might be because ofhigher dyeabsorption by the cotton/viscose blend fabric thancotton as viscose has an inherent property of betterabsorption than cotton.

Table 3 and 4 indicate the K/S Values and FastnessData of 100% cotton and cotton/viscose blend fabricsfirst dyed with Indigo and then topped with Marigoldusing various mordants (such as amla, harda and pome-granate rind) to produce compound shades effect. Thecolour value in the case of natural dyes is a combinedcontribution of the effect of mordant and the dye [10].K/S values obtained after the compound effect of In-digo topped with Marigold, when compared mordantwise , it is clear from the data that by premordantingwith amla the K/S values are highest followed by hardaand then pomegranate rind on 100% cotton. Similartrend is observed on even cotton/viscose blend.

Table 2. K/S Values of cotton and cotton/viscose dyedwith Indigo (Single shade)

Indigo on 100% Cotton

% shade K/S L* a* b*

1% 1.2121 61.016 -5.134 -13.807

2% 2.8915 61.488 -5.162 -15.188

4% 4.7162 61.569 -5.487 -15.704

on Cotton/Viscose

K/S L* a* b*

1% 1.6223 61.497 -5.516 -14.082

2% 4.859 62.799 -5.621 -16.848

4% 9.4689 61.178 -5.291 -17.939

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It is also observed that the K/S values are much higherin case of cotton/viscose blend than 100% cotton.It isto be noted that as Indigo base shade increased, keep-ing the marigold top dyeing same, the green colourdeveloped showed decreasing L* values, means shadesbecomingdeeper. Also progressively b* values de-creased indicating lowering of yellowness and increas-ing of blueness. The a* values did not show appre-ciable change. In other words irrespective of mordant,

the above mentioned general trend persisted. As far asthe fastness ratings are concerned, the ratings achievedfor wash fastness were in the range of very good toexcellent(4 to 4-5). Rub fastness ratings were found tobe in the range of fare to excellent(2-3 to 4-5). Andthe light fastness ratings were in the range of good tobest (4 to 6-7). Therefore overall fastness ratingsachieved for representative compound shades sampleswere promising and encouraging.

Table 3. K/S Values and Fastness Data of 100% Cotton dyed with compound shades of Indigo topped withMarigold using various mordants

Mordant % Compound K/S L* a* b* Wash Rub Light Shade Fastness Fastness Fastness

Amla 20% Indigo Marigold Dry Wet

1% 30% 6.1305 54.286 -7.689 17.415 4 4-5 3-4 4

2% 30% 6.997 49.424 -9.17 13.172 4 4 3 5

4% 30% 7.2219 33.345 -6.995 -0.589 4 3-4 2-3 5-6

Harda 15% 1% 30% 3.6705 49.389 -7.966 2.627 4 4-5 4 5

2% 30% 4.0391 47.532 -7.395 1.859 4 4 3-4 5-6

4% 30% 7.805 52.47 -8.399 3.455 4 3-4 3 5-6

Pomegranate 1% 30% 1.3272 58.663 -6.082 3.59 4 4-5 4 5

Rind 20% 2% 30% 1.7952 54.988 -6.584 0.055 4 4-5 4 5

4% 30% 1.9751 44.364 -5.655 -9.014 4 4-5 3-4 4-5

Table 4: K/S Values and Fastness Data of Cotton/Viscose blend dyed with compound shadesof Indigo topped with Marigold using various mordants

Mordant % Compound K/S L* a* b* Wash Rub Light Shade Fastness Fastness Fastness

Amla 20% Indigo Marigold Dry Wet

1% 30% 8.7101 54.176 -10.57 14.717 4 4-5 3-4 6

2% 30% 9.019 43.556 -10.88 5.565 4 4 3 6

4% 30% 10.585 36.635 -10.46 1.994 4-5 3-4 3 6-7

Harda 15% 1% 30% 7.1674 51.1 -9.548 3.017 4 4 3-4 6

2% 30% 7.7516 55.11 -9.982 4.911 4 4 3 6-7

4% 30% 8.2369 43.912 -9.657 -3.311 4 4 3-4 6-7

Pomegranate 1% 30% 2.4322 49.019 -7.656 -6.206 4 4-5 3-4 5

Rind 20% 2% 30% 3.607 64.072 -9.942 6.376 4 4-5 3-4 6

4% 30% 4.2105 51.913 -9.728 -4.511 4-5 4-5 3 6

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However wide range of shades of green were exploredin this study. Shades varying from light green, yellow-ish green to deep green were obtained. Shades achievedon cotton/viscose blend were deeperand darker ascompared to 100% cotton.

5. ConclusionCompound shades of green are obtained on 100%cotton and cotton/viscose woven fabric by first dyeingit with natural indigo, then topped with marigold.Results were encouraging as a wide range of shadegamut was achieved. Though number of earlier studiesreported the use of chemical mordants for dyeing ofnatural dyes, this study is unique in its way as thecompound shades of natural dyes were developed us-ing 3 different natural mordants. Also the fastnessproperties achieved were of good standard. As textileindustry is looking for more and more sustainablesolutions for dyeing techniques, use of natural dyeswith natural mordants is going to be promising in nearfuture.

Table 5. Compound shades obtained bymixing Indigo and Marigold

Mordant % Compound Substrate Shade

Indigo Marigold 100% Cotton/Cotton Viscose

Amla 20% 1 % 30 %

2 % 30 %

4 % 30 %

Harda 15 % 1 % 30 %

2 % 30 %

4 % 30 %

Pomegranate 1 % 30 %

Rind20 % 2 % 30 %

4 % 30 %

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11. Indian Standard, TEXTILES - TESTS FORCOLOUR FASTNESS (2008)

12. Teli, M.D., Annaldewar B.N. &Thorat S.L. (2016).Sun protective dyeing and finishing of cottonfabric with marigold. Asian Dyer, Oct-Nov, 41-44.

13. http://www.texanlab.com/documents/downloads/4.pdf

14. Prabhu, K. H. &Bhute, A. S. (2012). Plant basednatural dyes and mordants: A Review. Journal ofnatural products, plant resources, 2(6), 649-664.Retrieved from www.scholarsresearchlibrary.com

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1 IntroductionReview of literature is a critical and systematic methodto survey and analyse the facts related to the topic ofthe research. Wide range of the Himalayan region isvery rich in producing varieties of plants and trees.Some plants are capable of giving fibres having somefavourable characteristics which offer possibilities tobe used in textiles. Hemp, Nettle, Sisal are very com-mon among them. These fibres have drawn the atten-tion of the researchers to work with. The availableliterature in this area is very much required to be stud-ied for further exploration its possibilities in textiles.The review work also help to find the gap in the in-formation or facts of previously work done which canopen the scope to fill up through systematic and in-depth study of research work undertaken in most sci-entific manner.

Exploration of reading materials to collect informa-tion, facts of the properties and results of various pro-cesses related to the study of a fibre of Himalayanorigin namely Nettle have been carried out. Somepractical observations during field study in the con-cerned areas have also been added further to gatherinformation.

Himalayan FibresHimalayan region in India is a vast range spreadingover ten states of the country namely, Jammu & Kash-mir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim, ArunachalPradesh, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram andTripura as well as the hill regions of two states - Assamand West Bengal. Indian Himalayan Region serves asa chief source of water for a large part of the Indiansubcontinent and accommodates varied flora and fauna.Among these varied livings some plants and animalare capable of giving fibres which may have suitabil-ity in properties to be converted into textile productslike yarn and fabric. Some important fibres like Sisaland Ramie available in this region are already regis-tered of having some use in textile whereas Nettleanother natural vegetable fibre might have found someapplication in textiles. Himalayan wool another fibrefrom animal origin available from Uttarakhand is alsocapable to generate interest among researchers to workwith.

Nettle Fibre: Availability and CharacteristicsHimalayan Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia), a perennialplant, grows in moderate and sub-tropical Himalayanregion at a height of 1200 to 2900 meters above sealevel [1]. Nettle, locally known as bicchu buti growsin the wild as undergrowth particularly in Almora andChamoli districts in Uttarakhand, India. It is unculti-vated and largely found growing naturally in the nearbyforests as well as in the outskirts of villages in

Himalayan Nettle Fibre and its Possibilities in Textiles:A Review

Sambaditya Raj1*, Dr. Himadri Ghosh2 & Dr. Prabir Kumar Choudhuri3

1Assistant Professor, Banasthali Institute of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith,2Professor & Dean, Banasthali Institute of Design, Banasthali Vidyapith,

3Assistant Professor, Textile Section, Silpa-Sadana, Visva Bharati (A Central University).

AbstractNettle (Girardinia diversifolia), locally known as bicchu buti, grows wildly in the higher altitude of theHimalayan region, especially in Chamoli and Almora districts of Uttarakhand state attaining a height of upto 18 feet. Historically, as long as thousand years back, Nettle fibre was reported to be woven into fabric.Being superior to jute and useful for mixing with wool there are possibilities to spin them into yarns. Inthis paper, an attempt has been taken to critically review the various initiatives and experiments conductedby researchers to understand the possibilities to develop yarn and subsequently into fabrics from Himalayannettle fibre for production in the textile industry leading to the economic development of these areas.

Keywordsblending, composite, fibre, nettle, tensile

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Sambaditya Raj,Assistant Professor, Banasthali Institute of Design,Banasthali Vidyapith, Rajasthan.Email: sambaditya.bid@banasthali.in

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Uttarakhand. Himalayan Nettle belonging to the grassspecie is found mostly in the higher altitude ofHimalayas. This plant can attain a height of up to 12to 18 feet [1].

In Europe, people have been using wild Nettle plantsto obtain fibre already since the 12th century [2],particularly when there was economic or political cri-sis. Mostly domestic handcraft textiles were producedfrom these fibres. The first attempt to commercialisethe production of Nettle fibres was in Germany at thebeginning of the 18th century, but serious research inthe cultivation was started in the 19th century, but itwas not very successful. Only from 1927 to 1950 verysuccessful research had been conducted with this plantand its output. People with their indigenous knowl-edge of extracting fibre from Nettle plant used to weavefabrics out of Himalayan Nettle fibres for their usepast two thousand years back [3]. Various parts of thenettle fibre plant can be used as food, fodder and asraw material for different purposes in cosmetics, medi-cine, industry and biodynamic agriculture. Organicallyproduced fibres are in demand by the green textileindustry and show potential that is economically prom-ising [2]

Nettle Plant (Girardinia diversifolia) [2]

Extracted Nettle fibre [4, 5, 6,7]

Ilze Baltina et al. [8] have commented that the Nettleplat can be grown for 10 - 15 years in one place with-out much care which has further been confirmed byC.R. Vogl and A. Hartl [2]. They have also deter-mined that the obtained yield of fibre is less than thatof Flax and Hemp. Experimental results have shownthat the bast content in Nettle straws is approximately20%. Average fibre strength is similar to that of Flaxand Hemp fibre - 33-58 cN/tex. It has been also deter-mined that older plants are capable of giving moreyields of fibres having higher strength.

The most remarkable information available so far aboutthe fibre is, it is ecologically benign and it has naturalresistance to diseases & pests. Unlike cotton it re-quires no pesticide and not much water to harvest andbeing perennial it requires minimum care and protec-tion. In the historical days, the fibre plant was widelyused for making bow strings, fishing nets and lines,sail clothes and even textiles in many cultures. It isconsidered as superior to jute and useful for mixingwith wool [1]. Himalayan Nettle possesses specialinherent characteristics which makes it very differentfrom other fibres as follows:a) It has hollow core useful in creating fabrics with

thermal properties, both warm and cool [1].b) It is reputedly antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire

retardant.c) It has great resistance to wrinkle.Extraction of fibres is made by almost the same con-ventional procedures as followed for other bast fibreslike Jute i.e. retting in water. Only difference is thatthe bark from the Nettle plant is laid in Sunlight for 3- 5 days. The dried bark is put under water in a pondfor about 10 days. When it is ready to clean, it isrinsed with clean water. According to C.R. Vogl andA. Hartl [2], a Nettle plant give good fibre yield for 4years, more fibres are available from upper stem partthan in the lower part. Fibres in the upper part arefiner and longer too [9]. Average fibre length being 43to 58 mm & the diameters varies from 19 to 50 µm [9,10].

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Nettle fibres lie along the length of the stem under thesurface of outer bark like Flax and Hemp. Bacci L etal. [9] have shown that the main chemical compositionof Nettle fibre is Cellulose 79 - 83.5%, hemicellulose7.2 - 12.5% and lignin 3.5 - 4.4%. They also observedthat mean tensile strength of Nettle fibre varies from24 to 62 cN/tex but elongation is slightly higher than2%, the density of the fibre being almost half of thatof Cotton i.e. 0.72 g/cc.

In the survey conducted by Gurung et al. [11] explainsthe thorough use of Himalayan giant Nettle (Girardiniadiversifolia (Link) Friis) or stinging Nettle in themountainous region of Nepal. The Gurungs of Sikles,Nepal, practice traditional methods in harvesting, pro-cessing, spinning and weaving Nettle, locally knownas allo or puwa. The study emphasized on the effortsfocusing on commercialization of Nettle in order topreserve their traditional knowledge and culture. BacciL. et al. [12] discussed about the various methods usedto extract Nettle fibre from plants, the study alsoemphasized on the effects of these methods on Nettlefibre quality. Applying mechanical scratching on thestalks stored for more than a year resulted in gooddegree of separation of fibres from sieves due to itsnatural retting processes taking place during storage.Vogl C. R. and Hartl A. [2] have discussed on the longhistory of the cultivation of perennial stinging Nettlein Europe during the 19th century and how EuropeanResearch Institutions have cloned varieties of fibres inthe early 20th century. They have also discussed howeach part of the Nettle plant could be used as food,fodder and as raw material for different purposes. Asorganically produced fibres are in demand by the greentextile industry, it has showed its potential in the eco-nomic development. The researchers came into a con-clusion that though there is no commercial productionof Nettle fibre there have been plans to introduce Nettlein the textile market in countries like Germany, Aus-tria and Finland. They have suggested various waysand means to increase cultivation and processing oforganic Nettle. It was recommended to develop culti-vation methods for Nettle fibre and also emphasize onthe cooperation between farmers and processing units.Also, a thorough review was required on economicfactors of cultivation and processing.

Nettle Fibre: Application in TextilesSett S. K. et al. [13] in their article, "Studies of Nettle(Girardinia diversifolia) fibre blended Yarns" high-lighted their experimentation on Himalayan Nettle forexploring the possibilities of spinning textile grade yarn.

On testing, physical properties of Nettle fibre, theresearchers were successful in finding their suitabilityfor spinning. Being the initial attempt, the fibres wereopened from the available reeds and processed throughmodified Cotton spinning (miniature) system with andwithout blends. The study also focuses on how variousyarns were spun using the same experimented tech-nique. These experiments resulted in identifying theproperties of suitability of yarn for extensive range oftextile products. As this was claimed to be the firstattempt of spinning Nettle yarn through total mechani-cal processing, no comparison could be made with anyother yarn.

Huang G. [14] in his article "Nettle (UrticacannabinaL) fibre, properties and spinning practice" discussedthe investigate on he conducted on Nettle fibre to studyits length, fineness, tensile strength and moisture ab-sorption ability. The experiment resulted that whencompared to Wool, Cotton and several other bast fi-bres, the moisture absorption ability of Nettle fibre(Urticacannabina L) is higher due to its special fibrestructure (20 to 70 mm in length, with fineness rang-ing from 15 to 40 ?m). The study also revealed thatthis fibre could replace some widely used natural tex-tile fibres. But due to its smooth surface and straightform, the fibre may be successfully spun when blendedwith other suitable fibres rather than using it in itspure form.

In Europe, attention has been devoted to the methodsof acquiring Nettle fibres for technical textiles. Theauthors in their study "Nettle Fibers as a PotentialNatural Raw Material for Textile in Latvia" discussedon how several new Nettle plant clones are being cre-ated. As wild Nettle commonly grows in Latvia, em-phasis was given on how to increase the cultivation ofwild Nettle for converting them into fibres for furtheruse. The study also revealed that though the obtainedyield of Nettle is less than Flax and Hemp, the averagefibre strength is similar to that of Flax and Hemp fibre- 33-58 cN/tex.

The investigation of researchers, Davies G. C. andBruce D. M. [15] detailed on the effect of environ-mental relative humidity on the tensile properties oftwo natural fibres: Nettle and Flax. Both the plantscontain cellulosic fibre bundles in the outer layer witheach bundle comprising of many cellulosic cells bondedtogether. The researchers had experimented the staticand dynamic tensile moduli and strength of individualfibre cells under varying environmental conditions.

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During their early experiments, it was observed thattensile modulus is dependent on environmental rela-tive humidity but there was significant effect of fiberdamage. On taking into account the effect of damage,study resulted in a consistent relationship betweenmodulus and relative humidity.

The Uttarakhand Bamboo & Fibre Development Board[16] has highlighted the usage of Himalayan Nettlefibre for clothing by the local people thousand yearsback. As it has lost its popularity the Board has beentaking necessary initiatives to promote the usage ofwildly grown but eco-friendly fibre; Nettle, among thehill people specially Bhotia community of Uttarakhandwho are crafting variety of products out of this fibrein a very efficient manner.

Lepcha S. T. S, Bahti S and Kumar A. [17] explained,with special context to Uttarkhand, the availability oflocal fibrous plants of North West Himalayan region.In their book the researchers highlighted the traditionalmethods in processing of these fibre yielding plants bythe ethnic communities.

Bharadwaj S. and Pant S. [18] in their article "Com-fort properties of acrylic: Nettle fibre blend fabric"have discussed the effect of blending Nettle fibre withAcrylic fibre on comfort properties. In their study,stinging Nettle fibre was blended with Acrylic fibre invarious proportions. Two counts of yarn were preparedthat were further hand-woven in plain weave into fab-ric samples. While examining the air permeability,moisture absorption and thermal insulation of thesesamples, it was observed that increase in Acrylic per-centage in the yarn resulted in decrease in air perme-ability of the fabric. With the increase of Nettle in theblended fabric there was an increase in moisture ab-sorption, while the increase in Nettle fibre proportionthe fabric showed better thermal insulation value. Thus,the study concluded proving higher ratio of Nettle fi-bre in a textile material was more comfortable thanthose containing more Acrylic fibre.

As little literature is available on Nettle reinforcedstandard plastics the researchers Fischer H, WerweinE and Graupner N [19] attempted to produce Nettlereinforced poly (lactic acid) (PLA) with fibre loads of20-40?wt-% in order to assess the technical potential-ity of this material compared to 30?wt-% Nettle /Polypropylene. In their experiment, the tensile strengthcould only be increased in case of 30?wt-% nettle /poly (lactic acid) from 52 of the pure PLA to 59?MPa,

which is far from the real potential of Nettle fibers. Itwas found that the Nettle-reinforced samples hadCharpy impact values <50% of the pure PLA. In gen-eral, the Nettle as reinforcement showed a great poten-tial for PLA. The researchers also suggested, that, ifthe large gap between fiber and matrix strength wasreduced the tensile strength of composites could beincreased for improving fiber matrix interaction.

In the United Kingdom, effort has been made to useNettle in developing a suitable natural fibre by blend-ing it with non-food crop. At the initial stage, an ex-periment was conducted by processing Nettle with Woolfibre at the ratio of 50% Wool and 50% Nettle, 80%Wool and 20% Nettle and finally 75% Wool with 25%Nettle to form a yarn. This yarn was further woveninto fabric. A fabric was developed with a soft feel onsurface and possessing natural fire retardant property.Developing new natural fibre composites is the mainconcern of scientists in today's world. While studyingthe tensile properties of stinging nettle (Urtrica dioica),widely grown in Europe, through single fibre tensiletesting Bodros E. and Baley C. [21] compared withother natural fibres like Flax, Sisal, Ramie etc. Nettleshowed high tensile properties in comparison to otherfibres and was suitable enough to act as reinforcecomponents in composite materials.

ConclusionNettle a natural bast fibre have drawn keen attentionof the researchers. The research papers under studyhave shown that the fibres possess enough potentialityto be converted into yarn in pure or blended with otherfibres. Yarn can further be used for making fabrics.Application of Nettle fibres as reinforcing materials incomposite manufacturing has also been reported. Thisreview work has opened up the scope of further worksthrough scientific, systematic and in-depth study withthis natural, eco-friendly fibre. The study may lead tothe designing and development of various textile prod-ucts which can widen its applicability. People of theNettle producing area may also get benefit through itscultivation and in turn the artisan, craftsmen can earntheir livelihood. This will certainly lead to economicdevelopment of the region.

Reference

1. http://www.ubfdb.org.in/natural-fibers/2. Vogl C.R., Hartl A, 'Production and Processing of

Organically Grown Fiber Nettle (Urtica dioica L.)and Its Potential Use in the Natural Textile Indus-

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try', American Journal of Alternative Agriculture,Volume 18, Number 3, (2003), pp. 119 - 128

3. Nicola di Virgilio, 'Project Report on "Stingingnettle: a neglected species with a high potentialas multi-purpose crop' Ph.D Thesis, NationalResearch Council of Italy - Institute of Biometeo-rology CNR-IBIMET

4. http://www.wildfibres.co.uk/assets/images/autogen/nettle1_10.jpg

5. http://www.tatatrusts.org/upload/images/Weaving-dreams.jpg

6. http://www.ansab.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/allo.jpg

7. https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/original/c1/23/ c123bf0dddfba007.jpg

8. Ilze Baltina, Lilita Lapsa, Zofija Jankauskiene,Elvyra Gruzdeviene, 'Nettle Fibers as a PotentialNatural Raw Material for Textile in Latvia',Material Science, Textile and Clothing Technol-ogy, July, (2012), pp. 23 - 27.

9. Bacci L, Baronti S, Predieri S, Virgilio N. 'Fiberyield and Quality of Fiber Nettle (UrticadioicaL.) cultivated in Italy'. Industrial Crops and Prod-ucts, 29, (2009), pp.480 - 484

10. Frank R, 'Bast and Other Plant Fibers'. Cambridge,GBR: Woodhead Publishing (2005). pp.331

11. Gurung A, Flanigan H, Ghimeray A. K, Karki R,Bista R., & Gurung O. P, 'Traditional knowledgeof processing and use of the Himalayan giantnettle (Girardinia diversifolia (Link) Friis) amongthe Gurungs of Sikles, Nepal', A Journal of Plants,People and Applied Research. Ethnobotany Re-search & Applications, (2012).

12. Bacci L, Di Lonardo S, Albanese L, MastromeiG, & Perito B. 'Effect of different extraction meth-ods on fiber quality of nettle (Urticadioica L.)'.

The Textile Research Journal, December, (2010).13. Sett S. K., Banerjee A., & Mukhopadhaya A.

'Studies of Nettle (Girardinia diversifolia) fibreblended Yarns'. Paper presented at the Interna-tional Conference on Natural Fibres - From Na-ture to Market, Kolkata. (2015).

14. Huang, G, 'Nettle (Urticacannabina L) fibre, prop-erties and spinning practice'. The Journal of TheTextile Institute. (2005). 96:1, 11-15, DOI:10.1533/joti.2004.0023.

15. Davies, G. C., & Bruce, D. M., 'Effect of Envi-ronmental Relative Humidity and Damage on theTensile Properties of Flax and Nettle Fibers'. 68(9). The Textile Research Journal. SAGE Publi-cation.

16. Uttarakhand Bamboo Fiber Development Board,Dehradun, Uttarakhand. www.ubfdb.org.

17. Lepcha S. T. S, Bahti S, & Kumar A. (2009).'Common fiber yielding plants of North WestHimalayas--with special reference to Uttarakhand'.Uttarakhand State Council for Science and Tech-nology Uttarakhand Bamboo and Fiber Develop-ment Board. Dehradun: Rural Technology ActionGroup

18. Bharadwaj, S., & Pant, S. 'Comfort properties ofacrylic: Nettle fibre blend fabric'. Man-MadeTextiles in India. (2015), 43(5). pp. 177 - 179.

19. Fischer H, Werwein E. & Graupner N, 'Nettlefiber (Urticadioica L.) reinforced poly (lacticacid): A first approach'. The Textile ResearchJournal, (2012). SAGE Publication.

20. Bodros E. & Baley C., 'Study of the tensile prop-erties of stinging nettle fibers (Urticadioica)',Mater. Lett, (2008), 62, 2143-2145.

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1. IntroductionWith the development of markets and increased com-petition, there are many fashion producers who wantto sell their products and impose on the world market.Garment producers are forced to be even more initia-tive in the field of innovation and further reduction ofoperating costs. Strategy implementation and movinggarment producers in a desired direction requires aspecial kind of expertise. Formulating a strategy re-quires an entrepreneurial focus and emphasizes theability to conceptualize, analyse and weigh, whereasapplying strategy has a primarily managing focus. Allfashion companies must, regardless of their currentsituation, develop a long-term strategy. There is not asingle strategy that would be optimal for all compa-nies, because each of them must determine a strategyin accordance with its objectives, capabilities, resourcesand market position. [1]

The problem of strategic choice is different and de-pends on the level for which the strategy is developed.The ultimate goal is the formulation of a successfulstrategy and the creation of supply companies which

can meet the needs of consumers more effectively thanthe competition, thus achieving functional and busi-ness goals.

The pace at which everything is changing unables anyprecise predictions in most business activities. There-fore, it is difficult to achieve defined goals and busi-ness strategies, and it is even more difficult to keepthem unchanged for a long period of time. That is whyit can be said that today's environment is turbulent andcharacterized by discontinuity. The only thing whichis certain about it is that nothing is certain. The mar-kets which used to be relatively stable with occasionalfluctuations began to change rapidly. New competitorsand disappearance of the existing ones have become ascene from everyday life. The life cycle of many prod-ucts has decreased suddenly. Consumer tastes havebecome extremely sophisticated, being allowed bymodern technologies to obtain high-quality productsand services very easily at low prices, everywhere inthe world.

In strategic management planning is primary and es-sential phase of management process. Strategic plan-ning is long and complex process in which there is noguarantee that a garment producer will achieve desiredgoals. Strategic planning is a process which includes:perception of market conditions, consumer needs, com-

Importance of Mapping for Development of The FashionCompany Business Strategy

Dr. Gordana ColovicThe College of Textile - Design, Technology and Management

AbstractRapid change of fashion trends, new fabrics and more demanding customers impose the need for flexibleproduction which must be adjusted to all changes of production parameters for various garments. Fashioncompanies are focused on achieving optimal results concerning supplies, preparation, production and dis-tribution of fashion products.Mapping is a tool that helps fashion companies in the process of strategic planning to define existingcondition or the new strategy and strategic goals. In the process of planning strategic development thecompany's goal is to take advantages relating to competing companies through precisely defined strategicgoals turned into strategic and action plans. The focus is on reducing production costs, continual improve-ment of production process, time reduction of technological process, improvement of efficiency and capac-ity utilization. It implies applying new solutions in production, together with applying new informationalsystems, management techniques and modern design (CAD/CAM, Lean thinking, Product Lifecycle Man-agement -PLM).

Key worddevelopment, fashion, mapping, strategy

*All the correspondence should be addressed to,Dr. Gordana Colovic,The College of Textile - Design, Technology and Management,BelgradeEmail: gordanacolovic@gmail.com

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petitive strengths and weaknesses, sociopolitical, legaland economic conditions, technological development,as well as perception of specific options and threatsthe fashion company is faced with. [1]

In addition to the analysis of the general environment,a fashion company must analyze the business environ-ment and internal organization (customers, availableresources and suppliers, competitors, the labor market,their own organization, processes, business culture,managerial attitudes of all employees, from top man-agement to workplaces which demand for a minimumlevel of expertise and knowledge required). Strategymaps can help to overcome this difficult and arduousjourney.

2. Strategy mapsStrategy maps describe the process of transformingimmaterial, intangible assets into material, tangiblefinancial results. They provide a framework for iden-tifying and implementing strategies in a company. [2]Strategy maps provide employees with a clear imageabout the connection between their jobs and the otherones, values which must be increased towards doingtheir job as good as possible, the most important di-rections for increasing the innovativeness and effec-tiveness of employees, processes and activities in thecompany.

The purpose of strategic mapping is to define, throughenvironmental analysis and analyzing the companyitself, priorities and key strategic goals as well as theplan of activities at all company levels, from the topmanagement to operational units.

Strategic mapping and management exists in compa-nies with four key activities [3]:1. Defining strategic objectives - strategic mapping

process results in agreed and accepted concept ofkey assumptions for the future development of acompany.

2. Implementing strategic goals through the BSC(Balanced Scorecard) concept - allows manage-ment throughout the organization, connecting thework of employees with the strategy, vision andmission of the organization.

3. Focusing on key strategic objectives - throughoperational performance of strategic goals the suc-cess of organizational units and individuals ismonitored, along with achieving operational ob-jectives for the current organizational level.

4. Connecting strategic management with support

functions - strategic management connects strate-gic objectives with information technologies,control and the system of rewards.

According to Kaplan and Norton, the standard schemeof strategic map implies that financial perspectivecontains two branches: a strategy to increase the growthin the revenue of a company and the strategy to in-crease productivity. [4] Figure 1 shows a simple stra-tegic map.

Figure 2.1: Simple strategic map

On the basis of the defined tasks, objectives and cri-teria a "cause-consequence chain" is formed, aimingto show the path to improving the performance andprosperity of enterprises (Figure 2.2):

● The perspective of learning and growth determinesthe strategic responsibilities, strategic technolo-gies and corporate climate for performing whichare required to support all processes and activi-ties mentioned above. This perspective definesthree categories necessary to implement thecompany's strategy:

1. strategic competences: skills and knowledge nec-essary to employees so that they are able to sup-port the strategy,

2. strategic technologies: information system (3DCAD, PLM software), databases, methods neces-sary to support the strategy,

3. organizational climate: the cultural changes thatwill provide motivation and training for perform-ing a defined strategy.

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● Internal perspective defines business processes andspecific activities which an organization must in-troduce and implement in order to meet all thevalues for the customer:

◆ innovation processes (development of fashionproducts, the speed of delivering to the market),

◆ processes of managing consumers (developmentof solutions, services, customer relationship man-agement),

◆ operational processes (supply chain management,reduce costs, improve quality, reduce productioncycle time, better capacity management),

◆ processes related to the environment (health,safety, ecology and society).

Figure 2.2: Cause-consequence chain

Objectives Criteria

Reducing production costs Costs per activity in key operational processes

The cost per unit of product

Cost of marketing, sales, distribution, administration

Cost control and laboratory testing of textile materials

Continuous process improvement Number of process with a significant improvements (CAD/CAM systems, CNC sewing machines)

Number of eliminated processes that are not adding value(lean system)

The percentage of waste textile materials

Percentage garment with errors

The total cost of the quality system

Improving the speed of the process Design and production preparation (3D CAD)

Time savings in of the process (CAD/CAM, work study,ergonomic design workplaces)

Efficiency of the process

Application of software (CAD; Product Lifecycle Manage-ment)

Improving the utilization of basic resources The percentage of capacity utilization

The reliability of textile machines

Number of interruptions in production due to breakdowns ofsewing machines

Flexibility (the number of products that can be produced onthe basis of the same capacity)

Improving the efficiency of net working capital The inventory turnover ratio of raw materials and finishedproducts

Turnover coefficient of byers/consumersCash to cash cycle

Table 2.1 shows an example of a strategy map of a fashion company.Table 2.1: Strategy map of fashion company

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● Next customer perspective is the core of the strat-egy. It shows how and in what direction thecompany's growth should be achieved. The mostimportant thing for the customer is: the design ofa fashion product, product quality, delivery time,price and image of the company on the market.The perspective of the customer includes severalcommon criteria of the results obtained as theconsequence of well-formulated and implementedstrategy:

◆ Customer satisfaction;◆ Retention of customers;◆ Gaining customers;◆ Profitability of customers;◆ Market share;◆ Financial share.

● Financial perspective of an enterprise is to createvalues for the owners. Usually a comprehensive,long-term indicator of success is chosen, such asEconomic Value Added (EVA), capital productiv-ity, labor productivity, liquidity, etc.

3. Analysis of strategic mapping for developmentstrategyToday, companies are forced to use a variety of pro-grams of change and create such conditions that vari-ous actions and initiatives are being aimed at achiev-ing long-term strategic goals. Figure 3.1 shows theprocess of strategic management.3.1. Development of a StrategyFor the development of a strategy it is necessary thatthe management of a company should:● Define the mission, vision and values of the com-

pany● Do a strategic analysis: external environment

(political, economic, social, technological, legal);internal environment (human resources, capital,technology, key processes); existing strategy (cur-rent situation and problems).

● Create a strategy: define a market segment inwhich to focus the company's activities; deter-mine the value for consumers; identify key pro-cesses; define the human resources necessary forthe implementation of the strategy; determine thetechnology that will enable the chosen strategy.

3.2. Planning a StrategyThe management plans a strategy by developing stra-tegic planning objectives, criteria, initiatives, budgetswhich control activities and resource allocation. In thisstep, the company:

● Develops a strategic map (basic questions andproblems around which to build a strategy).

● The objectives contained in maps and topics aredevided into the objectives and criteria of BSC.

● Defines strategic initiatives.● Delivers the strategic plan, which predicts how to

finance strategic initiatives in various businessfunctions.

● Creates teams for the implementation of certainstrategic themes.

Figure 3.1: The process of strategic management

3.3. Adjusting the organization to the strategyIn order to adjust the organization to the strategy it isnecessary to pay attention to the following:● The strategy is usually carried out at the level of

business and managers must make strategic mapa cascade (to get it onto lower levels so that thestrategies of higher levels become the objectivesof the lower ones, and so on).

● In addition to business units, there are supportunits in every company, or corporate staff func-tions, so the management needs to ensure theircompliance with the company's strategy.

● The employees are always the ones who carryout the strategy and they need to understand thestrategy and to be motivated to carry it out.

3.4. Planning the OperationsThe strategy is always implemented through dailyoperations, and here it is necessary to determine whichbusiness processes are necessary to improve in orderto implement the strategy. Operational plans which areadjusted to the strategy are: predicting and plans ofsales, plans of resources and the budget of operationaland capital costs.

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3.5. Monitoring and learningMonitoring and controlling require using operationalreview meetings as well as strategy review meetings.

3.6. Testing and adaptation of a strategyManagement must test the validity of assumptions onwhich the company's strategy is based at least once ayear and modify and adapt it to the new reality.

On the basis of the strategic management process anda strategic map, the strategy of a fashion company isformulated. An example is given in Figure 3.2.

Figure 3.2: Formulating a strategy based on thestrategic map

Strategic mapping can be carried out in relation to thecompetition. The strategic group is a group of compa-nies competing in the market. Strategic Group Map-ping is a technique of displaying different market andcompetitive positions of rival companies. It is a toolfor understanding the similarities and differences,strengths and weaknesses, i.e. competitive positions inthe market, thus comparing: price, quality, geographi-cal coverage, product portfolio, distribution channelsand so on. Figure 5 shows the strategic group maps ofretailers of garment.

Figure 3.3: Maps of strategic groupsof garment retailers

4. ConclusionThe strategic map is a logical and overall architecturefor the description of a strategy. The bases of a stra-tegic map are: competences of all employees, appliedmodern technology and organizational culture. This isthe infrastructure: support for the usage of internalresources, meeting the needs of consumers and mak-ing profits for the company.

The strategic map ensures that the vision and strategyare transferred into the system of specific objectivesand criteria which then allow regular monitoring andmeasuring of their realisation. It measures not onlythe current value of the company's assets, but also itsability to create the value in the future.

Fashion industry in the world will not give any resultsunless it strives for necessary improvements that willlead to productivity growth, more rational usage of allnatural resources and cost reduction, i.e. it does notsee the necessity for changes in management, capacityand planning.It implies implementing new solutions inproduction together with implementing new informa-tional systems, management techniques and moderndesign.

Many associations and societies of textile and garmentindustry should work on strengthening the awarenessabout the importance of garment industry in the world,creating the image of garment industry, improvingtechnology and stimulating innovations and new wayof thinking.

References

1. Colovic G., Strategic management in the garmentindustry, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cam-bridge, Oxford, New Delhi, Philadelphia, 2012

2. Kaplan R.S., Norton D.P., The Strategy-FocusedOrganization: How Balanced Scorecard Compa-nies Thrive in the New Business Environment,Harvard Business School Press, Boston, Massa-chusetts, USA, pp 69, 2001

3. Strategy Maping and Balanced Scorecard (Avail-able: http://www.omega ps.hr/balanced.html,10.05.2016)

4. Kaplan R.S., Norton D.P., Having Trouble withYour Strategy? Then Map It, Harvard BusinessReview, USA, pp 2, 2000

5. Colovic G., Paunovic D., Maksimovic N., De-signing and Making Clothes Using 3D CAD so-lutions, International Textile Conference NEDITC,pp 30-37, 2016

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Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently aGM (Technical services) in AtulLtd. He is heading the technicalteam in the area of textile dyes andchemicals for both domestic andinternational market. He has a vastexperience of around 20 years inTechnical services of dyestuffs andchemicals like ICI (India), ltd.,Croda Chemicals, JaysynthDyechem Ltd., Serene DyestuffLtd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. and IndokemLtd.

Dr. Athalye did his Ph.D. (Tech.)Textile Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.)and B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT(formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. Healso did Diploma (DIM), AdvancedDiploma (ADM) and specializationin Marketing Management (DMM)from I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He hasa vast knowledge in the field ofdyes and chemicals. A Fellow ofSociety of Dyers and Colorists,SDC, UK, Dr. Athalye has manyresearch and review publicationsto his credit.

Email : ashok_athalye@atul.co.in

Ashok Athalye

AbstractTextile is an integral part of human life and is used for various purpose comprisingapparel clothing, home furnishing and technical aspects. The protective clothingencompasses both the apparel as well as the technical functions and helps shieldthe wearer from harsh environment. With increasing consumer awareness anddemands the protective garb is emerging as one of the fastest growing textilesegments.

Key wordsCamouflage printing, surveillance, night vision, Infra-Red emission

IntroductionDifferent types of protections are required during various kind of manualactivities and the immediate layer surrounding human skin | body is invariablythe textile material. Thus incorporating the desired technical performancefunctionality along with the inherent requirements of wearability, helps improvethe protectiveness of the clothing.

The basic requirements of apparel wear are - feel, comfort, light weight,strength, durability, dimensional stability, drape, etc while the functionalrequirements include permeability, insulation, conductivity, repellency, visibility,etc. The protective textiles comprises about 1.5% of the total textile marketwith an estimated value of US$ 5.5bn and the consumption is expected togrow at 10-12 % per year.The different types of protections from the textileclothing include

Biological wear - anti-contamination dress, surgical | hospital wear

Chemicalwear - gloves, masks

Electromagnetic wear-uv radiation, sun protection

Mechanical wear - cut, tear and puncture resistance

Ballistic wear - bullet, sharpenel

Thermal wear - firefighter suit, space suit, high altitude-snow cover

Workwear - high visibility jackets

Defence wear - military uniforms

Defence wear has to exhibit unique performance characteristics due to thediverse hostile conditions under which it has to function. The ultimate successof combat troop depends not only on the physical fitness or the superiorityof the arms and ammunition but also on the comfort, mobility and protectionprovided by the clothing. Fabrics are tailored to provide protection againstoperating weather conditions (heat, cold, wind, and rain) as well as detectionfrom the surrounding terrain to achieve soldier's mobility, concealment andsurvival by camouflage effect.

Efficacy of a camouflage is to allow clothing and military objects to blendinto surrounding environment and blurring the characteristic contours of anobject that can no longer be perceived against its background.The globalrequirement of camouflage fabrics is anticipated to be more than 350 mnmeters annually for about 35 mn soldiers which includes army, air force,navy, coast guards and para military forces. Also, the camouflage textiles areused for concealing equipment like tents, jeep | truck covers, etc.A widevariety of camouflaged textile patterns have been developed to suit the need

Protective Textiles

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to match different kinds of combat terrain such aswoodland, snow, and desert.

Camouflage clothing gives a unique effect by making itappear as a part of the natural surroundings. This providesconcealment that allows soldiers to remain unnoticed byblending with their environment and minimise the risk ofbeing seen by an enemy. Camouflage patterns aim tovisually disrupt the shape of the body, so that the bodyoutline is less easily recognised, and also to provide colorsor areas of light and dark which approximate theirsurroundings. For this a specific shade gamut is required(earth tones such as khaki, grey, olive and brown) withexcellent fastness properties to light, weathering, washingand rubbing. The print shape and area depend onapplication - small designs mainly for near camouflagewhile large designs for distant camouflage.

Traditionally, such camouflage was aimed at beingeffective in the visible region, however, with the widespread use of night vision surveillance, camouflaging forNIR (Near Infra-Red) has become a critical requirement.This is achievedby comprising at least two areas of IRreflectivity, differing by 10%.It can conceal the objectboth in the visible (380 nm - 780 nm) and near infrared- NIR, (780 nm - 1200 nm) radiation range. The IR-absorbing vat dyes of the camouflage print generallyensure that wearers are largely 'invisible' to the night-vision devices.

Quality and optimum performance arecriticalforcamouflage textiles for military wear. This starts withproper selection of fibres, construction of fabric, andusage of specific dyes and chemicals to achieve expectedperformance effects. Cotton and blends with polyesterfollowed by poly-wool blend fabrics constitute the majortextile substrate used for camouflage protection. Wovenfabrics with different weave structures like plain, matt,twill and satin/sateen are commonly used.Variousapplication methods are adopted depending on theavailability of equipment's.

Exact and specific information regarding dyeing shades,print designs, area of coverage, etc. is not freely availableas the Governments and defenceforces do not disclosesuch details. Similarly,the textile processors are alsoexpected to maintain secrecy because of theirnon?disclosure agreements.

The printing of vat dyes on cellulosic fabric involvesfollowing sequence

◆ Application of the vat dyes in a suitably thickenedmedium

◆ Reduction of the vat dye to the alkali leucoform

◆ Diffusion of the leuco vat dye through the thickeninginto the fibre

◆ Oxidation of the leuco vat to the original insolubledye form

◆ Soaping to develop thefinal shade and desiredfastness

Steaming is the most important and critical operation in

Radiation range Wavelength Requirements for Method of detectioncamouflage

Visible spectrum 400 - 800 nm Should match colour, texture and Visual detection by eye.appearance of the background.

UV 200- 400 nm Should match optical properties of snow Detection by UV detectors orand ice. eye

Near IR 750- 2000 nm Should match reflectance of background IR photography. Night visionwhen viewed by image intensifiers. devices

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Vat printing. As soon as the printed and dried fabricenters the steamers, the steam condenses into water(contact of steam with cold fabric). Reducing agentdissolves into the moisture thus supplied. With rise intemp the reducing agent alongwith alkali reduces andsolublises the vat dye. The dissolved leuco vat dye isthen transferred from moist thickener film into fabricduring steaming.The steam must be free from air toprevent decomposition and loss of reducing agent at hightemperature which is required for complete reduction ofdye for achieving optimum color yield.

Given below are few examples along with the processand recipe used for developing camouflage designs.

The dyed and printed fabric is applied with differentfinishing chemicals to impart comfort feel as well asdesired functional effects like wrinkle free easy care,water-oil-stain repellency, moisture management, flameretardancy, UV protection, antimicrobial, insect repellent,sensory perception/odour absorbent, etc. by variousthermo-chemical application methods like padding,

coating, spraying.

Summary

Protective textiles with camouflage coloration for militarywear is considered to be one of the fastest growing, highvalue segment.It helps protect the armed forces fromvisual and IR detection as well as ensures that the soldierscan perform to the best of their abilities under extremeclimatic conditions.

References

1. www.technical textile.net

2. V.Rubeziene, G.Minkuviene, J. Baltusnikaite, I.Padleckiene., Vol. 15, No. 2. 2009, Material Science,"Development of Visible and Near InfraredCamouflage Textile Materials"-

3. P.Osterman and M. Glogar, Oct 2008, Magic Worldof Textiles, "Olive Green haded military cloths innature surrounding"".

Ground Shade

NOVATIC Yellow 4GL MD -3.5 g/lNOVATIC Brill Red 3B MD -1.0 g/lNOVATIC Olive TN MD - 5.5 g/lNOVATIC Yellow 3R MD - 1.84 g/lNOVATIC Brill Red 3B MD-0.24 g/lNOVATIC Olive TN MD - 1.85 g/l

Over-print

BrownNOVAPASTE Brown RRD - 2.8%NOVAPASTE Pink R - 2.0%NOVAPASTE Black BG - 2.2%Bottle GreenNOVAPASTE Yellow GCN - 2.5%NOVAPASTE Olive Green B - 0.9%NOVAPASTE Black BG - 4.0%

GreenNOVAPASTE Golden Yellow GOK-0.09%NOVAPASTE Brown RRD - 2.2%NOVAPASTE Olive Green B - 2.8%BrownNOVAPASTE Brown RRD - 2.8%NOVAPASTE Pink R - 2.0%NOVAPASTE Black BG - 2.2%BlackNOVAPASTE Olive Green B - 2.0%NOVAPASTE Brown RRD - 2.0%NOVAPASTE Black BG - 5.0%

Pattern

Make more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and services

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Graphene, a one-atom-thick planar sheet of sp2 -bonded carbon atoms is densely packed in a honey-comb crystal lattice. It is the basic structural elementof other allotropes, including graphite, carbonnanotubes, diamond and fullerenes. Carbon is one ofthe most abundantly found elements in the earth's crust.It has multiple allotropes and each one of them hasproved to be very useful to mankind. Graphene is oneof such allotropes. Its wide honeycomb network is thebasic building block of other important allotropes. Itcan be stacked to form 3D graphite, rolled to produce1D nanotubes and also wrapped to form 0D fullerenes.

"Graphene" is a combination of "graphite" and thesuffix-ene named by a German chemist Hanns-PeterBoehm who is considered as the pioneer of grapheneresearch. The term graphene first appeared in 1987 todescribe single sheets of graphite as a constituent ofgraphite intercalation compounds (GIC); which is noother than the crystalline salt of the intercalant andgraphene. It can be considered as the "infinite alternant"- a six member carbon ring polycyclic aromatic hydro-carbon.

Graphene was already studied theoretically in the text-book as an example for calculations in solid state

The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal ofthe Textile Association. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past fewyears. Thankful to its unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinousand complex physical properties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its differentmethods of preparation and isolation, useful applications in various fields of science and technology, itsscience involved in the technology of textiles, and finally ending up with its future prospects.

This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already workingin graphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledgeof graphene and its application in textiles.

In the previous chapter, the readers were given a brief introduction to the emergence of different carbon forms.The history involved in the discovery of such wonder material- graphene and how it came into the existenceof materials science. An outline of the extraordinary properties and its applications in diverse fields were alsomentioned in the chapter.

The present chapter deals with the introduction to this wonder material. It covers about the existence ofgraphene in this earth in various forms and also its method of production. A brief idea on the essentialproperties possessed by such material is being given to the readers. This chapter also comprehends the widepotential applications of graphene in the fields of material science and technology.

Chapter 2GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL: Introduction

Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

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physics by P. R. Wallace, National Research Councilof Canada in 1947. It paved the starting point for goodunderstanding of the 3D graphite. Scientists from dif-ferent nooks of the world had theorized about graphenefor several years. It had also been produced in minutequantities for centuries. It was originally observed inelectron microscopes in 1962 but was studied onlywhile supported on metal surfaces. One of the firstpatents attributing to the production of graphene wasfiled in October 2002 and was granted in 2006. Itcontained the first large scale production process ofgraphene. Two years later in 2004, the material wasrediscovered, isolated and characterized by AndreGeim and Konstantin Novoselov at the University ofManchester, UK. They extracted single-atom-thick crys-tallites from bulk graphite onto thin silicon dioxide(SiO

2) on a silicon wafer by a process called

micromechanical cleavage or Scotch tape technique.Finally, this groundbreaking experiment in such won-der material resulted in Geim and Novoselov to be theNobel laureates in 2010.

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Figure 1: Graphene hexagonal lattice

Forms of GrapheneGraphene a single atom thick hexagonal networkedsheet of carbon atoms can be suspended freely oradhered on a foreign substrate. Its lateral dimensionsmay vary from several nanometers to microscale. Asingle layer graphene i.e. monolayer is the purest formtill now and is very much advantageous for high tech-nology electronic applications. Similarly, Bi-layer andTri-layer graphene, two and three layers respectivelycan exhibit several other properties with the increasein the number of layers. Few-Layer or Multi-Layeredgraphene consist of >4 layers of well defined, count-able, stacked graphene layers. They can be in sheet,films or flakes form and are mainly used for mechani-cal reinforcement in composite materials.

Graphene can also exist in the form of oxides com-monly termed as Graphene Oxide (GO) which is usu-ally a monolayer material with high oxygen content,where C/O atomic ratio is generally in between 2 to 3.It is produced by oxidation of graphite and exfoliationof graphite which is followed by panoptic oxidation ofthe basal planes of carbon sheets. The membranes aremostly prepared using GO useful in allowing water topass through but restrict harmful gases.

There are some other kinds of graphene based materi-als which are basically termed as Graphenenanomaterials. These materials include Graphenenanoribbons, Graphene nanosheets, Graphenenanoflakes, etc. They are defined as two-dimensionalgraphene materials with a thickness and/or lateral di-mension of usually less than 100 nm. They are not anintegral part of carbon material but are freely suspendedor adhered on a foreign substrate. They are most effec-tive for electrically conductive composites.

Production MethodsChemical ExfoliationThis method involves the synthesis of graphene oxidefrom graphite as the starting material by oxidationprocess followed by the reduction of graphene oxideinto reduced graphene oxide (r-GO). Graphite is chemi-cally modified into a water dispersible intermediarygraphene oxide by oxidizing using Hummer's method.The biggest advantage of this process is its low costand large scalability.

Mechanical ExfoliationThis method is most popularly known as the "ScotchTape" method by Geim and Novoselov of Universityof Manchester, UK. They used an adhesive tape tobreak the graphite layers into individual graphene lay-ers. Multiple exfoliation steps are generally requiredto produce single layers. It can produce graphene hav-ing the lowest number of defects and highest electronmobility.

Thermal Decomposition and Chemical VapourDepositionChemical Vapour Deposition of graphene on transitionmetal films is the another-substrate based method whereusually silicon wafers or nickel films are used withmethane gas as a source. The solubility of carbon inthe transition metal reduces upon cooling of the sub-strate and a thin film of carbon is precipitated on thesurface.

De Heer and his group at the Georgia Institute ofTechnology developed an epitaxial method in whichgraphene is produced from the high-temperature re-duction of silicon carbide at around 10000C in ultra-high vacuum, leaving very small amounts of graphi-tized carbon. This process is technically referred to as"Thermal Decomposition of Graphene".

The biggest advantage of these two techniques is thatthey are capable of producing a single layer of grapheneover an entire wafer and provide the easiest way tointegrate the material into current semiconductor de-vices.

PropertiesMechanicalGraphene is the strongest material that has been everdiscovered in the world. It is about 200 times strongerthan the strongest steel with a tensile strength of around130 GPa and a stiffness of about 1 TPa. Apart frombeing the strongest material, it has been also claimed

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to be the lightest till found on earth, weighing onlyabout 0.77 mg/sq. m.

ElectricalGraphene is a very high electrically conductive mate-rial with zero-gap semi-conductivity, because of itsconduction and valence bands coinciding with eachother at the Dirac points. A carbon atom is having totalsix electrons each, two in the inner shell and four inthe outermost shell. In Graphene, each Carbon atom isbonded to three other atoms due to sp2 - hybridizationthus leaving one free electron available for the elec-tronic conduction. The electron mobility of such ma-terial is found to be very high even at room tempera-ture.

OpticalGraphene produces a very opaque atomic monolayerin a vacuum because it has a very good ability toabsorb approximately 2.3% of the white light intensityindependent of the wavelength in the optical domain.An addition of another layer of Graphene also increasesthe amount of white light absorbed by approximatelythe same value. This is due to the unusual low-energyelectronic structure of monolayer graphene that fea-tures electron and hole conical bands meeting eachother at the Dirac point.

ThermalGraphene has a very good thermal conductivity whichis dominated by phonons and has been measured to beapproximately 5000 W/m/K. It can conduct heat al-most 10 times more than copper where copper has athermal conductivity of around 500 W/m/K.

ApplicationsEnergy StorageOne area of research that is being vastly studied isenergy storage. One of the common problems observedis in the large storage of energy in batteries and ca-pacitors when it is not being used. These energy stor-age solutions have been developing at a much slowerrate. A battery can potentially hold a lot of energy buttakes a lot of time to charge whereas a capacitor canbe charged very quickly but can't hold that much ofenergy for a long time. The solution will be of devel-oping energy storage components like either asupercapacitor or a battery that is able to provide bothof these positive characteristics without compromise.Presently, scientists are working on improving thecapacities of lithium ion batteries by incorporatinggraphene to enhance storage capacity with much bet-

ter longevity and charge rate. Graphene basedsupercapacitors and lithium ion batteries can be usedin much higher energy usage applications insmartphones, laptops, tablets, computers with signifi-cantly lower levels of size and weight.

Figure 2: Graphene as a battery

Photovoltaic CellEven with a very low amount of light absorption(around 2.3% of white light) very high electron mobil-ity suggests that graphene can be used as an alterna-tive to silicon or Indium tin oxide in the manufactureof photovoltaic cells. Silicon cells are extensively usedin the manufacture of photovoltaic cells but are verycostly compared to graphene based cells. When siliconturns light into electricity it produces a photon forevery electron produced resulting in huge loss of po-tential energy as heat. Also, it is wavelength specificwhereas graphene is efficient on all wavelengths oflight. Graphene based photovoltaic cells being veryflexible and ultra-thin are helpful in recharging mobilephones, retro-fitted photovoltaic window screens orcurtains to help power the entire home.

Figure 3: Graphene as a solar cell

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UltrafiltrationAnother remarkable property of graphene is that itallows water to pass through it while it is almost to-tally impervious to liquids and gases (even relativelysmall helium molecules). Thus graphene can be usedas an ultrafiltration medium acting as a barrier be-tween two substances. The benefit of using such ma-terial is that it is only single atom thick. A team ofresearchers at Columbia University have researched alot to manufacture monolayer graphene filters with poresizes as small as 5 nm (usually advanced nanoporousmembranes have pore sizes of 30-40 nm). Presently,graphene is being used in water filtration systems,desalination systems, etc.

Figure 4: Graphene as a membrane

BioengineeringIt will certainly be a field in which graphene willbecome an essential part of in the near future. Enor-mous researches in this area suggest that the comingdecade will see widespread use of graphene in bio-logical applications. With graphene offering a very largesurface area, high electrical conductivity, thinness andstrength can make a good material for the develop-ment of fast and efficient bioelectric sensory devices,with the ability to monitor glucose levels, haemoglo-bin levels, cholesterol and even DNA sequencing. Dueto its molecular make-up and potential biocompatibility,it can eventually be utilized in tissue engineering.

Figure 5: Graphene as biosensors

Optical ElectronicsOne of the most important areas where graphene tech-nology is being widely used on a commercial scale isoptoelectronics like touchscreens, liquid crystal dis-plays (OLED), and organic light emitting diodes(OLEDs). For a material to be used in optoelectronicapplications, it must be able to transmit more than90% of light as well as to have good electrical con-ductive properties exceeding 106Wm, therefore, havinglow electrical resistance. Graphene is a very transpar-ent material as it can optically transmit up to 97% oflight. It is also a highly conductive material. Theseproperties make Graphene to be highly effective in thereplacement of ITO. It is a high strength material witha very good flexibility making it inevitable to be usedin optoelectronic applications.

Figure 6: Graphene in optoelectronics

Textiles and CompositesGraphene is a very strong, stiff and lightweight mate-rial. Currently, aerospace engineers are incorporatingcarbon fibre in the manufacture of aircraft as it is alsovery strong and light but not more than that of graphene.It is being utilized to replace carbon fibre and steel inthe aircraft, improving fuel efficiency, range and re-ducing weight. Owing to its high electric properties itcan also be used to coat aircraft surface material toprevent electrical damage caused by thunder strikes.Graphene coating can also be used to measure strainrate, notifying the pilot of any changes in the stresslevels of aircraft wings. High strength requirement inbody armours of military personnel and vehicles is achallenging requirement for the application of graphene.

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Texttreasure

Some of the brightest minds in the country can befound on the last benches of the classroom.

- Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam

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Figure 7: Graphene in aircraft

Researchers at the Cambridge Graphene Centre (CGC)at the University of Cambridge, UK, working in col-laboration with scientists at Jiangnan University, Chinaare developing graphene based inks for cotton to pro-duce a conductive textile. The work suggests a numberof commercial opportunities for graphene-based inks,ranging from personal health technology, high-perfor-mance sportswear, military garments, wearable tech-nology/computing and fashion.

SummaryGraphene the well famed two-dimensional (2D) car-bon allotrope, is as versatile a material as ever discov-ered on earth. Its astonishing properties as the lightestand strongest material in addition to good conductionof heat and electricity better than anything else ismaking it attributable to a wide area of applications inthe fields of material science. Initially, it is being usedto enhance the performance and efficiency of currentmaterials and substances, but in near future, it willalso be developed in conjunction with other 2D crys-tals to create even more amazing compounds to suit aneven wider range of applications. The research on thiswonder material is still in its early stage and deservesimpetus to discover its true potential.

Bibliography1. Aissa B., Memon N. K., Ali A and Khraisheh M.

K., Frontiers in Materials, 2, 1-19, (2015).2. Allen M. J., Tung V. C. and Kaner R. B., Chem.

Rev., 110, 132-145, (2010).

Mr. Saptarshi Maiti is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in theDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Instituteof Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Graphene, Dendritic struc-tures, Nanotechnology, Textile dyeing and Green processing of Textiles.Mr. Pintu Pandit is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in theDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli, at Institute ofChemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas of interest are Graphene, Plasma Technology,Nanotechnology, Natural dyeing and Multifunctional finishing of Textile materials.Ms. Geetal Mahajan is currently pursuing Ph.D. (Tech.) in Fibres and Textile Processing Technology in theDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, under Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar, at Instituteof Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. Her research areas of interest are Fermentation Technologyin Textiles, Textile colouration, Speciality finishes, Natural dyes, Green processing of Textiles using Naturalproducts.Prof. (Dr.) Ravindra V. Adivarekar is currently Professor and Head of the Department of Fibres and TextileProcessing Technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, India. His research areas ofinterest are Textile colouration, Green processing of Textiles, Medical Textiles, Graphene, Enzyme manufac-turing and application, Natural dyes for Textiles and Cosmetics, Novel Textile Processing Techniques andTextile composites. He has around 5 years of Industrial Experience mainly of Processing and Dyestuff manu-facturing companies prior to being faculty for last 13 years. He has filed 4 patents and published around 150papers in journals of National and International repute.Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli is a senior most Professor and former Head of the Department of Fibres andTextile Processing Technology as well as former Dean at the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai,India. He is a Fellow of CSIR-CNRS (France), Maharashtra Academy of Science, Honorary F.T.A and ShikshaRatna. His research areas of interest are Natural dyes, Plasma Technology, Nanotechnology, Graphene, Superabsorbents and Speciality finishes. He has guided 120 Master's and Doctoral students with over 370 publi-cations/conference presentations and edited 25 books. He is an Independent Director of Siyaram Silk Mills,Chairman of Editorial Board of JTA and a Managing Trustee of Baha'i Lotus Temple, Delhi.

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The grand success of the First India & South AsiaTextile Summit held in the city of Mumbai at FourSeasons Hotel on 7th & 8th of June, 2017 along withECV International, China had excellent response fromthe technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders,educationist from the participating from 12 countriesas well as local Govt. dignitaries prompted the TextileAssociation (India) to take up the challenge of orga-nizing the India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017.

DAY-1, 7th June 2017India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 was jointlyorganized at Mumbai, India by The Textile Associa-tion (India) TAI and ECV International, China along-with knowledge partner Institute of Chemical Tech-nology (ICT) who has assisted conference organisingat each level. The Conference has attempted to discussvarious Global issues and how to maintain businessand explore strength of each and every country in Asiaregion.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI delivering his welcomeaddress

President, The Textile Association (India) Mr. ArvindSinha mentioned in his inaugural and welcome ad-dress that in current situation where world is facingmany issues such as Global Macro economic condi-tions were volatile, Geo political tensions, polarisation,populism, Safety and security issues with impact ontraveling and buying Shifts in consumer behaviour,Very competitive market, High pressure on margins,Politicians and public opinion in major countries notin favour of globalisation, Trans Pacific Partnershipdeal blown up by US.

(TPP), TTIP (EU-USA) is in the freezer. (TTIP),NAFTA (US-Canada-Mexico) might be re-negociated.(NAFTA), CETA (EU-Canada) signed but not afterstrong opposition at the end (CETA), Brexit, Importduties in the US?

It is very important that Asian countries get togetherparticularly India, China, Korea & Vietnam etc andconduct business on their own strength and each oneof them should play with their strength. Countries likeBangladesh, Myanmar, Sri Lank are merging as newdestination for manufacturing. Bangladesh has shownexcellent results in spite of various limiting factors.This Conference was enthusiastically attended bylumaneries from texlite and allied sectors from abouttwelve countries making it truly a Global Summit. Also,members of TAI, faculty and students from ICT, mem-bers of TITOBA, leading technocrats, industrialists,manufacturers, traders and businessmen turned out ingreat numbers for the India & South Asia TextileSummit 2017 with great expectation of being exposedto sea of technological advancements and knowledgein multifarious exponents of textiles from galaxy ofspeakers.

Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS lightening the lamp

The tone was appropriately set by the Chief Guest Dr.(Mrs.) Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner ofIndia who spoke very high of the cohesive efforts ofthe textile technocrats from TAI, ECV and ICT toorganize such a mega event in the country and tonurture a sincere thirst for global knowledge in tex-tiles in pursuit of attaining excellence in the worldmarket. She expressed her satisfaction that there hasbeen a progressive trends in Textiles in respect of globalcompetitiveness level.

India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017Summary of Summit 2017

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She encouraged the participants, particularly the insti-tutions and the industry leaders to invest in basic re-search, innovations and sophistication to meet globalchallenges in keeping with Government support. Shealso invited all participants and speakers to the megaevent organised Ministry of Textiles in Ghandinagaron 30th June, 1st July & 2nd July 2017.

The Textile Association (India) also honoured digni-taries from Textile Industry for their outstanding con-tributions for Textile Industry for so long. Dignitarieshonoured were Shri. Suresh Kotak, Shri R.D. Udeshi,Shri Rajeev Gopal, Dr. M.D. Teli, Shri SubhashBhargava, Shri Kasper Nossent, Shri Vidyut Acharya,Shri Faruque Hassan & Shri Felix Fernando.

Shri Suresh Kotak is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri R.D. Udeshi is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Rajeev Gopal is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Dr. M.D. Teli is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Subhash Bhargava is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Kasper Nossent is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Vidyut Acharya is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

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Shri Faruque Hassan is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Shri Felix Fernando is felicitated by hands ofChief Guest Dr. Kavita Gupta

Plenary Session -I

First speaker of the Plenary Session was Mr. R. D.Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reliance Indus-tries Ltd. Mr. Udeshi spoke very well and informaudience that many global and international factorsare supporting India and India is leading Industrialgrowth from the front. He also expressed various pointsand discussions being held for new venture and ex-pressed India's future is very good and coming yearswill see a new India emerging as Textile Power House.

Second speaker of the Plenary Session was Mr. ShaileshMartis from TEXPROCIL, he informed to audienceabout various FTAs India has their influence in TextileIndustry.He also expressed various incoming FTAs which willprovide boost to business from India and presentedbusiness prospective for India.

Mr. Kasper Nossent of Dyecoo Industries informedthe audience that they are manufacturing dyeing ma-chine which does not use water, CO2 gas is used in-stead and it is a huge green environment initiativesupported by Colourtex, NIKE shoes and IKEA.

He is also presented economics of the machine andwaterless dyes which could be the moral of businessin coming years. This is purely a green environmentinitiative.

Mr. Suresh Kotak mentioned that there is lot of re-search happening for Cotton, India has developed verysuperior quality of cotton which has high strength can

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be used for industrial textiles. He also mentioned thatIndia is an agricultural country and each bale of cottongenerates employment for poor people. Quality stan-dards are sometimes issues however, lot of controlsare exercised by various agencies for quality improve-ment and due course of time we will see the facts.He expressed future cotton is very bright and Indiawill continue their position as leading supplier of cot-ton fiber, fabric & yarn.

Mr. Atul Ujagar, Country Director NIKE India, SriLanka & Pakistan shared his many experiences andexpressed that India is coming up a trustworthy sup-plier and there is a tremendous improvement in Indianquality in last few years. However, he mentioned thatthe volumes are not available in India and there isneed to extend manufacturing capability. He also men-tioned that cost are going up in China but for a largervolume destination in China.

Mr. Shirish Srivastva, Country Manager- ApparelSourcing (India) Puma Global Sourcing shared hisexperiences and mentioned India is coming up verywell but still far away comparing to China and othercountries.

But feel is positive and it will take few more yearsbefore we can buy larger volumes from India.

Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Former Chairman, SRTEPC hasreally shared his experiences and various issues theyare facing.He also mentioned that initiatives of current govern-ment and particularly ministry of textiles and defi-nitely bringing good results and improvement in oursupply based.

He is also mentioned that we need to built capacitiesand reduced our delivery time, ready stocks generallynot available and foreign buyers knows if they have tobuy textiles from India delivery takes time and therecan be unforeseen circumstances which might delaythat delivery.

Post lunch there was a very powerful panel discussionon Analysis of Scenario of Textile in South Asia. Itwas moderated by Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO,Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

And the Panellists were Mr. Faruque Hassan, Sr. VicePresident, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Ex-porters Association, Bangladesh, Mr. Felix Fernando,Chairman, Sri Lanka Apparel Exports Association, Mr.Shailesh Martis, Joint Director, Texprocil, Mr. ArvindSinha, President, Textile Association (India) & Mrs.Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, AEPC. This was in-deed a very powerful discussions.

Mr. Faruque from Bangladesh briefed about Bangladesh

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textile industry, he mentioned that industries becom-ing very serious about compliances and environmentalissues and most of the investments which is happeningin Bangladesh is from Bangladesh. Road transporta-tion between India and Bangladesh is still not upto themark, waiting time at check post are eight days, somany deliveries are routed through sea which is faster.He mentioned that in Bangladesh most of the fabricsis coming from China but gradually manufactures arealso buying from India.

Mr. Felix Fernando from Sri Lanka informs that theirmain products ladies under garments and they are alsocoming up in ladies outer wears and lot of investmentscoming from China. Their shipping routes are verygood and textile industry is emerging as second bestindustry after tourism. Sri Lanka is looking at Indiawith great hopes for their future development.

Mr. Shailesh Martis informed audience there is agrowth in volumes but India is far behind then Chinaand there need to be capacity building & better qualitycontrol in order to gain volumes.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, Textile Association (In-dia) informed that capacity building is a major assign-ment which we all should commit, we should havefew large projects 400 high quality looms along withstate of art processing house, producing 2 millionmeters of fabric every day. This will bring lot of highvolume purchasers, growth stories in China,Bangladesh & Korea etc these all will directed byhuge super markets in USA and another places.

Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee shared her experiences ingarmenting in India and she supported all the panellistsin agreeing need for huge capacities, quality fabrics,state of art quality control set ups etc and she in-formed that AEPC is already working the directionsseriously.

L to R: Mr. Subhash Bhargava & Mr. Ishtiaq Ali

Mr. Calvin Woolley, Global Supplier DevelopmentLeader, IKEA expressed IKEAs quality control sys-tems, their commitment to quality and green energyinitiative.

He also mentioned that they are opening stores in Indiaand showed us presentation slides of their upcomingstores near Hyderabad Metro station. He also expressedmany details about IKEAs ongoing commitment forquality.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, Chairman and Managing Di-rector, Colorant Limited, very very interesting presen-tation indicating past, present and future of IndianDyestuff Industry. The whole narration was fantasticand audience were very impressed. He also expressedthere is a great future of Dyestuff Industry.

Mr. Ishtiaq Ali, Senior Consul and Leading Lawyer,Orbit Law Company had discussed important of IndiaLaws and how friendly Indian Lawyers, it treats In-dian and foreigners at same level and Indian Law isknown for his transparency. He mentioned many in-teresting points regarding new Insolvency Laws inIndia.

DAY-2, June 8th, 2017

L to R: Mrs Chandrima Chatterjee, Mr. Varun Singhi &Ms Rakhi Vashisht

Day-2 started with Mr. Varun Singhi, leading consult-ant of Logistics & Supply Chain, Ex-Gap explainedthe problems with Indian Supply Chain system wherethinks can go wrong for no reason. It is very difficultto come deliveries in time, shipments in time, most ofthe ports are not ready to handle mother vessels, infew states connectivity to the ports are considerablyand other ports are also following however this is avery long process will take couple of years.

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Mrs. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor AEPC informedthe audience there is a tremendous development ingarment industry, new trends, innovations and newproducts such as sportswear are increasing, develop-ment process also become very fast and governmenthas launched through AEPC lot of new schemes toassist new development and innovation.

Ms. Rakhi Vashisht, Head of Raw Material, VF Cor-poration expressed difficulties in managing supplychain from India, time deliveries is big issue and vol-umes are missing. She has expressed the need ofmodern facilities and large volumes is required in In-dia now. She also added that situation is changing inIndia and may be in next five years India will be ableto compete very well with China etc.

L to R: Mr. Felic Fernando, Mr. Arvind Bhansali,Dr. Sanjay Muthal,

Mr. Avinash Mayekar & Mr. Faruque Hassan

Dr. Sanjay Muthal, Executive Director, RGF Manage-ment Research has informed the audience that worldis changing and so is all practices, business styles,man power requirements. We are all becoming digitaland getting modernized and computerized in day byday, therefore the human behavior is also changingdrastically and there is a strong need for everyone tochange and time is becoming very fast so everybodyneeds performer.

Mr. Arvind Bhansali, Senior Vice President - Taxation,Reliance Industries Ltd. made a very powerful andhigh opening presentation on GST. He expressed this

is a very big exercise which will take few months toget settle.

Mr. Faruque Hassan, Sr. Vice President, BangladeshGarment Manufacturers & Exporters, Bangladesh. Mr.Faruque Hassan briefed the audience about Bangladesh,business procurement and how Bangladesh has facedmany hurdles of compliances. He also mentioned thatnew investments are coming up but from Bangladeshonly and they are extremely focus on garment indus-try.

Mr. Felix Fernando, Chairman, Sri Lanka Textile Ex-porter Association given lot of details about the textileindustry in Sri Lanka. He also mentioned Textile In-dustry is second Tourism in Sri Lanka and whatevertextile sectors China is vacating it is coming to SriLanka.

Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD & CEO, Suvin AdvisorsPvt. Ltd. presented a detailed report on technical tex-tiles in India, the progress is slow but scope is verylarge and with attention from Government of India itwill do very well.

L to R: Mr. M.M. Chockalingam, Mr. Mrugank Paranjape,Mr. Suresh Kotak & Dr. Hemant Sonare

2nd Panel discussion India Cotton Industry way aheadpresented in the panel were Mr. Suresh Kotak, Mod-erator, Mr. Manish Dagga, Dr. Hemant Sonare, Mr.Mrugank Paranjape & Mr. M. M. Chockalingam, bigvalue contents for cotton in the panel discussion, hugeopportunities, good researches will ultimately give verygood results. Shri Suresk Kotak shared his experiencesand said the future of India cotton is very bright.

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L to R: Mr. Rajiv Pande, Mr. K.T. Ramakrishnan &Mr. Pradeep Mukherjee

Mr. Rajiv Pande, President, PERF (Brand of RahmanIndustries Limited), Noida presented a powerful sce-nario on sportswear, he mentioned that India needs togain substantial portion of the sportswear market.

Mr. K. T. Ramakrishnan, Head of Operation World-wide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) In-dia & Sri Lanka, he briefed the audience WRAP sys-tem and compliances and expressed its important. Heis already becoming very popular internationally.

Mr. Pradeep Mukherjee, Senior Consultant, GherziConsulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd. He briefed and men-tioned on the Sourcing Strategy of International Buy-ers. He highlighted the World Trade growth, Interna-tional buyers, Salient points for first screening, Nor-mal lead time for entering vendor, Pro-active stepspossible by suppliers etc. in his presentation.

View of the audience

View of the audience

Conference ended vote of thanks by Mr. V. D. Zope,Chairman and President, Mr. Arvind Sinha, The Tex-tile Association (India) expressed a great thanks toECV, participants & sponsors for supporting the con-ference.

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73rd All India Textile Conference

Hosted by

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA) - Vidarbha Unit

January 05-06, 2018

Venue: Vasantrao Deshpande Sabhagriha, Nagpur, India

Contribute by way of Sponsoring, Advertisements & Enrolling Delegates

Contact:

Dr. Hemant Sonare, Hon. Secretary, Organizing Chairman of Conference

26, Raghukul, Pragati Colony, Near Pragati Hall, Chhatrapati Squre, Wardha Road,

Nagpur - 440 015

M.: 9860930380, 9822573341, E-mail: hemantsonare@gmail.com,

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The A 12 UNIfloc is the new automatic bale openerfrom Rieter. It is part of the blowroom lineVARIOline and supplies the downstream machinesand cards with material. With the A 12, theVARIOline attains a production rate of over 2 000kg/h. The machine has been completely redesigned.With the A 12, Rieter relies on a design that is alsoused in the Formula One.

A 12 UNIfloc -the modern and efficient art of bale opening

Patented wobble disc take-off roller in the take-off unit.For gentle, continuous extraction of the tufts

A 12 UNIFLOC - The Art of Automatic Bale OpeningThe construction of the UNIfloc is based on the so-called "Monocoque" design. This is familiar from thefield of aircraft construction or the Formula One. Theresult is a stable, maintenance-friendly machine forhighest production.

A further feature of the A 12 is the innovative balescanning. The take-off unit determines the differentheights of the bales by means of scanning force mea-surement and quickly equals them out. Through thisuniform take-off, the machine achieves its highestpossible production rate in the shortest time.

Inside the take-off unit, there is a roller with numerousteeth which gently opens the bales into very smalltufts. This is the basis for effective cleaning anddedusting in the subsequent blowroom process. Re-markable is that the A 12 is extremely efficient, evenwith these very small tufts.

In the A 12, motors and servo-units of the latest tech-nology are used and this also enables the UNIfloc torecover energy during production. The brake powerwhich is generated during reversal of the take-off rolleris fed back into the electricity grid.

Grasim Industries Limited a flagship company of AdityaBirla Group has earned the U.S. Department of Agricul-ture (USDA) Certified Bio-based Product label for its prod-ucts- Birla Viscose, Birla Modal & Birla Excel. "We ap-plaud Grasim Industries Ltd. for earning the USDA Certi-fied Bio-based Product label," said Kate Lewis, USDA Bio-Preferred Program. "Products from Grasim Industries Ltd.are contributing to an ever expanding marketplace that addsvalue to renewable agriculture commodities, creates jobsin rural communities, and decreases our reliance on petro-leum."

Third-party verification for a product's bio-based contentis administered through the USDA Bio-Preferred Program.One of the goals of the Bio-Preferred Program is to in-crease the development, purchase and use of bio-basedproducts.The USDA Certified Bio-based Product label displays aproduct's bio-based content, which is the portion of a prod-uct that comes from a renewable source, such as plant,

Birla Cellulose Fibers Earn USDA Biobased Certification

animal, marine, or forestry feedstocks. Utilizing renew-able, bio-based materials displaces the need for non-re-newable petroleum based chemicals. Bio-based products,through petroleum displacement, have played an increas-ingly important role in reducing greenhouse gas emissionsthat exacerbate global climate change. Bio-based productsare cost-comparative, readily available, and perform as wellas or better than their conventional counterparts.

Speaking on the occasion Managing Director of GrasimIndustries Ltd., Mr. Dilip Gaur, said "The USDA Bio-basedcertification is another milestone reached in ourSustainability Journey& strengthening our belief thatSustainability is at the core of our business strategy."

Chief Marketing Officer of Birla Cellulose Mr. RajeevGopal further said, "This certification reconfirms the natu-ral origin of our products & will enhance the confidenceof the value chain players in delivering bio-based prod-ucts."

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Colourjet Stall

ColorJet India Ltd has created a home environment atits stall no H370 in hall 12 at the Heimtextil 2017exhibition in New Delhi. Products on displayincludedbedsheets, pillow cover, curtains, table cov-ers, etc.

The fabrics used in these applications have been printedon its recently launched TXF digital textile printer.ColorJet offeredlive demonstration of home textileprinting on applications like pillow covers, table cov-ers, bedsheets, etc on the TXF.

The ColorJet stall displayed a homely atmosphere dueto the varied and multi-coloured fabrics on display. Onshow were chairs, sofas and tables draped in colourfulfabrics printed on the TXF. Visitors to the stall seemedto be extremely delighted on seeing the colourful homeenvironment.

Digital printer producer Colorjet createshome environment at Heimtextil 2017

"We have introduced the TXF digital textile printer,primarily for home textile applications and fashiondesigners. The TXF can print on all types of fabrics,including polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon orwool," Mr. Smarth Bansal, Senior Product Manager atColorJet India Ltd said.

"This has been made possible since the printer is aptfor printing with Pigmentinkwhich opens huge avenuesfor different home textile applications," he added.

About ColorJet India Ltd:ColorJet India Ltd, the largest manufacturer of digitalinkjet printers in India markets its products in 14 coun-tries worldwide. Founded in 2004, the company main-tains its operations via two manufacturing facilitiesand sales offices spread across seven countries, whichinclude India, China, Bangladesh, UAE and Sri Lanka.To-date, ColorJet has installed and implemented over4,000 of its printing solutions and products across 315cities around the world backed by a strong 278 mem-ber team, of which almost 100 are in technical relatedfunctions.

For more information please visitwww.colorjetgroup.comPress Contacts:Arun RaoFounder

Taurus CommunicationsAhmedabad, IndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email: arun@taruruscomm.net

Smarth BansalSenior Product ManagerColorJet India LtdNoida, IndiaCell: +91 98102-39602Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

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◆ TXF most suitable for printing on home textiles◆ TXF apt for printing with all inks, whether Dis-

perse, Reactive or Pigment◆ Printer can print on all type of fabrics like poly-

ester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon and wool

TXF Di

gital Printer

After the successful launch of the ColorJet TXF digi-tal textile printer at FESPA Hamburg, Germany in May2017, ColorJet India Ltd, India's largest manufacturerof digital printers showcased the TXF at the Heimtextilexhibition which was held on June 20-22, 2017 atPragatiMaidan in New Delhi in hall 12, booth no. H370.

ColorJet showcased the live demonstration of hometextile printing on products like bedsheets, pillow cover,curtains, table covers, etc. on TXF.

ColorJet has manufactured the digital printer incorpo-rating the latest Japanese technology, which impartsthe printer with the power to print brilliantly and flaw-lessly, with reduced maintenance.

Following the launch at FESPA Hamburg, ColorJetIndia has now started shipping the TXF digital printerto printers in the European, including the UK market.

The TXF printer which is equipped with Epsonprintheads gives variable dot control for achievingsmooth gradations and is also belt driven, which makesit suitable for printing fabrics including bulky textured

materials, thinner fabrics and also stretchable fabricmaterials such as knits.

The digital printer is apt for printing with Pigmentinks which can print practically on any type of fabricincluding polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayon or wool.Pigment printing has an advantage as the fabric doesnot necessarily require pre- or post-treatment, therebysaving on production times and reducing water pollu-tion.

The TXF is also available to work with Reactive inksfor printing onto natural fabrics and also Disperse inksfor printing onto polyester fabrics.The printer offersspeeds of up to 24 square metres per hour with pig-ment Inks. The printer can achieve print resolutions ofup to 1,440dpi.

"ColorJet introduced this digital textile printer, prima-rily for home textile applications and fashion design-ers. Since the printer is apt for printing with all inks,whether Pigment, Reactive or Disperse, all types offabrics, including polyester, cotton, silk, viscose, rayonor wool can be printed which opens huge avenues fordifferent applications," Mr.Smarth Bansal, Senior Prod-uct Manager at ColorJet India Ltd informed.

For more information please visitwww.colorjetgroup.comPress Contacts:Arun RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsAhmedabad, IndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email: arun@taruruscomm.netSmarth BansalSenior Product ManagerColorJet India LtdNoida, IndiaCell: +91 98102-39602Email: smarth@colorjetgroup.com

ColorJet to Showcase Digital Textile PrinterTXF with Japanese Technology at Heimtextil

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On October 5 and 6, the Com4® yarn seminar 2017will be held in Winterthur (Switzerland). In theseminar, experts from Rieter and Uster Technolo-gies AG will impart knowledge on the day-to-daytextile activities of yarn traders and downstreamprocessors. Core focus is on the properties of theyarns and their influence on the fabrics.

Com4® yarn seminar 2016Yarn determines the characteristics of a fabric. Some-one who wants to select the most suitable yarn needsthe relevant knowledge. In the Com4® yarn seminar2017, experts from Rieter and USTER therefore pro-vide the necessary textile know-how and give insightsinto the world of yarns and fabrics.

Attractive ExpertiseRieter offers seminar participants the opportunity tonot only see the four different spinning technologies,but also to virtually experience them.

The yarns spun from them show clear differences intheir structure and the differences are also reflected inthe fabric. These correlations will become clear to the

Com4® yarn seminar 2017 -Compact Yarn Know-How

participants as soon as the samples are touched andcompared with one another.

Understanding Quality DataWhen buying yarns, it is important to know and un-derstand the determining quality data. An expert fromUSTER will give detailed information and help withtheir interpretation. As the leading manufacturer oftextile testing devices, USTER has comprehensiveknowledge and offers tools to create textile qualityprofiles.

RegistrationThe Com4® yarn seminar will be held in English.Registration is possible up to September 08, 2017under: www.rieter.com/index.php

Rieter also holds Com4® yarn seminars in China andIndia.Further information can be requested under:www.rieter.com/index.php

COM4® in BriefThe Com4® yarns satisfy the highest demands. Theirconsistently good quality ensures competitiveness in adynamic market. Thanks to mature technologies, yarnproduction in Rieter ring, compact, rotor and air-jetspinning machines achieves a high level of efficiencyand realizes an excellent yarn quality. In downstreamprocessing and in the end product, the advantages areshown, for instance, in low fiber fly, high tenacity andexcellent pilling values. The family of the Com4®yarns consists of Com4®ring, Com4®compact,Com4®rotor and Com4®jet.

On 14th to 16th September, 2017 at Bali, Indonesia

ITMF is much honored that Mrs. Sri Mulyani Indrawati,Minister of Finance, Republic of Indonesia, will de-liver a keynote address at the Opening Session of thisyear's ITMF Annual Conference.

On the second day, Mr. Jaap de Hoop Scheffer, Profes-sor of International Relations and Diplomatic Affairs,

ITMF Annual Conference 2017"Technology, Trade, Climate - Orientation in Disruptive Times"

former Secretary General of NATO and former For-eign Minister of the Netherlands, will deliver a key-note speech with the title "Technology, Trade, Cli-mate: Reshaping the Geopolitical Landscape".

The ITMF Annual Conference 2017 will be held inBali/Indonesia from September 14-16, 2017 hosted bythe Indonesian Textile Industry Association (API). Thegeneral theme of the conference "Technology, Trade,

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Climate - Orientation in Disruptive Times" indicatesthat the global textile industry is facing a variety ofchallenges resulting from changes that are often de-scribed as disruptive because their consequences arefundamentally changing the way textiles are produced,sourced, sold or bought. With a long and complicatedsupply chain the textile industry as a whole - fromfiber to retail - is required to look holistically at thesedisruptive challenges as most of them require a com-prehensive understanding and often a cooperative ap-proach to develop an efficient and sustainable supplychain. In disruptive times, a better understanding ofthe entire textile supply chain is becoming more im-portant than ever. Therefore, the ITMF Annual Con-ference is inviting experts from the entire textile valuechain. Approximately 250 participants from around theworld will attend. The conference will cover the fol-lowing areas in open general sessions:

◆ Fibers◆ Textile Supply Chain◆ Retail/E-commerce◆ Technical Textiles & Nonwovens

Since the conference will be held in Indonesia, a spe-cial focus will be on the Indonesian fibers, textile andapparel industry. In this context, ITMF is delightedthat both the Minister of Industry, Mr. Erlangga Hartartoand the Minister of Trade, Mr. Enggartiasto Lukita,will address the conference.

Furthermore, speakers from the following companiesand organizations have confirmed their participation:

◆ Asia Pacific Fibers, Indonesia◆ Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA)◆ Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants (CETI),

France◆ China National Textile & Apparel Council

(CNTAC)◆ Euromonitor, UK◆ Gherzi, Switzerland◆ Lenzing, Austria◆ PCI Wood Mackenzie, Malaysia◆ Indorama, Indonesia◆ Institute for Frontier Materials, Australia◆ International Cotton Association (ICA), UK◆ Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and

Apparel (HKRITA)◆ McKinsey, Japan◆ Alvanon, USA◆ Pan Brothers, Indonesia◆ Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg, USA◆ Sritex, Indonesia◆ Unitex, Belgium◆ 88Spares, Indonesia

Prior to the Annual Conference, ITMF offers a Semi-nar on "Cotton FR Finishing - How to Add Value" onSeptember 12th in Bali. The Seminar is conducted byProf. Marc van Parys (UNITEX, Belgium), Mr. MarcelPrinsen (Metal B.V., Netherlands) and Mr. Loek deVries (TenCate, Netherlands).

For more information about the conference and theseminar, please see:http://www.itmf.org/conferences/annual-conference-2017

On the occasion of its 125th anniversary, the VDMAhas put together a series of multimedia reports. Pub-lished on the new website https://humans-machines-progress.comthe reports show: Machines are not anend in itself for the machinery engineering industry.Regina Brückner, Vice-Chairperson of the VDMATextile Machinery Association and Managing Associ-ate of Brückner Trockentechnik, explains: "Machinesare the means to make progress come true for peopleand to meet challenges like energy, mobility, infra-structure and health. Textiles and textile machineryplay - sometimes hidden - a major role in improvingdaily life."

Textile machinery is,for example,a starting point for

Machinery and textiles for a better future

resource-efficient construction. Lightweight construc-tion materials based on knitted, woven or nonwovensfabrics enable enormous savings potential in aerospace.1,974 litres of kerosene can be saved per aircraft peryear with 20 kilograms less weight on the A320.

Infrastructure maintenance is currently time consum-ing and costly because the reinforced concrete that hasbeen used in many structures, contains steel reinforc-ing bar that can corrode, making the concrete structurecrack. Textiles offer a robust alternative by replacingsteel with carbon. Carbon concrete is durable andversatile in its uses. The carbon used to reinforceconcrete is even stronger than steel, but at the sametime much lighter and more durable since it does not

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corrode. Building elements made of carbon concretecan thus be thinner, reducing demand for raw materi-als and, as a result, energy use and CO2 emissions arecut almost by half. These materials that help maintain-ing bridges and buildings are made on warp knittingmachines, where yarn is processed into net-like coresor even three-dimensional spacer fabrics.

In medical technology, textiles play a vital part, too.The use of textile-based implants, such as stents, heartvalve replacements and artificial cartilages or tissues,is growing strongly in modern surgical techniques.Garments with integrated sensors are already commer-cially available, including T-shirts that can measurepulse, breathing and body movement.

In the working world, textiles are both ubiquitous andpractically invisible: Even in modern production sites,

workers need professional and protective clothing toprotect them from injury and safeguard against haz-ardous environments. Air conditioning is meanwhilebecoming widespread in the modern working world -even in regions with no weather extremes. Air anddust filters made of nonwovens are most of the timenot visible but they are there and help to protect staff,as well as sensitive equipment, in production plants.

The stories Materials and Health on humans-machines-progress.com show more exciting examples of mechani-cal and plant engineering being the driving force forlightweight construction and how medical textile tech-nology ensures good health and quality of life.

For any questions please contact Mr. Nicolai Strauch:Phone : +49 69-6603-1366,E-mail : nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

It is a matter of pride and honor that Department ofTextile Technology had achieved 100% placement ofits 2017 batch students, companies like Voltas,Raymond, Welspun, LNJ Bhilwara, Gujarat Ambuja,Wearit Group and TCS also. SVITS is achieving ourtarget of 100% placement for 6 consecutive years andalso successfully arranged Summer Training for Thirdyear students in renowned textile companies likeRaymond, Arvind, Welspun, and Vardhman. Add tothis we had successfully arranged 9 industrial visitsduring last academic session (2016-2017) for textilestudents (first year to final year students).

SVITS has developed strong linkage with the textileindustries, which is one of the significant ingredientsof technical education.

One month Garment Training for rural commu-nity

Department of Textile Technology has organized "one

Matter of pride ofShri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science

month free garment training for rural community" inJune 2017 to promote the self-independency in theirlife. In this year 20 girls from Baroli, Alvasa &Bhaurasla were participated .The concluding ceremonywas organized 30th June 2017 in the presence of Dr.Upindar Dhar, Hon. Vice chancellor, SVVV & ShriPrateek Rathi, CEO, Swastik Industries and Mr. A.Ghosh, Joint Registrar, SVVV and faculties & staff ofTextile Department. The participation certificates weregiven to all participated.

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Mr. SubhashBhagava conferred FSDC Status

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, a technocrat and founder ofColorant Limited,Ahmedabad,Gujarat one of the lead-ing Reactive Dyes Manufacturer of India, has beenconferred FSDC Status [Fellow of the Society of Dyers& Colorists'] by the Society of Dyers and colorists',UK., in a function held on 19th May, 2017 at York,UK. This award is considered as the highest in theworld of coloration.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava has in depth knowledge ofthe coloration and the textile industry which becamehis biggest asset. He started his career from DCMMills, Delhi in 1981. Then he joined Sales and Tech-nical Service team of ATUL Ltd., and Pidilite Indus-tries Ltd., respectively.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava, a technocrat and founder of

Mr. Subhash Bhargava admitted asFellow of SDC [UK]

Colorant Limited,Ahmedabad,Gujarat one of the lead-ing Reactive Dyes Manufacturer of India, has beenconferred FSDC Status [Fellow of the Society of Dyers& Colorists'] by the Society of Dyers and colorists',UK., in a function held on 19th May, 2017 at York,UK. This award is considered as the highest in theworld of coloration.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava has in depth knowledge of thecoloration and the textile industry which became hisbiggest asset. He started his career from DCM Mills,Delhi in 1981. Then he joined Sales and TechnicalService team of ATUL Ltd., and Pidilite IndustriesLtd., respectively.

Lastly, he was in METROCHEM as sales head. Withall these industrial experience behind him, he startedhis own dyes business in 1999 in the name of ColorantLimited, Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Within a short span oftime, Colorant has started catering to more than 650end users in India and exporting to more than 15 coun-tries. Due to his able leadership Colorant has a pres-ence of its own in the market for Quality, Consistency,Economy and Sustainability.

He is a philanthropist and statesman involving himselfwith many educational institutes and trusts etc. He isalso a speaker at different national and internationalforum. He has contributed technical and managementarticles in various journals of repute. He is an ardenttraveler, travelled to almost all Textile centers in Indiaand also to more than 52 countries in the world.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava felicitating by hands of ChiefGuest Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Mumbai

Mr.Subhash Bhargava a Technocrat and ManagingDirector of Colorant Ltd.,a leading Reactive Dyesmanufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad wasfelicitated at India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017for his contribution to the Indian Dyes industry .It wasjointly organized at Mumbai, India by The TextileAssociation (India) TAI and ECV International, Chinaorganized at in the city of Mumbai at Four SeasonsHotel on 7th & 8th of June, 2017. It had excellentresponse from the technocrats, industrialists, manufac-turers, traders, educationist from the participating from12 countries as well as local Govt. dignitaries prompted

Mr.Subhash Bhargava being felicitated atIndia & South Asia Textile Summit 2017

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the Textile Association (India) to take up the challengeof organizing the India & South Asia Textile Summit2017.

Mr. Subhash Bhargava delivering his paper

Mr. Bhargava being in the Dyes industry for morethan three decades has seen the ups and downs of thedyes industry. Under his able leadership COLORANThas being established as a brand giving stiff competi-tion to all major multinational and national dyes manu-facturers. The quality,consistency and specialty is sec-ond to none in the industry.

Mr. Bhargava delivered a very interesting presentationindicating past, present and future of Indian DyestuffIndustry. The whole narration was fantastic and audi-ence were very impressed. He also expressed there isa great future of Dyestuff Industry.

The new combing set achieves the greatest productiv-ity worldwide. The technology advantage of Rietercombing is based on the optimal interaction betweenmachine and technology components.

Confirmation of this strength, not only in the labora-tory but especially under real production conditionswith different cotton types, is Rieter s guarantee forthe customer's success. The technological resp. quali-tative and economic benefits are illustrated as follows.

E 36 OMEGAlap - the most economical combingpreparationThanks to continuous advancements, the OMEGAlapconcept could be improved. An increase in productionof 20 % to over 600 kg/h at a constant speed of up to230 m/min is the result.

With this production rate, the OMEGAlap is far supe-rior to conventional machines. The influence of theOMEGAlap on the economic performance of a comb-ing section is enormous. The high production allows a

reduction in the number of preparatory machines. Thisnoticeably reduces the number of can changes and sliverpiecing. Fewer personnel are needed.

Fig2 - Combing section with new E 36 OMEGAlap andE 86 ROBOlap comber including lap transport

system E 26 SERVOlap

As an example, the personnel requirement of a comb-ing set in a compact spinning facility with 76?000spindles was calculated. Compared to other machinemanufacturers, the personnel requirement can be re-duced by 3 persons. This is realised by the efficientcombing preparation, the SERVOlap fully automatedlap transport system and the comber including theROBOlap automated lap changing and piecing system(Figs. 1 and 2). The personnel saving for the combingpreparation machine can be up to 20 %. That reducesthe manufacturing costs by approx. USD 190?000?peryear (basis Turkey).

E 86 Comber - for better combingThe new E 86 comber features a speed increase of 10% compared to the previous model. In the short and

Rieter Combing -Technologically at the Forefront

Fig 1 - Combing section with conventional preparation,without automation

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medium staple ranges, combing can be made with 550nips per minute, and that without compromises in thecombing quality. In practice, a Rieter combing set(1?+?6) supplies a plant with approx. 25 000 compactspindles.

Higher level of cleaning for better qualityThe strength of the E 86 comber lies in a high level ofcleaning as well as excellent running performance withhigh nip rates.

Fig 3 - The E 86 comber with higher level of cleaning:fewer imperfections without affecting the fibre length and

the yarn strength

Fig5 - The E 86 with higher cleaning level: fewer trashparticles without fibre damage

The E 86 achieves fewer imperfections in the yarn(thin places, thick places, neps) at the same noil re-moval level compared to combers from other manu-facturers. The high degree of cleaning has no effectson the fibre quality. That means, the fibre length re-mains unchanged and thus the yarn tenacity at a highlevel (Fig. 3).

Furthermore, the E 86 attains an improved dust andtrash elimination of up to 20 %. The short fibre con-tent, the hairiness as well as the evenness in the yarnremain unchanged (Fig. 5).

That means, that in both examples, a higher cleaningeffect is achieved by means of stronger combing in-tensity without compromises in the combing quality.

Fig 6 - 40 % better imperfection rateFig 7 - up to 1 % noil saving at the same yarn quality

Fig 8 - 10 % higher production at the samegood yarn quality

That means, that in both examples, a higher cleaningeffect is achieved by means of stronger combing in-tensity without compromises in the combing quality.

A further example from Southeast Asia shows betteryarn quality with the E 86 compared to another manu-

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facturer. At the same production performance and thesame noil removal, the imperfections are lower by 40% (Fig. 6).

The raw material is a considerable cost factor in thespinning mill. With the E 86 noil removal can be re-duced by up to 1 % at equally good yarn quality (Fig.7). That generates cost savings of up to USD 55 000annually (example Central Asia).

The production performance also positively affects thecosts of the spinning mill. The E 86 has the potentialto achieve a 10 % higher production in comparison tothe previous model, at the same noil removal and yarnquality (Fig. 8). That corresponds to a saving in manu-facturing costs of about USD 20?000 per year andcombing set (basis Turkey).

The right technologies for an efficient combing setThe E 86 comber with its high production at simulta-

neously high quality leads the way in combing. Indi-vidual quality demands can be realised thanks to high-value technology components. The established, fully-automated ROBOlap lap changing and piecing systemis the standard for a modern combing facility. Togetherwith the unique OMEGAlap preparation, the highestproduction per set on the market is achieved.

Yvan SchwartzAuthor:Yvan SchwartzHead Product Management Combingyvan.schwartz@rieter.com

Indo American Chamber of Commerce (IACC) orga-nized a "Seminar on Indo -US Partnership in Textiles& Implication of GST" on Tuesday 18th May, 2017 atthe Garware Club House in Mumbai. The objective ofthis Session was to try and understand the opportuni-ties & challenges in doing business with USA in Tex-tiles.

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forumwelcomed the august gathering; Dr. LalitKanodia,Immediate Past President, IACC delivered Specialaddress, Dr.Kavita Gupta, Commissioner, Textiles,Govt. of India was the Guest of Honor; Mr. GregoryTaevs, Commercial Consul, US Consulate, Mumbaidelivered Special Address; Mr.Ajit B.Chavan, Secre-tary, Textiles Committee, Govt. of India deliveredKeynote Address and Mr.Arvind Sinha, President, TheTextile Association (India) gave concluding remarks.

Around 85 people attended the program consistingsenior officials from State Government, US Consulate,Corporates and Media. The audience was very enthu-siastic and raised many relevant questions to speakerand leadership.

Inaugural Session:

(From L to R): Dr. Lalit Kanodia,Immediate Past Chairman, IACC;

Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul,US Consulate, Mumbai;

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum;Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Commissioner, Textiles,

Govt. of India; Mr. Ajit Chavan, Secretary,Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India;

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum:Mr. Suresh Kotak as a Chairman of IACC Textile

Seminar ReportIndo -US Partnership in Textiles

& Implication of GST

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Forum he gave welcome address and thanked support-ing partners in taking keen interest in promoting thisinitiative to build greater synergy & symbiotic rela-tionship between two nations in promotion as well asresearch & development in textiles.

Mr. Kotak emphasized that India is the second largestproducer of textile and apparel in the world. The In-dian textile and apparel industry is expected to reachUS $ 221 billion by 2021 according to Technopak'sTextile & Apparel Compendium. India & USA arestrong partners in promotion of textile business.

There is significant transformations taking place in theIndo-US bilateral economic landscape. Bold policyinitiatives are being unveiled in India to accelerate thedevelopment process and India US can achieving in-definable business in textiles.

Dr. Lalit Kanodia, Immediate Past President, IACC:DrKanodia is Chairman & Managing Director,Datamatics Global Services Pvt Ltd, Immediate PastPresident, IACC delivered special address in the semi-nar. He congratulated Mr Suresh Kotak for taking upthis initiative and in creating a platform where stake-holders can deliberate & find out scope of cross bor-der collaboration in textiles. He mentioned that Textileis one of the oldest sector of doing business in India.The first textile business was set up by Tatas in Nagpurand thereafter there were many other players like Birlas(Century Mills), Mafatlal, Ruia, Wadia, Lalbai andPiramal. He also mentioned that Textile comes underthe basic human needs Roti, Kapada, Makan&Kapadasignifies that it's one of the basic need of human be-ing. The nation's need is to create 1 million jobs everymonth. Due to its labour intensiveness, the TextileIndustry can certainly create many of these jobs.

It is estimated that the total worldwide revenue ofTextiles is about $970 billion and from Apparel isabout$1440 billion. Combined they constitute about $2.3trillion of the global economy.

This exceeds the $1.5 trillion of the Software Industry.The global revenue of Textiles is growing at 6% p.a.and that of Apparel growing at 4% p.a.

Despite our labour competitiveness and demographicswe rank No. 5 or 6 in the world in the production ofApparels. In fact, Bangladesh and Vietnam export moreApparel than India, though I believe we are going tocatch up with them shortly. The largest producer of

Textiles and Apparel in the world is China at $300billion p.a., despite the fact that its wages are signifi-cantly higher than India. 15. I have no hesitation in mybelief that India needs to provide a thrust to the Tex-tile and Apparel Industry and increase its size. A re-cent study claims that it has the potential to grow to$400 billion p.a.

Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Con-sulate, Mumbai:Mr. Gregory Taevs, Commercial Consul, US Consu-late, Mumbai delivered Special Address in the Semi-nar on Indo US Partnership in Textiles.

He stressed on the fact by saying that U.S. - Indiabilateral relations have been described as a global stra-tegic partnership. Both the countries share democraticvalues and bilateral trade and investment. Our twoGovernments have taken steps in the last few years tobuild a strong foundation for a long-term partnership.To increase bilateral trade, both the Governments havepledged to explore new opportunities to break downbarriers to the movement of goods and services, tointegrate global supply chains, thereby creating jobsand generating prosperity in both economies.

The U. S. is the second largest trading partner of In-dia. The bilateral goods and services trade betweenthe two countries exceeded $100 billion in 2016. Bothcountries aspire to increase bilateral trade to the tuneof $500 billion annually by 2020. As Indian compa-nies continue to look for opportunities overseas, manyIndian companies are looking at U.S. as an investmentdestination.

India has emerged as one of the fastest growing sourcesof FDI into the United States. For the fifth year in arow, global business executives have named the UnitedStates as the top destination for business investment,according to A.T. Kearney's Foreign Direct Investment(FDI) Confidence Index.

He was pleased to announce about the SelectUSAInvestment Summit to be held from June 18-20, at theGaylord National Resort and Convention Center. Thisyear's theme is "Grow with US". Featuring investmentopportunities from every corner of the United Statesfor global investors. States are competing with oneanother to offer the best incentives to come to theirstates.

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The Indian textile industry is vitally important to theIndian economy. Textiles contributes significantly tothe GDP and export earnings. India is the second larg-est manufacturer and exporter in the world. The U. Salso a globally competitive manufacturer of textiles.Ranking third in global export value behind China andIndia, U.S. exports of textiles increased 39 % between2009 and 2015, to $17.6 billion.

The U.S. textile industry includes textile raw materi-als, yarns, fabrics, apparel and home furnishings, andother textile finished products. Our major strength isin cotton, manmade fibers, and a wide variety of yarnsand fabrics, including those for apparel and industrialend-uses.

Though much of the American cotton is re-exported ashome textiles from India, we understand that increas-ingly U.S. cotton is in apparel made in India for Indianconsumers.

Some of the important observations which he high-lighted are as follows:-◆ Steady growth is expected in the global technical

textiles market.◆ Manufacturing technical textiles demands specific

raw materials, machinery and equipment that arenot readily available in India. Presently, India'stechnical textile industry is based on producingcommodities that are not very R&D intensive.American companies can provide Indian compa-nies a competitive edge.

◆ India's market share in the technical textile sectoris expected to grow but it has a long way to goin order to be globally competitive in the techni-cal textile sector.

◆ U.S. exports of technical textiles to India grew at18 % last year. U.S. exports of technical textilesare projected to be worth $85 million by 2018.

Mr. Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textile Committee,Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of IndiaMr. Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee,gave a brief introduction on the background of theprogram. He said India is a major global textileeconomy with textile exports worth $40 billion. Indiaranks 4th and 5th among the top 10 textiles and cloth-ing exporting countries respectively.

India's top exports destinations are Europe and the USwith total exports touching $16.78 billion in 2016.Textiles and apparel exports are estimated to reach

USD 62 billion by 2021 from the USD 38 billion in2016. Traditionally India's key export demand is drivenby Europe and America but new markets such as Iran,Russia and South America are opening up.

The Textiles Committee of India serves textile tradeand industry by providing various services includingtesting, inspection, market research, total quality man-agement and more.The Textile Committee is rolling out a Zero Defectprogram for the textile industries to maximize profitby reducing wastes.

Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Govt.of India:Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Ministry ofTextiles was the Guest of Honor in Seminar on IndoUS Partnership in Textiles& Implication of GST. Shestressed upon the need of R&D in the textile andapparel industry, which needs to be addressed collec-tively and in time bound manner. Dr. Gupta also saidthat the Govt. of India is primarily looking out topromote technical textiles and textile machinery andto boost exports in the respective field. India & USAcan be strategic partner in promoting technical tex-tiles.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TheTextile Associa-tion (India):Mr. Arvind Sinha insisted that Global Business envi-ronment is changing and new emerging opportunities.India &US is already enjoying good business environ-ment and such conditions major joint venture canhappens where we have raw materials preparation inIndia and finishing units in USA. There are tremen-dous new global opportunities, India & US can be-come the Hub for excellent research and developmentopportunities and lot of innovations can be convertedinto the commercial ventures. Therefore this initiativeof Indo American Chamber of Commerce can reallybring very fruitful results.

Mr. Arvind Sinha also insisted that there is need forbuilding huge and high quality production facilities ifwe want large business houses with big business pos-sibilities. He also indicated that there is need for call-ing big stores such as Wal Mart, COSTCO etc. toIndia to discuss their business possibilities in India.

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Panel Discussion I: India USA Partnership and Cre-ating Road Map for Future Growth

(From L to R): Mr. Sanjeev Saran,Former Chairman, SRTEPC;

Mr. R. N. Bhaskar, Consulting, Business Editor;Mr. R. D. Udeshi,

President, Polyester, Reliance Industries Ltd;Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI

The panel discussion was very interactive and infor-mative. It was moderated by Mr. R. N.Bhaskar, Con-sulting, Business Editor. The esteemed panelist wereMr. R. D.Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, RelianceIndustries Ltd; Mr.Sanjeev Saran,

Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President, Polyester Chain, Reli-ance Industries Ltd:Mr. R. D.Udeshi, President (Polyester Chain), Reli-ance Industries Ltd in his special address said that thegrowth of manmade textiles is playing an importantrole in the textile industry.

He said, since Govt of India is aiming to grow the sizeof Indian Textile & Apparel industry from USD 110billion to USD 400 billion, the input for such sizefrom Man Made Fiber will also multiply and hencerequired immediate attention on its development ascotton only may not be able to fulfill that demand. Healso emphasized by saying that Government shouldhelp the textile industry in bringing fiber neutralitypolicy to abolish differential tax system for cotton andman-made fibres.

He said that China is the world leader in exports oftextiles as it enjoys competitive advantage in terms oflow cost of production, quality and the cost of poweris extremely low as compared to any other countries.He also referred many other areas such as:

◆ Major concerns for Textile industry are volatileprices, low profitability, rising costs, supply in-consistency, sourcing reliability; Competitiveprices and low volatility render polyester as atool to battle price fluctuations

◆ Application variability and diversity facilitates useof polyester in many niche applications

◆ Easy scalability and competitive investments as-sure polyester as a fiber for future needs

◆ India forms an attractive destination for down-stream investments, with raw material security,domestic demand, strong logistics, product de-velopment and strong finance & legal system

Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Former Chairman, SyntheticRayon and Textiles Export Promotion Council:Mr. Sanjeev Saran shared lot of his experience for lastfew decades, he also suggested that business environ-ment has considerably changed in India, there is afocus on quality innovation, supply chain etc. but thereis a need for improving the volumes, creating highproduction capacities, political environment is veryfavorable for business and great initiative by Govern-ment of India to improve business relations and oppor-tunities.

Panel Discussion II: Implication of GST on Textiles

(From L to R): Mr. ArvindBhansali, VP,Indirect Taxation, Reliance Industries Ltd;

Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI;Ms. NidhiMarwaha, Asst.VP, ICRA Limited

Mr. Arvind Bhansali, VP Indirect Taxation, Reli-ance Industries Ltd:He is one of the most sought after speaker on indirecttaxation particularly GST Code. His insights on thenew GST policy and its implication on Textiles wasreally helpful for the Textile Industry.

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He referred to the following points while touchingupon GST:◆ Increase in the effective tax rate may have nega-

tive impact on the pricing of Textiles.◆ GST on textiles will remove existing tax strand-

ing of inputs / input services / capital goods.◆ Taxes paid on purchase and installation of capital

asset and equipment can be claimed as ITC. Thiswill encourage up-gradation and expansion of theTextile Industries with latest improved technolo-gies.

◆ Compliance cost in the GST regime will be gen-erally lower due to fewer taxes. However, textilesector being outside GST at present will facecompliance burden.

◆ Fiscal barriers will be removed for the movementof Textile inputs and outputs from one State toanother.

◆ Under GST, all kinds of Fiber will be treated inthe same way. There is no discrimination likelybetween cotton fiber and man-made fiber in theGST Structure.

◆ Job work activity under GST will be consideredas service, composition scheme would not beavailable and tedious procedural aspects need tobe complied with.

◆ Credit will be available subject to matching/veri-fication with returns filed and payments made by

the supplier of goods or services.

Ms Nidhi Marwaha, Asst. Vice President, ICRALimited◆ Textile Sector - Current situation◆ India - 6th largest apparel exporting nation, after

China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Italy and Germany◆ Export of raw cotton and other intermediaries such

as yarn and fabrics, accounts for ~27% of India'stotal textile exports - Points towards scope forfurther value-addition in the country

◆ Potential Roadblocks - Some of the potential roadblocks include fragmented nature of the industry,higher capacities in the upstream sectors, region-ally-dispersed value chain , high focus on cotton,range-bound cotton production vis-à-vis fasterpace of growth in demand

◆ Opportunities to capitalise on◆ Decline in China's apparel exports in the past two

years◆ Fast growing domestic market◆ Scope for investments in the down-stream sectors

and increasing share of value-add products inIndia's exports

◆ Way Forward◆ Attract investments, benefit from scale, capitalize

on strengths and diversify into geographies andproduct offerings

It all started as three pages in the German textilemagazine Melliand in 1957. Today, the global bench-marks known as USTER®STATISTICS have legend-ary status throughout the industry as an objectivemeasure of quality. This article marks the 60th anni-versary of USTER®STATISTICS - 6 decades of aunique and free benchmarking service for the textilefield. Their development over the decades provides areliable monitor of how quality demands in textileshave increased. For example, a typical yarn with a50% quality rating back in 1964 would need to regis-ter much better evenness to reach the same level halfa century later. This comparison is made usingUSTER®STATISTICS Percentiles for comparing thequality of spinning mills worldwide. Looking ahead,the ongoing expansion of USTER®STATISTICS willcontinue with the inclusion of many more qualityparameters such as Hairiness Length Classification inthe 2018 edition.

USTER - A remarkable increase inquality expectations worldwide

Spinners themselves were behind the origins ofUSTER®STATISTICS in the 1950s, as they saw thebenefit of benchmarking their yarn quality againstcompetitors in other mills. USTER had earlier intro-duced the first yarn evenness tester in 1948, and wastherefore an obvious choice to answer the spinners'request. This led to the publication of the so-calledUSTER®STANDARDS, the forerunner ofUSTER®STATISTICS, which listed only unevennessdata as U% and CV figures for carded and combedyarn.

From cotton to blendsEvenness remains one of the essential quality stan-dards for the industry today - although the number ofother yarn parameters now measured has grown overtime, in line with the launch of further USTER® in-struments for yarn quality improvement. By 1997, stan-dards for fibers were added, based on the

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USTER®AFIS. The statistical data has also becomemuch more comprehensive, extending to take in a widerrange of fiber materials, including wool, viscose, poly-ester and even blends.

In 1957, USTER®STANDARDS included just threequality parameters, contained in two chapters acrossonly six pages, including six graphs. The latest 2013edition of USTER®STATISTICS covers 101 qualityparameters in 123 chapters, using over 2,500 graphs."The standards are far more than figures to compareyarn quality around the world," says Gabriela Peters,Product Manager Yarn Testing within Uster Technolo-gies. "USTER®STATISTICS have become a commonlanguage of quality foryarn producers and yarn users."

The famous red lines…USTER®STATISTICS Percentiles (USP) were intro-duced in 1965 - and today everybody in the industryrecognizes the familiar red lines, indicating values fora 5%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 95% standard. The USPfigure is a rating for a particular parameter, based oncomparisons with the quality level being produced bymills worldwide.

Today yarns are often spot-market internet purchases.Missing specifications based upon objective values leadto a serious deterioration in the quality of garments orother textile products that is why also leading yarntraders insist on clear specifications for yarns andUSTER® STATISTICS offer the references. The fa-mous red lines show their relevance along the textilevalue chain. USTER®STATISTICS actually bridgesthe gap between yarn producers and yarn users, en-abling them to talk about quality in a way that isunderstood by all.

The change in evenness

USTER® STANDARDS published in 1957

Graph showing long-term development of yarn evennessfrom 1964 to 2013

USTER® STATISTICS graph for yarn evenness, 100%cotton, carded

Standards for evenness testing have been available for60 years and it is interesting to note how much thevalues behind this standard have improved. The even-ness of yarns has become better and better over thelong term (see graph). Taking a typical ring-spun yarnof 100% combed cotton, 20 tex (Ne 30), a USP ratingof 50% could be achieved in 1964 with a CVm of15.2. To be at the same level, a similar yarn in 2013would have required a CVm value of 12.6 (shown bythe red line in the graph).

Sample A -Fabric from yarn rated at USP 50% value in 1964

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Sample B -Fabric from yarn rated at USP 50% value

under 2013 standards

This changing requirement is clearly shown by com-paring fabrics made from yarn with these parameters(see photos). Sample A, with a USP 50% value forCVm in 1964, exhibits a much more 'cloudy' appear-ance than Sample B, which would have rated a USPvalue of 50% for CVm 49 years later. The fabric inSample A demonstrates that the yarn used would beregarded as much less acceptable under today's in-creased quality expectations.

This trend underscores the fact that customers over theyears have become more and more demanding aboutyarn evenness, in tandem with the quality improve-ments made possible by the technological progress inspinning machinery. At the same time, the evennesstesting instrument has become much more sophisti-cated - with advanced technology and sensors nowproviding the most accurate testing results. With theessential support of USTER®STATISTICS as a toolfor daily testing routines, the latest-generationUSTER®TESTER 6 is the ultimate in user-friendly

and intelligent quality assurance. Its integration of alltest data enables the automatic production of qualityreports with a clear presentation of the USP values.

The one and onlyWhat makes USTER®STATISTICS unique is the factthat no other company has attempted to establish itsown system of collating and publishing textile qualitystandards. The Statistics will be continuously devel-oped in the future - with an important addition alreadyplanned for the next edition in 2018 to include hairi-ness length values measured by the new HL sensors,launched with USTER®TESTER 6.

The entire textile chain - yarn producers, their custom-ers downstream, as well as traders and machine manu-facturers - acknowledge that USTER®STATISTICS hasplayed a key part in establishing the USTER name asa synonym for quality standards in the textile industry."I congratulate Uster Technologies on the 60th anni-versary of USTER® STATISTICS and I pay tribute tothe company's achievements in setting the standardswe all use in our routines," says S.P. Oswal, Chair-man, Vardhaman Textiles Ltd. Literally,USTER®STATISTICS are the only way to compareyarn quality objectively - and the textile industry candepend on their continued assistance for the next 60years and beyond.

Media contact:Edith AepliSenior Manager Marketing & CommunicationUster Technologies AGSonnenbergstrasse 10CH - 8610 Uster / SwitzerlandDirect +41 43 366 38 80Mobile +41 79 916 02 91, Fax +41 43 366 39 58E-mail publicrelation@uster.com

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Please call on following

Numbers for booking advertisement in

& Website

www.textileassociationindia.org

Tel.: 022-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922

e-mail: taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com

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The Algerian EPE-EATIT-SPA group, with a historydating back to the year 1984 and many re-organiza-tions has today seven sites and covers a large range oftextiles from garments to home textiles, professionalclothes and technical textiles. Recently EATIT bought52 DORNIER looms to produce woven fabric made ofpolyamide and cotton for the domestic market.

Layout of the BRÜCKNER line

In the frame of these optimization the old lines of thefinishing and coating division have been replaced bynew lines in order to carry this improved productionstandard with modern equipment forward into thisimportant step of the production, too.

The Management decided to follow this direction con-sequently and ordered a coating and laminating linefrom the only remaining German producer of textilemachinery, BRÜCKNER.

View of the roller accumulator and the coating andlaminating line

Algerian textile producers on the upswing

Paste coating unit

The heart of the line is a 6-compartment stenter witha working width of 2.40 m, providing with itsalternatingly arranged and patented splitflow technol-ogy for the temperature uniformity which is a prereq-uisite for the coating and laminating processes.

Film laminating unit in the exit

The line is designed for a high production speed. Toallow a production without interruptions there is aroller-type fabric accumulator with high fabric con-tents directly behind the unwinding unit for raw fab-ric.

A padder and a ZIMMER coating unit and a laminat-ing calender at the exit allow the owner to apply amultitude of different applications onto his article.Among other things it is possible to makefunctionalizations, paste or foam coating and laminat-ing with films or textile bonding.

Thus, EATIT is in the position to make on the newBRÜCKNER coating and laminating line all productsrequired by its market and the company has made animportant step to offer also in future competitive andinnovative textiles.

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Texttreasure

Knowledge can be got in one way, the way isexperience; there is no other way to know."

- Swami Vivekananda

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◆ Aurajet can runlow GSM paper starting from 45GSM, thus bringing down production cost

◆ Aurajet achieves maximum speed of 34 sq. metres◆ Helps in reducing cost by using less ink and of-

fers perfect colours

AuraJet II Dye Sub Machine

India's biggest wide format digital printer and also awinner of several awards in the last few months,ColorJet India Ltd is launching the Aurajet dye subli-mation textile printer at the upcoming textile technol-ogy trade show Gartex 2017, which runs from July 29-31, 2017 in hall no. 14, stall no. 75. Alongside, Colorjetwill also showcase the recently launched TXF digitaltextile printer along with its bestselling model, theVastrajet.

The Made-in-India Aurajet, which is running success-fully in Australia, Sri Lanka, Saudi Arabia and otherparts of world, is the perfect choice for dye sublima-tion users as it can easily run low GSM paper startingfrom 45 GSM which will help in reducing the cost byusing less ink and offering perfect colours.

The sturdy industrial built of the Aurajet helps inensuring that the machine runs for years and years,while achieving maximum speed of 34 sq. metres,thereby providing huge production runs. It comeswithadvanced feed and a take-up system for precise papermovement. The Aurajet is bundled with COLORGATERIP to give vibrant colours and also comes with new

CB100 inks, for best results in sportswear, apparel andhome furnishing applications.

ColorJet is also showing its tech loaded digital textileprinter, the TXF, which has been manufactured incor-porating the latest technology, which imparts the printerwith the power to print brilliantly and flawlessly, withreduced maintenance. The printer can achieve printresolutions of up to 1,440dpi and is best suited whenit comes to sampling and short runs, particularly suit-able for fashion designers and home textiles applica-tions. TXF is available to work with Reactive inks forprinting onto natural fabrics and also Disperse inks forprinting onto polyester fabrics.

The TXF printer which is equipped withindustrialprintheadsgivesvariable dot control for achiev-ing smooth gradations and is also belt driven, whichmakes it suitable for printing fabrics includingbulkytextured materials, thinner fabrics and also stretch-able fabric materials such as knits.

The state-of-the-art and efficiently engineered Vastrajetprinter is a commercial grade entry level digital textileprinter, which meets the normal daily requirements ofa textile printing house, while being suitable for avariety of fabrics like cotton, silk, wool, polyester andtheir blends, including for stretchable and normal fab-rics.

The structure of the Vastrajet is excellently designedto handle high speed production and precise dot place-ments, while the proprietary AIVC technology ensureshigh precision printing. The high speed is achievedthrough specially designed jetting controls to optimizeprintheads performance, to match the high jetting fre-quency.

For more information please:Media Contacts:Arun RaoFounderTaurus CommunicationsAhmedabad, IndiaCell: +91 98250-38518 / 91575-07938Email: arun@taruruscomm.netwww.colorjetgroup.com

ColorJet India to launch dye sublimationtextile printerAurajet at Gartex 2017

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Programs published and online registration is openfor "German Technology meets US and MexicanTextile", November 2017.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association has justpublished demanding and comprehensive programs ofits B2B Forums & Conferences, which will be held inCharlotte (NC) and Mexico City in November. Theprograms are available at www.germantech-ustextile.deand www.germantech-mextextile.de. Industry expertsfrom the VDMA member companies will present prac-tice-oriented technology topics to decision makers fromthe local textile industries.

German Technology meets US TextileFor the conference in Charlotte, taking place on No-vember 6 at the Sheraton Charlotte Hotel, three paral-lel sessions are scheduled: Textile Machinery andcomponents for the …… fiber and yarn industry.… nonwovens and technical textiles industry.… apparel, home textile & carpet industry.

The sessions will feature application-oriented technol-ogy presentations from the following 25 VDMA mem-ber companies:

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, ANDRITZ Kuesters,Autefa Solutions, Brueckner Textile Technologies,DILO Systems + TEMAFA, Lindauer DORNIER,Erhardt + Leimer, GROZ-BECKERT, Interspare,KÖRTING HANNOVER, MAHLO, Karl Mayer,Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, PLEVA, Reseda Binder,Georg Sahm, Saurer Components (Saurer Temco), SedoTreepoint, Textechno Herbert Stein, Thies, Truetzschler,Welker Vakuum, Oerlikon Textile (Barmag andNeumag).

German Technology meets Mexican TextileThe program in Mexico City will cover two days,November 8 and 9. Location is the Hilton Mexico CitySanta Fe. Content scheduled for 8 November is:◆ Textile machinery and components for the ap-

parel and home textile industry.On November 9, there will be two parallel topics:

◆ Textile machinery and components for the fiberand yarn industry.

German Technology meets USand Mexican Textile

◆ Textile machinery and components for thenonwovens and technical textiles industry.

The following 29 VDMA member companies willpresent their latest technologies for the benefit of theMexican textile industry:

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, Allma VolkmannZweigniederlassung der Saurer Germany, ANDRITZAsselin-Thibeau, Autefa Solutions Germany, BruecknerTextile Technologies, DILO Systems + Temafa,Erhardt+Leimer, Groz-Beckert, Georg Sahm, Interspare,Jakob Mueller, Körting Hannover, Mahlo, Mayer&Cie.,Karl Mayer, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, OerlikonTextile (Barmag + Neumag), PLEVA, Reseda Binder,Saurer Components GmbH Branch Hammelburg,Schlafhorst branch of Saurer Germany, Sedo Treepoint,SETEX Schermuly textile computer, Textechno HerbertStein, Thies, Truetzschler, Welker Vakuum.

Interested decision makers (e. g. Technical Manage-ment, Production Managers, Quality and MaintenanceManagers, Mill Owners) from the textile, nonwovenand carpet manufacturing industries along the entiretextile chain are requested to register under these links:www.germantech-ustextile.dewww.germantech-mextextile.de

Each registrant will be checked and approved. A fewweeks prior to the events, the approved registrants willbe able to pre-arrange B2B meetings with the expertsfrom the participating VDMA member companies, theirsubsidiaries and agents via the above-mentionedwebsites. There is no registration fee for visitors.

Whereas, these events will focus on customers, thetraining session at the InstitutoPolitécnicoNacional(Escuela Superior de IngenieríaTextil) in Mexico Cityon 10 November 2017 will focus on future engineers.

For any questions please contact:Mr. Nicolai StrauchPhone: +49 69-6603-1366,e-mail: nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

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R to L: Mr. Sandeep Kataria, Country Manager,Bata India, being welcomed by Mr. RajeevGopalakrishnan, President - Asia South_2

European footwear major's Indian subsidiary, Bata Indiaannounced the appointment of Sandeep Kataria as theCountry Manager for the India sub-continent as onAug 01, 2017. Sandeep joins from his last assignmentas Chief Commercial Officer at Vodafone India, andhe will be based in Gurgaon.

A Business Leader, Sandeep has over 2 decades in theconsumer industry, covering design and deployment ofbusiness strategy, brand management and sales &marketing leadership across the developing and devel-oped markets. Having held roles ranging from RegionalSales manager to Global Brand Director in Unileverand from Chief Marketing Officer to Chief ExecutiveOfficer in Yum! Brands, Sandeep now has his role cut-out to grow Bata India from strength to strength.

He will be reporting into Mr. Rajeev Gopalakrishnan,who has been elevated as President of Asia South,

Sandeep Kataria joins Bata India as CountryManager & Rajeev Gopalakrishnan

elevated to President, Asia South rolebased in Singapore, with a broader perimeter encom-passing: India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Indonesia,Australia & New Zealand. This development is in linewith Bata India's growth trajectory which picked upsignificant momentum under Mr. Gopalakrishnan. Hehas indeed been pivotal in driving the product, brand,retail and manufacturing levers of the business. A clearreflection of past few years trajectory has been Bata'sshare price almost tripling in the last 6 years from avalue of INR 196 per share in Apr 2011 to INR 584per share as on date and wining several awards includ-ing the most admired Retail footwear brand in Indiaby Brand Equity, Images Retail, Dun & Bradstreet.

Speaking on the appointment, Mr. RajeevGopalakrishnan, President, Asia South, Bata said "Iam confident that Sandeep will play a critical role incontinuing to build Bata as a contemporary and stylishbrand, keeping in mind the changing consumer trendin India and will drive the company to achieve theaccelerated growth plan."

Sandeep holds a Bachelor of Technology degree(Chemical Engineering) from the Indian Institute ofTechnology, Delhi, and a Post-Graduate Diploma inBusiness Management from XLRI, Jamshedpur. He haslived and worked in India (Delhi and Mumbai) andUK (London).

Mr. Sandeep Kataria, Country Manager, Bata Indiasaid," I am very excited for the opportunity to leadBata in India - a very strong, trusted and admired brandwith immense potential to grow rapidly. My associa-tion with Bata goes back to my teenage days when Iused to spend my summer vacations in my grandfather'sshoe business in Agra. I look forward to helping totake the business to greater heights across many chan-nels, consumer segments and geographies."

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Launch your new productsand services

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After starting in a small workshop in 1892, Stäublihas developed into a leading industrial partner forhigh-quality mechatronic solutions and technologies.With three dedicated activities - Connectors, Ro-botics and Textile - Stäubli is valued by industrialcustomers worldwide for its high-quality productsand cutting-edge technologies.

Two family threads came together at the end of the19th century - the heyday of the Swiss textile industry- and were woven into a new corporate fabric: RudolphSchelling and Hermann Stäubli, displaying both com-mercial acumen and technical skill, founded the com-pany "Schelling &Stäubli" in the Swiss village ofHorgen in 1892. At that time, this village on the shoresof Lake Zurich - and on the Silk Road as well - wasthe site of many mills operating a total of some 1,000weaving machines.

Hermann Stäubli had acquired his initial know-how byrepairing these machines. After a short time, he set outto produce superior machinery. His credo from thestart was the highest quality and a pronounced cus-tomer focus. He sought no less than to make the world'sbest dobbies - with which weaving mills could achieveoptimal results. Even in those early days, Stäubli setvery high targets for efficient production; specifically,to weave more fabrics at lower cost, higher quality,and with a greater variety of patterns.

Already in 1893, Schelling &Stäubli introduced theirfirst dobby, designed and constructed in house. In 1900they introduced the world's first paper-card dobby,equipped with a warp-leasing system that is still widelyused today. Following the death of Rudolph Schellingin 1909, the company was renamed Stäubli.

Geographical spread and portfolio expansionThe Stäubli Group has grown exuberantly since 1892,

Stäubli Anniversary - Quality and innovationas a driving force for 125 years

in both technical and geographic terms. Already in1909 Stäubli built its first factory in France, followedby additional production sites in other European coun-tries as well as in the Americas and China.

The Group's Textile activities have grown in line withits corporate targets, and Stäubli has become a leadingsupplier to the global weaving industry. In 1969 Stäubliacquired the German company Trumpelt, whichspecialised in heavy dobbies. As a shedding solutionspecialist in frame weaving, the company then decidedto expand its range to include Jacquard weaving. Thisled to the acquisition of Verdolin Lyon, a manufac-turer of mechanical Jacquard machines. And to ex-pand its product range to cover the complete weavingprocess, the companies Zellweger (weaving prepara-tion solutions) and Schönherr (carpet weaving systems)were purchased in 1994 and 1998. Finally, the DEIMOCompany was acquired, a long-time industry partnerproviding drive and control systems for a wide rangeof applications.

This expansion strategy has been constantly augmentedby intensive R&D activities, and today the result canbe seen in a comprehensive range of high-performanceproducts integrating state-of-the-art technologies. Thismachinery is renowned for exceptional reliability,unsurpassed production speeds, and very long servicelife. SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines, the latestgeneration of S3000/S3200 dobbies, the LX/LXL elec-tronic Jacquard machines, ALPHA carpet weavingsystems, the TF technical weaving systems, andDEIMO knitting solutions all attest to continuity anda passion for innovation, which is embedded in theDNA of the company.+

Excellence means constant improvement and de-velopment in all areas"The spirit of innovation has defined our companyfrom the beginning - it's rooted deeply in the nature ofStäubli", says Rolf Strebel, Stäubli CEO. "It's the rea-son we constantly develop new solutions which addvalue for our customers. Other decisive factors for ourlong-term success are the spirit of cohesion amongstour staff around the globe, our inquisitiveness, and ourphilosophy of continuous improvement. Our aspira-tion is to constantly improve - on a human, profes-sional, and technical level - and to remain just as suc-cessful during the next 125 years."

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Stäubli - 125 years of passion for innovationTechnological advancements and visionary ideas haveformed a company that is poised to operate as success-fully in the new millennium as it did at the end of the19th century.Today Stäubli is a mechatronics solutionsprovider with three dedicated activities: Connectors,Robotics and Textile. With a global workforce of over4,500, the company generates an annual turnover of1.1 billion Swiss francs. Founded in 1892, today Stäubli

is an international group headquartered in Pfäffikon,Switzerland.

For more information please contact:Stäubli International AGTextile CommunicationNadine Dairain, textile press relation executivePhone: +33 450 64 31 68E-mail: n.dairain@staubli.com

NEWS

Grasim Industries Limited a flagship company of AdityaBirla Group has earned the U.S. Department of Agri-culture (USDA) Certified Bio-based Product label forits products- Birla Viscose, Birla Modal & Birla Ex-cel. "We applaud Grasim Industries Ltd. for earningthe USDA Certified Bio-based Product label," said KateLewis, USDA Bio-Preferred Program. "Products fromGrasim Industries Ltd. are contributing to an everexpanding marketplace that adds value to renewableagriculture commodities, creates jobs in rural commu-nities, and decreases our reliance on petroleum."

Third-party verification for a product's bio-based con-tent is administered through the USDA Bio-PreferredProgram. One of the goals of the Bio-Preferred Pro-gram is to increase the development, purchase and useof bio-based products.

The USDA Certified Bio-based Product label displaysa product's bio-based content, which is the portion ofa product that comes from a renewable source, such as

Birla Cellulose Fibers EarnUSDA Biobased Certification

plant, animal, marine, or forestry feedstocks. Utilizingrenewable, bio-based materials displaces the need fornon-renewable petroleum based chemicals. Bio-basedproducts, through petroleum displacement, have playedan increasingly important role in reducing greenhousegas emissions that exacerbate global climate change.Bio-based products are cost-comparative, readily avail-able, and perform as well as or better than their con-ventional counterparts.

Speaking on the occasion Managing Director of GrasimIndustries Ltd., Mr. Dilip Gaur, said "The USDA Bio-based certification is another milestone reached in ourSustainability Journey& strengthening our belief thatSustainability is at the core of our business strategy."

Chief Marketing Officer of Birla Cellulose Mr. RajeevGopal further said, "This certification reconfirms thenatural origin of our products & will enhance theconfidence of the value chain players in deliveringbio-based products."

Birla Cellulose's Vilayat Unit in Gujarat received theFSC C-o-C certification. The assessment was done bythird party SGS India, world's leading inspection, veri-fication, testing & Certification Company. Post thesuccessful completion of the assessment the FSC C-o-C certification was awarded recently. Vilayat is BirlaCellulose's fourth fibre unit to get this certification.

Forestry mechanism is a mechanism using indepen-dent assurance that the forest is managed according tointernationally recognized sustainability criteria. TheForest Stewardship Council (FSCTM), Programme forthe Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFCTM)and Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI) are some ofinternational systems for forest certifications. Chain of

Birla Cellulose's Vilayat Unit gets FSC C-o-C CertificationCustody (C-o-C) certification is a way of trackingwood-based raw materials from the forest to the con-sumer, at each stage in ownership.

Birla Cellulose's other fibre Units which have FSC C-o-C Certification are Kharach Unit in Gujarat, PT IndoBharat Rayon in Indonesia & Birla JingweiFibre Com-pany in China. All the Pulp Units of Birla Celluloseare certified for one of these key certifications i.e. SFI,FSC C-o-C & PEFC and now four of the Fibre Unitsare FSC C-o-C certified.

"FSC certification is an important step and in line withour Wood Sourcing Policy to procure raw materialfrom certified sources," Managing Director of Grasim

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Industries Ltd, Dilip Gaur, said. "We are also one ofthe first cellulose fiber producers to complete aCanopyStyle audit conducted by Rainforest Alliancewhich confirms Birla Cellulose fibre supply chains are

low risk for sourcing from ancient and endangeredforests or other controversial sources. FSC C-o-C isanother milestone in our Sustainability Journey," headded.

CHINA MACHINEX INDIA 2017 and CHINAHOMELIFE INDIA 2017 is the largest China Sourc-ing B2B Exhibition in India, which is a part of theglobal series of exhibitions taking place annually in 11countries, viz, Poland, Egypt, Brazil, UAE (Dubai),South Africa, India, Kazakhstan, Turkey, Jordan, Iranand Mexico.This Exhibition is being organized jointlyby the state government of regions of Hangzhou,Ningbo, Shanghai, and Wenzhou in China.

This exhibition is conducted successfully from past 4years and this year is the 5th edition.

The exhibition has seen some tremendous response inthe years and the number of visitors has gone from afew thousands to a whopping 15,500 visitors and alsothe number of Exhibitors has gone up from a fewhundred to a huge 1500 + Exhibitors.

China Machinex India 2017 and China HomelifeIndia 2017 Exhibition

We have over 1000 of the topmost Chinese companieswhich visited India in the last year's edition, of whichwe had around 150 exhibitors for Textile & Garmentslike Woven, ready to were brands, accessories, bags,home textile, commercial textile jackets, Sportswearand High quality Suits, Industrial textile participatingin our Show.

The Chinese exhibitors had displayed the most ad-vanced Machines for the same. We had a lot ofB2Bcustomers who visited the Stalls and found it veryhelpful for their business there were also a lot of busi-ness deals closed at the exhibition centre. This yearalso we have requested the Exhibition Organizers inChina to get the most advanced machinery in Textilesector. We have started online portal www.chinahomelife247.com & www.chinamachinex247.comfor pre-booking of your desired samples.

The organizers have assured participation of the samefor 2017 edition as well.The 2016 edition saw 15,500 Business Visitors andfor the 2017 edition we expect to cross more the 20,000Quality B2B Visitors to come for the show.+

This Year our exhibition starts from 5th to 7th Decem-ber, 2017 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon.Mumbai. Pre-register to visit at www.chlmx.com.

Community projects support core pillars ofsustainabilitySingapore, 4 August 2017 -- Empowering employee-led teams to organize activities in their neighborhood,Huntsman Textile Effects is helping make local com-munities more sustainable. The company, which hasoperations around the world, seeks to make a differ-ence through social, environmental and economicsustainability projects."I am proud that associates across Textile Effects workclosely together with their local communities to makea vibrant world possible today and for future genera-

tions," said Rohit Aggarwal, President,Huntsman Tex-tile Effects. "From community programs promotingeducation and local enterprise to environmental initia-tives such as recycling waste, beach cleaning and treeplanting, we're making positive and lasting contribu-tions to the communities in which we operate."

Huntsman projects are designed by local employees tomeet the needs of the communities in which we oper-ate, in line with the core pillars of sustainability: people,planet, profit.

Huntsman Textile Effects empowers employeesto make a difference

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Social sustainability in actionIn Fraijanes, Guatemala, the 37-stong Huntsman teamhas supported HogarNiños de Fatima, a local children'shome, and AYUVI, a charity that provides free treat-ment to children with cancer. For example, the teamand local contractors contributed a significant numberof hours supporting these two worthy organizations in2016. This included collecting more than 290 kg ofpaper, 10 kg of packaging and 40 kg of plastic bottlecaps in recycling-based fundraisers.

In Gandaria, Indonesia, the Huntsman Textile Effectsteam donated air-conditioners to local mosques, whichare important centers of community life in the area.

Huntsman Textile Effects runs the award-winningAnandi program in Baroda, in India's Gujarat state.The program mobilizes staff volunteers and companyfunding in support of community projects focused oneducation, health, water and sanitation and animalhusbandry. Recent education-sector activities have in-cluded a sports day for 500 children, a 10-day summercamp, and the distribution of 6,000 notebooks, 2,000schoolbags and other school supplies. The team alsosupports village-based computer education and life-skills training for teens.

Environmental initiativesSince the textiles sector is a major global user of freshwater, water conservation is a key focus area for Hunts-man Textile Effects. The Baroda team recently installeda 500 KL underground water tank to store water andmeet the needs of more than 3,500 people in Luna, avillage near to the Textile Effects plant. The projectwas operated on a Public-Private-Partnership model,in close cooperation with villagers and local adminis-trators, and took close to two years to complete.

In Atotonilquillo, Mexico, the Huntsman team contin-ues to focus on recycling. It recently donated 150 re-cycling containers to local schools to encourage sort-ing and recycling of waste. It is also working withthree schools in the Miraflores and Atotonilquillo vil-lages to collect used batteries for recycling and safedisposal. More than 180kilograms of used batterieswere collected from the schools over a 12-week periodand will be sent to a certified external provider forproper disposal. Battery recycling has been an ongo-ing program by the Huntsman team in Atotonilquillo.Huntsman also regularly holds tree-planting days. AtMahachai in Thailand, 90 employees recently plantedmore than 80 pine trees at the manufacturing site. Inaddition to providing shade and other environmentalbenefits, the trees will also serve as a protective bar-

rier to reduce noise and dust for the benefit ofHuntsman's neighbors. This is a first phase of treeplanting activities as part of a longer-term plan to builda small park on-site for associates.

In Singapore, 50 Huntsman associates and their familymembers conducted a beach clean-up activity, work-ing on stretch of Singapore's eastern shoreline andcollectively gathered more than 20 bags of litter andrubbish that has washed ashore. The event marked theUnited Nations Environment Program's World Envi-ronment Day which is held annually on June 6 to raiseawareness on environmental issues.

Grassroots economic sustainabilityHuntsman Textile Effects' Anandi program, which isrun by its Baroda team, helps nurture the local economythrough an animal husbandry program, one of the fo-cus areas under the initiative. It provides training andinformation on best practices to help local dairy farm-ers improve the yield and quality of milk from dairybuffaloes. Some 65 families from Umraya and 60 fami-lies from Luna benefit from the ongoing initiative.

Baroda also supports local adolescent girls throughinnovative vocational programs that aim to inspire themas entrepreneurs. Thirty-eight girls from Umraya re-cently completed a two-month healthcare course, while30 joined a three-month course on embroidery work.

In the context of the wider industry community, Hunts-man supports mills and brands to sustain their com-petitiveness, with innovative products and processesthat help them conserve resources and reduce wastewhile meeting demand for high-performance, eco-friendly textile products. To remind staff of the valueof their efforts, the Huntsman Langweid facility inGermany held an event for 150 employees. The site'senergy-saving and waste-reduction programs were high-lighted, along with customer success stories."At Hunts-man Textile Effects, we believe that small local ac-tions can bring about extraordinary global change whenwe all work together. Our approach to sustainabilityspans people, planet and profit and relies on innova-tion and collaboration," Mr. Aggarwal continued. "Weare proud of the community efforts of our caringemployees, and we will continue to support them inthese efforts around the world."

Media Contacts:Christina Koh +65 6390 6482christina_koh@huntsman.com / Monique Mathieu +65 6390 6442monique_mathieu@huntsman.com / Website: www.huntsman.com,www.huntsman.com/textile_effects

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25% of space snapped up within first six weeks oflaunch

ITMA 2019

ITMA 2019, the world's largest textile and garmenttechnology, has received strong response since onlineapplications opened in May this year. Some 25% ofthe exhibition space has been booked by more than300 exhibitors during the first six weeks, according toITMA Services, the organizer of ITMA 2019.

Mr. A.E. Roberts, Managing Director of ITMA Ser-vices, attributed the strong demand to the success ofITMA 2015 and the rapid technological developmentswithin the textile and garment industry. He said, "Weare delighted with this excellent response. The totalspace booked to-date is an impressive 150% increasewhen compared with the same period of ITMA 2015'sapplication launch."

He added, "ITMA has an excellent reputation and manyglobal industry players are looking forward to using itas a launch pad for their new innovations. Among thesectors that have enjoyed the greatest take-up so farare finishing, printing, spinning, weaving and knitting,and we are particularly pleased with the strong re-sponse from Asian countries, particularly India whichhas already surpassed 60% of the total space it bookedin the 2015 show. It is also encouraging to see thatmanufacturers of raw materials and garment machin-

ITMA 2019 Exhibition space booking in full swing

ery are also applying early, and our exhibitors clearlyappreciate the fact that ITMA is a complete, end-to-end solutions showcase, from fibre to finished textileproducts."

Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, andEuropean Committee of Textile Machinery Manufac-turers, which owns the ITMA exhibition, explained:"There is an enormous amount of research and devel-opment in the textile and garment industry, resultingin exciting new technologies and value-added prod-ucts. Some of the powerful innovation drivers impact-ing the industry include digitization of products, pro-cesses and supply chains, as well as sustainability.Hence, despite the challenging business climate, thedemand for leading-edge products continues to grow,and technology providers are still leveraging on ITMA2019 to launch their new solutions to global textileand garment manufacturers and brands."

The last ITMA exhibition, held in Milan in 2015, drewthe participation of 1691 exhibitors from 46 countries.A post-show exhibitor survey found that over 90% ofthem rated their overall experience 'good' or 'excel-lent', and 93% indicated their interest to return to exhibitat the next ITMA, and that there is a strong competi-tive advantage exhibiting at ITMA compared with othershows.

ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 atFira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. Featuring the theme'Innovating the World of Textiles', it will have exhibitsshowcasing an integrated textile and garment manu-facturing value chain. Divided into 19 chapters, exhib-its also include yarns, fibres and fabrics, and solutionsfor technical textiles and nonwovens, and garmentmaking.

Manufacturers interested to participate in ITMA 2019should apply for space online at www.itma.com. Forparticipation enquiries, pleaseemail : application@itma.com.

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Several captains of the industry were also present onthe occasion, including Chairman, Aditya Birla Group,Shri Kumar Mangalam Birla, President, US Polo asso-ciation, Mr. David Cummings; CEO, UK India Busi-ness Council, Mr. Richard Heald; MD, Arvind Mills,Shri Sanjay Lalbhai; Chairman and MD, Raymond,Shri GautamHariSinghania; and Chairman of KoreaFederation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI),Mr.KihakSung.

Aditya Birla Group chairman Kumar Mangalam Birlasaid that India can fill the vacuum created by China."China's exports have dropped by $20 billion and canfurther decline up to $50 billion. We can utilise thisopportunity to make India the textile capital of theworld," he said. Mr. Birla called for research and de-velopment in textiles. "We must step up rigor in skilldevelopment to deliver world-class productivity. Wemust also increase our investment in state-of-the-artresearch and development." I congratulate the PM Sh.NarendraModi for putting the Textile Industry at thecentre stage today said Mr. Birla."

NarendraModi today inaugurated Textiles India 2017,India's first ever mega textiles trade fair, being held atGandhinagar, Gujarat. Addressing the gathering atMahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar, the PM said that basedon Make in India, the textile industry is being infusedwith the mantras of 'skill,scale,speed' & 'zero-defect,zero-effect'. The PM said that the textile sector offerssignificant employment opportunities, it being the sec-ond largest employer after agriculture. The PrimeMinister expressed the hope that Textiles India 2017helps familiarize global & Indian leaders with India'senabling policy environment, strengths & vast oppor-tunities. The full text of the Prime Ministers address isavailable here.

Addressing the gathering, the Union Textiles Minister,Smt. SmritiZubinIrani said that history will be createdin the field of textiles today, with the success of thismega event. The Minister said that Textiles India 2017gives fillip to Honourable Prime Ministers dream of

Mr. Kumar Mangalam Birla, Chairman at Textiles India 2017.

Make in India. She said that besides seeking to engageparticipants in conversations leading to strategic part-nerships that encourage investments, the mega eventseeks also to bring together leaders in the global tex-tile value chain together on one platform, to envisiona glorious future for the Indian textiles industry. Sheinformed that global citizens from 106 countries, 15,000Indian buyers and sellers, 2,500 international buyers,international delegates and representatives and artisansand weavers who enthral us with their craft have cometogether under one roof on this occasion.

Smt. Irani said that Textiles India 2017 brings togethertextiles, traditions and technology. She said it comple-ments the Prime Ministers desire to strengthen theentire Indian textile value chain, comprising the jour-ney of Farm to Fibre, Fibre to Fabric, Fabric to Fash-ion and Fashion to Foreign.

Minister of State for Textiles, Shri Ajay Tamta, andMinisters representing Gujarat, Telangana,Maharashtra, Jharkhand, Assam and Karnataka wereamong several dignitaries who participated in the in-augural session. Governor of Gujarat, Shri O. P. Kohli;Chief Minister of Gujarat, Shri Vijay Rupani, ChiefMinister of Andhra Pradesh, Shri N. ChandrababuNaidu and MoS, Textiles, Shri Ajay Tamta addressedthe audience. Minister for Irrigation, Handloom andTextile and Sericulture, Government of Assam, ShriRanjit Dutta; Minister for Textiles, Government ofKarnataka, Shri RudrappaManappaLamani and Minis-ter for Cooperation, Textiles and Marketing, Govern-ment of Maharashtra, Shri SubashDeshmukh and Chair-man, Jharkhand State Gramodyog Board, Shri SanjaySheth were also present.

Chief Minister of the host state Gujarat, Shri VijayRupani said that Gujarat is fortunate to have gottenthe opportunity to host Textiles India 2017. ShriChandrababu Naidu complimented the Ministry ofTextiles for organizing the event, saying that the tex-tiles sector will continue to survive for times to come.

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It is a non -profit & service oriented organisation in-volved in creating awareness as well as imparting train-ing & skill development in Eco Needs and SustainableSolutions. It is based at Vapi, Gujarat, India.

The focus activities are:

1. Training and Skill Development in TextileColouration, Denim Wash, Fibre& Fabric Evalu-ation, Recycling of Textiles, Customized Formu-lation and in related subject matters.

2. Assisting and training students in their Bachelor,Master as well as Doctorate programmes andspecial training to Research Students in theirProjects.

3. Conducting Seminars, Giving Presentations, In-teractive Programmes as well as Report Prepara-tions on behalf of Customers like Associations,Brands & Retailers and Governmental Agency,NGOs and others

4. Environmental Awareness. Best Available Tech-niques and Cleaner Production.

5. Colouration of Textiles - Practical approach basedon Industry experience, Understanding Theory andFundamentals, Providing Solutions and Auditing,Preparation of Marketing & Promotional Aids,Assistance in preparing Business Plan forSustainability.

6. International Standards & Regulations involvingRegulatory Authorities, Brands, Retailers andCustomers.

7. Current Areas of Interest - Texstyles&Colours

◆ Skill Development, International Standards, En-vironmental Solutions, Strategic Thinking,Trainings and Seminars

◆ Sustainability, Best Available Techniques, TextileRecycling, Textile Industry Review,Technical Tex-tiles, Non Wovens, Textile Coatings , Smart Tex-tiles

◆ Conducting Seminars, Giving Presentations, In-teractive Programmes as well as Report Prepara-tions on behalf of Customers like Associations,Brands & Retailers and Governmental Agency,NGOs and others.

For more information, please contact:Hashmukh ShahMobile: +91 94271 89738E-mail: textiles.vapi@gmail.comNSK SrinivasanMobile: +91 98256 57995E-mail:nsk_sriyayahoo.comKiranthreads Compound, Shed No. A1 / 47, HundredShed Area, Degam Road, GIDC,Vapi- 396195 Gujarat, India

Brief Profile

NSK Srinivasan

Mr. NSK Srinivasan M.Tech from University of Ma-dras as well as awarded FSDC - a fellow of the Soci-ety of Dyers and Colourists, UK having wide 40 Years'experience in the area of Colouration of Textiles,Leather and Paper. Done for the contribution in thearea of Colouration of various substrates for more thanfour decades.

He served in reputed organisation like AtulLimited,Atul, Central Leather Research Institute, Ma-dras, Centre of Excellence, Vapiand In ManufacturingArea at Vaniyambadi, Tamilnadu and is associated withUMTA Management &Texstyles Academy, Vapi formore than three years.

He has deep experienced in Technical Services, Qual-ity Assurance, Product Promotion and Marketing, Pro-viding Solutions to Customers and within the Organi-zation. He has presented several technical Papers onLeather, Textiles, Dyestuffs and Quality in Interna-tional and National Fairs and Seminars.

Mr. Srinivasan widely travelled in India, USA, UKand Turkey for Technical Services, Business Promo-

UMTA Management &Texstyles Academy

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tion, Marketing and Innovation Approaches. He isactively involved in Quality Management areas includ-ing ISO 9001 Activities. He has contributed to thesustainable & profitable growth and diversification ofthe Organizationfor QA, Business Development, Prod-uct Management, Promotional Efforts, Customer In-teractions and Corporate Image Enhancement.

Presently with UMTA Management &Texstyles Acad-emy, Vapi, involved in creating awareness as well asimparting training & skill development in Eco Needsand Sustainable Solutions for Texstyles&Colours area.

Hasmukh Shah

Mr. Hasmukh M. Shah has five decades of experiencein Textile Field involving Yarn Trading for handloomsand power looms, Yarn Dyeing and Yarn Mercerizingas well as Supplying of products including RFD yarnand Fabrics for standardization of Dyes, Pigments andAuxiliaries and preparation of Shade Cards, Lab In-struments and Standards for Textile and Colour Indus-try.

He has been awarded the Life Time Achievement Award

for his contribution in the field of Textiles by TheTextile Association (India) during the TAI seminar atVapi.

He served as a board member of Bombay Yarn Mer-chants Association for 25 years.He is actively associ-ated with Vapi Industries association, Vapi - holdingthe position of Chairman for the committee of Tex-tiles, Railway as well as Skill Development. He is alsoa member of SDC, UK and AATCC, USA.

Mr. Shah has a good relations with leading TextileIndustrialists and with several Textile Mills dealersand also excellent interactions and relations with Insti-tutions and Universities for Knowledge Sharing, SkillDevelopment and Innovation.

He is presently involved in the business of RFD Fab-rics and Yarns for testing of Dyes, Pigments and Tex-tile Auxiliaries, Lab Instruments for the Laboratoriesof Colours and Textiles, Consumables - Staining Fab-ric, Mulitifibers, Detergents, International Standardsand related areas. He is assisting PhD, M.Phil andresearch students in Colours& Textiles by providingRFD Fabrics, Yarns and Consumables and helping themin Industry Placements. His current ambitions are -Skill development, Knowledge Sharing, Establishing aTesting Laboratory and a Textile College. His dreamsare coming into actions with a Textile Activity inGovernment Polytechnic coming up in Silvassa in nearfuture.

Mr. Shah visited UK & Europe and ITME Paris &Birmingham and actively associated with establishmentof a Service Centre for Textile Machineries near Bardoliwith involvement of Rs. 50 Crores investment forDevelopmental initiatives from Government of India.

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The Textile Association (India) Visit us on

www.textileassociationindia.org

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INDIAIndia Licensing Expo 2017Date : 20th-21st August, 2017Venue : Hotel Sahara Star, Vile Parle, Mumbai,

IndiaContact : Gitanjali Atwal, Business Manager

#602, 6th Floor, The Pinnacle BusinessTower, Shooting Range Road,Faridabad - 121009, Haryana India

Tel. : +91 129-4223337, M: +91 9821333146E-mail : gitanjali.atwal@licenseindia.comWebsite : www.licenseindia.com/expo

ICAHT-2017 : 13th International Conference onApparel & Home TextilesDate : 9th September, 2017Venue : India Habitat Centre, New Delhi, IndiaContact : Mr. R. C. Kesar, Conference Secretariat

OKHLA Garment & Textile ClusterD-104, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I,New Delhi - 110 020

Tel. : +91-11-41609550,E-mail : ogtc@ogtc.in, ogtc@airtelmail.inWebsite : www.ogtc.in

5th Edition China Machinex India 2017 and ChinaHomelife India 2017 ExhibitionDate : 05th to 07th December, 2017Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon. Mumbai. IndiaContact : Devisha Prajapati, Relationship Manager,

MCO-Winmark Exhibitions Private LimitedB-702, Dheeraj Heritage Residency - 1Shastri Nagar, Linking Road Extn.,Santacruz (W) Mumbai - 400 054 India

Tel. : +91-022- 26605550,M.: +91 9869150231E-mail: devisha.winmark@gmail.comWebsite : http://www.chinahomelife.in,

http://www.chinamachinex.in/

Techtextil India 2017International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles andNonwovensDate : 13-15th September, 2017Venue : NSC Complex, Goregaon (E),

Mumbai - IndiaContact : PriyankaPawar - +91-22-61445990

Jesica John - +91-22-61445937E-mail : priyanka.pawar@india.messefrankfurt.com,

Jesica.john@ india.messefrankfurt.com

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

Largest International TEXTILE SOURCINGSHOW ITMACH INDIA - International TextileMachinery & Accessories ExhibitionDate : 07th to 10th December, 2017Venue: Helipad Exhibition Center, Gandhinagar,

Ahmedabad, Gujarat (India)Contact : ArvindSemlani - M.: +91-9833977743E-mail : info@ITMACH.com

RadhikaBoddu - M.: +91-9867127598E-mail : info@itsexhibition.com

BhaveshThakar -M.: +91-9375322449E-mail : allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.coWebsite : www.ITMACH.com

ABROAD

7th International Apparel & Textile FairDate : 01st to 03rdNovember, 2017Venue : Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAEContact : 19th Floor, Conrad Hotel, Business Tower,

Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, UAETel. : +971-56 763 6517E-mail : info@internationaltextilefair.com

ITMA 2019 - Largest International Textile andGarment Technology ExhibitionDate : 20th to 26th June, 2019Venue : FIRA CE Barcelona Gran Via,

Barcelona, SpainContact : Daphne Poon

Marketing Communications DirectorITMA Services Pte Ltd. 73 Ubi Road 1,#08-48 Oxley BizHub, Singapore 408733

Tel. : (65) 6849 9362 M: (65) 94789543E-mail : daphnepoon@itma.comWebsite : www.itma.com

Every effort is made to ensure that theinformation given is correct. You arehowever, advised to re-check the dateswith the organizers, for any change inschedule, venue etc., before finalizingyour travel plans.