HUMANITIES 1

ART OF MUSLIM FOOD AND COOKING

TITLE: Mangan Tanu! (Let’s Eat!): A selection of Muslim food and its art

OBJECTIVES:

To characterize the art and the culture behind the food of the Muslims in

Mindanao especially in Davao City

To trace the processes and beliefs behind on every dish that we are

featuring

To determine the sources of the art and the aesthetics that derive from the

stages of their food preparation

To define the differences of the cuisines of the different Islamic tribes of

Mindanao who are also present in Davao City

To classify the different dishes of our Muslim brothers and sisters to the

tribes who made it famous

OBJECTIVES WILL:

Help us appreciate the cuisines and the processes used to prepare dishes

by our Muslim brothers and sisters

Make us more open to the different indigenous palates that we have never

tasted before such as the cuisine of Muslims

Help us learn the techniques and the art of Muslim cooking that are not

only found in ARMM but also all over Mindanao such as Davao City

Make us understand better the culture and the eating customs of our

Muslim brothers and sisters through food

Help us become passionate on keeping the art of Muslim food alive

DISCUSSION AND REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE

DUDUL

Dudul is a sweet delicacy of the Maguindanaon Muslim tribe that is

typically served during gatherings or kanduli. It is made from ingredients

such as coconut butter, brown malagkit, sugar and some fruits like durian

(the purpose of which is to give the dudul its flavor). These ingredients are

native and readily available in Mindanao.

The process of making a dudul is a long and painstaking one. According

to Aling Jo, the person whom we asked to cook it for us, a Maguindanaon

Muslim herself, a dudul that is prepared 12:00 in the noon will

approximately be cooked by 7:00 in the evening, and will even take longer

for most grand ceremonies. The fact that it requires such great effort to

prepare it makes it an almost indispensable part during celebrations. It

connotes perseverance and hard work.

Despite being a wide favorite for most Mindanaon Muslims, the dudul is

not something that most Muslims can afford. There are only a few

individuals who are skilled in cooking it, and most often, only rich Muslim

families can afford to hire them. In the case of Aling Jo, she learned the art

from her mother, who in turn, learned it from her ancestors.

There are beliefs held by the Maguindanaons concerning the process of

cooking the dudul. For one, the cooks try to limit their conversations as

they believed it will cause the dudul to lose its taste. There is also the

practice of prohibiting as much as possible anyone besides the cooks to

see the cooking itself because this is believed to greatly diminish the

sweetness of the dudul.

The dudol, with its creamy and sticky texture, is whisked through the use

of a kaluda, a wooden ladle approximately the size of a man. Traditional

cooks would mix lots of coconut butter into the concoction to keep it from

sticking to the pan, but cooking oil will do too. After it is cooked, it is

wrapped with a greased banana leaf and then served cold.

PASTIL

Pastil is a Maguindanaon delicacy which is not only famous in Maguindanao and

Cotabato area but also in different places around Mindanao. It is steamed rice

topped with meat and wrapped in a banana leaf. Often, chicken or fish meat is

used for pastil but beef meat can also be used. It can be eaten directly or paired

with another viand. Pastil is consumed on a traditional way by peeling the

banana leaf and is eaten like suman or it can be used with a spoon and fork in

some eating places. The steps in preparing pastil is quite simple but the art of

wrapping it in a banana life is the one that makes it distinct from Western-style

fast food which are placed in plastic containers. The first step of preparing pastil

is to shred the chicken or other meats like fish or beef cooked in garlic, onions,

ginger and other spices and seasonings into small pieces. Then after shredding

the meat, the banana leaves are put into surface and is coated with cooking oil or

sauce from the prepared meat. After the leaf is coated, steamed rice is placed on

the leaf. Next, the meat is placed on top of the rice in the leaf. Lastly, it is

wrapped and the process of making pastil is done. The delicacy is not only

famous among the members of the Maguindanao tribe but also to other

Islamized tribes in Mindanao like the Maranao. In Lanao, where the Maranao

people came from, the dish is called patir. The dish is very popular among

students and budget-conscious people who want to fill their growling stomachs at

a reasonable price and the pastil of the Maguindanao people is one of the foods

that can be eaten on the go without using utensils.

CHICKEN PIAPARAN

This Muslim cuisine specifically belongs to the culinary affluence of the

Maranaos, a Moro ethnic group predominantly located in the island of Mindanao

whose name translates in English as “people of the lake” that denotes to the

geographical landmark in their home region which is Lake Lanao. Chicken

Piaparan, as also commonly observed with other Maranao dishes, is visually lush

with the shade of yellow that is primarily due to one of the staple Maranao

ingredients called kalawag (pulverized turmeric) which they believe to have

medicinal properties. It also contains an indispensible ingredient in most of their

dishes called palapa which could also be eaten raw as an appetizer. Palapa

consists of ginger, chili (labuyo and bell pepper- Maranaos prefer to use them in

generous amounts to intensify the spice) and shallot (natively known as

Sakurab). Another ingredient is the Papar which refers to the grated coconut

meat that is not pressed, leaving its natural juice within. Traditionally, native

chicken is used as the main meat ingredient of the dish but due to its paucity and

costliness especially for those Maranaos who live in metropolitan areas, the

usage of commercial poultry chicken is acceptable. It is also to be noted that

Piaparan dishes can deviate from the usual chicken meat ingredient as long as it

is not barred by Halal, the Islamic law governing the foods they eat. Minor

ingredients of the dish includes onion, ginger and optional seasonings such as

salt and black pepper. The process of cooking this dish begins with boiling the

chicken in water mixed with Kalawag until the chicken blood has been internally

rid of. While the chicken is being boiled, the Palapa, onion, ginger and the other

optional seasonings are sautéed on another pan. When the chicken is cooked, it

is transferred to the sautéing pan leaving the chicken broth with kalawag aside to

be served as the soup component of the dish. The Papar is also added together

with an additional kalawag in order to bring flavor to the dry component of the

dish. The ingredients in the sautéing pan are then mixed until it turns yellowish as

brought by the natural coloring element of the kalawag. After which, both the dry

and soup component of the dish is served.

FINDINGS AND CONCLUSION

Beyond the usual unpleasant notions towards the minority of our Muslim

brothers and sisters, there exists a magnificent work of art essential to their

culture and tradition. This delightful creation is exemplified by their daily pursuit of

fulfilling their primary need that is food. The wide array of Muslim delicacies

ranges from the most typical to more sophisticated, hard-to-prepare cuisines and

exclusively Muslim cookeries. The study of which makes our mouth water for that

distinct full-flavored tastes only the Muslim can artistically craft

Fortunately, Davao City offers a rich diversity of Muslim tribes,

Maguindanaon, Tausug, Subanen and T’boli- more than enough to substantially

characterize the culture and art of Muslim Food. After sometime of immersion

with the community in Barangay 23-C in Boulevard and visitation at the Islamic

Center in Front of SM City Davao, we actually experienced cooking and culinary

adventure the Muslim way. It’s been a pleasure as well as an opportunity for

learning being in search for knowledge and information about this flourishing

local art in Davao.

“Halal” which means “permitted” or “lawful” are Islamic dietary guidelines

which enlists specific foods to which are allowed to be consumed by Muslims

according to the Qur’an. Foods not included in this list are “Haram”,

(Holy Qur'an, 5:3) meaning “forbidden” by Islamic Law. Pork and pork by-

products as well as alcohol and Intoxicants are some of the more highly refrained

food by the Muslims.

Given this standing rule in their faith, Muslims in Mindanao resort to a

strict preparation in food that is Halal and at the same time available with a

sufficient source. Raw ingredients from poultry, cattle, fish and from our native

food stuff which is rice or flour are more commonly used.

Any other Filipino food makers use the same ingredients but the unique

processes, customizations and the culture incorporated therein as done by the

Muslim cooks make Muslim food indeed special. In this light, we view in a special

manner that Muslim food is certainly an art.

The Distinguishing Features of Muslim Food is the YELLOW COLOR, the

intensity of its chilly hot taste and for pick-a-pica foods its deliberate sweetness

through ample sugar. Generally speaking, the use of coconut milk in Muslim

foods is peculiar. Muslims usually make foods which have long life spans and are

easily preserved.

Tracing the roots of this Filipino Muslim, food preparation is directly

entwined with the Islamic Faith. Specific dishes which are viscous and compact

like the DUDOL are specially prepared for occasions to signify the strong bond of

family members. The ceremonial offering of an animal to be slain for food is

called “SUMBALI” in the local Muslim dialect. This is done by saying a verse of

prayer of thanksgiving to Allah before actually slaughtering the animal, say the

Chicken used for cooking Pastil.

After food is served, the time to savor its taste comes. Eating is a special

matter of faith in Islam. Muslim dietary practice is fundamentally about obeying

God. All practicing Muslim believers obey God Almighty by eating the allowed

foods (halal) and avoiding the forbidden foods (haram). It has been stated in

Islam teaching that one must think and contemplate in every item of food eaten

by remembering God the creator the Designer, The Organizer and the Provider.

Moreover, it is important to eat only when you are hungry. When you do eat, you

should not eat in excess. A true Muslim also must think of the hungry when

eating.

Major holidays in the Islam Religion feature a sacred role of food feasts

and fasting. Ramadan, the fasting month provides Muslims to perform acts of

self-denial and pious works of charity and penance. It is during this time when

our Muslim brothers and sisters will have to restrict their food intake during the

time when the sun is up. As a result, they need to prepare food at night and early

in the morning. As researched, this is the perfect time when a study on Muslim

delicacies should be studied since there is a plenty of subjects to be covered.

After this, Eid al-Fitr, the feast of end of Ramadan is celebrated.

Muslim food and preparation is clearly established by its strong

foundations anchored in communal faith, action and tradition. The process of

passing on the knowledge from the earlier generations to the next was achieved

primarily through observation and direct teaching. Up to date, the makers of this

wonders turns out to be our peers, guys and gals of our age. We can therefore

conclude that the continuity of this art through food in secured at the very least.

Its notable also that here in Davao City, the food preparation has evolved

from its origins in the provinces of Cotabato, Maguindanao and Lanao. Cooks of

a Halal restaurant in Davao City admitted that a lot has changed from the original

traditional recipe and ingredients. It has to adapt the commercial demands in this

highly-urbanized area which commands a shift from the genuine food towards a

more viable style of cooking.

It is therefore a challenge for everyone to help maintain this art that our

brothers and sisters humbly own and gladly share with us. On our part as mere

viewers, it is an eye-opener that there is indeed something superb here in the

South. It’s not just killing, war and unrest. Instead of dropping you jaw criticizing

Mindanao as a place of terrorism, try to put your taste buds to test with what this

people you know can bring you to the table.

By this study, we have opened our palates to a new wonderful world of

Muslim luscious delicacies which speaks more than its deliciousness but more of

its tradition. We have appreciated the artistic processes which we discovered to

be rooted in culture and faith. We are inspired by the sustained development of

the Muslim love for food by the way the knowledge is transmitted continually. And

lastly, we prove to ourselves that finding art is in the tip of your tongue, that

Davao is not only where life is, but also where Muslim Food is, and so therefore,

where art is.

DOCUMENTATION

PASTIL

DUDOL

CHICKEN PIAPARAN

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