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Module 4

©Creedons College 2014

Module 5 – Nail care, ear care, and nail

and ear abnormalities and issues

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Welcome

As always, this is an extremely important module! We will look at the correct way for a dog

grooming professional to care for the nails and ears of any canine clients. We will also go above

and beyond, looking at abnormalities of the nails and ears, and explore dentition and parasites

to provide our students with as much information, and therefore knowledge, as possible.

As like many things, correct nail and ear care takes practice to perfect, and nail clipping

especially becomes a skill that you must practice to master.

However, this module will give you plenty to think about and will help you get your head around

this aspect of dog grooming prior to being ‘let loose’ on a real live dog!

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Nail Anatomy and Care

A dog’s nail is made of a tough protective protein called keratin. They can also be called

claws, and consist of a hard outer shell and a soft cuticle in the centre which has nerve and

a blood vessel. The cuticle is typically referred to as the “quick” of the nail. If the quick is

cut, the nail will bleed and the dog will feel pain.

On light-coloured nails, it is easy to see the quick (as pictured below). Many dogs have black

or darker- coloured nails, making it impossible to see the quick. The nail anatomy is still

the same.

Why Do We Clip Dogs Nails?

Like in humans, dog nails are constantly growing. While some dogs, particularly heavy

dogs, keep their nails filed naturally through walking on hard surfaces, many dogs don’t

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and require regular clipping. Even heavy dogs often need their dewclaws (the little ‘thumb’)

clipped as this does not file on the ground.

A dog’s paws tell them a lot about their ‘world’, from the substrate that they are walking on,

to the angle of the ground. In the dogs paws they have many proprioceptors, sensory

neurons which tell the brain where the ground is. Overgrown nails can often push the dog’s

paws off the grounds surface, causing the brain to become confused with where the ground

is, and affecting the dogs balance and confidence. Overgrown nails are also very painful so

it is vital that the dog’s nails are clipped regularly.

Many dogs only visit the vets once a year if at all. Most dog owners are not confident or

aware about nail clipping at home, so it is down to the dog groomer to proactively promote

healthy nails.

Finally, long nails can easily get caught on something and become partially torn off or split.

This is very painful for a dog, and treating a torn nail may require sedation at your vet's

office.

Clipping the dog’s nails are part and parcel of being a dog groomer. Often many groomers

are very nervous of cutting the nails to begin with, so it's important to focus on this section

of the module so you feel that bit more confident when you first cut a nail.

Dogs nails can be clear or black, or even both on the same paw.

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It's important to understand the anatomy of the dogs nails so that you understand what you

are doing when clipping the nail.

The dogs nail is not all just nail. There is a blood vessel that grows in the core of the nail. As the

nail grows longer, so too does the blood vessel, though not as fast.

The blood vessel is called the 'quick'. It is full of nerve endings and if you cut the quick you will

cause the dog a lot of pain.

It is important that you avoid doing this, though black nails are always much harder to cut than

clear nails.

Sometimes you will have abnormal quick growth. by this I mean you may be clipping the nails

on a dog, and they may all have short quicks and long nails, meaning you can cut quite a bit of

nail off, but there may be one nail that actually has a long quick.

What this means is that, with black nails, you must always cut each nail little by little.

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How Often Do I Need to Trim a Dog's Nails?

The answer depends on the dog, but you can judge very easily on how often nail clipping is needed

by asking the dog owner when did the dog last have its nails clipped. The rate of nail growth versus

the amount of natural wear can vary from dog to dog. To determine when it's time for a nail trim,

a good rule of thumb is to trim a dog's nails if they touch the floor when he is standing. You can tell

this to your clients, and if they hear the dog’s nails tapping off tiled or wooden floors when walking,

then they are too long. In general, most dogs will need a nail trim every month or two. The front

nails tend to grow faster that the rear nails, so you may only need to trim the rear nails every other

time you do the front (or just trim a smaller amount off the rear nails each time).

How Soon Should I Begin Trimming My New Dog or Puppy's Nails?

Often vets or dog breeders will tell dog owners to wait until they are older to clip the nails, but in

reality it should be done right away! You should recommend to puppy owner clients that they begin

handling their dog's paws from the moment you bring him home. He should get used to the

sensation and associate it with a positive experience (treats, toys, attention). Hold a dog's paws and

play with his toes several times a day. This will make nail trims much easier down the road.

Nail Clipping Tools

Before you begin a dog's nail trim, be sure you have the right equipment. First and foremost, you

must choose your nail trimmers. There are a few styles of nail trimmers available. The right choice

depends on the size of a dog's nails and your own preference. These are the main types of nail

trimmers available on the market today

Guillotine style

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This style of nail trimmer has an internal blade and a hole to line up the nail. You place the dogs

nail in the hole provided and squeeze.

When the handle is squeezed, the blade comes up to trim the nail, kind of like an upside-down

guillotine. Many beginners find this type of trimmer very easy to use. However, it is very important

to hold this trimmer in the correct manner so that it works properly. The handle should be down

below the dog's paw, with the nail hole at the top. The screws on the trimmer should be facing

towards a dog. The nail should then be lined up inside the hole at the right spot to make the cut.

The internal blade on guillotine trimmers can be replaced when it becomes dull. Guillotine

trimmers work best for small to medium size nails. They are not ideal for very large or very small

nails.

You cannot cut angles when using the guillotine nail clippers so you may find that you have less

control.

Scissors style

These trimmers work just like a pair of scissors. Rather than a flat cutting surface, they have a

curved blade to cut the round nail. Simply line up the blade with the nail at the appropriate spot

and make the cut. These trimmers are only useful for smaller nails, as they are typically not strong

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enough for the larger nails. However, at Creedons College we will often use a scissors style nail

clippers on larger nails when we are cutting the nail from side angles.

Pliers style

These trimmers are often the preferred choice among professionals. Pliers style trimmers work in

a similar manner to the scissors style trimmers, but with more force. They are spring-loaded and

the mechanism resembles garden pruners. The small/medium size is great for small and medium

size nails. The large size typically works well on all nail sizes except the very small ones (they can

leave the ends of small nails frayed). These are easy to use and tend to stay sharp for a long time.

The blades, however, are not replaceable and can eventually dull (though it usually takes years).

Other Nail-Trimming Equipment

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Styptic Powder

If you cut the nail too short, it will bleed. This is going to happen in your career, don’t panic, the

bleeding will stop and the dog will survive!

Styptic powder can stop the bleeding very quickly and it fairly easy to apply.

Push the dogs nail into a small bit of styptic powder, and then use your finger to push the powder

firmer and more compact onto the nail, then keep a hold of the dog’s paw for about a minute to

allow the bleed to stop (and to avoid the dog pushing the powder off the nail on the table).

How Do I Clip?

As you can see in the above picture, there is a very very thin membrane around the quick. you

can often see this membrane with the naked eye on clear nails. Your aim is to cut up to this

membrane but no further.

There are some nerves in the membrane so the dog will feel this but it will not cause pain, more

of a strange feeling.

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The picture above clearly shows the nail quick. When you feel the dogs nail, clear or black, you

will usually find a curve before the nail grows downward toward the ground. This can be

described as like a parrot’s beak. When you cut the nail you can usually take all of the

downward beak part, though be careful.

When you cut the nail you want to cut at an angle to ensure you remove as much nail as

possible. Trim little by little until the nail removed resembles the red line. then, little by little

cut more to the white line.

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When you cut the dogs nails, you should take lots and lots of little clips. This will minimise the

chances of hitting the quick.

1) Hold your nail clippers over the nail where you plan on cutting (the first cut is to remove

the ‘beak’ tip so even with a black nail, you should be able to see if the dogs nail has a beak

to cut)

2) Apply light pressure

3) If the dog does not respond, pinch the clippers firmly and quickly to cut the nail

4) Inspect the nail – can you see the membrane?

5) If not, repeat, cutting the front, back and both sides of the nail in a 1mm cut at a time.

The goal is to expose the membrane around the quick, but not hit the quick itself. Of course,

this takes practice, but if you can expose the softer, almost fleshy membrane then as the dog

walks naturally it will cause the membrane and quick to recede, allowing the nail to recover

eventually back to a normal length.

To clip the dogs nails and to teach the dog to enjoy it, these are the steps to follow

1) Hold paw, give a treat, release. Work on all paws.

2) Show clippers, treat. Hide again.

3) Hold paw and touch with nail clipper. Treat. Release 4) Hold paw, pretend to clip

by the nail. Treat and release.

5) Begin clipping a very small bit, treat and release.

Watch dog at all time. Ensure they are ok.

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Overgrown Nails

Unfortunately dealing with overgrown nails is a part of being a dog groomer. Often owners

forget to check nails, or simply neglect the dog.

The nail will not stop growing, and curves as it grows. If it does not file down while out walking

on hard surfaces, it will continue to grow until it curves around and grows back in to the dog’s

paw pad.

Often you will have nails that have continued to grow and have burst in through the pad and

are now embedded in the dog’s flesh.

When you find this you must insist that the owner take the dog to the vets as it is likely that

there may be infection in the paw pad as dirty nail has been growing in to it, and the vet will

need to clean up the wound.

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Cracked or Pulled Nails

Cracked toenails are sometimes caused by overgrown nails, sometimes caused by poor diet,

sometimes poor health, and sometimes immune deficiency.

Torn nails can be one of the most painful toenail problems for a dog. A nail may snag on carpeting,

a sweater or fabric and tear when the dog tries to get free. This often leads to the nail tearing into

the quick, causing bleeding and pain. This could happen in your parlour in your holding area, in

the crate, or if scratching at restraints.

If a dog loses or cracks a nail in your parlour, soak in warm water with disinfectant, dry thoroughly,

wrap in medical gauze, cover in vet wrap, and contact the dog’s owner to bring them to the vet to

have the nail and nail bed checked.

Do not wrap too tightly, and Creedons College recommend that you take a first aid care workshop

to increase your confidence in handling any accidents.

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Nail Fungal Infection

Fungal nail infections are caused by the accumulation of fungi from soil or other areas the dog is in

contact with or may be due to an overgrowth of yeast cells from the dog’s body. It’s important to

detect nail infections as soon as possible, so as to avoid the spreading of the infection to other areas

of the body or other pets.

A fungal nail infection is caused by the accumulation of fungi and these will be picked up from

various environments such as The beach, Wet soil and Mouldy areas.

In some cases, there may be an overgrowth of yeast cells, which are normally present on the dog’s

body and this can lead to a nail or skin infection.

The most common types of fungi causing nail infections are the Blastomyces dermatitidis, which

thrive in moldy and moist areas. Dogs that are taken to walks on the beach or woods that contain

sands or mouldy areas are more prone to developing fungal nail infections. Puppies that have an

undeveloped immune system may also be more exposed to infections. Vets report a higher

incidence of nail infections in male dogs, but the cause is unknown.

Symptoms of Fungal Nail Infections

If a dog is affected by a fungal nail infection, you will notice that he will chew on his paws and lick

them, as the fungal infection causes itchiness and discomfort. Watch out for additional symptoms

such as Foul odour of the paws, Limping, Nail colour changes, the nails may become more brittle

or even fall, Swollen paws.

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The vet will have to differentiate between the many possible types of nail infections. He may run a

skin scraping test or have a nail sample analysed and determine if the infectious agents are fungi.

The treatment will consist of topical antifungal creams and rinses that will clear the infection within

3 to 4 weeks. The paws may have to be bandaged to prevent the transfer to other areas of the body.

In severe cases, the vet will prescribe oral fungicide medication. The dog’s diet will play an

important role in providing the minerals and vitamins necessary to strengthen the immune system

and allow a faster recovery. A strengthened immune system will also mean fewer chances of

infection in the future.

Dog Nail Bed Infection

Dogs and cat’s feet are often exposed to bacteria and fungi in dirt and grass. A split or torn nail

opens up the nail bed to germs, and fungi like ringworm eat keratin (the non-living part of the claw)

and can weaken and infect the nail.

The infection attacks the nail root where it grows out of the toe. The skin around the claw swells,

turns red and crusty, and may smell bad. In severe cases, the nail becomes brittle or powdery,

deformed, or even loosens in the flesh. Pus collects in the area. Pets with nail bed infections may

limp, and often lick the sore or itchy area.

Nail bed infections can be cause by simple injury or serious internal health conditions.

If more than one nail bed is infected, have your vet examine your pet right away. There may be

something more serious going on, and your pet may require antibiotics or even refer you to a

veterinary dermatologist.

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If only one nail bed is infected, you can treat it at home. If the infection does not improve after 3 -

5 days of home treatment, the vet should examine your pet.

Watch for sudden symptoms - It is likely to be a bacterial infection when symptoms come on

suddenly (within a 2 - 3-day period) and your pet's paws and toes are very painful. If the is happens,

it is important to have your pet examined by your vet right away.

Soak the foot in Epsom salts - Whether bacteria or fungi cause the problem, an Epsom salt soak

will help clean out the infection and make your pet's foot feel better. Use 1 cup per 2 gallons of

lukewarm water and soak the affected foot for 10 minutes at a time. You will want to rinse off the

Epsom salts so he doesn't lick them off. The salts are not dangerous, but they may cause diarrhoea.

Dry the foot thoroughly.

Clean with a soft brush - For tender toes, use a soft brush with any mild antibacterial soap to clean

the crusty material and debris from the nail bed. A complexion brush or even a soft tooth brush

works well. Use warm water, and be sure to completely rinse off the soap and dry thoroughly, or it

can cause even more irritation.

Keep your pet still - Even when their feet aren't sore, pets often resent having their paws handled.

You may need 2 people to treat tender feet, but dogs with itchy toes may actually enjoy the

treatment. Small dogs and cats can be wrapped in a towel or pillow case with one foot exposed at a

time. If you have a larger dog, kneel beside him on the floor, with one arm around his neck and the

other under and around his chest. Then hug him to your chest.

Trim damaged nails carefully - When bacterial infection develops from a nail injury, you must trim

off the damaged part of the nail above the split or tear before the wound will heal. Do this only if

the nail is broken or split and the damage has not reached the quick (blood vessel inside the nail).

If the nail damage includes the quick, do not attempt to cut it. Bandage it loosely to prevent further

damage, and go to the vet. Use rubbing alcohol to sterilize the nail clippers or scissors before you

trim the nail. Hold the paw securely, put the clipper in position, and make a quick, decisive cut.

Have him wear socks - To keep a dog from licking, put a plain cotton sock over his paw. The cotton

allows the area to breathe so that it will heal. Put the sock on and use adhesive tape or elastic

adhesive bandage like Elastoplast to secure the leg.

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Be sure to change the sock at least once a day to help keep the area clean and dry. It is a good idea

for dogs to wear socks when they go outside, but you should change the sock when they return. This

will keep the sore nails from being re-exposed to more bacteria in the yard.

Use soft litter - Cat claws will heal faster if your cat doesn't have to use them to dig through tough

litter. You can try switching to a product with softer granules, like yesterday’s news cat litter, which

is a recycled newspaper product that won't irritate sore paws. Keep the litter box clean so that your

cat doesn't re-infect his claws from the bacteria in the box.

If fungi are present - Fungi attack over a period of weeks, and your pet's toes won't be as tender,

but the infection lasts longer and is harder to cure. Fungi can turn the nails brittle or make them

grow deformed, and your pet's toes will feel itchy. If your pet exhibits any of these signs, it is a good

idea to make a trip to the vet. Once he makes a diagnosis, he will provide a home treatment plan.

Prevention

Keep your pet’s paws in top condition with regular nail trimmings and thorough grooming.

Dog Nail Bed Tumour

The nail bed is part of the nail matrix that contains blood vessels, nerves, and melanocytes

(melanin-producing cells). As the nail is produced by the root, it streams down along the nail bed,

which adds material to the under surface of the nail making it thicker.

While no specific breed appears to be at higher risk, one study showed that approximately 25% of

dogs with malignant nail bed tumours had black coat. The typical symptoms are the presence of a

mass at the nail bed, lameness (limping), and ulceration. Nail bed squamous cell carcinoma (SCC)

occurs in older dogs (average age of 9 years) and approximately 75% of cases involve large breeds

and over two thirds have black coats. These SCC tumours are often ulcerative and bleeding, and the

associated nail may be broken or missing. The bone is almost always destroyed at the site of the

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tumour. Nail bed melanomas are potentially malignant tumours with a high risk of metastasizing

(spreading) to distant organs.

X-rays of the affected paw are done to assess the presence of a mass and to detect any bone

destruction. Approximately 75% of primary nail bed tumours will result in local bone destruction.

Nail bed tumours become often infected and can be initially misdiagnosed as osteomyelitis (bone

inflammation) or nail infection.

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Ear Anatomy and Care

It is important to have a basic understanding of the dog’s ear anatomy so that when you are

cleaning the ear you know what is going on underneath the skin.

It is important to clean a dog’s ears regularly to remove wax build up, dislodge any foreign

bodies, help clear their ear canal to aid hearing, help with air circulation and to prevent

infection or bacteria build up.

How do we clean a dog’s ears?

Hold the pinna, or external flap, taut to make a funnel.

Using a cotton wool, a syringe, or a narrow opening bottle, put three to four drops of cleaning

fluid on the dog’s pinna near to the ear opening of the ear canal.

Don't worry if you pour too much, the ear drum will prevent liquid entering the inner ear and

you can fill the ear canal if needs be, though a few drops are usually enough to clean most ears.

Once the drops travel down the ear canal massage the ear. The dog should enjoy this.

After a few seconds allow the dog to shake their head to remove waste and ear fluid (stand back

to avoid being hit with flying ear waste!

Dry and clear the ear with cotton wool.

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Once the dogs ear canal is clean, some dogs require removal of hair growing in the ear canal.

What is ear plucking?

Hair grows inside the ear canal of some breeds of dogs, plucking is the removal if this hair.

Why do we pluck the ears?

Prevent wax build up, allow air circulation, prevent matting, aid hearing

What breeds do you think need ear plucking?

Shih Tzu, Bichon, Poodle, Labradoodle, Old English Sheepdog, Some Spaniels, etc. Generally,

longer haired dogs.

How to Pluck

1) Apply medicated powder on the hair

2) Break into small sections

3) Either with your fingers or forceps / tweezers take a firm grip of the hair

4) In a very swift movement, tug the hair out

5) Repeat until all hair has been removed

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Signs of Ear Infection

Ear scratching, Brown, yellow or bloody discharge, Odour in the ear, Redness, Swelling,

Crusted or scabby skin on the near ear flap, Hair loss around the ear Wiping the ear area on

the floor or furniture, Head shaking or head tilt, Loss of balance, Unusual eye movements,

Walking in circles, Hearing loss, Scaly looking pinna.

If you notice any of the above, DO NOT clean or pluck the dogs ear. Instead explain in full what

you have found to the dog owner, take photographs, and make a note of the appointment and

that you have advised that the client visit the vet.

Creedons College recommend getting the dog owner telephone number and email address and

following up with both an email and a text so that you have proof that you have suggested

veterinary care.

Causes of Ear Infections

Allergies, Parasites - ear mites, Infections - bacteria and yeast, Foreign bodies, e.g., plant awns,

Trauma, Hormonal abnormalities, e.g., hypothyroidism, The ear environment, e.g., excess

moisture and ear anatomy, Hereditary or immune conditions, and tumours.

The Vet Must Diagnose!

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Dental Anatomy and Care

Dog owners are becoming more and more aware of their dog’s dental hygiene requirements,

thanks in no part to a doggie denture advertising campaign.

In reality, brushing a dog’s teeth will only help to prevent plaque build-up if the teeth are

brushed once a day, and not every six weeks at the groomers. Plaque hardens within a day or

two and after it hardens it needs dental treatment at the vets to be removed.

However, many clients request teeth cleaning so it is important to know how. You can also

teach puppy owners how to brush their dog’s teeth daily.

Dentition and Digestion

The role of teeth is to grab food, chew, and to form a mass that can be swallowed. They are the

first step in the digestion process. Digestion is the process by which food is taken in by an

organism.

Food is broken down from large rigid form into smaller particles that can eventually be

absorbed into the blood stream and cells

Dentition is the term used to describe the number and type of teeth a species has, and the

arrangement of these teeth on the upper and lower jaw.

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Teeth

A dog’s teeth are essential for survival. They are fixed to the jaw by strong fibres which means

they are not rigid, but allows for minimal flexibility – important when holding strong prey.

Temporary milk teeth fall out and are replaced by permanent teeth. Second set of teeth allows

the animals to have the use of teeth when they’re juveniles and larger teeth to fit their larger

adult jaw.

The adult dog has 42 teeth, made up of Incisors, Canines, Premolars and Molars.

Incisors – 6 in upper jaw and 6 in lower

Pointed teeth, slightly curved and used for catching and holding prey

Canines – 2 upper, 2 lower. Very large, overlapping teeth. Hold and kill prey

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Premolars – 8 upper jaw, 8 lower. Strong, shearing teeth. Cut through tough mass.

(very large carnassial premolar at rear which is double routed and difficult to remove)

Molars – 4 upper jaw, 6 lower. Perform grinding and prepare for food to be swallowed.

Dental Formula

(format in which an animal’s dentition is described numerically). This is the number of each

type of tooth on the upper and lower jaw.

6284

6286

Dental Problems

Periodontal means around the teeth. Periodontal disease is the most common disease, and

tooth fracture is the second most common form of dental veterinary treatment.

Structure of the Tooth

The canine toot has the same structure as a human tooth. It has three sections. The crown is

the part that we can see externally, the neck is the part of the tooth where the gum surface

meets the tooth and the root is the part of the tooth below the gum.

Crown is coated in enamel, next layer is dentine – less brittle than enamel, appears more bone

like

Cement / cementum – thin layer of bone like material that covers the cementum below the

root, and the internal centre of the tooth is where you will find the pulp – soft tissue containing

blood capillaries – this allows the tooth to grow and live, and brings oxygen and food to the

tooth.

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Canine Teeth Lifecycle

Milk teeth develop at approximately 2 weeks.

There are no molars in milk teeth, all teeth are sharp – weaning begins at this stage. Pups lose

teeth at approximately six months. This results in excessive chewing during teething. Adult

teeth contained within the jaw from birth. All adult teeth usually in place at 7 months

Often teeth can become more compact in a brachycephalic head (flat, Boxers, Pugs etc.). Molars

and premolars can be missing.

In all breeds it is not uncommon for additional teeth to be present, usually incisors or

premolars.

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Does Brushing Work?

Dog’s don’t regularly suffer from dental decay. They do suffer from gingivitis (swollen gums)

caused by tartar build up on teeth. It appears as brownish yellow deposit which hardens.

Loss of teeth and bad breath symptoms of tartar build up. Daily brushing CAN help, weekly

occasional brushing ineffective.

How Do We Brush?

The important part of brushing in a grooming room is that the dog enjoys it.

Start by allowing the dog to lick tasty dog toothpaste of the dog tooth brush.

They will soon begin to chew on the brush, and when they do you can begin moving the brush

around the teeth.

Add tastier paste and lift the lip on the muzzle to brush in slow circular movements, stopping

every 2-3 seconds to allow the dog lick the paste. This will teach them to enjoy the process.

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Parasites

In your career as a dog groomer you are going to come across parasites regularly. It is important

that you are aware of the different types of parasites and know how to recognise them.

Mange (mites)

There are two types – sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange.

Sarcoptic mange (scabies) is highly contagious and people can also be carriers (though the mites

cannot survive when on humans). You will see red skin, sores, hair loss and itching, especially

around face and legs

Demodectic mange causes bald spots, scabbing and sores, but is not contagious

In both cases, do not groom the dog and have the owner seek veterinary intervention

Fleas

Look like little black seeds – that move!

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Often can be seen around base of tail/spine, the croup. You can often see black/brown crumbs (flea

poo).

Wiping with wet tissue can differentiate between flea poo and dirt as flea poo will turn reddish. You

may also observe excessive scratching, licking, hot spots, scabs etc.

Treat the dog for fleas with flea shampoo and advise client treats their home as fleas live on clothes.

You should also charge a surplus charge for treating a dog with fleas as your grooming room will

require a deep clean post groom.

Advise suitable preventative going forward

Ticks

Ticks are external blood sucking monsters, are absolutely disgusting and are probably the worst

part of grooming!

They are an external parasite that appears like a wart and can vary in size depending on how long

they have been feeding off the dog.

You need to remove slowly but firmly with tick remover – avoiding twisting or yanking. Pull from

‘neck’ close to dog skin.

Take care disposing, wrap in tissue and flush – can transmit Lyme disease which is another

zoonosis, a disease that humans can catch from animals.

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Ear Mites

Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the dog’s ear canal. They are very itchy and you will often

see ear inflammation due to excessive scratching and shaking.

Infestation sometimes called otodectic mange, and it appears like dark, coffee like discharge.

Indications of ear mites include scratching, rubbing ears, head shaking, quite strong smell, and a

black/brown waxy secretion. The dog will need veterinary treatment for mites, and as they are

contagious I would have that dog leave your parlour and head to the vets for treatment before you

groom them.

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Wormy wormy worms

Heart worms are located in the walls of the heart and can cause heart failure, heart disease, liver

failure and kidney failure. They can be fatal.

Blood test required to diagnose the heartworm. Symptoms include coughing, fatigue, laboured

breathing and weight loss. It would be impossible to know that a grooming client had heartworm.

Round Worms are found in digestive tract. They are spread by rodents when dogs eat or drink

contaminated substances.

Roundworm is diagnosed with faecal test, and can cause diarrhoea, stomach pains, changes in

appetite.

Symptoms include passing of eggs or dead worms in faeces, and bum scooting.

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Hook Worm

Hookworm have grippers latch onto inside of intestine. They can burrow through intestine wall,

and feed on blood and can cause anaemia.

Eggs passed in faeces and latch onto dogs, burrows through skin until reaches intestine. They can

be treated with medication.

Hookworms can sometimes be seen around dog’s anus.

Tape Worm

Tapeworm are similar to hookworm but differ anatomically, as they have a flat head. They attach

to intestine walls with grippers and feed on blood and steal vital nutrients through absorption.

They can cause serious digestive problems and possibly blockages.

Old sections dry up and pass with faeces. Dried up sections look like grains of rice and can be seen.

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Tapeworm can be spread by fleas.

Symptoms include abdominal bloating, increased appetite and lethargy.

Ring Worm

Ringworm is not a worm but in fact a fungus. It is zoonotic which means it is highly contagious

from dog to person and back again.

Symptoms of ringworm in dogs include accumulations of surface skin cells, such as seen in

dandruff; poor hair coat; reddened skin; darkened skin; itchiness; and hair loss, which may be

patchy or circular.

Other indications of ringworm in dogs that are readily apparent on the skin are raised, rounded,

knotty lesions known as granulomatous lesions, or boils, and raised nodular lesions that frequently

ooze, the result of ringworm infection. There may also be inflammation of the claw folds -- the folds

of skin bordering the nail, and medically referred to as paronychia.

The dog must go to the vets asap, afternoon appointments cancelled, and the entire room

disinfected including yourself.

Module 4


module 5 nail care, ear care, and nail and ear ...€“-nail... · module 5 – nail care, ear...

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