manual motorbike sachs xtc

Printed in Germany 2003 11 001

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH · Nopitschstrasse 70D-90441 Nürnberg ·Tel +49 (0)911 42 31 0 · Fax +49 (0) 911 42 31 405

SACHSRecommends

Repair InstructionsNo. P00 677 008 06 02 000 Edition Oktober 2003

XTC 125 4-stroke

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

1

SACHS XTC 125 4-stroke

PREFACE

This repair manual serves as guideline for professional repair activities. See the illustrated spare-parts catalog for further assis-tance.

All figures, dimensions and descriptions correspond to the state of the version concerned. All changes are reserved in the interest of further development of the construction models.

See also the "technical information", which provides data about technical changes implemented after this repair manual was sent to the printer .

The technical information is intended for master me-chanics, since its careful and constant observation is a requisite for preserving the operability of the individual assemblies of the motorcycle.

Apart from such information, the usual basic safety rules that apply to the repair of motorcycles must be obser-ved.

Use the tools provided for in the "Motor" section.The use of unsuitable tools may adversely affect engine operability.

This manual is provided only for inter-nal use within the Sachs organisation. It may not be reproduced or made available to third par-ties.

Use only original SACHS spare parts.

Sachs Fahrzeug- und Motorentechnik GmbH

1


TABLE OF CONTENTS PageTechnical data 2-4

Assembly agents 5

Repair tools and installation equipment for engines 6-7

Torque values for engine, clutch, gearbox, chassis 8-9

Service Data 10-11

General notes 12

Inspection plan 13

Tappet clearance 14-17

Spark plug 18

Air filter 19

Engine oil and oil filter 20-22

Checking/adjusting the clutch 23

Checking/adjusting the chain 24

Brake system 25-29

Fork column bearing 30

Charging the battery 31

Fuel tank, cock, tank filler removing/installing 32-33

Front wheel guard removing/installing 33

Removing/installing ignition fork-column 34

Footrests, footbrake removing/installing 36-37

Handlebar removing/installing 37-39

Checking/adjusting headlamp 40

General checking 41

Exhaust system removing/installing 42

Engine disassembly 43-51

Engine components inspection and service 52-56

Cylinder head disassembly and service 56-65

Cylinder, piston service 65-67

Crankshaft, conrod service 68-72

Transmission, clutch service 73-76

Engine reassembly 77-86

Piston, cylinder, cylinder head reassembly 87-89

Camshaft assembly 89-93

Carburetor data, removal inspection 95-103

Lubrication system chart 104

Electric system 105-117

Wheels removing/installing, checking 118-120

Telescopic fork, fork column bearing, suspension removing/installing, checking 121-127

Chain set replacing 128

Brakes removing/installing, checking 129-131

Lights 132-134

Troubleshooting 135-140

Wiring diagram 141

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3


Engine

Type: FX 125

Construction: One cylinder 4-stroke, DOHC four valve

Pistion displacement: 124,5 cc

Bore: ø 57 mm

Stroke: 48,8 mm

Compression ratio: 10,4

Maximum net power output: 11 KW at 10500 1/min

Maximum net torque: 11 Nm at 7200 1/min

Ignition system: transistorized ignition system with electronic ignition control (CDI)

Static timing: 5 ° at 1.500 1/min B.T.D.C

Spark plug: NGK CR8E or DENSO U24ESR-N Electrode distance 0,6 mm

Carburettor: Mikuni BS 26 47E3

Air-filter: paper air-filter

Idling speed: 1450 - 1550 1/min

Typ of starter: electric starter

Cooling: air cooled with oil cooler

TECHNICAL DATA

Power transmission

Clutch: Wet multi-plate type

Gear box: 5-seed constant mesh

Gear ratios: 1. gear = 33/12 (2,75)

2. gear = 25/14 (1,786)

3. gear = 26/19 (1,368)

4. gear = 23/21 (1,095)

5. gear = 21/23 (0,913)

Primary transmission ratio: 70/20 (3,5)

Seccondary transmission ratio: 3,3 with tire 150/60 R17 66 HTL3,4 with tire 150/70-17 M/C 69 HTL

Chain pinion: 14 teeth

Sprocket: 53 teeth with tire 150/60 R17 66 HTL55 teeth with tire 150/70-17 M/C 69 HTL

Chain: O-ring chain 144 links

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Chassis

Motorbike version: XTC 125 type 677 001 / XTC 125 type 677 003

Frame: Trellis-type frame made of tubular steel

Front suspension: Telescopic fork ø 41 mm , hydraulic shock absorption, travel 120 mm

Rear suspension: Oil-damped mono shock absorber, travel 120 mm,adjustable preload

Wheels: Light metal (Alu)Front rim size: = 17" x MT 2.75 DOTRear rim size: = 17" MT 4.00 DOT

Tires: Front = 110/70 17R 54 W TL / 110 / 70 -17 M/C 54 HTLRear = 150/60 17R 66 W TL / 150 / 70 -17 M/C 69 HTL

Tire pressure, solopillion driver

Front = 1.9 rear = 2.1 barFront = 1.9 rear = 2.3 bar

Brakes, front:Minumim lining thickness

Hydraulic disc brake ø 316 mm four piston caliper2,5 mm

Brakes, rear:Minumim lining thickness

Hydraulic disc brake ø 220 mm single piston floating caliper1,5 mm

Lubricants and operating fluids

Fuel tank capacity: 20.0 litres, including 4.0 litres reserve

Fuel: Unleaded fuel

Telescopic-fork oil: Viscosity SAE 10 W

Filling quantity per fork tube: 280 cm3

Engine oil, oil change w.o. filter: oil change with filter: oil change overhaul:

1.000 cm3 SAE 10 W 40 mineral oil API (SG or higher)1.200 cm3 1.400 cm3

Brake fluid: DOT 4

Electrical Equipment

Generator: Flywheel magneto, 12V, 100W at 5000rpm

Battery: 12 V 4 Ah MF

Fuse: 20 A

Lights:

- Headlight:

- Position light:

- Pilot lights:

- Brake/rear light:

- Number plate light:

- Turn signal light:

Highbeam: H3 12 V 55W E1 / low beam H1 12V 55W E1

12 V 2W

12 V 1,2 W

12 V 5W / 21 W

12 V 2W

12 V 10 W

TECHNICAL DATA

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Dimensions and weights

Overall length:Width across handlebars

1970 mm

without rear view mirror: 660 mm

Maximum height: 1040 mm without rear view mirror

Wheel base: 1350 mm

Seat height: 800 mm

Seat length: Driver: 290 mm, pillion passenger: 270 mm

Curb weight: 130 kg

Max. permitted total weight: 330 kg

Top speed: 102 km/h

TECHNICAL DATA

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5


Designation Use

Suzuki Bond 1215 Sealing of crank case halves

Thread Look Super “1303” Housing screws for secondary output gear

Thread Look “1342” Generater stator setscrew

Thread Look “1360” Disc assembly screws

Suzuki Bond Cylinder head cover

Thread Look Super “1324” Fastening screws and nuts for drive and countershaft bearing

Thread Look Super “1305” Oil pump housing screws

Thread Look Super “1322” Oil tube fastening screws

ASSEMBLY AGENTS

2

16

1 3 4 5

6 7 8 9 10

11 12 13 14 15

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25

26

Tools without material number have to be purchased from specialised trade.

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REPAIR TOOLS AND INSTALLATION EQUIPMENT FOR ENGINES

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7


Repair tools and installation equipment for engines

Fig. No. Order-no. Designation

1 K 09900-22302-000 Plastigauge

2 K 09910-20116-000 Conrod holder

3 K 09910-32812-000 Crankshaft installer

4 K 09910-34510-000 Piston pin puller

5 K 09911-11310-000 Attachment

6 K 09913-10750-000 Adaptor for compression gauge

7 K 09913-50121-000 Oil seal remover

8 K 09913-75510-000 Bearing installer

9 K 09913-75520-000 Bearing insaller

10 K 09913-75810-000 Bearing insaller

11 K 09913-75821-000 Bearing installer attachment

12 K 09913-76010-000 Bearing installer

13 K 09915-72410-000 Adaptor for oil pressure gauge

14 K 09915-74510-000 Oil pressure gauge

15 K 09916-14510-000 Valve lifter

16 K 09916-14530-000 Valve lifter attachment

17 K 09916-21110-000 Valve seat cutter set

18 K 09916-24410-000 Valve seat cutter (N-111) 60° intake side

18 K 09916-24460-000 Valve seat cutter (N-130) 15° exhaust side

18 K 09916-24470-000 Valve seat cutter (N-131) 45° intake side and exhaust side

18 K 09916-20630-000 Valve seat cutter (N-126) 30° intake side

19 K 09916-20640-000 Solid pilot

20 K 09916-34542-000 Valve guide reamer 4.5 mm

21 K 09916-34580-000 Valve guide reamer 10.8 mm for vlave guide hole

22 K 09916-43210-000 Valve guide installer

23 K 09920-13120-000 Crankcase separator

24 K 09920-53740-000 Clutch sleeve hub holder

25 K 09922-55131-000 Counter shaft (2-4-5 gear) remover

26 K 09930-44512-000 Rotor holder

- P98 835 771 07 01 000 Assembly stand set

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9


Tightening torques, gerneral Nm

Srew connection M5 5-6




Tightening torques for plastic connections Nm




Tightening torques engine/clutch/gearbox

Connection Nm

Cylinder head cover bolt 14

Cylinder head bolt 25

Cylinder head nut 10

Cylinder base nut 10

Cam sprocket bolt 11

Camshaft holder bolt 10

Cam chain tension adjuster bolt 10

Starter clutch bolt 10

Spark plug 11

Cylinder head stud bolt 15

Crank balancershaft set bolt 50

Generator rotor nut 80

Primary drive gear nut 50

Clutch sleeve hub nut 50

Gearshift cam plate bolt 10

Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft 10

Gearshift arm stopper bolt 19

Driveshaft and countershaft bearing retainer screw 8.5

Crankcase bolt 10

Generator cover bolt 10

Clutch cover bolt 10

Engine oil pipe union bolt 20

Engine oil drain plug 18

T.D.C. plug 21

Generator cover cap 11

Engine sprocket nut 90

Oil cooler hose union bolt 23

Exhaust pipe bolt M8 22-25

Exhaust pipe mounting bolt and nut M6 10

Muffler mounting bolt and nut M8 22-25

Engine mounting nut M10 66

Engine mounting bolt M8 31

TOURQE VALUES FOR ENGINE/CLUTCH/GEARBOX/CHASSIS

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9


Connection Part designation Nm

Half-handlebar fastening Screw M8 25-28

Fastening screws for upper fork bridge Screw M10 40

Fastening screws for lower fork bridge Screw M8 13-15

Screw plug for fork pipe Screw 40

Closing nut of control-head bearing Nut M24 40

Covering holder, front Screw with nut M8 3-15

Covering screws Screw M6 8

Brake shoe, front Screw M10 35-38

Brake disk on wheel hub, front Screw 10-11

Brake disk on wheel hub, rear Screw 10-11

Brake pipe connection Banjo bolt 18-20

Ventilating valve on calliper Ventilator screw 10

Footbrake cylinder on frame Screw with nut M6 12

Screws for brake lining, rear screw 35-38

Footbrake lever on frame Screw M8 25-28

Footbrake lever on frame Screw M8 25-28

Footrest support, front Screw with nut M8 25

Footrest support, rear Screw with nut M8 25

Chain wheel to hub Screw M8 25-28

Engine fastening Screw with nut M8 28

Engine fastening Screw with nut M10 42

Front-wheel axle Full floating axle M24 60-65

Locking screw for front axle Screw M6 10

Rear-wheel axle Nut M16 88-90

Swing axle Nut M16 88-90

Telescopic leg Screw with nut M10 42

Side standard Nut M10 42

Tightening torques for chassis

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SERVICE DATA

VALVE + GUIDE Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Valve diam. IN. 22 -

EX. 19 -

Tappet clearance (when cold) IN. 0.10-0.20 -

EX. 0.20-0.30 -

Valve guide to valve stem clearance IN. 0.010-0.037 -

EX. 0.030-0.057 -

Valve stem deflection IN. & EX. - 0.35

Valve guide I.D IN. & EX. 4.500-4.512 -

Valve stem O.D. IN. 4.475-4.490 -

EX. 4.455-4.470 -

Valve stem runout IN. & EX. - 0.05

Valve head thickness IN. & EX. - 0.5

Valve seat width IN. & EX. 0.9-1.1 -

Valve head radial runout IN. & EX. - 0.03

Valve spring free length IN. & EX. - 37.8

Valve spring tension IN. & EX. 12.1-13.9 kgat length 33.7 mm

-

CAMSHAFT+ CYLINDER HEAD Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Cam height IN. 34.960-35.000 34.650

EX. 33.260-33.300 33.950

Camshaft journal oil clearance IN. & EX. 0.032-0.066 0.150

Camshaft journal holder I.D. IN. & EX. 22.012-22.025 -

Camshaft journal O.D. IN. & EX. 21.959-21.980 -

Camshaft runout IN. & EX. - 0.10

Cam chain pin (at arrow "3") 16th pin -

Cylinder head distortion - 0.05

CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Compression pressure 13.0 kg/cm2 10.0 kg/cm2

Piston to Cylinder clearance 0,050-0.060 0.120

Cylinder bore 57.000-57.015 57.362

Piston diam. 56.945-56.960Measure at 15 mm from the skirt end.

56.850

Cylinder distortion - 0.05

Piston ring free end gap 1st R Approx. 7.2 6.2

2nd R Approx. 5.0 3.96

Piston ring end gap 1st 0.20-0.32 0.5

2nd 0.20-0.32 0.5

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CONROD + CRANKSHAFT Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Conrod small end I.D. 15.006-15.014 15.040

Conrod deflection - 3.0

Conrod big end side clearance 0.10-0.45 1.00

Conrod big end width 15.950-16.000 -

Crank web to web width 53.0±0.1 -

Crankshaft runout - 0.08

OIL PUMP

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Oil pump reduction ratio 2.000 (30/15) -

Oil pressure (at 60° C) Above 0.3 kg/cm2

Below 0.7 kg/cm2

at 3 000 r/min.

-

CLUTCH Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Clutch lever play 10-15 -

Drive plate thickness 2.9-3.1 2.6

Drive plate claw width 11.8-12.0 11.0

Driven plate distortion - 0.10

Clutch spring free length - 29.5

SERVICE DATA

CYLINDER + PISTON + PISTON RING Unit: mm

ITEM STANDARD LIMIT

Piston ring to groove clearance 1st2nd

--

0.180.15

Piston ring groove width 1st2ndOil

1.01-1.031.01-1.032.01-2.03

---

Piston ring thickness 1st2nd

0.97-0.990.97-0.99

--

Piston pin bore 15.002-15.008 15.030

Piston pin O.D. 14.995-15.000 14.980

1

SFM 835 001.3

1

SFM 835 002.3

1

SFM 835 003.3

1

42

3

SFM 835 004.3

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GENERAL NOTES

Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings

- Gaskets, seal rings and O-rings must generally be replaced when overhauling the engine. The sealing faces must be thoroughly cleaned.

Lock washers and split pins- After removal replace all lock washers (1) and

split pins.After tightening the nut, lock washer (1) must be bent up against the side of the nut.

Bearings and radial seals- When assembling bearings (1) make sure that

manufacturer name or number point to the outside. Lubricate the bearings with oil.

ATTENTIONDo not use compressed air to dry the bearings since this could damage the surface of the bearings.

- When assembling radial seals (1) make sure that manufacturer name or number point to the outside. Apply a thin coat of lightly viscous engine oil to the seal lips.

Circlips- Circlips must be thoroughly inspected before instal-

lation.- Piston pin circlips must not be assembled again. - Warped circlips must be renewed.- When assembling a circlip (1) make sure that

the sharp edged side (2) is positioned op-posite the side subjected to the force (3) ap-plied to the circlip. See cross-sectional drawing (4 = shaft).

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INSPECTION PLAN

ComponentAssembly

Servicing Tasks Beforeeachtrip

1st ser-viceafter

1000 km

Every4.000 km

Every8.000 km

Valves Check and adjust valves as necessary (cold) inspect every 12.000 km

Spark plugs Check condition and accordingly clean or change

inspect inspect inspect

Air filter Clean filter and housing. Replace paper filter clean replace replace

Carburetor Check and adjust idle and cold start x x x x

Throttle cable x x x x

Petrol hoses Check and replace as necessary (change at least every 4 years)

x x x x

Motoroil Change (operating temperature) x x x

Oil filter Change x x

Exhaust system Check for leads and repair as necessary x x

Brakes Check brake function and brake fluid as wellas housing, correcting as necessary

x x x x

Check and replace brake pads x x x

Brake fluid Change Every 24.000km / 2 Years

Brake hoses Check and renew* (min. every 4 years) x x x

Clutch Check and adjust x x x x

Back wheelmounting

Look over, check play and renew or regreasas necessary

Every 24.000km / 2 Years

Tyres Check general condition and tread depth andreplace as necessary

x x x x

Wheels Check for damage, balance x x x

Stearing and bearings

Check and adjust free play x x

Front forks Check general condition as well as for leaksand repair as necessary

x x

Chain Check adjustment and condidtion and grease,adjust and renew as necessary

inspect clean and lubricate every 1000 km

Side stand Check, grease, repair as necessary x x x x

Nut and bolttightness

Check that all bolts and nuts are tightened tothe correct torque settings

x x x

Cables Check and renew x x x

Headlight Check and adjust x x x x

General safetycheck

Check general safety standards: clutch, gearswitch, revs, brakes, headset, lights, air pressure and adjust accordingly

x x x x

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TAPPET CLEARANCEInspect every 12 000 km.INSPECTION- Remove the fuel tank.- Disconnect the spark plug cap and remove the

spark plug.- Remove the cylinder head cover.The tappet clearance specification is different for both intake and exhaust valves.Tappet clearance adjustment must be checked and adjusted:- at the time of periodic inspection when the valve mechanism is serviced- when the camshafts are removed for servicing.

Tappet clearance (when cold): IN.: 0,10-0,20 mm EX.: 0,20-0,30 mm

NOTEThe piston must be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke in order to check or adjust the tappet clearance.The tappet clearance should only be checked when the engine is cold.

- Remove the generator cover cap (1) and valve timing inspection plug (2).

- Rotate the crankshaft with a box wrench to set the piston at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. (Rotate the crankshaft until the "T" line on the generator rotor is aligned with the center of the hole in the generator cover.)

- lnsert a thickness gauge between the tappet and the cam. If the clearance is out of specification, adjust it to specification as follows.

Tool: Thickness gauge

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ADJUSTMENTThe clearance is adjusted by replacing the existing tappet shim with a thicker or thinner shim.- Remove the intake or exhaust camshafts.- Remove the tappet and shim by hand or with a

magnet.

- Check the numbers printed on the tappet shim. These numbers indicate the thickness of the tap-pet shim, as illustrated.

- Select a replacement tappet shim that will provide the proper clearance. Tappet shims are available in 21 sizes, ranging from 1.20 to 2.20 mm in incre-ments of 0.05 mm. lnstall the selected shim (1) at the valve stem end, with the numbers facing towards the tappet. Be sure to measure the shim with a micrometer to ensure that it is of the proper size.

Refer to the tappet shim selection table for de-tails.

NOTEBe sure to apply engine oil to the top and bottom faces of the tappet shim.When installing the tappet shim, make sure that the side with the numbers face towards the tappet.

CAUTIONReinstall the Camshafts as specified.

- After replacing the tappet shim and camshafts, ro-tate the crankshaft so that the tappet is depressed fully (this will squeeze out any oil trapped between the tappet shim and the tappet that could cause an incorrect measurement). After rotating the crank-shaft, check the tappet clearance again to make sure that it is within specification.

- When installing the cylinder head cover, apply SU-ZUKI BOND NO.1207B to the cam end caps of the cylinder head cover gasket.

SUZUKI BOND NO.1207B

- Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts to specifica-tion in two stages.

Cylinder head cover bolt: Initial 10 Nm Final 14 Nm

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INTAKE SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE

TAPPET SHIM NO. (12892-05C00- x x x) TAPPET SHIM SET NO. (12800-05820)

How to use this chart:1. Measure tappet clearance (engine is cold).2. Measure present shim size.3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size horizontal column.

Example:

Tappet clearance is 0.23 mm

Present shim size 1.70 mm

Shim size to be used 1.80 mm

Measured tappet clearance mm

Surfix no.

PresentShim size

mm

Specified clearance / No adjustment required

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EXHAUST SIDE TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLE TAPPET SHIM NO. (12892-05C00- x x x) TAPPET SHIM SET NO. (12800-05820)

How to use this chart:1. Measure tappet clearance (engine is cold).2. Measure present shim size.3. Match clearance in vertical column with present shim size horizontal column

Example:

Tappet clearance is 0.33 mm

Present shim size 1.70 mm

Shim size to be used 1.80 mm

Measured tappet clearance mm

Surfix no.

PresentShim size

mm

Specified clearance / No adjustment required

2

A

1

3

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SPARK PLUG

Inspect every 4.000 km

Replace every 8.000 km

- Remove the fuel tank.- Pull off the spark plug socket and unscrew the

spark plugs.

Spark plug Type

NGK CR8E

DENSO U24ESR-N

Check the spark plug:- Check the spark plug type and replace if

necessary.- Check electrodes (1 and 2) for wear and damage.- Check the colour of the insulator (3):

Normal state is a medium to light brown coloration. In case of extremely deviating cloration check the engine timing or the ignition cables.

- Check the electrode gap (A) with a feeler gauge and adjust it if necessary.

Electrode gap (A) 0.6 mm

NOTEBefore installation clean spark plug and spark plug sealing faces.

- Install the spark plug.

Tightening torque 11 Nm

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Clean initally at 1.000 km


Opening the air filter:

- Remove the screws (1).- Take off the cover (2) with spring (3) and the cover

(4).- Clean the filter case and filter element (5) or replace

if necessary.

NOTEBefore installation, check the gasket (6) for damage and correct position. Assembly of the cleaned or new filter element takes place in reserve order of removal.

Tightening torque: 7 Nm

Air filter

-10˚ 0˚ 10˚ 20˚ 30˚ 40˚ 50˚C

SAE 10W/30

SAE 10W/40

SAE 20W/40

SAE 20W/50

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ENGINE OILCAUTIONDo not use additives. Since the oil also serves to lubricate the clutch, do not use car engine oils supplemented with friction modifiers (such energy-conserving oils can lead to the clutch slipping). Use a suitable, light engine oil for motorcycles, such as Motorex SAE 10W/40 mineral oil API (SG or higher).If required, replenish the engine oil (for classification and viscosity, see the table) via the oil filter opening.

Recommended grade:Per API: SG or higher or also with additional release status: ACEA A3/96 (CCMC G5).

Recommended viscosity:

Viscosity depends on the outside temperature. For short while, the temperature may exceed or fall short of the limits of the SAE grades.

The recommended viscosity grade SAE 10W/40 covers the ambient temperature range –10 °C to +40 °C and therefore represents the optimum for our latitudes.

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21


ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT

ENGINE OIL

Replace initally at 1.000 km


The engine oil should be changed while the engine is warm. Oil filter replacement at the above intervals, should be done together with the engine oil change.

CAUTIONCatch old oil and dispose of environmentally.Do not run the engine in closed rooms without proper extraction of fumes.- Keep the motorcycle upright.- Place an oil pan below the engine, and drain the

engine oil by removing the oil drain plug (1) and filler cap (2).

- Tighten the oil drain plug (1) to the specified torque, and pour new oil through the oil filler. When performing an oil change (without oil filter replacement), the engine will hold about 1.0 L of oil.

Oil drain plug: 18 Nm- Install the oll filter cap.- Start up the engine and allow it to run for several

seconds at idling speed.- Turn off the engine and wait about one minute,

then check the oil level through the inspection window (3). lf the level is below the "F" mark, add oil to the proper level.

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23


OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT

OIL FILTER

Replace initally at 1.000 km


ATTENTIONUse only genuine Oilfilter, because the filters from other manufacturers or parts sold in the market may have different threads (thread diameter and pitch), filter performance and resistance, which could lead to engine damage and oil leaks.

- Drain the engine oil as described in the engine oil replacement procedure.

- Remove the oil filter cap (1) by removing the bolts.

- Remove the oil filter (2) and install a new one.- lnstall the oil filter cap (1) and tighten the bolts

securely.

NOTEBefore installing the new oil filter and oil filter cap, make sure that the spring (1) and new O-rings (2, 3) are installed correctly.

- Add new engine oil and check the oil level as described in the engine oil replacement procedure.

Oil viscosity and classification:SAE 10W/40 mineral oil API (SG or higher).

NECESSARY AMOUNT OF ENGINE OIL

Oil change: 1 000 ccm

Oil and filter change: 1 100 ccm

Engine overhaul: 1 400 ccm

1000

ml

43

SFM 677 020.1

1 2A

SFM 675 005.1

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Checking/adjusting the clutch

Checking the clutch:1. Pull the lever until resistance is felt.2. Measure the play.

Target value (A): 3-4 mm

Adjusting the clutch:3. Loosen the lock-nut (1).4. Twist the adjusting screw (2) correspondingly.5. Firmly retighten the lock-nut (1).6. Check the play.

NOTE

If the clutch play cannot be corrected by means of this adjustment, do the following:7. Loosen the lock-nut (1).8. Twist in the adjustment screw (2) all the way, in

order to make the pull cable as loose as possib-le.

9. Firmly retighten the lock-nut (1).

10. Loosen the adjustment nuts (4) of the pull cable (3).

11. Use the adjustment nuts (4) to adjust the pull cable (3) correspondingly, until the clutch-lever play (A = 3-4 mm) has been achieved.

12. Firmly retighten the adjustment nuts (4) of the pull cable (3).

NOTE

If the clutch-lever play can no longer be adjusted, the clutch must be checked or replaced, and the basic adjustment of the clutch must be carried out.

A

5

1 2

2 53

1 46

SFM 675 008.3

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25


Checking/adjusting the chain

Checking the chain for wear:

CAUTIONThe chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel must be replaced collectively, i.e. not as individual parts.

- Put the motorcycle on its side standard.- Hold the chain (5) by the rearmost part of the chain

wheel and pull the chain backwards.- If the chain tension is correct, it will not be

possible to lift the chain over the top of the teeth.- If the chain can be pulled any further, replace

the chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel.

Adjusting the chain:

CAUTIONThe chain adjustment af fects the wear of chain and the toothed wheel rim.

- Loosen the full floating axle (4) and nuts (1) from the chain take-up.

- Evenly adjust the adjusting screws (2) of the chain take-up on both sides in such a way (rear wheel must be aligned with front wheel-adjustment aid is the scale (6)), that the chain slack (A) = 30-40 mm.

- Tighten the nuts.Tightening torques:Full floating axle (4): 60-65 NmNuts (1): 22-25 Nm

3

2

1

SFM 675 011.3

24


25


Brake system

Checking the brake system for leaks

1. Check the brake lines for damage and correct position.

2. Wipe off all screw connections of the brake lines.3. Firmly operate the front and rear brakes and shortly

keep them operated.4. Check the brake lines for any leaks.5. Replace any faulty brake lines and seals/

washers.

Checking/adjusting the front brake-fluid level

CAUTIONBrake fluid damages paint and plastic parts!Before filling the tank with brake fluid, check the brake lining for wear and the brake system for leaks.Only use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.Brake fluid is exposed to high temperatur es and absorbs moisture from the ambient air.

NOTECover the tank and painted parts to avoid damage.

Checking the brake-fluid level:- Turn the handlebar until the line near the "MIN"

mark on the brake-fluid tank (1) is horizontal.- The brake-fluid level must be between the "MIN"

and "MAX" marks.- If air bubbles are visible: check the brake lining for

wear and replenish the brake fluid as necessary.

Replenishing the brake fluid:- Twist off the cover (3) and remove it along with the

rubber diaphragm (2).- Replenish the brake fluid up to the "MAX" mark and

reinsert the rubber diaphragm (2).- Twist on the cover (3).

1

2

3

SFM 675 012.3

26


27


Checking/adjusting the rear brake-fluid level

CAUTIONBrake fluid damages paint and plastic parts!Before filling the tank with brake fluid, check the brake lining for wear and the brake system for leaks.Only use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.Brake fluid is exposed to high temperatur es and absorbs moisture from the ambient air.

NOTECover painted parts is in order to avoid paint dama-ge.Checking the brake-fluid level:- Make sure the motorcycle is level.- The brake-fluid level should be between the

minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) marks onthe brake-fluid tank.

- If the brake-fluid level is lower than the minimum (MIN) mark: check the brake lining for wear and replenish the brake fluid as necessary.

Replenishing the brake fluid:- Make sure the motorcycle is level (so that the line

near the "MIN" mark on the brake-fluid tank (3) is level).

- Twist off the cover (1) and remove it along with the rubber diaphragm (2).

- Replenish the brake fluid up to the "MAX" mark.- Reinsert the rubber diaphragm (2).- Twist on the cover (1).

A

2

1

A

SFM 675 013.3

1

2

3

SFM 675 015.3

4

2

3

1

SFM 675 014.3

26


27


Checking/replacing the lining of the front brake-shoes

Checking the lining thickness:CAUTIONMake sure the minimum lining thickness is ob-served.- Visually inspect the calliper (1).- Check the minimum lining thickness. Minimum lining thickness (A): 2.5 mm- IIf the thickness is less than the minimum:

replace the brake lining.- Check the brake disk for wear and wobble.

Replacing the brake linings:NOTEBrake linings may only be replaced in pairs.

- Remove the screws from the holder clamp (1) and the screws (3) from the calliper (2).

- Remove the calliper (2).

- Remove the lock washer (3) and the holder bolts (2) from the calliper (1).

- Remove the brake linings (1).- Use a commercially available tool to set back the

pistons in the calliper (1) all the way, then clean the contact faces of the brake linings (4).

- Insert the new brake linings (4) and fasten them with the holder bolts (2) and the locking washers (3).

- Reassemble in reverse order.Tightening torques of the calliper screws: 35-38 Nm

WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENTOperate the brakes several times, until the brake linings make contact.

- Check the brake - fluid level and the handbrake play.

- Check the operation.

1

A

SFM 675 016.3

1

4

23

5

SFM 675 017.3

28


29


Checking/replacing the lining of the rear brake-shoes

Checking the lining thickness:

CAUTIONMake sure the minimum lining thickness is ob-served.

- Visually inspect the lower calliper (1) from the left-hand side of the motorcycle.

- Check the minimum lining thickness. Minimum lining thickness (A): 1.5 mm If the lining thickness is less than the minimum:

replace the brake lining.- Check the brake disk for wear and wobble.

Replacing the brake lining:NOTEThe brake linings may only be replaced in pairs.

- Remove the rear wheel.- Remove the brake anchor plates along with the

calliper (1) from the rear swing.- Bend back the lock plate (2) and remove the screws

(3).- Remove the holder plate (4) and remove the brake

linings (5).- Use a commercially available tool to set back the

pistons in the calliper (1) all the way, then clean the contact faces of the brake linings (5).

- Insert the new brake linings (5) and the holder plate (4) and fasten them with the lock plate (2) and the screws (3).

Tightening torques of the screws (3): 25-28 Nm

- Bend the lock plate (2) to lock the screws (3).- Reassemble in reverse order.WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENTOperate the brakes several times, until the brake linings make contact.- Check the brake fluid and the handbrake play.- Check the operation.

A 3

12

SFM 675 018.3-1

Max.

Min.

3

1

A

2

SFM 675 019.3

28


29


Changing the brake fluid

CAUTIONBrake fluid can damage paint and plastic parts!Use only brake fluid of specification DOT 4.

- Change the brake fluid and vent the brake sys-tem.

- Check the handbrake lever adjustment and check its operation.

Adjusting the handbrake lever

- Loosen the lock nut (1) on the handbrake lever (3).

- Turn the adjusting screw (2) until the empty run (A) at the handbrake lever is 30 mm until the pressure position.

- Retighten the lock nut (1).

Checking/greasing/adjusting the empty run and smooth run of the footbrake lever

- Check the smooth operation of the footbrake lever; grease it as necessary.

Adjusting the footbrake lever position:

NOTEUse the adjusting screw (3) to adjust the footbrake lever position as desired by the client.WARNINGThe adjustment dimension (A) may not exceed 18 mm.- Loosen the lock-nut (2) and use the adjusting screw

(3) to adjust the position of the footbrake lever (1).Adjustment dimension (A): max. of 18 mm.- Tighten the lock-nut (2).

SFM 675 021.3

2

3

1

1

SFM 675 022.3-1

30


31


Fork-column bearing

Checking/adjusting the fork-column bearing playChecking the fork-column bearing play:- Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the

weight off the front wheel.- Take hold of the two fork pipes and try to move them to

and fro. If there is a noticeable play in the fork-column bearing, it must be adjusted.

Adjusting the fork-column bearing play:- Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the

weight off the front wheel.- Loosen the clamp screws (1) on the upper fork bridge.- Remove the seat and fuel tank- Loosen the closure nut (2).- Use a sickle spanner to lightly tighten the adjusting nut

(3) until the fork-column bearing is free of play.

NOTEWhile the front wheel is raised, the fork must fall lightly to the left or right until it hits the stop.

WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENTIf while moving the handlebar to and fro it locks in some position/s, then the fork-column bearing must be replaced.

- Tighten the closing nut (2). Tightening torque: 40 Nm- Tighten the clamping screws (1) of the upper fork

bridge. Tightening torque: 25-28 Nm

Cleaning and greasing the sealing ring1. Put the motorcycle on sturdy standards and take the

weight off the front wheel.2. Check that the fork-column bearing runs smoothly. If

it does not, or if it locks, remove the telescopic fork, check the fork-column bearings and sealing rings for damage, then clean, grease and - if necessary - re-place them.

SFM 675 006.3-1

2

1

30


31


Charging the battery

After a long lay-up (3-4 months), charge the battery. The charging current (in amperes) must not exceed 1/10th of the battery capacity (Ah). The battery must not be fast-charged. The battery may only be charged using a special charger approved for MF batteries.

MaintenanceAlthough the battery is maintenance-free. Never leave the battery discharged. Keep the battery clean and dry and make sure that the connection terminals are firmly seated.

Removing and installing the batteryThe battery (1) is located beneath the seat.

Remove the seat.- Remove the screw (2) and remove the seat in a

rearwards direction (see the arrow).

CAUTIONThe battery may only be connected or discon-nected while the ignition is inactive. First disconnect the minus terminal (black cable). When installing the battery, first connect the plus terminal (red cable). The battery is maintenance-free. Do not try to open it.

Checking/charging the battery

- Check the battery fastening.- Check that the battery cables (1 and 2) are cor-

rectly connected.- Check the charging voltage, current loss, charged

condition- charge the battery as necessary.

2

4

3

1

3

SFM 675 026.3-1

1

3

632

5

4

SFM 675 027.3-1

32


33


Fuel tankRemoving/installing the fuel tankRemoving the fuel tank:1. Removing the seat.2. Close the fuel cock (1), loosen the hose clamp

and pull off the fuel hose (2).3. Remove the screw (3), washers and support

rings.

NOTEWhen removing the fuel tank, be careful not to lose the support bodies (rubber bearings). When lowering the fuel tank, be careful not to dama-ge the paint.

4. Remove the fuel tank (4).Installing the fuel tank:5. Reassemble in reverse order

Removing/installing the fuel cockRemoving the fuel cock:1. Completely drain the fuel tank.2. Loosen the hose clamps (3) and pull off the fuel

hose (4) and overflow hose (5).3. Remove the fuel cock (1).4. Clean the sieve (6).

Installing the fuel cock:NOTEIn principle, the sealing ring (2) must be replaced.5. Reassemble in reverse order.

51

4

3

2

6

7

1

SFM 675 028.3-1

2

2

1

3

SFM 675 029.3-1

32


33


Removing/installing the tank filler neck

1. Remove the screws (1) and the tank filler neck (2).

2. Remove the seat (6) and sealing rings (7), then check the sealing ring; replace, if necessary.

3. Remove the screws (3), cover (4) and gasket (5).4. Check the gasket (5); replace, if necessary.5. Install the gasket (5) and cover (4) and fasten

them with the screws (3).

NOTEWhen installing these, make sure that the bore hole for the tank overflow is free.

6. Install the gasket (7), the seat (6) and the preas-sembled tank filler neck (2); fasten with the screws (1).

Removing/installing the front-wheel guard

Removing the front-wheel guard:1. Pull off the speedometer-shaft holder (1).2. Remove the screws (2) along with the washers.

NOTEWhen lowering the front-wheel guard, be careful not to damage the paint.

3. Remove the front-wheel guard (3).Installing the front-wheel guard:4. Reassemble in reverse order.

34


35


Removing/installing the ignition fork-column lock

Removing the ignition fork-column lock:

NOTEThe pull-off screws (3) must be opened using a centre punch or chisel.1. Remove the full covering and headlamps. Disconnect the plug (1).2. Remove the pull-off screws (3) and remove the

ignition fork-column lock (2) from the fork bridge (4).

Installing the ignition fork-column lock:

NOTEAlways use new pull-of f screws (3).3. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removing the cover holder:

1. Remove the full covering and headlamps.2. Remove the screws (6) with washers (7) and nuts

(8) and remove the cover holder (5).

Installing the cover holder:3. Reassemble in reverse order.

34


35


6

45

3

28

1

17

7

9

15

1413

16

12

11

10SFM 675 034.3

17

16

12

1011

1314

15

12

6

7

3

54

9

8

SFM 675 035.3

36


37


FootrestsRemoving/installing the front-right footrestfootbrake unit

Removing the front-right footrest/footbrake unit:1. Remove the nut (1) with washer (2) and take out

the ball-and-socket joint (3) of the brake cylinder.2. Remove the screw (4) with washer (5), and remove

the footrest (16) and footbrake lever (8) and sliding bush (7) from the footrest support (6).

NOTEThe rubber support (9) of the footbrake lever (8) can be replaced.3. Remove the pin (15) and remove the washer (14)

and spring (13).4. Remove the bolt (10) with washer (11) and remove

the footrest (16) from the seat (12) of the brake lever (8).

Installing the front-right footrest/footbrake unit:

NOTEIn principle, use a new pin (15).5. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removing/installing the front-left footrestfootbrake unit

Removing the front-left footrest/footbrake unit:1. Remove the nut (1) with washer (2) and take out

the ball-and-socket joint from the foot-pedal rod (3).

2. Remove the screw (4) with washer (5) and remove the footrest (16) with the footbrake pedal lever (8) and the sliding bush (7) from the footrest support (6).

NOTEThe rubber seat (9) of the foot-pedal lever (8) can be replaced.3. Remove the pin (15) and remove the washer (14)

and spring (13).4. Remove the bolt (10) with washer (11) and remove

the footrest (16) from the seat (12) of the foot-pedal lever (8).

Installing the front-left footrest/footbrake unit:NOTEIn principle, use a new pin (15). The foot-pe-dal lever position can be adjusted. Loosen the screw (17), pull of f the switching-lever rod (3) and install it offset on the switching-shaft outlet.Rotate the switching-lever rod (3) to obtain a fine adjustment.5. Reassemble in reverse order.

4

3

5

89

12

67

SFM 675 037.3-1

54

11

712

11

13

6

9

54

13 12

8

1153

6

3

2

10

14

SFM 675 039.3-1

36


37


Removing/installing the rear footrestsRemoving the rear footrests:1. Remove the pin (8) and washer (9).

NOTEWhen removing the footrest (4), be careful not to lose the spring (5), ball (6) or plate (7) for the footrest lock.2. Remove the bolt (1) with washer (2) and remove

the footrest (4) with spring (5), ball (6) and plate (7) of the footrest lock from the footrest support (3).

Installing the rear footrest:NOTEIn principle, use a new pin (8).3. Reassemble in reverse order

Removing/installing the half-handlebar Removing the half-handlebar:

1. Remove the seat and the fuel tank.2. Remove the left- and right-hand handlebar

fittings and the combination switches.3. Separate the plug connection (14) from the

ignition lock and loosen the cable binder.4. Remove the screws (4) with the washers

(5).5. Remove the cover (15), then remove the

closing nut (1) and screws (3) and take off the fork bridge (2) upwards.

6. Remove the screws (6) and from the left-hand stand pipe (9) or from the right-hand stand pipe (10) pull off the left-hand half-handlebar (7) or the right-hand half-handlebar (8) in an upward direction.

Installing the half-handlebar:NOTEThe closing plugs (11 and 12) can be replaced.When removing the closing plugs (12), the rivets (13) must be bored. While installing, push in the closing plugs (12) and fasten them with the rivets (13).7. Reassemble in reverse order.

Tightening torque for screw (1): 40 NmTightening torque for screws (3): 40 NmTightening torque for screws (4): 24-26 Nm

38


39


Removing/installing the left-hand handlebar mounting part

Removing the combination switch:1. Remove the seat and the fuel tank.

2. Bore out the rivet (12) and take off the handlebar plug 11).

NOTE

Push a screwdriver between the rubber grip (10) and the handlebar pipe (1) and spray in tyre-mounting fluid.

3. Pull off the rubber grip (10).

4. Disconnect the choke cable (9) and remove the choke lever (8).

5. Separate the plug connection from the combination switch (5) and disconnect the cable binder.

6. Remove the screws (6 and 7) and take the combination switch (5) off the handlebar (1).

Installing the combination switch7. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removing the clutch fittings:8. Disconnect the clutch cable (13).

9. Remove the screws (4) and remove the holder (3) and clutch fittings (2).

Installing the clutch fittings:10. Reassemble in reverse order.

38


39


Removing/installing the right-hand handlebar mounting part

Removing the combination switch:1. Remove the seat and fuel tank

2. Separate the plug connections from the combination switch (3), separate the cable binder.

3. Remove the screws (2), disconnect the cable (4), then remove the combination switch (3) and the throttle (1) from the half-handlebar (13).

Installing the combination switch:Connect the cable (4) and adjust it.

4. Reassemble in reverse order.

Removing the brake fitting:

CAUTIONBrake fluid damages paint and plastic parts. Use new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.5. Separate the cable (14) from the brake-light switch.

6. Remove the screw (9) and the brake-fluid container (15).

7. Remove the banjo bolt (10) with sealing rings (11) and seal the brake line (12).

8. Remove the screws (7 and 8) and take off the holder (6) and brake fitting (5).

Installing the brake fitting:

NOTEIn principle, the sealing rings (11) of the brake-line connection must be replaced.


10. Top up the brake fluid and vent the brake system.

12cm

H

5mH

SFM 680 099.3

40


41


Checking/adjusting the headlamp

Position the motorcycle on a level floor 5 m in front of a light-coloured wall (measured from the headlamp) with the rider seated on the bike and the tyres at the correct pressure.- Measure the distance from the floor to the centre

of the headlamp (H) then mark this distance on the wall with a cross. Draw a second cross 12 cm underneath the first cross.

- Start the motorcycle and allow the engine to run.

WARNING - RISK OF ASPHYXIATIONDo not run the engine in an enclosed space! Risk of asphyxiation.

Adjusting the headlight- Activate the dipped beam. Use the adjusting screw (1 and 2) to adjust the angle

of the asymmetrically illuminated surface area of the road top.

screw 1 = height adjustment screw 2 = side adjustment

40


41


Checking the tyre profile and pressure

Checking the tyre profile:

WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENTObserve the legally prescribed minimum-profile depth.

- Measure the profile depth. Recommended minimum profile depth: 2.5 mm

- If the profile depth is less than the minimum, replace the tyre.

Check the tyre pressure:

Air pressure solo with passenger

Front 1.9 bar 1.9 bar

Rear 2.1 bar 2.3 bar

Checking the wheels for damage

- Check the wheels for any damage; replace if neces-sary.

- Requirements for the check: the column top bea-

ring, rear-wheel swing bearings, shock absorbers and tyres should be in order. Take a test ride. If the wheels/chassis do/does not move smoothly, align the wheels and check for wobble and height damage.

Checking the wheel bearings for play and damage

- Put the motorcycle on its standard, then check the wheel bearings by pushing the wheel to and fro to check for play. The bearings should not have a noticeable play; if play is noticeable, the bearings must be replaced.

- Rotate the wheel by hand. The wheel bearings should run evenly rather than roughly. Wheel bearings which run roughly must be replaced.

Checking the rear-wheel telescopic leg for opera-tion and leaks

- Firmly push down on the rear of the motorcycle several times. The rear-wheel telescopic leg must move in and out evenly without deformation.

- Check the rear-wheel telescopic leg for leaks, and the springs and fastening points for damage.

Checking the control cables for damage and smooth operation

- Check the choke, throttle and clutch cables for da-mage and smooth operation. Damaged or obstructed cables must be replaced.

- Adjust the cables.

Checking/greasing the side standard

- Check springs, fastening screws for firm seats. The side standard must independently fold back.

- Grease all moving parts.

Checking/repairing the exhaust system

- Check exhaust manifolds, silencers and gaskets for leaks; replace any faulty parts.

- Check rubber bearings for damage; replace, if ne-cessary.

- Tighten nuts and screws.

Tightening torques: Exhaust manifold cylinders: 15 Nm End silencer fastening: 10 Nm Exhaust fastening (rubber bearing): 20 Nm

Checking the rear-wheel vibration bearing

- Check the rear-wheel swing bearing for smooth operation and wear; if necessary, replace the swing bearing.

Final inspection

- Prepare for traffic safety: check the clutch, gear shifting, idle speed, handbrake and footbrake, handlebar control, indicator lights, light and signal systems; adjust as necessary.

- Check the tyre pressure; adjust if necessary.

- Take a test ride.

42


43


Removing/installing the exhaust system

Removing the exhaust system:1. Hang out the spring (1).2. Remove screws (2) with washers (3).3. Remove screws (4) with washers (5), nut (6) and remove the exhaust pipe (7).4. Hang out the spring (7).5. Remove the screws (8), rubber bearing (9) with washers (10) and nuts (11).6. Remove the exhaust pipe (12) and muffler (13).

Installing the exhaust system::

NOTEBefore reinstalling, check the rubber bearings (14 and 9) and replace if necessary.In principle, the gasket must be replaced.7. Reassemble in reserve order.

Tightening torque::Screws (2): 22-25 NmScrew (4): 22-25 NmScrews (9): 10 Nm

42


43


ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

The procedure for engine disassembly is sequentially explained in the following steps.

- Remove the cylinder head cover (2).- Remove the spark plug.

- Remove the valve timing inspection plug (3) and generator cover cap (4).

- Rotate the crankshaft and align the „T‘ line on the generator rotor with the center of the hole in the generator cover.

- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster cap and insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slotted end of the cam chain tension adjuster. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to lock the spring tension.

- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster.

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

The procedure for engine disassembly is sequentially explained in the following steps.

- Remove the cylinder head cover (2).- Remove the spark plug.

- Remove the valve timing inspection plug (3) and generator cover cap (4).

- Rotate the crankshaft and align the „T‘ line on the generator rotor with the center of the hole in the generator cover.

- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster cap and insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slotted end of the cam chain tension adjuster. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to lock the spring tension.

- Remove the cam chain tension adjuster.

44


45


- Remove the camshaft holders.

- Remove the intake(1) and exhaust (2) camshafts.- Remove the cam chain guide (3).

- Remove the engine oil pipe (4).

- Remove the cylinder head (5) by removing the bolts and nuts.

- Remove the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cylinder (6) by removing the cylinder

base nuts.

44


45


- Remove the cylinder gasket.- Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to prevent

the piston pin circlip (1) from dropping into the crankcase. Then, remove the piston pin circlip with long-nose pliers.

- Remove the piston pin using the special tools.

Tool: 09910-34510: Piston pin puller

- Remove the piston.

- Remove the starter motor (2).

- Remove the clutch cover (3).

- While holding the generator rotor nut, remove the clutch spring mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern, and remove the clutch springs and clutch pressure plate (4).

46


47


- Remove the clutch release rack (1) and clutch release bearing (2) from the clutch pressure plate.

- Remove the clutch drive and driven plates.

- Flatten the lock washer (3) and remove the clutch sleeve hub nut using the special tool.

Tool: 09920-53740: Clutch sleeve hub holder

- Remove the thrust washer (4) and primary driven gear assembly (5).

- Remove the spacer (6) and washer (7).

46


47


- Remove the gearshift shaft (1) and washer (2).

- Remove the gearshift cam plate (3) by removing the gearshift cam plate bolt (4).

- Remove the gearshift cam stopper arm (5) by removing the gearshift cam stopper arm shaft and nut.

- Remove the generator cover (6).

- Remove the strator coil (7) and pick-up coil (8).

- Remove the spacer (9), shaft (10), starter idle gear (11) and oil sump filter (12).

48


49


CAUTIONThe nut (1) has a lefthand thread. Turning anticlockwise may cause damage.

- Remove the primary drive gear nut (1) using the special tool.

Tool: 09930-44512: Rotor holder

- Remove the washers (2) and primary drive gears (3).

- Remove the key (4) and oil pump drive gear (5).

- Remove the E-ring (6) and oil pump driven gear (7).

- Remove the spacer (8), pin (9) and oil pump (10).

- Remove the balancer shaft bolt and washer using the special tool.


- Remove the generator rotor nut using the special tool.


48


49


- Remove the generator rotor (1) using the special tool.

Tool: 09930-34951: Rotor remover

- Remove the generator rotor key (2).- Remove the cam chain (3).- Remove the cam chain tensioner guide (4).

- Remove the oil seal retainer (5) and engine sprocket spacer (6).

- Remove the gear position switch (7).

- Remove the gear position switch contact (8), spring (9) and O-ring (10).

- Remove the crankcase bolts.

50


51


- Separate the right and left crankcases using the special tool.

Tool: 09920-13120: Crankcase separator

- Remove the gearshift fork shafts (1) gearshift forks (2) and gearshift cam (3).

- Remove the transmission.

- Remove the washer (4) and kick starter drive gear (5).

- Remove the kick starter guide bolts and kick starter shaft (6) along with the kick starter (7).

50


51


- Remove the crankshaft driven gears along with the balancershaft.

- Remove the crankshaft using the special tool.Tool: 09920-13120: Crankcase separator

A

A

52


53


ENGINE COMPONENTS INSPECTION AND

SERVICE

BEARINGS

BEARING INSPECTIONWhile the bearing is in the crankcase, rotate its inner

race and check to see that it turns smoothly. If it does

not turn quietly and smoothly, or if there are signs of

any abnormalities, the bearing is defective and must

be replaced as follows.

A = Play

LEFT DRIVESHAFT BEARING- Remove the bearing retainer (1).

- Remove the oil seal using the special tool.

Tool: 09913-50121: Oil seal remover

CAUTIONThe removed oil seal should be replaced with a new one.- Remove the washer (2).

- Remove the left driveshaft bearing using the special tool.

Tool: 09922-55131: Countershaft remover

CAUTIONThe removed bearing should be replaced with a new one.

- Install the left driveshaft bearing using the special

tool.

Tool: 09913-75810: Bearing installer

52


53


- Install the oil seal using the special tool.

- Apply a small quantity of SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" to the lip of the oil seal.

SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A"


- Tighten the bearing retainer screws to the specified torque.

Bearing retainer screw: 8.5 Nm

RIGHT DRIVESHAFT BEARINGRemove the right driveshaft bearing using the special tool.

Tool: 09943-88211: Pinion bearing installer


- Install the right driveshaft bearing using the special tool.


LEFT COUNTERSHAFT BEARING

- Remove the left countershaft bearing using the

special tools.

Tool: 09921-20210: Bearing removerSliding hammer


54


55


- Install the left countershaft bearing using the special tool.

Tool: 09913-75821: Bearing installer attachment

RIGHT COUNTERSHAFT BEARING- Remove the bearing retainer (1).- Remove the right countershaft bearing using the special tool.


CAUTIONThe removed bearing should be replaced with a

now one.

- Install the right countershaft bearing using the special tool.


- Align the recesses (2) on the bearing retainer with the lug (3) on the right crankcase.



CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS- Remove the left and right crankshaft bearings

using the special tool.Tool: 09913-75810: Bearing installer

CAUTIONThe removed bearings should be replaced with new ones.

54


55


- Install the left and right crankshaft bearings using the special tool.


BALANCER SHAFT BEARINGS- Remove the left balancer shaft bearing (1).


- Remove the right balancer shaft bearing using the special tool.


CAUTIONThe removed bearing should be replaced with a now one.

- Install the left and right balancer shaft bearings using the special tool.


GEARSHIFT CAM BEARING- Remove the bearing retainer (1).- Remove the gearshift cam bearing using the special tool.



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- Install the gearshift cam bearing using the special tool.




CYLINDER HEAD

DISASSEMBLY- Remove the intake pipe (1).

CAUTIONThe removed 0-ring (2) should be replaced with a new one.

- Remove the tappets (2) and shims (4) by hand or with a magnet.

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- Compress the valve spring and remove the valve cotters (1) from the valve stem using the special tools.

Tool: 09916-14510: Valve lifter09916-14530: Valve lifter attachmentTweezers

- Remove the valve spring retainer (2), valve spring (3) and valve spring seat (4).

- Pull out the valve (5) through the opposite side.

NOTERemoving the valves completes normal disassembly. If the valve guides need to be removed for replacement after related parts have beeen checked, follow the steps referring to servicing the valve guide.

CYLINDER HEAD DISTORTIONDecarbonize the combustion chamber.Check the gasket surface of the cylinder head for distortion using a straightedge and thickness gauge. Take clearance readings at several places. If readings exceed the service limit, replace the cylinder head.

Tool: Thickness gaugeService Limit: 0.05 mm

VALVE FACE WEARThe thickness of the valve face decreases as the face wears. Visually inspect each valve face for wear and replace any valve with an abnormally worn face. Measure the valve face thickness (T). If it is out of specification, replace the valve with a new one.

Tool: Vernier calipersService Limit: 0.5 mm

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VALVE STEM RUN OUTSupport the valve using V-blocks, as shown, and measure, its run out with the dial gauge. If the run out exceeds the limit, replace the valve.

Tool:Magnetic standDial gauge (1/100 mm)V-block set (100 mm)

Service Limit: 0.05 mm

VALVE HEAD RADIAL RUN OUTPlace the dial gauge at a right angle to the valve head face and measure the valve head radial run out.If it measures more than the service limit, replace the valve.

Tool:Magnetic standDial gauge (1/100 mm)V-block set (100 mm)


VALVE STEM DEFLECTIONLift the valve about 10 mm from the valve seat. Measure the valve stem deflection in two directions, "X" and "Y", perpendicular to each other. Position the dial gauge as shown. If the deflection exceeds the service limit, then determine whether the valve or the guide should be replaced with a new one.

Tool:Magnetic standDial gauge (1/100 mm)

Service LimitIntake and exhaust valves: 0.35 mm

VALVE STEM WEARMeasure the valve stem O.D. using the micrometer. If it is out of specification, replace the valve with a new one. If the valve stem O.D. is within specification but the valve stem deflection is not, replace the valve guide. After replacing the valve or valve guide, re check the clearance.Tool: Micrometer (0-25 mm)

StandardValve stem O.D. IN.: 4.475-4.490 mm EX.: 4.455-4.470 mmNOTEIf valve guides have to be replaced, refer to the valve guide servicing steps below.

1

2

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VALVE GUIDE SERVICE- Remove the valve guide using the special tool.

Tool 09916-43210: Valve guide installer

NOTEDiscard the removed valve guide subassemblies.Only oversized valve guides are available as replacement parts.

- Re-finish the valve guide hole in the cylinder head using the special tools.

Tool 09916-34580: Valve guide reamer (10.8 mm),handle

NOTEInsert the reamer from the combustion chamber side and always turn the reamer handle clockwise.

- Install a ring (1) onto each valve guide (2).- Oil the stem hole of each valve guide and drive the

guide into the guide hole using the special tool.

Tool 09916-43210: Valve guide installer

CAUTIONBe sure to use a new valve guide ring and valve guide.

- After installing the valve guides, re-finish their guiding bores using the special tools. Be sure to clean and oil the guides after reaming.

Tool 09916-33210: Valve guide reamer (4.5 mm)Handle

VALVE SEAT WIDTH- Coat the valve seat uniformly with Prussian blue.

Install the valve and attach a valve lapper onto it. Tap the coated seat with the valve face in a rotating manner, in order to obtain a clear impression of the seating contact.

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- The ring-like dye impression left on the valve face must be continuous without any breaks. In addition, the width of the dye ring, which is the valve seat width, must be within the following specification:

StandardValve seat width (w): 0.9-1.1 mm

If the valve seat is out of specification, recut the seat.

VALVE SEAT SERVICEThe valve seats for both intake and exhaust valves are machined to four different angles. (The seat contact surface is cut 45°.)

INTAKE SIDE EXHAUST SIDE

45° N-131 45° N-131

30° N-126 15° N-130

60° N-111

Tool:09916-21110: Valve seat cutter set09916-24410: Valve seat cutter (N-111)09916-24460: Valve seat cutter (N-130)09916-24470: Valve seat cutter (N-131)09916-20630: Valve seat cutter (N-126)09916-20640: Solid pilot (N-100-4.5)

NOTEThe valve seat contact area must be inspected after each cut.

- When installing the solid pilot (1), rotate it slightly. Seat the pilot snugly. Install the 45° cutter, attachment and T- handle.

- Using the 45° cutter, descale and clean up the seat. Rotate the cutter one or two turns.

- Measure the valve seat width after every cut. If the valve seat is pitted or burned, use the 45° cutter to condition the seat some more.

NOTECut only the minimum amount necessary from the seat to avoid having to replace the tappet shim.If the contact area is too high on the valve, or if it is too wide, use the 15° cutter (for the exhaust side) and the 30°/ 60° cutters (for the intake side) to lower and narrow the contact area.

INTAKE

VALVE SEAT

EXHAUST

VALVE SEAT

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If the contact area is too low or too narrow, use the 45° cutter to raise and widen the contact area.

- After the desired seat position and width is achieved, use the 45° cutter very lightly to clean up any burrs caused by the previous cutting operations.

CAUTIONDO NOT use lapping compound after the final cut is made. The finished valve seat should have a velvety smooth finish and not a highly polished or shiny finish. This will provide a soft surface for the final seating of the valve which will occur during the first few seconds of engine operation.

- Clean and assemble the head and valve components. Fill the intake and exhaust ports with gasoline to check for leaks. If any leaks occur, inspect the valve seat and face for burrs or other things that could prevent the valve from sealing.

WARNINGAlways use extreme caution when handling gasoline.

NOTEAfter servicing the valve seats, be sure to check the tappet clearance after the cylinder has been reinstalled.

VALVE SPRINGSCheck the valve springs for proper strength by measuring their free length and also the force required to compress them. If the spring length is less than the service limit or if the force required to compress the spring does not fall within the specified range, replace the spring.

Tool: Vernier calipers

Service LimitValve spring free length: 37.8 mm

StandardValve spring tension: 12.1-13.9 kg / 33.7 mm

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REASSEMBLYReassemble the cylinder head in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:- Install each valve spring seat (1).

- Lubricate the valve stem seal with oil, and press-fit the seal into position by hand.

CAUTIONDo not reuse the valve stem seals.

- Insert the valves with their stems coated with high quality molybdenum disulfide lubricant (SUZUKI MOLY PASTE). Coat the entire stem making sure that there are no gaps.Also, be sure to oil the valve stem seal lip.

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE

CAUTIONWhen inserting each valve, take care not to damage the lip of the stem seal.

- Install the valve springs with the smaller pitch (A) facing the cylinder head.

Towards

Head

Towards

Head

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- Install the valve spring retainer (1), press down the spring using the valve lifter and then install the cotter halves onto the valve stem end. Then, release the valve lifter to allow the cotter (2) to wedge between the retainer and the valve stem. Be sure that the rounded lip (3) of the cotter fits snugly into the groove (4) in the stem end.

Tool 09916-14510: Valve lifter09916-14530: Valve lifter attachmentTweezers

CAUTIONBe sure to install all of the parts in their original positions.

NOTEApply engine oil to the tappet shim and tappet before installing them.

CAMSHAFTCAMSHAFT INSPECTIONIf the engine produces abnormal noises, vibration or lacks power, a camshaft may be distorted or worn to the service limit. The camshaft runout should be checked. Also, check the cams and journals for wear or damage.The exhaust camshaft has the embossed letters "EX" and the intake camshaft has the embossed letters "IN".

CAM WEARWorn-down cams are often the cause of mistimed valve operation resulting in reduced power output.Measure the cam height (H) using the micrometer. Replace a camshaft if the cams are worn to the service limit.Tool: Micrometer (25-50 mm)

Service LimitCam height (H) IN: 34.650 mm EX: 33.950 mm

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CAMSHAFT JOURNAL WEARDetermine whether or not each journal is worn down to the limit by measuring the oil clearance with the camshaft installed in place. Measure the clearance using the plastigauge (1).

Tool 09900-22302: Plastigauge

NOTEInstall each camshaft journal holder to its original position. Tighten the camshaft journal holder bolts evenly and diagonally to the specified torque.

Camshaft journal holder bolt: 10 Nm

NOTEDo not rotate the camshafts with the plastigauge in place. Remove the camshaft journal holders and measure the width of the compressed plastigauge using the envelope scale. This measurement should be taken at the widest part of the compressed plastigauge.

Service LimitCamshaft-Journal oil clearance (IN & EX):0.150 mm

If the camshaft journal oil clearance exceeds the limit, measure the inside diameter of the camshaft journal holder and the outside diameter of the camshaft journal. Replace the camshaft or the cylinder head depending upon which one exceeds the specification.

Tool: Small bore gauge

StandardCamshaft journal holder I.D. (IN & EX):22.012-22.025 mm

Tool: Micrometer (0-25 mm)

StandardCamshaft journal O.D. (IN & EX):21.959-21.980 mm

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CAMSHAFT RUNOUTMeasure the runout using a dial gauge. Replace the camshaft if the runout exceeds the limit.

Tool: Dial gauge (1/100 mm)Magnetic standV-block set (100 mm)

Service LimitCamshaft runout (IN & EX): 0.10 mm

CAM SPROCKET- When installing each camshaft sprocket to each camshaft, align, mark "I" with notch (1) and pin (2)

on the intake camshaft, or mark "E" with notch (3) and pin (4) on the exhaust camshaft.

- Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to the threads of the camshaft sprocket bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.

THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303"

Camshaft sprocket bolt: 11 Nm

- Be sure to bend the tabs on the camshaft sprocket lock washer so the bolts lock.

CAM CHAIN TENSION ADJUSTERThe cam chain tension adjuster is maintained at the proper tension by an automatically adjusted tensioner.Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the slotted end of the cam chain tension adjuster and turn it clockwise to release the tension. Remove the screwdriver to make sure that the push rod moves properly. If the push rod is stuck or the spring mechanism does not work, replace the cam chain tension adjuster assembly with a new one.

CYLINDERDISTORTIONCheck the gasket surface of the cylinder for distortion using a straightedge and thickness gauge. Take clearance readings at several places. If any reading exceeds the service limit, replace the cylinder.



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CYLINDER BOREMeasure the cylinder bore diameter at six places.If any one of the measurements exceed the limit, overhaul the cylinder and replace the piston with an oversize piston, or replace the cylinder.

Tool: Cylinder gauge set


PISTON AND PISTON PINDIAMETERMeasure the piston diameter using the micrometer at 15 mm from the skirt end.If the piston diameter is less than the service limit, replace the piston.

Tool: Micrometer (50-75 mm)

Service Limit: 56.850 mmPiston oversize: 0.5, 1.0 mm

PISTON-CYLINDER CLEARANCESubtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore diameter. If the piston-to-cylinder clearance exceeds the service limit, rebore the cylinder and use an oversize piston or replace both the cylinder and the piston.


PISTON RING-GROOVE CLEARANCEMeasure the side clearances of the 1st and 2nd piston rings using the thickness gauge. If any of the clearances exceed the limit, replace both the piston and piston rings.

Tool: Thickness gaugeMicrometer (0-25 mm)

Service LimitPiston ring-groove clearance1st: 0.18 mm2nd: 0.15 mm

Piston ring groove width1st: 1.01-1.03 mm2nd: 1.01-1.03 mmOil: 2.01-2.03 mm

Piston ring thickness 1st and 2nd: 0.97-0.99 mm

NOTERemove any carbon from the piston crown and ring grooves using soft-metal scraper.

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PISTON RING END GAPFit the piston ring squarely into the cylinder and measure the piston ring end gap using a thickness gauge.If the piston ring‘s end gap is out of specification, replace the piston ring.


Service LimitPiston ring end gap 1st and 2nd: 0.50 mm

OVERSIZE RINGSOversize piston ringThe following oversize piston ring is used. It bears the following identification number.Piston ring 1st and 2nd 0.5 mm: 50 1.0 mm: 100

Oversize oil ringThe following oversize oil ring is used. It bears the following identification mark.

Oil ring 0.5 mm: Painted red 1.0 mm: Painted yellow A = Paint

Oversize side railMeasure the outside diameter to identify the size.

PIN BOREMeasure the piston pin bore inside diameter using the dial calipers and measure the piston pin outside diameter using the micrometer. If either is out of specification or the difference between these two measurements is more than the limits, replace both the piston and piston pin.

Tool: Dial calipersMicrometer (0-25 mm)

Service LimitPiston pin bore: 15.030 mmPiston pin O.D.: 14.980 mm

Oil ring spacer

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CRANKSHAFT AND CONROD

CONROD SMALL END I.D.Measure the conrod small end inside diameter using the dial calipers. If the conrod small end inside diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the conrod.Tool: Dial calipersService Limit: 16.040 mm

1 Balancer drive gear

2 Key

3 Pin

4 Crankshaft, RH

5 Conrod

6 Bearing

7 Crank Pin

8 Crankshaft, RH

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CONROD DEFLECTION AND CONROD BIG END SIDE CLEARANCEWear on the big end of the conrod can be estimated by checking the movement of the small end of the rod. This method can also check the extent of wear on the parts of the conrod‘s big end.

Tool: Magnetic standDial gauge (11100 mm)V-block set (100 mm)


Push the big end of the conrod to one side and measure the side clearance using a thickness gauge.


Standard: 0.10-0.45 mmService Limit: 1.00 mm

If the service limit is exceeded, replace the crankshaft assembly or bring the deflection and side clearance into specification by replacing the worn parts (e.g., conrod, big end bearing and crank pin).

CRANKSHAFT RUNOUTSupport the crankshaft with V-blocks as shown. Position the dial gauge, as shown, and rotate the crankshaft slowly to read the runout. Correct the runout or replace the crankshaft assembly if the runout is greater than the service limit.

Tool: Magnetic standDial gauge (1/100 mm)V-block set (100 mm)


REASSEMBLY- When rebuilding the crankshaft, the width between

the webs should be within the standard range.

Standard width between webs (A): 53±0.1 mm

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DISASSEMBLY- Remove the crankshaft driven gears.

- Remove the circlip and washer using the special tool.

Tool: Snap ring pliers

- Separate crankshaft driven gear No. 2 (1), crankshaft driven gear No.1 (2) and the springs (3).

BALANCER SHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT DRIVEN GEARS

1 Balancer shaft2 Key

3 Driven gear set

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STARTER CLUTCH AND STARTER DRIVEN GEAR BEARING

1 Starter driven gear

2 Bearing

3 Starter clutch

4 Generator rotor

STARTER CLUTCHInstall the starter driven gear onto the starter clutch and turn the starter driven gear by hand (the gear turns in only one direction). The starter driven gear should turn smoothly. If excessive resistance is felt while turning the starter driven gear, inspect the starter clutch. Also, inspect the surface of the starter driven gear which contacts the starter clutch, for wear or damage. If any wear or damage is found, replace the defective parts.

Inspect the balancer shaft and key for wear or damage.

REASSEMBLYReassemble the balancer shaft and crankshaft driven gears in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:- Install the spring washer (1) and circlip (2) using

the special tool.

Tool: Snap ring pliers

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STARTER DRIVEN GEAR BEARINGInstall the starter driven gear bearing and gear onto the crankshaft and turn the starter driven gear by hand. Inspect the starter driven gear bearing for smooth rotation and any abnormal noise. If the bearing does not turn smoothly or there is any abnormal noise, replace it.

DISASSEMBLY- Hold the generator rotor with the rotor holder and

remove the starter clutch bolts.

Tool: Z 90 890 01701: Rotor holder

REASSEMBLY- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK SUPER

"1303" to the starter clutch bolts and tighten them to the specified torque while holding the rotor holder.


Starter clutch bolt: 10 Nm

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TRANSMISSION

DISASSEMBLY- Disassemble the transmission gears as shown in the illustration.

NOTEWhen removing the 2nd drive gear, use a gear puller and a proper attachment.

1 Countershaft

2 5th drive gear

3 3rd/4th drive gear

4 2nd drive gear

5 Driveshaft

6 2nd driven gear

7 3rd driven gear

8 4th driven gear

9 5th driven gear

10 1st (low) driven gear

REASSEMBLYAssemble the countershaft and driveshaft in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:

NOTEBefore installing the gears, lightly coat the driveshaft and countershaft with moly paste or engine oil.

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE

CAUTION

Never reuse a circlip. After a circlip has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new circlip

must be installed.

When installing a now circlip, do not expand the end gap larger than required to slip the circlip over the

shaft.

After installing a circlip, make sure that it is completely seated in its groove and securely fitted.

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- When installing a new circlip, pay attention to the direction of the circlip. Fit the circlip to the side where the thrust is, as shown in the illustration. The rounded side should be against the gear surface.

- Press fit the 2nd drive gear onto the countershaft. Before reassembling, coat the internal face of the 2nd drive gear with THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" and install the gears so that the length (A) is as shown.

Countershaft length (A): 88.0 +0.1/0.0 mm(1st to 2nd)


NOTETake care not to smear THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" onto the 5th (top) drive gear.This procedure may be performed only twice before shaft replacement is required.

Thrust

Sharp edge

Assembling view transmission

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GEARSHIFT FORKSMeasure the gearshift fork clearance in the groove of its respective gear using the thickness gauge.The clearance for each of the two gearshift forks plays an important role in the smoothness and positiveness of the shifting action. Each fork has its prongs fitted into the annular groove provided in its gear. During operation there is sliding contact between the fork and gear and, when a shifting action is initiated, the fork pushes the gear axially. If the clearance is too great, the meshed gears may slip apart.If the clearance exceeds the specification, replace the fork, its respective gear or both.


Service LimitGearshift fork to groove clearance: 0.5 mm

StandardGearshift fork groove width No.1: 5.0-5.1 mm No.3: 5.5-5.6 mm

Gearshift fork thickness No.1: 4.8-4.9 mm No.3: 5.3-5.4 mm

PRIMARY DRIVE GEARSDISASSEMBLY- Separate primary drive gear No. 1 (1), No. 2 (2)

and the springs (3).

REASSEMBLY- Align the punch mark (4) in primary drive gear No. 2

with the groove (5) in primary drive gear No. 1.

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CLUTCH

CLUTCH DRIVE PLATESMeasure the thickness of the clutch drive plates using vernier calipers. If a clutch drive plate is not within the service limit, replace the clutch plates as a set.


Service LimitThickness: 2.6 mmClaw width: 11.0 mm

CLUTCH DRIVEN PLATESMeasure each clutch driven plate for distortion using the thickness gauge. If a clutch driven plate is not within the service limit, replace the clutch plates as a set.



CLUTCH SPRING FREE LENGTHMeasure the free length of each clutch spring using vernier calipers. If any spring is not within the service limit, replace all of the springs.



CLUTCH RELEASE BEARINGInspect the clutch release bearing for any abnormality, especially cracks. When removing the bearing from the clutch, decide whether it can be reused or if it should be replaced.Smooth engagement and disengagement of the clutch depends on the condition of this bearing.

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ENGINE REASSEMBLYReassemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. The following steps require special attention or precautionary measures should be taken.

COUTIONApply engine oil to each running and sliding part before reassembling.

CRANKSHAFT- When installing the crankshaft into the crankcase,

it is necessary to pull its left end into the left crankcase using the special tools.

- Apply engine oil to the crankshaft bearings.

Tool: 09910-32812: Crankshaft installer09910-20116: Conrod holder09911-11310: Attachment

CAUTIONNever install the crankshaft into the crankcase by striking it with a plastic hammer. Always use the special tool, otherwise the crankshaft may be misaligned.

BALANCER SHAFT- Align the punch mark (1) in the drive gear with the

hole (2) in the driven gear.

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KICK STARTER SHAFT

1 Kick starter shaft

2 Kick starter

3 Spring

4 Spring

5 Spring guide

6 Kick starter drive gear

- Align the punch mark (1) in the kick starter shaft with the punch mark (2) in the kick starter.

- Turn the kick starter shaft counterclockwise and then lock the kick starter with the kick starter guide.

- Install the kick starter drive gear (3) and washer (4).

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GEARSHIFT CAM AND GEARSHIFT FORKS- Install the transmission.- Install the gearshift forks and gearshift cam. (1): Gearshift fork No.1 (2): Gearshift fork No.3- Install the gearshift fork shafts (3, 4).

- Wipe both crankcase mating surfaces with a cleaning solvent.

- Apply SUZUKI BOND NO.1215 uniformly to the mating surface of the right crankcase and assemble the cases within a few minutes.

SUZUKI BOND NO. 1215

- Install the dowel pins (1) into the left half of the crankcase.

- Apply engine oil to the conrod big end and transmission gears.

NOTEWhen bolting the right and left hand crankcase housing tighten the screws only lightly once after the other, in order to generate even pressure.

- Tighten the crankcase bolts to the specified torque.

Crankcase bolt: 10 Nm

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NOTEAfter the crankcase bolts have been tightened, make sure that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.If the crankshaft does not rotate smoothly, try to free it by tapping the driveshaft or countershaft with a plastic hammer.

GEAR POSITION SWITCH- Install the spring (1) and gear position switch

contact (2) and new O-ring (3).- Install the gear position switch.

ENGINE SPROCKET SPACER- Apply SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" to the O-ring

(1) of the engine sprocket spacer and the oil seal lip (2), and then install the engine sprocket spacer onto the driveshaft.


CAUTIONUse a new O-ring (1).

- Install the oil seal retainer (3).

CAM CHAIN, CAM CHAIN TENSIONER GUIDE AND GENERATOR ROTOR- Engage the cam chain (1) onto the cam chain

drive sprocket.- Install the cam chain tensioner guide (2) and

tighten the bolt.

- Remove any grease from the tapered portion of the generator rotor and crankshaft.

- Install the generator rotor key (3).

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- Install the generator rotor securely.- Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to the

generator rotor nut and tighten it to the specified torque using the special tool.



Generator rotor nut: 80 Nm

OIL JET- Install the oil jet.

BALANCER SHAFT BOLT- Tighten the balancer shaft bolt to the specified

torque using the special tool.


Balancer shaft bolt: 50 Nm

OIL PUMP AND PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR- Install the spacer (1) onto the crankshaft.- Apply engine oil onto the sliding surfaces of the

oil pump case, outer rotor, inner rotor and shaft, before mounting the oil pump (2).

- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342" to the oil pump mounting screws and tighten them.

THREAD LOCK "1342"

- Install the pin (3).

- Install the oil pump driven gear (4) and E-ring (5).

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ITEM Nm

A 19

B 10

C 10

- Install the key (1) and the oil pump drive gear (2).

NOTE

Position the spacer (3) and oil pump drive gear (2), as

shown in the illustration.

- Install the primary drive gears (4), washer (5),

spring washer (6) and primary drive gear nut (7),

as shown in the illustration.

NOTEThe primary drive gear nut (7) has left-hand threads.

- Tighten the primary drive gear nut to the specified

torque using the special tool.

Tool: 09930-44512. Rotor holder

Primary drive gear nut: 50 Nm

GEARSHIFT SHAFT AND RELATION PARTS

1 Gearshift shaft

2 Return spring

3 Gearshift cam plate

4 Gearshift arm

5 Spring

A Gearshift arm stopper

B Gearshift cam plate bolt

C Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft

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- Apply THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to the threads of the gearshift cam stopper arm shaft and tighten it to the specified torque.


Gearshift cam stopper arm shaft: 10 Nm

- Align the hole (1) in the gearshift cam plate with the gearshift cam pin (2).

- Tighten the gearshift cam plate bolt (3) to the specified torque.

Gearshift cam plate bolt: 10 Nm

- Install the washer (4) and gearshift shaft (5).

- Properly install the gearshift spring (6) onto the gearshift arm stopper (7).

NOTEWhen installing the gearshift arm stopper (7), apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK SUPER "1303" to its threads and tighten to the specified torque.


Gearshift arm stopper: 19 Nm

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1 Clutch pressure plate

2 Clutch release bearing

3 Clutch release rack

4 Clutch drive plate

5 Clutch driven plate

6 Damper

7 Clutch sleeve hub

8 Primary driven gear

- Install the washer (1) and spacer (2) onto the countershaft.

NOTEApply engine oil to the inside and outside surfaces of the spacer.

- Install the primary driven gear assembly (3) and thrust washer (4) onto the countershaft.

NOTEWhen engaging the primary drive and driven gears, turn the primary driven gear assembly counterclockwise.

CLUTCH

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- Install the clutch sleeve hub and lock washer (1).

CAUTIONInstall the lock washer so that its tongue (2) is aligned with the flat portion of the clutch sleeve hub.

- Install the clutch sleeve hub nut and tighten it to the specified torque using the special tool.

TOOL: 09920-53740: Clutch sleeve hub holder

Clutch sleeve hub nut: 50 Nm

- After tightening the clutch sleeve hub nut, be sure to lock the nut by firmly bending the tongue of the lock washer.

- Install the four dampers (3) to the clutch drive plate and then install the drive plate onto the clutch sleeve hub (4).

CAUTIONWhen installing the drive plate, make sure that the damper (4 pcs) protrusions face towards the bottom.

- Install the clutch driven and drive plates one by one into the clutch sleeve hub.

- Install the clutch release rack (5) and clutch release bearing (6) into the clutch pressure plate (7).

NOTE.Face the bearing side of the clutch release bearing (6) towards the clutch release rack.

- Install the clutch pressure plate, clutch springs and clutch spring mounting bolts.

- Hold the generator rotor nut and tighten the clutch spring mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern.

NOTEMake sure that the clutch pressure plate is installed correctly.

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- Apply SUZUKI BOND NO.1215 to the right crankcase as shown.

SUZUKI BOND NO.1215

- Install the two dowel pins and new gasket.

- When installing the clutch cover, face the clutch release rack towards the pinion gear side.

- Tighten the clutch cover bolts to the specified torque.

Clutch cover bolt: 10 Nm

TOP

TOP

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PISTON AND PISTON RING- First, install a spacer (1) into the oil ring groove

and then install the two side rails (2). The spacer and side rails do not have a specific top or bottom when they are new. When reassembling used parts, install them in their original place and direction.

CAUTIONWhen installing the spacer, be careful not to allow its two ends to overlap into the piston ring groove.

- Some ways in which to distinguish the 1st and 2nd

piston rings: 1. Their ring face shapes are different. 2. The 1st piston ring‘s face is chrome-plated.

3. The 2nd piston ring appears darker in color.

- The 1st and 2nd piston rings should be installed

with their marks facing up.

- Position the piston ring gaps as shown. Before

inserting the piston into the cylinder, check that

the gaps are properly positioned.

INCORRECT

CORRECT

1st

2nd

1st ring

2nd ring

EX.

IN.1st ringSpacer

Upper side rail2nd ringLower side rail

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The following are reminders for piston installation:- Before installing the piston pin, apply a light coat of

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE onto its surface.

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE

- Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to prevent the piston pin circlip from dropping into the crankcase. Install the piston pin circlip (1) with long-nose pliers.

CAUTIONUse a new piston pin circlip (1) to prevent circlip failure.

- Install the piston with the arrow mark (2) facing towards the exhaust side.

CYLINDERBefore installing the cylinder, oil the big and small ends of the conrod and also the sliding surface of the piston.- Install the dowel pins (1) into the crankcase and

then install the cylinder gasket (2).

CAUTIONUse a new gasket to prevent oil leakage.

- Make sure that the piston rings are properly positioned, and insert the piston into the cylinder.

- Temporarily tighten the cylinder base nuts (3).

NOTEWhen mounting the cylinder, keep the cam chain taut. The cam chain must not be caught between the cam chain drive sprocket and crankcase when the crankshaft is rotated.

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CYLINDER HEAD

CAUTIONUse a new gasket to prevent oil leakage.

- Install the dowel pins (1) into the cylinder and then install the cylinder head gasket (2) onto the cylinder.

NOTEApply engine oil to the cylinder head bolts, washers before installing the cylinder head bolts.

- Place the cylinder head onto the cylinder.- Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified

torque in stages and in a crisscross pattern using a torque wrench.

Cylinder head bolt: Initial 13 Nm Final 25 Nm

- After tightening the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque, tighten the cylinder base nuts (3) and cylinder head nuts (4) to the specified torque.

Cylinder base nut (3): 10 NmCylinder head nut (4): 10 Nm

CAMSHAFTCAUTIONIf the crankshaft is turned without drawing the cam chain upward, the cam chain will catch between crankcase and cam chain drive sprocket.

- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise and align the "T"- line (A) on the generator rotor with the index mark (B) on the crankcase while keeping the cam chain tight.

NOTEJust before installing the camshaft into the cylinder head, apply SUZUKI MOLY PASTE to the camshaft journals. Fully coat each journal (C), taking care not to leave any dry spots. Also, apply engine oil to the camshaft journal holders.

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE

Place each camshaft into the correct position:"EX" is for exhaust side"IN" is for intake side

A

B

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- With the "T" line (A) aligned with the index mark (B), hold the camshaft steady and lightly pull up the cam chain to remove any slack between the cam chain drive sprocket and exhaust camshaft sprocket.

- The exhaust camshaft sprocket has an arrow marked "1" (1).

Turn the exhaust camshaft so that the arrow (1) is aligned with the gasket surface of the cylinder head. Engage the cam chain with the exhaust camshaft sprocket.

- The other arrow marked "2" (2) should now be pointing straight up. Starting from the roller pin that is directly above the arrow marked "2" (2), count out 16 roller pins (from the exhaust camshaft side going towards the intake camshaft side).

Engage the 16th roller pin on the cam chain with the arrow marked "3" (3) on the intake sprocket.

Refer to the following illustrations.

1st pin 16th pin

NOTEThe cam chain should now be on all three sprockets.

CAUTIONBe careful not to move the crankshaft until the camshaft journal holders and cam chain tension adjuster are secured.

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- Install the eight dowel pins.- Place each camshaft journal holders and cam

chain guide into the correct position.

NOTECamshaft journal holders which are marked "EX" or "E" are for the exhaust side and one marked "IN" or "I" are for the intake side.

- Tighten the camshaft journal holder bolts to the specified torque.

Camshaft journal holder bolt: 10 Nm

NOTEBefore installing the cam chain tension adjuster, lock the tension spring with a flat-head screwdriver.Before installing the cam chain tension adjuster, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to remove any cam chain slack between the cam chain drive sprocket and exhaust camshaft sprocket.

- Install a new gasket and the cam chain tension adjuster onto the cylinder with the two bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.

Cam chain tension adjuster bolt: 10 Nm

- After installing the cam chain tension adjuster, turn the screwdriver counterclockwise. As the slot in the cam chain tension adjuster turns, the tension rod advances under the spring force and pushes the cam chain tension adjuster against the cam chain.

CAUTIONAfter installing the cam chain tension adjuster, check the cam chain slack to make sure that the cam chain tension adjuster is working properly.

1

1

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- Tighten the oil pipe bolts to the specified torque.

Engine oil pipe bolt: 20 Nm

- Pour abut 50 ml of engine oil into each oil pocket in the cylinder head.

NOTE.Turn the crankshaft and check that all the moving parts (e.g., cam follower, camshaft) work properly.

CAUTIONBe sure to check the tappet clearance.

- Apply SUZUKI BOND N0.1207B to the camshaft end caps of the gasket as shown.

SUZUKI BOND N0.1207B

- Place the cylinder head cover onto the cylinder head.

- Apply engine oil to both sides of the head cover bolt gaskets and then install them onto the head cover bolts.

CAUTIONReplace the gaskets with new ones to prevent oilleakage.

- Tighten the head cover bolts to the specified torque in two stages and in a crisscross pattern.

Cylinder head cover bolt: Initial 10 Nm Final 14 Nm

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GENERATOR COVER

- Install the dowel pin (1) and new gasket (2).

- Tighten the generator cover to the specified torque.

Generator cover bolt: 10 Nm

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CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS

ITEM SPECIFICATION

Carburetor type MIKUNI BS 26

Bore size 26 mm

I.D. No 47E3

Idle r/min 1450-1550 r/min.

Float height 17.1±0.5 mm

Fuel level (F.L.) 29±0,5 mm

Main jet (M.J.) # 107.5

Main air jet (M.A.J) Ø 0,7

Jet needle (J.N.) 5EP8-4

Needle jet (N.J.) P-0

Throttle valve (T.H.V.) #100

PiIot air jet (P.A.J.) 1.45

Pilot screw (P.S.) 2 turns back

Starter jet (G.S.) #27.5

Throttle cable play 3-6 mm

I.D. NO. LOCATIONThe carburetor has an I.D. number (A) stamped on its body according to its specifications.

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CARBURATOR CONSTRUCION

ITEM SPECIFICATION

1 Cover

2 Spring

3 Diaphragm

4 Jet Needle

5 Piston valve

6 Air jet

7 Starting plunger

8 Pilot jet

9 Needle jet

10 Main jet

11 Pilot screw

12 Float

13 Gasket

14 Float chamber

15 Idle adjuster

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1 Piston valve2 Diaphragm chamber3 Orifice4 SpringA Venturi

DIAPHRAGM AND PISTON OPERATIONThe carburetor is a variable-venturi type, whose venture cross sectional area is increased or decreased automatically by the piston valve (1) The piston valve moves according to the negative pressure present on the downstream side of the venturi (A). Negative pressure is admitted into the diaphragm chamber (2) through an orifice (3) provided in the piston valve (1).

LOWER POSITION OF THE PISTON VALVE UPPER POSITION OF THE PISTON VALVE

NEGATIVE PRESSURE

Rising negative pressure overcomes the spring (4) force, causing the piston valve (1) to rise into the diaphragm chamber and prevent the air velocity from increasing. Thus, air velocity in the venturi passage is kept relatively constant for improved fuel atomization and the precise air/ fuel mixture.

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MAIN SYSTEMAs the throttle valve (1) is opened, the engine speed rises, and negative pressure in the venturi increases. This causes the piston valve (2) to move upward.

The fuel in the float chamber is metered by the main jet (3). The metered fuel enters the needle jet (4), mixes with the air admitted through the main air jet (5) and forms an emulsion.

The emulsified fuel then passes through the clearance between the needle jet (4) and jet needle (6) and is discharged into the venturi, where it meets the main air stream being drawn by the engine.

Mixture proportioning is accomplished in needle jet (4). The clearance through which the emulsified fuel must flow ultimately depends on throttle position.

AIR

AIR/FUEL MIXTURE

FUEL

SLOW SYSTEMThis system supplies fuel during engine operation when the throttle valve is closed or slightly opened.

The fuel from the float chamber is metered by the pilot jet (1) where it mixes with air coming in through the pilot air jet (2).

This mixture, rich with fuel, then goes up through the pilot passage to the pilot screw (3).

Part of the mixture is discharged into the main bore through bypass ports. The mixture is metered by the pilot screw (3) and sprayed into the main bore through the pilot outlet port.

AIR

AIR/FUEL MIXTURE

FUEL

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AIR

AIR/FUEL MIXTURE

FUEL

FUEL

STARTER SYSTEMSliding the choke lever pulls the starting plunger (1) which causes fuel to be drawn into the starter circuit from the float chamber.

The starter jet (2) meters this fuel. The fuel then flows into the fuel pipe and mixes with the air coming from the float chamber. The mixture, rich in fuel, reaches the starter plunger and mixes again with the air coming through a passage extending from behind the diaphragm.

The two successive mixtures of the fuel with the air provide the proper air/ fuel mixture for starting. This occurs when the mixture is sprayed through the starter outlet port into the main bore.

FLOAT SYSTEMThe float (1) and needle valve (2) work in conjunction with one another. As the float moves up and down, so does the needle valve (2).

When there is a high fuel level in the float chamber, the float (1) rises and the needle valve (2) pushes up against the valve seat. When this occurs, no fuel enters the float chamber.

As the fuel level falls, the float (1) lowers and the needle valve unseats itself, admitting fuel into the float chamber. In this manner, the needle valve (2) admits and shuts off fuel to maintain the appropriate fuel level inside the float chamber.

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REMOVAL- Remove the fuel tank.- Remove the starter plunger (1) and throttle cable

(2).

- Remove the air cleaner box mounting screws (3).

- Loosen the clamp screws (5).- Remove the carburetor (6).

DISASSEMBLY- Remove the carburetor top cap (1).

- Remove the spring (2) and piston valve along with diaphragm (3).

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- Remove the spring seat (1) and jet needle (2).

- Remove the float chamber (3).

- Remove the gasket (4).- Remove the float assembly (5) be removing the

pin (6).

- Remove the needle valve (7) and the valve seat (8)

CAUTIONDot not use a wire to clean the valve seat.

- Remove the main jet (9) and pilot jet (10).

CAUTIONDot not use a wire to clean the passages and jets.

7

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- Remove the needle jet holder (1) and needle jet (2).

- Remove the pilot air jet (3) and main air jet (4).

- Remove the pilot screw (5).

NOTEBefore removing the pilot screw (5), its setting must be determined. Slowly turn the pilot air screw clock-wise and count the number of turns until it is lightly seated.When reassembling the pilot air screw, you will want to set it to its original position.

- Remove the throttle valve (6) by removing the screws.

CAUTIONThese two screws (7) are locked by notches at the end of the screws. After being unscrewed they are damaged. When reinstalling the throttle valve ap-ply THREAD LOCK 1342 to both these screws.

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NEEDLE VALVE INSPECTIONIf foreign matter is caught between the valve seat and the needle valve, the gasoline will continue flowing and overflow. If the valve seat and needle valve are worn beyond the permissible limits, similar trouble will occur. Conversely, if the needle valve sticks, the gaso-line will not flow into the float chamber. Clean the float chamber and float parts with gasoline. If the needle valve is worn, as shown in the illustration, replace, it along with a new valve seat. Clean the fuel passage of the mixing chamber with compressed air.

FLOAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTTo check the float height, turn the carburetor upside down. Measure the float height (A) while the float arm is just contacting the needle valve using vernier calipers. Bend the tongue (1) as necessary to bring the float height (A) to the specified value.

Float height (A): 17.1±0.5 mmTool: Vernier calipers

REASSEMBLYReassemble the carburetor in the reverse order of disassembly.Pay attention to the following points:- Turn the throttle stop screw until the throttle valve‘s

bottom end (A) is aligned with the foremost bypass port (B).

NOTEApply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342" to the throttle valve mounting screws and tighten them.

THREAD LOCK "1342"

CAUTIONFace the stamped side of the throttle valve out.

REMOUNTINGRemount the carburetor in the reverse order of removal.- Adjust the following items to the specification.- Engine idle speed- Throttle cable play

INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENTCheck the following items for any damage or clogging.- Pilot jet - Float- Main jet - Needle valve- Main air jet - Starter jet- Pilot air screw - Gasket and O-ring- Needle jet air bleeding hole - Pilot outlet and bypass holes

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Conrod smallend

Piston cylinderwall

Cam face tappet

Intake camshaftjournal

Piston jet Oil pipe

Cylinder head

Nozzle

Oil returnpath

Cam face tappet

Exhaust camshaftjournal

Conrod big end

Camshaft journalright Main gallery

Oil filter

Oil cooler

Oil pump

Oil pumpfilter

Countershaftleft sidebearing

Countershaftgears

Primarydriven gear

spacerClutchplate

Clutchrelase

bearing

Driveshaftleft sidebearing

Driveshaftgears

Countershaftright side jet

Oil pan

ENGINE LUBRICATON SYSTEM CHART

LUBRICATION SYSTEM

- OIL PRESSURE- OIL FILTER- OIL SUMP FILTER

When replacing the engine oil, make sure that the oil sump filter has no tears or damage. Also, be sure to wash the oil sump filter periodically.

CAUTIONReplace the generator cover gasket with a new one to prevent oil leakage.

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Electrical installation

Fuses

CAUTIONNever install a fuse with a larger rating, since this could destroy the entire electrical system.

The fuse (1) is located on the right cover.Remove the cover on top of the relay.

The fuse safeguards the:- electrical starting system- direction indicators- horn- neutral indicator lampRated fuse current: 20 A

NOTEThe spare fuse (2) is on the front side of the relay.

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Battery

WARNINGAlways wear safety glasses. Keep children away from acids and batteries.

EXPLOSION DANGERA battery being charged produces a highly explosive gas, which is why fire, sparks, naked flames and smoking are prohibited.

FIRE HAZARD Avoid generating sparks and electrostatic discharges when handling cables and electrical devices. Avoid short circuits.

DANGER - CAUSTIC ACTIONBattery acid is highly caustic, so always wear safety gloves and glasses. Do not tilt the battery as acid can leak from the ventilation openings.

FIRST AIDIf acid comes into contact with an eye, immediately flush the eye for several minutes with fresh water. Then immediately visit / call a doctor.Acid on the skin or clothing must immediately be neutralised using acid converter or soap suds, and the spots must be flushed with plenty of water.If acid is swallowed, immediately visit / call a doctor.

CAUTIONDo not expose batteries to direct sunlight. Discharged batteries can freeze, so they must be stored in a place where the temperature remains above 0 °C.Professional maintenance, charging and storage will increase the lifespan of the battery and are a condition for the honouring of guarantee claims.

DISPOSALTake a dead battery to a collection point. Never dispose of one with household refuse.

Charging the battery

After a long lay-up (3-4 months), charge the battery. The charging current (in amperes) must not exceed 1/10th of the battery capacity (Ah). The battery must not be fast-charged. The battery may only be charged using a special charger approved for MF batteries.

Maintenance

Although the battery is maintenance-free. Never leave the battery discharged. Keep the battery clean and dry and make sure that the connection terminals are firmly seated.

CAUTIONThe battery may only be connected or disconnected while the ignition is inactive. First disconnect the minus terminal (black cable). When installing the battery, first connect the plus terminal (red cable). The battery is maintenance-free. Do not try to open it.

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Commissioning maintenance-free batteries (MF)

The steps described below must be strictly observed in order to guarantee the long lifespan of the battery.

Work steps:

Pull the shut-off plug of the battery from the acid pack and remove the aluminium foil used to seal the battery (once the aluminium foil has been removed, the battery must be filled immediately!)

Insert the acid pack into the filler opening of the battery and allow the acid to run into the battery (keep the acid pack in this position for at least 20 minutes).

Remove the acid pack from the battery and allow the battery to degas for another 20 minutes.

insert in the filler openings

immediately

container withelectrolyte

container withelectrolyte

air bub-bles

V < 12.5V 12.5 OK_>

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Close the battery using only the fingers, so that all plugs are simultaneously pressed into the battery.

Now check the battery voltage using a volt meter; if the voltage is lower than 12.5 volt, the battery must be re-charged by means of an MF charger unit.

After charging, wait at least 30 minutes and again check the battery using the volt meter. If the voltage is still lower than 12.5 volt, the battery must be recharged.

- If the battery voltage the second charging cycle is still lower than 12.5 volt, the battery must be replaced.

- If the motorcycle remains unused for a longer period, the battery must be checked or recharged every month.

- To charge a maintenance-free battery you must use a suitable charger unit. The recharge may not exceed a max. charging current of 1/10th of the battery capacity.

WRONG RIGHT

MF-charger unit

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STARTER MOTOR REMOVAL ANDDISASSEMBLY

- Disconnect the starter motor lead wire (1).- Remove the starter motor.

- Disassemble the starter motor, as shown in the illustration.

STARTER MOTOR INSPECTIONCARBON BRUSHES

Inspect the brushes for abnormal wear, cracks or smoothness in the brush holder.

If either carbon brush is defective, replace the brush assembly.

1 Brush holder

2 Brush

3 O-ring

4 Starter motor case

5 Armature

6 O-ring

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COMMUTATORInspect the commutator for discoloration, abnormal wear or undercut (A).If the commutator is abnormally worn, replace the armature.If the commutator surface is discolored, polish it with #400 sandpaper and wipe it using a clean, dry cloth.If there is no undercut, scrape out the insulator (1) with a saw blade.

ARMATURE COIL INSPECTIONMeasure for continuity between each segment and the armature shaft.If there is no continuity between the segments or there is continuity between the segments and shaft, replace the armature with a new one.

Tool: Pocket testerTester knob indication: x 1 Ω range

OIL SEAL INSPECTIONCheck the seal lip for damage or leakage.If any damage is found, replace the housing end (in-side).

STARTER MOTOR REASSEMBLYReassemble the starter motor in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to the following points:

CAUTIONReplace the O-rings with new ones to prevent oil leakage and moisture.

- Apply SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" to the lip of the oil seal.


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- Apply a small quantity of SUZUKI MOLY PASTE to the armature shaft.

SUZUKI MOLY PASTE

- Install the brush holder as shown.

- Align the match marks on the starter motor case with the match marks on the housing end.

- Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK "1342" to the starter motor housing bolts.

THREAD LOCK "1342"

STARTER RELAY INSPECTION- Remove the frame covers. - Disconnect the starter motor lead wire on the

starter relay.

- Turn on the ignition switch, push the starter button and check for continuity between the (+) and (-) terminals.

If no continuity is found, the starter relay is defective and must be replaced with a new one.

Tool: Pocket testerTester knob indication: x 1Ω range- Disconnect the starter relay lead wire coupler.- Measure the starter relay resistance between the

terminals, as shown.


Starter relay resistance: 3-6 Ω

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IGNITION SYSTEMThis motorcycle is equipped with a new type of ignition system which minimizes timing fluctuations. A CPU is used and accurately controls ignition timing depending on the engine r/min.A DC-DC convertor in the CDI unit increases the battery voltage and charges the capacitor. An SCR, which is con-nected to the capacitor, becomes conductive (turn on) when a signal is sent to the SCR gate from the CPU.(The ignition timing is controlled by the CPU which processes the pick-up coil pulses to from the SCR gate signal. The signal is then sent to the SCR just when the crankshaft has reached the best ignition timing for the current revo-lutions).This allows the electric energy, which is stored in the capacitor, to discharge instantly and flow to the primary winding of the ignition coil.A high voltage current is induced in the secondary winding of the ignition coil resulting in a strong spark between the spark plug gap.

Engine stop switch Ignition switchFuse

DC-DCconvertor

Ignition powersorce circuit

Sensor inputcircuit CPU

Tachometeroutput circuit

Ignition coil

Battery

Pick-up coil

CDI unit

CPU: Central processing unit

Tachometer

Generator

Spark plug

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TROUBLE SHOOTING

No spark at the spark plug

Check the CDI unit coupler for a poor connection

Correct

Inspect the battery voltage between input lead wires (O/W and B/W) at the CDI unit with the ignition switch "ON" position.

Good

Measure the pick-up coil resistance (G/W and BI/Y).

Correct

- The ignition switch is in the ON position.

- The engine stop switch is in the RUN position.

- The fuse is not blown.

- Poor contact of coupler

- Faulty ignition switch - Faulty engine stop

switch - Broken wire harness

or poor contact of rela ted circuit connectors

- Faulty pick-up coil

- Faulty CDI unit - Faulty ignition coil

Check:

Looseness

No good

Incorrect

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INSPECTIONIGNITION COIL (checking with the electro tester)- Remove the fuel tank.- Remove the ignition coil (1).

NOTEMake sure that the three-needle sparking distance of the electro tester is set at 8 mm.

Test the ignition coil for proper sparking performance using the electro tester.

- Connect the test leads as shown in the illustra-tion.

- Check the sparking condition in the test gap for at least five minutes.

If no spark or an orange color spark occurs, the igni-tion coil may be defective.

Tool: Electro testerSpark performance: Over 8 mm

WARNINGDo not touch the wire clips to prevent an electric shock when testing.

CAUTIONWhen using the electro tester, follow the instruc-tion manual.

IGNITION COIL (checking with the pocket tester)A pocket tester or an ohm meter may be used, instead of the electro tester. In either case, the ignition coil is to be checked for continuity in both primary and sec-ondary windings. Exact ohm readings are not neces-sary, but, if the windings are in sound condition, their continuity should be close to the specified values.


Ignition coil resistancePrimary: 0.1-0.5 Ω (+ tap-Ground)Tester knob indication: x 1 Ω range

Secondary: 13-23 kΩ (Plug cap-ground)

Black

Yellow

Black tip (-)

Red tip (+)

Tap

Ground

Spark

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PICK-UP COIL- Remove the frame covers.- Disconnect the pick-up coil coupler (1).- Measure the pick-up coil resistance between the

lead wires. If the resistance is infinity or less than specification, the pick-up coil and stator coil must be replaced.

Tool: Pocket testerTester knob indication: x 100 Ω rangePick-up coil resistance: 180-340 Ω (G/W-BL/Y)BL/Y: Blue with Yellow tracerG/W: Green with White tracer

CDI UNIT- Remove the frame covers.- Remove the CDI unit (1).Measure the resistance between the terminals. If the resistance is infinity or less than the specifications, the CDI unit must be replaced.

NOTE.The readings may differ if a SUZUKI pocket tester is not used.Tool: Pocket testerTester knob indication: x 1 Ω range

Condenser: When the capacitor is in the discharging state, the needle of the tester swings first then returns to infinity (∞).

NOTE.If there is no spark evident, replace the CDI unit or inspect the stator coil, pick-up coil, ignition coil, spark plug and battery. If the stator coil, pick-up coil, ignition coil, spark plug and battery are OK, the CDI unit may be faulty, therefore, replace the CDI unit with a new one.

Generator

Unit:Probe of tester

Pro

be o

f tes

ter

1

2

SFM 675 182.3-1

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RPM METER

1. Disconnect the plug (2) from the rpm meter (1).

2. Measure the voltage between the black cable coming from the plug (2) and terminal 30, using a voltage meter.

Black cable - terminal 30 Target value: battery voltage

Actual value = target value = test step 3.Actual value ≠ target value = check the cables against the wiring diagram.

3. Measure the resistance between the black cable and the white cable coming from the plug (2), using an ohmmeter: White cable - black cable Target value at 20 °C: 0.2 - 0.8 Ω

Actual value = target value = replace the rpm meter.

Actual value ≠ target value = check the charger.

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Chassis - Wheels - Removing/installing the front wheel

CAUTIONBe careful during removal and installation not to damage the brake disks or linings!Do not operate the handbrake lever after a wheel has been removed!Protect the wheel bearings fr om dirt and moisture!

Removing the front wheel:1. Support the motorcycle so that the front wheel is free and the motorcycle stands safely.2. Hold the full floating axle (2), remove the axle nut (6) and the shaft-clamping screw (1).3. Push back the protective cover (5), loosen the spigot nut (4) and remove the speedometer shaft.4. Lift the front wheel, pull out the full floating axle (2) and remove the front wheel in a downwards direction.5. Remove the speedometer drive (3) and the spacer bush (7) near the brake disk.

Installing the front wheel:6. Clean and grease the running face of the speedometer drive (3).7. Roll the front wheel between the fork pipes, insert the speedometer drive (3) and the spacer bushing (7).

NOTEWhen inserting the front wheel, make sure that the nose of the speedometer drive (3) is in the guide (9) of the fork.8. Grease the full floating axle (2), insert it from the left until it contacts the stop, then fasten it with a washer (8)

and shaft nut (6).

9. Before tightening the nuts, put the motorcycle on its wheels and firmly compress the telescopic fork several times; this will prevent the fork pipes from becoming deformed.Tightening torque of the shaft nut (6): 60-65 NmTightening torque of the shaft-clamping screws (1): 10 Nm

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Removing/installing the rear wheel

CAUTIONBe careful during removal and installation not to damage the brake disks or linings! Do not operate the hand-brake lever after a wheel has been r emoved! Protect the wheel bearings from dirt and moisture!

Removing the rear wheel:1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is free and the motorcycle stands safely.2. Hold the full floating axle (5) and remove the axle nut (4).3. Loosen the lock-nuts (1) and twist in the left- and right-hand screws (2) and remove the chain from the chain

wheel.

NOTEWhen removing the rear wheel, be careful not to lose the bushings (7 and 9) to the left and right of the wheel hub or the spacer ring (8) near the brake support.

4. Lift the rear wheel, pull out the full floating axle (5) with the guides (3) and the washers (6) and remove the rear wheel in a downwards direction.

Installing the rear wheel:5. Insert the brake support (10) in the holder bolt (11) of the swing.6. Clean and grease the full floating axle (5).

NOTEWhen inserting the bushing (7), make sure that the large diameter makes contact with the swing.7. Insert the spacer ring (8) in the brake support (10) (small diameter in the bore of the brake support).8. Insert the rear wheel with the bushings (7 and 9) and insert the full floating axle (5) with washer (6) and guide

(3).9. Install the guide (3), washer (6) and shaft nut (4) on the full floating axle (5).10. Adjusting the chain.11. Tighten the axle nut (4).

Tightening torque of the axle nut (4): 60-65 Nm

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Removing/installing the front-wheel bearing

NOTEHeat the bearing seat to approx. 100 °C in order to facilitate removal/installation.

Removing the wheel bearing:1. Remove the front wheel.2. Use an internal extractor to pull the wheel bearing

(1) out of the bearing seat of the wheel hub (2).

Installing the wheel bearing:3. Press the wheel bearing (1) into the bearing seat

of the wheel hub (2).4. Install the front wheel.

Removing/installing the rear-wheel bearingNOTE

Heat the bearing seat to approx. 100 °C in order to facilitate its removal and installation.

Removing the wheel bearing:1. Remove the rear wheel.2. Remove the brake shoe support.3. Use an internal extractor to pull the wheel bearing

(1) out of the bearing seat of the wheel hub (2).

Installing the wheel bearing:4. Press the wheel bearing (1) into the bearing seat

of the wheel hub (2).5. Install the front wheel.

Statically aligning the wheels1. Clamp the relevant wheel in the aligning device.2. Rotate the wheel gently and wait until it comes to

a standstill. Make a mark (1) at the low point of the tyre.

NOTEAlways start with the smallest alignment weight.

3. Turn the wheel through 90°, stop it and let it find its own position. If the mark (1) again stops at the low point of the tyre, this is the heavy point and an alignment weight (2) must be installed opposi-te it.

4. Each time turn the wheel through 90° and stop it; the wheel must remain in position, otherwise repeat the alignment procedure.

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Telescopic fork

Removing/installing the telescopic fork

Removing the telescopic fork:1. Remove the front wheel.

2. Remove the top part of the full covering.

3. Remove the instruments and covering holder.

4. Remove the front wheel safeguard.

5. Only for the XTC: remove the half-handlebar

6. Pull off the protective cover (10), remove the closure nut (1) and the clamp screws (2) and remove the fork bridge (3) at the top.

NOTEWhen removing the telescopic fork (5), be careful not to lose the tapered roller bearing (8), the sealing ring (7) or the bearing-cover ring (6). In principle, the sealing rings (7) should be replaced.

7. Remove the adjusting nut (4) and pull the telescopic fork (5) downwards out of the fork column (9).

Installing the telescopic fork:8. Reassemble in reverse order.

9. Grease the fork column top bearing.

10. Adjust the fork column top bearing.

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Disassembling the telescopic fork

NOTEIn principle, the sealing ring (4) should be replaced.1. Remove the clamping screw (2) and remove the

fork pipe (3) from the fork bridge.

CAUTION

The closure screw (1) is under spring pressure.2. Remove the closure screw (1).3. Remove the fastening screw (5) of the absorber

pipe with the sealing ring (4) and drain the fork oil.

4. Pull off the dust cover and use a screwdriver to remove the securing ring.

5. Remove the spacer bushing, spring plate, pressure spring, absorber pipe and the stand pipe from the sliding pipe.

Measuring the telescopic fork

NOTEAfter an accident, the telescopic fork must be exami-ned for cracks and damage. Use protective supports in the vice.

1. Clamp the lower fork bridge (2) near the steering post in the vice.

2. Install two new stand pipes (1) of test length (A) in the lower fork bridge (2) and fasten them with the clamp screws (3).Test length (A): 189 mmTightening torque ofthe screw (3): 13-15 Nm

3. Put two measuring edges (1) over the upper and lower ends of the stander pipes and visually esta-blish any deformation of the fork bridge.

CAUTION

Deformed fork bridges must be replaced.

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4. Install the upper fork bridge.

NOTEThe upper fork bridge must be easy to slide onto the stand pipes.

5. Use a slider gauge to check that the stand pipes are parallel.

6. Check that the steering post is parallel to the stand pipes.

7. Install the old stand pipe with both ends in the prism, slowly rotate the stand pipe while che-cking the deformation with a measuring gauge.Allowable deformation of the stand pipes: 0.1 mm

CAUTION

Bent stand pipes may not be realigned.

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Repairing the telescopic fork

NOTEBefore installation, lightly oil the slide bushes (8a and 8f) and the thread of the closure screw (1). In principle, the O-ring (2) and the sealing ring (6c) must be replaced.Before installation, lightly cover the exterior of the radial packing ring (8d) with tyre-installation liquid.Fill the grease pocket in the dust collar (8b) with Molybdene grease.

Tightening torque for closure screw (1): 40 Nm Telescopic fork oil: SAE 10 W Tightening torque for screws (6d): 40 Nm Qty. for filling each form pipe: 280 cm3

1. Push apart the slide bush (8a), pull it off the stand pipe (7) and install a new side bush (8a).2. Remove the radial packing ring (8d), the intermediate ring (8e) and the slide bush (8f) from of the sliding pipe.3. Push the absorber pipe (6a) into the stand pipe (7), install the guide piece (6b) on the absorber pipe (6a) and push

the stand pipe (7) with slide bush (8a) into the sliding pipe.4. Insert the pressure spring (5), spring plate (4) and spacer bush (3) into the stand pipe (7) and lightly twist in the fas-

tening screw (6d) with a new sealing ring (6c).5. Push the slide bush (8f) over the stand pipe (7), lightly push it into the sliding pipe (9) and carefully push it in using

the impact mandrel (A).6. Insert the intermediate ring (8e), carefully push in the radial packing ring (8d) with the impact mandrel (A) and install

the securing ring (8c) via the radial packing ring (8d) into the nut.7. Carefully tighten the dust collar (8b) with the impact mandrel (A) and tighten the fastening screw (6d) for absorber

pipe.8. Put in the prescribed quantity of fork oil, insert the closure screw (1) with a new O-ring (2) and tighten it.

1 Closure screw2 O-ring3 Spacer bush4 Spring plate5 Pressure spring6 Absorber pipe set6a Absorber pipe

6b Guide piece6c Sealing ring6d Fastening screw for

absorber pipe7 Stand pipe8 Sealing set for sliding pipe8a Sliding bush for stand pipe

8b Dust collar8c Securing ring8d Radial packing ring8e Intermediate ring8f Slide bush for sliding pipe9 Sliding pipeA Impact mandrel

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9. Clamp the lower fork bridge (2) by the steering post in the vice.

10. Install the two stand pipes (1) with test length (A) into the lower fork bridge and tighten the clamp screw (3).

Test length (A): 189 mmTightening torque of the screws (3): 13-15 Nm

11. Install the telescopic fork.

Removing/installing the fork column bearing

CAUTION

The tapered roller bearing and the bearing outer ring must always be replaced together.

1. Remove the telescopic fork.

Fork column bearing, top:2. Remove the bearing cover ring (1), sealing ring

(2) and tapered roller bearing (3) from the fork column (4).

3. Use an internal extractor (3) to pull the bearing outer ring (1) out of the fork column (2).

4. Push the new bearing outer ring down to the bot-tom of the seat of the fork column (2) (e.g. using the fork column mandrel (1) of a frame gauge).

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Fork column bearing, bottom:5. The removal/installation of the lower bearing outer

ring is realised in accordance with the removal/installation of the upper bearing outer ring.

6. Destroy the bearing cage and remove it together with the tapered rollers.

7. Use a universal extractor (1) to pull the bearing ring off the steering post (2).

8. Heat the new bearing ring to approx. 80 °C and install it; if necessary, use a pipe to evenly drive the bearing ring down to the stop.

CAUTIONAllow the bearing ring to cool of f before adjusting the play of the fork column bearing.

NOTEGrease the fork column bearing with wheel-bearing grease.9. Install the telescopic fork..

Removing/installing the telescopic leg

Removing the telescopic leg:1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is

free and the motorcycle is standing securely.2. Remove the screw (1) with washers (2 and 3) and

nut (4) and carefully lower the swing (10) with the rear wheel.

3. Remove the screws (5) with washers (6 and 7) and the nut (8) and remove the telescopic leg (9) from the frames (11).

Installing the telescopic leg:4. Reassemble in reverse order.

Tightening torque of the screws (1 and 5): 42 Nm

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Removing the rear-wheel swing, replacing and installing the swing bearing

Removing the rear-wheel swing:1. Support the motorcycle so that the rear wheel is free and the motorcycle stands securely.2. Remove the rear wheel and the chain.3. Disconnect the brake hose from the holders of the rear-wheel swing, take the calliper through the swing triangle

and connect it to the frame (if necessary, secure it with wire).4. Support the rear-wheel swing (1) in order to prevent the exhaust system from becoming damaged.5. Disconnect the screw (11) with washers (12) and nut (13) then disconnect the telescopic leg (10).

NOTEWhen pulling out the swing axle (2) or removing the rear-wheel swing (1), be careful not to lose the friction washers (4 and 8) or the bushes (5).

6. Pull off the cover plug (9), remove nuts (3) and washers (4), pull out the swing axle (2) and remove the rear-wheel swing (1) in a rearwards direction.

Replacing the swing bearing:7. Pull out the bushings (5) and the radial packing rings (7) from the rear-wheel swing.8. Use an impact mandrel to drive the needle bushings (6) out of the rear-wheel swing (1).9. Thoroughly clean the rear wheel swing (1), the bushes (5) and the swing axle (2).10. Lightly grease the exterior of the new needle bushes (6) and the interior of the bearing seat of the rear-wheel

swing (1).11. Push in the new needle bushes (6) so far that the radial packing rings (7) can be installed on both sides.12. Grease the bearing and install new radial packing rings (7) and bushes (5).

Installing the rear-wheel swing:13. Reassemble in reverse order.

Tightening torque for nut (3): 42 NmTightening torque for screw (11): 42 Nm

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Replacing the chain set

CAUTIONThe chain, chain wheel and pinion wheel may only be r eplaced together.

NOTEWhen opening the stud link (1), be careful not to lose the O-ring (4) or the spring clip (2). The pull-off screw (6) can be loosened with a chisel.The installation of a pull-of f screw (6) is required by law .1. Separate the stud link (1) from the chain (3) and remove the chain (3).2. Remove the rear wheel.3. Remove the screws (13), securing ring (11) with washer (12) and remove the chain wheel (14) from the rear

wheel (18).4. Check the adapter (15) and absorbing rubber (17) for damage, insert new lock-nuts (16) and use the screws

(13) to fasten the new chain wheel (14) to the adapter (15). Tightening torque of the screws (13): 25-28 Nm

5. Insert the pre-assembled chain wheel (14) with the absorbing rubber (17) into the rear wheel and fasten it with the washer (12) and the securing ring (11).

6. Remove the screws (5 and 6) and remove the cover (7).7. Bend open the locking plate (8), hold the pinion wheel (10) using the holder spanner (special tool) and remove

the nut (9).8. Install the new pinion wheel (10) with the locking plate (8), hold the pinion wheel (10) using the holder spanner

(special tool), fasten it using the nut (9) and secure it with the locking plate (8).Tightening torque of the nut (9): 90 Nm

CAUTIONThe closed end of the spring clip (2) of the stud link (1) must always point in the r unning direction (arrow) of the chain (3).9. Install the chain (3) on the pinion wheel (10), thread it through the swing and connect it using the stud link (1).10.Reassemble in reverse order.

Tightening torque of the screw (5): 8-10 Nm

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Brakes

Removing, installing and repairing the front cal-liper

CAUTIONThe brake fluid can cause damage to the painted and plastic parts!Use only new brake fluid of specification DOT 4.

Removing the calliper:1. Remove the banjo bolt (6) with the sealing rings

(5), remove the brake line (4) and close it off.2. Remove the screws (2) with spring washers (3)

and remove the calliper (1) from the brake disk.

Installing the calliper:3. Remove the circlip (8) and the holder bolt (7) from

the calliper (1).4. Remove the brake lining (9).5. Remove the screws (11), push apart the calliper (1)

and remove the brake piston with the old sealing set.

6. Check the calliper (1) and the brake piston for damage, wear or corrosion; if necessary, replace the calliper.

7. Install the new sealing set (10) with the brake pis-ton.

8. Assemble the calliper (1), insert the screws (11) with Loctite 270 and tighten them.Tightening torque of the screws (11): 25-28 Nm

9. Insert the brake lining (9) and fasten it with circlip (8) and holder bolts (7).

Installing the calliper:10. Reassemble in reverse order.

Tightening torque of the screws (2): 35-38 Nm

WARNING - RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENTOperate the brakes several times, until the brake linings make contact.11. Adjust the brake-fluid level, vent the brake system

and check the handbrake lever play.12. Carry out a function check.

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Replacing the front brake disk1. Remove the front wheel.2. Remove the screws (4) with spring rings (3) and

remove the brake disk (2) from the front wheel (1).

3. Install a new brake disk (2) on the front wheel (1), insert the screws (4) with Loctite 270 and insert and fasten the new spring rings (3).Tightening torque of the screws (4):10-11 Nmwith Loctite 270.


Removing, installing and repairing the rear calli-per

CAUTIONBrake fluid can cause damage to painted and plastic parts.Use only brake fluid of specification DOT 4.

Removing the calliper:1. Remove the banjo bolt (2) with sealing rings (3),

remove the brake line (1) and close it off.2. Remove the rear wheel and remove the calliper

(6).

Repairing the calliper:3. Bend open the locking plate (5), remove the

screws (4) and remove the holder plate (9).4. Remove the brake linings (7).5. Remove the brake piston with the old sealing set.6. Check the calliper (6) and brake piston for dama-

ge, wear or corrosion; if necessary, replace the calliper.

7. Insert a new sealing set (8) with the brake piston.8. Insert new brake linings (7) and the holder plate

(9) and fasten it with the locking plate (5) and screws (4).Tightening torque of the screws (4): 25-28 Nm

9. Bend the locking plate (5) in order to secure the screws (4).

Installing the calliper:10. Reassemble in reverse order.

WARNING

- RISK OF ON-ROAD ACCIDENT!Operate the brake several times, until the brake linings make contact.11. Adjust the brake-fluid level, vent the brake sys-

tem and check the handbrake lever play.12. Carry out a function check.

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Replacing the rear brake disk1. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Remove the screws (2) and remove the brake disc (1) from the rear wheel (3).

3. Install the new brake disk (1) on the rear wheel (3), in-sert the screws (2) with Loctite 270 and tighten them.

Tightening torque of the screws (2): 10-11 Nmwith Loctite.


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Lights

Removing/installing the headlamps

NOTEDo not touch the filament bulbs with the bare fingers. For installation and removal purposes, use a clean, dry cloth. Before installation, check the rubber bearings (1) for damage and replace them if necessary.

1. Remove the upper covering.2. Disconnect the rubber covers (2) and pull them off, disconnect the connector plugs (3, 4, 5).3. Remove the screws (6, 7) with the washers (8), the bush (9).4. Remove the headlamp (10).5. Pull out the parking-light holder (11) with its filament bulb (12).6. Unlock the holder clamp (13) and remove the riding-light lamps (14).

INSTALLATION NOTEThe condensation outlets (15) on the rubber covers (2) must point downwards.


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Removing/installing the rear lights

NOTEDo not touch the filament bulbs with the bare fingers. For installation and removal purposes, use a clean, dry cloth. Make sure that the cable is correctly installed without abraded contacts or bends/kinks. When installing the filament bulbs (4), observe the different heights of the projections on the lamp base.

1. Remove the seat.2. Remove the screw (6) and remove the rear-light cover (5).3. Remove the filament bulbs (4).4. Remove the nuts (1) with the washers (2), disconnect the connection cable and remove the rear lights (3) from the seat.

5. Remove the nuts (7) with the washers (8) and remove the rear reflector (9).

6. Remove the nuts (10) with the washers (11).7. Pull out the light holder (12) with its bulb (13) and remove the number plate light (14).


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Direction indicators

Removing/installing the direction indicators:

NOTEThe figure is a front view of the direction indicator. Proceed accordingly for the rear direction indicators until you have jacked the cable off.

1. Clip out the direction-indicator glass (1) from the direction-indicator housing (3) and remove it.

2. Only for the front direction indicators: remove the filament bulbs (2), disconnect the plug from the connection cable (8) behind the covering.

3. Only for the rear direction indicators: remove the filament bulbs (2), disconnect the connection cable (8) in the direction indicator housing (3).

4. Remove the screw (4) with the washers (5 and 6) and the nut (7) and remove the direction-indicator housing (3).


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Engine

Complaint Symptom and possible causes Remedy

Engine will not startor is hard to start.

Compression too low

Worn cylinder Rebore or replace

Worn piston ring Replace.

Worn valve guide or improper valve seating Repair or replace

Loose spark plug Tighten.

Broken, cracked or damaged piston Replace

Slow cranking starter motor See electrical section

Mistimed valves Adjust

Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust

Spark plug not sparking

Damaged spark plug Replace

Damaged spark plug cap Replace

Fouled spark plug Clean or replace

Wet spark plug Clean and dry or replace

Defective ignition coil Replace

Open or short in high-tension cord Replace

Defective pick-up coil or CDI unit Replace

No fuel reaching a carburetor

Clogged or defective fuel valve Clean or replace

Defective carburetor needle valve Replace with cauburetorneedle valve seat

Clogged fuel hose Clean or replace

Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace

Engine stalls easily Fouled spark plug Clean or replace


Clogged fuel hose Clean

Clogged carburetor jet Clean

Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust

Engine is noisy Excessive valve chatter

Excessive tappet clearance Adjust

Weak or broken valve spring Replace

Worn cam surface Replace

Worn or burnt camshaft journal Replace camshaft

Troubleshooting

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Engine


Engine is noisy

Noise seems to come from the piston

Worn piston Replace


Carbon build-up in combustion chamber Clean

Worn piston pin or piston pin bore Replace

Worn piston ring or ring groove Replace

Noise seems to come from the cam chain

Stretched cam chain Replace cam chain and sprockets

Worn cam chain sprocket Replace cam chain and sprockets

Improperly working cam chain tension adjuster Repair or replace

Noise seems to come from the clutch

Worn countershaft spline Replace countershaft

Worn clutch hub spline Replace clutch hub

Worn clutch plate teeth Replace clutch plate

Distorted clutch plate Replace

Worn clutch release bearing Replace

Weak clutch damper Replace primary driven gear

Weak clutch spring Replace

Noise seems to come from the crankshaft

Rattling bearing Replace

Worn or burnt crank pin bearing Replace

Worn or burnt ball bearing Replace

Noise seems to come from the transmission

Worn or rubbing gear Replace

Worn countershaft spline Replace countershaft

Worn driveshaft spline Replace driveshaft

Worn or rubbing primary gear Replace

Worn bearing Replace

Clutch slips Clutch cable out of adjustment Adjust

Weak or broken clutch spring Replace

Worn or distorted clutch pressure plate Replace


Clutch drags Clutch out of adjustment Adjust

Some clutch springs are weak, while others are not Replace

Worn or distorted clutch pressure plate Replace


Transmission will not shift

Broken gearshift cam Replace

Distorted gearshift fork Replace

Worn gearshift fork pawl Replace gearshift fork

Transmission willnot shift back

Broken gearshift shaft return spring Replace

Rubbing or stuck gearshift shaft Repair or replace

Worn or distorted gearshift fork Replace

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Engine


Transmission jumpsout of gear

Worn gear Replace

Worn or distorted gearshift fork Replace

Weakened gearshift stopper spring Replace

Worn gearshift fork pawl Replace gearshift fork

Engine idles poorly Tappet clearance out of adjustment Adjust

Improper valve seating Repair or replace

Worn valve guide Replace

Worn cam surface Replace

Excessive spark plug gap Adjust or replace



Spark plug too cold Replace by hot type plug

Incorrect float Chamber fuel level Adjust float height


Defective generator Replace

Engine runs poorly inhigh-speed range

Weak valve spring Replace

Worn camshaft Replace

Insufficient spark plug gap Regap or replace

Ignition not advanced sufficiently due to poorlyworking timing advance circuit

Replace CDI unit



Low float chamber fuel level Adjust float height

Dirty air cleaner element Clean or replace

Clogged fuel hose, resulting in inadequate fuel Clean and prime

supply to carburetor

Exhaust smoke isdirty or thick

Excessive amount of engine oil Check level and drain


Worn piston ring Replace

Worn valve guide Replace

Scored or scuffed cylinder wall Rebore or replace

Worn valve stem Replace valve

Defective valve stem oil seal Replace

Worn oil ring side rail Replace oil ring

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Engine


Engine lacks power

Insufficient tappet clearance Adjust

Weak valve spring Replace

Mistimed valves Adjust



Improper valve seating Repair or replace

Fouled spark plug Clean or replace

Incorrect spark plug Replace


Incorrect float chamber fuel level Adjust float height

Dirty air cleaner element Clean or replace

Worn camshaft Replace

Air leakage from intake pipe Tighten or replace

Excessive amount of engine oil Check level and drain

Engine overheats

Carbon build-up on piston crown Clean

Insufficient amount of engine oil Check level an add

Defective oil pump Replace

Clogged oil circuit Clean

Float chamber fuel level too low Adjust float height

Air leakage from intake pipe Tighten or replace

Incorrect engine oil Change

Carburetor

Starting difficulty Clogged starter jet Clean

Clogged starter jet passage Clean

Air leaking from joint between starter body and carburetor Tighten, adjust or replace gasket

Air leaking from carburetor joint or vacuum hose joint Tighten or replace defective part

Improperly working starter plunger Adjust

Idling or low-speedtrouble

Clogged or loose pilot jet Clean or tighten

Clogged or loose pilot air jet Clean or tighten

Air leaking from carburetor joint or vacuum pipe joint, or starter Tighten or replace defective part

Clogged pilot outlet port Clean

Clogged bypass port Clean

Starter plunger not fully closed Adjust

Medium-or highspeed trouble

Clogged main jet Clean

Clogged main air jet Clean

Clogged needle jet Clean

Improperly working throttle valve Adjust

Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace

Overflow and fuellevel fluctuations

Worn or damaged needle valve Replace

Broken needle valve spring Replace

Improperly working float Adjust or replace

Foreign matter an the needle valve Clean or replace with needle valve seat

Incorrect float chamber fuel level Adjust float height

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Elektric


No sparking or poorsparking


Defective spark plug Replace

Defective pick-up coil Replace

Defective CDI unit Replace

Spark plug is wet orquickly becomesfouled with carbon

Excessively rich air/fuel mixture adjust carburetor

Excessively high idling speed Adjust carburetor

Incorrect gasoline Change

Dirty air cleaner element clean or replace

Incorrect spark plug (cold type) Change to hot type spark plug

Spark plug quicklybecomes fouled withoil or carbon


Worn piston Replace


Excessive valve-stem-to-valve-guide clearance

Replace

Worn valve stem oil seal Replace

Spark plug electrodesoverheat or burn

Incorrect spark plug (hot type) Change to cold type spark plug

Overheated engine Tune-up

Loose spark plug Tighten

Excessively lean air/fuel mixture Adjust carburertor

Generator does notcharge

Open or short in lead wires, or loose leadconnections

Repair, replace or connect properly

Shorted, grounded or open stator coil Replace

Shorted or punctured regulator/rectifier Replace

Generator chargesbut charging rate isbelow thespecifications

Lead wires tend to get shorted or open-circuited or loosely connected at terminal

Repair or tighten

Grounded or open-circuited stator coils orgenerator

Replace

Defective regulator/rectifier Replace

Defective battery cell plates Replace battery

Generator overcharges Internal short-circuit in the battery Replace battery

Damaged or defective regulatror/rectifier Replace

Poorly grounded regulator/rectifier Clean and tighten ground connection

Unstable charging Lead wire insulation frayed due to vibrationresulting in intermittent shorting

Repair or replace

Internally shorted generator Replace

defective regulator/rectifier Replace

Starter button doesnot work

Run down battery Recharge or replace

Defective switch contact Replace

Brushes do not seat properly on the commutator in the starter motor.

Repair or replace

Defective starter relay Replace

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Battery


Sulfation or spots onsurfaces of cellplates

Cracked battery case Replace the battery

Battery has been left in an run-down condition for a long time

Replace

Battery runs downquickly

Incorrect charging method Check generator, IC regulator,or rectifier circuit, connections, and make necessary adjustment to obtain specified charging operation

Battery cell plates have lost much of their activematerial as a result of overcharging

Replace battery and correct charing system

Internally shorted battery Replace

Excessively low battery voltage Recharge

Battery is too old Replace

Battery sulfation Incorrect charging rate(When not in use, the battery should be checked atleast once a month and properly charged if necessary, to avoid sulfation.)

Replace battery

The battery was left unused in a cold climate fortoo long

Replace the battery if badly sultated

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WIRING DIAGRAM

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manual motorbike sachs xtc

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