A n At i o n A l g e o g r A p h i c t r Av e l e r & u s A i d s p e c i A l s u p p l e m e n tt h eW e s t e r n Balkans Land ofDiscovery46 Outstanding Ways to Experience Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo,Macedonia, Montenegro, and Serbia National Park Wonders * The Sporting Life * Food Lovers GuideSacred Places * Caf Society * Party On! * Plus More

INTRODUCTION DIsCOVERING THE WEsTERN BalkaNsa pale stone bridge spans a narrow gorge. A snow-capped peak glows in the morning light. Bells ringfrom within a medieval monastery, and a muezzins callechoes from an ancient mosque. Youre in the Balkans.A decade after the end of wars in the region, the doorshave opened again on one of the most magical placesin the world. Whether hiking western Albanias wildmountains or wandering the colorful Sarajevo bazaarsin Bosnia and Herzegovina; breathing the Ottoman at-mosphere of Prizren, Kosovo, or exploring the mystical shores of MacedoniasLake Ohrid; dining on grilled squid at a seaside caf in Montenegro or sam-pling the nightlife in the Serbian capital of Belgradevisitors cant help butmarvel at the richness of culture and the vibrant weave of people, history, andTanjICa PEROvIC (TOP), gaRy jOHn nORman/gETTy ImagEs (bOTTOm), gavIn HEllIER/gETTy ImagEs (OPPOsITE), walTER bIbIKOw/gETTy ImagEs (COvER)nature in this crossroads of Europe. The EditorsPHOTO CREDIT TKMontenegros Kotor Bay remains a major Balkans draw. Top: A girl wears traditional garb for an August celebration inSerbia. Left: In Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostars narrow streets beckon. Cover: Lake Ohrid, Macedonia.2 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 3 MACEDONIA INTERIOR DEsIGNL ocation, location, location. Occupyingprime turf in the fertile Central VardarValley, the prosperous second-centuryb.c. Roman settlement of stobi saw lots of traffic.It was a major trading center on one of the mainroutes between the Danube River and Aegean Sea.Residents lived in opulent stylethanks, in part, tonearby sources of gold and, especially, marble. Homes were decorated with ornate mosaicscenes of domestic life, animals, and geometricdesigns. Some of the most impressive mosaics aresheltered in Stobis basilicaan easy day trip fromthe capital city of Skopje. Kristina Stefanova At the Stobi site, a mosaic floor surrounds the baptistry.SERBIA RaspBERRIEs: BEaRING FRUITS erbia supplies a third of the worldsraspberries for export, cultivating themthe old-fashioned way: on the sun- drenched slopes of the central and western parts of the country, in the prime time of JuneRiver, where the aroma of berries perfumesthe air at harvest time and a raspberry statuestands in the middle of town. Brankovinaholds a raspberry festival in June. Apart fromtheir superlative flavor, raspberries possess and July. The result is a berry that is rich, red, antioxidant qualities and are used in massage MONTENEgROflavorful, and sweet. The growing epicentertreatments in the Serbian village of Borac. is the town of arilje, on the pristine Rzava Laurie WernersUMMER DaYs: BEaCH aND BEYONDB udva, Montenegros trendiest summerspot, has long had it all. With its marble-paved streets, Venetian walls, and elegantmedieval architecture, the Old City is often men-ered in the mid-20th centurydate to the firstcentury b.c. Come nighttime, sit back, relax, dine,and enjoy some music or theater.Kristina StefanovajOHanna HubER/sImE (TOP), RussEll gORDOn/auRORa PHOTOs (bOTTOm)tioned in the same breath as Dubrovnik. Budvasmain streets are sprinkled with outdoor cafsjOHanna HubER/sImE (TOP), RaDIus ImagEs/CORbIs (bOTTOm)and barsideal for the see-and-be-seen crowd,dependably tanned (Budva has 17 beaches) anddressed in the latest. To shop in Budva is to gofrom gucci to stores selling locally made rugsafine metaphor for the blend of then and now. A detailed exploration of the cityone of theoldest on the Adriatic coastshould include a lookVillagers handpicksome of the tastiestat the winged lion above the main gate and time atraspberries on Earth.the Citadel, with its impressive library of ancientBudva melds two welcoming facets: seaside resort andtomes within and, outside, striking views of theculturally rich city. Of its many Adriatic beaches, popularsea. The greek and Roman necropolisesdiscov- Mogren (top) is closest to the Old Town.4 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 5 MACEDONIA spIRITUallY sERENE, lakEsIDEThe monastery of sveti Naum sits on the southeastern shore of Lake Ohrid, not far from the Albanian border.Established in 905 by Saint Naum of Ohrid,the medieval scholar who founded monasti- magical parallel universeand all the more so after the ticket seller hands over a fiery shot of the monasterys homemade rakija (see page 27) with your ticket. Sveti Naum carefully safeguards its peace and quiet (fruit brandycism in the Balkans, the first monastery was notwithstanding). You can purchase trinketssuperseded in the 16th century by a structureoutside of the monastery, but the monasterythat has stood its ground ever since. With itself, funded in part by a hotel and restaurantpeaceful views over the lake and peacockson the grounds, is kept otherwise free of com-strutting around, the monastery feels like a mercial incursions. John MarksSpend the night:Sveti Naum Monasteryon Lake Ohrid has ahotel on the grounds. SERBIApRaYERs aND BlEssINGsA t night, seen from a distance, the dome ofsveti sava Cathedral shines like a fragmentof the moon, and its tempting to believethat the place of worship has been there forever. Infact, the churchnamed for the founder of the Ser-kilo/4,000-ton dome was finally put in place. Theresult is a stupendous work of religious architec-ture and an acoustic wonder. When you go to SaintSava, be sure to stay for the music. Liturgical chantrises to the great central dome, a metaphor for thebian Orthodox Churchis the product of centuriesheavenly spheres, and showers back down in anof struggle to establish a national identity in the echo of time-honored Eastern Orthodox tradition.Balkans. As legend has it, when the Ottoman Turks You can feel the sound in your bones. John Marksburned the body of Saint Sava in Belgrade the contemporary era. But nothing withinanDREj IsaKOvIC/afP/gETTy ImagEs (TOP), TOny EvElIng/alamy (bOTTOm)in an attempt to suppress Serbian resis-tance to their rule, the people made anRObERTO mEazza/Iml ImagE gROuP (TOP). PavlIn DElCHEv (bOTTOm) HEllO, OlD MaNthese walls is a match for Adam of Mace- donia, the countrysIoath, says Belgrade native Milan Prosen. n a nice example of upcycling, the Mu-oldest artifact everThey swore to build a church so large seum of the City of skopje is housed in the excavated. Thethat it would cover all the ground conse- citys former railway stationa handsomesmall sculpture ofcrated by the ashes of Saint Sava.piece of modernism. The clock over the mainAdamseated, with Construction began in 1936 butentrance is frozen at the precise moment ina detailed spine,stopped when the germans invaded in1963 when a severe earthquake hit, destroyingribs, and navel1941 and didnt resume until after the fallmuch of the city in its wake.goes back someof Communism. In 1989, the 3.6 million Adam of The museums permanent exhibition re- 6,000 years. Alex Macedonia.Sveti Sava, known for brilliant acoustics, canflects Skopje from prehistoric times through Roberston Textorhold some 10,000 people. Candles (above)lend a silent, timeless mood of reverence.6 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 7 Bosnia and Herzegovinas wine country is cen-tered in its southwest, where the climate is oftencompared to Californias. Obiteljski Podrum Brkicis one of the principal estates along the wine route.Seek out Zilavka and Blatina grape varietals. kosovo has a wealth of grapevarieties, including the widelygrown Prokupac, followedby gamay and Smederevka.Wineries to check out in-clude Muja, Old Cellar, andStoneCastle. Macedonia has 38 wineries.Tikves is the largest winery inthe Balkans, producing 24 types of wine that rangefrom bone dry to marvelously sweet. Vranec, themost important Macedonian grape, yields dark red,fruity table wines with full body and complex aro-mas. Worthy Macedonian estates include Bovin,Popov, Popova Kula, Skovin, grkov, Tristo, Pivka,and Chateau Kamnik. Montenegro is a tiny country producing a handfulof fine wines, mostly in the southern and coastalregions. Chardonnay and Cabernet can be excep-tional, and high-quality dry white wines are beingmade from Vranac grapes. Plantaze, Alexsan-drovic, and Kovacevic are among the regions mostimpressive wineries. In Albanias Vjosa Valley, white wine grapes cross the serbia has a grape-growing history that datesBalkans RoundupVjosa River with some old-fashioned help. Right: A retired to Roman times. One of the countrys oldest electrician, Mehmeti Eqerem (top) is a highly respectedand most famous vineyard regions is Zupa, 129 VINES, GRAPES, AND WINESwine-barrel maker; grapes (bottom) thrive near Skopje.kilometers/80 miles south of Belgrade. Prokupac indigenous grapes that will be most interesting in is Serbias chief red grape; Tamjanika (a Muscat RObERTO gIussanI/sOlOmangO (abOvE anD TOP RIgHT), bIll baCHmann/mIRa (lOwER RIgHT) the future; the world already has plenty of Char-variety), a popular white. Marguerite ThomasWinemaking in the Balkans is an ancient tradition that is just beginning to re-emerge after years of political up-heaval. Today, each of the Balkan countries makeswine, but regional, economic, and cultural differ- While some wineries are not set up to receivevisitors, others are eager to show off their winesand Balkan hospitality. International grape vari-etals are found everywhere, but each region alsoboasts wine made from unique indigenous grapes. donnay. A nice glass of Blatina, anyone? albania has vineyards along the Vjosa River in the Permet district and around picturesque wine towns such as Berat and gjirokastra. Boukas is a winery known for its Cabernet-Merlot blends andFa s T Fa C TIts an exciting time for Balkan wine. Vineyardsare being replanted, wineries are undergoing much-needed modernization, and large state-owned facili-ties are becoming privately owned, entrepreneurialences account for variations in quality, which canMargaret Rand, award-winning co-author of thenative Shesh. Some production at family-run Cobo wineries competing for gold medals.range from rustic to ultrasophisticated.book Grapes & Wines, puts it this way: Its the takes place in traditional kullas (stone houses).8 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 9 BOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINAIN THE OTTOMaN sTYlE N o visit to Sarajevo is complete without some time spent at the Gazi Husrev Beg mosque, one of the best examples of 16th-century Ottoman architecture in the region. The complex once sprawled over a city block anda fountain covered by a carved wooden canopy.Upon entering, note the sign: no cycling, smok-ing, guns, talking on mobile phones. Within themosque, shoes are removed, and women mustcover their heads. Kristina Stefanova included a mosque, school, soup kitchen, hospice, library, inn, public baths, and tombsnotably gazi Husrev Begs final resting place.Beg (1480-1541), the first Ottoman governor of Bosnian descent (his father was Bosnian; his mother a Turkish princess), had a keen interest in urban development. His architectural patronage left Sarajevo a richer spot.With fires, conflict, and changing times, some of the original structures are closed, but the well- preserved mosque (with its handsome dome, min- aret, and clock tower) remains open to visitors. It is constructed of stone, but the interior feels warm as worshippers and visitors walk over the thickGazi Husrev Beg, Sarajevos main mosque, is a treasure carpets and gaze at the intricate walls. Equally of Oriental design, down to its rugs. A wood-canopied peaceful are the grounds, with baths, tombs, and fountain (below) dominates the enclosed front courtyard.ALBANIA BIG, RaRE BIRDs IN QUIET plaCEs T he gray-white Dalmatian pelican, na- tive to southeastern Europe, is the leastbreeds, though, in the karavasta lagoon in DivjakeNational Park, on the central Adriatic coasttheOPPOsITE: Ts CORRIgan/alamy (TOP), DOug mCKInlay/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (fOunTaIn) ERmal mInO/www.DIvjaKE.nET (TOP), nICK KOnTOnICOlas/1000bIRDs.COm (bOTTOm), common of the eight species of pelicans. largest wetland area in Albania and an important Whats more, the regions largest bird has a grand site for wintering waterbirds. The lagoon plays wingspan of 3 meters/10 host to a wide range of feet and can weigh up to 15 wildlife, including 228 bird kilograms/33 pounds. They species, 25 mammal species, tend to settle in isolatedand 29 amphibian species. islets rich with fish. But Because of Karavasta with the decrease in wet- Lagoons rich natural diver- land areas due to hunting,sity, international organi- farming, industrialization, zations have stepped in to and pollution has come ahelp protect the ecosystem, decrease in the Dalmatian resulting in a reverse in pelican population. the trend of faunal decline, Flocks of Dalmatian pelicans can sometimes beThe species is now seen flying in and out of the Karavasta Lagoonpelicans included. endangered. The bird still(top), not far from the village of Divjake.Laurie Werner10 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 11 SERBIA CHIC CapITal plEasUREsB elgrades cobblestone skadarska street is where the spirit of the old city lives. At the turn of the last century, this bo-hemian quarter was home to many of Serbiaswriters, musicians, and artists. Creative types Hip today, gone tomorrow? Not in Bel-grade. In fact, broad, pedestrians-only knezMilhailova street has been the place to seeand be seen since 1870. Belgrades mostprominent families moved into the area, andstill gather here. The well-preserved mainin 1938 it became home to the citys first sky-thoroughfare is dotted with some of Bel-scraper. Today, its wide array of brand-namegrades oldest restaurants and bars, where theshops and select boutiques attracts fashion-pace is set by live music and poetry. This is a conscious locals and travelers who, aftergood part of town for tasting kacamak (a po-shopping, find relaxation at the streets cafs.lenta dish). The areas vibrancy is expressed In summer, these places tend to sprawl ontoat the galleries, open-air market, and on streetthe pavement, with tables covered by color-corners, where musicians croon 19th-century ful umbrellas. On the menu: Serbian snacks,ballads. Says one local, You should only givemodern desserts, and seemingly endless cof-money to them if they make you cry.fee concoctions. Kristina Stefanova One of Belgrades swankiest night spots, Magacin 3 has cool Just beyond Belgradesconcrete walls and Old Town, tour boatswarm lighting. ply the Sava River. Knez Milhailova Street (above) is lined with up-to-the-minute shops and snack spots.alDO Pavan/sImE (TOP lEfT), walTER bIbIKOw/CORbIs (bOTTOm lEfT), maRCO Pavan/sImE (RIgHT)Dva Jelena (Skadarska 32) grill up classic NIGHTTIME! pljeskavica (see page 27). Or go modern atZaplet (Kajmakcalanska 2): Serbian artistsHeading to Belgrade? Rest up beforehelp with decor; chefs with unrelentingyou show up. The Serbian capitalopenness to anything newin the words ofis an energetic and wallet-friendly owner Vladimir Melentijevicturn out such24-hour metropolis. Start with cocktails at dishes as spicy pork belly with parsnip pure.Pastis (Strahinjica Bana 52b), one of manyFinally, digest by dancing at Black PanthersSlavic-sleek cafs along hip Strahinjica Bana (Ada Ciganlija Island) or the funky brick-Street. Rustic 19th-century restaurants likelined Plastic (Takovska 34). Seth Sherwood12 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 13 MONTENEgRO/ALBANIA skaDaR lakE: GETTING aROUND THE WaTER In the midst of steep mountains, hidden vil-lages, churches, and ruins, the clear watersof skadar lakethe Balkans largest and part of a national park of the same nameare best ap-sERgEy PODKOlzIn (TOP), sanDRa DjuRbuzOvIC DImITRIjEvIC (bOTTOm) preciated from a boat or a cabin along the south- ern shore. Numerous walking trails, some better marked than others, wind their way around the dolphin-shaped lake.The trail from the village of Vranjina up the mountain offers a pleasant hours walk past a 15th-century monastery and culminates in sweeping views of the big water. Those who brave the parks most challenging hike, to the top of 1,600-meter/5,250-foot Mount Rumija, are,Shared by two countries, Montenegro and Albania, vast Skadar Lake draws boaters, birders, fishermen, and oth- weather permitting, rewarded with a peek at the ers. It is part of a national park established in 1983, with a Adriatic Sea. Kristina Stefanova diversity of landscapes, including wetlands (below).Balkans Roundup STEEP THRILLS F or skiers, the Dinaric alpsthe long ridge of snowcapped mountains that runs down the eastern edge of the Balkan Peninsula and, farther inland, the mountains of the Durmitor Range (Montenegro) and kopaonik (Serbia) are national parks) for at least a century, and the little town of Zabljak, Montenegro (population 4,500), is the gatewaya ski village filled with hotels, small restaurants (best to make a reservation), and rental places. Zabljakliterally the high point gaining in popularity. Value-conscious winter-of the Balkansis also known for the 18 glacial sports enthusiasts, including cross-country skierslakes that surround it (Black Lake is the largest of and snowboarders, are flocking to the slopes. the bunch). Some years you can even hit the very In 1984, long before war broke out, athleteshighest slopes in summer. gathered from around the globe to compete in the kopaonik may be the least well-known of the XIV Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. Today, Mount major Balkan ski destinations, which helps explain Bjelasnica, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is still a its status as least expensive. Located in the south snow lovers choice. Due to a happy climactic of Serbia, the resort itself is a travel highlight, an coincidencethe mountain sits between Mediter-Alpine village that, in part, resembles a medieval ranean and Continental air systemsthe slopes Serbian monastery. John Marks almost always have fresh powder between Novem- ber and April.Fa s T Fa C T Winter-sports enthusiasts have been coming to People native to the rugged, forested Dinaric Alps the Durmitor Range (in one of Montenegros five are acknowledged to be the tallest in Europe. For adult males, the average height is 185.6 centime-PHOTO CREDIT TK aRbEn IslamI In Kosovos Sara Mountain National Park, the Brezovicaters/6 feet, 1 inch; the average for adult females is ski resort hosts international championships as well as 171 centimeters/5 feet, 7.3 inches. skiers keen to enjoy the excellent conditions.14 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 15 Gracanica and Decani ICONS OF YESTERDAY Surrounded by fields of grazing sheep and rustling woods, the Gracanicamonastery seems too sleepy to bear the weight of so much history, butenter the dark interior and you grasp instantly the epic nature of the place. Completed in 1321, just six decades before the battle of Kosovo Polje anDREw TEsTa/THE nEw yORK TImEs/REDux that led to Ottoman dominance, it has been repeatedly scorched by war. For a different feel, head west to Decani monastery, one of the largest medieval Orthodox places of worship in the region. About five kilometers/three miles from Pristina, Decani was built around the same time as gracanica, by King Stefan Decanski, who is buried here. The high cathedral walls gleam with 14th-century frescoesmasterpieces of the late Byzantine style. If gracanica broods with bloody memory, Decani makes the spirit soar. John Marks Women as well as men PHOTO CREDIT TK PHOTO CREDIT TK take religious vows at Gracanica. Inside the monastery are frescoes that are stun- ning in their colorful simplicity.16 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 17 ALBANIA DINE ONTRaDITION F rom the moment you enter Tradita G&T, a rustic restaurant in the mountain town of Shkoder, youre immersed in the culture and warmth of Albania. gjon Dukgilaj, the jovial owner, greets everyone with a broad smile and then proudly shows off his museum-worthy collections of traditional costumes and artifacts. Musicians play, dancers (including some diners) perform the local steps. And at one end of the stone room, a fire roars, roasting the most suc- culent lamb youll ever taste. Dinner is a feast of the vibrant flavors of the countryside, presented by formally dressed waiters (white shirts, dark pants, red cummer- bunds), course after course. All ingredients are local; the dishes, seasonal. A salad of lettuce, cabbage, and tomato bursts with flavor. Roasted farmers cheese in bubbling olive oil arrives melting, ready to be scooped up and spread on crusty bread. Meats and potatoes follow. To fin- ish it off: pastry with almonds and honey along with glasses of fruit brandy, rakija. Fortunately, the restaurant has a small hotel attached. Laurie WernerazEm RamaDanI/gETTy ImagEs (TOP), maRK ORfIla (bOTTOm), PER KaRlssOn-bKwInE.COm/alamy (OPPOsITE) KOSOVOThe road takes startling hairpin turns andplunges into tunnels to reemerge beneathTakE THE HIGH vistas of soaring peaks and alluring caves.GROUND Rock climbers will be thrilled at thechallenge of these immense rock faces,In the far western corner of Kosovo, beyond the town of Peja (or Pec, as it is known to Serbs), a narrow roadenters one of the most spectacular areasin the Balkans. Welcome to the Rugovabut they should bring their own gear. Theropes left dangling down to the road arentto be trusted. For less technical adventures,continue up the road to the villages of Bo-gaj and Stankaj, the best launching pointsIn Rugova Gorge, a rugged place of soaringGorge, where granite walls vault 609for hikes in these mountains. granite, tunnels are engineered for passage. Inmeters/2,000 feet above the Drini River. John Markscontrast to the stone are delicate wildflowers. Traditas authentic southeastern Albanian fare: white bean salad and ripe tomatoes with basil, for starters.18 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 19 SERBIAa ROMaN palaCEBalkans Roundup THEN aND NOWMYTH, O ff the beaten track in eastern Serbia, Felix Romuliana is one of the best preserved Roman settlements on Earth. Built in the third century in honor of an emperors mother, the sites palace in-LEGEND,MIRACLE cluded more than 36 towers that stood over 20 meters/65 feet high and a sophisticated bath complex that featured a precursor to the modern sauna. Impressive mosaics and sculptures creatively depicted significant T he spiritual realm has helped the people of the Balkans retain their traditions and identities as borders, place names, and governments have changed through the years. mortals and immortals of the day.In and around Sarajevo, locals tellEspecially noteworthy here are the floor the tale of the Goat Bridge, one of many mosaics, mostly geometric in their patterns that cross the Miljacka River. In one but with a central mosaic that creates an version of the story, an old shepherd impression of a third dimensiona very Clockwise from top was tending his goats when one started rare design for the period.left: Sarajevos Goatto eagerly dig at the ground. Indeed, theBridge was built inNow a UNESCO World Heritage site, the 1500s. Pilgrimsshepherd discovered that the animal Felix Romuliana is still a big part of locals make their way uphad unearthed sacks of gold. Lots of lives, especially masons who work to con-Apparition Hill, nearthem. The shepherd invested the boun-Medjugorje. The serve and restore it.stone dolls stand in ty in the construction of a bridge, whichThese ruins are the pride of the local rural Macedonia. served as the main crossing for travelers population. Folks love to bring their guestson their way to Istanbul. (In fact, the here to show them their cultural heritage, bridge was built by the Ottomans in the says archaeologist Bora Dimitrijevic. And 16th century.) ClOCKwIsE fROm TOP lEfT: alan gRanT, DamIR sagOlj/REuTERs/CORbIs, ExPlORIng maCEDOnIa.COm. OPPOsITE: svETlana mIRKOvIC the hot springs once enjoyed by RomanNear the Macedonian village of Kra- emperors are now open to the public.tovo stand 120 stone pillars, referred to Kristina Stefanova in local folklore as the kuklica, or dolls. One story says the pillars are wedding guests cursed by a forsaken bride and turned into rock. Others claim they are frozen soldiers, caught crossing a clear- ing during winter. Locals believe a new doll appears every few years. (Science says the dolls are the result of erosion.)A 1981 event put the small city of Medjugorje, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, on the map for Roman Catholics. Here, the story goes, six teenagers saw the Virgin Mary. A shrine was built to com- memorate the sighting. Some 15 million people have visited the site since the first appearance of the Virgin. It is said that she still appears to some members of the original group, now grown up.Kristina Stefanova Impressive Felix Romuliana has seen more than 17 centuries of clouds, sun, wind, and rain.20 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 21 ALBANIA WHERE CIVIlIZaTIONs lEFT THEIR MaRks The Roman poet Virgil wrote of ancientButhrotum [Butrint], I saw before meTroy in miniature, and his words conjure the sense of concentrated majesty in one of the most remarkable, complex archaeological sites inyond, says Oliver gilkes, an archaeologist who hasworked on the site. Butrint began as an Epirot city.Later, as was the case with numerous settlements,it was Hellenized. Farther on, Byzantine Chris-tians created one of the most elaborate baptistries the world. Amid the ruins of Butrint, at the head of of the ancient world. On the floor of the baptistry the Straits of Corfu, remain compelling whispers ofunfolds a tale of salvation, with mosaic animals. civilizations that rose and fell over a span of some Here, the faith of a lost world truly comes alive. 2,500 years. Butrint is almost a gateway to the Be-John Marks Ruins of Butrints baths glimpsed from the upper fortress. A golden funeral mask at the Na- tional Museum in Belgrade. MACEDONIA GOlDEN passaGE: BURIal RITUals B.C. U nearthed eight years ago at the oldest burial site at the Tsar Samuil fortress, a golden mask is shedding light on how an- cient princedoms buried their warriors. According to experts, the fifth century b.c. mask (estimated of its kind found in the Ohrid area. It is thrilling to know that the golden mask myth is an absolute sci- entific fact, says Pasko Kuzman, the archaeologist who discovered the fifth mask. It was found with a golden glove, ring, and funeral items. Two golden TOny wHEElER/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (TOP), lITany/wIKIPEDIa COmmOns worth, 18 million euros), would have been placedmasks are on display at Belgrades National Mu- on the face of a dead warrior as a way to communi-seum; two others can be seen at the archaeologicalBOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINAnaTIOnal musEum In bElgRaDE (TOP), bEsaR KRasnIqI (bOTTOm) cate with him in the afterlife. The mask is the fifth museum in Sofia, Bulgaria. Kristina StefanovaKOSOVOpEaCE aND HaRMONY Tereze Boulevard. Inside, local officials, aid S workers, and businesspeople hatch deals overtrolling among artfully crafted, centuries-old headstonespOWER lUNCHtables crowded with clay pots filled with taveelbasani (yogurt, eggs, meat) and, left, steccican be a, well, heady experience. The graveyard of Radimlja brings together peoples of various beliefs and socialpishat (Rr. Qamil Hoxha 11)savory flija (pastry). Pishatt is classesfor eternity. Its a peaceful place, nice for wandering andsits like a half-secret on a side pristinas tastiest spot for local pondering the charmingly decorated 15th- and 16th-century stones A headstoneof history.street off pedestrians-only Nenedrama. Alex Robertson Textorand the lives of the people who lived so long ago. John Marks22 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 23 Flanked by green mountains, the Danube River hits a scenic crescendo at Iron Gate gorge.SERBIABEHOlD aFaMOUs RIVER T he Danube in Austria may be better known, but for those whove traveled every mile of the river, nothing compares to the Iron Gate, the 83-mile stretch between Romania and Serbia. Its practically untouched, says Nancy Paredes, a cruise director for Avalon Waterways. Travelers dont see signs of tourism anywherejust narrow gorges and tall mountains, along with the remains of castles and Roman bridges. Plus you go through two locks, the only double lock on the Danube. To get the full effect of the waterways spectacle, sail upstream, entering the water at Lock 2, then work your way through the Lower Kazan and great Kazan gorges. Miles later you reach a scenic highpoint, with TrojansalDO Pavan/sImE Tablet carved into the rock face and golubac PHOTO CREDIT TK PHOTO CREDIT TK Castle, a well-preserved 14th-century fortress atop the Iron gate gorge. Laurie Werner24 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 25 Balkans Roundup FRUIT BRaNDY:sIp, DONT GUlp TASTES OF THE NATIONSFor those not familiar with moonshine, fire water, or grappa, a sniff of rakijathe regions fruit brandymight well bring to mind rub- bing alcohol. get over it. When in the Balkans, sip as the locals do:before dinner, over salads and mezes, or whenever. You feel a sense ofcloseness when you drink rakija with friends, says Emil Rashkov, a soccercoach living in Skopje, Macedonia. Some types of rakija are kept in oakor mulberry barrels for extra aroma and color. A special variety, served atweddings and outdoor winter festivals, is greena or topla rakija, heated andsweetened with honey, sugar, and spiceslike mulled wine.Rakija. Kristina Stefanova Supersize, the laMB? GREaT CHOICEBalkans way.A down-home eat fest is in storea few miles from the greekborder at Restaurant javor, onthe outskirts of the city of gevgelija,Macedonia. Youll enter a smoke-filled(courtesy of grilling meat, not burningtobacco) dining lodge packed with localsof all ages.ClOCKwIsE fROm TOP lEfT: RObERTO mEazza/Iml ImagE gROuP, gREg Elms/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs, mIlICa sEKulIC, balKanTRavEllERs.COm Red peppersthe A salad course materializes in stages: main ingredient in ajvar (below)delightplates of lettuce and cabbage, a bowl a child at the market in of stewed peppers, and a glass of green Ohrid, Macedonia.onionsalong with bread thats beentoasted on the grill. Next, the waiterTHE BalkaNwill tick off a choice of grilled meats,BURGERone by one. Try the incredibly tender lamb, ajVaR: RElIsH THIs!I n the former Yugoslavia, whatever the cultural dif- carved nimbly at the table. When itferences, a love of grilled meat unites the peoples ofarrives, there will be silence. One taste J ust when the red peppers are at their sweet No time? No stove? Ajvareaten on its own, the region. Folks there are serious about barbecue, and you will understand the reverence. ripest, family members from near and far used as a condiment, spread on breadis a stapleand were not just talking kebabs. An important hallmarkAlex Robertson Textor gather to make ajvar. Peppers, eggplants,of Balkan cuisine. You can find it in food shops andof the cuisine is pljeskavica, a patty usually made with chilies, and garlic are harvested, washed, roasted,restaurants all over. Kristina Stefanova ground lamb, veal, beef, and, except in Muslim areas, Fa s T Fa C T peeled, pureed with olive oil, and then left to slow pork. Served with or without bread, it can be stuffed withUsually baked though sometimes fried, cook for several hours. Its a lot of work, verykajmak cheese or topped with ajvar (see opposite page). burek is a phyllo pastry beloved in thispart of the world. Enjoyed at breakfast slow, with many breaks and a good amount of timeThe Serbian city of Leskovac claims to be the spiritualor as a snack, its fillings reflect location. spent sitting around a table, mostly drinking, says homeland of that oversize patty, and every summer itMost popular is a feta-type cheese; Zoe Konovalov, who recently made his very firstcelebrates the carnivorous heritage with a grill Special- other possibilities include cheese andspinach, meat, apple, sour cherries, batch with a local family. ties Festival. Hundreds of thousands of people attend,mushrooms, and pizza, the most mod-Its also a sensually rich experiencethe warm eating an estimated 36,287 kilograms/40 tons of meat. A ern choice. The small restaurants thatmake and serve this centuries-old fastPHOTO CREDIT TK colors of the ripe vegetables, peeling them care-typical star attraction? A 48-kilogram/105-pound pljes-food are called buregdzinica. Get close to fully, smelling the ajvar as it cooksand of course, kavica. The Big Mac made it to Serbia in the 1990s, but one and the aroma will draw you right in. tasting the end product, says Konovalov.its never upstaged the Balkan burger. John Marks26 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 27 MONTENEgROKOSOVOspIRITUalITY sET IN sTONECapITal GOOD TIMEs S ome chalk it up to the renowned Kosovar spirit of hospitality, but it may just be that pristina, unlike so many cities in the rest of Europe, seems drop into the friendly, popular Strip Depot (Rr. Rexhep Luci 6/1) for a drink. More cocktail lounge than club, its not what it sounds like. Youre apt to see intellectu- The holiest shrine in Montenegro, OstrogMonastery was carved into a sheer moun-tain cliff in the 17th century. It sits at the end of a narrow, twisty road and reveals itself slowly to visitors. Come in the morning or late Church, with its vivid frescoes. Deeper in is the main shrine, which pilgrims approach in bare feet. The humble Church of St. Stanko the Martyr is next. Finally, the Upper Monastery sits nestled in two large caves. Ostrog overlooks the Zeta Valley, to have a young-crowd vitality. One way als having a heated discussion here ratherafternoon, when the light is best. Start with the home to some of the most skilled artists in the 12th or another, the bars and nightclubs inthan anything resembling a seductive pole Lower Monastery (with single-sex dorm rooms for to 15th centuries. The legacy of their craft tradi- Kosovos capital have a reputation for stay-dance. Whether for jazz lovers or clubovernight guests). Then head to the Holy Trinitytions are reflected in Ostrog. Kristina Stefanova ing openand livelyuntil dawn. dancers, Pristina is becoming one of the Early in the evening, you might want to continents hot spots. Kristina Stefanova A 1600s feat of engin- eering, Ostrog Monas- tery was rebuilt in the 1920s, after a fire. The Strip Depot is a beloved Pristina gathering place. workers paradise, the fish farm and motel/TROUT ON THE FaRMrestaurant became a destination for a genera- tion of Yugoslavs. Now visitors from around G one are the days when Titos photo hung on a drab restaurant wall at the Trofta Fish the world are treated to exquisite indoor and outdoor dining. Tables sit on bridges,overlooking streams wherePETRIT RRaHmanI (TOP), maRK ORfIla (bOTTOm) Farm in Istog. These days, the catch of the day glistens international flags fly over in the current. Order it fried several acres of one of thewith chips, sauted in butter, most successful businesses inor grilled with olive oil andlauREnT gRanDaDam/sImE the Balkans. The star attrac-you will understand whyTrofta Fish tion is the trout. LaunchedFarm restaurant.the trout at Istog transcends in 1977 as an example of a politics. John Marks28 The Western Balkans29 ALBANIA aRTFUlREsIlIENCE T irana has had a front seat at Albanias evolu- tion from isolationist dictatorship to up-and-coming European nation. The Albanian economy surged after 2000, and the country joined NATO in 2009. Under the leadership of artist-turned-mayor Edi Rama, Tirana is becoming a vibrant capital. Artists and musicians congregate in the fashionable Bllok neighborhood, near the ClOCKwIsE fROm TOP lEfT: wITOlD sKRyPCzaK/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs, DOug mCKInlay/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs, aRmanDO babanI/EPa/CORbIs. OPPOsITE: walTER bIbIKOw/CORbIsMONTENEgRO National Academy of Arts, and Tiranas creative types have theirBalkaN choice of cafs to inspire theirFjORDlaNDmuses. One favorite is Kuki. K Jeroen van Marle, editor andotors Old Town is a diminutive, cobbled co-publisher of the In Your Pock- confection brimming with right-nowet Tirana guide, says its like a energy. Its anchored by Sveti Tryphonsmall gallery, with artwork on Cathedral, a 12th-century haunt whose reliquary the walls for sale. contains the remains of its patron saint. Ko-Pamela griffin, executive tor rocks with song and dance on summer eve-director of the Foundation for nings, not unlike Dubrovnik but looser and more Albanian Visual Arts (FAVA), dynamic. Recognizing its tourism potential, the steers travelers to artists Montenegrin government has poured money intostudios. Many artists, she infrastructure improvements since the countrys notes, were jailed or directed independence in 2006. Still, its the mountains to manual labor in the 1970s above that give this place (often referred to asif their art did not conform to Europes southernmost fjord) its credentials as a the prescribed dictates. FAVA stunner. So what if the bay is not a fjord but rather publishes a small list of studios a ria (drowned river valley)? Kotors backdrop is open to visitors. majestic and rivals Norways most dramatic fjords. Alex Robertson Textor Hardy hikers will have one goal: to ascend to the Clockwise from top: A statue com- bays famous fortification system, which is about a memorates Albanian national hero three-mile hikespread out over 1,500 stepsfromGjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg (1405- 68), who successfully challenged town. The walk features great intermediate vistas.armies of the Ottoman Empire. Edi Except for summer, there will be few fellow hikersRama, elected Tiranas mayor in sharing the path. Watch out, however, for the graz- 2000, enlivened what was a drab cityscape. Albanian artist Saimir ing goats. Alex Robertson Textor Strsti works on The Guitarist, a sweeping mosaic crafted with corks. Accounting in part for Kotors magnetic charm (top): No vehicular traffic is allowed in the citys medieval center.30 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 31 With its famous bridge, Mostar nestles in one of the Balkan peninsulas most scenic valleys. BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA a CITY aND ITs sYMBOlIC BRIDGE In a relatively dry landscape, about halfwaybetween the Adriatic Sea and the city ofSarajevo, Mostar feels like an oasis. Cradled by high limestone banks, the Neretva River flows in sparkling turquoise and sapphire, and on a hot and its a singular pleasure to watch it come back to life. Wide boulevards run between rows of plane trees, and a necklace of tempting open-air eateries runs down the long slopes leading to the river. Dont miss the squid risotto, a testament to than the 427-year-old Ottoman bridge over the Neretva River. It is known to locals as the stari, short for Stari Most, the old bridge. For cen- turies, the people of Mostar gathered on the 24-meter/78-foot arch to have a smoke and a chat. After hostilities ceased, the international com- munity rebuilt the Stari, bringing in artisans and engineers from Turkey and even using rock from the original quarry. The new version can never replace the old, but at night the copy makes for summer day, theres nothing like a swim in thosethe proximity of the Adriatic. Holding your glass Inspired to literal flights of fancy, the young men a haunting sense of continuity. For a glimpse ofgavIn HEllIER/gETTy ImagEs cool waters, followed by a walk on the eastern bank of local red or white, listening to the rush of the held diving competitions, plunging into the watersanother span, check out the Kriva Cuprijathe through the remnant of an ancient Ottoman town, river, you can catch a glimpse of the citys famous below. Then, in the 1990s, war broke out amonglittle crooked bridge, built around the same time PHOTO CREDIT TK PHOTO CREDIT TK where a cluster of old mosques looms over narrowbridge and be forgiven for thinking that Mostar,the peoples of Mostar, and the bridge became aas the 16th-century Stari (and also rebuilt), just a streets and bright cafs compete for customers. tucked away in its valley, is a Balkan Shangri-La.target, surviving countless assaults until it was few hundred feet up the western bank, spanningThis part of town was almost destroyed by war,Bridges matter in the Balkans, and none more destroyed in 1993 by artillery and heavy shelling.Rabobolja Creek. John Marks32 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 33 Balkans Roundup ALBANIAMUSICAL NOTES FOlk CapITal IN THE spOTlIGHT TRUMpET FEsTIVal: MORE THaN jUsT HORNsN ovelist Ismail Kadare wrote of his child-hood in Gjirokastra, Everything wasold Sand made of stone, covered with gray erbias biggest annual party, the Guca remarked during a concert, I didnt know youslates like gigantic scales. The image evokes a liv- Trumpet Festival routinely draws revelerscould play a trumpet like that.)ing creature, and it fits. gjirokastra, named a World by the tens of thousandseven hundreds of But equal to the horn-blowing competitionsHeritage site in 2005 for its perfectly preserved thousands, according to some estimatesfor daysis simply the effusive all-day, all-night carnivalOttoman urban center, bustles with culturally of rollicking music from veteran brass ensembles,atmosphere, which is fueled by mounds of grilledblanD asHIKu (TOP), TIm DIRvEn/PanOs (bOTTOm)vibrant energy. military bands, wedding entertainers, and virtuoso Serbian meats, cases of strong Serbian rakija (fruit One recent visitor was delighted to hear Balkan solo trumpeters who dream of becoming the next brandy; see page 27), and gallons of Serbian pivoa capella in the streets. People were practicing Miles Davis. (The famous jazz master, who once (beer). It all takes place in the western Dragacevopolyphonic [contrapuntal] singing, says gwen Al attended the trumpet festival, is reported to have region. Bring a tent to camp out. Seth SherwoodSawi, and the following evening there was folkdancing. gjirokastra is arguably the folk culture can be treated to great music and dance any week-In western Serbia,capital of the Balkans. Every five years, the city end. After the show, head for the restaurant on thethe Guca Trumpethosts a National Folk Festival with hundreds oframparts of the Kalaja fortress for a great view, aFestival bringsmagic to sum- performers from around the region, though youdrink, and a bite to eat. John Marks mer nights. The gusle is a popularregional string instrument. sOUlFUl sOUNDs strings and rhythm, a hint of Italian crooning, and TOlga sEzgIn/naRPHOTOs/REDux (TOP), RICHaRD maRCH (bOTTOm)a touch of exuberant Serbian horn. The Balkans music known as sevdalinka isone of the saddest and most stirring in theworld. Its name comes from the word sev- dah, which can refer to a lovers caress. Sevdah started as wartime songs sung by boys on the The best place to hear sevdalinka is Sarajevo,a city known for its eclecticism, but every yearthe Bosnian city of Tuzla holds a festival devotedto the hauntingly memorable music. Acts from around the region play on a series of stages, frontlines about girls, and by girls waiting at while panels of musicologists and sociologists home, says Emir gacanovic, manager of thediscuss the finer points of the tradition. Sevdah Art House in Sarajevo.Note: Tuzla is known for its hip-hop music,The passionate tales of yearning andtoo, so dont be surprised if a sevdalinka desireand the music itselfcombineplayer suddenly breaks into a rhythmic rapTwo faces of Gjirokastra: An everyday momenta haircut and conversation at a small barber shopunwinds in a city ancient strains of Turkish love songs, gypsynumber. John Markswhose buildings are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dancers take the spotlight (top) at a lively festival.34 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 35 ALBANIA sTONEs OFTHE DIsTaNT pasT MONTENEgRO About 8 kilometers/5 miles from thesouthwestern town of Fier, a center of Al-banias oil and chemical industries, are thesEaFOOD: vestiges of the grand city of apollonia. Founded, ac- FROM WaTER cording to ancient writers, by greeks from CorinthTO plaTE I and Corfu in 588 b.c, it later became a Roman city, siding with Julius Caesar in the civil war withtaly, just across the Adriaticfrom Montenegro, exerts adelightfully major influence on the cuisine, especially the seafood. Typical are prstaci, mol- lusks cooked in a broth of garlic, white wine, and parsley; squid sauted with butter and garlic; and the local tuna, mussels, and prawns also simply prepared. Inland, carp from Lake Skadar is smoked and used in a dish with the unfortunate name krap. The lake fish bleak is also smoked and driedfor the dish ukljeva.Back at the waters edge, scattered along the coastline are postcard-worthy villages with Pompey. It flourished until the third century a.d., seafood restaurants. Among when an earthquake changed the path of the Vjosathe most beautiful: Herceg Novi, River. The harbor dried up and the city declined. kotor, and perast, a UNESCOBy the 13th century, after the citys swamplandWorld Heritage site on the Bay had expanded, resulting in outbreaks of malaria,of kotor (see page 30). At the the citys residents had moved elsewhere. Oversouthern tip of the country, the time, movements in the earth buried the city. town of Ulcinj and ada Bojana Austrian archaeologists began to excavate during(an island in the Bojana River)faR: lEfT TOny wHEElER/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs all OTHERs: lauREnT gRanDaDam/sImE World War I, a process that continues today; it are particularly known for their is believed that most of the city is still deep below seafood restaurants. From some Apollonias hills.of these spots, diners can watchAmong the most striking remains are the six col- their dinner being caught in a umns and facade of the Monument of Agonothetescalimera, an arc-shaped contrap- (once part of the citys administrative center), from tion with a net that skims the the second century a.d., and the Odeon, a 300-seatwaters surface. Laurie Werner theater where the Roman Emperor Augustus stud- ied in his younger days (today, it is occasionally the setting for concerts). The 13th-century Monastery Sea pleasures, clockwise from top of St. Mary keeps the past protected, housing stat- left: Squid grilled with parsley and ues and other artifacts discovered in the process oflemon, a mix of fresh fish and shell- excavation. Kristina Stefanova fish, the pretty fishing center of Kotor Bay, and catch of the day. Excavations at the site of Apollonia (top) began in the early 20th century; much still remains buried.36 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 37 Biogradsko Lake is one of seven glacial lakes in Montenegros Biogradska Gora National Park.Balkans RoundupA WEALTH OF NATIONAL PARKS Talk about an embarrassment of riches.There are 32 national parks in the sixcountries featured here, so whether yourepointed. Albania offers perhaps the largest stretchof pristine national parkland for hikers. Lots of it isquite wild. Feeling adventurous? Hire a guide andthe continents last ancient forests. sara MountainNational park in Kosovo is remoteone of the onlyplaces in Europe where wildlife lovers might actu-donia, mountain bikers can take a challenging34-kilometer/21-mile spin around Mavrovo Lakeor a ride up into the dairy-farm-dotted hills. FruskaalEnanDER sHCHuKIn looking for a pocket of some of the continents last head to llogaraja pass, which has overnight accom-ally see a bear or a wolf. Biogradska Gora National Gora National park in Serbia beckons visitors to itsPHOTO CREDIT TKPHOTO CREDIT TK primeval forest, mountain-biking trails throughmodations. In Bosnia and Herzegovinas sutjeska park in Montenegro is a magnet for mountaineers Orthodox monasteries. Wander the hills, and youll limestone karst, or a hike in a countryside paradise National park, ancient stands of black pine and eager to test their skills on the sheer rock faces of think youre in a century long, long gone. still teeming with wildlife, you wont be disap- beech tower high above unspoiled rivers in one of Mount Bjelasica. At Mavrovo National park in Mace- John Marks38 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 39 BOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINACUlTURE BYTHE CUpFUlD rinking coffee is asmuch art as pastimehere. Just ask the locals.Its preparation, as they will ear-nestly tell you, requires just theright touch of grace and skill. Ofcourse, its important to get thename right. Serbs and Monte-negrins call the beverage kafa.Croats prefer kava, and Bosniansgo with the long drawl of kahva. Next, you need the rightimplement. Thats the dzezva, SERBIA a metal pot with a long, thinhandle on one end, a spout onROYalTY,the other. The grounds go in the IN THE END pot, boiling water is poured over Lthem, and then both are boiled. ook for the heart of modern SerbianOnce the grounds are skimmed history, and youll find Black george Petro- off the top, the coffee is ready to vicKaradjordje to Serbswho staged abe served, a strong, thick brew rebellion against the Ottoman Turks in 1804 andin a small cup, neither as light as launched his people on the road to nationhood.maRC-anDR COssETTE (TOP), RICHaRD lansOn/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (bOTTOm, bOTH). OPPOsITE: KaTaRIna sTEfanOvICespresso nor as muddy as Turk- Two hundred years later, a Karadjordje, Crownish. Bosnians dont generally put Prince Alexander, still sits at the head of thesugar in the cup. They either Serbian royal family. His forebears lie in state 80dunk a sugar cube and eat it or kilometers/50 miles south of Belgrade in the Royal put the cube between their teeth Mausoleum of the saint George Church in Oplenac. and drink the coffee through it. In the midst of pine trees and gardens, five genera-A piece of Turkish delight and tions rest in a white marble church that is more lots of conversation typically national shrine than place of worship, though theaccompany the hot brew. For an two are often one and the same in Serbia. Two of authentic experience, go to the the family, Black george himself and King Petermarkets of Bascarsija in Sara- I, lie in tombs in the church proper. The remain-jevo, where locals take pride in ing 19 can be found in the mausoleum below. Thetheir caf-hopping abilities. 1,497-kilo/3,300-pound chandelier hanging fromBut whatever you do, dont sip the central dome commemorates the battle at theand run. John Marks Field of Blackbirds in 1389, the beginning of Otto- man rule. A series of brilliantly colored mosaicsA crossroads between east and west, depicts Bible scenes copied from medieval SerbianSarajevo (top) boasts a sophisticatedcoffee tradition. In the old Turkish monasteries. John Marks quarter: a coffee vessel (left) andfolks relaxing over coffee (right). The mausoleum at Oplenac (top) is venerated throughout Serbia for its historic importance and rich mosaics.40The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 41 KOSOVO OTTOMaN lEGaCIEsO ff the beaten path, prizrens lushgreenery, burbling river, and oldstone mosque conjure up the Ot-toman past like no other city on the Balkanpeninsula. The Turks left this region about Walk into the Serbian neighborhoodbehind the Sinan Pasha, further still intothe past. The ruins of the 14th-century St.Saviour Church and the medieval/OttomanKalaja Fortress are atmospheric reminders ofa century ago, but on the streets along the centuries gone by. Finally, dont miss the Or-Lumbardh River, their culture lives on. Start thodox Cathedral Church of the Holy Virginwith the Sinan Pasha Mosque, looming over of Leviska, on the other side of the river. Aa 15th-century stone bridge. Richly painted World Heritage site built in the 12th to 14thinside, the Sinan Pasha has been restored centuries, it brims with fresco masterpieces.to some of its former glory. Stop for coffee, Their survival over time is reason enough todrinks, or a bite at a Shadervan Square caf. make the trip to Prizren. Kristina Stefanova MACEDONIATHE lakE, THE pEOplE, THE plaCE, THE pEaRls I t takes one look to understand why Mace- Another draw? The local fare, including by far donians refer to the city of Ohrid as the jewelthe best fish soup I ever tasted, says Skopje nativeGirl talk fills the air in their crown. Add in the lake of the sameMartin Nikolovski, who was in a rowboat on Ohrid near Lumbardh River. In the background: the name and you have a surf-and-turf World Heritage when he proposed to his girlfriend.citys famed mosque. site. Inhabited since Neolithic times, this area hasSummer festivals attract performers from all more than 200 churches, holy sites, and museums. over the world. Year-round, senses are engagedin varied ways: Stroll a 2,000-year-old greek am-phitheater, imagine life during the Middle Ages asfunctions as the first line of defense for theyou walk the grounds of the Tsar Samuil fortress,marvel at the craftsmanship at the Icon galleryTHOmas gRabKa/laIf/REDux (TOP), ElIzabETH gOwIng (bOTTOm)sWEET DREaMskulla, a series of centuries-old stone buildings.Kulla literally means tower, and these placesTof Ohrid. And, by all means, sift through antiques, his corner of Kosovo boasts a rich and were actually fortified dwellings, with win-rugs, wood carvings, Lake Ohrid pearls (made ancient heritage, but how to preservedows high up for surveying the terrain. Somefrom fish scales), and paintings at the bazaar.RObERTO mEazza/Iml ImagE gROuP (bOTH) and protect it when 80 percent were destroyed in the Wind up your visit at St. Sofia, one of Macedo- Kullatheres little money and even less Kosovo War, but those in Dranocnias most important monuments; through its sto- B&B.experience in the realm of sus-have survived and are thriving (inried history it has served as mosque, warehouse,tainability? One answer lies in thea gentle turn of history) as placesand cathedral. The impressively restored interiorvillage of Dranoc, where a fledg-for visitors to find peace andfeatures frescoes from the 11th, 12th, and 13th cen- The Lake Ohrid landscape (top) changes with weatherling bed-and-breakfast businessquiet. John Marks and time of day but always enchants. As for souvenirs, turiessome of the most significant achievements Ohrid pearls (above) are well-priced and easy to pack. in Byzantine painting. Kristina Stefanova42 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 43 SERBIACITY lIGHTs: sMall, CUlTURED, sOpHIsTICaTED M ost of Serbia looks east to Russia or south to Turkey for its cultural influences, but go to Novi sad and you breathe the air of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, emphasis on Hungarian. The compact city sits onThe Novi Sad Synagogue, in particular, is a mas-terpiece of Austro-Hungarian times. It shows thepower and prestige of the Jews when they werea major force in this very sophisticated CentralEuropean city, says Edward Serotta, a photogra- the banks of the Danube as the river winds its way pher, filmmaker, and historian who has traveled south from Budapest to Belgrade. the region extensively. John MarksArrive by water. The city gets your attention as the fortress of Petrovara- How many towns have din looms into view. Eighty-eight years waterfalls? Jajce does, along with medieval in the making, the fortress fended off catacombs. Turkish onslaughts for centuries, but maRKa/alamy (TOP), PaTRICK HORTOn/lOnEly PlanET ImagEs (bOTTOm) dont let this famous sight mislead you about the spirit of the place. Novituring industry; in the early 15th century, though,BOSNIA AND HERZEgOVINA Sad is one of the most comfortable the fortress was the heart of the medieval Bosnian and easygoing cities on the Balkan kingdom. Little remains inside the battlements, peninsula.Stroll the Beogradski Kej along the GRaCE aND CHaRMbut dont miss a walk on the walls. Soak in theviews and youll see why the place has been inhab- B Danube, stopping for hot chocolate or ritish writer Rebecca West once called ited sinceat leastthe dawn of recorded history. a piece of sour cherry piea local fa-jajce a town of extravagant beauty, andIts gorgeous and defensible. A must-see Mithraic voriteand youll get the idea. In sum- its easy to see why. It climbs to a great temple testifies to the antiquity of the place. Mil- laDI KIRn/alamy mer, head to a beach along the river or gray fortress overlooking ribbons of waterfallslennia later, Marshal Tito founded the YugoslavWith fun, cozy cafs such as Alla Lanterna, pedestrians-only shop- lose yourself in the art nouveau streets and-stroll zones in the Old Town, and Danube River location, Novi Sadthat drop almost 21 meters/68 feet into pools be-state here, and you can visit the catacombs where of the town center.rewards a visit. Its Serbias second largest city (after Belgrade). low. Today, Jajce lives off the chemical manufac-he hid from the invading Nazis. John Marks44 The Western Balkans National Geographic Traveler 45 WESTERN BALKANS SOURCEBOOKCOUNTRY FaCTs aND REsOURCEsThis corner of the world rewards the traveler in many ways. From treasures of the past to fine food and wine, pleasures await in six countries whose total size is less than half that of spain.Herewith, some details and sources so you can find out more. alBaNIa BOsNIa aND HERZEGOVINa COUNTRY sTaTs COUNTRY sTaTs Capital TiranaCapital sarajevo Population 3,639,453Population 4,613,414 Area 28,748 square kilometers/11,100 square miles Area 51,197 square kilometers/19,767 square miles Highest point mount Korabit, 2,764 meters/Highest point maglic mountain, 2,386 meters/ 9,068 feet7,828 feet Currency the lekCurrency the convertible mark ONlINE REsOURCEsONlINE REsOURCEs National Tourist Organization of AlbaniaTourism Association of the Federation of www.albaniantourism.com Bosnia and Herzegovina Outdoor Albania www.bhtourism.ba/eng www.outdooralbania.comExploring Bosnia and Herzegovina Albania Holidayswww.exploringbosnia.com www.albania-holidays.comGreen Visions www.greenvisions.ba/gv/ DID YOU kNOW? In albania, nodding the head up and down is a wayDID YOU kNOW? to communicate no. shaking the head from left toThe city of Tuzla gets its name from tuz, Turkish right signals yes.for salt. Tuzlas salt comes from saltwater springs. mother Teresa is albanias most famous person. Residents of the village of lukomir, high in the Clockwise from left: In Montenegro, A raft trip down the Tara River is a dreamlike spree, says Richard Bangs, co-founder she was baptized in skopje in 1910, when albaniamountains, maintain one of Europes oldest life-of Mountain Travel Sobek. In Tirana, Albanias Skanderbeg Square is the place to be on a sunny day. Skopje, Macedonias was part of the Ottoman Empire. styles, wearing traditional clothing and opting to live National Art Gallery was originally Turkish baths. Opposite: Marshal Tito in Cyrillic on a Macedonian street sign. without running water and electricity. kOsOVOMaCEDONIaMONTENEGROsERBIa COUNTRY sTaTs COUNTRY sTaTsCOUNTRY sTaTs COUNTRY sTaTs Capital PristinaCapital skopje Capital Podgorica Capital belgrade Population 1,804,838Population 2,066,718 Population 672,180Population 7,379,339 TOP lEfT anD uPPER RIgHT: alDO Pavan/sImE. lOwER RIgHT: massImO PIzzOCaRO/alamy Area 10,887 square kilometers/4,203 square milesArea 25,713 square kilometers/9,928 square miles Area 13,812 square kilometers/5,333 square milesArea 77,474 square kilometers/29,913 square miles Highest point mount gjeravica/Deravica, Highest point golem Korab (maja e Korabit),Highest point bobotov Kuk, 2,522 meters/Highest point midzor, 2,169 meters/7,116 feet 2,656 meters/8,713 feet 2,764 meters/9,068 feet8,274 feetCurrency the dinar Currency the euro Currency the denar Currency the euroONlINE REsOURCEs ONlINE REsOURCEsONlINE REsOURCEs ONlINE REsOURCEsNational Tourism Organization of Serbia Visit KosovoExploring MacedoniaNational Tourism Organization of Montenegro www.serbia.travel/ http://visitkosova.org/?page=2,4www.exploringmacedonia.com www.montenegro.travel/index_en.html Serbia Travel Guide Experience Kosovo BlogMacedonia Timeless Montenegro Adventures www.serbia-travel-guide.info http://experiencekosovo.wordpress.com www.macedonia-timeless.com www.montenegro-adventures.comDID YOU kNOW? DID YOU kNOW? DID YOU kNOW?DID YOU kNOW? belgrade is one of the oldest cities in Europe, first Kosovo, entirely surrounded by mountains, is about Half the population of macedonia is under 35The countrys name (black mountain) doesntsettled in the third century b.c. by the Celts. one-fourth the size of switzerland. years old. begin to reflect montenegros 117 beaches.The Roman emperor Constantine the great was loosely translated, the name Kosovo means field whats all the buzz about? There are more thanTara River Canyon is Europes longest and deepest. born in nis, serbia, sometime after a.d. 280. of blackbirds. 80,000 beehives in macedonia. PIERRE-yvEs sanCHIsa R E s O U R C E F O R T H E E N T I R E R E G I O N Balkan Travellers, www.balkantravellers.com, is aninspiring e-zine that offers cultural, historical, and culinary tidbits on 11 Balkan countries.46 The Western BalkansNational Geographic Traveler 47 A nAtionAl geogrAphic trAveler & usAid speciAl supplement