Lace Crochet

What it is…..…and how to do it

What can you use lace crochet for?Traditionally, crocheted

lace has been used for:• edgings• insertions• tablecloths• bed linens• doilies• baby things

but….those things have gone out of

fashion, for the most part

What else can you use lace crochet for?

Modern applications can be really stunning!

• Sweaters and tops• Bikinis and sunwear• Dresses and handbags• Beaded capelets and

shawls for formal occasions

Clockwise, from top left: Yves St. Laurent sleeved cape, Fall 2007; Chanel python handbag, 2008; black bikini with boyshorts and white bikini top, both by Hawaiian Delights Crochet; Chanel crocheted black dress, 2006; Dior purple crocheted top, Summer 2007; ivory monokini, Mybikinibrazil; ivory one-shoulder dress, BMWear, 2008.

Variations on a Theme

There are different types of crochet lace: french, filet and Irish crochet are the most common.

Many modern patterns don’t specify what kind of crochet they are.

Following is an exploration of some of the different types of crochet and their identifying characteristics...

Filet CrochetFilet crochet is built in

blocks. Patterns can tend to look a lot like they’re for cross-stitch embroidery and the two can be virtually interchangeable, right down to using multiple colors.

In a filet pattern, a filled-in space is known as a “block” and those that are empty are simply referred to as “spaces.” Designs are generally 2-dimensional.

“Main Line”tablecloth by Royal Society Hand Crochet, Book No. 1, copyright 1943

Crochet, n.o.s.

Regular crochet (sometimes called “french” crochet in older books) is the least structural of the curvilinear patterns. Common designs include shells, pineapples, fans and loops, with or without picots, bobbles or popcorn stitches. It is usually only 2-dimensional.

Most crochet designs we see today are of this type.

Lily Mills Company, Book #700-E, c.1940

Hairpin LaceHairpin lace is normally used for edgings, but can be connected to make entire pieces of fabric. It is most readily identifiable by its wide, airy construction that includes a firm chain in the middle of the piece for structural integrity.

This type of lace requires the use of a lace staple, known also as a loom, frame or fork. It can be made of any weight cord.Picture courtesy of freepatterns.com; design by staff of Old Time

Crochet magazine

It reached its heyday during the Victorian era but is currently undergoing a resurgence as designers rediscover its ultra-feminine appearance.

Irish Crochet

Irish crochet is more structural than other crochet styles, incorporating figures in 3 dimensions instead of merely 2. Most figures are heavily outlined and worked over a padding cord, making them stand out against the background.

It is readily identifiable because of its distinct curvilinear figures and the picoted netting connecting them.

Picture from Magic Crochet, August 2001, Number 133, page 14

Venetian CrochetThe most structural,

architectural style of crochet -- and the one least found in modern patterns -- is Venetian crochet. Its 3-dimensional, realistic figures can stand alone without a backing or netting and closely resemble reticella embroidery, from which the technique is descended.

It was quite popular around the turn of the 20th century but unfortunately has fallen into disuse. Anna Wuerfel Brown, whose work was published between 1900 - 1920, was a master of this technique. A cover featuring Venetian edging from one of her books can be seen above.

Picture courtesy of Iva Rose Vintage Reproductions (ivarose.com)

Size matters…hooksLace is made with steel needles

(also called hooks), and they’re quite small. The higher the number, the smaller the hook. The most common sizes are 2, 4 and 7.

“Regular” hooks, the ones you find most often, are aluminum or plastic and usually sized alphabetically. The largest needle is a “Q” while a “B” is the smallest. Afghans, for example, are usually made with size “H” or “J” needles.

This picture shows the difference between steel

lace needles and “regular” crochet hooks

Lace Hooks -- from right,

smallest to largest

“Regular” hooks--from right,

smallest to largest

How Do I Know Which Size Hook To Use?One of lace crochet’s idiosyncracies is that while most

patterns will tell you which size thread to use, it doesn’t always tell you which size needle!

The key is,use:• the finest, smallest size hook available• that won’t split the thread.

So, for example, using a size 14 hook with bedspread cotton is a bad idea, while using some of the larger sizes (2, 4 or 7) will give you better results with a lot less frustration.

This can involve some trial and error. Make a gauge swatch if you’re unsure.

Size matters…cordsLace is usually made with

cotton, silk or linen thread. The higher the number, the smaller the cord. The most common sizes are 5 (perle), 10 (bedspread) and 30 (edging). The picture at right shows some examples of typical lace cottons.

Most other crochet patterns, like afghans and sweaters, are made with much bulkier yarns -- often the same size one would use for knitting.

Points to Ponder…Crochet CordHere are some things to look for when you’re buying your first

cord. Though this is written with bedspread cotton in mind, the rules apply equally to other fibers.

• Look for a thread that is very smooth and evenly twisted. Snags, “bobbles” or other rough spots will end in frustration as your hook catches the irregularities and distorts the pattern.

• “Excellent” doesn’t always mean “expensive.” You can find terrific, smooth-as-silk cotton readily and the small price variance between the cheap stuff and something more even will make a world of difference in your finished product.

• Contrary to popular wisdom, no amount of starch will fix lace made from poorly-made thread. If anything, it will make the appearance worse.

Lace is a labor of love -- buy your materials accordingly

A Note About PatternsTry an edging pattern first, in bedspread cotton (#10).• You’ll need to learn basic stitches• The larger thread allows you to see what you’re doing and

it’s readily available in a wide range of colors• Edgings contain the most commonly-used “fabric”

patterns for garments• The basics of increases and decreases are easier to study• Gauge is critical to garment construction; edgings can help

you learn how you crochet. Tight? Loose? Somewhere in between?

• It’s a small project. If you find this is not for you, you haven’t committed yourself to a project that is Not Your Friend.

Garments are truly lovely, but you may find yourself frustrated by having to master sizing, gauge, construction and other fairly advanced techniques all at once.

Filet PatternsFilet crochet is probably easiest to learn, because:• it’s built in blocks• it involves very few stitches to learn (usually only

chains, single crochet and double crochet)• it’s easy to count and see• If you’ve got monochromatic cross-stitch patterns

lying around the house, they can be converted to filet without much fuss

Filet is usually worked from edge-to-edge along the width of the piece. The wider the piece, the more blocks you’ll make.

It can, however, look clunky when finished, especially if your work is in perle or bedspread cotton. Filet usually looks its best when done in smaller cord (#30 or smaller).

Regular (“French”) Patterns“French,” or regular, crochet can be worked either way --

from side-to-side or along the length of the piece.• It may involve more stitches to learn, but gives you a

better idea how traditional lace is “built” • Lets you explore different kinds of lace applications,

including beadings (where ribbon is threaded through the lace when you’re done) and medallions

• Lends itself to construction in bedspread cotton while not looking clunky when you’re finished

• It involves a wider range of techniques for finishing -- and beginning! Some patterns begin by “salding,” which means that your foundation -- chain -- row is hooked directly onto the piece. Salding eliminates the need to sew your lace onto your project.

Materials You’ll Need• Steel crochet hook, size 7• Crochet cotton, size 10 (a.k.a. “bedspread

cotton”), 1 ball• Pattern of your choice (really -- try an edging

pattern first)All of these can be obtained at any craft store or

piece goods department for less than $10 -- and free patterns can be found all over the web!

How do I start?• Make a pretzel-shaped

loop in your fingers• Use your needle to

pick up the “leg” that’s underneath the pretzel

• Pull taut, but not tight!

Building a chain• From the first knot

you just made, reach out and hook the thread coming off the ball

• Pull it through your first knot

• Repeat for desired length

1 2

3 4

Common StitchesThis is a scan of a page from an old pattern book of mine published in 1937…..nothing has changed! This is still the way it’s done.

Does crochet have a “right” side and a “wrong” side?Yes, but it’s more apparent in some patterns than in

others. Often a matter of personal preference, where in your loops you start the next row can make a difference.

• Hooking into the back (a.k.a, back ridge) of a loop will produce a braided effect on the right side of the work and produces a very smooth edge

• Hooking into the top of a loop (as is most often found in filet crochet) will make a very smooth surface, but not necessarily a terrific edge

Some patterns specify which part of the loop you should hook into. Feel free to use either method for patterns that don’t.

Crochet-to-English Translation Guide

c or ch Chain (“c” can also mean “cord”)h dc or hdc Half double crochetsc Single crochetdc Double crochett, tr, or tc Treble (triple) crochetdt, dtr or dtc Double treble crochettt, ttr, or tr tr Triple treble crochetsl st Slip stitchpc or pc st Popcorn stitchbbl or mb Bobble or “make bobble”p Picotmp Make picotbl Blocksp Spacernd Roundcl or mc Cluster or “make cluster”ks Knot stitch

Going ‘Round the Bend

At some point, everyone has to turn a corner.

Every crochet stitch has its equivalent number of chain stitches, and your pattern should direct you as to how many chain stitches you’ll need to “back up.”

For example: a pattern might read something like, “Crochet ch slightly longer than desired length, turn. 1st row: SC in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. 2nd row: Ch 5 (to count as dc and ch-2)….”

I find it easier to learn from older patterns printed in text rather than symbols because they are so explicit. Just follow the instructions! It’s easier than you think.

Turning Chains

“Turning Chains” are the back-up stitches needed at the beginning of every row to make the height of your next stitch.

• Slip stitches add no height, and therefore don’t need a turning chain

• A single crochet is the same height as one chain. When you’re asked to turn a corner in sc, remember that the first stitch in sc is for height only -- it does not count as the first sc in the row.

• For all other taller stitches, the turning chain does count as the first stitch in the row or round.

See the chart on the next page….

Turning Chain Chart

Stitch

# TurningChains

RequiredSlip stitch 0

Single crochet (sc) 1

Half double crochet (hdc) 2

Double crochet (dc) 3

Treble crochet 4…..and so on……

The End

All good things must come to an end, and so it is with patterns.

Here’s how to fasten off without having your work unravel or leave loose ends:

Method 1:• After completing, make an extra chain stitch. Clip thread,

leaving an extra inch or so, and draw it in and out of the back of the work where it won’t show. Keep drawing it in and out of the work until it’s used up.

Method 2:• Again, make an extra chain stitch as above but leave a

longer end. Thread a sewing needle with the tail and sew it securely to the back of your work.

Suggested Links• Antiquepatternlibrary.org

Wonderful site with scans of all kinds of antique pattern books now in the public domain. Sharing is welcome, but these patterns are not for sale.

• Stitchdiva.comThe Stitch Diva is a shop with excellent tutorials. Of particular note is her tutorial on hairpin lace.

• Vintagetextile.comThis is actually a shop for vintage clothing and accessories. Excellent photo gallery of vintage laces in context.

• Ivarose.comReproductions of all kinds of antique pattern books for sale. Asmus Bradley, Corticelli, Mary Card, Adeline Cordet, Emma Farnes, Anna W. Brown and Dorothy Bradford books can all be found here.