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Completely-Crete's Guide to A Short Stay in

Kalyves Enjoy a stay in Kalyves with this great FREE

mini Guide

AlisonYates

This fabulous Mini-Guide presents you with a special itinerary that we have offered to many visitors staying in Kalyves, near Chania. If you are planning a trip to Crete, why not stay in Kalyves, and take advantage of this great mini-Guide! This itinerary will

help you plan a great trip taking in the sights, sounds and tastes of this beautiful area, without the stress of working out what to do and how to do it!

CCoommpplleetteellyy CCrreettee Welcomes you to Crete

Crete is an ancient land, largest of the Greek Islands that lies outstretched at the southern edge of Europe. Look on any map and you‟ll find it embraced by the bluest of blue Mediterranean, Aegean, Ionian and Libyan Seas gently caressing the golden sands of its numerous pristine beaches. The most southerly point in Europe, it basks in glowing sunshine for over 300 days every year. Welcome then to the beautiful Greek Island of Crete, where you‟ll find:

Wonderful Weather

Brilliant Beaches

Irresistible Resorts

Spectacular Scenery

Magnificent Mountains

Gorgeous Gorges

Warm-hearted People

Fabulous Flora and Fauna

Fantastic Fresh Food

White Washed Villages

Stress Free Lifestyle

The island of Crete is a unique and captivating blend of ancient civilisations and modern lifestyles. Steeped in myths and legends, it is the birthplace of Zeus, home of the Minotaur and King Minos, and setting of many enthralling episodes of Greek mythology. As the centre of the ancient Minoan civilization there are many archaeological sites to explore, Knossos being the most famed.

. Kalyves

Museums of natural history, folk art and archaeology scatter the Island. This wonderful Greek island is not just known for its ancient relics and old fossils! Young and vibrant it can be – when it wants to. With a cosmopolitan café culture, exciting nightlife, a lively music scene and chic shopping. music scene and chic shopping. The Cretan scenery is spectacular and stunning. Magnificent mountains, gorgeous gorges, lovely landscapes and beautiful beaches create an environment of unsurpassed natural beauty. Rare flora and fauna, marine and bird life find their home in this lovely setting. This is truly a nature lover‟s paradise. If you are into photography you‟ll get some brilliant pictures too!

The fertile Cretan plains are home to thousands of olive groves, vineyards, organic fruits and vegetables and wild herbs. The seas are awash with fresh fish. This abundance has led to the development of the famous Crete diet and is a foodies delight. The Cretan Diet is internationally famous and prolongs life and health for all those who enjoy it.

Here are some useful Greek phrases to help you get the best from your stay (though almost everyone you meet will want to talk to you in English!)

Yassoo means both Hello and Goodbye

Ef garys toe means thank you

Kali mera means good morning

Kali spera means good evening

Kali nikta means good night

We‟ve put together the following suggested itinerary so that you‟re able to get the most from your stay on this wonderful Island. To learn more about Crete, visit Completely Crete for a true insider's guide:

Completely-Crete.com

Day One - Kalyves Village

Kalyves has two super beaches with soft golden sand and scenic backdrops of the White Mountains (Lefki Ori). Plenty of extremely good tavernas, some waterfront, others around the pretty village square, offer the hungry holidaymaker a fabulous array of food and drink. The locals are very friendly here and there are lots of shops, tavernas and bars, and a magnificent church, making this a charming fishing village and a pleasure to stay in.

Try the beach front Taverna named Medusa. This lovely restaurant, ideally located at the gorgeous beach of Kalyves is just a 2 minute stroll from the centre of the village. The traditional Lamb Kleftiko is highly recommended. The paper wrapped slow cooked lamb is cooked with fresh seasonal and locally grown vegetables and potatoes topped with traditional local Feta cheese. Delicately flavoured with wild hillside herbs the melt in the mouth Medusa Kleftiko has to be the best on the whole island! Wash this down with a glass or two of George‟s (the owners) own house wine – a very pleasant Cabernet Sauvignon and you‟re sure to be ready to say: Kali nikta!

Day 2 - Chania

From Kalyves, it is just a short drive or bus ride to the historic and beautiful harbour town of Chania (pronounced Hanyar). This is a stunning town where modern, Venetian and Turkish traditional architecture are blended together making it a fabulous place to visit.

First stop is for a leisurely coffee – maybe a strong hot and sweet Greek coffee or an ice cool cafe frappe – at the very chic Cafe in the Park in the heart of Chania on Tzanakaki Street. The park is well used by locals who use it to promenade and take their children to the lovely play area and to see and feed the captive Kri Kri goats. The endemic wild Cretan Goat or Kri Kri is a small brown stocky animal with very distinctive curled horns. Its usual home is the famous Samaria Gorge. After coffee in the Park, you can walk the couple of hundred yards to the famous Chania Market. Turn right out of the park and walk down towards the end of Tzanakaki Street and the market is across the road. The daily indoor Chania Market is very popular with tourists and locals alike, with all manner of Cretan foods on sale. Said to be the best indoor market in Europe. It's a fabulous place for all manner of spectacular ingredients that make up the famed Cretan Diet. It is has a lively and vibrant atmosphere. Greek Mountain tea, and numerous other herbs and spices, thyme honey, olive oil and raki are enticingly displayed to tempt the passer by.

If you haven‟t yet shopped until you‟ve dropped at the market, make your to Leather Lane in the heart of the Old Town. From the indoor market's rear entrance, turn left and walk the few hundred yards along Tsouderon Street and soon the smell of leather will fill the air and you will be stunned at the dazzling displays of locally-made leather goods, from belts, sandals, wallets, handbags, and the traditional black

boots named "stivania", worn by the men of Cretan villages.

Your lunch venue will be the renowned and much recommended Ela Restaurant. Snuggled in the small winding back alleys of the Old Town. Ela means "Come!" and offers a welcome second to none. Ela can be found in the back streets of the Old Town of Chania, at Kondilaki 47 (turn into Baladinou off Halidon Street for the alleys of the Old Town). This is a wonderful place to eat. It's only open in the summer months as the restaurant is in the shell of an old Venetian building without a roof. The décor can only be described as rustic, with no plaster on the walls, exposed supporting beams and lots of overgrown vines and flowers decorating the old stones that surround you.

After returning to Kalyves and indulging in a much needed afternoon siesta, we suggest dining at the gorgeous Aphrodite Restaurant in the heart of the village. Newly opened in the summer of 2008 this up-market restaurant is situated on the popular village square. In sharp contrast to the Ela restaurant, the Aphrodite is smart and very chic.

Decorated with a beautiful flair the restaurant lives up to its Greek Goddess namesake and is indeed decorated with lovers of beauty in mind. The glassware, table linen, crockery and cutlery are top of the range. Diners have a choice of eating inside the plush interior or dining al fresco in the patio garden at the rear, where the aroma of jasmine flowers fills the air and swallows swoop gracefully overhead. The menu offers a wide choice of Greek food and is carefully prepared and beautifully presented. The staff are very attentive and are eager for you to have the best dining experience possible. Try the plentiful and colourful Greek salad, laden with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers and topped with local olives and fabulous Feta cheese. The cheese has to be the best the area has to offer. Or try the homemade Skafia herb and cheese filled pies, smothered in honey – a local delicacy. A plateful of deep fried potatoes and a wholesome Stifado (beef stew) should allow you to waddle your way back to your accommodation. But don‟t forget to save room for the complimentary sweet and a glass or two of Raki served at the end of your meal.

Eating in Greece Guidelines At this stage it might be a good idea to read a section from our informative guide to "Eating in Greece." Tavernas

The Crete Taverna is the traditional eating place for Cretans and tourists alike and in the past was an informal type of restaurant only open in the evenings. Now the name applies to almost all restaurants and most are open all day (especially during the tourist season).

Estiatorio ...was the name given to the more formal restaurant, although the distinction between taverna and estiatorio is now blurred somewhat, although you will still see both names (in Greek!). All the traditional Greek and Cretan dishes will be served here, including:

Moussaka - baked minced lamb with aubergines, potatoes and béchamel sauce

Kleftiko - slow baked lamb with potatoes and cheese

Yemista - peppers and tomatoes stuffed with rice and vegetables (sometimes minced meat)

Stifado - beef casserole in tomato sauce cooked very slow

Pastitsio - baked minced beef with macaroni pasta and béchamel sauce

Greek salad - with feta

You'll find some Cretan specialities too, including delicious pies (sfakia pie) made with lamb, some cheese ones, and also chicken versions. Try the smoked pork if you see it on the menu. Local salads (as opposed to "Greek") are worth trying too, but make sure you have room because they can be quite substantial. Snails and rabbit are very popular here too. Fish Tavernas From the words psari (meaning fish) and taverna, you get psarotaverna. Fish restaurants abound in Crete offering fresh fish caught the very same day and often just off the beach where the restaurant sits.

If you're up early enough you might catch the local fishermen coming ashore at the nearby harbour. Later you'll see them driving round the village with their catch on the back of their trucks, calling off at restaurants as they go. Obviously, fish will be a speciality here, but don't expect it to be cheap. Fish is a bit of a luxury as fishing stocks are reduced and a good catch harder to find throughout the Mediterranean.

Top Ten Taverna Tips

1. Many Tavernas have uncomfortable seating. So if you haven‟t your own personal padding or there are no cushions available be prepared to walk or limp away with a dull pain in the backside.

2. After visiting a few Tavernas you‟ll soon notice that menus are very

similar. Good, wholesome Greek food which is fresh, seasonal and plentiful finds its way onto every menu – and not much more.

3. When choosing from the menu always factor in a second or even third

choice. Due to the seasonal and fresh nature of the foods sourced by tavernas, some ingredients are unavailable at certain times of the year. Don‟t, for example, expect strawberries after May or June, or expect grapes before August.

4. Starters are often served with the main course – or sometimes after!

Also don‟t expect a main course to contain “meat and two veg” – it won‟t. If you want vegetables you‟ll need to order these separately.

5. Food is often served at room temperature and will NOT always be

piping hot.

6. Cutlery will normally be found in the bread basket that accompanies EVERY meal. You will not be given an extra set of cutlery for each course – so hold onto your knife and fork!

7. Expect slower service than you are used to. Take your time, relax and

enjoy your meal. Dining can take two hours on average. From asking for your bill to actually leaving the restaurant can take up to a further hour.

8. A comprehensive sweets, pudding or desserts menu is rare. You won‟t

need one! However you will be given – free of charge – a small dessert of fresh fruit, traditional sweet pastries or ice cream.

9. Expect a complimentary alcoholic drink such as a carafe of Raki (local

fire water) or jug of wine or a glass of Metaxa (Greek brandy) after you‟ve asked for the bill. This is served with the complimentary desert.

10. Your bill will generally be far less expensive that you think, so always

leave a generous tip!

Day 3 - Myth and Legend! Today you'll take a ten minute scenic coastal drive from your accommodation in Kalyves Village to a magical land, a hidden gem steeped in legend and myth... It is said that the Sirens were urged by the Goddess Hera to challenge the Muses in a singing contest, but they lost this contest. In victory, the Muses plucked the Sirens of their feathers and wore them as a trophy. With their feathers plucked the Sirens were no longer able to fly and turned half of their body into a fish tail. Thus, some believe, is how the ancient City of Aptera got its name – in tribute to that famous episode from Greece‟s Mythical past, for an animal is aptère when it is devoid of wings. Overshadowed by more famous sites at Knossos, the former city state of Aptera near Kalyves is not yet on the tourist route and so can be investigated in relative peace. Perched 230 metres up on a hill overlooking Souda Bay, with panoramic views of the whole plain of Chania, Aptera is a magical place. The hillsides are covered with wild aromatic herbs and wildflowers and you won‟t find a better representative of wild nature combined with history, myth and legend.

Aptera was once one of the most important city-states in the whole of Crete and was actually totally autonomous from around the 6th - 4th century BC, minting its own coins. It sent soldiers to aid the Spartans during the 2nd Messenian War (668 BC) and was later an ally of Knossos during the Cretan civil war in 220 BC. It had two harbours. The first is

believed to be at Minoa at the north entrance to Souda Bay, where Marathi beach can be found today. The second is thought to be at either Kalami or Kalyves. Aptera continued to be an important city during the Roman and first Byzantine periods but the Arabs destroyed it in 823 AD. The Venetians built a fort there but this was destroyed by the pirate Barbarosa. The city was also badly hit by an earthquake in the 7th century AD and eventually abandoned. In 1942 the site was excavated by the Germans who were in occupation of Crete. More excavations were carried out in 1986-87 and in 1992-95, and systematic work continues today.

The city walls are still standing, and you can also find remains of a small Temple of Demeter built around 100 BC. There‟s a small Roman theatre and baths and most spectacular of all are three enormous vaulted cisterns from the time of the Roman occupation. Three arched vaults enclose a huge cistern that held water to feed the Roman baths that

cover the site. You can enter the cistern system through a small doorway to view the central chambers. Leaving the site, you can veer off to the right and take the gently curving road to the impressive Turkish Fort, built around the end of the 19th Century. It‟s very impressive and holds a commanding view of Souda Bay and the surrounding plain. You can take lunch at the small Taverna close to the historic site in the nearby village of Megala Horafia. It is featured in the Rough Guide to Crete as one of the best eating experiences! After a well needed siesta we suggest the lovely restaurant of Kritiko be your dinner venue. The Kritiko is located centrally in Kalyves and has prime position overlooking the sea. It lies amidst a wonderful garden that has an oversized chess board as its highlight. Because of its location and well deserved reputation as the best restaurant in Kalyves, the Kritiko is always full. The waiters are both friendly and attentive, despite the demands of an often full restaurant. After being seated you‟re brought a basket of warm homemade wholemeal bread with a delicious dip made up of baked aubergine, pine nuts and garlic – very tasty. We recommend the cheese filled stuffed baked mushrooms for starters and the char grilled chicken fillet marinated in honey, wine and herbs as a main course. Or try the catch of the day. There are plenty of fish dishes on the menu and we recommend the fish risotto or the swordfish steak. All dishes served at the Kritiko are cooked to perfection, delicious to eat and well presented. We love dining here and hope you will too!

Day 4 - Peaceful Serenity to Lively Vibrancy! This morning we‟ll transport you the 20 minute journey from Kalyves village to the Souda Bay British Commonwealth War Cemetery. The Cemetery is well worth a visit and lies 5km to the east of Chania on a small plateau just above sea-level on the eastern rim of Souda Bay. As you may expect it is a quiet, peaceful spot and is immaculately kept. Trees and shrubs on three sides with the open sea of the bay in front surround the cemetery. It is the last resting place of 1,527 of the known 2000 British Commonwealth war dead, the majority of whom lost their lives in the Battle for Crete between May 20th and May 31st, 1941.

It's in a beautiful, quiet location. There you'll find rows and rows of white headstones set in immaculate lawns and decorated with borders of flowers. Little pomegranate trees (the fruit of the underworld) are laid amongst the flowers and shrubs along each row. At the seaward border of the Souda Bay Cemetery there are large bushes of

rosemary (the herb of remembrance), all are significant symbols for the last resting place of so many who died in the Battle for Crete. There are 1527 graves, mostly British, but with a large number of New Zealanders too (447), together with 197 Australians, and some other countries are also represented. Not all those buried here were identified and some headstones bear the legend “Known only to God” Visitors can sign a book with comments and feelings, and the entries are testament to the effect this moving place has on people who visit from all over the world. The visitors' book is housed in an enclosure near the entrance gate. A dramatic change of pace from a peaceful, restful place to a vibrant and bustling tourist resort is scheduled for later in the morning. We‟ll make our way to the wonderful resort of Platanias. It is crammed packed with a huge choice of accommodation, shops, restaurants, bars, discos, clubs and beachfront cafes.

It has a superb 4km stretch of white sandy beach. Opposite the beach, the small uninhabited island of Theodorou is home to a number of the protected Kri Kri (wild goats) of Crete. Theodorou Island is said to be a petrified sea monster, rising from the sea with its gaping mouth wide open.

Away from the bustling beach resort is the old and very quaint village of Pano Platanias which is a definite „must do experience‟. Very friendly locals, fabulous food and drink, the magnificent church of Agios Dimitris and views to die for make Pano Platanias a wonderful place to visit. Wandering around the old village and admiring the charm of it all you are greeted by a member of the family who own the Astrea Restaurant urging you to take a look at the best view in Crete.

With much jaw dropping and breath taking as you gaze from the vantage point of the restaurant you are given a refreshing and complimentary glass of cold orange juice. Sliced fruit on small plates are also offered as you continue to admire the stunning view. Maybe not the subtlest forms of persuasion to dine in the restaurant, but nevertheless one of the most compelling. The food, service and general ambience of this wonderful restaurant needs no further persuasion to stay and dine. Try a delicious plate of Chicken Souvlaki - grilled and skewered chunks of tender chicken, intermingled with sliced red pepper and sliced red onion. Or try Exohiko, pork pieces oven baked with onions, peppers and feta cheese in paper - a mouth-watering and delicious dish. After returning to Kalyves, take your now customary siesta and it will be time for a nice evening stroll through the village to its far end. Situated there is the delightful Piperia Restaurant that boasts all home-grown, organic foods on its wide menu. A family run restaurant with even the youngest child – aged around 8 – acting as your waiter. We recommend the hearty mixed grill served with fried potatoes, red peppers, tomatoes and onions. The homemade wine is robust, strong and served from a metal jug. The restaurant was featured in the Daily Telegraph as the best Greek restaurant in the world! We love it and hope you will too.

Day 5 - Monuments and Markets This morning we‟ll transport you the 30 minute scenic drive to Rethymnon to take a look around this beautiful town, which lies in central Crete, in the prefecture of the same name. East of Chania and west of Heraklion, the town is a brilliant mix of old and new. In the daytime you cannot fail to be submerged into its history - a monument and testimony to bygone days and differing cultures. An enchanting blend of Byzantine remains, Venetian grandeur and fine Ottoman buildings are a treat for those who love history. The old city stands almost intact with many restored buildings being cleverly utilised for modern day needs. The trend for shopping at farmers' markets has always been in vogue in Crete. Real Cretan farmers bring their fresh produce to market in their trucks and often sell from the back of them. The fruits and vegetables are usually organic, extremely fresh, very cheap, and so tasty. Don‟t expect to see each separate stall selling a full range of fruits and vegetables, though.

Often the farmer has only one crop to sell and so his stall will contain just courgettes or just tomatoes for example. The herb, cheese and honey stalls also sell wonderful local produce. You can taste before you buy too, and sample some of the best food you‟ve ever had. The markets open early in the morning till around 2.00pm and can get very busy with

locals and tourists alike looking for bargains. The colourful and lively atmosphere the markets create make shopping fun and exciting. We‟ll then take a welcome coffee break at one of the many cafes along the Venetian harbour of Rethymnon. Nicely caffeinated we‟ll have the energy to explore the Monuments of Rethymnon. The Fortetza Fortress Built after 1573 by the Venetians the fortress named the Fortetza is the one of the biggest, and best standing fortresses in Crete. Built to protect the town's population, it comprises four bastions and three entrances. The Mosque Neratzes During Venetian occupation the mosque Neratzes, which today is used as a music school, was the Augustinian church of the Holy Virgin. In 1657 the

Turks transformed it into the mosque and later added a large minaret with two galleries. The chapel of the Holy Virgin, situated at its west side and dedicated to the Body of Christ, was also transformed into a seminary. Outstanding elements of this building are the doorframe and the three domes. The Loggia Centrally situated in the centre of town is the Loggia. This 16th century magnificent building is most characteristic Renaissance monument of to be found in the area and the most important architectural reminder of the Venetian occupation. The Rimondi Fountain Rebuilt in 1626 on the foundation of the earlier one, the new fountain is architecturally and sculptural ornate. The water runs from three spouts in the shape of a lion's head into three sinks. Aghios Frankiskos Aghios Frankiskos was the catholic monastery of the Franciscan order. It has a single sloped wooden roofed basilica with an impressively decorated entrance. Apart from the temple two chapels have been preserved which are situated east of the church. Grab a bite to eat at one of the fabulous al-fresco Tavernas of Rethymnon and return to Kalyves for a much needed afternoon siesta.

This evening you can dine at the friendly sea-front Taverna of Provlita. Fish dishes are a speciality and the owner displays the squids he has caught earlier in the day on a "washing line”! Along with squid there are plenty of other fish dishes including fresh grilled sardines served with tasty chipped potatoes.

Otherwise try the Bekri Meze which is a spicy pork dish – a firm favourite. The wine served here is exceptional and luckily the generous owner, Michalis, normally offers a complimentary jug at the end of the meal. This one of our favourite restaurants and we hope you like it too!

Day 6 - Village life!

From Kalyves we‟ll take the 10 minute drive to the lovely village of Gavalohori. It is a very old village with an interesting history which is explained in the local Folklore Museum. We‟ll visit the museum and see how the crafts and folk art impacted the lives of the Cretans who lived in this village many years ago. It‟s a chance to step back in time to a gentler way of life that entirely revolved around the seasons, the forces of nature and the hard work of the people.

The Women's Cooperative of Folk Crafts also has a small shop in Gavalohori where you can buy traditional Cretan craft items. Lace making in the Greek islands can be traced back to ancient times, practised by women of ancient Crete. It was reintroduced to the Crete villages from the West during the Renaissance. Of particular note is the kopaneli in Cretan Folk Art, which dates from the Byzantine times. The kopaneli is the name of the technical interweaving of many silk threads on a vertical layout that are rolled around 14 narrow and long wood sticks that are called kopane. The mulberry trees planted around the village by the Turks still produce silk from the silkworms that feed on their leaves. You can lunch at the nearby village of Douliana - again, a very old, traditional village. The area is simply stunning and home to just a few locals and a huge array of flora and fauna. You can stroll along the nature path and take in the beauty of this lovely place. At the Douliana Taverna the food is simple village fare with Cretan dishes such as Horta (wild greens) and Fava (Split pea dish) on the menu. There's plenty of meat dishes too! After driving back to Kalyves and siesta time you can dine at the Mythos Taverna. This Taverna is owned by the local butcher, so top class meat dishes are always on the menu. The spit roasted chicken is simply delicious!

DAY 7 - Saturday 13th September Our second trip to Chania will allow you to visit Chania Archaeological Museum which is a converted Franciscan monastery in the heart of Chania. The building houses tastefully exhibited collections of Minoan and Roman artefacts from the western side of Crete including findings from Kydon and Aptera dating back to 2300 BC.

Afterwards take a leisurely stroll around the old Venetian harbour of Chania with its charming waterfront restaurants and bars. Or ride in style in a horse drawn carriage gently clip clopping on the wide slabbed harbour front. Day or evening the wonderful harbour is full of character and charm and will leave you entranced with its beauty.

The Ottoman built Janissaries Mosque is a feature of the harbour front with its domed roof and arches. It sits amongst the water side bars and Tavernas. The Turks built the Mosque as far back as 1645, but it's been renovated a few times since then! Another landmark building is the Naval Museum. Picture card perfect is the only way to describe this brilliant place. You can eat lunch at the charming harbour front restaurant of Monastiri and relax and let the world go by. It‟s a lovely place to eat as after being seated you are brought a huge jug of iced water and a plate of toasted bread drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with oregano. We recommend any of the grilled meat dishes served here accompanied by village salad. The perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food is simply delicious. The spectacular village salad bursting with the best seasonal salad vegetables, fresh herbs, olives, gherkins and topped with soft white cheese is a fabulous accompaniment to any main course.

After returning to Kalyves and enjoying an afternoon siesta it will be time for your last dinner in Kalyves - this trip anyway! We suggest the Mistrali Taverna at Kalyves harbour. This is an extremely popular eating place for both visitors and locals. The food, wine and service are excellent. Afterwards you could take coffee or even a cocktail at the laid back beach bar, also belonging to Mistrali. This is the perfect setting to watch the sun go down on what hopefully has been a wonderful week in Crete.

WE HOPE YOU ENJOYED THIS GUIDE! You can learn more about Crete by visiting our website at Completely Crete. We love Santorini too. For more information on this beautiful Island go to our sister site Simply Santorini. Finally, visiting Greece is a lot about the food, and that is especially true when visiting Crete, the home of the world famous Cretan Diet. You can learn how to eat like a true Cretan, lose weight, improve health and live longer. Visit the Cretan Bowl Diet website for more information.

We look forward to seeing you in Crete again soon!

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