lure/reward training i - mydoghasclass.com · jul/aug 2006 the apdt chronicle of the dog 5 training...

Jul/Aug 2006, Vol. XIV, No. 4

September MornMember Profile, p. 10

Canine Profiling and The Important Role of Dog Trainers................................ 28Eight Criteria for the Effective Use of Punishment in Pet Dog Training...... 13Ethics for Dog Trainers....................... 21Lure/Reward Training........................... 1Member Profile................................... 10On Behavior....................................... 15Pick of the Letter................................ 23President’s Message............................ 3Reviewers' Corner.............................. 32Shake It Up, Baby: The Dynamics of Reinforcement................................. 17

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Building Better Trainers Through Education

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I N S I D E

1 The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Nov/Dec 2003

Lure/Reward Trainingby Ian Dunbar, PhD, BVetMed, MRCVS, CPDT

In pet dog training, there is an end-less quest for the quickest, easiest, most enjoyable, and most expedient

route to produce equipment-free and gizmo-free response reliability. Recently, some trainers have criticized luring, stating that, dogs are trained “better” if they have not been lured. This, of course, is learning theory heresy. Behavior is consequence-driven, not antecedent-driven. By tautological definition, once a dog has been trained to criterion, he’s been trained to criterion. A dog is not trained better depending on whether he was lured or not. If he’s trained, he’s trained, and if not, he’s not. However, the choice of training technique will have a huge influence on “time and trials to criterion.” As the quickest, and one of the simplest of all training techniques, lure/reward training is the technique of choice for most owners to teach their dog basic manners. For behavior modification and temperament training, food lure/reward training should be mandatory. There is extreme urgency to prevent and resolve behavior problems. Simple behavior problems, such as housesoiling, destructive chewing, and excessive barking, kill dogs. Time is of the essence. Similarly, biting, fighting, and fearful dogs are hardly happy or safe to be around and so there is simply no time to mess around with time-consuming techniques. We must resolve the dogs’ problems,

relieve their chronic, yet acute, stress levels, and improve their quality of life using the most time-efficient methods available. Other techniques are championed in other specialist training fields, wherein the syllabus is finite and the trainer knows the rules and questions (criteria) before the examination and especially, when time is not an issue—knowledgeable, experienced, and dedicated handlers will train for hours to perfect a desired behavior. However, pet dog training differs markedly from teaching competition or working dogs,

from training marine mammals, and from computers autoshaping rats and pigeons in laboratories. With pet dog training, the questions are unknown

and the syllabus is infinite—comprising all aspects of a dog’s (and owner’s) behavior, temperament, and training. But the most important difference—owners are not dog trainers; they seldom have a trainer’s education, interest, dedication, experience, or expertise. Trainers should never underestimate their own expertise. Characteristically, techniques that we recommend for owners to train their dogs are entirely different (easier, quicker, and less complicated) than techniques that we might use to train our dogs. In pet dog training, the two most expedient techniques are lure/reward

"There is extreme urgency to prevent

and resolve behavior problems."

5The APDT Chronicle of the DogJul/Aug 2006

training and all-or-none reward training. This article will describe a comprehensive lure/reward training program, which comprises five stages:I. Teaching The Dog What We Want Him To Do II. Teaching The Dog To Want To Do What We Want Him To Do III. Enforcing Compliance Without Fear or Force IV. Refining Performance Precision and Pizzazz V. Protecting Performance Reliability and Precision. The first three steps focus on establishing response reliability and are all-important in all fields of dog training. The last two steps—for refining precision and for protecting precision and reliability—are primarily for obedience, working, and demo dogs and will only be summarized in this article. .I. Teaching The Dog What We Want Him To Do Stage I involves completely phasing out food lures as they are first replaced by hand signals (hand lures) and then eventually, by requests (verbal lures). Given the prospect of the plethora of rewarding conse-quences for appropriate behavior, most dogs would gladly respect our wishes and follow our instructions, if only they could understand what we were asking. In a sense, Stage I involves teaching dogs ESL—English as a Second Language—teaching dogs the meaning of the human words that we use for instructions. Dogs need to be taught words for their body

actions (sit, down, stand, etc.), and activities (go play, fetch, tug, etc.), and for items (Kong®, Squirrel Dude®, car keys, etc.), places (bed, car, inside, outside, etc.), and people (e.g., Mum, Dad, Jamie, etc.). The basic training sequence is always the same: 1. Request 2. Lure 3. Response 4. Reward This simple sequence is all that there is to the “science” of lure/reward training. After just half a dozen repetitions, the food lure is no longer necessary because the dog will respond to the hand-lure movement (hand signal). After twenty or so repetitions (with a half-a-second interval between the request and the hand signal), the dog will begin to anticipate the signal on hearing the request, i.e., the dog will respond immediately after the request but before the hand signal. The hand signal is no longer necessary, since the dog has now learned the meaning of the verbal request. The “art” of lure/reward training very much depends on the trainer’s choice and effective use of an effective lure. The lure can be any item or action that reliably causes the dog to respond appropriately. Obviously, the trainer and the trainer’s body movements are the very best lures (and rewards), with interactive toys coming a close second. However, for pet owners, food is generally the best choice for both lures and rewards. Again, pet owners are not yet dog trainers, but they need to train their dog right

away using the easiest and quickest technique. Food lures should not be used for more than a half dozen trials. The prolonged use of the same item as both lures and rewards comes pretty close to bribing—wherein the dog’s response will become contingent on whether or not the owner has food in her hand. Either completely go cold turkey on food lures after just six trials, or use different items as lures and rewards. For example, use food to lure the dog to sit but a tennis ball retrieve as a reward. Or, use a hand signal to lure the sit but an invitation to the couch as a reward. Regardless of what you choose as lures and rewards, always commence each sequence with the verbal request. For pet owners, dry kibble is the standard choice for both lures and rewards. Weigh out the daily ration each morning and keep it in a screw-top jar to be handfed as lures and rewards in the course of the day. Freeze-dried liver is reserved for special uses: rewards for housetraining, lures for Kongs®, lures for shush, occasional lures and rewards for men and children to use, and for classical conditioning (to children, men, other dogs, motorcycles, and other scary stuff). II. Teaching The Dog To Want To Do What We Want Him To Do Stage II involves phasing out training rewards as they are first replaced by life rewards and then eventually, by auto-reinforcement.

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6 The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Jul/Aug 2006

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Just because a dog “knows” what we want him to do does not mean to say that he will necessarily do it. Puppy responses are pretty predictable and reliable but with the advent of adolescence, most dogs become more independent and quickly develop competing interests, many of which become distractions to training. Given the choice between coming when called and sniffing another dog’s rear end, most adolescent dogs would choose the latter. To maintain response reliability, all of the dog’s hobbies and competing interests must be used as rewards. Training must be completely integrated into the dog’s lifestyle. Training should comprise: short preludes before every enjoyable doggy activity (a la Premack) and numerous short interludes within every enjoyable long-term doggy activity. For example, the dog should be requested to sit before the owner puts on the leash, opens the back door, opens the car door, takes off the leash, throws a tennis ball, takes back the tennis ball, allows the dog to greet another dog or person, or offers a couch invitation or tummy rub. And of course, the dog should sit before the owner serves supper. Additionally, walks should be interrupted every 25 yards and play with other dogs should be interrupted every 15 seconds for a brief training interlude, (e.g., random position changes with variable length stays). Each interruption allows the resumption of walk or play to be used again as a life reward. As a cautionary note, if walks and play are not frequently

interrupted, the puppy/adolescent will quickly learn to pull on leash and no doubt will become an uncontrollable social loon or bully. Food rewards are no longer necessary for reliable performance, but it is smart to occasionally offer kibble rewards prior to life rewards during training preludes and interludes, so that the presentation (and eating) of kibble (an average-value primary reinforcer) becomes a mega secondary reinforcer. Supercharged kibble is useful when teaching subsequent exercises. The ultimate goal in dog training is for the response to become the reward so that the dog becomes internally motivated and the

response is auto-reinforced. This is similar to what happens when people are effectively taught to play tennis, dance, or ski; external rewards are no longer necessary. III. Enforcing Compliance Without Fear or Force Stage III involves teaching the dog that he must always respond promptly and appropriately by enforcing compliance without fear or force. Just because a dog really, really, really wants to do what we want him to do does not mean to say that he will always do it. Internally motivated dogs usually have response reliabilities around 90%. I have always thought that dogs are pure existentialists—they

revel in the here and now—and that squirrel, that dog’s rear end, or that little boy on a skateboard is right here, right now. In a flash, reliability goes down the toilet. There are times when a dog simply must follow instructions to the letter. A pet dog requires an ultra-reliable emergency sit or down, a rock-solid stay, and a healthy respect for doorway or curbside boundaries. Once we have used just about every conceivable life reward under the sun to internally motivate a dog to want to comply, we must also teach the dog that there are instances when he must comply. In all the fields of dog training, enforcing compliance is perhaps the most misunderstood aspect. When discussing punishment, training tends to change from a science to a religion and some trainers express emotional extremes. Some trainers hold the view that compliance must be enforced by physical (often painful) punishments, such as leash corrections or electric shock. Other trainers abhor the use of positive punishment and negative reinforcement. And yet other trainers even eschew the use of negative punishment and no reward marks, deeming them to be too stressful. . Regardless of where any trainer lies on the continuum of relative use of rewards and punishments: 1. Minor stressors are essential during early development for an animal to develop confidence as an adult, and certainly to develop sufficient confidence to live with

"Training must be completely integrated

into the dog's lifestyle."


the instructive reprimand, the instructive reprimand is repeated in a negative reinforcement format until the dog complies, whereupon the dog has to immediately repeat the exercise and meet criteria, before “life as the dog knows it” continues once more. Recently, I have been working with a Level IV biter (deep punctures of more than 1/2 the length of the canine tooth, with lacerations and/or slashes in both directions from the puncture). I elected to take the case because the owners are responsible and compliant and will crate the dog when visitors come to the house, but they desperately want to normalize the relationship with their dog. By my fourth visit, the wife had learned how to keep the dog in a long-term settle-down on his mat (for five and a half hours), while she cooked dinner and went about other household duties (and her husband observed in awe). In the course of the five and a half hours, the dog briefly left his mat a total of 22 times. Each time, the wife instructed “Rover, go to your

humans. Learning, training, and development are often stressful. Adolescence is extremely stressful. It’s a simple fact of life. 2. It is essential to consider, “What to do when Plan A fails?”What to do when the dog dashes out of the front door and into the street to chase the boy on the skateboard? What is the Plan B and Plan C? 3. For the dog’s safety, compliance must be enforced to raise response-reliability to 95% (within two seconds after a single command) and to 100% (following Plan B or C). Compliance may be effectively enforced without fear or force. Technically, a punishment decreases the immediately preceding behavior. A punishment need not be physical, painful, scary, aversive, or unpleasant. A punishment needs to adhere to eight criteria. (See article on page 13.) Most important, punishments need to be effective (another tautology), instructive, and immediate, yet not overbearing. Personally, I dislike using any gizmo or permanent management

tool. Instead, I like to rely on the things that are always readily available: voice (for requests/commands, praise, and instructive reprimands), food and toys (as lures and rewards), and hands (for rewards and control). In those instances when the dog does not respond following a single command, the dog will eventually respond (100% of the time) after any number of instructive reprimands delivered in a negative reinforcement format. Once a dog has been trained (exclusively via positive reinforcement) to 90% response reliability, whenever it fails to respond within two seconds, I instructively reprimand the dog. The volume of the instructive reprimand is lower than normal and the tone is soft and sweet, yet insistent. Once the dog sits, for example, I say “thank you” and then the dog has to immediately repeat the exercise to meet the original criteria. Once the dog sits within two seconds of a single request, I praise the dog, offer a couple of treats, and say “go play.” If the dog does not sit following

Lure Reward Trainingcontinued from page 6

When communicating with dog owners, I use the term “punishment-training” simply to mean, using punishments when training—most usually short-duration punishments but occasionally, long-duration

punishment (positive punishment and negative reinforcement), adhering to the eight criteria (see page 13), and preferably, predominately using well timed, soft and sweet instructive reprimands. Similarly, I use the term “reward-training” simply to mean, using rewards when training—most usually short-duration rewards but occasionally, long-duration rewards (positive reinforcement and negative punishment), adhering to similar criteria for the use of rewards, and almost entirely using soft and sweet praise and mega life-rewards. The use of punishment-training and reward-training are not mutually exclusive. On the contrary, the vast majority of pet dog trainers occasionally use punishment-training after first teaching the dog via reward-training. Obviously, the time is long overdue for pet dog trainers to completely and utterly revise the ridiculously ambiguous and emotionally inflammatory terminology of learning theory.

Using Instructive Reprimands



mat, go to your mat, go to your mat.” Her voice was always soft, sweet, and insistent. As soon as the dog returned to his mat and lay down, she praised. Periodically, she would visit, praise, and reward the dog for lying on his mat. At no time during the procedure did the dog display any obvious behavioral or physiological concomitants of stress, even though we were using occasional positive punishment and negative reinforcement in conjunction with copious positive reinforcement. On the contrary, the owner is regaining control and the dog is being reintegrated into family living. I have videotaped this session to show at the upcoming APDT Educational Conference in Kansas City. Positive punishment and negative

reinforcement can be sweet and soft, yet extremely effective. I seldom recommend negative punishment because doing so often allows the dog to get away without responding appropriately. IV. Refining Performance Precision and Pizzazz Once response-reliability tops 95%, it is time to shape and differentially reinforce performance precision and pizzazz For example, fronts and finishes and stays are refined by improving attention, expression, and exact location (forwards/backwards, closer/away, etc.) and body position (e.g., five types of down stay). Recalls are progressively accelerated and heeling is fine-tuned by teaching speed-up and slow-down.

V. Protecting Performance Reliability and Precision Stage IV requires a substantial time-commitment and so it is essential to “protect” the dog’s superior performance. Snazzy obedience is quickly destroyed when obedience commands—most commonly “heel” and “down” are used to control the dog in stressful situations, e.g., around dodgy dogs or people. Much worse is when obedience commands are misused by family and friends. For example, when a husband instructs five dogs to “sit stay” at the front door, when admitting three buddies for pizza, beer, and televised sports. One dog barks, one dog jumps up, one dog gooses the guest, one dog lies

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down (knowing that husbands don’t know the difference), and one dog sits and stays … and is forgotten. When the obedient dog eventually breaks his sit stay and creeps into the living room, he is rewarded by laughter and pizza. Training is best protected by having three command levels: DogCon One, DogCon Two, and DogCon Three. The dog is given a different cue, or perhaps easier—a different name for each command level: an informal pet name, a formal name, and a competition/working/demo name respectively. The choice of name informs the dog which level of obedience is required: the pet name prefix signifies a mere suggestion (which may be ignored), the

formal name prefix requires 100% reliability, and the demo name calls for ultimate reliability, precision, and pizzazz. It’s showtime! The notion of allowing a dog to ignore a command used to shock trainers. But this is what happens most of the time around the home, anyway; giving commands and not enforcing the dog’s response is the major reason why reliability goes downhill. By acknowledging and formalizing “disobedience” and allowing a dog to ignore pet-name suggestions, we can better protect formal-name reliability. All we have to remember is that on those occasions when we use the formal-name prefix, we must insist on 100% compliance. As T. S. Eliot might have said,

“A dog requires three different names.”

Dr. Ian Dunbar is a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, and dog trainer. He has written nu-merous books and videos and hosted the popular British television series Dogs With Dunbar. He received his veterinary degree and a Special Honors degree in Physiology and Biochemistry from the Royal Veterinary College (London Uni-versity) and a doctorate in animal behavior from the University of California-Berkeley, where he spent ten years researching the development of hierarchical social behavior and aggression in domestic dogs. Dr. Dunbar is a member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons, the California Veterinary Medical Association, the Sierra Veterinary Medi-cal Association, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, and the APDT—which he founded Dr. Dunbar is currently Director of the Center for Applied Animal Behavior in Berkeley, CA, where he lives with his wife Kelly, plus dogs Claude, Ollie, and Dune, kitties Ugly and May-hem, and Spot the leopard gecko.

Lure Reward Trainingcontinued from page 9


1. Tautological—Punishment should be punishing Punishments must effectively reduce the likelihood and future frequency of the immediately preceding behavior. Repeated “punishment” is the best evidence that the “punishments” were ineffective and therefore, not punishments at all. Instead the dog perceived the so-called “punishment” as inconsequential, annoying, or abusive. On the other hand, when punishment is effective, the dog will no longer misbehave. Indeed, one definition of a dog trained to criterion could be, that punishment is no longer necessary. Checking the effectiveness of punishment (or any training technique) should be ongoing process, via a Test-Train-Test format.

2. Immediacy—Punishment must immediately follow the unwanted behavior Ideally, both “crime and punishment” should occur in less than a second. The relevance of punishment depends very much on its immediacy.

3. Instruction—Punishment should also indicate the desired response In addition to indicating “What is Wrong” (i.e., the immediately preceding behavior), a punishment should also inform the dog “What is Right.” Often, the desired behavior is evident from the specific

environmental context. For example, a punishment in the vicinity of a closed door, or another on-leash dog, usually indicates that we would like the dog to sit. Even better, the desired response may be re-emphasized by the wording of the reprimand. For example, “outside!” would be a suitable instructive reprimand for a puppy caught in the act of eliminating indoors

4. Strength—Punishment need not be unpleasant, painful, or scary, it just needs to be effective It is a huge misconception that punishments are necessarily unpleasant, painful, or scary and need be administered using some training tool or gizmo. On the contrary, a dog may be effectively punished using soft and sweet instructive reprimands. Otherwise, it remains an exacting art to precisely estimate the exact optimum strength of a punishment in any given training scenario; trainers constantly walk a knife edge—either they are too lenient and have to up the ante, or they are too severe and the dog becomes fearful. Again, for nearly all training exercises, a dog may be effectively punished using soft and sweet instructive reprimands. Occasionally, when proofing for life-threatening situations (e.g., honoring open doorways, curbside boundaries, and an emergency sit/down response), stronger instructive reprimands are used.

5. Duration—Punishment should be of extremely short-duration Extremely short-duration punishments are most effective, wherein a dog starts to misbehave, is immediately punished, and stops misbehaving (starts behaving as desired), all in less than second. Continued misbehavior, however, usually requires continued punishment. Long-duration punishment is less commonly used, and comprises two separate psychological processes: positive punishment and negative reinforcement. The instructive aspects of a long-duration punishment are the onset and the offset: commencing punishment informs the dog he is making a mistake and terminating punishment informs the dog he is back on track again.

6. Warning—Punishment should be preceded by a warning If not warned beforehand, the dog cannot learn the meaning of the warning, which would be inane. And if not warned beforehand, the dog cannot avoid the punishment, which would be inhumane. A dog must have adequate opportunity to avoid punishment by acting appropriately as previously trained. For punishments to be really effective, the dog must first be taught acceptable alternatives, and, in all instances, the appropriate instruction (request/command)

Eight Criteria for the Effective Use of Punishment in Pet Dog Training

by Ian Dunbar, PhD, BVetMed, MRCVS, CPDT


1� The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Jul/Aug 2006

must be given before the dog is punished for not responding as desired. In a sense, the request (command/stimulus/antecedent) now becomes a warning, as we now enforce (without force) a previously learned response.

7. Prior Training—Punishment should be preceded by adequate prior training Before being punished, the dog must know what the owner expects him to do, i.e., if this is wrong, what is right? Therefore, before punishing the dog for making mistakes, the owner must first teach the dog the appropriate response. Because there is only one right response, teaching a novice dog what we what him to do takes only a very short (finite) amount of time. On the other hand, there are an infinite number of “wrong” responses and so, attempting to teach a novice dog by punishing undesired responses takes an infinite amount of time—the Myth of Sisyphus! Hence, with novice dogs, punishment-training is much less time-efficient than reward-training. And time is of the essence in pet dog training.

8. Consistency—Punishment must be consistent In order for punishment-training to be effective, the dog must be punished each and every time she misbehaves. A dog only has to get away with misbehaving once to learn that there are times when she is not punished. Henceforth, the dog will reserve her misbehavior for times when the owner is

absent—either physically, mentally, or functionally.The eighth criterion illustrates why punishment-training is less effective than reward-training. Most learning theory experiments on the use of punishment were performed by computers training laboratory rats and pigeons. However, no owner is 100% consistent 100% of time. Whereas some experienced competition and working-dog trainers may achieve close to 100% consistency during an intense short-duration training session, most dog owners are highly inconsistent living with their dogs at home. Because of the difficulty in satisfying the eighth criterion, punishment-training methods are seldom expedient for pet dog training. Punishment-training is reserved for highly specific and short exercises (during which we hope the owner/trainer can at least approximate 100% consistency) for enforcing (without force) previously learned commands, and for absolute proofing in life-threatening situations. But … the most wonderful aspect of reward-training is that inconsistency does little harm, and often does a lot of good. Occasionally, a dog may be rewarded for incorrect responses (temporarily increasing time and trials to criterion), but the mistimed rewards still serve to cement the bond (classical conditioning). And of course, inconsistently rewarding a dog for correct responses cements the reliability of the desired response. Variable

reinforcement ratios, and even utterly random reinforcement, are excruciatingly effective.

Dr. Ian Dunbar is a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, and dog trainer. He has written numerous books and videos and hosted the popular British television series Dogs With Dunbar. Dr. Dunbar received his veterinary degree and a Special Honors degree in Physiology and Biochemistry from the Royal Veterinary College (London University) and a doctorate in animal behavior from the Psychology Department at the University of California-Berkeley, where he spent ten years researching the development of hierarchical social behavior and aggression in domestic dogs. Dr. Dunbar is a member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons, the California Veterinary Medical Association, the Sierra Veterinary Medical Association, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, and the Association of Pet Dog Trainers—which he founded Dr. Dunbar is currently Director of the Center for Applied Animal Behavior in Berkeley, California, where he lives with his wife Kelly, plus dogs Claude, Ollie, and Dune, kitties Ugly and Mayhem, and Spot the leopard gecko.

Eight Criteria for the Effective Use of Punishment in Pet Dog Trainingcontinued from previous page


On Behavior Edited by Terry Long, CPDT

The original case study was published in the May/June 2006 issue of The APDT Chronicle of the Dog.

Ten-Week Follow Up Visit For Kiri 1. Due to continued aggression noted between Kiri and Ricki, efforts need to be made to keep them separated as much as possible. When it is necessary for one of them to pass the other in a kennel, the kenneled dog should be cued to sit or lie down calmly. Using a Treat ‘N’ Train® device might be helpful for remotely rewarding the dogs during such situations. 2. The owner will begin using the Gentle Leader® on Kiri. The muzzle can be fitted over the Gentle Leader® when necessary. Previously, they did not feel Kiri would have allowed them to put the Gentle Leader® on her routinely. They now think she may. 3. Try slowly switching Kiri to a new diet. Some dogs physiologically respond better to one diet or another. This is a matter of trial and error for the most part, but start with some type of “natural” diet that is low in cereal by-products, colors, and preservatives. Some examples of these are: raw diet, homemade diets, California Natural®, Nature’s Variety®, etc. Stay away from any

type of performance diet that is very high in protein and/or calories. Keep her on the diet at least four weeks before determining whether it has helped. Also stay away from any commercial dog treats such as Snausages®, Beggin’ Strips®, etc. Use healthy table food or commercial dog rolls such as Natural Balance for dog treats. 4. Keep working on small areas of self-control and relaxation. For example, from now on, the command “sit” and “down” should include silence. If she is barking while sitting, the owner should not reward the behavior. 5. Introduce a more intensive use of bridges into her training. The owner can teach both a terminal bridge (which means the behavior is over) and an intermediate bridge or Keep Going Signal (KGS). The use of both of these bridges will allow the owner to give Kiri more continuous feedback about her progress toward the goal behavior. The KGS gives her second-by-second information. Kiri’s behaviors must be shaped in small increments since she has short-duration focus and self-control. If she is asked to inhibit her behavior (e.g., down- stay) for longer than she is capable, she will break from the behavior and likely be even more agitated than if the owner had released her earlier than necessary. The release (terminal

bridge) is actually very important because it gives the dog a moment or two to “de-stress” from the labor of the required behavior, before putting her back on task. 6. Introduce more target training. We discussed how the owners could use target training to assist in toweling Kiri after a bath by teaching her to target her front feet onto a small platform (e.g., a two-by-four). She also must remain standing still in order for the owner to “reward” her by continuing the toweling process. If Kiri moves, the owner should stop touching her, and recue her onto the target. Once she is on target, she gets the KGS while the owner begins toweling. At first the owner should only towel a small section of her body before giving her the terminal bridge and allowing her to come off target. Then the owner can recue her and do another section. Over time the owner can towel larger portions of her body before giving the terminal bridge. 7. Continue to work on the relaxation/settle exercises. 8. Anytime Kiri is calmly resting, reward her. Frequently reward any inactivity and the lack of jaw popping, etc. 9. Because Kiri often bolts away in agility when the owner even briefly breaks focus on her (e.g., to look ahead to the next

Case Study Follow-Up: Kiri, The Agitated, Hyperactive Golden Retriever

by Lore Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB, CPDT



obstacle), the owner should begin teaching Kiri to stay focused on her when she is not giving Kiri direct eye contact. She can get Kiri’s attention, look away briefly, and immediately reward Kiri while the owner’s eyes or head is still turned away (but while the dog is still looking up at her). Slowly increase the amount of time the owner is looking away before rewarding Kiri. The owner can progress to turning her body all the way around, slowly walking past Kiri, and/or walking directly away from Kiri. With these latter maneuvers, the owner may need a mirror to make sure Kiri is still watching her. The owner may also need another person to give the bridge signals during and at the end of the behavior; however, the reward should come from the handler. 10. We discussed the controversy about “sub-optimal” thyroid status in dogs. We started Kiri on a two-week trial of low-dose thyroxin supplementation. Kiri was started on 0.2 mg thyroxine twice daily. After three days, the owner reported that the dog’s behavior had deteriorated. The owner journaled the dog’s behavior in relation to various experimentation with the thyroid dose (from 0.2 mg to none at all) over the next several days. The association between the relapse and the thyroxine appeared real and not just an unrelated down cycle in the dog’s behavior. Thyroxine was discontinued. 11. 14 weeks post initial consult, Kiri is stabilized on 15 mg methylphenidate every eight hours. She remains fearful of

noises, but her ability to focus and filter out environmental stimuli has improved greatly. Kiri and Ricki continue to be reactive to each other in the house, but the owner is able to walk them together when away from the house. Kiri also continues to have problems maintaining focus when walking/heeling with the owner at agility. The owner can continue working on training the dog to stay focused without eye contact. The owner can also experiment with teaching the dog to target to a spot on her arm or leg when walking at heel to encourage the dog to maintain focus. A trial of clomipramine 5 mg twice daily will be instituted to try to further reduce the dog’s reactivity and noise sensitivity.

Lore I. Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB, CPDT, CABC has been involved with dogs since 1979, participating in competitive obedience, agility, and tracking. An APDT member since 1995, Lore graduated from Texas A&M University to College of Veterinary Medicine (College Station, TX) in 1993, completed a residency in behavior from 1999-2002, and became a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behavior in 2002. Lore added a master’s degree in 2003, the CPDT in 2004, and is currently on the faculty at

the College. She can be reached at [email protected].

“On Behavior” editor Terry Long, CPDT, is a professional writer, dog trainer, and behavior counselor in Long Beach, CA. She is the former managing editor of The APDT Chronicle of the Dog and authors Dog World’s “About Agility” column. She can be reached through her Web site at www.dogpact.com.

On Behaviorcontinued from previous page


Beatrice, my Husky/Beagle mix, is giving me the hairy eyeball. There are three

dogs in her front yard, and she would really like to go tell them a thing or two. I, however, am insisting that she sit quietly by my side and control that urge. She does, and when the dogs have gone, she trots off to find a tennis ball. I owe her a game of fetch. A cookie or some petting instead? Not good enough! You get what you pay for. One of the biggest stumbling blocks for pet dog owners can be frustration at lack of reinforcer efficacy, as compared to apparent effectiveness of punishers. The impact of a punisher can be so immediate and so dramatic, that compulsory training can seem easier and more accessible. As positive trainers, however, it behooves us to help clients understand the complexities of well-utilized reinforcement techniques. It’s easy to become complacent with reinforcers, however, especially if your case load is made up of a large number of chow hounds. Yet it can be very useful to think outside the “cookie jar.”

Reinforcement Variety The term “variety” is used here to delineate the category of reinforcement: edible, sensory, or social. Edible reinforcers are, for many dogs, the favorite kind. These are easy to procure and utilize—fill the bait bag with yummies and off we go. Here are many reasons, however, to explore the

spectrum of possible reinforcement techniques available, and to urge clients to do the same. For the dog, access to different types of reinforcement expands reliability of target behaviors, as reinforcement can be delivered whether treats are available or not. Think of it this way: you might train dogs because people pay you to do so. But most of us also receive positive reinforcement when clients exclaim their pleasure at their dog’s progress and at watching “light-

bulb” moments for the dogs. We enjoy the interaction with the dogs themselves—the tail wags when we approach. The paychecks keep us working when we’re frustrated, tired, or bored, or dealing with a challenging dog and/or owner. But the social reinforcement (and even sensory reinforcement—petting a dog is enjoyable for humans as well as dogs!) makes us stay after class to answer questions, compels us to do pro bono and volunteer work, and propels us to train and compete with our own dogs. Dogs are social creatures—how often do we talk with our clients about problem behaviors that stem from lack of appropriate

social skills on the part of dogs? The need that often drives challenging behaviors can be the source of reinforcement as well. It’s not always easy to convince clients, who desire nothing more than closeness with their canine companions, to utilize attention well as reinforcement. But once they understand that interaction in the form of games, outings, or just “hanging out” with their dogs can be a valuable training tool when doled out for target behaviors, they ultimately find the time spent with their dogs is more enjoyable. This then, becomes reinforcement for them, and will result in increased usage of social reinforcers. A simple example of this might be the training of a retrieve with a ball placed in the owner’s hand. If the ball isn’t thrown until placed politely in the hand (and the dog wants the ball to be thrown), the polite ball return will increase. Playing ball this way is often much more pleasant for the human, who can now sit on a lawn chair with a beverage and “play fetch.” So playing fetch becomes a more common occurrence. Not only are dogs highly social, they are highly sensory. Doesn’t it make good sense to utilize this to our advantage as trainers? Although many pet dog owners recognize that their dogs like to receive petting, they often don’t explore sensory reinforcement beyond providing a few scratches behind the ear. Teaching the fundamentals of canine massage

Shake It Up, Baby:The Dynamics of Reinforcement

by Merope Pavlides, MS, CPDT

"There are many reasons, however, to explore the spectrum

of possible reinforcement

techniques available, and to urge clients to

do the same."



can be a great way to urge clients to vary the kinds of touch they offer in exchange for target behaviors. (And can often teach them to be more attuned to the types of touch dogs don’t like!) Allowing dogs to sniff as reinforcement—whether informally or as a structured game of “hide and seek,” can be an extremely useful tool. Access to a window to watch outdoor comings and going—as long as arousal level doesn’t get out of hand—can be a great reward and “brain-break” for some dogs. We all know a dog or two who would do circus tricks for a chance to ride in a car. This activity can be a tremendous tool—offering both a sensory “high” and social interaction as well. One of the other wonderful aspects of prodding clients to think across this reinforcement spectrum is that dog owners become more creative in their approaches to positive training. We cherish creativity in our dogs, and bringing that same spark to training helps foster an exciting and interactive relationship between dogs and their humans. If training sessions are fun for all, they will be more likely to occur, resulting in a dog more fluent in appropriate behaviors, and an owner more aware of dog responses.

Reinforcement is Unique to the Individual Not only do we need to remember that variety is truly the spice of life, we also need to keep in mind that one dog’s trash is another’s treasure. Clients often ask trainers to recommend

treats and toys. We all have our favorites, items chosen because they seem popular with the furry set. But we need to encourage owners to really investigate the preferences of each individual dog, both across the spectrum of reinforcers, and within each category. It’s not too much to ask clients to engage in some informal “reinforcer sampling.” Does Fido prefer treats or toys? Petting or games? Do hot dogs trump liver treats? Ball chase beat tug? Belly rubs better than chin tickles? Knowing the answers to questions like these help fill the trainer

toolbox. Humans who preside over multi-dog households may also need reminding that no two dogs will respond the same way to a reinforcer. While a woman and her sister might both be chocoholics, one might prefer chocolate-covered cherries, the other nut clusters. Good information for a husband to know! The closer the reinforcer is to specific preference, the more powerful it will be. Sometimes we sell our clients short, assuming that they aren’t able or willing to think about reinforcement in detail. Make a game in class out of reinforcer sampling—the owner who returns the following week with the most examples of specfic, varied reinforcements for his/her dog wins a prize..

Reinforcement Changes Very few things in life are static, including reinforcer preferences. The power of any individual reinforcer changes over time and environment. As a puppy, Rover may have loved playing tug. As a mature adult, however, the game may hold little interest. Scratches at the base of the tail may no longer feel good to the dog with aging hips. Paw touch may only be pleasurable at the end of the day when Rover is relaxed. Attention to evolution of reinforcement over the course of the dog’s day, year, or life will help keep variety fresh. Remember eating smores by the campfire? Try one again in your kitchen and see if it’s as wonderful. Reinforcer efficacy in differing environments can often confound dog owners. Nice sit-stays for treats at home disappear at the park. Interested in a toy as a stranger approaches? You’ve got to be kidding! All too often, an event in which a dog doesn’t respond to the reinforcement offered causes the owner to doubt the usefulness of a reinforcement-based approach to training. Helping them understand how fluid reinforcement can be may make them more likely to commit globally to positive training.

Automatically Reinforcing Behaviors When previously favored reinforcers fail to increase behaviors in certain environments, it is often because the environment is providing other, stronger reinforcement. On a walk in the

Shake It Up, Baby: The Dynamics of Reinforcementcontinued from previous page


"Reinforcer efficacy in differing

environments can often confound dog

owners."


park, for instance, barking and lunging may make strangers back away. Access to distance from the stranger is more reinforcing than the treat offered for a polite sit. Conversely, jumping up on a stranger may provide attention, which may also be more coveted at this moment than a treat. Sometimes, however, the reinforcement seems more mysterious. Access to liver might not be nearly as wonderful as smelling another dog’s pee-mail. Certain behaviors are inherently reinforcing for the dog. Barking, sniffing, licking, tail-chasing, chewing, can all be automatically reinforcing. The dog may receive sensory reinforcement from the

behavior. Arousal levels may be heightened by engaging in the behavior, and at some point, being aroused simply feels good. Figuring out why a dog is engaging in a self-reinforcing behavior may be, however, an exercise in futility. And it doesn’t really matter. What’s important is understanding the behavior’s power. Then the behavior can be used to the trainer’s advantage, or the trainer can attempt to counter-condition so the behavior doesn’t occur. We’re all familiar with the Premack Principle: a higher probability behavior can be used to reinforce a lower probability behavior. Behaviors that are intrinsically reinforced

are certainly as likely to occur as those that are reinforced by us. Why not add them to our reinforcer inventory? Beatrice, for example, loves to bark at jet skis. This isn’t a problematic behavior, because a jet ski is much louder than she is! She is first asked for a recall and a sit, then released to bark at the noisy intruder. The strength of the barking as reinforcement increases her willingness to offer a quick recall lakeside.

Schedules of Reinforcement Not only is it helpful to “shake it up” in terms of reinforcer variety, it is crucial to keep in mind that schedules of reinforcement delivery




can be key in increasing desired behaviors. Owners sometimes need to be reminded that behaviors on acquisition are best mastered by continuous reinforcement—so keep those treats handy! However, understanding schedules of reinforcement often will help assure them that their dog will learn to “work for them.” Intermittent reinforcement schedules can be broken into two types: ratio schedules (based on number of responses) and interval schedules (based on length of time between responses.) Ratio schedules are most common, whether fixed-ratio or variable-ratio. A fixed ratio schedule is one in which the dog is reinforced after a certain number of responses. (A treat after every third hurdle jump, for instance), while a variable ratio schedule means that a reinforcer is delivered after a random number of responses. A variable ratio schedule can contribute greatly to proofing target behavior, and clients should be instructed in implementing this. Describing this schedule in terms of slot machine payout is an easily understood illustration. Interval schedules, either fixed or variable, can be used to train duration behaviors. In training loose-leash walking for example, a reinforcer might be delivered based on amount of time spent walking nicely. As with ratio schedules, a variable interval schedule will ultimately prove more effective than a fixed interval schedule. To help clients become fluent with this notion, it may help to walk in tandem with them and prompt for reinforcement, until they discover a

personal rhythm.

Not Just for Dogs For many trainers, a disconnect exists between training ability and teaching ability. As solid as our dog handling skills might be, their value lies in our abilities to transfer them to pet parents. Positive training means utilizing positive reinforcement methods with humans as well as dogs. Dole out praise, prizes, and social interaction. Dog owners come to us not only to learn how to train behaviors, but to access an active listener where their dogs are concerned. Remember to target and mark human behavior as it happens and reward it. “Mary, look at how well Snooky is heeling for you, keep it up!” And afterwards, “You two had a great class tonight, I can’t wait to see what you accomplish by next week.” For clients most reinforcement will be social—but the occasional human treat or game doesn’t hurt either. Reinforcement for children involved in training should be immediate and of value to them. At the end of a class or training session, always leave both dogs and humans wanting more!

Merope Pavlides lives in Ellicott City, Maryland and owns Compliant

Canines, LLC (www.compliantcanines.com) and Bea’s Barkery (www.beasbarkery.com). She may be reached at [email protected].

.



Ethics for Dog Trainers Edited by Jim Barry, CPDT

The Chronicle Ethics Column presents case studies of ethical dilemmas, based on discussions on the APDT e-mail list or contributions from readers. (All cases are edited to preserve anonymity.) Our panel then offers comments on how best to resolve such ethical challenges. We invite readers to submit their own case studies, or comments on previous cases, to the column editor, Jim Barry, at [email protected].

The current case involves a clash between values: telling the truth versus

respecting another trainer’s privacy.

The Case of the Missing Trainer A potential client contacts Bob and asks him for information about training programs because she needs training for her 14-week lab puppy. Partway through the conversation, she tells Bob that she has already contracted with another trainer who’s charged her $250 for six one-hour in-home sessions. The first trainer showed up for the first session, a one-hour lecture, and collected the fee. She called two days later to say she’d been in a car accident and wouldn’t be able to make the next scheduled session, but would call back soon to reschedule. Nearly a month has gone by with no word from the trainer, nor does she return voice mails. Naturally, the client is feeling ripped off. Aside from the cell phone number and name, they have no other information on this

what has gone on between this trainer and the client. If the client is telling the truth and the situation is as straight forward as she says, the trainer is acting unethically and should refund the money for services she did not provide. However, it is not Bob’s job to pursue this. If he wants to help he could contact the trainer himself to discuss the situation and inform the trainer that the client is calling around looking for them. Jim: This is a classic ethical dilemma. It is right to respond honestly to requests for information and it is right to respect another’s privacy. Which “right” should take precedence? In my view, Bob’s behavior was acceptable up to the point at which he was asked a direct question. At that point he had three options: to tell the truth about the other trainer’s location; to lie, as he did in this case; or to tell the client that he was not comfortable sharing private information about another trainer and suggesting that her attorney should be able to assist. By choosing deliberately to tell an untruth, Bob took the lower moral road. There were other options available and he should have pursued them. Kelly: Bob has only gotten one side of the story here and because of that, his choice was not wrong. With the limited information he has, it would have been inappropriate for Bob to give the potential client information about the other trainer’s place of employment. However, Bob

person, and they plan to go to court to track her down and hold her responsible for the fee. In the course of the conversation, the potential client lets slip the first trainer’s name, and it turns out to be someone Bob knows slightly. In fact, he is aware that she has a full-time clerical position at a local shelter. Bob decides not to tell the client where the other trainer works and changes the subject to the content of his training services. The conversation ends with the potential client saying she will call Bob back about scheduling a session.Two weeks later the potential client calls back to say that she has decided to take her dog to a board and train program, a service Bob does not provide. She mentions again that she is still trying to find the first trainer and recover her money, which she needs to pay for the board and train program. She says to Bob, “There aren’t that many trainers around here. Do you have any idea how I can go about finding her?” Bob says he has no idea, and wishes her luck.

Was Bob’s action right or wrong? How did you decide?

Responses Jen: Bob is right. It is unethical to give out personal information without consent. Bob can give the client the trainers’ training business name and number because that is already public information. There may be more to this story than the client is letting on, and Bob does not know the situation and/or continued on next page


Ethics for Dog Trainerscontinued from previous page

also has an obligation to the professional training community. That includes helping to protect consumers from unethical trainers and helping to protect the general public perception of trainers as reputable professionals. With that obligation in mind, Bob could have done something more. For example, Bob could have contacted the trainer himself at the shelter and spoken with her about the potential client and her claims. If Bob was uncomfortable with contacting the trainer himself or getting any more involved in the situation between the trainer and poential client, Bob could have made some other suggestions to the client, like contacting the Better Business Bureau or contacting

any professional organization to which the other trainer belongs and seeking the organization’s assistance in dealing with this issue with the trainer. In summary, the panel acknowl-edged that Bob was torn between truthfulness and loyalty, and their differing responses reflected the difficulty of his choice. What’s your view?

Jim Barry, CPDT, teaches dog train-ing classes and does behavior consul-tations in RI and Southeastern MA. A former college professor, he also con-ducts training course on professional ethics for government executives.

Jennifer Dumond, CPDT, teaches dog training classes and does behavior consultations in OR. She has a deep

interest in animal welfare and has worked with dogs, horses, cats, goats, and other small animals.

Kelly Ryan teaches dog training and tricks classes and does behavior consultations in Sacramento, CA. In addition, she has been a practicing attorney for over ten years, and has provided guidance on professional eth-ics for attorneys.


Members Speak!Service Dogs I love The APDT Chronicle of the Dog and would like to commend the staff on not one but two articles regarding working with people with disabilities. However, I noticed a error regarding legal information in the article “Service Dogs Defined” (Jan/Feb 2005) that concerned me. This error leads the reader to believe that the ADA’s definition of disability is much broader than it actually is. It seems the author is referring to the ADA’s definition as it was over six years ago and it has significantly changed since then. Specifically the author wrote: “The question of whether a person has a disability should be assessed without regard to the availability of mitigating measures, such as reasonable modifications or auxiliary aides and services.” She goes on to list examples of disorders such as “epilepsy or diabetes that substantially limit a major life activity, are covered under the first prong of the definition of disability, even if the effects of the impairment are controlled by medication.” As per the landmark Supreme Court decision, Sutton v. United Airlines (1999) this is no longer true. Mitigating measures are

considered in the determination of disability. The ADA Technical Assistance Manual (published by the EEOC) elaborates: “First, the Supreme Court has ruled that the determination of whether a person has an ADA “disability” must take into consideration whether the person is substantially limited in performing a major life activity when using a mitigating measure. This means that if a person has little or no difficulty performing any major life activity because s/he uses a mitigating measure, then that person will not meet the ADA’s first definition of “disability.” The Supreme Court’s rulings were in Sutton v. United Airlines, Inc., 527 U.S. 471 (1999), and Murphy v. United Parcel Service, Inc., 527 U.S. 516 (1999).” For the full document go here: http://www.eeoc.gov/policy/docs/adamanual_add.html. Another good resource is the ADA & IT information center: http://www.adainfo.org/publications/newsletter/winter00.asp#definition. Unfortunately, in my opinion, the Sutton case has substantially reduced the number of people protected under the ADA’s

definition of disability. I always tell people with questions to consult with an attorney specializing in the ADA. I also caution dog trainers interested in training service dogs that the definition of disability under the ADA has undergone extreme scrutiny by the Supreme Court and has become much narrower. It is not easy to determine who is and is not disabled under the ADA. I am concerned that pet dog trainers may give their clients incorrect information, or may mistakenly believe a client has the legal right to use a service dog when they do not.

Veronica Sanchez MEd CABCVienna, VA

Letters to the Editor To comment on an author's work, or to let us know what topics you would like to see more of, contact our Managing Editor via e-mail at [email protected] and attach your letter as a Microsoft Word or RTF file. Please put “APDT Pick of the Letter” in the subject line of your email. Please limit your letter to 250 words or less. Please note, the edi-tor reserves the right to edit for length, grammar, and clarity.

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OF DOGSWIZARDHE

OF DOGSWIZARDHE

P R E S E N T SP R E S E N T S

For a complete listing of courses and descriptions, visit www.apdt.com.

Remember, we’re not inKansas anymore...

We’re in Kansas City, Missouri!

September 13-17, 2006Kansas City, Missouri

Sign up by August 7, 2006and save!

Association of Pet Dog Trainers13th Annual EducationalConference and Trade Show

Take a journey down the yellow brickroad with the Association of Pet DogTrainers to Kansas City, Missouri for theAPDT Annual Educational Conference andTrade Show, September 13 - 17, 2006.

Check out some of our conference highlights:

Hands On Workshop at a Local ShelterJoin us for a three hour hands-on workshop atWayside Waifs Shelter. You will be working with ashelter dog as Allen Bauman teaches that, in order fora reward to be effective, the dog must have somemotivational drive towards it. Inappropriaterewarding can result in poor control of your dog’sdrives. “Reward! (But Do It Properly) Controllingthe Drive”

Wet Labs■ “What’s New Puppy Dog?” Sneak a peak at the new training and behavior products from Premier Pet Products.

■ Gentle Leader® Headcollar and Easy Walk Harness™: compare and contrast these two products.

■ Nuts and Bolts of Using Spray Products.

All these topics will be covered in our wet labs.Remember, registration is limited!

For complete informationon all conferenceprograms and registration,visit the APDT Web site atwww.APDT.com.


Questions? Call 1.866.570.9967 or E-mail [email protected]

Ray Coppinger, PhDAfter Dr. Coppinger received his PhD, he joined the founding faculty at HampshireCollege. He teaches and does research on animal behavior, especially the behavior ofcanids. Ray’s first professional study of dogs occurred on the runners of a dog sled. Hisresearch projects include responses of racing dogs to the stress of heat retention, and theamount of energy required to pull a sled and driver. In 1976, Ray began a long-terminvestigation about early developmental behavior of dogs. His latest book is DOGS: A NewUnderstanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and Evolution (Scribner, NY, 2001; Univ.Chicago Press, 2002).

Susan Garrett, BScA natural teacher and an entertaining speaker, Susan Garrett is recognized as a leadingeducator of dog trainers. Her understanding of how to apply learning principles to dogtraining has made her a much sought after speaker throughout North America and as faraway as Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Bermuda, and Europe. Susan’s interest in animalbehavior began at the University of Guelph, where she earned a BSc in Animal Science.Her first book Ruff Love: A Relationship Building Program has become a favorite resourcefor dog trainers world wide. Her latest book Shaping Success: The Education of an UnlikelyChampion was named the 2005 “Book of the Year” in the category of Training and Behaviorby the Dog Writers Association of America.

Wayne Hunthausen, DVMDr. Wayne Hunthausen received his Bachelor of Arts (Zoology) and Doctor of VeterinaryMedicine degrees from the University of Missouri. He writes for a variety of veterinary andpet publications and is co-author of The Practitioner’s Guide to Pet Behavior Problems andHandbook of Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat; co-editor of the books Dog Behaviorand Training: Veterinary Advice for Owners and Cat Behavior and Training: VeterinaryAdvice for Owners. He helped develop and appeared in the award winning child safetyvideo “Dogs, Cats & Kids: Learning to be Safe With Animals.”

James Serpell, PhDDr. Serpell is a Professor of Humane Ethics and Animal Welfare at the School of VeterinaryMedicine, University of Pennsylvania, where he directs the Center for the Interaction ofAnimals and Society. He received his Bachelor’s degree in zoology and his PhD on thebehavior of Loriine parrots. Dr. Serpell is President of the International Society forAnthrozoology (ISAZ), and is a former Council Member of the International Society forApplied Ethology. He has publishing numerous articles on animal behavior, and human-animal relationships, and is the author of several books including In the Company ofAnimals and Companion Animals & Us.

The APDT conference Web site is updated regularly! Visit www.apdt.com.

Here are some highlights on some of the Wizards


For a complete listing of courses and descriptions, visit www.apdt.com.

Wednesday, September 13

Don’t Wanna—Don’t Haf’ta: Does Training withoutCorrections Spoil the Dog?Susan Garrett

A Discussion - The Evolution of the Dog and how itAffects Our PetsJames A. Serpell, PhD and Ray Coppinger, PhD

Kitten SocializationSteve Dale, CDBC, CCBC

Thursday, September 14

Can We Talk? What is Human Dog TrainingAnyway? (INT)Donna Duford

Drive: Building, Controlling and Maintaining it (NTD)Susan Garrett

The Science of Dog Behavior (SCI)Ray Coppinger, PhD

Human-Animal Mutualism: Putting the Benefitsof the Human-Animal Bond to Use in Momentsof Crisis (INT)Janet Velenovsky, CPDT

Husbandry (INT)Emma Parsons, CDBC

Backyard Science (SCI)Janice Kolar-Matznick, CPDT

YOU Can Beat BSL (INT)Steve Dale, CDBC, CCBC and Jamie Damato, CPDT

Knick-Knack Paddywack – Train Your Pup atHome (NTD)Allen Bauman, CPDT

A View from the Bridge (INT)Karen Pryor

Friday, September 15

Observing the Details of Dog Behavior – FromSociability to Aggression (NTD)Sue Sternberg

Click to Calm (INT)Emma Parsons, CDBC

Acupressure for the Canine Athlete – Health at YourFingertips (SCI)Douglas Knueven, DVM, CVA, CAC

“I Was Lured!” (NTD)Ian Dunbar, CEO CAAB Inc., BSc, BVetMed, MRCVS,PhD, CPDT

Dogs: Social Experts (INT)Sheila Harper, BEd

Meeting Your Students’ Needs by Teaching to TheirLearning Styles (INT)Don Hanson, CPDT, BFRP

How Dangerous is He? Assessing the Risk of Injuryby Aggressive Dogs (INT)Wayne Hunthausen, DVM

Solving the Mystery: Taking a History (INT)Nicole Wilde, CPDT

The wonderful Wizards Of Dogs will all be at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers2006 Annual Educational Conference in Kansas City, Missouri

Here are highlights of the Dog Wizards’ agenda


Questions? Call 1.866.570.9967 or E-mail [email protected]

Opening Doors: Accessible Dog Training Classes forPersons with Disabilities (INT)Mary Lee Nitschke, PhD, CPDT, CAAB

Training 101: The Practical Side of the Science (NTD)Ken Ramirez

Understanding Aggression in Dogs (SCI)James Serpell, PhD

Working With Shy and Fearful Dogs: Tips, Techniquesand Misconceptions (NTD)Donna Duford

Saturday, September 16

Arousal and Aggression in the Sport of Agility (INT)Sue Sternberg

Clicker Training and the Pet Owner (NTD)Karen Pryor

Describing Dog Behavior: The Ethogram (SCI)Janice Kolar-Matznick, CPDT

Fido’s Fear Factor:Treating Canine Fear Issues (INT/NTD)Nicole Wilde, CPDT

How An Enriched Environment Can Really Make aDifference (INT)Sheila Harper, BEd

Fears and Phobias: An Overview of Why Pets BecomeFearful and Protocols for Treating Them (INT)Wayne Hunthausen, DVM

Stress Symptoms Caused by the Use of Electric TrainingCollars on Dogs in Everyday Life Situations (SCI)Esther Schalke, PhD

Know Your Dog – A Proactive Approach to CanineHealth (INT)Thom and Cindy Somes

Hands on Workshop at a Local ShelterReward! (But Do It Properly) Controlling the Drive (INT)Allen Bauman, CPDT

The Biology of Emotion in People and Dogs (SCI)Patricia McConnell, PhD

K9 Games (INT/NTD)Ian Dunbar, CEO, CAAB Inc., BSc, BVetMed, MRCVS,PhD, CPDT

Natural Nutrition for Dogs – Food For Thought (SCI)Douglas Knueven, DVM, CVA, CAC

Sunday, September 17

Evolving Essentials: Meeting the Needs of the ModernDog Owner (INT)Nicole Wilde, CPDT

“Here Kitty, Kitty!” Developing Enrichment and TrainingStrategies for ‘Man’s Other Best Friends’ (INT)Janet Velenovsky, CPDT

Temperament (INT)Esther Schalke, PhD

I’ve Just Attended the APDT Conference and My Headis Spinning! (INT)Donna Duford

Variety, Variability and Creativity: Hidden Challengesand Unexpected Opportunities (INT)Ken Ramirez

Promoting Your Services Through EffectiveMarketing (INT)Don Hanson, CPDT, BFRP

General Session:

Why are We Stupid in Love with Our Dogs?Patricia McConnell, PhD


Canine Profiling and The Important Role of Dog Trainers

by Mary Zoller

An increasing number of state and local governments are passing

laws and ordinances banning or restricting ownership of specific breeds of dogs in an effort to curtail injuries and deaths perpetrated by dangerous or potentially dangerous dogs. While not new, this breed specific legislation (BSL) has continued to gain support and momentum since 1984, when pit bulls were banned in Minneapolis, MN and Cincinnati, OH, and later in Denver, CO in 1989. The American Kennel Club (AKC) reports that localities in Delaware, Illinois, Missouri, New Jersey, Ohio, and Oklahoma undertook banning ownership of specific breeds in the last year. The catalyst for these bills is typically a dog bite resulting in a serious injury or fatality that makes headlines. It becomes a problem that elected officials attempt to solve through laws and regulations to alleviate the fears of their constituents. At the same time, insurance companies are quietly instituting policies to deny coverage to owners of certain breeds under their homeowner’s insurance policies on the basis of the numbers of dogs of certain breeds or breed mixes inflicting the bites. The proponents of breed bans use statistics on fatalities and injuries caused by dogs to make the case for such policy decisions and a generalization or stereotype about certain breeds. In a February 2, 2006 article in the The New Yorker entitled “Troublemakers,” Malcolm

Gladwell explores whether the basis of these policies are sound by asking whether a ban is based on a stable or unstable generalization? A stable generalization is founded on a thorough examination of many facts and considerations that support the conclusion, while an unstable one uses only a few facts to support the stereotype. Opponents of breed bans answer that statistics and stereotypes cannot be responsibly used to document the “dangerousness” of a particular breed relative to other breeds. They view them as the canine equivalent of racial profiling. The Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (2001, Vol. 218, No. 11, June 1) states:• A dog’s tendency to bite depends on at least five interacting factors: heredity, early experience, later socialization and training, health, and victim behavior. • There is no objective method of determining the breed of a particular dog.

Further, Karen Delise, author of Fatal Dog Attacks: The Stories Behind the Statistics, says “the problem exists not within the breed of dog, but rather within the owners who fail to control, supervise, maintain, and properly train the breed of dog they choose to keep.” National organizations and associations representing dog owners and professionals, who are on the front lines combating breed bans, take the position

that breed bans are inappropriate and ineffective in addressing the problem of dog bite injuries and fatalities. They insist that policy makers should focus on the larger issues that contribute to the dog bite problem, not on the particular breed of dog who inflicted the bite. These organizations include the American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions, the Humane Society of the United States, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and the AKC. They are working to educate policy makers that the bans fail to take into account the true versus perceived threat, i.e., 10-20 fatalities per year perpetrated by 25 breeds and breed mixes, not hundreds by a few breeds (JAVMA). In addition, elected officials need to take into account the contributing factors if they are to craft effective solutions to reduce the number of bites. These factors include the popularity and corresponding number dogs of a particular breed at a certain point in time (e.g., Dobermans in the past, pit bulls today), or in a particular area (inner city versus. suburbs); the reasons people choose these breeds (protection and fighting versus companionship); the circumstances under which the bite and attack occurred; the behavior of the victim; the actions of the owner (e.g., tethering the dog, not providing adequate housing, socialization, and/or training the



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dog to be aggressive); the history of the dog (e.g., health, whether it was selectively bred for fighting or subject to abuse and neglect); the adequacy of existing laws and regulations and their enforcement. Moreover, they point out the problems in implementing such policies and enforcing laws and regulations that ban certain breeds and the cost of the ban in relation to the benefits. Fanciers of the Pit Bull visually describe the difficulty of clearly identifying a pit bull since this is not a single breed (see Resources on page 31). Ironically, the breed bans may even increase the demand for that particular breed by those who desire aggressive dogs. They may also force responsible dog owners to move to other jurisdictions, where

those local governments then feel compelled to initiate a breed ban. Or they may encourage owners to abandon or hide their dogs. Opponents have an uphill battle in the face of what has become an emotional issue, often fueled by media hype. However, the efforts of a group in Colorado may prove to be instructive for other states and local communities as they seek to counteract growing sentiments in support of breed bans. The Coalition for Living Safely with Dogs, a group of Colorado animal health, care, and control professionals, came together because they share the view that while breed bans may reduce people’s fears in the short-term, they actually give people a false sense of security, and are not

the solution to the socio-economic issues of crime, animal abuse, and ignorance that are at the root of the problem. They offer assistance to municipalities and homeowner associations who want to establish and enforce new or more effective dangerous dog ordinances and regulations and create a common understanding about dangerous dogs. The Coalition also aims to educate owners and the general public on how to live safely with dogs and has drafted legislation to address the issue of dangerous dogs. They offer a list of common questions and answers about why breed bans are not effective and offer alternatives (see Resources on page 31.) In addition, using the approach

Canine Profiling and The Important Role of Dog Trainerscontinued from previous page



Canine Profiling and The Important Role of Dog Trainerscontinued from page 29

employed by public health and public safety in addressing specific crime and health problems can be effective in addressing the problem of dog bites. This involves conducting surveillance of dog bites using geo-mapping to determine exactly where and when bites occur as well as collecting qualitative and quantitative information about the dog, victim, owner and circumstances. The Centers for Disease Control and the Texas Department of Health have begun preliminary work that shows promise in developing meaningful interventions and preventing bites. Even in the absence of good data on dog bites in a community, dog trainers can play an important role in the battle over breed bans. How?1. Become knowledgeable about bully breeds and how they are different, e.g., quick arousal, or identify experts to whom you can refer clients to understand how to prevent bites, and train and manage these dogs, e.g., breed clubs or rescue groups.2. Educate owners about why dogs bite, how to prevent bites—especially bites to children—and how to behave if approached by a dangerous dog.3. Encourage clients to select dogs that are a good match for their lifestyle and where they live.4. Provide opportunities for clients to socialize their dogs to other dogs and people, educating them about the risks of dog parks and rough play—particularly for bully breeds.5. Support additional funding for local animal control and training of officers. 6. Volunteer your time to evaluate

shelter dogs and their suitability for prospective owners.7. Promote training and management of dogs along with publicizing and recommending compliance with local ordinances on dogs, perhaps as part of Canine Good Citizen classes.8. Plan events in conjunction with state or nationally designated weeks to promote responsible dog ownership: e.g., the CDC, AMVA and U.S Postal Service are working to plan events during National Dog Bite Prevention Week, the third week in May, and the AKC has designated the month of September as Responsible Dog Ownership Month.9. Request a study of the issue prior to your state or local government passing a breed ban and make sure that those with experience in dog behavior and training participate in the study.10. Enlist public health and public safety organizations in conducting surveillance of this problem so that effective strategies can be employed to reduce dog bites.11. Identify allies and work with them to provide a clear, coherent message about why breed bans are not effective. Offer viable alternatives for consideration. 12. Support laws or regulations that take a long term, comprehensive approach to preventing dog bites and fatalities and responsible dog ownership.13. Educate veterinarians and technicians, breeders, and rescue groups about the importance of early socialization and the special management some breeds require.

Selected Resources:American Humane Association,

www.americanhumane.org/site/PageServer?pagename=nr_fact_sheets_animal_dog_bite.

American Kennel Club, www.akc.org/clubs/rdod/index.cfm.

American Medical Veterinary Association A community approach to dog bite prevention. www.avma.org/pubhlth/dogbite/default.asp.

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Are Breed Specific Laws Effective?, www.aspca.org.

Breed Education not Discrimination (BEND), specializing in pit bull rescue, training, and education at [email protected].

Bully Breeds: They Are Different by Trish King, video available through www.tawzerdogvideos.com/VIDEO-Index.htm.

Coalition for Living Safely with Dogs, www.colovma.com.

Fatal Dog Attacks: The Stories Behind the Statistics by Karen Delise, www.fataldogattacks.com.

Pit Bulls on the Web, www.pitbullsontheweb.com/petbull/findpit.html.

Mary Lesli Zoller has her Master’s in Public Administration, completed paralegal training in civil litigation, and makes her living as a health policy analyst. She is an aspiring dog trainer and photographer. She lives in Richmond, VA with her Australian Shepherds and enjoys showing in conformation, participating in Caring Canines dog therapy program, teaching tricks, and learning herding, agility, freestyle and Rally O. She is a volunteer for Mini Aussie Rescue and Support, the Richmond Dog Obedience Club, and the SPCA. She is also a member of the APDT Legislative Affairs Committee. She can be reached at [email protected].

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reviewers’ corner Rating SystemThe APDT Chronicle of the Dog’s 0-4 Paws Book & Video Rating:

Great

Very Good

Good

FairContent: How well did the author cover the subject matter? Did the author pres-ent a fresh look at a topic or present new material? Was the content usable by the reader?Presentation: Was the book visually appealing in its layout? Did the author use helpful photographs, charts, or il-lustrations?Readability: Was the tone of the book appropriate? Was it well organized and edited for grammar, punctuation, and syntax?

PETiQuette: Solving Behavior Problems in Your Multi-Pet Household, Amy D. Shojai (M. Evans and Company, 2005, 304 pages, softcover, $15.95)

Reviewer: Pat Miller, CPDT, CDBC

Content:

Readability:

Presentation:

Audience: Pet owners seeking a resource for addressing multi-pet challenges.

Amy Shojai is a well-known name in the pet care and

training field—author of 19 nonfiction pet books and hundreds of articles and columns, and a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. Her experience shines through in this well-written, well-organized resource that addresses an important need in the pet-owning world. A significant percentage of pet owners own more than one pet. Most APDT members likely fall into the multi-pet category, as do many of our clients. Yet most of the dog training books on the market approach the training topic with the assumption that training is done one-on-one: one dog, one human, in the perfect low-distraction environment. Ideally it is, of course, even in a multi-pet household, but it’s rarely that simple. Reality says pet owners need lots of help when it comes to multipet management and

training. Shojai’s book makes the reality assumption—accepting that owners must work with and around multiple animal companions in a home —and emphasizes the importance of understanding the dynamics of interactions in order to maximize success in the multi-pet environment. Information is well-organized into six sections:•Understanding Competability – with a focus on how animals think and learn •The Multidog Household – Common Problems and Practical Solutions•The Multicat Household – Common Problems and Practical Solutions•The Dog-Cat Household – Common Problems and Practical Solutions•Common Multipet Frustrations – Pet Peeves.•Appendixes – including expert sources; resources for finding behavior consultants and trainers; activities for pets; and recommended reading PETiQuette includes a thorough index for easy reference, de rigueur for good dog training and behavior books these days. Items of special interest are included in shaded boxes throughout the text, and important concepts are pulled out in “paw” bullets in each chapter. The book is short on fancy graphics—no photos, and only minimal artwork, but it’s packed with excellent management and training information that hails from a pet-friendly, modern perspective. Shojai offers force-free training

and management tips, and makes appropriate use of both operant and classical approaches to dealing with inter-pet behaviors. I do have some dissonance moments with some of the information included in the book. Shojai identifies the prime socialization period as being from six to eight weeks —a much smaller window that is generally suggested (four to 14 or 16 weeks) and states that the “best” puppy classes are conducted all off-leash—while I suspect many of us find value in combining on- and off-leash times in puppy classes. She also falls into some old-fashioned thinking about dominance, with statements such as “dog social ranking follows a pretty rigid hierarchy,” while many behaviorists now feel canine social structure is much more fluid than once thought. Nevertheless, these flaws are minor in the face of the



overwhelmingly positive and well-presented information that fills the pages of this book. There probably won’t be many epiphany moments here for veteran dog trainers, however, PETiQuette is an excellent resource for clients who are looking for a modern, easy-to-read book on multi-pet management and training.

Pat Miller, CPDT, CDBC, is past president of the APDT, and owner of Peaceable Paws, LLC, located on an 80-acre campus in Fairplay, MD. In addition to Good Manners Classes, Miller offers training academies for trainers. Miller is Training Editor for The Whole Dog Journal (WDJ) and a regular contributor to WDJ, as well as Your Dog, Dog Fancy, Popular Dogs and Bark magazines. She has published two books: The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives, and a 5-booklet behavior series. She can be reached at [email protected].

Am I Safe: The Art & Science of Canine Behavior Assessments, Sarah Gorwitz-Kalnajs (Blue Dog Training & Behavior LLC, 2006, Part 1: 108 minutes, Part 2: 116 minutes, $60.00, www.bluedogtraining.com).

Reviewer: Valerie Pollard

Content:

Production:

Audience: All trainers who intend to be involved in rescue, also anyone interested in understanding more about canine body language and how to safely conduct assessment tests.

This is a set of two DVD’s which outline Ms. Gorwitz-

Kalnajs’ assessment techniques involving shelter and rescue dogs. Sarah Gorwitz-Kalnajs has extensive credentials and experience in dog behavior, both academically and hands-on experience. She is a clinical member of the IAABC, a CPDT, a professional member of the ABMA, and is on the Board of Cynology College. Sarah also founded the Wisconsin American Eskimo Dog Rescue, is the behavior consultant for Arf’s German Shepherd Rescue Inc. as well as a committee member of Arf’s Angel Fund. The DVD’s are divided into categories describing each assessment test individually, and consist of Sarah discussing and explaining each test and then showing video footage of various dogs being tested, while she continues to explain in voiceovers. The videos show many dogs of differing breeds and ages, and demonstrate clearly what she is discussing. The tests are extremely thorough and Sarah emphasizes throughout that one must be fair to each individual dog, and to realize

that you are not “condemning” the dog, you are rather making notes as you continue the testing so as to ultimately decide where this dog will best fit, what sort of family or environment will suit the dog. I really appreciated this aspect of her approach to rescue work. She is also careful to explain the reasons behind each test, how to set up a team to test the dogs (primary and secondary handlers), and how to safely position yourself to perform the tests. For example, she demonstrates how the primary and secondary handlers will continuously move to opposite sides of a dog in case a quick removal is necessary, and how important it is to keep the leash loose albeit correctly positioned. The tests range from the initial more simple exercises such as watching to see if the dog wants to engage at all with a seated handler to resource guarding and food bowl guarding issues as well as dog/dog interactions. Ms. Gorwitz-Kalnajs is an engaging speaker and appears very at ease and knowledgeable in the subject matter. Perhaps

Reviewers' Cornercontinued from previous page

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Presenting Your Slate of Dog-Friendly Candidates For the APDT Board:

These APDT members and well-known trainers demonstrate their commitment to "dog-friendly" training every day. If elected, they pledge to lead the APDT

and the dog training profession into a new era where it is never necessary to use pain to train a dog, and where it is understood that behavior and training problems can be

resolved with modern, reward-based training methods and responsible, compassionate, commonsense management. Join us in supporting

these dog-friendly candidates when you cast your vote.

Becky Schultz, CPDT - APDT member since 1998,

as Director of Training and Behavior for a large shelter, Becky sees daily the need for dog-friendly, gentle training for all dogs.

Colleen Pelar, CPDT - An APDT member since 1997,

Colleen is the training manager of All About Dogs, Inc. and the author of Living with Kids and Dogs . . . Without Losing Your Mind.

Pam Dennison, CDBC - An APDT member since 1997,

Pam is the owner of Positive Motivation Dog Training, and author of four positive training books, including How to Right a Dog Gone Wrong; A Roadmap For Rehabilitating Aggressive Dogs.

To learn more about these candidates please visit: www.trulydogfriendly.com

Standing proudly in support of these fine candidates are the following:

Jolanta Benal; Debbie Bickford, CTC; Ellen N. Brown; Michele Carra; Dede Crough; Barbara Davis, CPDT, CDBC; Carolyn DeFiore, CDBC; Frances Dauster, CPDT; Eric Goebelbecker; Don Hanson, BFRP, CDBC, CPDT; Sabine Hentrich; Bonnie Hess, ABCDT; Jo Jacques, CPCT; Tom Kirshbaum, CTC; Darla Lacey,CPDT; Suezanne M. Law;

Kim Lutz; Debby McMullen; Karen Miller, CPDT; Pat Miller,CPDT, CDBC; Nannette Morgan; September Morn; Sarah Petefish, CPDT; Leah Roberts; Janet Skinner, CPDT; Paula Zukoff, CPDT

Beverly Hebert;

Laura Van Dyne, CPDT;



the video might have been a little more “lively” if there were more demonstrations with “live” dogs rather than all on video, but it was fine as presented. The DVDs appear to be perhaps Day Two of a seminar and much of the terminology seems to have been discussed the day before, therefore it would probably be helpful to obtain her first DVDs, The Language of Dogs, to be a little more familiar with what some of these labels mean, such as “tapping out,” and “height seeking.” Still, Am I Safe can stand alone as very well done and informative. The DVD’s themselves are well-produced, with good sound, images and visual effects. Valerie Pollard has been training dogs professionally since 1979, and has always been interested in understanding the psychology and behavior of dogs. She specializes in working with owners on behavioral concerns, particularly aggression and anxiety issues. Valerie is a charter member of APDT, a clinical member of the IADBC, and is endorsed by NADOI. She competes with her own dog in the sport of Schutzhund. Valerie lives in Southern California with her family, including kids, horses, and dogs.

IN FOCUS: Developing a Working Relationship with Your Performance Dog, Deborah Jones, PhD and Judy Keller (Clean Run Productions, LLC, MA, 2004, 102 pages, $14.95, www.cleanrun.com)

Reviewer: Terry Long, CPDT

Content:

Presentation:

Readability:

Audience: Performance dog handlers and the average pet owner.

Former APDT Board member Deb Jones and co-author

Judy Keller have written a highly readable book targeted at agility handlers that is also a wonderful primer for pet dog owners looking to improve their relationships with their canine companions. This handy, attractive 5x7” paperback is concisely written, graphically appealing, and chock-full of practical information that is sure to educate the neophyte about learning theory and how to apply it to enhancing the performance of their dog. Although intended primarily for agility handlers, this book easily translates to other dog sports, as well as pet dog owners. FOCUS stands for Fun,

Obedience, and Consistency Lead to Unbelievable Success. The book was inspired by Keller’s high-drive Sheltie who was out of control in the ring, as well as Jones’ soft, easily stressed Papillon, Copper. The goal of the book is to address the mental challenges agility dogs face, and provide a systematic training approach to successfully produce a confident dog willing to take direction from the handler. It scores high on both counts. The book is well organized into seven chapters, and typical of other Clean Run publications, well edited and proofed. The first two chapters, “What is FOCUS” and “How to Read Your Dog,” introduce the reader to the concepts of handler, environmental, and internal focus, and how these affect a dog’s performance, or lack thereof. The importance of understanding each dog’s personality is stressed, and tips are provided about how to assess whether a dog is “not having enough fun” or is “having too much fun,” the two main categories of dogs addressed in the book. Once the reader has identified which category applies to their dog, they are instructed how to use

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the book to their best benefit and are provided some general dos and don’ts for their type of dog. The third chapter, “Foundation FOCUS,” is one of the best in the book. If you are looking for succinct information on learning theory, you’ll find it in these 11 pages. Deftly covered are learning to learn, clicker training guidelines, how to be a splitter versus a lumper, how to get behaviors (shaping, targeting, luring), and more. “Training Focus” pages used throughout the book to highlight training concepts, include “Consequences, Consequences,” a one-page description of operant conditioning, i.e., R+, P+, R-, P-, and extinction, as well as “On the Mark,” describing the use of a behavioral marker. “Step One: Fun” is the chapter devoted to dogs who need confidence building. The authors discuss how stress affects learning, the role of fun and play in learning, and how to effectively use food and other resources as rewards. Specific tricks and games are described and there is a nice section on the role of classical conditioning in overcoming bad experiences, e.g., teeter phobia. A section that is more appropriate to the chapter “How to Read Your Dog” explores intrinsic and extrinsic motivation and how to use these principles to assess your dog’s motivations and, thus, training approach. “Step Two: Obedience” debunks the myth that requiring control in performance dogs results in loss of drive. The authors stress that the use of positive reinforcement techniques makes obedience

exercises enjoyable. Included are “control” exercises such as Sit, Down, Hand Targeting, Attention, Recall, Close and Side, Wait and Stay. “Self-control” exercises cover Doggie Zen and Leave It. “Moving control” describes controlled walking, various crosses (front, rear, and blind), and “agility heeling.” Also in this chapter are five excellent Training Focus pages including “How to Build a Behavior,” “Adding Cues and Signals,” Shifting Criteria,” Varying the Reinforcement Schedule,” and “Boosting Speed,” (latency). The chapter entitled “Consis-tency” focuses on the importance of maintaining criterion in all situations, how to deal with regression (spontaneous recovery), assess trial readiness and goals, and establish continuing training opportunities. So impressed was I with this little book that I decided to make it required reading for my newest beginners’ agility class. The hardest part will be breaking this book into assigned readings. I want my students to read it all … now.

Terry Long, CPDT, is a professional writer, dog trainer, and behavior counselor in Long Beach, CA. She is the former managing editor of The APDT Chronicle of the Dog, editor of the "On Behavior" column, and authors Dog World’s “About Agility” column. She can be reached through her web site at www.dogpact.com. How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves, Sophia Yin, DVM (T.F.H. Publications, Inc., NJ, 2004, 244 pages, $22.95)

Reviewer: Terry Long, CPDT

Content:

Readability:

Presentation:

Audience: Pet dog owners.

Perhaps it was the testimonial blurb written by Bob Bailey

that drew me to this appealing and accessible book. And then, there’s the Forward by the author that recounts her experience at a Bailey & Bailey operant conditioning workshop. After all, three chicken camps later, I still can’t get enough of the science and mechanics behind what we, as trainers, do for a living. But it’s probably the title that says it best for this book: people must change their behavior if they want their dog’s behavior to change. Sophia Yin does an admirable job of championing the dog’s perspective in this attractive hard-bound book. How to Behave combines learning theory and practical training tips in five sections: 1) Understanding Dogs; 2) The Science of Learning; 3) Five-minute Guide to Basic Good Dog Behavior; and 4) Five-minute Guide to Solving Common Canine Problems. An added bonus are the appendices, which include “Advanced Chicken Training Camp,” an interview with Bob and Marian Bailey, an article by Keller and Marin Breland from American Psychologist (1951) and “The Misbehavior of Organisms” (1961). There is even a glossary and an index.




Terry Long, CPDT, is a professional writer, dog trainer, and behavior counselor in Long Beach, CA. She is the former managing editor of The APDT Chronicle of the Dog, editor of the "On Behavior" column, and authors Dog World’s “About Agility” column. She can be reached through her Web site at www.dogpact.com.

The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Positive Dog Training, Pamela Dennison (Alpha, a member of Penguin Groups, Inc., 2003, 320 pages, $14.95)

Reviewer: Susan Smith, CPDT, CDBC

Content:

Presentation:

Readability:

Audience: Pet dog owners.

The general layout of this book is good. The beginning of

each chapter has a bulleted list of concepts covered, and the end has another list of concepts which the reader should now understand. There are sidebars of information throughout the book; however, they lack continuity and accuracy. There were many continuity problems throughout this book. Dennison begins to address an issue in some detail, but then drops it and refers the reader to another chapter. She also mentions situations or concepts that don’t have any apparent connection to the current topic. She has an entire chapter devoted to punishment, yet doesn’t define punishment until the following chapter. She warns about potential aggression throughout

If I could have my clients read only one chapter of this book, it would be Section 1, Chapter 2, “Dog-Dog Social Skills.” It discusses socialization and canine greeting behaviors (inappropriate ones and socially acceptable ones). Chapters that would be of interest to trainers studying for the CPDT exam include all those of Section 2, “The Science of Learning,” which covers operant and classical conditioning and a refreshingly objective chapter on the use of aversives. Drawing from her experience as a professor, she has also included several question and answer quizzes for the reader to test his knowledge. The author is good at taking complex concepts and putting them into lay terms. Page 105 introduces the clicker and a verbal marker and quickly outlines how to teach and use a marker. Interestingly, after doing so, she does not describe how to use the clicker or other marker in any of the training exercises outlined later in the book. Practical applications of common behaviors (e.g., sit, down/stay) are provided throughout and each exercise described is broken down, adding difficulty a little at a time. The “Problem Solving” section is succinct and accessible and addresses a variety of issues such as chewing, nipping, separation anxiety, and aggression. Some of the information, however, ends up being too superficial, perhaps in an attempt to keep it brief and bite-sized. For example, the chapter,“Dominance Aggression: A Struggle for Status,” lists management, control of

resources, and using a dragline to address this complex syndrome. In Chapter 31, “Toys and Treat Possessiveness,” one exercise included the exchange of a toy for a treat, including taking the toy while the dog eats the treat. I’m sure I’m not the only trainer who has seen people bitten in this exact situation. In neither chapter did the author remind the reader that professional assistance is recommended. Where the book does suggest professional help for aggression, the author recommends finding a veterinary behaviorist or a certified applied animal behaviorist. Surprising, too, were several typos and proofing oversights; however, I am repeatedly told that publishing houses no longer support the staff for such tasks. Substantive (content) editing, however, might have caused the author to reconsider why chaining would not be part of a dog’s inappropriate greeting behavior (page 97) or part of a recall problem (page 98) and why adding distractions to the recall is called “shaping” instead of “criterion” (page 97). She may also have reconsidered the instruction to use a hand and verbal signal simultaneously when adding the Stay cue (page 156) even though she later accurately defines overshadowing (page 168). These criticisms are probably of more interest to professional trainers than to the average pet owner. How to Behave is still a book I would recommend to pet owners who would benefit from seeing things from the dog’s perspective.





principles, repetition of common R+ myths, and specious comments. Dennison, in her zeal to promote science-based, positive training, has played fast and loose with the science, the terminology and the principles.

Susan Smith is the owner of Raising Canine. She has earned her CPDT, CDBC and CTC designations and was APDT Member of the Year in 2004. She provides educational telecourses and products, as well as marketing products for animal consultants.

Be A Tree Teacher Kit, Doggone Safe (www.doggonesafe.com, $85.00)

Reviewer: Nikki Myers, CPDT

Content:

Presentation:

Audience: Teachers and dog trainers.

The Doggone Safe Be a Tree Teacher Kit provides all the

materials that are necessary to present the Be A Tree program. This scripted program takes children through a selection of pictures to illustrate things they can do to prevent dog bites. The first discussion is about the tools that children already possess; they only need to know how to use them. The “Toolbox” contains a mouth to ask permission, a fist to present to a dog for sniffing, eyes to look for danger signs, feet to walk away, and the Be A Tree stance (standing still with arms folded in, head and eyes down). There are large posters illustrating each of these tools so that younger children

with limited vocabularies can still be prompted to answer questions or can use the pictures to help communicate their answers. There are also photos of dogs showing signs of stress. They are large, good-quality, close-up pictures that capture some of the more obvious signs of stress dogs give us. Included in the kit are large photos of four different dogs. For each dog there is a picture of it happy and relaxed and a picture of it anxious and tensed. This is a great way to illustrate that a “friendly” dog can have moments when it is not safe to approach. After learning about the tools we all possess and the difference between a happy dog and “snarly” dog, the presentation moves onto games using the “spinner” card. The four positions the spinning arrow could land on are: the “Snarly” Dog, Happy Dog, Tools, and Simon Says. This game allows for more activity from every member of the audience. On the Snarly Dog, the audience assumes the Be A Tree position. On the Happy Dog, the audience pantomimes a happy dog with a relaxed face. On the Tools section there are role play cards to guide a group of children through everyday dog encounters and the appropriate tools to use in them. The Simon Says section starts a game where children are asked to mime appropriate behaviors around dogs, i.e. giving treats, asking permission to pet, etc. The last on the list is a behavior to avoid around dogs, i.e. running away screaming and taking items away from dogs. The spinner

the book, yet doesn’t even devote a chapter to the topic. Although it is sometimes difficult to know just how much to “dumb down” terminology when addressing owners, there is no excuse for putting out wrong information. Using the word “reward” in place of “reinforcement” is acceptable; misstating the Laws of Learning is not, and saying that punishment (not even P+ - just punishment) will lead to anxiety, aggression, and learned helplessness is not! This book is rife with statements such as this. Dennison has fallen into the mode of thinking which so many clicker trainers seem to embrace. Statements such as “teaches the dog to think” and “behaviors learned through force tend to fall apart when the dog is under stress” are simply wrong. Dogs know how to think; “clicker trainers” teach them to freely offer varied behaviors; and, once a behavior is learned, it’s learned—probably what she should say is that the dog being trained through positive methods is learning a different behavior than the one being trained through forceful methods. Authors owe it to their audience to examine these statements before blindly repeating and propagating them. I would not recommend this book. In my opinion, there are much better books for owners on the market—for instance Pat Miller’s The Power of Positive Dog Training, or any of Dr. Ian Dunbar’s books. This book is chock full of opinions presented as fact, misstated and inaccurate



which undoubtedly there would be, the teacher would be without any other resources at the time of the presentation. There really is no substitute for the experience of someone who works with dogs on a daily basis. This lack is all that keeps the Be A Tree program from being perfect. The Be A Tree Teacher Kit outlines a very useful program. It is compact, which is a plus for storage in classrooms, or dog trainers’ vehicles, that are usually already short on space. The pictures are clear and large enough to be seen in a group setting and graphic enough to keep children interested. The program is easily adaptable to varying ages and the suggested follow up activities are a good guideline and stepping stone to more creative ideas for even more follow up lessons. The accompanying CD and scripts

game also allows for variety for the presenter to mix up the order the role play and Simon Says games. With a more advanced group of children, you could encourage groups to come up with role playing episodes to present to class or get them to list appropriate behaviors around dogs to come up with Simon Says games to play with their class. I can see the potential to adapt this presentation to various age groups by collecting ideas from educators for activities appropriate for differing grade levels. The scripted program is a great idea for someone who has never presented to a group of children. A more experienced presenter may use the script as a guideline for the subject matter but can make the vocabulary appropriate to the age group or learning level. Accompanying the entire kit is a CD with a recorded presentation to play on Windows Media Player. You can follow along with the scripted presentation and practice with the CD. In the hands of a teacher with no knowledge about dogs, this kit gives some good basic information. But if questions are prompted by this information,


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are very helpful for speakers that may not be familiar with how to present this information to a young audience.

Nikki Myers, CPDT, is a full-time dog trainer in Long Beach, CA and part-time kid trainer in the Norwalk-La Mirada Unified School District in Norwalk, CA. She can be contacted at [email protected].

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Stops Pulling

Doesn’t Ride Up In the Eyes

Instinctively Teaches Dogs to Walk Politely

The Canny™ Collar

“ I am a total Canny Collar convert! The design is so simple and effective and the dogs respond beautifully.”

Julie Yamane, Canine Learning Center, Fort Collins, Colorado

The Canny Company, LTDtel: 612.296.2867

Videos: www.cannyco.comemail: [email protected]

Comevisit us at the APDT

Conference Expo HallBooth 25!!

Controls from Behind the Head

Kind, Safe and Effective

lure/reward training i - mydoghasclass.com · jul/aug 2006 the apdt chronicle of the dog 5 training...

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